第84章
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  duringagreatpartoftheyear;theyextendtheircurrentsononesideatleastoftheequatorquitebeyondthemiddleofthecontinent,andevenuntilinAngolatheymeetthesea-breezefromtheAtlantic。

  Ifthereaderrememberstheexplanationgivenatpage109,*

  thatthecomparativewantofrainontheKalahariDesertiscausedbythemassofairlosingitshumidityasitpassesupandglidesoverthesubtendingridge,andwillturntothemap,hemayperceivethatthesamecauseisinoperationinanintensedegreebythemountainsofAbyssiniatorendertheregionaboutDarfurstillmorearid,andthattheflankingrangesmentionedliemuchnearertheequatorthanthosewhichrobtheKalahariofhumidity。

  TheNile,evenwhilerunningthroughapartofthatregion,receivesremarkablyfewbranchesObservingalsothatthereisnoknownabruptlateralmountain-rangebetween6Degand12DegS。,butthatthereisanelevatedpartitionthere,andthatthesouthingandnorthingofthesoutheastersandnortheastersprobablycauseaconfluenceofthetwogreatatmosphericcurrents,hewillperceiveanaccumulationofhumidityontheflanksandcrownofthepartition,insteadof,aselsewhere,oppositetheKalahariandDarfur,adepositionoftheatmosphericmoistureontheeasternslopesofthesubtendingridgesThisexplanationisofferedwithalldeferencetothosewhohavemademeteorologytheirspecialstudy,andasahinttotravelerswhomayhaveopportunitytoexaminethesubjectmorefullyIoftenobserved,whileonaportionofthepartition,thattheairbynightwasgenerallyquitestill,butassoonasthesun’sraysbegantoshootacrosstheupperstrataoftheatmosphereintheearlymorning,acopiousdischargecamesuddenlydownfromtheaccumulatedclouds。

  Italwaysremindedmeoftheexperimentofputtingarodintoasaturatedsolutionofacertainsalt,causinginstantcrystallization。

  This,too,wastheperiodwhenIoftenobservedthegreatestamountofcold。

  *Sincetheexplanationinpage109[Chapter5Paragraph5]wasprinted,Ihavebeenpleasedtoseethesameexplanationgivenbythepopularastronomerandnaturalphilosopher,MBabinet,inreferencetotheclimateofFranceItisquotedfromaletterofacorrespondentofthe`Times’inParis:

  “InthenormalmeteorologicalstateofFranceandEurope,thewestwind,whichisthecounter-currentofthetrade-windsthatconstantlyblowfromtheeastunderthetropics

  thewestwind,Isay,afterhavingtouchedFranceandEuropebythewesternshores,re-descendsbyMarseillesandtheMediterranean,ConstantinopleandtheArchipelago,AstrakanandtheCaspianSea,inordertomergeagainintothegreatcircuitofthegeneralwinds,andbethuscarriedagainintotheequatorialcurrent。

  Wheneverthesemassesofair,impregnatedwithhumidityduringtheirpassageovertheocean,meetwithanobstacle,suchasachainofmountains,forexample,theyslideuptheacclivity,and,whentheyreachthecrest,findthemselvesrelievedfromaportionofthecolumnofairwhichpresseduponthem。

  Thus,dilatingbyreasonoftheirelasticity,theycauseaconsiderabledegreeofcold,andaprecipitationofhumidityintheformoffogs,clouds,rain,orsnowAsimilareffectoccurswhateverbetheobstacletheyfindintheirwayNowthisiswhathadgraduallytakenplacebefore1856Bysomecauseorotherconnectedwiththecurrentsoftheatmosphere,thewarmcurrentfromthewesthadannuallyascendednorthward,sothat,insteadofpassingthroughFrance,itcamefromtheBalticandthenorthofGermany,thusmomentarilydisturbingtheordinarylawofthetemperaturesofEurope。

  Butin1856asuddenchangeoccurredThewesterncurrentagainpassed,asbefore,throughthecentreofFranceItmetwithanobstacleintheairwhichhadnotyetfounditsusualoutlettowardthewestandsouth。

  Henceastoppage,arising,aconsequentdilationandfalloftemperature,extraordinaryrainsandinundationsBut,nowthatthenaturalstateofthingsisrestored,nothingappearstoprognosticatethereturnofsimilardisastersWerethewesterncurrentfoundannuallytomovefurthernorth,wemightagainexperiencemeteorologicaleffectssimilartothoseof1856Hencetheregularseasonsmaybeconsideredre-establishedinFranceforseveralyearstocome。

  TheimportantmeteorologicalcommunicationswhichtheImperialObservatoryisdailyestablishingwiththeothercountriesofEurope,andtheintroductionofapparatusformeasuringthevelocityoftheaerialcurrentsandprevailingwinds,willsoonaffordprognosticssufficientlycertaintoenableanenlightenedgovernmenttoprovideintimeagainstfutureevils。”

