Thetwonorthernoneswereimpracticable，owingtoasuccessionofwaterfallswhichdescendedfromthejaggedsummitofthehighestmountain；theothertoallappearancewasequallyinaccessible，butwemanagedtoascenditbyamostextraordinaryroad。Thesidesofthevalleywereherenearlyprecipitous，but，asfrequentlyhappenswithstratifiedrocks，smallledgesprojected，whichwerethicklycoveredbywildbananas，lilaceousplants，andotherluxuriantproductionsofthetropics。TheTahitians，byclimbingamongsttheseledges，searchingforfruit，haddiscoveredatrackbywhichthewholeprecipicecouldbescaled。Thefirstascentfromthevalleywasverydangerous；foritwasnecessarytopassasteeplyinclinedfaceofnakedrock，bytheaidofropeswhichwebroughtwithus。Howanypersondiscoveredthatthisformidablespotwastheonlypointwherethesideofthemountainwaspracticable，Icannotimagine。Wethencautiouslywalkedalongoneoftheledgestillwecametooneofthethreestreams。Thisledgeformedaflatspot，abovewhichabeautifulcascade，somehundredfeetinheight，poureddownitswaters，andbeneath，anotherhighcascadefellintothemainstreaminthevalleybelow。Fromthiscoolandshadyrecesswemadeacircuittoavoidtheoverhangingwaterfall。Asbefore，wefollowedlittleprojectingledges，thedangerbeingpartlyconcealedbythethicknessofthevegetation。Inpassingfromoneoftheledgestoanother，therewasaverticalwallofrock。OneoftheTahitians，afineactiveman，placedthetrunkofatreeagainstthis，climbedupit，andthenbytheaidofcrevicesreachedthesummit。Hefixedtheropestoaprojectingpoint，andloweredthemforourdogandluggage，andthenweclamberedupourselves。Beneaththeledgeonwhichthedeadtreewasplaced，theprecipicemusthavebeenfiveorsixhundredfeetdeep；andiftheabysshadnotbeenpartlyconcealedbytheoverhangingfernsandliliesmyheadwouldhaveturnedgiddy，andnothingshouldhaveinducedmetohaveattemptedit。Wecontinuedtoascend，sometimesalongledges，andsometimesalongknife-edgedridges，havingoneachhandprofoundravines。
IntheCordilleraIhaveseenmountainsonafargranderscale，butforabruptness，nothingatallcomparablewiththis。Intheeveningwereachedaflatlittlespotonthebanksofthesamestream，whichwehadcontinuedtofollow，andwhichdescendsinachainofwaterfalls：herewebivouackedforthenight。Oneachsideoftheravinethereweregreatbedsofthemountain-banana，coveredwithripefruit。Manyoftheseplantswerefromtwentytotwenty-fivefeethigh，andfromthreetofourincircumference。
Bytheaidofstripsofbarkforrope，thestemsofbamboosforrafters，andthelargeleafofthebananaforathatch，theTahitiansinafewminutesbuiltusanexcellenthouse；andwithwitheredleavesmadeasoftbed。
Theythenproceededtomakeafire，andcookoureveningmeal。Alightwasprocured，byrubbingabluntpointedstickinagroovemadeinanother，asifwithintentionofdeepeningit，untilbythefrictionthedustbecameignited。ApeculiarlywhiteandverylightwoodtheHibiscustiliareus
isaloneusedforthispurpose：itisthesamewhichservesforpolestocarryanyburden，andforthefloatingout-riggerstotheircanoes。Thefirewasproducedinafewseconds：buttoapersonwhodoesnotunderstandtheart，itrequires，asIfound，thegreatestexertion；butatlast，tomygreatpride，Isucceededinignitingthedust。TheGauchointhePampasusesadifferentmethod：takinganelasticstickabouteighteenincheslong，hepressesoneendonhisbreast，andtheotherpointedendintoaholeinapieceofwood，andthenrapidlyturnsthecurvedpart，likeacarpenter’scentre-bit。TheTahitianshavingmadeasmallfireofsticks，placedascoreofstones，ofaboutthesizeofcricket-balls，ontheburningwood。Inabouttenminutesthestickswereconsumed，andthestoneshot。
