第39章
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  Agreatmanyvillagesofthispoorandveryindustriouspeoplearesituatedonbothbanksoftheriver:theyareexperthuntersofthehippopotamiandotheranimals,andveryproficientinthemanufactureofarticlesofwoodandironThewholeofthispartofthecountrybeinginfestedwiththetsetse,theyareunabletoreardomesticanimals。

  ThismayhaveledtotheirskillinhandicraftworksSomemakelargewoodenvesselswithveryneatlids,andwoodenbowlsofallsizes;

  andsincetheideaofsittingonstoolshasenteredtheMakololomind,theyhaveshowngreattasteinthedifferentformsgiventothelegsofthesepiecesoffurniture。

  OtherBanyeti,orManyeti,astheyarecalled,makeneatandstrongbasketsofthesplitrootsofacertaintree,whileothersexcelinpotteryandiron。

  IcannotfindthattheyhaveeverbeenwarlikeIndeed,thewarsinthecentreofthecountry,wherenoslave-tradeexisted,haveseldombeenaboutanythingelsebutcattleSowellknownisthis,thatseveraltribesrefusetokeepcattlebecausetheytempttheirenemiestocomeandstealNevertheless,theyhavenoobjectiontoeatthemwhenoffered,andtheircountryadmitsofbeingwellstocked。

  Ihaveheardofbutonewarhavingoccurredfromanothercause。

  Threebrothers,Barolongs,foughtforthepossessionofawomanwhowasconsideredworthabattle,andthetribehasremainedpermanentlydividedeversince。

  Fromthebenduptothenorth,calledKatima-moleloIquenchedfire,thebedoftheriverisrocky,andthestreamrunsfast,formingasuccessionofrapidsandcataracts,whichpreventcontinuousnavigationwhenthewaterislowTherapidsarenotvisiblewhentheriverisfull,butthecataractsofNambwe,Bombwe,andKalemustalwaysbedangerousThefallateachoftheseisbetweenfourandsixfeet。

  ButthefallsofGonyepresentamuchmoreseriousobstacle。

  Therewewereobligedtotakethecanoesoutofthewater,andcarrythemmorethanamilebylandThefallisaboutthirtyfeet。

  Themainbodyofwater,whichcomesovertheledgeofrockwhentheriverislow,iscollectedintoaspaceseventyoreightyyardswidebeforeittakestheleap,and,amassofrockbeingthrustforwardagainsttheroaringtorrent,aloudsoundisproducedTraditionreportsthedestructioninthisplaceoftwohippopotamus-hunters,who,over-eagerinthepursuitofawoundedanimal,were,withtheirintendedprey,drawndownintothefrightfulgulfThereisalsoatraditionofaman,evidentlyofasuperiormind,wholefthisowncountrymen,theBarotse,andcamedowntheriver,tookadvantageofthefalls,andledoutaportionofthewaterthereforirrigationSuchmindsmusthavearisenfromtimetotimeintheseregions,aswellasinourowncountry,but,ignorantoftheuseofletters,theyhaveleftnomemorialbehindthem。

  Wedugoutsomeofaninferiorkindofpotato`Sisinyane’fromhisgarden,forwhenonceplanteditneverdiesoutThisrootisbitterandwaxy,thoughitiscultivatedItwasnotinflower,soIcannotsaywhetheritisasolanaceousplantornotOneneverexpectstofindagravenorastoneofremembrancesetupinAfrica;theveryrocksareilliterate,theycontainsofewfossilsThosehereareofreddishvariegated,hardenedsandstone,withmadreporeholesinitThis,andbroadhorizontalstrataoftrap,sometimesahundredmilesinextent,andeachlayerhavinganinchorsoofblacksiliciousmatteronit,asifithadfloatedtherewhileinastateoffusion,formagreatpartofthebottomofthecentralvalleyTheserocks,inthesouthernpartofthecountryespecially,areoftencoveredwithtwelveorfifteenfeetofsoftcalcareoustufaAtBombwewehavethesametrap,withradiatedzeolite,probablymesotype,anditagainappearsattheconfluenceoftheChobe,fartherdown。

  Aswepasseduptheriver,thedifferentvillagesofBanyetiturnedouttopresentSekeletuwithfoodandskins,astheirtribute。

  OnelargevillageisplacedatGonye,theinhabitantsofwhicharerequiredtoassisttheMakololotocarrytheircanoespastthefalls。

