EvenGinsainomawasnotParadiseafterdark，andIwasactuallydriventobedearlybythenumberofmosquitoes。Itoisinanexcellenthumouronthistour。Likeme，helikesthefreedomoftheHokkaido。Heismuchmorepoliteandagreeablealso，andveryproudoftheGovernor’sshomon，withwhichheswaggersintohotelsandTransportOffices。Inevergetonsowellaswhenhearrangesforme。Saturdaywasgreyandlifeless，andtherideofsevenmilesherealongasandyroadthroughmonotonousforestandswamp，withthevolcanoononesideandlowwoodedhillsontheother，waswearisomeandfatiguing。Isawfivelargesnakesallinaheap，andanumbermoretwistingthroughthegrass。Therearenovillages，butseveralverypoortea-houses，andontheothersideoftheroadlongshedswithtroughshollowedlikecanoesoutofthetrunksoftrees，containinghorsefood。Herenobodywalks，andthemenrideataquickrun，sittingonthetopsoftheirpack-saddleswiththeirlegscrossedabovetheirhorses’necks，andwearinglargehatslikecoal-scuttlebonnets。Thehorsesareinfestedwithticks，hundredsupononeanimalsometimes，andoccasionallytheybecomesomadfromtheirritationthattheythrowthemselvessuddenlyontheground，androlloverloadandrider。Isawthisdonetwice。Theticksoftentransferthemselvestotheriders。
Moriisalarge，ramshacklevillage，nearthesouthernpointofVolcanoBay——awild，dreary-lookingplaceonasandyshore，withanumberofjoroyasanddisreputablecharacters。Severaloftheyadoyasarenotrespectable，butIratherlikethisone，andithasaveryfineviewofthevolcano，whichformsonepointofthebay。
Morihasnoanchorage，thoughithasanunfinishedpier345feetlong。Thesteamferryacrossthemouthofthebayishere，andthereisaverydifficultbridle-trackrunningfornearly100milesroundthebaybesides，andaroadintotheinterior。Butitisaforlorn，decayedplace。Lastnighttheinnwasverynoisy，assometravellersinthenextroomtominehiredgeishas，whoplayed，sang，anddancedtilltwointhemorning，andthewholepartyimbibedsakefreely。Inthiscomparativelynorthernlatitudethesummerisalreadywaning。TheseedsoftheblossomswhichwereintheirglorywhenIarrivedareripe，andhereandthereatingeofyellowonahillside，orascarletsprayofmaple，heraldsthegloriesandthecoolnessofautumn。
Aloudyellof“steamer，“coupledwiththeinformationthat“shecouldnotwaitoneminute，“brokeinupongoandeverythingelse，andinabroilingsunwehurrieddowntothepier，andwithaheapofJapanese，whofilledtwoscows，wereputonboardasteamernotbiggerthanalargedeckedsteamlaunch，wherethenativeswereallpackedintoacoveredhole，andIwasconductedwithmuchceremonytotheforecastle，aplaceatthebow5feetsquare，fullofcoilsofrope，shutin，andlefttosolitudeanddignity，andthestareofeighteyes，whichperseveringlygloweredthroughthewindows！
Thesteamerhadbeenkeptwaitingformeontheothersidefortwodays，totheinfinitedisgustoftwoforeigners，whowishedtoreturntoHakodate，andtomine。
Itwasasplendidday，withfoamcrestsonthewonderfullybluewater，andtheredashesofthevolcano，whichformsthesouthpointofthebay，glowedinthesunlight。Thiswretchedsteamer，whoseboilersaresooften“sick“thatshecanneverbereliedupon，istheonlymeansofreachingthenewcapitalwithouttakingamostdifficultandcircuitousroute。Tocontinuethepierandputacapablegoodsteamerontheferrywouldbeausefulexpenditureofmoney。Thebreezewasstrongandinourfavour，butevenwiththisittookussixwearyhourstosteamtwenty-fivemiles，anditwaseightatnightbeforewereachedthebeautifulandalmostland-lockedbayofMororan，withsteep，woodedsides，anddeepwaterclosetotheshore，deepenoughfortheforeignshipsofwarwhichoccasionallyanchorthere，muchtothedetrimentofthetown。Wegotoffinover-crowdedsampans，andseveralpeoplefellintothewater，muchtotheirownamusement。Theservantsfromthedifferentyadoyasgodowntothejettyto“tout“
