第23章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE",免费读到尾

  ThelittleowlAthenecunicularia,whichhasbeensooftenmentioned,ontheplainsofBuenosAyresexclusivelyinhabitstheholesofthebizcacha;

  butinBandaOrientalitisitsownworkman。Duringtheopenday,butmoreespeciallyintheevening,thesebirdsmaybeseenineverydirectionstandingfrequentlybypairsonthehillockneartheirburrows。Ifdisturbedtheyeitherenterthehole,or,utteringashrillharshcry,movewitharemarkablyundulatoryflighttoashortdistance,andthenturninground,steadilygazeattheirpursuer。Occasionallyintheeveningtheymaybeheardhooting。

  IfoundinthestomachsoftwowhichIopenedtheremainsofmice,andIonedaysawasmallsnakekilledandcarriedaway。Itissaidthatsnakesaretheircommonpreyduringthedaytime。Imayheremention,asshowingonwhatvariouskindsoffoodowlssubsist,thataspecieskilledamongtheisletsoftheChonosArchipelago,haditsstomachfullofgood-sizedcrabs。InIndia[2]thereisafishinggenusofowls,whichlikewisecatchescrabs。

  IntheeveningwecrossedtheRioArrecifeonasimpleraftmadeofbarrelslashedtogether,andsleptatthepost-houseontheotherside。

  Ithisdaypaidhorse-hireforthirty-oneleagues;andalthoughthesunwasglaringhotIwasbutlittlefatigued。WhenCaptainHeadtalksofridingfiftyleaguesaday,Idonotimaginethedistanceisequalto150Englishmiles。Atallevents,thethirty-oneleagueswasonly76milesinastraightline,andinanopencountryIshouldthinkfouradditionalmilesforturningswouldbeasufficientallowance。

  29thand30th——Wecontinuedtorideoverplainsofthesamecharacter。

  AtSanNicolasIfirstsawthenobleriveroftheParana。Atthefootofthecliffonwhichthetownstands,somelargevesselswereatanchor。

  BeforearrivingatRozario,wecrossedtheSaladillo,astreamoffineclearrunningwater,buttoosalinetodrink。Rozarioisalargetownbuiltonadeadlevelplain,whichformsacliffaboutsixtyfeethighovertheParana。Theriverhereisverybroad,withmanyislands,whicharelowandwooded,asisalsotheoppositeshore。Theviewwouldresemblethatofagreatlake,ifitwerenotforthelinear-shapedislets,whichalonegivetheideaofrunningwater。Thecliffsarethemostpicturesquepart;

  sometimestheyareabsolutelyperpendicular,andofaredcolour;atothertimesinlargebrokenmasses,coveredwithcactiandmimosa-trees。Therealgrandeur,however,ofanimmenseriverlikethis,isderivedfromreflectinghowimportantameansofcommunicationandcommerceitformsbetweenonenationandanother;towhatadistanceittravels,andfromhowvastaterritoryitdrainsthegreatbodyoffreshwaterwhichflowspastyourfeet。

  FormanyleaguesnorthandsouthofSanNicolasandRozario,thecountryisreallylevel。Scarcelyanythingwhichtravellershavewrittenaboutitsextremeflatness,canbeconsideredasexaggeration。YetIcouldneverfindaspotwhere,byslowlyturninground,objectswerenotseenatgreaterdistancesinsomedirectionsthaninothers;andthismanifestlyprovesinequalityintheplain。Atsea,aperson’seyebeingsixfeetabovethesurfaceofthewater,hishorizonistwomilesandfour-fifthsdistant。

  Inlikemanner,themoreleveltheplain,themorenearlydoesthehorizonapproachwithinthesenarrowlimits;andthis,inmyopinion,entirelydestroysthatgrandeurwhichonewouldhaveimaginedthatavastlevelplainwouldhavepossessed。