  Thetsetseherelightedonuseveninthemiddleofthestream。

  Thiswecrossedrepeatedly,inordertomakeshortcutsatbendsoftheriver。

  Thecourseis,however,remarkablystraightamongtherocks;

  andheretheriverisshallow,onaccountofthegreatbreadthofsurfacewhichitcoversWhenwecametoabout16d16’Slatitude,thehighwoodedbanksseemedtoleavetheriver,andnomoretsetseappeared。

  Viewedfromtheflat,reedybasininwhichtheriverthenflowed,thebanksseemedprolongedintoridges,ofthesamewoodedcharacter,twoorthreehundredfeethigh,andstretchedawaytotheN。N。EandN。N。W。

  untiltheyweretwentyorthirtymilesapartTheinterveningspace,nearlyonehundredmilesinlength,withtheLeeambyewindinggentlynearthemiddle,isthetrueBarotsevalleyItbearsacloseresemblancetothevalleyoftheNile,andisinundatedannually,notbyrains,butbytheLeeambye,exactlyasLowerEgyptisfloodedbytheNile。

  ThevillagesoftheBarotsearebuiltonmounds,someofwhicharesaidtohavebeenraisedartificiallybySanturu,aformerchiefoftheBarotse,andduringtheinundationthewholevalleyassumestheappearanceofalargelake,withthevillagesonthemoundslikeislands,justasoccursinEgyptwiththevillagesoftheEgyptians。

  Someportionofthewatersofinundationcomesfromthenorthwest,wheregreatfloodingsalsooccur,butmorecomesfromthenorthandnortheast,descendingthebedoftheLeeambyeitselfTherearebutfewtreesinthisvalley:thosewhichstandonthemoundswerenearlyalltransplantedbySanturuforshadeThesoilisextremelyfertile,andthepeopleareneverinwantofgrain,for,bytakingadvantageofthemoistureoftheinundation,theycantaketwocropsayear。

  TheBarotsearestronglyattachedtothisfertilevalley;theysay,“Herehungerisnotknown。”Therearesomanythingsbesidescornwhichamancanfindinitforfood,thatitisnowondertheydesertfromLinyantitoreturntothisplace。

  Thegreatvalleyisnotputtoatitheoftheuseitmightbe。

  Itiscoveredwithcoarsesucculentgrasses,whichaffordamplepasturageforlargeherdsofcattle;thesethrivewonderfully,andgivemilkcopiouslytotheirownersWhenthevalleyisflooded,thecattlearecompelledtoleaveitandgotothehigherlands,wheretheyfalloffincondition;

  theirreturnisatimeofjoy。

  Itisimpossibletosaywhetherthisvalley,whichcontainssomuchmoisture,wouldraisewheatasthevalleyoftheNiledoesItisprobablytoorich,andwouldmakecornrunentirelytostraw,foronespeciesofgrasswasobservedtwelvefeethigh,withastemasthickasaman’sthumb。

  Atpresentthepasturageisnevereatenoff,thoughtheMakololopossessimmenseherdsofcattle。

  Therearenolargetowns,themoundsonwhichthetownsandvillagesarebuiltbeingallsmall,andthepeoplerequiretoliveapartonaccountoftheircattle。

  ThisvisitwasthefirstSekeletuhadmadetothesepartssinceheattainedthechieftainshipThosewhohadtakenpartwithMpepewereconsequentlyingreatterrorWhenwecametothetownofMpepe’sfather,asheandanothermanhadcounseledMamochisanetoputSekeletutodeathandmarryMpepe,thetwowereledforthandtossedintotheriver。

  NokuanewasagainoneoftheexecutionersWhenIremonstratedagainsthumanbloodbeingshedintheoffhandwayinwhichtheywereproceeding,thecounselorsjustifiedtheiractsbytheevidencegivenbyMamochisane,andcalmlyadded,“YouseewearestillBoers;wearenotyettaught。”

  MpepehadgivenfullpermissiontotheMambarislave-dealerstotradeinalltheBatokaandBashukulompovillagestotheeastofthis。

  Hehadgiventhemcattle,ivory,andchildren,andhadreceivedinreturnalargeblunderbusstobemountedasacannonWhentheslightcircumstanceofmyhavingcoveredthebodyofthechiefwithmyownderangedthewholeconspiracy,theMambari,intheirstockade,wereplacedinveryawkwardcircumstancesItwasproposedtoattackthemanddrivethemoutofthecountryatonce;but,dreadingacommencementofhostilities,Iurgedthedifficultiesofthatcourse,andshowedthatastockadedefendedbyperhapsfortymusketswouldbeaveryseriousaffair。

