Theseasonofthesechanges，whichisthemostfavorableforEuropeans，isthemostunhealthyforthenativepopulation；andthisisbynomeansaclimateinwhicheithernativesorEuropeanscanindulgeinirregularitieswithimpunity。
Owingtotheweaknessofthemenwhohadbeensick，wewereabletomarchbutshortdistancesThreehoursandahalfbroughtustothebanksoftheCaloi，asmallstreamwhichflowsintotheSenza。
Thisisoneofthepartsofthecountryreputedtoyieldpetroleum，butthegeologicalformation，beingmicaschist，dippingtowardtheeastward，didnotpromisemuchforourfindingitOurhospitablefriend，MrMellot，accompaniedustoanotherlittleriver，calledtheQuango，whereIsawtwofineboys，thesonsofthesub-commandant，MrFeltao，who，thoughonlyfromsixtoeightyearsold，weresubjecttofever。
Wethenpassedoninthebrightsunlight，thewholecountrylookingsofreshandgreenaftertherains，andeverythingsocheering，onecouldnotbutwondertofinditsofeverish。
Wefound，onreachingAmbaca，thatthegallantoldsoldier，LaurenceJoseMarquis，had，sinceourpassingIcolloiBengo，beenpromoted，onaccountofhissternintegrity，tothegovernmentofthisimportantdistrictTheofficeofcommandantismuchcovetedbytheofficersofthelinewhocometoAngola，notsomuchforthesalaryasfortheperquisites，which，whenmanagedskillfully，inthecourseofafewyearsmakeonerichAnideamaybeformedoftheconductofsomeoftheseofficialsfromthefollowingextractfromtheBoletinofLoandaofthe28thofOctober，1854：
“Theactinggovernor-generaloftheprovinceofAngolaanditsdependenciesdeterminesasfollows：
“HavinginstitutedaninvestigationSyndecanciaagainstthecommandantofthefortof，acaptainofthearmyofPortugalincommissioninthisprovince，，onaccountofnumerouscomplaints，whichhavecomebeforethisgovernment，ofviolencesandextortionspracticedbythesaidcommandant，andthosecomplaintsappearingbytheresultoftheinvestigationtobewellfounded，itwillbeconvenienttoexoneratethecaptainreferredtofromthecommandofthefortof，towhichhehadbeennominatedbytheportfolioofthisgeneralgovernment，No41，of27thDecemberofthepastyear；andifnototherwisedetermined，thesameofficialshallbejudgedbyacouncilofwarforthecriminalactswhicharetohimattributed。”
Eventhispublicmentionofhiscrimesattachesnostigmatotheman’scharacterThecouncilofwar，bywhichthesedelinquentsalwaysprefertobejudged，iscomposedofmenwhoeagerlyexpecttooccupythepostofcommandantthemselves，andanticipatetheirowntrialforsimilaractsatsomefuturetimeTheseverestsentenceacouncilofwarawardsisafewweeks’suspensionfromofficeinhisregiment。
Thiswantofofficialintegrity，whichisnotatallattributabletothehomegovernmentofPortugal，wouldproveaseriousimpedimentinthewayofforeignenterprisedevelopingtheresourcesofthisrichprovince。
Andtothiscause，indeed，maybeascribedthefailureofthePortugueselawsfortheentiresuppressionoftheslave-tradeTheofficersoughttoreceivehigherpay，ifintegrityisexpectedfromthemAtpresent，acaptain’spayforayearwillonlykeephimingooduniform。
Thehighpayourownofficersreceivehasmanifestadvantages。
BeforeleavingAmbacawereceivedapresentoftenheadofcattlefromMrSchutofLoanda，and，asitshowsthecheapnessofprovisionshere，Imaymentionthatthecostwasonlyaboutaguineaperhead。
OncrossingtheLucallawemadeadetourtothesouth，inordertovisitthefamousrocksofPungoAndongoAssoonaswecrossedtherivuletLotete，achangeinthevegetationofthecountrywasapparentWefoundtreesidenticalwiththosetobeseensouthoftheChobeThegrass，too，standsintufts，andisofthatkindwhichthenativesconsidertobebestadaptedforcattleTwospeciesofgrape-bearingvinesaboundeverywhereinthisdistrict，andtheinfluenceofthegoodpasturageisseenintheplumpconditionofthecattleInallmypreviousinquiriesrespectingthevegetableproductsofAngola，IwasinvariablydirectedtoPungoAndongoDoyougrowwheat？“Oh，yes，inPungoAndongo。”
