Thefirsteditionofthiswork，publishedearlyinJanuary，1877，containedtheconcentratedresultsofmystudiesduringan，uninterruptedresidenceofsixyearsinRussia——fromthebeginning，of1870totheendof1875。SincethattimeIhavespentinthe，EuropeanandCentralAsianprovinces，atdifferentperiods，nearly，twoyearsmore;andintheintervalsIhaveendeavouredtokeepin，touchwiththeprogressofevents。Myobservationsthusextend，overaperiodofthirty-fiveyears。
WhenIbegan，afewmonthsago，toprepareforpublicationthe，resultsofmymorerecentobservationsandresearches，myintention，wastowriteanentirelynewworkunderthetitleof“Russiainthe，TwentiethCentury，“butIsoonperceivedthatitwouldbe，impossibletoexplainclearlythepresentstateofthingswithout，referringconstantlytoeventsofthepast，andthatIshouldbe，obligedtoembodyinthenewworkalargeportionoftheoldone。
Theportiontobeembodiedgrewrapidlytosuchproportionsthat，inthecourseofafewweeks，Ibegantoaskmyselfwhetherit，wouldnotbebettersimplytorecastandcompletemyoldmaterial。
WithaviewtodecidingthequestionIpreparedalistofthe，principalchangeswhichhadtakenplaceduringthelastquarterof，acentury，andwhenIhadmarshalledtheminlogicalorder，I
recognisedthattheywereneithersonumerousnorsoimportantasI
hadsupposed。Certainlytherehadbeenmuchprogress，butithad，beennearlyallontheoldlines。EverywhereIperceived，continuityandevolution;nowherecouldIdiscoverradicalchanges，andnewdepartures。Inthecentralandlocaladministrationthe，reactionarypolicyofthelatterhalfofAlexanderII。’sreignhad，beensteadilymaintained;therevolutionarymovementhadwaxedand，waned，butitsaimswereessentiallythesameasofold;theChurch，hadremainedinitsusualsomnolentcondition;agraveagricultural，crisisaffectinglandedproprietorsandpeasantshadbegun，butit，wasmerelyadevelopmentofastateofthingswhichIhad，previouslydescribed;themanufacturingindustryhadmadegigantic，strides，buttheywereallinthedirectionwhichthemost，competentobservershadpredicted;inforeignpolicytheold，principlesofguidingthenaturalexpansiveforcesalongthelines，ofleastresistance，seekingtoreachwarm-waterports，andpegging，outterritorialclaimsforthefuturewerepersistentlyfollowed。
Nodoubttherewereprettyclearindicationsofmoreradical，changestocome，butthesechangesmustbelongtothefuture，and，itismerelywiththepastandthepresentthatawriterwhohasno，pretensionstobeingaprophethastodeal。
Underthesecircumstancesitseemedtomeadvisabletoadopta，middlecourse。InsteadofwritinganentirelynewworkI
determinedtoprepareamuchextendedandamplifiededitionofthe，oldone，retainingsuchinformationaboutthepastasseemedtome，ofpermanentvalue，andatthesametimemeetingasfaraspossible，therequirementsofthosewhowishtoknowthepresentconditionof，thecountry。
InaccordancewiththisviewIhaverevised，rearranged，and，supplementedtheoldmaterialinthelightofsubsequentevents，andIhaveaddedfiveentirelynewchapters——threeonthe，revolutionarymovement，whichhascomeintoprominencesince1877;
oneontheindustrialprogress，withwhichthelatestphaseofthe，movementiscloselyconnected;andoneonthemainlinesofthe，presentsituationasitappearstomeatthemomentofgoingto，press。
DuringthemanyyearswhichIhavedevotedtothestudyofRussia，Ihavereceivedunstintedassistancefrommanydifferentquarters。
Ofthefriendswhooriginallyfacilitatedmytask，andtowhomI
expressedmygratitudeintheprefaceandnotesoftheearly，editions，onlythreesurvive——Mme。deNovikoff，M。E。I。Yakushkin，andDr。Asher。Tothenumerousfriendswhohavekindlyassistedme，inthepresenteditionImustexpressmythankscollectively，but，therearetwowhostandoutfromthegroupsoprominentlythatI
maybeallowedtomentionthempersonally：thesearePrince，AlexanderGrigorievitchStcherbatof，whosuppliedmewith，voluminousmaterialsregardingtheagrarianquestiongenerallyand，thepresentconditionofthepeasantryinparticular，andM。Albert，Brockhaus，whoplacedatmydisposalthegiganticRussian，EncyclopaediarecentlypublishedbyhisfirmEntsiklopeditcheski，Slovar，LeipzigandSt。Petersburg，1890-1904。Thismonumental，work，inforty-onevolumes，isaninexhaustiblestorehouseof，accurateandwell-digestedinformationonallsubjectsconnected，withtheRussianEmpire，andithasoftenbeenofgreatusetome，inmattersofdetail。
