TofulfilthisoathappearstohavebeenShongi’schiefmotiveforgoingtoEngland；andwhenthereitwashissoleobject。Presentswerevaluedonlyastheycouldbeconvertedintoarms；ofthearts，thosealoneinterestedhimwhichwereconnectedwiththemanufactureofarms。WhenatSydney，Shongi，byastrangecoincidence，metthehostilechiefoftheThamesRiveratthehouseofMr。Marsden：theirconductwasciviltoeachother；butShongitoldhimthatwhenagaininNewZealandhewouldneverceasetocarrywarintohiscountry。Thechallengewasaccepted；andShongionhisreturnfulfilledthethreattotheutmostletter。ThetribeontheThamesRiverwasutterlyoverthrown，andthechieftowhomthechallengehadbeengivenwashimselfkilled。Shongi，althoughharbouringsuchdeepfeelingsofhatredandrevenge，isdescribedashavingbeenagood-naturedperson。
IntheeveningIwentwithCaptainFitzRoyandMr。Baker，oneofthemissionaries，topayavisittoKororadika：wewanderedaboutthevillage，andsawandconversedwithmanyofthepeople，bothmen，women，andchildren。
LookingattheNewZealander，onenaturallycompareshimwiththeTahitian；
bothbelongingtothesamefamilyofmankind。Thecomparison，however，tellsheavilyagainsttheNewZealander。Hemay，perhapsbesuperiorinenergy，butineveryotherrespecthischaracterisofamuchlowerorder。
Oneglanceattheirrespectiveexpressions，bringsconvictiontothemindthatoneisasavage，theotheracivilizedman。ItwouldbevaintoseekinthewholeofNewZealandapersonwiththefaceandmienoftheoldTahitianchiefUtamme。Nodoubttheextraordinarymannerinwhichtattooingisherepractised，givesadisagreeableexpressiontotheircountenances。
Thecomplicatedbutsymmetricalfigurescoveringthewholeface，puzzleandmisleadanunaccustomedeye：itismoreoverprobable，thatthedeepincisions，bydestroyingtheplayofthesuperficialmuscles，giveanairofrigidinflexibility。But，besidesthis，thereisatwinklingintheeye，whichcannotindicateanythingbutcunningandferocity。Theirfiguresaretallandbulky；butnotcomparableinelegancewiththoseoftheworking-
classesinTahiti。
Buttheirpersonsandhousesarefilthilydirtyandoffensive：theideaofwashingeithertheirbodiesortheirclothesneverseemstoentertheirheads。Isawachief，whowaswearingashirtblackandmattedwithfilth，andwhenaskedhowitcametobesodirty，hereplied，withsurprise，“Donotyouseeitisanoldone？”Someofthemenhaveshirts；butthecommondressisoneortwolargeblankets，generallyblackwithdirt，whicharethrownovertheirshouldersinaveryinconvenientandawkwardfashion。
AfewoftheprincipalchiefshavedecentsuitsofEnglishclothes；buttheseareonlywornongreatoccasions。
December23rd——AtaplacecalledWaimate，aboutfifteenmilesfromtheBayofIslands，andmidwaybetweentheeasternandwesterncoasts，themissionarieshavepurchasedsomelandforagriculturalpurposes。I
hadbeenintroducedtotheRev。W。Williams，who，uponmyexpressingawish，invitedmetopayhimavisitthere。Mr。Bushby，theBritishresident，offeredtotakemeinhisboatbyacreek，whereIshouldseeaprettywaterfall，andbywhichmeansmywalkwouldbeshortened。Helikewiseprocuredformeaguide。
Uponaskinganeighbouringchieftorecommendaman，thechiefhimselfofferedtogo；buthisignoranceofthevalueofmoneywassocomplete，thatatfirstheaskedhowmanypoundsIwouldgivehim，butafterwardswaswellcontentedwithtwodollars。WhenIshowedthechiefaverysmallbundle，whichIwantedcarried，itbecameabsolutelynecessaryforhimtotakeaslave。Thesefeelingsofpridearebeginningtowearaway；butformerlyaleadingmanwouldsoonerhavedied，thanundergonetheindignityofcarryingthesmallestburden。Mycompanionwasalightactiveman，dressedinadirtyblanket，andwithhisfacecompletelytattooed。Hehadformerlybeenagreatwarrior。HeappearedtobeonverycordialtermswithMr。
