第32章
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  Itisthreeorfourhundredfeethigh,andcoveredwithtrees。

  ItsgeographicalpositionisprettyaccuratelylaiddownfromoccultationandotherobservationsImaymentionthatthevalleyonitsnorthernside,namedKandehyorKandehai,isaspicturesqueaspotasistobeseeninthispartofAfricaTheopenglade,surroundedbyforesttreesofvarioushues,hadalittlestreammeanderinginthecentre。

  Aherdofreddish-coloredantelopespallahsstoodononeside,nearalargebaobab,lookingatus,andreadytorunupthehill;

  whilegnus,tsessebes,andzebrasgazedinastonishmentattheintruders。

  Somefedcarelessly,andothersputonthepeculiarairofdispleasurewhichtheseanimalssometimesassumebeforetheyresolveonflight。

  Alargewhiterhinoceroscamealongthebottomofthevalleywithhisslowsaunteringgaitwithoutnoticingus;helookedasifhemeanttoindulgeinamudbathSeveralbuffaloes,withtheirdarkvisages,stoodunderthetreesonthesideoppositetothepallahsItbeingSunday,allwaspeace,and,fromthecircumstancesinwhichourpartywasplaced,wecouldnotbutreflectonthatsecondstageofourexistencewhichwehopewillleadusintoscenesofperfectbeauty。

  IfpardonedinthatfreewaytheBiblepromises,deathwillbeagloriousthing;buttobeconsignedtowaitfortheJudgment-day,withnothingelsetoponderonbutsinswewouldratherforget,isacheerlessprospect。

  OurBushmenwishedtoleaveus,and,astherewasnouseintryingtothwarttheseindependentgentlemen,Ipaidthem,andallowedthemtogo。

  Thepayment,however,actedasacharmonsomestrangerswhohappenedtobepresent,andinducedthemtovolunteertheiraid。

  ThegamehereaboutsisverytameKoodoosandgiraffesstoodgazingatmeasastrangeapparitionwhenIwentoutwiththeBushmen。

  Ononeoccasionalioncameatdaybreak,andwentroundandroundtheoxen。

  Icouldonlygetaglimpseofhimoccasionallyfromthewagon-box;

  but,thoughbarelythirtyyardsoff,IcouldnotgetashotHethenbegantoroaratthetopofhisvoice;buttheoxencontinuingtostandstill,hewassodisgustedthathewentoff,andcontinuedtousehisvoiceforalongtimeinthedistanceIcouldnotseethathehadamane;

  ifhehadnot,theneventhemanelessvarietycanusetheirtongues。

  Weheardothersalsoroar;and,whentheyfoundtheycouldnotfrightentheoxen,theybecameequallyangryThiswecouldobserveintheirtones。

  Aswewentnorththecountrybecameverylovely;manynewtreesappeared;

  thegrasswasgreen,andoftenhigherthanthewagons;thevinesfestoonedthetrees,amongwhichappearedtherealbanian`FicusIndica’,withitsdrop-shoots,andthewilddateandpalmyra,andseveralothertreeswhichwerenewtome;thehollowscontainedlargepatchesofwater。

  Nextcamewater-courses,nowresemblingsmallrivers,twentyyardsbroadandfourfeetdeepThefurtherwewent,thebroaderanddeeperthesebecame;theirbottomscontainedgreatnumbersofdeepholes,madebyelephantswadinginthem;

  inthesetheoxenfloundereddesperately,sothatourwagon-polebroke,compellingustoworkuptothebreastinwaterforthreehoursandahalf;

  yetIsufferednoharm。

  WeatlastcametotheSanshureh,whichpresentedanimpassablebarrier,sowedrewupunderamagnificentbaobab-tree,lat18d4’27“S。,long24d6’20“E。,andresolvedtoexploretheriverforaford。

  ThegreatquantityofwaterwehadpassedthroughwaspartoftheannualinundationoftheChobe;andthis,whichappearedalarge,deepriver,filledinmanypartswithreeds,andhavinghippopotamiinit,isonlyoneofthebranchesbywhichitsendsitssuperabundantwatertothesoutheastFromthehillN’gwaaridgeofhigherlandrunstothenortheast,andboundsitscourseinthatdirection。

