第18章
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  Ourroutetothenorthlaynearthecentreofthecone-shapedmassoflandwhichconstitutesthepromontoryoftheCapeIfwesupposethisconetobedividedintothreezonesorlongitudinalbands,wefindeachpresentingdistinctpeculiaritiesofclimate,physicalappearanceandpopulation。

  ThesearemoremarkedbeyondthanwithinthecolonyAtsomepointsonedistrictseemstobecontinuedinandtomergeintotheother,butthegeneraldissimilaritywarrantsthedivision,asanaidtomemory。

  Theeasternzoneisoftenfurnishedwithmountains,wellwoodedwithevergreensucculenttrees,onwhichneitherfirenordroughtscanhavethesmallesteffect`Strelitzia’,`Zamiahorrida’,`Portulacariaafra’,`Schotiaspeciosa’,`Euphorbias’,and`Aloesarborescens’;

  anditsseaboardgorgesarecladwithgigantictimber。

  Itisalsocomparativelywellwateredwithstreamsandflowingrivers。

  Theannualsupplyofrainisconsiderable,andtheinhabitantsCaffresorZulusaretall,muscular,andwellmade;

  theyareshrewd,energetic,andbrave;altogethertheymeritthecharactergiventhembymilitaryauthorities,ofbeing“magnificentsavages“。

  Theirsplendidphysicaldevelopmentandformofskullshowthat,butfortheblackskinandwoollyhair,theywouldtakerankamongtheforemostEuropeans。

  Thenextdivision,thatwhichembracesthecentreofthecontinent,canscarcelybecalledhilly,forwhathillsthereareareverylow。

  Itconsistsforthemostpartofextensive,slightlyundulatingplains。

  Therearenoloftymountains,butfewsprings,andstillfewerflowingstreamsRainisfarfromabundant,anddroughtsmaybeexpectedeveryfewyearsWithoutartificialirrigationnoEuropeangraincanberaised,andtheinhabitantsBechuanas,thoughevidentlyofthesamestock,originally,withthosealreadymentioned,andcloselyresemblingtheminbeinganagriculturalaswellasapastoralpeople,areacomparativelytimidrace,andinferiortotheCaffresinphysicaldevelopment。

  Thewesterndivisionisstillmorelevelthanthemiddleone,beingruggedonlynearthecoastItincludesthegreatplaincalledtheKalahariDesert,whichisremarkableforlittlewaterandveryconsiderablevegetation。

  Thereason,probably,whysolittlerainfallsonthisextensiveplainisthattheprevailingwindsofmostoftheinteriorcountryareeasterly,withalittlesouthingThemoisturetakenupbytheatmospherefromtheIndianOceanisdepositedontheeasternhillyslope;

  andwhenthemovingmassofairreachesitsgreatestelevation,itisthenonthevergeofthegreatvalley,or,asinthecaseoftheKalahari,thegreatheatedinlandplains;there,meetingwiththerarefiedairofthathot,drysurface,theascendingheatgivesitgreatercapacityforretainingallitsremaininghumidity,andfewshowerscanbegiventothemiddleandwesternlandsinconsequenceoftheincreasedhygrometricpower。

  Thisisthesamephenomenon,onagiganticscale,asthatwhichtakesplaceonTableMountain,attheCape,inwhatiscalledthespreadingofthe“table-cloth“Thesoutheastwindcausesamassofair,equaltothediameterofthemountain,suddenlytoascendatleastthreethousandfeet;thedilatationproducedbyaltitude,withitsattendantcold,causestheimmediateformationofacloudonthesummit;thewaterintheatmospherebecomesvisible;

  successivemassesofgliding-upandpassing-overaircausethecontinualformationofclouds,butthetopofthevaporymass,or“table-cloth“,islevel,andseeminglymotionless;ontheleeside,however,thethickvolumesofvaporcurloveranddescend,butwhentheyreachthepointbelow,wheregreaterdensityandhighertemperatureimpartenlargedcapacityforcarryingwater,theyentirelydisappear。

  Nowif,insteadofahollowontheleesideofTableMountain,wehadanelevatedheatedplain,thecloudswhichcurloverthatside,anddisappearastheydoatpresentwhena“southeaster“isblowing,mightdepositsomemoistureonthewindwardascentandtop;

  buttheheatwouldthenimparttheincreasedcapacitytheairnowreceivesatthelowerlevelinitsdescenttoleeward,and,insteadofanextendedcountrywithafloraofthe`Disagrandiflora’,`gladiolus’,`rushes’,and`lichens’,whichnowappearonTableMountain,weshouldhaveonlythehardyvegetationoftheKalahari。

  WhythereshouldbesomuchvegetationontheKalaharimaybeexplainedbythegeologicalformationofthecountryThereisarimorfringeofancientrocksroundagreatcentralvalley,which,dippinginward,formabasin,thebottomofwhichiscomposedoftheoldestsilurianrocks。