Theyhadpreviouslyfoldedupinsmallparcelsofleaves，piecesofbeef，fish，ripeandunripebananas，andthetopsofthewildarum。Thesegreenparcelswerelaidinalayerbetweentwolayersofthehotstones，andthewholethencoveredupwithearth，sothatnosmokeorsteamcouldescape。
Inaboutaquarterofanhour，thewholewasmostdeliciouslycooked。Thechoicegreenparcelswerenowlaidonaclothofbananaleaves，andwithacocoa-nutshellwedrankthecoolwateroftherunningstream；andthusweenjoyedourrusticmeal。
Icouldnotlookonthesurroundingplantswithoutadmiration。Oneverysidewereforestsofbanana；thefruitofwhich，thoughservingforfoodinvariousways，layinheapsdecayingontheground。Infrontofustherewasanextensivebrakeofwildsugar-cane；andthestreamwasshadedbythedarkgreenknottedstemoftheAva，——sofamousinformerdaysforitspowerfulintoxicatingeffects。Ichewedapiece，andfoundthatithadanacridandunpleasanttaste，whichwouldhaveinducedanyoneatoncetohavepronounceditpoisonous。Thankstothemissionaries，thisplantnowthrivesonlyinthesedeepravines，innocuoustoeveryone。ClosebyIsawthewildarum，therootsofwhich，whenwellbaked，aregoodtoeat，andtheyoungleavesbetterthanspinach。Therewasthewildyam，andaliliaceousplantcalledTi，whichgrowsinabundance，andhasasoftbrownroot，inshapeandsizelikeahugelogofwood：thisservedusfordessert，foritisassweetastreacle，andwithapleasanttaste。Therewere，moreover，severalotherwildfruits，andusefulvegetables。Thelittlestream，besidesitscoolwater，producedeels，andcray-fish。Ididindeedadmirethisscene，whenIcompareditwithanuncultivatedoneinthetemperatezones。Ifelttheforceoftheremark，thatman，atleastsavageman，withhisreasoningpowersonlypartlydeveloped，isthechildofthetropics。
Astheeveningdrewtoaclose，Istrolledbeneaththegloomyshadeofthebananasupthecourseofthestream。Mywalkwassoonbroughttoaclose，bycomingtoawaterfallbetweentwoandthreehundredfeethigh；
andagainabovethistherewasanother。Imentionallthesewaterfallsinthisonebrook，togiveageneralideaoftheinclinationoftheland。
Inthelittlerecesswherethewaterfell，itdidnotappearthatabreathofwindhadeverblown。Thethinedgesofthegreatleavesofthebanana，dampwithspray，wereunbroken，insteadofbeing，asissogenerallythecase，splitintoathousandshreds。Fromourposition，almostsuspendedonthemountainside，therewereglimpsesintothedepthsoftheneighbouringvalleys；andtheloftypointsofthecentralmountains，toweringupwithinsixtydegreesofthezenith，hidhalftheeveningsky。Thusseated，itwasasublimespectacletowatchtheshadesofnightgraduallyobscuringthelastandhighestpinnacles。
Beforewelaidourselvesdowntosleep，theelderTahitianfellonhisknees，andwithclosedeyesrepeatedalongprayerinhisnativetongue。
HeprayedasaChristianshoulddo，withfittingreverence，andwithoutthefearofridiculeoranyostentationofpiety。Atourmealsneitherofthemenwouldtastefood，withoutsayingbeforehandashortgrace。ThosetravellerswhothinkthataTahitianpraysonlywhentheeyesofthemissionaryarefixedonhim，shouldhavesleptwithusthatnightonthemountain-side。