WithregardtothelastchapterofthiseditionImustclaimthe，reader’sindulgence，becausethemeaningofthetitle，“thepresent，situation，“changesfromdaytoday，andIcannotforeseewhat，furtherchangesmayoccurbeforetheworkreachesthehandsofthe，public。
LONDON，22ndMay，1905。
RUSSIA
CHAPTERI
TRAVELLINGINRUSSIA
Railways——StateInterference——RiverCommunications——Russian“Grand，Tour“——TheVolga——Kazan——ZhigulinskiyaGori——FinnsandTartars——The，Don——DifficultiesofNavigation——Discomforts——Rats——Hotelsand，TheirPeculiarCustoms——Roads——HibernianPhraseologyExplained——
Bridges——Posting——ATarantass——RequisitesforTravelling——
TravellinginWinter——Frostbitten——DisagreeableEpisodes——Sceneat，aPost-Station。
OfcoursetravellinginRussiaisnolongerwhatitwas。During，thelasthalfcenturyavastnetworkofrailwayshasbeen，constructed，andonecannowtravelinacomfortablefirst-class，carriagefromBerlintoSt。PetersburgorMoscow，andthenceto，Odessa，Sebastopol，theLowerVolga，theCaucasus，CentralAsia，or，EasternSiberia。Untiltheoutbreakofthewartherewasatrain，twiceaweek，withthroughcarriages，fromMoscowtoPortArthur。
Anditmustbeadmittedthatonthemainlinesthepassengershave，notmuchtocomplainof。Thecarriagesaredecidedlybetterthan，inEngland，andinwintertheyarekeptwarmbysmallironstoves，assistedbydoublewindowsanddoubledoors——averynecessary，precautioninalandwherethethermometeroftendescendsto30
degreesbelowzero。Thetrainneverattains，itistrue，ahigh，rateofspeed——soatleastEnglishandAmericansthink——butthenwe，mustrememberthatRussiansarerarelyinahurry，andliketohave，frequentopportunitiesofeatinganddrinking。InRussiatimeis，notmoney;ifitwere，nearlyallthesubjectsoftheTsarwould，alwayshavealargestockofreadymoneyonhand，andwouldoften，havegreatdifficultyinspendingit。Inreality，beit，parentheticallyremarked，aRussianwithasuperabundanceofready，moneyisaphenomenonrarelymetwithinreallife。
Inconveyingpassengersattherateoffromfifteentothirtymiles，anhour，therailwaycompaniesdoatleastallthattheypromise;
butinoneveryimportantrespecttheydonotalwaysstrictly，fulfiltheirengagements。Thetravellertakesaticketfora，certaintown，andonarrivingatwhatheimaginestobehis，destination，hemayfindmerelyarailway-stationsurroundedby，fields。Onmakinginquiries，hediscovers，tohisdisappointment，thatthestationisbynomeansidenticalwiththetownbearingthe，samename，andthattherailwayhasfallenseveralmilesshortof，fulfillingthebargain，asheunderstoodthetermsofthecontract。
Indeed，itmightalmostbesaidthatasageneralrulerailwaysin，Russia，likecamel-driversincertainEasterncountries，studiously，avoidthetowns。Thisseemsatfirstastrangefact。Itis，possibletoconceivethattheBedouinissoenamouredoftentlife，andnomadichabitsthatheshunsatownashewouldaman-trap;but，surelycivilengineersandrailwaycontractorshavenosuchdread，ofbrickandmortar。Thetruereason，Isuspect，isthatland，withinorimmediatelybeyondthemunicipalbarrierisrelatively，dear，andthattherailways，beingcompletelybeyondthe，invigoratinginfluenceofhealthycompetition，canaffordtolook，uponthecomfortandconvenienceofpassengersasasecondary，consideration。Gradually，itistrue，thisstateofthingsis，beingimprovedbyprivateinitiative。Astherailwaysrefuseto，cometothetowns，thetownsareextendingtowardstherailways，andalreadysomeprophetsarefoundboldenoughtopredictthatin，thecourseoftimethoselong，new，stragglingstreets，withoutan，inhabitedhinterland，whichatpresenttrysoseverelythesprings，oftherickettydroshkis，willbeproperlypavedandkeptindecent，repair。Formyownpart，IconfessIamalittlescepticalwith，regardtothisprediction，andIcanonlyuseafavourite，expressionoftheRussianpeasants——daiBog！，Godgrantitmaybe，so！