Bushby；butatvarioustimestheyhadquarrelledviolently。Mr。Bushbyremarkedthatalittlequietironywouldfrequentlysilenceanyoneofthesenativesintheirmostblusteringmoments。ThischiefhascomeandharanguedMr。Bushbyinahectoringmanner，saying，“greatchief，agreatman，afriendofmine，hascometopaymeavisit——youmustgivehimsomethinggoodtoeat，somefinepresents，etc。”Mr。Bushbyhasallowedhimtofinishhisdiscourse，andthenhasquietlyrepliedbysomeanswersuchas，“Whatelseshallyourslavedoforyou？”Themanwouldtheninstantly，withaverycomicalexpression，ceasehisbraggadocio。
Sometimeago，Mr。Bushbysufferedafarmoreseriousattack。Achiefandapartyofmentriedtobreakintohishouseinthemiddleofthenight，andnotfindingthissoeasy，commencedabriskfiringwiththeirmuskets。
Mr。Bushbywasslightlywounded，butthepartywasatlengthdrivenaway。
Shortlyafterwardsitwasdiscoveredwhowastheaggressor；andageneralmeetingofthechiefswasconvenedtoconsiderthecase。ItwasconsideredbytheNewZealandersasveryatrocious，inasmuchasitwasanightattack，andthatMrs。Bushbywaslyingillinthehouse：thislattercircumstance，muchtotheirhonour，beingconsideredinallcasesasaprotection。ThechiefsagreedtoconfiscatethelandoftheaggressortotheKingofEngland。
Thewholeproceeding，however，inthustryingandpunishingachiefwasentirelywithoutprecedent。Theaggressor，moreover，lostcasteintheestimationofhisequalsandthiswasconsideredbytheBritishasofmoreconsequencethantheconfiscationofhisland。
Astheboatwasshovingoff，asecondchiefsteppedintoher，whoonlywantedtheamusementofthepassageupanddownthecreek。Ineversawamorehorridandferociousexpressionthanthismanhad。ItimmediatelystruckmeIhadsomewhereseenhislikeness：itwillbefoundinRetzch’soutlinestoSchiller’sballadofFridolin，wheretwomenarepushingRobertintotheburningironfurnace。ItisthemanwhohashisarmonRobert’sbreast。Physiognomyherespokethetruth；thischiefhadbeenanotoriousmurderer，andwasanarrantcowardtoboot。Atthepointwheretheboatlanded，Mr。Bushbyaccompaniedmeafewhundredyardsontheroad：Icouldnothelpadmiringthecoolimpudenceofthehoaryoldvillain，whomweleftlyingintheboat，whenheshoutedtoMr。Bushby，“Donotyoustaylong，Ishallbetiredofwaitinghere。”
Wenowcommencedourwalk。Theroadlayalongawellbeatenpath，borderedoneachsidebythetallfern，whichcoversthewholecountry。Aftertravellingsomemiles，wecametoalittlecountryvillage，whereafewhovelswerecollectedtogether，andsomepatchesofgroundcultivatedwithpotatoes。
Theintroductionofthepotatohasbeenthemostessentialbenefittotheisland；itisnowmuchmoreusedthananynativevegetable。NewZealandisfavouredbyonegreatnaturaladvantage；namely，thattheinhabitantscanneverperishfromfamine。Thewholecountryaboundswithfern：andtherootsofthisplant，ifnotverypalatable，yetcontainmuchnutriment。
Anativecanalwayssubsistonthese，andontheshell-fish，whichareabundantonallpartsofthesea-coast。Thevillagesarechieflyconspicuousbytheplatformswhichareraisedonfourpoststenortwelvefeetabovetheground，andonwhichtheproduceofthefieldsiskeptsecurefromallaccidents。
OncomingnearoneofthehutsIwasmuchamusedbyseeingindueformtheceremonyofrubbing，or，asitoughttobecalled，pressingnoses。
