第28章
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  Attheeasternendthesehillshavecuriousfungoidorcup-shapedhollows,ofasizewhichsuggeststheideaofcratersWithinthesearemassesoftherockcrystallizedinthecolumnarformofthisformation。

  Thetopsofthecolumnsarequitedistinct,ofthehexagonalform,likethebottomofthecellsofahoneycomb,buttheyarenotpartedfromeachotherasintheCaveofFingalInmanypartsthelava-streamsmayberecognized,fortheretherockisrentandsplitineverydirection,butnosoilisyetfoundintheintersticesWhenweweresittingintheevening,afterahotday,itwasquitecommontohearthesemassesofbasaltsplitandfallamongeachotherwiththepeculiarringingsoundwhichmakespeoplebelievethatthisrockcontainsmuchironSeverallargemasses,insplittingthusbythecoldactingsuddenlyonpartsexpandedbytheheatoftheday,haveslippeddownthesidesofthehills,and,impingingagainsteachother,haveformedcavitiesinwhichtheBakaatookrefugeagainsttheirenemies。

  Thenumerouschinksandcranniesleftbythesehugefragmentsmadeitquiteimpossiblefortheirenemiestosmokethemout,aswasdonebytheBoerstothepeopleofMankopane。

  Thismassofbasalt,aboutsixmileslong,hastilteduptherocksonboththeeastandwest;theseupheavedrocksaretheancientsilurianschistswhichformedthebottomofthegreatprimaevalvalley,and,likealltherecentvolcanicrocksofthiscountry,haveahotfountainintheirvicinity,namely,thatofSerinane。

  InpassingthroughthesehillsonourwaynorthweenterapassnamedManakalongwe,orUnicorn’sPassTheunicornhereisalargeediblecaterpillar,withanerect,horn-liketail。

  ThepasswasalsocalledPoraporaorgurglingofwater,fromastreamhavingrunthroughitThescenemusthavebeenverydifferentinformertimesfromwhatitisnowThisispartoftheRiverMahalapi,whichso-calledriverscarcelymeritsthename,anymorethanthemeadowsofEdinburghdeservethetitleofNorthLoch。

  ThesehillsarethelastweshallseeformonthsThecountrybeyondconsistedoflargepatchesoftrap-coveredtufa,havinglittlesoilorvegetationexcepttuftsofgrassandwait-a-bitthorns,inthemidstofextensivesandy,grass-coveredplains。

  Theseyellow-colored,grassyplains,withmoretloaandmahatlabushes,formquiteacharacteristicfeatureofthecountryTheyellowordun-colorprevailsduringagreatpartoftheyearTheBakwainhillsareanexceptiontotheusualflatsurface,fortheyarecoveredwithgreentreestotheirtops,andthevalleysareoftenofthemostlovelygreen。

  Thetreesarelargertoo,andeventheplainsoftheBakwaincountrycontaintreesinsteadofbushesIfyoulooknorthfromthehillswearenowleaving,thecountrypartakesofthislattercharacter。

  Itappearsasifitwereaflatcoveredwithaforestofordinary-sizedtreesfrom20to30feethigh,butwhenyoutraveloverittheyarenotsocloselyplantedbutthatawagonwithcaremaybeguidedamongthemThegrassgrowsintuftsofthesizeofone’shat,withbaresoftsandbetweenNowhereherehaveweanapproachtoEnglishlawns,orthepleasingappearanceofEnglishgreensward。

  InnopartofthiscountrycouldEuropeangrainbecultivatedwithoutirrigationThenativesallcultivatethedourrhaorholcussorghum,maize,pumpkins,melons,cucumbers,anddifferentkindsofbeans;

  andtheyareentirelydependentforthegrowthoftheseonrains。

  Theirinstrumentofcultureisthehoe,andthechieflaborfallsonthefemaleportionofthecommunityInthisrespecttheBechuanascloselyresembletheCaffresThemenengageinhunting,milkthecows,andhavetheentirecontrolofthecattle;

  theypreparetheskins,maketheclothing,andinmanyrespectsmaybeconsideredanationoftailors。

  WhenatSekomi’swegenerallyhaveheardhispraisessoundedbyamanwhorisesatbreakofday,anduttersatthetopofhisvoicetheorationwhichthatrulerissaidtohavecomposedathisboguera。

  Thisrepetitionofhis“leina“,ororation,issopleasingtoachief,thathegenerallysendsahandsomepresenttothemanwhodoesit。

  JANUARY28THPassingontoLetloche,abouttwentymilesbeyondtheBamangwato,wefoundafinesupplyofwater。