  Thisbasinhasbeenburstthroughandfilledupinmanypartsbyeruptivetrapsandbreccias,whichoftenbearintheirsubstancesangularfragmentsofthemoreancientrocks,asshowninthefossilstheycontainNow,thoughlargeareashavebeensodislocatedthatbutlittletraceoftheoriginalvalleyformationappears,itishighlyprobablethatthebasinshapeprevailsoverlargetractsofthecountry;andasthestrataontheslopes,wheremostoftherainfalls,dipintowardthecentre,theyprobablyguidewaterbeneaththeplainsbutillsuppliedwithmoisturefromtheclouds。

  Thephenomenonofstagnantfountainsbecomingbyanewanddeeperoutletnever-failingstreamsmaybeconfirmatoryoftheviewthatwaterisconveyedfromthesidesofthecountryintothebottomofthecentralvalley;

  anditisnotbeyondtheboundsofpossibilitythatthewonderfulriversysteminthenorth,which,ifnativeinformationbecorrect,causesaconsiderableincreaseofwaterinthespringscalledMatlomagan-yanatheLinks,extendsitsfertilizinginfluencebeneaththeplainsoftheKalahari。

  Thepeculiarformationofthecountrymayexplainwhythereissuchadifferenceinthevegetationbetweenthe20thand30thparallelsoflatitudeinSouthAfricaandthesamelatitudesinCentralAustraliaThewantofvegetationisastrueofsomepartstoointhecentreofSouthAmericaasofAustralia;

  andthecauseofthedifferenceholdsoutaprobabilityforthesuccessofartesianwellsinextensivetractsofAfricanowunpeopledsolelyonaccountofthewantofsurfacewaterWemaybeallowedtospeculatealittleatleastonthefactofmuchgreatervegetation,which,fromwhateversourceitcomes,presentsforSouthAfricaprospectsoffuturegreatnesswhichwecannothopeforinCentralAustraliaAstheinteriordistrictsoftheCapeColonyaredailybecomingofhighervalue,offeringtohonestindustryafairremunerationforcapital,andhavingaclimateunequaledinsalubrityforconsumptivepatients,IshouldunhesitatinglyrecommendanyfarmeratallafraidofthatcomplaintinhisfamilytotrythiscolonyWiththemeansofeducationalreadypossessed,andtheonwardandupwardmovementoftheCapepopulation,heneedentertainnoapprehensionsofhisfamilysinkingintobarbarism。

  Therouteweatthistimefollowedranalongthemiddle,orskirtedthewesternzonebeforealludedto,untilwereachedthelatitudeofLakeNgami,whereatotallydifferentcountrybegins。

  Whileinthecolony,wepassedthroughdistrictsinhabitedbythedescendantsofDutchandFrenchrefugeeswhohadfledfromreligiouspersecutionThoselivingnearthecapitaldifferbutlittlefromthemiddleclassesinEnglishcounties,andaredistinguishedbypublicspiritandgeneralintelligence;whilethosesituatedfarfromthecentresofcivilizationarelessinformed,butareabodyoffrugal,industrious,andhospitablepeasantry。

  AmostefficientsystemofpublicinstructionwasestablishedinthetimeofGovernorSirGeorgeNapier,onaplandrawnupinagreatmeasurebythataccomplishedphilosopher,SirJohnHerschel。

  Thesystemhadtocontendwithlesssectarianrancorthanelsewhere;

  indeed,untilquiterecently,thatspirit,exceptinamildform,wasunknown。

  ThepopulationheredescribedoughtnottobeconfoundedwithsomeBoerswhofledfromBritishruleonaccountoftheemancipationoftheirHottentotslaves,andperhapsneverwouldhavebeensohadnoteverynowandthensomeRipVanWinklestartedforthattheCapetojustifyinthepublicprintsthedeedsofbloodandslave-huntinginthefarinteriorItisthereforenottobewonderedatifthewholeraceisconfoundedandheldinlowestimationbythosewhodonotknowtherealcompositionoftheCapecommunity。

  PopulationamongtheBoersincreasesrapidly;theymarrysoon,areseldomsterile,andcontinuetohavechildrenlate。

  IoncemetaworthymatronwhosehusbandthoughtitrighttoimitatetheconductofAbrahamwhileSarahwasbarren;sheevidentlyagreedintheproprietyofthemeasure,forshewaspleasedtohearthechildrenbyamotherofwhathasbeenthoughtaninferiorraceaddressherastheirmotherOrphansareneverallowedtoremainlongdestitute;

  andinstancesarefrequentinwhichatender-heartedfarmerhasadoptedafatherlesschild,andwhenitcameofageportioneditashisown。