Grapes，figs，orpeaches？“Oh，yes，inPungoAndongo。”
Doyoumakebutter，cheese，etc。？Theuniformanswerwas，“Oh，yes，thereisabundanceofalltheseinPungoAndongo。”
Butwhenwearrivedhere，wefoundthattheanswersallreferredtotheactivityofoneman，ColonelManuelAntonioPires。
Thepresenceofthewildgrapeshowsthatvineyardsmightbecultivatedwithsuccess；thewheatgrowswellwithoutirrigation；
andanyonewhotastedthebutterandcheeseatthetableofColonelPireswouldpreferthemtothestaleproduceoftheIrishdairy，ingeneralusethroughoutthatprovinceThecattleinthiscountryareseldommilked，onaccountofthestrongprejudicewhichthePortugueseentertainagainsttheuseofmilkTheybelievethatitmaybeusedwithsafetyinthemorning，but，iftakenaftermidday，thatitwillcausefever。
Itseemedtomethattherewasnotmuchreasonforcarefullyavoidingafewdropsintheircoffee，afterhavingdevouredtentimestheamountintheshapeofcheeseatdinner。
ThefortofPungoAndongolat9d42’14“S。，long15d30’E。
issituatedinthemidstofagroupofcuriouscolumnar-shapedrocks，eachofwhichisupwardofthreehundredfeetinheightTheyarecomposedofconglomerate，madeupofagreatvarietyofroundedpiecesinamatrixofdarkredsandstoneTheyrestonathickstratumofthislastrock，withveryfewofthepebblesinitssubstance。
Onthisafossilpalmhasbeenfound，andifofthesameageasthoseontheeasternsideofthecontinent，onwhichsimilarpalmsnowlie，theremaybecoalunderneaththis，aswellasunderthatatTete。
TheassertedexistenceofpetroleumspringsatDande，andnearCambambe，wouldseemtoindicatethepresenceofthisusefulmineral，thoughIamnotawareofanyonehavingactuallyseenaseamofcoaltilteduptothesurfaceinAngola，aswehaveatTete。
ThegiganticpillarsofPungoAndongohavebeenformedbyacurrentoftheseacomingfromtheS。S。E。；for，seenfromthetop，theyappeararrangedinthatdirection，andmusthavewithstoodthesurgesoftheoceanataperiodofourworld’shistory，whentherelationsoflandandseaweretotallydifferentfromwhattheyarenow，andlongbefore“themorningstarssangtogether，andallthesonsofGodshoutedforjoytoseetheabodespreparedwhichmanwassoontofill。”
Theimbeddedpiecesintheconglomerateareofgneiss，clayshale，micaandsandstoneschists，trap，andporphyry，mostofwhicharelargeenoughtogivethewholetheappearanceofbeingtheonlyremainingvestigesofvastprimaevalbanksofshingleSeverallittlestreamsrunamongtheserocks，andinthecentralpartofthepillarsstandsthevillage，completelyenvironedbywell-nighinaccessiblerocks。
Thepathwaysintothevillagemightbedefendedbyasmallbodyoftroopsagainstanarmy；andthisplacewaslongthestrongholdofthetribecalledJinga，theoriginalpossessorsofthecountry。
Wewereshownafootprintcarvedononeoftheserocks。
Itisspokenofasthatofafamousqueen，whoreignedoverallthisregion。
Inlookingattheserudeattemptsatcommemoration，onefeelsthevalueoflettersInthehistoryofAngolawefindthatthefamousqueenDonnaAnnadeSouzacamefromthevicinity，asembassadressfromherbrother，GolaBandy，KingoftheJinga，toLoanda，in1621，tosueforpeace，andastonishedthegovernorbythereadinessofheranswersThegovernorproposed，asaconditionofpeace，thepaymentbytheJingaofanannualtribute。
“Peopletalkoftributeaftertheyhaveconquered，andnotbeforeit；
wecometotalkofpeace，notofsubjection。”wasthereadyanswer。
ThegovernorwasasmuchnonplussedasourCapegovernorsoftenarewhentheytelltheCaffres“toputitalldowninwriting，andtheywillthenbeabletoanswerthem。”SheremainedsometimeinLoanda，gainedallshesought，and，afterbeingtaughtbythemissionaries，wasbaptized，andreturnedtoherowncountrywithhonor。
Shesucceededtothekingdomonthedeathofherbrother，whomitwassupposedshepoisoned，butinasubsequentwarwiththePortugueseshelostnearlyallherarmyinagreatbattlefoughtin1627。
