DuringourstayatPortFamine，theFuegianstwicecameandplaguedus。Asthereweremanyinstruments，clothes，andmenonshore，itwasthoughtnecessarytofrightenthemaway。Thefirsttimeafewgreatgunswerefired，whentheywerefardistant。ItwasmostludicroustowatchthroughaglasstheIndians，asoftenastheshotstruckthewater，takeupstones，and，asabolddefiance，throwthemtowardstheship，thoughaboutamileandahalfdistant！Aboatwassentwithorderstofireafewmusket-shotswideofthem。TheFuegianshidthemselvesbehindthetrees，andforeverydischargeofthemusketstheyfiredtheirarrows；all，however，fellshortoftheboat，andtheofficerashepointedatthemlaughed。ThismadetheFuegiansfranticwithpassion，andtheyshooktheirmantlesinvainrage。
Atlast，seeingtheballscutandstrikethetrees，theyranaway，andwewereleftinpeaceandquietness。DuringtheformervoyagetheFuegianswerehereverytroublesome，andtofrightenthemarocketwasfiredatnightovertheirwigwams；itansweredeffectually，andoneoftheofficerstoldmethattheclamourfirstraised，andthebarkingofthedogs，wasquiteludicrousincontrastwiththeprofoundsilencewhichinaminuteortwoafterwardsprevailed。ThenextmorningnotasingleFuegianwasintheneighbourhood。
WhentheBeaglewashereinthemonthofFebruary，Istartedonemorningatfouro’clocktoascendMountTarn，whichis2600feethigh，andisthemostelevatedpointinthisimmediatedistrict。Wewentinaboattothefootofthemountainbutunluckilynottothebestpart，andthenbeganourascent。Theforestcommencesatthelineofhigh-watermark，andduringthefirsttwohoursIgaveoverallhopesofreachingthesummit。Sothickwasthewood，thatitwasnecessarytohaveconstantrecoursetothecompass；
foreverylandmark，thoughinamountainouscountry，wascompletelyshutout。Inthedeepravines，thedeath-likesceneofdesolationexceededalldescription；outsideitwasblowingagale，butinthesehollows，notevenabreathofwindstirredtheleavesofthetallesttrees。Sogloomy，cold，andwetwaseverypart，thatnoteventhefungi，mosses，orfernscouldflourish。Inthevalleysitwasscarcelypossibletocrawlalong，theyweresocompletelybarricadedbygreatmoulderingtrunks，whichhadfallendownineverydirection。Whenpassingoverthesenaturalbridges，one’scoursewasoftenarrestedbysinkingkneedeepintotherottenwood；atothertimes，whenattemptingtoleanagainstafirmtree，onewasstartledbyfindingamassofdecayedmatterreadytofallattheslightesttouch。
Weatlastfoundourselvesamongthestuntedtrees，andthensoonreachedthebareridge，whichconductedustothesummit。HerewasaviewcharacteristicofTierradelFuego；irregularchainsofhills，mottledwithpatchesofsnow，deepyellowish-greenvalleys，andarmsoftheseaintersectingthelandinmanydirections。Thestrongwindwaspiercinglycold，andtheatmosphereratherhazy，sothatwedidnotstaylongonthetopofthemountain。Ourdescentwasnotquitesolaboriousasourascent，fortheweightofthebodyforcedapassage，andalltheslipsandfallswereintherightdirection。