  AftercrossingtheNorthernLotembwawemetapartyofthepeopleofKangenke,whohadtreateduskindlyonourwaytothenorth,andsenthimarobeofstripedcalico,withanexplanationofthereasonfornotreturningthroughhisvillageWethenwentontotheLakeDilolo。

  Itisafinesheetofwater,sixoreightmileslong,andoneortwobroad,andsomewhatofatriangularshapeAbranchproceedsfromoneoftheangles,andflowsintotheSouthernLotembwaThoughlaboringunderfever,thesightofthebluewaters,andthewaveslashingtheshore,hadamostsoothinginfluenceonthemind,aftersomuchoflifeless,flat,andgloomyforestTheheartyearnedforthevividimpressionswhicharealwayscreatedbythesightofthebroadexpanseofthegrandoldocean。

  Thathaslifeinit;buttheflatuniformitiesoverwhichwehadroamedmademefeelasifburiedaliveWefoundMoeneDiloloLordoftheLake

  afat,jollyfellow,wholamentedthatwhentheyhadnostrangerstheyhadplentyofbeer,andalwaysnonewhentheycameHegaveusahandsomepresentofmealandputridbuffalo’sfleshMeatcannotbetoofargoneforthem,asitisusedonlyinsmallquantities,asasaucetotheirtastelessmanioc。

  Theywereatthistimehuntingantelopes,inordertosendtheskinsasatributetoMatiamvoGreatquantitiesoffisharecaughtinthelake;

  andnumbersofyoungwater-fowlarenowfoundinthenestsamongthereeds。

  Ourprogresshadalwaysbeenslow,andIfoundthatourrateoftravelingcouldonlybefivehoursadayforfivesuccessivedaysOnthesixth,bothmenandoxenshowedsymptomsofknockingupWeneverexceededtwoandahalforthreemilesanhourinastraightline,thoughallwereanxioustogethomeThedifferenceintherateoftravelingbetweenourselvesandtheslave-traderswasourhavingaratherquickerstep,alongerday’sjourney,andtwentytravelingdaysamonthinsteadoftheirtenWhenoneofmymenbecameill,butstillcouldwalk,otherspartedhisluggageamongthem;yetwehadoftentostoponedayaweek,besidesSundays,simplyforthesakeofrestThelatitudeofLakeDilolois11d32’1“S。,long22d27’E。

  JUNE14THWereachedthecollectionofstragglingvillagesoverwhichKatemarules,andwerethankfultoseeoldfamiliarfacesagain。

  Shakatwalaperformedthepartofachiefbybringingforthabundantsuppliesoffoodinhismaster’snameHeinformedusthatKatema,too,wasouthuntingskinsforMatiamvo。

  Indifferentpartsofthiscountry,weremarkedthatwhenoldfriendswereinquiredfor,thereplywas,“Bahola“Theyaregettingbetter;

  orifthepeopleofavillagewereinquiredfor,theanswerwas,“Theyarerecovering。”asifsicknesswasquiteacommonthing。

  Indeed,manywithwhomwehadmadeacquaintanceingoingnorthwenowfoundwereintheirgravesOnthe15thKatemacamehomefromhishunting,havingheardofourarrivalHedesiredmetorestmyselfandeatabundantly,for,beingagreatman,Imustfeeltired;andhetookgoodcaretogivethemeansofdoingsoAllthepeopleinthesepartsareexceedinglykindandliberalwiththeirfood,andKatemawasnotbehindhand。

  Whenhevisitedourencampment,Ipresentedhimwithacloakofredbaize,ornamentedwithgoldtinsel,whichcostthirtyshillings,accordingtothepromiseIhadmadeingoingtoLonda;alsoacottonrobe,bothlargeandsmallbeads,anironspoon,andatinpannikincontainingaquarterofapoundofpowderHeseemedgreatlypleasedwiththeliberalityshown,andassuredmethatthewaywasmine,andthatnooneshouldmolestmeinitifhecouldhelpit。

  WewereinformedbyShakatwalathatthechiefneverusedanypartofapresentbeforemakinganofferofittohismother,orthedepartedspirittowhomheprayedKatemaaskedifIcouldnotmakeadressforhimliketheoneIwore,sothathemightappearasawhitemanwhenanystrangervisitedhimOneofthecouncilors,imaginingthatheoughttosecondthisbybegging,Katemacheckedhimbysaying,“Whateverstrangersgive,beitlittleormuch,Ialwaysreceiveitwiththankfulness,andnevertroublethemformore。”Ondeparting,hemountedontheshouldersofhisspokesman,asthemostdignifiedmodeofretiringThespokesmanbeingaslenderman,andthechiefsixfeethigh,andstoutinproportion,therewouldhavebeenabreak-downhadhenotbeenaccustomedtoitWewereverymuchpleasedwithKatema;

  andnextdayhepresenteduswithacow,thatwemightenjoytheabundantsuppliesofmealhehadgivenwithgoodanimalfood。