  October1st-WestartedbymoonlightandarrivedattheRioTercerobysunrise。TheriverisalsocalledtheSaladillo,anditdeservesthename,forthewaterisbrackish。Istayedherethegreaterpartoftheday,searchingforfossilbones。BesidesaperfecttoothoftheToxodon,andmanyscatteredbones,Ifoundtwoimmenseskeletonsneareachother,projectinginboldrelieffromtheperpendicularcliffoftheParana。Theywere,however,socompletelydecayed,thatIcouldonlybringawaysmallfragmentsofoneofthegreatmolarteeth;butthesearesufficienttoshowthattheremainsbelongedtoaMastodon,probablytothesamespecieswiththat,whichformerlymusthaveinhabitedtheCordillerainUpperPeruinsuchgreatnumbers。Themenwhotookmeinthecanoe,saidtheyhadlongknownoftheseskeletons,andhadoftenwonderedhowtheyhadgotthere:thenecessityofatheorybeingfelt,theycametotheconclusionthat,likethebizcacha,themastodonwasformerlyaburrowinganimal!

  Intheeveningwerodeanotherstage,andcrossedtheMonge,anotherbrackishstream,bearingthedregsofthewashingsofthePampas。

  October2nd——WepassedthroughCorunda,which,fromtheluxurianceofitsgardens,wasoneoftheprettiestvillagesIsaw。FromthispointtoSt。Fetheroadisnotverysafe。ThewesternsideoftheParananorthward,ceasestobeinhabited;andhencetheIndianssometimescomedownthusfar,andwaylaytravellers。Thenatureofthecountryalsofavoursthis,forinsteadofagrassyplain,thereisanopenwoodland,composedoflowpricklymimosas。Wepassedsomehousesthathadbeenransackedandsincedeserted;wesawalsoaspectacle,whichmyguidesviewedwithhighsatisfaction;

  itwastheskeletonofanIndianwiththedriedskinhangingonthebones,suspendedtothebranchofatree。

  InthemorningwearrivedatSt。Fe。IwassurprisedtoobservehowgreatachangeofclimateadifferenceofonlythreedegreesoflatitudebetweenthisplaceandBuenosAyreshadcaused。Thiswasevidentfromthedressandcomplexionofthemen——fromtheincreasedsizeoftheombu-trees——thenumberofnewcactiandotherplants——andespeciallyfromthebirds。InthecourseofanhourIremarkedhalf-a-dozenbirds,whichI

  hadneverseenatBuenosAyres。Consideringthatthereisnonaturalboundarybetweenthetwoplaces,andthatthecharacterofthecountryisnearlysimilar,thedifferencewasmuchgreaterthanIshouldhaveexpected。

  October3rdand4th——Iwasconfinedforthesetwodaystomybedbyaheadache。Agood-naturedoldwoman,whoattendedme,wishedmetotrymanyoddremedies。Acommonpracticeis,tobindanorange-leaforabitofblackplastertoeachtemple:andastillmoregeneralplanis,tosplitabeanintohalves,moistenthem,andplaceoneoneachtemple,wheretheywilleasilyadhere。Itisnotthoughtproperevertoremovethebeansorplaster,buttoallowthemtodropoff,andsometimes,ifaman,withpatchesonhishead,isasked,whatisthematter?hewillanswer,“Ihadaheadachethedaybeforeyesterday。”Manyoftheremediesusedbythepeopleofthecountryareludicrouslystrange,buttoodisgustingtobementioned。Oneoftheleastnastyistokillandcutopentwopuppiesandbindthemoneachsideofabrokenlimb。Littlehairlessdogsareingreatrequesttosleepatthefeetofinvalids。

  St。Feisaquietlittletown,andiskeptcleanandingoodorder。

  Thegovernor,Lopez,wasacommonsoldieratthetimeoftherevolution;

  buthasnowbeenseventeenyearsinpower。Thisstabilityofgovernmentisowingtohistyrannicalhabits;fortyrannyseemsasyetbetteradaptedtothesecountriesthanrepublicanism。Thegovernor’sfavouriteoccupationishuntingIndians:ashorttimesinceheslaughteredforty-eight,andsoldthechildrenattherateofthreeorfourpoundsapiece。

