Beetles，spiders，andwood-liceheldacarnivalinmyroomafterdark，andthepresenceofhorsesinthesamehousebroughtanumberofhorseflies。Isprinkledmystretcherwithinsectpowder，butmyblankethadbeenonthefloorforoneminute，andfleasrenderedsleepimpossible。Thenightwasverylong。Theandonwentout，leavingastrongsmellofrancidoil。TheprimitiveJapanesedog——

　　acream-colouredwolfish-lookinganimal，thesizeofacollie，verynoisyandaggressive，butascowardlyasbulliesusuallyare——wasingreatforceinFujihara，andthebarking，growling，andquarrellingoftheseuselesscurscontinuedatintervalsuntildaylight；andwhentheywerenotquarrelling，theywerehowling。

　　Torrentsofrainfell，obligingmetomovemybedfromplacetoplacetogetoutofthedrip。AtfiveItocameandentreatedmetoleave，whimpering，“I’vehadnosleep；therearethousandsandthousandsoffleas！“HehastravelledbyanotherroutetotheTsugaruStraitthroughtheinterior，andsaysthathewouldnothavebelievedthattherewassuchaplaceinJapan，andthatpeopleinYokohamawillnotbelieveitwhenhetellsthemofitandofthecostumeofthewomen。Heis“ashamedforaforeignertoseesuchaplace，“hesays。Hisclevernessintravellingandhissingularintelligencesurprisemedaily。HeisveryanxioustospeakGOOD

　　English，asdistinguishedfrom“common“English，andtogetnewwords，withtheircorrectpronunciationandspelling。Eachdayheputsdowninhisnote-bookallthewordsthatIusethathedoesnotquiteunderstand，andintheeveningbringsthemtomeandputsdowntheirmeaningandspellingwiththeirJapaneseequivalents。

　　HespeaksEnglishalreadyfarbetterthanmanyprofessionalinterpreters，butwouldbemorepleasingifhehadnotpickedupsomeAmericanvulgarismsandfree-and-easyways。Itissoimportanttometohaveagoodinterpreter，orIshouldnothaveengagedsoyoungandinexperiencedaservant；butheissocleverthatheisnowabletobecook，laundryman，andgeneralattendant，aswellascourierandinterpreter，andIthinkitisfareasierformethanifhewereanolderman。Iamtryingtomanagehim，becauseIsawthathemeanttomanageme，speciallyinthematterof“squeezes。“HeisintenselyJapanese，hispatriotismhasalltheweaknessandstrengthofpersonalvanity，andhethinkseverythinginferiorthatisforeign。Ourmanners，eyes，andmodesofeatingappearsimplyodioustohim。HedelightsinretailingstoriesofthebadmannersofEnglishmen，describesthemas“roaringoutohiotoeveryoneontheroad，“frighteningthetea-

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