  Hethendepartedforthehunting-ground,afterassuringmethatthetownandeverythinginitweremine,andthathisfactotum,Shakatwala,wouldremainandattendtoeverywant,andalsoconductustotheLeeba。

  OnattemptingtoslaughterthecowKatemahadgiven,wefoundtheherdaswildasbuffaloes;andoneofmymenhavingonlywoundedit,theyfledmanymilesintotheforest,andwerewithgreatdifficultybroughtbackEventheherdsmanwasafraidtogonearthem。

  Themajorityofthemwerewhite,andtheywereallbeautifulanimals。

  Afterhuntingitfortwodaysitwasdispatchedatlastbyanotherball。

  Herewesawaflockofjackdaws,araresightinLonda,busywiththegrubsinthevalley,whichareeatenbythepeopletoo。

  LeavingKatema’stownonthe19th,andproceedingfourmilestotheeastward,wefordedthesouthernbranchofLakeDiloloWefounditamileandaquarterbroad;and,asitflowsintotheLotembwa,thelakewouldseemtobeadrainofthesurroundingflats,andtopartakeofthecharacterofafountainThefordwaswaist-deep,andverydifficult,fromthemassesofarumandrushesthroughwhichwewadedGoingtotheeastwardaboutthreemiles,wecametotheSouthernLotembwaitself,runninginavalleytwomilesbroad。

  Itishereeightyorninetyyardswide,andcontainsnumerousislandscoveredwithdensesylvanvegetationIntherainyseasonthevalleyisflooded,andasthewatersdryupgreatmultitudesoffisharecaught。

  Thishappensveryextensivelyoverthecountry,andfishing-weirsaremetwitheverywhereAspeciesofsmallfish,aboutthesizeoftheminnow,iscaughtinbagfulsanddriedinthesunThetasteisapungentaromaticbitter,anditwaspartakenoffreelybymypeople,althoughtheyhadnevermetwithitbeforeOnmanyofthepathswhichhadbeenfloodedanastysortofslimeofdecayedvegetablematterisleftbehind,andmuchsicknessprevailsduringthedryingupofthewater。

  WedidnotfindourfriendMozinkwaathispleasanthomeontheLokaloeje;

  hiswifewasdead,andhehadremovedelsewhereHefollowedussomedistance,butourreappearanceseemedtostiruphissorrows。

  Wefoundthepontoonatthevillageinwhichweleftit。

  Ithadbeencarefullypreserved,butamousehadeatenaholeinitandrenderedituseless。

  WetraversedtheextendedplainonthenorthbankoftheLeeba,andcrossedthisriveralittlefartheronatKanyonke’svillage,whichisabouttwentymileswestofthePerihills,ourformerford。

  ThefirststagebeyondtheLeebawasattherivuletLoamba,bythevillageofChebende,nephewofShinte;andnextdaywemetChebendehimselfreturningfromthefuneralofSamoana,hisfather。

  Hewasthinandhaggard-lookingcomparedtowhathehadbeenbefore,theprobableeffectoftheorgiesinwhichhehadbeenengaged。

  PitsaneandMohorisi,havingconcoctedtheprojectofaMakololovillageonthebanksoftheLeeba,asanapproachtothewhiteman’smarket,spoketoChebende,asaninfluentialman,onthesubject,buthecautiouslyavoidedexpressinganopinionTheideawhichhadsprungupintheirownmindsofanestablishmentsomewhereneartheconfluenceoftheLeebaandLeeambye,commendeditselftomyjudgmentatthetimeasageographicallysuitablepointforcivilizationandcommerce。

  TherightbankoftheLeebathereisneverflooded;andfromthatpointthereiscommunicationbymeansofcanoestothecountryoftheKanyika,andalsotoCazembeandbeyond,withbutoneortwolargewaterfallsbetween。

  ThereisnoobstructiondowntotheBarotsevalley;andthereisprobablycanoenavigationdowntheKafueorBashukulompoRiver,thoughitisreportedtocontainmanycataractsItflowsthroughafertilecountry,wellpeopledwithBamasasa,whocultivatethenativeproducelargely。

  Asthiswasthemiddleofwinter,itmaybementionedthatthetemperatureofthewaterinthemorningwas47Deg。,andthatoftheair50Deg。,which,beingloadedwithmoisture,wasverycoldtothefeelingsYetthesunwasveryhotbyday,andthetemperatureinthecoolestshadefrom88Degto90Deg。;

  intheeveningsfrom76Degto78Deg。

  BeforereachingthetownofShintewepassedthroughmanylargevillagesoftheBalobale,whohavefledfromthechiefKangenkeTheMambarifromBihecomeconstantlytohimfortrade;and,ashesellshispeople,greatnumbersofthemescapetoShinteandKatema,whorefusetogivethemup。

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