  October5th——WecrossedtheParanatoSt。FeBajada,atownontheoppositeshore。Thepassagetooksomehours,astheriverhereconsistedofalabyrinthofsmallstreams,separatedbylowwoodedislands。IhadaletterofintroductiontoanoldCatalonianSpaniard,whotreatedmewiththemostuncommonhospitality。TheBajadaisthecapitalofEntreRios。In1825thetowncontained6000inhabitants,andtheprovince30,000;

  yet,fewastheinhabitantsare,noprovincehassufferedmorefrombloodyanddesperaterevolutions。Theyboasthereofrepresentatives,ministers,astandingarmy,andgovernors:soitisnowonderthattheyhavetheirrevolutions。AtsomefuturedaythismustbeoneoftherichestcountriesofLaPlata。Thesoilisvariedandproductive;anditsalmostinsularformgivesittwograndlinesofcommunicationbytheriversParanaandUruguay。

  Iwasdelayedherefivedays,andemployedmyselfinexaminingthegeologyofthesurroundingcountry,whichwasveryinteresting。Wehereseeatthebottomofthecliffs,bedscontainingsharks’teethandsea-shellsofextinctspecies,passingaboveintoaninduratedmarl,andfromthatintotheredclayeyearthofthePampas,withitscalcareousconcretionsandthebonesofterrestrialquadrupeds。Thisverticalsectionclearlytellsusofalargebayofpuresalt-water,graduallyencroachedon,andatlastconvertedintothebedofamuddyestuary,intowhichfloatingcarcasseswereswept。AtPuntaGorda,inBandaOriental,IfoundanalternationofthePampaeanestuarydeposit,withalimestonecontainingsomeofthesameextinctsea-shells;andthisshowseitherachangeintheformercurrents,ormoreprobablyanoscillationoflevelinthebottomoftheancientestuary。

  Untillately,myreasonsforconsideringthePampaeanformationtobeanestuarydepositwere,itsgeneralappearance,itspositionatthemouthoftheexistinggreatriverthePlata,andthepresenceofsomanybonesofterrestrialquadrupeds:butnowProfessorEhrenberghashadthekindnesstoexamineformealittleoftheredearth,takenfromlowdowninthedeposit,closetotheskeletonsofthemastodon,andhefindsinitmanyinfusoria,partlysalt-waterandpartlyfresh-waterforms,withthelatterratherpreponderating;andtherefore,asheremarks,thewatermusthavebeenbrackish。M。A。d’OrbignyfoundonthebanksoftheParana,attheheightofahundredfeet,greatbedsofanestuaryshell,nowlivingahundredmileslowerdownnearerthesea;andIfoundsimilarshellsatalessheightonthebanksoftheUruguay;thisshowsthatjustbeforethePampaswasslowlyelevatedintodryland,thewatercoveringitwasbrackish。BelowBuenosAyresthereareupraisedbedsofsea-shellsofexistingspecies,whichalsoprovesthattheperiodofelevationofthePampaswaswithintherecentperiod。

  InthePampaeandepositattheBajadaIfoundtheosseousarmourofagiganticarmadillo-likeanimal,theinsideofwhich,whentheearthwasremoved,waslikeagreatcauldron;IfoundalsoteethoftheToxodonandMastodon,andonetoothofaHorse,inthesamestainedanddecayedstate。

