Inthemorningweallsalliedforthtohunt，andalthoughwehadnotmuchsuccess，thereweresomeanimatedchases。Soonafterstartingthepartyseparated，andsoarrangedtheirplans，thatatacertaintimeofthedayinguessingwhichtheyshowmuchskilltheyshouldallmeetfromdifferentpointsofthecompassonaplainpieceofground，andthusdrivetogetherthewildanimals。OnedayIwentouthuntingatBahiaBlanca，butthementheremerelyrodeinacrescent，eachbeingaboutaquarterofamileapartfromtheother。Afinemaleostrichbeingturnedbytheheadmostriders，triedtoescapeononeside。TheGauchospursuedatarecklesspace，twistingtheirhorsesaboutwiththemostadmirablecommand，andeachmanwhirlingtheballsroundhishead。Atlengththeforemostthrewthem，revolvingthroughtheair：inaninstanttheostrichrolledoverandover，itslegsfairlylashedtogetherbythethong。Theplainsaboundwiththreekindsofpartridge，[3]twoofwhichareaslargeashenpheasants。Theirdestroyer，asmallandprettyfox，wasalsosingularlynumerous；inthecourseofthedaywecouldnothaveseenlessthanfortyorfifty。Theyweregenerallyneartheirearths，butthedogskilledone。Whenwereturnedtotheposta，wefoundtwoofthepartyreturnedwhohadbeenhuntingbythemselves。Theyhadkilledapuma，andhadfoundanostrich’snestwithtwenty-seveneggsinit。Eachoftheseissaidtoequalinweightelevenhen’seggs；sothatweobtainedfromthisonenestasmuchfoodas297hen’seggswouldhavegiven。
September14th——Asthesoldiersbelongingtothenextpostameanttoreturn，andweshouldtogethermakeapartyoffive，andallarmed，Ideterminednottowaitfortheexpectedtroops。Myhost，thelieutenant，pressedmemuchtostop。Ashehadbeenveryobliging——notonlyprovidingmewithfood，butlendingmehisprivatehorses——Iwantedtomakehimsomeremuneration。IaskedmyguidewhetherImightdoso，buthetoldmecertainlynot；thattheonlyanswerIshouldreceive，probablywouldbe，“Wehavemeatforthedogsinourcountry，andthereforedonotgrudgeittoaChristian。”Itmustnotbesupposedthattherankoflieutenantinsuchanarmywouldatallpreventtheacceptanceofpayment：itwasonlythehighsenseofhospitality，whicheverytravellerisboundtoacknowledgeasnearlyuniversalthroughouttheseprovinces。Aftergallopingsomeleagues，wecametoalowswampycountry，whichextendsfornearlyeightymilesnorthward，asfarastheSierraTapalguen。Insomepartstherewerefinedampplains，coveredwithgrass，whileothershadasoft，black，andpeatysoil。Therewerealsomanyextensivebutshallowlakes，andlargebedsofreeds。ThecountryonthewholeresembledthebetterpartsoftheCambridgeshirefens。Atnightwehadsomedifficultyinfindingamidsttheswamps，adryplaceforourbivouac。
September15th——RoseveryearlyinthemorningandshortlyafterpassedthepostawheretheIndianshadmurderedthefivesoldiers。Theofficerhadeighteenchuzowoundsinhisbody。Bythemiddleoftheday，afterahardgallop，wereachedthefifthposta：onaccountofsomedifficultyinprocuringhorseswestayedtherethenight。Asthispointwasthemostexposedonthewholeline，twenty-onesoldierswerestationedhere；atsunsettheyreturnedfromhunting，bringingwiththemsevendeer，threeostriches，andmanyarmadilloesandpartridges。Whenridingthroughthecountry，itisacommonpracticetosetfiretotheplain；andhenceatnight，asonthisoccasion，thehorizonwasilluminatedinseveralplacesbybrilliantconflagrations。ThisisdonepartlyforthesakeofpuzzlinganystrayIndians，butchieflyforimprovingthepasture。Ingrassyplainsunoccupiedbythelargerruminatingquadrupeds，itseemsnecessarytoremovethesuperfluousvegetationbyfire，soastorenderthenewyear’sgrowthserviceable。