  Thisisapointofsomuchinterestinthatcountrythatthefirstquestionweaskofpassersbyis,“Haveyouhadwater?”thefirstinquiryanativeputstoafellow-countrymanis,“Whereistherain?”and,thoughtheyarebynomeansanuntruthfulnation,theanswergenerallyis,“Idon’tknowthereisnonewearekilledwithhungerandbythesun。”

  Ifnewsisaskedfor,theycommencewith,“Thereisnonews:

  Iheardsomeliesonly。”andthentellalltheyknow。

  ThisspotwasMrGordonCumming’sfurtheststationnorth。

  OurhouseatKolobenghavingbeenquiteinthehunting-country,rhinocerosandbuffaloesseveraltimesrushedpast,andIwasabletoshootthelattertwicefromourowndoorWewerefavoredbyvisitsfromthisfamoushunterduringeachofthefiveyearsofhiswarfarewithwildanimalsManyEnglishgentlemenfollowingthesamepursuitspaidtheirguidesandassistantssopunctuallythatinmakingarrangementsforthemwehadtobecarefulthatfourdidnotgowheretwoonlywerewanted:theyknewsowellthatanEnglishmanwouldpaythattheydependedimplicitlyonhiswordofhonor,andnotonlywouldtheygoandhuntforfiveorsixmonthsinthenorth,enduringallthehardshipsofthattryingmodeoflife,withlittleelsebutmeatofgametosubsiston,buttheywillinglywentsevenhundredoreighthundredmilestoGraham’sTown,receivingforwagesonlyamusketworthfifteenshillings。

  Nooneeverdeceivedthemexceptoneman;andasIbelievedthathewasafflictedwithaslightdegreeoftheinsanityofgreediness,IupheldthehonoroftheEnglishnamebypayinghisdebts。

  AstheguidesofMrCummingwerefurnishedthroughmyinfluence,andusuallygotsomestrictchargesastotheirbehaviorbeforeparting,lookinguponmeinthelightofafather,theyalwayscametogivemeanaccountoftheirservice,andtoldmostofthosehuntingadventureswhichhavesincebeengiventotheworld,beforewehadthepleasureofhearingourfriendrelatethemhimselfbyourownfireside。

  Ihadthusatolerablygoodopportunityoftestingtheiraccuracy,andIhavenohesitationinsayingthatforthosewholovethatsortofthingMrCumming’sbookconveysatruthfulideaofSouthAfricanhunting。

  Somethingsinitrequireexplanation,butthenumbersofanimalssaidtohavebeenmetwithandkilledarebynomeansimprobable,consideringtheamountoflargegametheninthecountry。

  Twoothergentlemenhuntinginthesameregiondestroyedinoneseasonnofewerthanseventy-eightrhinocerosesaloneSportsmen,however,wouldnotnowfindanequalnumber,forasgunsareintroducedamongthetribesallthesefineanimalsmeltawaylikesnowinspring。

  Inthemoreremotedistricts,wherefire-armshavenotyetbeenintroduced,withthesingleexceptionoftherhinoceros,thegameistobefoundinnumbersmuchgreaterthanMrCummingeversawThetsetseis,however,aninsuperablebarriertohuntingwithhorsesthere,andEuropeanscandonothingonfootThestepoftheelephantwhenchargingthehunter,thoughapparentlynotquick,issolongthatthepaceequalsthespeedofagoodhorseatacanterAyoungsportsman,nomatterhowgreatamongpheasants,foxes,andhounds,woulddowelltopausebeforeresolvingtobravefeverfortheexcitementofriskingsuchaterrificcharge;

  thescreamortrumpetingofthisenormousbrutewheninfuriatedismorelikewhattheshriekofaFrenchsteam-whistlewouldbetoamanstandingonthedangerouspartofarail-roadthananyotherearthlysound:

  ahorseunusedtoitwillsometimesstandshiveringinsteadoftakinghisrideroutofdangerIthashappenedoftenthatthepooranimal’slegsdotheirdutysobadlythathefallsandcauseshisridertobetroddenintoamummy;or,losinghispresenceofmind,theridermayallowthehorsetodashunderatreeandcrackhiscraniumagainstabranchAsonechargefromanelephanthasmadeembryoNimrodsbidafinaladieutothechase,incipientGordonCummingsmighttrytheirnervesbystandingonrailwaystilltheengineswerewithinafewyardsofthemHuntingelephantsonfootwouldbenotlessdangerous,*

  unlesstheCeylonmodeofkillingthembyoneshotcouldbefollowed:

  ithasneverbeentriedinAfrica。

  *Sincewritingtheabovestatement,ithasreceivedconfirmationinthereporteddeathofMrWahlbergwhilehuntingelephantsonfootatLakeNgami。