Ihavealreadymentionedthesombreanddullcharacteroftheevergreenforests，[3]inwhichtwoorthreespeciesoftreesgrow，totheexclusionofallothers。Abovetheforestland，therearemanydwarfalpineplants，whichallspringfromthemassofpeat，andhelptocomposeit：theseplantsareveryremarkablefromtheirclosealliancewiththespeciesgrowingonthemountainsofEurope，thoughsomanythousandmilesdistant。ThecentralpartofTierradelFuego，wheretheclay-slateformationoccurs，ismostfavourabletothegrowthoftrees；ontheoutercoastthepoorergraniticsoil，andasituationmoreexposedtotheviolentwinds，donotallowoftheirattaininganygreatsize。NearPortFamineIhaveseenmorelargetreesthananywhereelse：ImeasuredaWinter’sBarkwhichwasfourfeetsixinchesingirth，andseveralofthebeechwereasmuchasthirteenfeet。CaptainKingalsomentionsabeechwhichwassevenfeetindiameter，seventeenfeetabovetheroots。
ThereisonevegetableproductiondeservingnoticefromitsimportanceasanarticleoffoodtotheFuegians。Itisaglobular，bright-yellowfungus，whichgrowsinvastnumbersonthebeech-trees。Whenyoungitiselasticandturgid，with[picture]
asmoothsurface；butwhenmatureitshrinks，becomestougher，andhasitsentiresurfacedeeplypittedorhoney-combed，asrepresentedintheaccompanyingwood-cut。Thisfungusbelongstoanewandcuriousgenus，[4]IfoundasecondspeciesonanotherspeciesofbeechinChile：andDr。Hookerinformsme，thatjustlatelyathirdspecieshasbeendiscoveredonathirdspeciesofbeechinVanDiernan’sLand。
Howsingularisthisrelationshipbetweenparasiticalfungiandthetreesonwhichtheygrow，indistantpartsoftheworld！InTierradelFuegothefungusinitstoughandmaturestateiscollectedinlargequantitiesbythewomenandchildren，andiseatenun-cooked。Ithasamucilaginous，slightlysweettaste，withafaintsmelllikethatofamushroom。Withtheexceptionofafewberries，chieflyofadwarfarbutus，thenativeseatnovegetablefoodbesidesthisfungus。InNewZealand，beforetheintroductionofthepotato，therootsofthefernwerelargelyconsumed；atthepresenttime，Ibelieve，TierradelFuegoistheonlycountryintheworldwhereacryptogamicplantaffordsastaplearticleoffood。
ThezoologyofTierradelFuego，asmighthavebeenexpectedfromthenatureofitsclimateandvegetation，isverypoor。Ofmammalia，besideswhalesandseals，thereisonebat，akindofmouseReithrodonchinchilloides，twotruemice，actenomysalliedtooridenticalwiththetucutuco，twofoxesCanisMagellanicusandC。Azarae，asea-otter，theguanaco，andadeer。Mostoftheseanimalsinhabitonlythedriereasternpartsofthecountry；andthedeerhasneverbeenseensouthoftheStraitofMagellan。
Observingthegeneralcorrespondenceofthecliffsofsoftsandstone，mud，andshingle，ontheoppositesidesoftheStrait，andonsomeinterveningislands，oneisstronglytemptedtobelievethatthelandwasoncejoined，andthusallowedanimalssodelicateandhelplessasthetucutucoandReithrodontopassover。Thecorrespondenceofthecliffsisfarfromprovinganyjunction；becausesuchcliffsgenerallyareformedbytheintersectionofslopingdeposits，which，beforetheelevationoftheland，hadbeenaccumulatednearthethenexistingshores。Itis，however，aremarkablecoincidence，thatinthetwolargeislandscutoffbytheBeagleChannelfromtherestofTierradelFuego，onehascliffscomposedofmatterthatmaybecalledstratifiedalluvium，whichfrontsimilaronesontheoppositesideofthechannel，——whiletheotherisexclusivelyborderedbyoldcrystallinerocks：intheformer，calledNavarinIsland，bothfoxesandguanacosoccur；butinthelatter，HosteIsland，althoughsimilarineveryrespect，andonlyseparatedbyachannelalittlemorethanhalfamilewide，IhavethewordofJemmyButtonforsayingthatneitheroftheseanimalsarefound。