  We,beingignorantofthis,wereinthevalley,andtheonlygapinthewholecountrydestituteoftsetseIncompanywiththeBushmenIexploredallthebanksoftheSanshurehtothewesttillwecameintotsetseonthatsideWewadedalongwayamongthereedsinwaterbreastdeep,butalwaysfoundabroad,deepspacefreefromvegetationandunfordable。

  Apeculiarkindoflichen,whichgrowsonthesurfaceofthesoil,becomesdetachedandfloatsonthewater,givingoutaverydisagreeableodor,likesulphuretedhydrogen,insomeofthesestagnantwaters。

  WemadesomanyattemptstogetovertheSanshureh,bothtothewestandeastofthewagon,inthehopeofreachingsomeoftheMakololoontheChobe,thatmyBushmenfriendsbecamequitetiredoftheworkBymeansofpresentsIgotthemtoremainsomedays;butatlasttheyslippedawaybynight,andIwasfaintotakeoneofthestrongestofmystillweakcompanionsandcrosstheriverinapontoon,thegiftofCaptainsCodringtonandWebb。

  Weeachcarriedsomeprovisionsandablanket,andpenetratedabouttwentymilestothewestward,inthehopeofstrikingtheChobe。

  Itwasmuchnearertousinanortherlydirection,butthiswedidnotthenknowTheplain,overwhichwesplashedthewholeofthefirstday,wascoveredwithwaterankledeep,andthickgrasswhichreachedabovethekneesIntheeveningwecametoanimmensewallofreeds,sixoreightfeethigh,withoutanyopeningadmittingofapassageWhenwetriedtoenter,thewateralwaysbecamesodeepthatwewerefaintodesist。

  Weconcludedthatwehadcometothebanksoftheriverwewereinsearchof,sowedirectedourcoursetosometreeswhichappearedinthesouth,inordertogetabedandaviewoftheadjacentlocality。

  Havingshotaleche,andmadeagloriousfire,wegotagoodcupofteaandhadacomfortablenightWhilecollectingwoodthatevening,Ifoundabird’snestconsistingofliveleavessewntogetherwiththreadsofthespider’swebNothingcouldexceedtheairinessofthisprettycontrivance;thethreadshadbeenpushedthroughsmallpuncturesandthickenedtoresembleaknot。

  IunfortunatelylostitThiswasthesecondnestIhadseenresemblingthatofthetailor-birdofIndia。

  Nextmorning,byclimbingthehighesttrees,wecouldseeafinelargesheetofwater,butsurroundedonallsidesbythesameimpenetrablebeltofreedsThisisthebroadpartoftheRiverChobe,andiscalledZabesaTwotree-coveredislandsseemedtobemuchnearertothewaterthantheshoreonwhichwewere,sowemadeanattempttogettothemfirstItwasnotthereedsalonewehadtopassthrough;apeculiarserratedgrass,whichatcertainanglescutthehandslikearazor,wasmingledwiththereed,andtheclimbingconvolvulus,withstalkswhichfeltasstrongaswhipcord,boundthemasstogetherWefeltlikepigmiesinit,andoftentheonlywaywecouldgetonwasbybothofusleaningagainstapartandbendingitdowntillwecouldstanduponitTheperspirationstreamedoffourbodies,andasthesunrosehigh,therebeingnoventilationamongthereeds,theheatwasstifling,andthewater,whichwasuptotheknees,feltagreeablyrefreshingAftersomehours’toilwereachedoneoftheislandsHerewemetanoldfriend,thebramble-bush。

  Mystrongmoleskinswerequitewornthroughattheknees,andtheleathertrowsersofmycompanionweretornandhislegsbleeding。

  Tearingmyhandkerchiefintwo,Itiedthepiecesroundmyknees,andthenencounteredanotherdifficultyWewerestillfortyorfiftyyardsfromtheclearwater,butnowwewereopposedbygreatmassesofpapyrus,whicharelikepalmsinminiature,eightortenfeethigh,andaninchandahalfindiameterThesewerelacedtogetherbytwiningconvolvulus,sostronglythattheweightofbothofuscouldnotmakewayintotheclearwaterAtlastwefortunatelyfoundapassagepreparedbyahippopotamusEagerassoonaswereachedtheislandtolookalongthevistatoclearwater,Isteppedinandfoundittookmeatonceuptotheneck。