  “Hungerisstrongenoughforthat。”saidanunder-chief;

  “averygreatfellowishe。”Theythoughtofattackingthembystarvation。

  Asthechiefsufferersincaseofsuchanattackwouldhavebeenthepoorslaveschainedingangs,Iintercededforthem,andtheresultofanintercessionofwhichtheywereignorantwasthattheywereallowedtodepartinpeace。

  Naliele,thecapitaloftheBarotse,isbuiltonamoundwhichwasconstructedartificiallybySanturu,andwashisstore-houseforgrain。

  Hisowncapitalstoodaboutfivehundredyardstothesouthofthat,inwhatisnowthebedoftheriverAllthatremainsofthelargestmoundinthevalleyareafewcubicyardsofearth,toerectwhichcostthewholeofthepeopleofSanturuthelaborofmanyyears。

  Thesamethinghashappenedtoanotherancientsiteofatown,Linangelo,alsoontheleftbankItwouldseem,therefore,thattheriverinthispartofthevalleymustbewearingeastward。

  Nogreatriseoftheriverisrequiredtosubmergethewholevalley;

  ariseoftenfeetabovethepresentlow-watermarkwouldreachthehighestpointiteverattains,asseeninthemarkingsofthebankonwhichstoodSanturu’sancientcapital,andtwoorthreefeetmorewoulddelugeallthevillagesThisneverhappens,thoughthewatersometimescomessonearthefoundationsofthehutsthatthepeoplecannotmoveoutsidethewallsofreedswhichencircletheirvillages。

  WhentheriveriscompressedamongthehighrockybanksnearGonye,itrisessixtyfeet。

  Theinfluenceofthepartialobstructionitmeetswiththereisseeninthemorewindingcourseoftherivernorthof16Deg。;

  andwhentheswellgetspastKatima-molelo,itspreadsoutonthelandsonbothbankstowardSesheke。

  Santuru,atwhoseancientgranarywearestaying,wasagreathunter,andveryfondoftamingwildanimalsHispeople,awareofhistaste,broughttohimeveryyoungantelopetheycouldcatch,and,amongotherthings,twoyounghippopotamiTheseanimalsgamboledintheriverbyday,butneverfailedtoremembertocomeuptoNalielefortheirsuppersofmilkandmealTheywerethewonderofthecountry,tillastranger,happeningtocometovisitSanturu,sawthemreclininginthesun,andspearedoneofthemonthesuppositionthatitwaswild。

  ThesameunluckyaccidenthappenedtooneofthecatsIhadbroughttoSekeletuAstranger,seeingananimalhehadneverviewedbefore,killedit,andbroughtthetrophytothechief,thinkingthathehadmadeaveryremarkablediscovery;wetherebylostthebreedofcats,ofwhich,fromtheswarmsofmice,westoodingreatneed。

  OnmakinginquiriestoascertainwhetherSanturu,theMoloiana,hadeverbeenvisitedbywhitemen,Icouldfindnovestigeofanysuchvisit;*

  thereisnoevidenceofanyofSanturu’speoplehavingeverseenawhitemanbeforethearrivalofMrOswellandmyselfin1851Thepeoplehave,itistrue,nowrittenrecords;butanyremarkableeventhereiscommemoratedinnames,aswasobservedbyParktobethecaseinthecountrieshetraversedTheyearofourarrivalisdignifiedbythenameoftheyearwhenthewhitemencame,orofSebituane’sdeath;

  buttheyprefertheformer,astheyavoid,ifpossible,anydirectreferencetothedepartedAftermywife’sfirstvisit,greatnumbersofchildrenwerenamedMa-Robert,ormotherofRobert,hereldestchild;

  otherswerenamedGun,Horse,Wagon,Monare,Jesus,etc。;

  butthoughournames,andthoseofthenativePortuguesewhocamein1853,wereadopted,thereisnotatraceofanythingofthesorthavinghappenedpreviouslyamongtheBarotse:thevisitofawhitemanissucharemarkableevent,that,hadanytakenplaceduringthelastthreehundredyears,theremusthaveremainedsometraditionofit。

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