Theranchoatthisplacedidnotboastevenofaroof，butmerelyconsistedofaringofthistle-stalks，tobreaktheforceofthewind。Itwassituatedonthebordersofanextensivebutshallowlake，swarmingwithwildfowl，amongwhichtheblack-neckedswanwasconspicuous。
Thekindofplover，whichappearsasifmountedonstiltsHimantopusnigricollis，isherecommoninflocksofconsiderablesize。Ithasbeenwrongfullyaccusedofinelegance；whenwadingaboutinshallowwater，whichisitsfavouriteresort，itsgaitisfarfromawkward。Thesebirdsinaflockutteranoise，thatsingularlyresemblesthecryofapackofsmalldogsinfullchase：wakinginthenight，Ihavemorethanoncebeenforamomentstartledatthedistantsound。Theteru-teroVanelluscayanus
isanotherbird，whichoftendisturbsthestillnessofthenight。Inappearanceandhabitsitresemblesinmanyrespectsourpeewits；itswings，however，arearmedwithsharpspurs，likethoseonthelegsofthecommoncock。
Asourpeewittakesitsnamefromthesoundofitsvoice，sodoestheteru-tero。
Whileridingoverthegrassyplains，oneisconstantlypursuedbythesebirds，whichappeartohatemankind，andIamsuredeservetobehatedfortheirnever-ceasing，unvaried，harshscreams。Tothesportsmantheyaremostannoying，bytellingeveryotherbirdandanimalofhisapproach：
tothetravellerinthecountry，theymaypossibly，asMolinasays，dogood，bywarninghimofthemidnightrobber。Duringthebreedingseason，theyattempt，likeourpeewits，byfeigningtobewounded，todrawawayfromtheirnestsdogsandotherenemies。Theeggsofthisbirdareesteemedagreatdelicacy。
September16th——TotheseventhpostaatthefootoftheSierraTapalguen。
Thecountrywasquitelevel，withacoarseherbageandasoftpeatysoil。
Thehovelwashereremarkablyneat，thepostsandraftersbeingmadeofaboutadozendrythistle-stalksboundtogetherwiththongsofhide；andbythesupportoftheseIonic-likecolumns，theroofandsideswerethatchedwithreeds。Wewereheretoldafact，whichIwouldnothavecredited，ifIhadnothadpartlyocularproofofit；namely，that，duringthepreviousnighthailaslargeassmallapples，andextremelyhard，hadfallenwithsuchviolence，astokillthegreaternumberofthewildanimals。OneofthemenhadalreadyfoundthirteendeerCervuscampestrislyingdead，andIsawtheir_fresh_hides；anotheroftheparty，afewminutesaftermyarrivalbroughtinsevenmore。NowIwellknow，thatonemanwithoutdogscouldhardlyhavekilledsevendeerinaweek。Themenbelievedtheyhadseenaboutfifteenostrichespartofoneofwhichwehadfordinner；
andtheysaidthatseveralwererunningaboutevidentlyblindinoneeye。
Numbersofsmallerbirds，asducks，hawks，andpartridges，werekilled。
Isawoneofthelatterwithablackmarkonitsback，asifithadbeenstruckwithapaving-stone。Afenceofthistle-stalksroundthehovelwasnearlybrokendown，andmyinformer，puttinghisheadouttoseewhatwasthematter，receivedaseverecut，andnowworeabandage。Thestormwassaidtohavebeenoflimitedextent：wecertainlysawfromourlastnight’sbivouacadensecloudandlightninginthisdirection。Itismarvelloushowsuchstronganimalsasdeercouldthushavebeenkilled；butIhavenodoubt，fromtheevidenceIhavegiven，thatthestoryisnotintheleastexaggerated。