Thegloomywoodsareinhabitedbyfewbirds：occasionallytheplaintivenoteofawhite-tuftedtyrant-flycatcherMyiobiusalbicepsmaybeheard，concealednearthesummitofthemostloftytrees；andmorerarelytheloudstrangecryofablackwood-pecker，withafinescarletcrestonitshead。Alittle，dusky-colouredwrenScytalopusMagellanicushopsinaskulkingmanneramongtheentangledmassofthefallenanddecayingtrunks。
ButthecreeperOxyurustupinieriisthecommonestbirdinthecountry。
Throughoutthebeechforests，highupandlowdown，inthemostgloomy，wet，andimpenetrableravines，itmaybemetwith。Thislittlebirdnodoubtappearsmorenumerousthanitreallyis，fromitshabitoffollowingwithseemingcuriosityanypersonwhoentersthesesilentwoods：continuallyutteringaharshtwitter，itfluttersfromtreetotree，withinafewfeetoftheintruder’sface。ItisfarfromwishingforthemodestconcealmentofthetruecreeperCerthiafamiliaris；nordoesit，likethatbird，runupthetrunksoftrees，butindustriously，afterthemannerofawillow-wren，hopsabout，andsearchesforinsectsoneverytwigandbranch。Inthemoreopenparts，threeorfourspeciesoffinches，athrush，astarlingorIcterus，twoOpetiorhynchi，andseveralhawksandowlsoccur。
TheabsenceofanyspecieswhateverinthewholeclassofReptiles，isamarkedfeatureinthezoologyofthiscountry，aswellasinthatoftheFalklandIslands。Idonotgroundthisstatementmerelyonmyownobservation，butIhearditfromtheSpanishinhabitantsofthelatterplace，andfromJemmyButtonwithregardtoTierradelFuego。OnthebanksoftheSantaCruz，in50degs。south，Isawafrog；anditisnotimprobablethattheseanimals，aswellaslizards，maybefoundasfarsouthastheStraitofMagellan，wherethecountryretainsthecharacterofPatagonia；
butwithinthedampandcoldlimitofTierradelFuegonotoneoccurs。
Thattheclimatewouldnothavesuitedsomeoftheorders，suchaslizards，mighthavebeenforeseen；butwithrespecttofrogs，thiswasnotsoobvious。
Beetlesoccurinverysmallnumbers：itwaslongbeforeIcouldbelievethatacountryaslargeasScotland，coveredwithvegetableproductionsandwithavarietyofstations，couldbesounproductive。ThefewwhichIfoundwerealpinespeciesHarpalidaeandHeteromidaelivingunderstones。
Thevegetable-feedingChrysomelidae，soeminentlycharacteristicoftheTropics，areherealmostentirelyabsent；[5]Isawveryfewflies，butterflies，orbees，andnocricketsorOrthoptera。InthepoolsofwaterIfoundbutafewaquaticbeetles，andnotanyfresh-watershells：Succineaatfirstappearsanexception；buthereitmustbecalledaterrestrialshell，foritlivesonthedampherbagefarfromthewater。
Land-shellscouldbeprocuredonlyinthesamealpinesituationswiththebeetles。IhavealreadycontrastedtheclimateaswellasthegeneralappearanceofTierradelFuegowiththatofPatagonia；andthedifferenceisstronglyexemplifiedintheentomology。Idonotbelievetheyhaveonespeciesincommon；certainlythegeneralcharacteroftheinsectsiswidelydifferent。
Ifweturnfromthelandtothesea，weshallfindthelatterasabundantlystockedwithlivingcreaturesastheformerispoorlyso。Inallpartsoftheworldarockyandpartiallyprotectedshoreperhapssupports，inagivenspace，agreaternumberofindividualanimalsthananyotherstation。
Thereisonemarineproductionwhich，fromitsimportance，isworthyofaparticularhistory。Itisthekelp，orMacrocystispyrifera。Thisplantgrowsoneveryrockfromlow-watermarktoagreatdepth，bothontheoutercoastandwithinthechannels。[6]Ibelieve，duringthevoyagesoftheAdventureandBeagle，notonerocknearthesurfacewasdiscoveredwhichwasnotbuoyedbythisfloatingweed。Thegoodserviceitthusaffordstovesselsnavigatingnearthisstormylandisevident；