Thewomen，onourfirstapproach，beganutteringsomethinginamostdolorousvoice；theythensquattedthemselvesdownandhelduptheirfaces；mycompanionstandingoverthem，oneafteranother，placedthebridgeofhisnoseatrightanglestotheirs，andcommencedpressing。Thislastedratherlongerthanacordialshakeofthehandwithus，andaswevarytheforceofthegraspofthehandinshaking，sodotheyinpressing。Duringtheprocesstheyutteredcomfortablelittlegrunts，verymuchinthesamemannerastwopigsdo，whenrubbingagainsteachother。Inoticedthattheslavewouldpressnoseswithanyonehemet，indifferentlyeitherbeforeorafterhismasterthechief。Althoughamongthesavages，thechiefhasabsolutepoweroflifeanddeathoverhisslave，yetthereisanentireabsenceofceremonybetweenthem。Mr。BurchellhasremarkedthesamethinginSouthernAfrica，withtherudeBachapins。Wherecivilizationhasarrivedatacertainpoint，complexformalitiessoonarisebetweenthedifferentgradesofsociety：
thusatTahitiallwereformerlyobligedtouncoverthemselvesaslowasthewaistinpresenceoftheking。
Theceremonyofpressingnoseshavingbeendulycompletedwithallpresent，weseatedourselvesinacircleinthefrontofoneofthe-hovels，andrestedtherehalf-an-hour。Allthehovelshavenearlythesameformanddimensions，andallagreeinbeingfilthilydirty。Theyresembleacow-
shedwithoneendopen，buthavingapartitionalittlewaywithin，withasquareholeinit，makingasmallgloomychamber。Inthistheinhabitantskeepalltheirproperty，andwhentheweatheriscoldtheysleepthere。
Theyeat，however，andpasstheirtimeintheopenpartinfront。Myguideshavingfinishedtheirpipes，wecontinuedourwalk。Thepathledthroughthesameundulatingcountry，thewholeuniformlyclothedasbeforewithfern。Onourrighthandwehadaserpentineriver，thebanksofwhichwerefringedwithtrees，andhereandthereonthehillsidestherewasaclumpofwood。Thewholescene，inspiteofitsgreencolour，hadratheradesolateaspect。Thesightofsomuchfernimpressesthemindwithanideaofsterility：
this，however，isnotcorrect；forwherevertheferngrowsthickandbreast-
high，thelandbytillagebecomesproductive。Someoftheresidentsthinkthatallthisextensiveopencountryoriginallywascoveredwithforests，andthatithasbeenclearedbyfire。Itissaid，thatbydigginginthebarestspots，lumpsofthekindofresinwhichflowsfromthekauripinearefrequentlyfound。Thenativeshadanevidentmotiveinclearingthecountry；forthefern，formerlyastaplearticleoffood，flourishesonlyintheopenclearedtracks。Thealmostentireabsenceofassociatedgrasses，whichformssoremarkableafeatureinthevegetationofthisisland，mayperhapsbeaccountedforbythelandhavingbeenaboriginallycoveredwithforest-trees。
Thesoilisvolcanic；inseveralpartswepassedovershaggylavas，andcraterscouldclearlybedistinguishedonseveraloftheneighbouringhills。Althoughthesceneryisnowherebeautiful，andonlyoccasionallypretty，Ienjoyedmywalk。Ishouldhaveenjoyeditmore，ifmycompanion，thechief，hadnotpossessedextraordinaryconversationalpowers。Iknewonlythreewords：“good。”“bad。”and“yes：“andwiththeseIansweredallhisremarks，withoutofcoursehavingunderstoodonewordhesaid。This，however，wasquitesufficient：Iwasagoodlistener，anagreeableperson，andheneverceasedtalkingtome。
