feetingirthat3feetfromtheground，theytakeoneprisonerbytheirbeauty，indefianceofallrulesofwesternart，andcompelonetoacknowledgethebeautyofformsandcombinationsofcolourhithertounknown，andthatlacqueredwoodiscapableoflendingitselftotheexpressionofaveryhighideainart。Goldhasbeenusedinprofusion，andblack，dullred，andwhite，withabreadthandlavishnessquiteunique。Thebronzefret-workaloneisastudy，andthewood-carvingneedsweeksofearnestworkforthemasteryofitsideasanddetails。Onescreenorrailingonlyhassixtypanels，each4feetlong，carvedwithmarvellousboldnessanddepthinopenwork，representingpeacocks，pheasants，storks，lotuses，peonies，bamboos，andfoliage。Thefidelitytoformandcolourinthebirds，andthereproductionofthegloryofmotion，couldnotbeexcelled。

　　Yettheflowerspleasemeevenbetter。Trulytheartisthasrevelledinhiswork，andhascarvedandpaintedwithjoy。Thelotusleafretainsitsdewybloom，thepeonyitsshadesofcreamywhite，thebambooleafstilltremblesonitsgracefulstem，incontrasttotherigidneedlesofthepine，andcountlesscorollas，inalltheperfectcolouringofpassionatelife，unfoldthemselvesamidsttheleafageofthegorgeoustracery。Thesecarvingsarefrom10to15inchesdeep，andsinglefeathersinthetailsofthepheasantsstandoutfully6inchesinfrontofpeoniesnearlyasdeep。

　　ThedetailsfadefrommymemorydailyasIleavetheshrines，andintheirplacearepicturesquemassesofblackandredlacquerandgold，gildeddoorsopeningwithoutnoise，hallslaidwithmattingsosoftthatnotafootfallsounds，acrosswhosetwilightthesunbeamsfallaslantonrichlyarabesquedwallsandpanelscarvedwithbirdsandflowers，andonceilingspanelledandwroughtwithelaborateart，ofinnershrinesofgold，andgoldenliliessixfeethigh，andcurtainsofgoldbrocade，andincensefumes，andcolossalbellsandgoldenridgepoles；ofthemythicalfauna，kirin，dragon，andhowo，ofelephants，apes，andtigers，strangelymingledwithflowersandtrees，andgoldentracery，anddiaperworkonagoldground，andlacquerscreens，andpagodas，andgrovesofbronzelanterns，andshavenpriestsingoldbrocade，andShintoattendantsinblacklacquercaps，andgleamsofsunlitgoldhereandthere，andsimplemonumentalurns，andamountain-sidecoveredwithacryptomeriaforest，withroseazaleaslightingupitssolemnshade。

　　To-dayIhavemadeanexperimentaljourneyonhorseback，havedonefifteenmilesineighthoursofcontinuoustravelling，andhaveencounteredforthefirsttimetheJapanesepack-horse——ananimalofwhichmanyunpleasingstoriesaretold，andwhichhashithertobeenasmythicaltomeasthekirin，ordragon。Ihaveneitherbeenkicked，bitten，norpitchedoff，however，formaresareusedexclusivelyinthisdistrict，gentlecreaturesaboutfourteenhandshigh，withweakhind-quarters，andheadsnearlyconcealedbyshaggymanesandforelocks。Theyareledbyaroperoundthenose，andgobarefoot，exceptonstonyground，whenthemago，ormanwholeadsthem，tiesstrawsandalsontheirfeet。Thepack-saddleiscomposedoftwopacksofstraweightinchesthick，facedwithred，andconnectedbeforeandbehindbystrongoakarchesgailypaintedorlacquered。Thereisforagirtharopelooselytiedunderthebody，andthesecurityoftheloaddependsonacrupper，usuallyapieceofbambooattachedtothesaddlebyropesstrungwithwoodencounters，andanotherroperoundtheneck，intowhichyouputyourfootasyouscrambleoverthehighfrontuponthetopoftheerection。Theloadmustbecarefullybalancedoritcomestogrief，andthemagohandlesitalloverfirst，and，ifanaccuratedivisionofweightisimpossible，addsastonetoonesideortheother。Here，womenwhowearenormousrainhatsandgirdtheirkimonosovertightbluetrousers，bothloadthehorsesandleadthem。Idroppeduponmyloadedhorsefromthetopofawall，theridges，bars，tags，andknottedriggingofthesaddlebeingsmoothedoverbyafoldedfuton，orwaddedcottonquilt，andIwasthenfourteeninchesabovetheanimal’sback，withmyfeethangingoverhisneck。Youmustbalanceyourselfcarefully，oryoubringthewholeerectionover；butbalancingsoonbecomesamatterofhabit。Ifthehorsedoesnotstumble，thepack-saddleistolerableonlevelground，butmostsevereonthespineingoinguphill，andsointolerableingoingdownthatIwasrelievedwhenIfoundthatIhadslidoverthehorse’sheadintoamud-hole；andyouarequitehelpless，ashedoesnotunderstandabridle，ifyouhaveone，andblindlyfollowshisleader，whotrudgesonsixfeetinfrontofhim。

　　Thehardday’sjourneyendedinanexquisiteyadoya，beautifulwithinandwithout，andmorefitforfairiesthanfortravel-soiledmortals。Thefusumaarelightplanedwoodwithasweetscent，themattingnearlywhite，thebalconiespolishedpine。Onentering，asmilinggirlbroughtmesomeplum-flowerteawithadelicatealmondflavour，asweetmeatmadeofbeansandsugar，andalacquerbowloffrozensnow。Aftermakingadifficultmealfromafowlofmuchexperience，Ispenttheeveningoutofdoors，asaJapanesewatering-placeisaninterestingnovelty。

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