forguestswithlargepaperlanterns，andtheeffectofthese，oneaboveanother，wavingandundulating，withtheirsoftcolouredlight，wasasbewitchingasthereflectionofthestarsinthemotionlesswater。Mororanisasmalltownverypicturesquelysituatedonthesteepshoreofamostlovelybay，withanotherheight，richlywooded，aboveit，withshrinesapproachedbyflightsofstonestairs，andbehindthishillthereisthefirstAinovillagealongthiscoast。
Thelong，irregularstreetisslightlypicturesque，butIwasimpressedbothwiththeunusualsightofloafersandwiththedissolutelookoftheplace，arisingfromthenumberofjoroyas，andfromthenumberofyadoyasthatarealsohauntsofthevicious。
Icouldonlygetaverysmallroominaverypooranddirtyinn，buttherewerenomosquitoes，andIgotagoodmealoffish。OnsendingtoorderhorsesIfoundthateverythingwasarrangedformyjourney。TheGovernorsenthiscardearly，toknowiftherewereanythingIshouldliketoseeordo，but，asthemorningwasgreyandthreatening，Iwishedtopushon，andat9。30Iwasinthekurumaattheinndoor。Icallitthekurumabecauseitistheonlyone，andiskeptbytheGovernmentfortheconveyanceofhospitalpatients。Isatthereuncomfortablyandpatientlyforhalfanhour，myonlyamusementbeingtheflirtationsofItowithaveryprettygirl。Loiterersassembled，butnoonecametodrawthevehicle，andbydegreesthedismaltruthleakedoutthatthethreecoolieswhohadbeenimpressedfortheoccasionhadallabsconded，andthatfourpolicemenwereinsearchofthem。Iwalkedoninadawdlingwayupthesteephillwhichleadsfromthetown，metMr。
Akboshi，apleasantyoungJapanesesurveyor，whospokeEnglishandstigmatisedMororanas“theworstplaceinYezo；“and，afterfumingfortwohoursatthewasteoftime，wasovertakenbyItowiththehorses，inaboilingrage。“They’retheworstandwickedestcooliesinallJapan，“hestammered；“twomoreranaway，andnowthreearecoming，andhavegotpaidforfour，andthefirstthreewhoranawaygotpaid，andtheExpressman’ssoashamedforaforeigner，andtheGovernor’sinafuriousrage。“
Exceptforthelossoftimeitmadenodifferencetome，butwhenthekurumadidcomeuptherunnerswerethreesuchruffianly-
lookingmen，andweredressedsowildlyinbarkcloth，that，insendingItoontwelvemilestosecurerelays，Isentmymoneyalongwithhim。Thesemen，thoughtherewerethreeinsteadoftwo，neverwentoutofawalk，and，asifonpurpose，tookthevehicleovereverystoneandintoeveryrut，andkeptupasavagechorusof“haes-ha，haes-hora“thewholetime，asiftheywerepullingstone-
carts。TherearereallynorunnersoutofHakodate，andthemendon’tknowhowtopull，andhatedoingit。
MororanBayistrulybeautifulfromthetopoftheascent。ThecoastsceneryofJapangenerallyistheloveliestIhaveeverseen，exceptthatofaportionofwindwardHawaii，andthisyieldsinbeautytonone。Theirregulargreytown，withagreytempleontheheightabove，stragglesroundthelittlebayonasteep，woodedterrace；hills，denselywooded，andwithaperfectentanglementoflarge-leavedtrailers，descendabruptlytothewater’sedge；thefestoonsofthevinesaremirroredinthestillwaters；andabovethedarkforest，andbeyondthegleamingsea，risesthered，peakedtopofthevolcano。Thentheroaddipsabruptlytosandyswellings，risingintoboldheadlandshereandthere；andforthefirsttimeIsawthesurgeof5000milesofunbrokenoceanbreakupontheshore。GlimpsesofthePacific，anuncultivated，swampylevelquiteuninhabited，anddistanthillsmainlycoveredwithforest，madeupthelandscapetillIreachedHorobets，amixedJapaneseandAinovillagebuiltuponthesandnearthesea。