  Thislattertoothgreatlyinterestedme,[3]andI

  tookscrupulouscareinascertainingthatithadbeenembeddedcontemporaneouslywiththeotherremains;forIwasnotthenawarethatamongstthefossilsfromBahiaBlancatherewasahorse’stoothhiddeninthematrix:norwasitthenknownwithcertaintythattheremainsofhorsesarecommoninNorthAmerica。Mr。LyellhaslatelybroughtfromtheUnitedStatesatoothofahorse;anditisaninterestingfact,thatProfessorOwencouldfindinnospecies,eitherfossilorrecent,aslightbutpeculiarcurvaturecharacterizingit,untilhethoughtofcomparingitwithmyspecimenfoundhere:hehasnamedthisAmericanhorseEquuscurvidens。CertainlyitisamarvellousfactinthehistoryoftheMammalia,thatinSouthAmericaanativehorseshouldhavelivedanddisappeared,tobesucceededinafter-

  agesbythecountlessherdsdescendedfromthefewintroducedwiththeSpanishcolonists!

  TheexistenceinSouthAmericaofafossilhorse,ofthemastodon,possiblyofanelephant,[4]andofahollow-hornedruminant,discoveredbyMM。LundandClauseninthecavesofBrazil,arehighlyinterestingfactswithrespecttothegeographicaldistributionofanimals。Atthepresenttime,ifwedivideAmerica,notbytheIsthmusofPanama,butbythesouthernpartofMexico[5]inlat。20degs。,wherethegreattable-landpresentsanobstacletothemigrationofspecies,byaffectingtheclimate,andbyforming,withtheexceptionofsomevalleysandofafringeoflowlandonthecoast,abroadbarrier;weshallthenhavethetwozoologicalprovincesofNorthandSouthAmericastronglycontrastedwitheachother。Somefewspeciesalonehavepassedthebarrier,andmaybeconsideredaswanderersfromthesouth,suchasthepuma,opossum,kinkajou,andpeccari。SouthAmericaischaracterizedbypossessingmanypeculiargnawers,afamilyofmonkeys,thellama,peccari,tapir,opossums,and,especially,severalgeneraofEdentata,theorderwhichincludesthesloths,ant-eaters,andarmadilloes。NorthAmerica,ontheotherhand,ischaracterizedputtingononesideafewwanderingspeciesbynumerouspeculiargnawers,andbyfourgeneratheox,sheep,goat,andantelopeofhollow-hornedruminants,ofwhichgreatdivisionSouthAmericaisnotknowntopossessasinglespecies。Formerly,butwithintheperiodwhenmostofthenowexistingshellswereliving,NorthAmericapossessed,besideshollow-hornedruminants,theelephant,mastodon,horse,andthreegeneraofEdentata,namely,theMegatherium,Megalonyx,andMylodon。WithinnearlythissameperiodasprovedbytheshellsatBahiaBlancaSouthAmericapossessed,aswehavejustseen,amastodon,horse,hollow-hornedruminant,andthesamethreegeneraaswellasseveralothersoftheEdentata。HenceitisevidentthatNorthandSouthAmerica,inhavingwithinalategeologicalperiodtheseseveralgeneraincommon,weremuchmorecloselyrelatedinthecharacteroftheirterrestrialinhabitantsthantheynoware。ThemoreIreflectonthiscase,themoreinterestingitappears:Iknowofnootherinstancewherewecanalmostmarktheperiodandmannerofthesplittingupofonegreatregionintotwowell-characterizedzoologicalprovinces。

  Thegeologist,whoisfullyimpressedwiththevastoscillationsoflevelwhichhaveaffectedtheearth’scrustwithinlateperiods,willnotfeartospeculateontherecentelevationoftheMexicanplatform,or,moreprobably,ontherecentsubmergenceoflandintheWestIndianArchipelago,asthecauseofthepresentzoologicalseparationofNorthandSouthAmerica。

  TheSouthAmericancharacteroftheWestIndianmammals[6]seemstoindicatethatthisarchipelagowasformerlyunitedtothesoutherncontinent,andthatithassubsequentlybeenanareaofsubsidence。

点击下载App,搜索"THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE",免费读到尾