hadseenthemallbefore,solikearetheytotheirpicturesontrays,fans,andtea-pots。Thehairofthewomenisalldrawnawayfromtheirfaces,andisworninchignons,andthemen,whentheydon’tshavethefrontoftheirheadsandgathertheirbackhairintoaquaintqueuedrawnforwardovertheshavenpatch,weartheircoarsehairaboutthreeincheslonginarefractoryundividedmop。
Davies,anorderlyfromtheLegation,metme,——oneoftheescortcutdownandseverelywoundedwhenSirH。ParkeswasattackedinthestreetofKiyotoinMarch1868onhiswaytohisfirstaudienceoftheMikado。Hundredsofkurumas,andcoveredcartswithfourwheelsdrawnbyonemiserablehorse,whicharetheomnibusesofcertaindistrictsofTokiyo,werewaitingoutsidethestation,andanEnglishbroughamforme,witharunningbetto。TheLegationstandsinKojimachionveryelevatedgroundabovetheinnermoatofthehistoric“CastleofYedo,“butIcannottellyouanythingofwhatIsawonmywaythither,exceptthatthereweremilesofdark,silent,barrack-likebuildings,withhighlyornamentalgateways,andlongrowsofprojectingwindowswithscreensmadeofreeds——thefeudalmansionsofYedo——andmilesofmoatswithloftygrassembankmentsorwallsofmassivemasonry50feethigh,withkiosk-
liketowersatthecorners,andcurious,roofedgateways,andmanybridges,andacresoflotusleaves。Turningalongtheinnermoat,upasteepslope,thereare,ontheright,itsdeepgreenwaters,thegreatgrassembankmentsurmountedbyadismalwalloverhungbythebranchesofconiferoustreeswhichsurroundedthepalaceoftheShogun,andontheleftsundryyashikis,asthemansionsofthedaimiyowerecalled,nowinthisquartermostlyturnedintohospitals,barracks,andGovernmentoffices。Onaheight,themostconspicuousofthemall,isthegreatredgatewayoftheyashiki,nowoccupiedbytheFrenchMilitaryMission,formerlytheresidenceofIiKamonnoKami,oneofthegreatactorsinrecenthistoricevents,whowasassassinatednotfaroff,outsidetheSakarudagateofthecastle。Besidesthese,barracks,parade-grounds,policemen,kurumas,cartspulledandpushedbycoolies,pack-horsesinstrawsandals,anddwarfish,slatternly-lookingsoldiersinEuropeandress,madeuptheTokiyothatIsawbetweenShinbashiandtheLegation。
H。B。M。’sLegationhasagoodsituationneartheForeignOffice,severaloftheGovernmentdepartments,andtheresidencesoftheministers,whicharechieflyofbrickintheEnglishsuburbanvillastyle。Withinthecompound,withabrickarchwaywiththeRoyalArmsuponitforanentrance,aretheMinister’sresidence,theChancery,twohousesforthetwoEnglishSecretariesofLegation,andquartersfortheescort。
ItisanEnglishhouseandanEnglishhome,though,withtheexceptionofavenerablenurse,therearenoEnglishservants。ThebutlerandfootmanaretallChinamen,withlongpig-tails,blacksatincaps,andlongbluerobes;thecookisaChinaman,andtheotherservantsareallJapanese,includingonefemaleservant,asweet,gentle,kindlygirlabout4feet5inheight,thewifeofthehead“housemaid。“Noneoftheservantsspeakanythingbutthemostaggravating“pidgun“English,buttheirdeficientspeechismorethanmadeupforbytheintelligenceandserviceoftheorderlyinwaiting,whoisrarelyabsentfromtheneighbourhoodofthehalldoor,andattendstothevisitors’bookandtoallmessagesandnotes。TherearetworealEnglishchildrenofsixandseven,withgreatcapacitiesforsuchinnocentenjoymentsascanbefoundwithinthelimitsofthenurseryandgarden。Theotherinmateofthehouseisabeautifulandattractiveterriercalled“Rags,“aSkyedog,whounbends“inthebosomofhisfamily,“butordinarilyisasimposinginhisdemeanourasifhe,andnothismaster,representedthedignityoftheBritishEmpire。
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