InthesemixedvillagestheAinosarecompelledtoliveatarespectfuldistancefromtheJapanese，andfrequentlyout-numberthem，asatHorobets，wherethereareforty-sevenAinoandonlyeighteenJapanesehouses。TheAinovillagelookslargerthanitreallyis，becausenearlyeveryhousehasakura，raisedsixfeetfromthegroundbywoodenstilts。WhenIambetteracquaintedwiththehousesIshalldescribethem；atpresentIwillonlysaythattheydonotresembletheJapanesehousessomuchasthePolynesian，astheyaremadeofreedsveryneatlytieduponawoodenframework。
Theyhavesmallwindows，androofsofaverygreatheight，andsteeppitch，withthethatchinaseriesofveryneatfrills，andtheridgepolescoveredwithreeds，andornamented。ThecoastAinosarenearlyallengagedinfishing，butatthisseasonthemenhuntdeerintheforests。Onthiscoastthereareseveralnamescompoundedwithbetsorpets，theAinoforariver，suchasHorobets，Yubets，Mombets，etc。
IfoundthatItohadbeenengagedforawholehourinaviolentaltercation，whichwascausedbytheTransportAgentrefusingtosupplyrunnersforthekuruma，sayingthatnooneinHorobetswoulddrawone，butonmyproducingtheshomonIwasatoncestartedonmyjourneyofsixteenmileswiththreeJapaneselads，ItoridingontoShiraoitogetmyroomready。IthinkthattheTransportOfficesinYezoareinGovernmenthands。InafewminutesthreeAinosranoutofahouse，tookthekuruma，andwentthewholestagewithoutstopping。Theytookaboyandthreesaddledhorsesalongwiththemtobringthemback，androdeandhauledalternately，twoyouthsalwaysattachedtotheshafts，andamanpushingbehind。
Theywereverykind，andsocourteous，afteranewfashion，thatI
quiteforgotthatIwasaloneamongsavages。Theladswereyoungandbeardless，theirlipswerethick，andtheirmouthsverywide，andIthoughtthattheyapproachedmorenearlytotheEskimotypethantoanyother。Theyhadmassesofsoftblackhairfallingoneachsideoftheirfaces。TheadultmanwasnotapureAino。Hisdarkhairwasnotverythick，andbothitandhisbeardhadanoccasionalauburngleam。IthinkIneversawafacemorecompletelybeautifulinfeaturesandexpression，withalofty，sad，far-off，gentle，intellectuallook，ratherthatofSirNoelPaton’s“Christ“thanofasavage。Hismannerwasmostgraceful，andhespokebothAinoandJapaneseinthelowmusicaltonewhichIfindisacharacteristicofAinospeech。TheseAinosnevertookofftheirclothes，butmerelyletthemfallfromoneorbothshoulderswhenitwasverywarm。
TheroadfromHorobetstoShiraoiisverysolitary，withnotmorethanfourorfivehousesthewholeway。Itisbroadandstraight，exceptwhenitascendshillsorturnsinlandtocrossrivers，andiscarriedacrossabroadswampylevel，coveredwithtallwildflowers，whichextendsfromthehighbeachthrownupbytheseafortwomilesinland，wherethereisaloftywallofwoodedrock，andbeyondthistheforest-coveredmountainsoftheinterior。OnthetopoftheraisedbeachtherewereAinohamlets，andoccasionallyanearlyoverpoweringstenchcameacrossthelevelfromtheshedsandapparatususedforextractingfish-oil。Ienjoyedtheafternoonthoroughly。ItissogoodtohavegotbeyondtheconfinesofstereotypedcivilisationandthetrammelsofJapanesetravellingtothesolitudeofnatureandanatmosphereoffreedom。Itwasgrey，withahard，darklineofoceanhorizon，andovertheweedylevelthegreyroad，withgreytelegraph-polesalongit，stretchedwearisomelylikeagreythread。Thebreezecameupfromthesea，rustledthereeds，andwavedthetallplumesoftheEulaliajaponica，andthethunderofthePacificsurgesboomedthroughtheairwithitsgrand，deepbass。Poetryandmusicpervadedthesolitude，andmyspiritwasrested。