  AdvancingtosomewellsbeyondLetloche,ataspotnamedKanne,wefoundthemcarefullyhedgedroundbythepeopleofaBakalaharivillagesituatednearthespotWehadthensixtymilesofcountryinfrontwithoutwater,andverydistressingfortheoxen,asitisgenerallydeepsoftsandThereisonesucking-place,aroundwhichwerecongregatedgreatnumbersofBushwomenwiththeiregg-shellsandreeds。

  Mathuluanenowcontainednowater,andMotlatsaonlyasmallsupply,sowesenttheoxenacrossthecountrytothedeepwellNkauane,andhalfwerelostonthewayWhenfoundatlasttheyhadbeenfivewholedayswithoutwaterVerylargenumbersofelandsweremetwithasusual,thoughtheyseldomcangetasipofdrink。

  Manyoftheplainsherehavelargeexpansesofgrasswithouttrees,butyouseldomseeatreelesshorizonTheostrichisgenerallyseenquietlyfeedingonsomespotwherenoonecanapproachhimwithoutbeingdetectedbyhiswaryeyeAsthewagonmovesalongfartothewindwardhethinksitisintendingtocircumventhim,soherushesupamileorsofromtheleeward,andsoneartothefrontoxenthatonesometimesgetsashotatthesillybirdWhenhebeginstorunallthegameinsightfollowhisexampleIhaveseenthisfollytakenadvantageofwhenhewasfeedingquietlyinavalleyopenatbothends。

  Anumberofmenwouldcommencerunning,asiftocutoffhisretreatfromtheendthroughwhichthewindcame;andalthoughhehadthewholecountryhundredsofmilesbeforehimbygoingtotheotherend,onhemadlyrushedtogetpastthemen,andsowasspearedHeneverswervesfromthecourseheonceadopts,butonlyincreaseshisspeed。

  Whentheostrichisfeedinghispaceisfromtwentytotwenty-twoinches;

  whenwalking,butnotfeeding,itistwenty-sixinches;

  andwhenterrified,asinthecasenoticed,itisfromelevenandahalftothirteenandevenfourteenfeetinlengthOnlyinonecasewasIatallsatisfiedofbeingabletocounttherateofspeedbyastop-watch,and,ifIamnotmistaken,therewerethirtyintenseconds;

  generallyone’seyecannomorefollowthelegsthanitcanthespokesofacarriage-wheelinrapidmotionIfwetaketheabovenumber,andtwelvefeetstrideastheaveragepace,wehaveaspeedoftwenty-sixmilesanhourItcannotbeverymuchabovethat,andisthereforeslowerthanarailwaylocomotiveTheyaresometimesshotbythehorsemanmakingacrosscuttotheirundeviatingcourse,butfewEnglishmeneversucceedinkillingthem。

  Theostrichbeginstolayhereggsbeforeshehasfixedonaspotforanest,whichisonlyahollowafewinchesdeepinthesand,andaboutayardindiameterSolitaryeggs,namedbytheBechuanas“lesetla“,arethusfoundlyingforsakenalloverthecountry,andbecomeapreytothejackal。

  Sheseemsaversetoriskingaspotforanest,andoftenlayshereggsinthatofanotherostrich,sothatasmanyasforty-fivehavebeenfoundinonenestSomeeggscontainsmallconcretionsofthematterwhichformstheshell,asoccursalsointheeggofthecommonfowl:

  thishasgivenrisetotheideaofstonesintheeggsBothmaleandfemaleassistintheincubations;butthenumbersoffemalesbeingalwaysgreatest,itisprobablethatcasesoccurinwhichthefemaleshavetheentirecharge。

  Severaleggslieoutofthenest,andarethoughttobeintendedasfoodforthefirstofthenewly-hatchedbroodtilltherestcomeoutandenablethewholetostartinquestoffoodIhaveseveraltimesseennewly-hatchedyounginchargeofthecock,whomadeaverygoodattemptatappearinglameintheploverfashion,inordertodrawofftheattentionofpursuersTheyoungsquatdownandremainimmovablewhentoosmalltorunfar,butattainawonderfuldegreeofspeedwhenaboutthesizeofcommonfowlsItcannotbeassertedthatostrichesarepolygamous,thoughtheyoftenappeartobeso。

  Whencaughttheyareeasilytamed,butareofnouseintheirdomesticatedstate。

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