anditcertainlyhassavedmanyaonefrombeingwrecked。Iknowfewthingsmoresurprisingthantoseethisplantgrowingandflourishingamidstthosegreatbreakersofthewesternocean，whichnomassofrock，letitbeeversohard，canlongresist。Thestemisround，slimy，andsmooth，andseldomhasadiameterofsomuchasaninch。Afewtakentogetheraresufficientlystrongtosupporttheweightofthelargeloosestones，towhichintheinlandchannelstheygrowattached；andyetsomeofthesestonesweresoheavythatwhendrawntothesurface，theycouldscarcelybeliftedintoaboatbyoneperson。CaptainCook，inhissecondvoyage，says，thatthisplantatKerguelenLandrisesfromagreaterdepththantwenty-fourfathoms；
“andasitdoesnotgrowinaperpendiculardirection，butmakesaveryacuteanglewiththebottom，andmuchofitafterwardsspreadsmanyfathomsonthesurfaceofthesea，Iamwellwarrantedtosaythatsomeofitgrowstothelengthofsixtyfathomsandupwards。”Idonotsupposethestemofanyotherplantattainssogreatalengthasthreehundredandsixtyfeet，asstatedbyCaptainCook。CaptainFitzRoy，moreover，founditgrowing[7]upfromthegreaterdepthofforty-fivefathoms。
Thebedsofthissea-weed，evenwhenofnotgreatbreadth，makeexcellentnaturalfloatingbreakwaters。Itisquitecurioustosee，inanexposedharbour，howsoonthewavesfromtheopensea，astheytravelthroughthestragglingstems，sinkinheight，andpassintosmoothwater。
ThenumberoflivingcreaturesofallOrders，whoseexistenceintimatelydependsonthekelp，iswonderful。Agreatvolumemightbewritten，describingtheinhabitantsofoneofthesebedsofsea-weed。Almostalltheleaves，exceptingthosethatfloatonthesurface，aresothicklyincrustedwithcorallinesastobeofawhitecolour。Wefindexquisitelydelicatestructures，someinhabitedbysimplehydra-likepolypi，othersbymoreorganizedkinds，andbeautifulcompoundAscidiae。Ontheleaves，also，variouspatelliformshells，Trochi，uncoveredmolluscs，andsomebivalvesareattached。Innumerablecrustaceafrequenteverypartoftheplant。Onshakingthegreatentangledroots，apileofsmallfish，shells，cuttle-fish，crabsofallorders，sea-eggs，star-fish，beautifulHoluthuriae，Planariae，andcrawlingnereidousanimalsofamultitudeofforms，allfallouttogether。OftenasIrecurredtoabranchofthekelp，Ineverfailedtodiscoveranimalsofnewandcuriousstructures。InChiloe，wherethekelpdoesnotthriveverywell，thenumerousshells，corallines，andcrustaceaareabsent；butthereyetremainafewoftheFlustraceae，andsomecompoundAscidiae；thelatter，however，areofdifferentspeciesfromthoseinTierradelFuego：weseeherethefucuspossessingawiderrangethantheanimalswhichuseitasanabode。Icanonlycomparethesegreataquaticforestsofthesouthernhemispherewiththeterrestrialonesintheintertropicalregions。Yetifinanycountryaforestwasdestroyed，Idonotbelievenearlysomanyspeciesofanimalswouldperishaswouldhere，fromthedestructionofthekelp。Amidsttheleavesofthisplantnumerousspeciesoffishlive，whichnowhereelsecouldfindfoodorshelter；withtheirdestructionthemanycormorantsandotherfishingbirds，theotters，seals，andporpoises，wouldsoonperishalso；andlastly，theFuegiansavage，themiserablelordofthismiserableland，wouldredoublehiscannibalfeast，decreaseinnumbers，andperhapsceasetoexist。