  Returningnearlywornout,weproceededupthebankoftheChobetillwecametothepointofdepartureofthebranchSanshureh;wethenwentintheoppositedirection,ordowntheChobe,thoughfromthehighesttreeswecouldseenothingbutonevastexpanseofreed,withhereandthereatreeontheislandsThiswasahardday’swork;andwhenwecametoadesertedBayeiyehutonanant-hill,notabitofwoodoranythingelsecouldbegotforafireexceptthegrassandsticksofthedwellingitself。

  Idreadedthe“Tampans“,socommoninalloldhuts;butoutsideofitwehadthousandsofmosquitoes,andcolddewbegantobedeposited,sowewerefaintocrawlbeneathitsshelter。

  Wewereclosetothereeds,andcouldlistentothestrangesoundswhichareoftenheardthereBydayIhadseenwater-snakesputtinguptheirheadsandswimmingaboutThereweregreatnumbersofotters`Lutrainunguis’,FCuvier,whichhavemadelittlespoorsallovertheplainsinsearchofthefishes,amongthetallgrassofthesefloodedprairies;curiousbirds,too,jerkedandwriggledamongthesereedymasses,andweheardhuman-likevoicesandunearthlysounds,withsplash,guggle,jupp,asifrarefunweregoingonintheiruncouthhauntsAtonetimesomethingcamenearus,makingasplashinglikethatofacanoeorhippopotamus;

  thinkingittobetheMakololo,wegotup,listened,andshouted;

  thendischargedagunseveraltimes;butthenoisecontinuedwithoutintermissionforanhourAfteradamp,coldnightwesetto,earlyinthemorning,atourworkofexploringagain,butleftthepontooninordertolightenourlaborTheant-hillsarehereveryhigh,somethirtyfeet,andofabasesobroadthattreesgrowonthem;

  whilethelands,annuallyflooded,bearnothingbutgrass。

  Fromoneoftheseant-hillswediscoveredaninlettotheChobe;

  and,havinggonebackforthepontoon,welaunchedourselvesonadeepriver,herefromeightytoonehundredyardswideIgavemycompanionstrictinjunctionstostickbythepontoonincaseahippopotamusshouldlookatus;norwasthiscautionunnecessary,foronecameupatoursideandmadeadesperateplungeoff。

  WehadpassedoverhimThewavehemadecausedthepontoontoglidequicklyawayfromhim。

  WepaddledonfrommiddaytillsunsetTherewasnothingbutawallofreedoneachbank,andwesaweveryprospectofspendingasupperlessnightinourfloat;butjustastheshorttwilightofthesepartswascommencing,weperceivedonthenorthbankthevillageofMoremi,oneoftheMakololo,whoseacquaintanceIhadmadeonourformervisit,andwhowasnowlocatedontheislandMahontalat17d58’S。,long24d6’E。。

  Thevillagerslookedaswemaysupposepeopledowhoseeaghost,andintheirfigurativewayofspeakingsaid,“Hehasdroppedamongusfromtheclouds,yetcameridingonthebackofahippopotamus!

  WeMakololothoughtnoonecouldcrosstheChobewithoutourknowledge,butherehedropsamonguslikeabird。”

  Nextdaywereturnedincanoesacrossthefloodedlands,andfoundthat,inourabsence,themenhadallowedthecattletowanderintoaverysmallpatchofwoodtothewestcontainingthetsetse;

  thiscarelessnesscostmetenfinelargeoxenAfterremainingafewdays,someoftheheadmenoftheMakololocamedownfromLinyanti,withalargepartyofBarotse,totakeusacrosstheriver。

  Thistheydidinfinestyle,swimminganddivingamongtheoxenmorelikealligatorsthanmen,andtakingthewagonstopiecesandcarryingthemacrossonanumberofcanoeslashedtogether。

  Wewerenowamongfriends;sogoingaboutthirtymilestothenorth,inordertoavoidthestillfloodedlandsonthenorthoftheChobe,weturnedwestwardtowardLinyantilat18d17’20“S。,long23d50’9“E。,wherewearrivedonthe23dofMay,1853ThisisthecapitaltownoftheMakololo,andonlyashortdistancefromourwagon-standof1851

  lat18d20’S。,long23d50’E。。

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