Iamglad，however，tohaveitscredibilitysupportedbytheJesuitDobrizhoffen，[4]who，speakingofacountrymuchtothenorthward，says，hailfellofanenormoussizeandkilledvastnumbersofcattle：theIndianshencecalledtheplace_Lalegraicavalca_，meaning“thelittlewhitethings。”Dr。Malcolmson，also，informsmethathewitnessedin1831inIndia，ahail-storm，whichkillednumbersoflargebirdsandmuchinjuredthecattle。Thesehailstoneswereflat，andonewasteninchesincircumference，andanotherweighedtwoounces。Theyploughedupagravel-walklikemusket-balls，andpassedthroughglass-windows，makingroundholes，butnotcrackingthem。
Havingfinishedourdinner，ofhail-strickenmeat，wecrossedtheSierraTapalguen；alowrangeofhills，afewhundredfeetinheight，whichcommencesatCapeCorrientes。Therockinthispartispurequartz；furthereastwardIunderstanditisgranitic。Thehillsareofaremarkableform；theyconsistofflatpatchesoftable-land，surroundedbylowperpendicularcliffs，liketheoutliersofasedimentarydeposit。ThehillwhichIascendedwasverysmall，notaboveacoupleofhundredyardsindiameter；butIsawotherslarger。Onewhichgoesbythenameofthe“Corral。”issaidtobetwoorthreemilesindiameter，andencompassedbyperpendicularcliffs，betweenthirtyandfortyfeethigh，exceptingatonespot，wheretheentrancelies。Falconer[5]givesacuriousaccountoftheIndiansdrivingtroopsofwildhorsesintoit，andthenbyguardingtheentrance，keepingthemsecure。Ihaveneverheardofanyotherinstanceoftable-landinaformationofquartz，andwhich，inthehillIexamined，hadneithercleavagenorstratification。Iwastoldthattherockofthe“Corral“waswhite，andwouldstrikefire。
WedidnotreachthepostaontheRioTapalguentillafteritwasdark。
Atsupper，fromsomethingwhichwassaid，IwassuddenlystruckwithhorroratthinkingthatIwaseatingoneofthefavouritedishesofthecountrynamely，ahalf-formedcalf，longbeforeitspropertimeofbirth。ItturnedouttobePuma；themeatisverywhiteandremarkablylikevealintaste。
Dr。Shawwaslaughedatforstatingthat“thefleshofthelionisingreatesteemhavingnosmallaffinitywithveal，bothincolour，taste，andflavour。”
SuchcertainlyisthecasewiththePuma。TheGauchosdifferintheiropinion，whethertheJaguarisgoodeating，butareunanimousinsayingthatcatisexcellent。
September17th——WefollowedthecourseoftheRioTapalguen，throughaveryfertilecountry，totheninthposta。Tapalguen，itself，orthetownofTapalguen，ifitmaybesocalled，consistsofaperfectlylevelplain，studdedover，asfarastheeyecanreach，withthetoldosoroven-shapedhutsoftheIndians。ThefamiliesofthefriendlyIndians，whowerefightingonthesideofRosas，residedhere。WemetandpassedmanyyoungIndianwomen，ridingbytwoorthreetogetheronthesamehorse：they，aswellasmanyoftheyoungmen，werestrikinglyhandsome，——theirfineruddycomplexionsbeingthepictureofhealth。Besidesthetoldos，therewerethreeranchos；oneinhabitedbytheCommandant，andthetwoothersbySpaniardswithsmallshops。
Wewerehereabletobuysomebiscuit。Ihadnowbeenseveraldayswithouttastinganythingbesidesmeat：Ididnotatalldislikethisnewregimen；
butIfeltasifitwouldonlyhaveagreedwithmewithhardexercise。