Beforemorningitrainedveryheavily；butthegoodthatchofbanana-leaveskeptusdry。
November19th——Atdaylightmyfriends，aftertheirmorningprayer，preparedanexcellentbreakfastinthesamemannerasintheevening。Theythemselvescertainlypartookofitlargely；indeedIneversawanymeneatnearsomuch。Isupposesuchenormouslycapaciousstomachsmustbetheeffectofalargepartoftheirdietconsistingoffruitandvegetables，whichcontain，inagivenbulk，acomparativelysmallportionofnutriment。
Unwittingly，Iwasthemeansofmycompanionsbreaking，asIafterwardslearned，oneoftheirownlaws，andresolutions：Itookwithmeaflaskofspirits，whichtheycouldnotrefusetopartakeof；butasoftenastheydrankalittle，theyputtheirfingersbeforetheirmouths，andutteredtheword“Missionary。”Abouttwoyearsago，althoughtheuseoftheavawasprevented，drunkennessfromtheintroductionofspiritsbecameveryprevalent。Themissionariesprevailedonafewgoodmen，whosawthattheircountrywasrapidlygoingtoruin，tojoinwiththeminaTemperanceSociety。
Fromgoodsenseorshame，allthechiefsandthequeenwereatlastpersuadedtojoin。Immediatelyalawwaspassed，thatnospiritsshouldbeallowedtobeintroducedintotheisland，andthathewhosoldandhewhoboughttheforbiddenarticleshouldbepunishedbyafine。Withremarkablejustice，acertainperiodwasallowedforstockinhandtobesold，beforethelawcameintoeffect。Butwhenitdid，ageneralsearchwasmade，inwhicheventhehousesofthemissionarieswerenotexempted，andalltheavaasthenativescallallardentspiritswaspouredontheground。WhenonereflectsontheeffectofintemperanceontheaboriginesofthetwoAmericas，Ithinkitwillbeacknowledgedthateverywell-wisherofTahitiowesnocommondebtofgratitudetothemissionaries。AslongasthelittleislandofSt。HelenaremainedunderthegovernmentoftheEastIndiaCompany，spirits，owingtothegreatinjurytheyhadproduced，werenotallowedtobeimported；butwinewassuppliedfromtheCapeofGoodHope。Itisratherastrikingandnotverygratifyingfact，thatinthesameyearthatspiritswereallowedtobesoldinHelena，theirusewasbanishedfromTahitibythefreewillofthepeople。
AfterbreakfastweproceededonourJourney。Asmyobjectwasmerelytoseealittleoftheinteriorscenery，wereturnedbyanothertrack，whichdescendedintothemainvalleylowerdown。Forsomedistancewewound，byamostintricatepath，alongthesideofthemountainwhichformedthevalley。Inthelessprecipitouspartswepassedthroughextensivegrovesofthewildbanana。TheTahitians，withtheirnaked，tattooedbodies，theirheadsornamentedwithflowers，andseeninthedarkshadeofthesegroves，wouldhaveformedafinepictureofmaninhabitingsomeprimevalland。
Inourdescentwefollowedthelineofridges；thesewereexceedinglynarrow，andforconsiderablelengthssteepasaladder；butallclothedwithvegetation。
Theextremecarenecessaryinpoisingeachsteprenderedthewalkfatiguing。
Ididnotceasetowonderattheseravinesandprecipices：whenviewingthecountryfromoneoftheknife-edgedridges，thepointofsupportwassosmall，thattheeffectwasnearlythesameasitmustbefromaballoon。
Inthisdescentwehadoccasiontousetheropesonlyonce，atthepointwhereweenteredthemainvalley。Wesleptunderthesameledgeofrockwherewehaddinedthedaybefore：thenightwasfine，butfromthedepthandnarrownessofthegorge，profoundlydark。