  TwocenturiesoftheSouthAfricanclimatehavenothadmucheffectuponthephysicalconditionoftheBoersTheyareashadedarker,orratherruddier,thanEuropeans,andarenevercadaverous-looking,asdescendantsofEuropeansaresaidtobeelsewhere。

  Thereisatendencytothedevelopmentofsteatopyga,socharacteristicofArabsandotherAfricantribes;anditisprobablethattheinteriorBoersinanothercenturywillbecomeincolorwhatthelearnedimagineourprogenitors,AdamandEve,tohavebeen。

  Thepartsofthecolonythroughwhichwepassedwereofsterileaspect;

  and,asthepresentwinterhadbeenprecededbyaseveredrought,manyfarmershadlosttwothirdsoftheirstockThelandscapewasuninviting;thehills,destituteoftrees,wereofadarkbrowncolor,andthescantyvegetationontheplainsmademefeelthattheydeservedthenameofDesertmorethantheKalahariWhenfirsttakenpossessionof,thesepartsaresaidtohavebeencoveredwithacoatingofgrass,butthathasdisappearedwiththeantelopeswhichfeduponit,andacropofmesembryanthemumsandcrassulasoccupiesitsplace。

  Itiscurioustoobservehow,innature,organizationsthemostdissimilararemutuallydependentoneachotherfortheirperpetuation。

  Heretheoriginalgrassesweredependentfordisseminationonthegrass-feedinganimals,whichscatteredtheseeds。

  When,bythedeathoftheantelopes,nofreshsowingwasmade,theAfricandroughtsprovedtoomuchforthisformofvegetation。

  ButeventhiscontingencywasforeseenbytheOmniscientOne;

  for,aswemaynowobserveintheKalahariDesert,anotherfamilyofplants,themesembryanthemums,stoodreadytoneutralizetheariditywhichmustotherwisehavefollowedThisfamilyofplantspossessesseed-vesselswhichremainfirmlyshutontheircontentswhilethesoilishotanddry,andthuspreservethevegetativepowerintactduringthehighestheatofthetorridsun;butwhenrainfalls,theseed-vesselopensandshedsitscontentsjustwhenthereisthegreatestprobabilityoftheirvegetatingInotherplantsheatanddroughtcausetheseed-vesselstoburstandshedtheircharge。

  Oneofthisfamilyisedible`Mesembryanthemumedule’;anotherpossessesatuberousroot,whichmaybeeatenraw;andallarefurnishedwiththick,fleshyleaves,havingporescapableofimbibingandretainingmoisturefromaverydryatmosphereandsoil,sothat,ifaleafisbrokenduringaperiodofthegreatestdrought,itshowsabundantcirculatingsap。

  Theplantsofthisfamilyarefoundmuchfarthernorth,butthegreatabundanceofthegrassespreventsthemfrommakinganyshow。

  There,however,theystandreadytofillupanygapwhichmayoccurinthepresentprevailingvegetation;andshouldthegrassesdisappear,animallifewouldnotnecessarilybedestroyed,becauseareservesupply,equivalenttoafreshactofcreativepower,hasbeenprovided。

  Oneofthisfamily,`Mturbiniforme’,issocoloredastoblendinwellwiththehueofthesoilandstonesaroundit;anda`gryllus’ofthesamecolorfeedsonitInthecaseoftheinsect,thepeculiarcolorisgivenascompensationforthedeficiencyofthepowersofmotiontoenableittoeludethenoticeofbirdsThecontinuationofthespeciesisheretheendinview。

  Inthecaseoftheplantthesamedeviceisadoptedforasortofdoubleend,viz。,perpetuationoftheplantbyhidingitfromanimals,withtheviewthatultimatelyitsextensiveappearancewillsustainthatrace。

  Asthisnewvegetationisbetteradaptedforsheepandgoatsinadrycountrythangrass,theBoerssupplantthelatterbyimitatingtheprocessbywhichgraminivorousantelopeshavesoabundantlydisseminatedtheseedofgrassesAfewwagon-loadsofmesembryanthemumplants,inseed,arebroughttoafarmcoveredwithascantycropofcoarsegrass,andplacedonaspottowhichthesheephaveaccessintheevenings。

  Astheyeatalittleeverynight,theseedsaredroppedoverthegrazinggroundsinthissimpleway,witharegularitywhichcouldnotbematchedexceptatthecostofanimmenseamountoflabor。

  Theplacebecomesinthecourseofafewyearsasheep-farm,astheseanimalsthriveonsuchherbageAsalreadymentioned,someplantsofthisfamilyarefurnishedwithanadditionalcontrivanceforwithstandingdroughts,viz。,oblongtubers,which,burieddeepenoughbeneaththesoilforcompleteprotectionfromthescorchingsun,serveasreservoirsofsapandnutrimentduringthoserainlessperiodswhichrecurperpetuallyineventhemostfavoredspotsofAfricaIhaveadvertedtothispeculiarityasoftenseeninthevegetationoftheDesert;

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