IhaveheardthatpatientsinEngland，whendesiredtoconfinethemselvesexclusivelytoananimaldiet，evenwiththehopeoflifebeforetheireyes，havehardlybeenabletoendureit。YettheGauchointhePampas，formonthstogether，touchesnothingbutbeef。Buttheyeat，Iobserve，averylargeproportionoffat，whichisofalessanimalizednature；andtheyparticularlydislikedrymeat，suchasthatoftheAgouti。Dr。Richardson[6]also，hasremarked，“thatwhenpeoplehavefedforalongtimesolelyuponleananimalfood，thedesireforfatbecomessoinsatiable，thattheycanconsumealargequantityofunmixedandevenoilyfatwithoutnausea：“thisappearstomeacuriousphysiologicalfact。
Itis，perhaps，fromtheirmeatregimenthattheGauchos，likeothercarnivorousanimals，canabstainlongfromfood。IwastoldthatatTandeel，sometroopsvoluntarilypursuedapartyofIndiansforthreedays，withouteatingordrinking。
Wesawintheshopsmanyarticles，suchashorsecloths，belts，andgarters，wovenbytheIndianwomen。Thepatternswereverypretty，andthecoloursbrilliant；theworkmanshipofthegarterswassogoodthatanEnglishmerchantatBuenosAyresmaintainedtheymusthavebeenmanufacturedinEngland，tillhefoundthetasselshadbeenfastenedbysplitsinew。
September18th——Wehadaverylongridethisday。Atthetwelfthposta，whichissevenleaguessouthoftheRioSalado，wecametothefirstestanciawithcattleandwhitewomen。Afterwardswehadtorideformanymilesthroughacountryfloodedwithwateraboveourhorses’knees。Bycrossingthestirrups，andridingArab-likewithourlegsbentup，wecontrivedtokeeptolerablydry。ItwasnearlydarkwhenwearrivedattheSalado；
thestreamwasdeep，andaboutfortyyardswide；insummer，however，itsbedbecomesalmostdry，andthelittleremainingwaternearlyassaltasthatofthesea。WesleptatoneofthegreatestanciasofGeneralRosas。
Itwasfortified，andofsuchanextent，thatarrivinginthedarkIthoughtitwasatownandfortress。Inthemorningwesawimmenseherdsofcattle，thegeneralherehavingseventy-foursquareleaguesofland。Formerlynearlythreehundredmenwereemployedaboutthisestate，andtheydefiedalltheattacksoftheIndians。
September19th——PassedtheGuardiadelMonte。Thisisanicescatteredlittletown，withmanygardens，fullofpeachandquincetrees。TheplainherelookedlikethataroundBuenosAyres；theturfbeingshortandbrightgreen，withbedsofcloverandthistles，andwithbizcachaholes。IwasverymuchstruckwiththemarkedchangeintheaspectofthecountryafterhavingcrossedtheSalado。Fromacoarseherbagewepassedontoacarpetoffinegreenverdure。Iatfirstattributedthistosomechangeinthenatureofthesoil，buttheinhabitantsassuredmethathere，aswellasinBandaOriental，wherethereisasgreatadifferencebetweenthecountryroundMonteVideoandthethinly-inhabitedsavannahsofColonia，thewholewastobeattributedtothemanuringandgrazingofthecattle。Exactlythesamefacthasbeenobservedintheprairies[7]ofNorthAmerica，wherecoarsegrass，betweenfiveandsixfeethigh，whengrazedbycattle，changesintocommonpastureland。Iamnotbotanistenoughtosaywhetherthechangehereisowingtotheintroductionofnewspecies，tothealteredgrowthofthesame，ortoadifferenceintheirproportionalnumbers。Azarahasalsoobservedwithastonishmentthischange：heislikewisemuchperplexedbytheimmediateappearanceofplantsnotoccurringintheneighbourhood，onthebordersofanytrackthatleadstoanewly-constructedhovel。Inanotherparthesays，[8]“ceschevauxsauvages
ontlamaniedeprefererleschemins，etleborddesroutespourdeposerleursexcremens，dontontrouvedesmonceauxdanscesendroits。”Doesthisnotpartlyexplainthecircumstance？Wethushavelinesofrichlymanuredlandservingaschannelsofcommunicationacrosswidedistricts。