ShereturnedtotheChurchafteralongperiodofapostasy，anddiedinextremeoldage；andtheJingastillliveasanindependentpeopletothenorthofthistheirancientcountryNoAfricantribehaseverbeendestroyed。
InformertimesthePortugueseimaginedthatthisplacewasparticularlyunhealthy，andbanishmenttotheblackrocksofPungoAndongowasthoughtbytheirjudgestobeamuchseverersentencethantransportationtoanypartofthecoast；butthisdistrictisnowwellknowntobethemosthealthypartofAngola。
Thewaterisremarkablypure，thesoilislight，andthecountryopenandundulating，withageneralslopedowntowardtheRiverCoanza，afewmilesdistantThatriveristhesouthernboundaryofthePortuguese，andbeyond，totheSandS。W。，weseethehighmountainsoftheLibollo。
OntheS。Ewehavealsoamountainouscountry，inhabitedbytheKimbondaorAmbonda，whoaresaidbyColonelPirestobeaverybraveandindependentpeople，buthospitableandfairintheirdealingsTheyarerichincattle，andtheircountryproducesmuchbeeswax，whichiscarefullycollected，andbroughttothePortuguese，withwhomtheyhavealwaysbeenongoodterms。
TheAkoHaco，abranchofthisfamily，inhabittheleftbankoftheCoanzaabovethisvillage，who，insteadofbringingslavesforsale，asformerly，nowoccasionallybringwaxforthepurchaseofaslavefromthePortuguese。
Isawaboysoldfortwelveshillings：hesaidthathebelongedtothecountryofMatiamvoHereIboughtapairofwell-madeboots，ofgoodtannedleather，whichreachedabovetheknee，forfiveshillingsandeightpence，andthatwasjustthepricegivenforonepoundofivorybyMrPires；consequently，theboywasworthtwopairsofboots，ortwopoundsofivoryTheLibolloontheShavenotsogoodacharacter，buttheCoanzaisalwaysdeepenoughtoformalineofdefense。
ColonelPiresisagoodexampleofwhatanhonestindustriousmaninthiscountrymaybecomeHecameasaservantinaship，and，byalongcourseofperseveringlabor，hasraisedhimselftobetherichestmerchantinAngolaHepossessessomethousandsofcattle；
and，onanyemergency，canappearinthefieldwithseveralhundredarmedslaves。
Whileenjoyingthehospitalityofthismerchant-princeinhiscommodiousresidence，whichisoutsidetherocks，andcommandsabeautifulviewofalltheadjacentcountry，Ilearnedthatallmydispatches，maps，andjournalhadgonetothebottomoftheseainthemail-packet“Forerunner“IfeltsogladthatmyfriendLieutenantBedingfeld，towhosecareIhadcommittedthem，thoughinthemostimminentdanger，hadnotsharedasimilarfate，thatIwasatoncereconciledtothelaborofrewritingIavailedmyselfofthekindnessofColonelPires，andremainedtilltheendoftheyearreproducingmylostpapers。
ColonelPireshavinganotherestablishmentonthebanksoftheCoanza，aboutsixmilesdistant，IvisiteditwithhimaboutonceaweekforthepurposeofrecreationThedifferenceoftemperaturecausedbytheloweraltitudewasseeninthecashew-trees；
forwhile，neartherocks，thesetreeswerebutcomingintoflower，thoseatthelowerstationwereripeningtheirfruit。
Cocoanuttreesandbananasbearwellatthelowerstation，butyieldlittleornofruitattheupperThedifferenceindicatedbythethermometerwas7DegThegeneralrangeneartherockswas67Degat7A。M。，74Degatmidday，and72Degintheevening。
Aslave-boybelongingtoColonelPires，havingstolenandeatensomelemonsintheevening，wenttotherivertowashhismouth，soasnottobedetectedbytheflavorAnalligatorseizedhimandcarriedhimtoanislandinthemiddleofthestream；theretheboygraspedholdofthereeds，andbaffledalltheeffortsofthereptiletodislodgehim，tillhiscompanions，attractedbyhiscries，cameinacanoetohisassistanceThealligatoratonceletgohishold；
for，whenoutofhisownelement，heiscowardlyTheboyhadmanymarksoftheteethinhisabdomenandthigh，andthoseoftheclawsonhislegsandarms。
TheslavesinColonelPires’establishmentsappearedmorelikefreeservantsthananyIhadelsewhereseenEverythingwasneatandclean，whilegenerally，whereslavesaretheonlydomestics，thereisanaspectofslovenliness，asiftheywentontheprincipleofalwaysdoingaslittlefortheirmastersaspossible。