Beforeactuallyseeingthiscountry，IfounditdifficulttounderstandtwofactsmentionedbyEllis；namely，thatafterthemurderousbattlesofformertimes，thesurvivorsontheconqueredsideretiredintothemountains，whereahandfulofmencouldresistamultitude。Certainlyhalfadozenmen，atthespotwheretheTahitianrearedtheoldtree，couldeasilyhaverepulsedthousands。Secondly，thataftertheintroductionofChristianity，therewerewildmenwholivedinthemountains，andwhoseretreatswereunknowntothemorecivilizedinhabitantsNovember20th——Inthemorningwestartedearly，andreachedMatavaiatnoon。Ontheroadwemetalargepartyofnobleathleticmen，goingforwildbananas。Ifoundthattheship，onaccountofthedifficultyinwatering，hadmovedtotheharbourofPapawa，towhichplaceIimmediatelywalked。Thisisaveryprettyspot。Thecoveissurroundedbyreefs，andthewaterassmoothasinalake。Thecultivatedground，withitsbeautifulproductions，interspersedwithcottages，comesclosedowntothewater’sedge。FromthevaryingaccountswhichIhadreadbeforereachingtheseislands，Iwasveryanxioustoform，frommyownobservation，ajudgmentoftheirmoralstate，——althoughsuchjudgmentwouldnecessarilybeveryimperfect。Firstimpressionsatalltimesverymuchdependonone’spreviouslyacquiredideas。MynotionsweredrawnfromEllis’s“PolynesianResearches“——
anadmirableandmostinterestingwork，butnaturallylookingateverythingunderafavourablepointofview，fromBeechey’sVoyage；andfromthatofKotzebue，whichisstronglyadversetothewholemissionarysystem。
Hewhocomparesthesethreeaccountswill，Ithink，formatolerablyaccurateconceptionofthepresentstateofTahiti。OneofmyimpressionswhichItookfromthetwolastauthorities，wasdecidedlyincorrect；viz。，thattheTahitianshadbecomeagloomyrace，andlivedinfearofthemissionaries。
OfthelatterfeelingIsawnotrace，unless，indeed，fearandrespectbeconfoundedunderonename。Insteadofdiscontentbeingacommonfeeling，itwouldbedifficultinEuropetopickoutofacrowdhalfsomanymerryandhappyfaces。Theprohibitionofthefluteanddancingisinveighedagainstaswrongandfoolish；——themorethanpresbyterianmannerofkeepingthesabbathislookedatinasimilarlight。OnthesepointsIwillnotpretendtoofferanyopiniontomenwhohaveresidedasmanyyearsasI
wasdaysontheisland。
Onthewhole，itappearstomethatthemoralityandreligionoftheinhabitantsarehighlycreditable。Therearemanywhoattack，evenmoreacrimoniouslythanKotzebue，boththemissionaries，theirsystem，andtheeffectsproducedbyit。Suchreasonersnevercomparethepresentstatewiththatoftheislandonlytwentyyearsago；norevenwiththatofEuropeatthisday；buttheycompareitwiththehighstandardofGospelperfection。
TheyexpectthemissionariestoeffectthatwhichtheApostlesthemselvesfailedtodo。Inasmuchastheconditionofthepeoplefallsshortofthishighstandard，blameisattachedtothemissionary，insteadofcreditforthatwhichhehaseffected。Theyforget，orwillnotremember，thathumansacrifices，andthepowerofanidolatrouspriesthood——asystemofprofligacyunparalleledinanyotherpartoftheworld——infanticideaconsequenceofthatsystem——bloodywars，wheretheconquerorssparedneitherwomennorchildren——thatallthesehavebeenabolished；andthatdishonesty，intemperance，andlicentiousnesshavebeengreatlyreducedbytheintroductionofChristianity。Inavoyagertoforgetthesethingsisbaseingratitude；
forshouldhechancetobeatthepointofshipwreckonsomeunknowncoast，hewillmostdevoutlypraythatthelessonofthemissionarymayhaveextendedthusfar。