AtlengthwereachedWaimate。Afterhavingpassedoversomanymilesofanuninhabiteduselesscountry，thesuddenappearanceofanEnglishfarm-house，anditswell-dressedfields，placedthereasifbyanenchanter’swand，wasexceedinglypleasant。Mr。Williamsnotbeingathome，IreceivedinMr。Davies’shouseacordialwelcome。Afterdrinkingteawithhisfamilyparty，wetookastrollaboutthefarm。AtWaimatetherearethreelargehouses，wherethemissionarygentlemen，Messrs。Williams，Davies，andClarke，reside；andnearthemarethehutsofthenativelabourers。Onanadjoiningslope，finecropsofbarleyandwheatwerestandinginfullear；andinanotherpart，fieldsofpotatoesandclover。ButIcannotattempttodescribeallIsaw；therewerelargegardens，witheveryfruitandvegetablewhichEnglandproduces；andmanybelongingtoawarmerclime。Imayinstanceasparagus，kidneybeans，cucumbers，rhubarb，apples，pears，figs，peaches，apricots，grapes，olives，gooseberries，currants，hops，gorseforfences，andEnglishoaks；alsomanykindsofflowers。Aroundthefarm-yardtherewerestables，athrashing-barnwithitswinnowingmachine，ablacksmith’sforge，andonthegroundploughsharesandothertools：inthemiddlewasthathappymixtureofpigsandpoultry，lyingcomfortablytogether，asineveryEnglishfarm-yard。Atthedistanceofafewhundredyards，wherethewaterofalittlerillhadbeendammedupintoapool，therewasalargeandsubstantialwater-mill。
Allthisisverysurprising，whenitisconsideredthatfiveyearsagonothingbutthefernflourishedhere。Moreover，nativeworkmanship，taughtbythemissionaries，haseffectedthischange；——thelessonofthemissionaryistheenchanter’swand。Thehousehadbeenbuilt，thewindowsframed，thefieldsploughed，andeventhetreesgrafted，byaNewZealander。Atthemill，aNewZealanderwasseenpowderedwhitewithflower，likehisbrothermillerinEngland。WhenIlookedatthiswholescene，Ithoughtitadmirable。ItwasnotmerelythatEnglandwasbroughtvividlybeforemymind；yet，astheeveningdrewtoaclose，thedomesticsounds，thefieldsofcorn，thedistantundulatingcountrywithitstreesmightwellhavebeenmistakenforourfatherland：norwasitthetriumphantfeelingatseeingwhatEnglishmencouldeffect；butratherthehighhopesthusinspiredforthefutureprogressofthisfineisland。
Severalyoungmen，redeemedbythemissionariesfromslavery，wereemployedonthefarm。Theyweredressedinashirt，jacket，andtrousers，andhadarespectableappearance。Judgingfromonetriflinganecdote，Ishouldthinktheymustbehonest。Whenwalkinginthefields，ayounglabourercameuptoMr。Davies，andgavehimaknifeandgimlet，sayingthathehadfoundthemontheroad，anddidnotknowtowhomtheybelonged！Theseyoungmenandboysappearedverymerryandgood-humoured。IntheeveningIsawapartyofthematcricket：whenIthoughtoftheausterityofwhichthemissionarieshavebeenaccused，Iwasamusedbyobservingoneoftheirownsonstakinganactivepartinthegame。Amoredecidedandpleasingchangewasmanifestedintheyoungwomen，whoactedasservantswithinthehouses。Theirclean，tidy，andhealthyappearance，likethatofthedairy-maidsinEngland，formedawonderfulcontrastwiththewomenofthefilthyhovelsinKororadika。Thewivesofthemissionariestriedtopersuadethemnottobetattooed；butafamousoperatorhavingarrivedfromthesouth，theysaid，“Wereallymustjusthaveafewlinesonourlips；elsewhenwegrowold，ourlipswillshrivel，andweshallbesoveryugly。”
Thereisnotnearlysomuchtattooingasformerly；butasitisabadgeofdistinctionbetweenthechiefandtheslave，itwillprobablylongbepractised。Sosoondoesanytrainofideasbecomehabitual，thatthemissionariestoldmethatevenintheireyesaplainfacelookedmean，andnotlikethatofaNewZealandgentleman。