Itisbutfairtostatethatinonecelebratedinstanceneither，engineersnorrailwaycontractorsweredirectlytoblame。FromSt。
PetersburgtoMoscowthelocomotiverunsforadistanceof400
milesalmostas“thecrow“issupposedtofly，turningneitherto，therighthandnortotheleft。Fortwelvewearyhoursthe，passengerintheexpresstrainlooksoutonforestandmorass，and，rarelycatchessightofhumanhabitation。Onlyonceheperceives，inthedistancewhatmaybecalledatown;itisTverwhichhas，beenthusfavoured，notbecauseitisaplaceofimportance，but，simplybecauseithappenedtobenearthebee-line。Andwhywas，therailwayconstructedinthisextraordinaryfashion？，Forthe，bestofallreasons——becausetheTsarsoorderedit。Whenthe，preliminarysurveywasbeingmade，NicholasI。learnedthatthe，officersentrustedwiththetask——andtheMinisterofWaysand，Roadsinthenumber——werebeinginfluencedmorebypersonalthan，technicalconsiderations，andhedeterminedtocuttheGordianknot，intrueImperialstyle。WhentheMinisterlaidbeforehimthemap，withtheintentionofexplainingtheproposedroute，hetooka，ruler，drewastraightlinefromtheoneterminustotheother，and，remarkedinatonethatprecludedalldiscussion，“Youwill，constructthelineso！”Andthelinewassoconstructed——remaining，toallfutureages，likeSt。PetersburgandthePyramids，a，magnificentmonumentofautocraticpower。
Formerlythiswell-knownincidentwasoftencitedinwhispered，philippicstoillustratetheevilsoftheautocraticformof，government。Imperialwhims，itwassaid，over-ridegraveeconomic，considerations。Inrecentyears，however，achangeseemstohave，takenplaceinpublicopinion，andsomepeoplenowassertthatthis，so-calledImperialwhimwasanactoffar-seeingpolicy。Asbyfar，thegreaterpartofthegoodsandpassengersarecarriedthewhole，lengthoftheline，itiswellthatthelineshouldbeasshortas，possible，andthatbranchlinesshouldbeconstructedtothetowns，lyingtotherightandleft。Evidentlythereisagooddealtobe，saidinfavourofthisview。
Inthedevelopmentoftherailwaysystemtherehasbeenanother，disturbingcause，whichisnotlikelytooccurtotheEnglishmind。
InEngland，individualsandcompanieshabituallyactaccordingto，theirprivateinterests，andtheStateinterferesaslittleas，possible;privateinitiativedoesasitpleases，unlessthe，authoritiescanprovethatimportantbadconsequenceswill，necessarilyresult。InRussia，theonusprobandiliesontheother，side;privateinitiativeisallowedtodonothinguntilitgives，guaranteesagainstallpossiblebadconsequences。Whenanygreat，enterpriseisprojected，thefirstquestionis——“Howwillthisnew，schemeaffecttheinterestsoftheState？”Thus，whenthecourse，ofanewrailwayhastobedetermined，themilitaryauthoritiesare，amongthefirsttobeconsulted，andtheiropinionhasagreat，influenceontheultimatedecision。Thenaturalconsequenceis，thattherailway-mapofRussiapresentstotheeyeofthe，strategistmuchthatisquiteunintelligibletotheordinary，observer——afactthatwillbecomeapparenteventotheuninitiated，assoonasawarbreaksoutinEasternEurope。Russiaisnolonger，whatshewasinthedaysoftheCrimeanWar，whentroopsandstores，hadtobeconveyedhundredsofmilesbythemostprimitivemeansof，transport。Atthattimeshehadonly750milesofrailway;nowshe，hasover36，000miles，andeveryyearnewlinesareconstructed。
Thewater-communicationhaslikewiseinrecentyearsbeengreatly，improved。Ontheprincipalriverstherearenowgoodsteamers。
Unfortunately，theclimateputsseriousobstructionsinthewayof，navigation。Fornearlyhalfoftheyeartheriversarecovered，withice，andduringagreatpartoftheopenseasonnavigationis，difficult。Whentheiceandsnowmelttheriversoverflowtheir，banksandlayagreatpartofthelow-lyingcountryunderwater，so，thatmanyvillagescanonlybeapproachedinboats;butverysoon，thefloodsubsides，andthewaterfallssorapidlythatby，midsummerthelargersteamershavegreatdifficultyinpicking，theirwayamongthesandbanks。TheNevaalone——thatqueenof，northernrivers——hasatalltimesaplentifulsupplyofwater。
BesidestheNeva，theriverscommonlyvisitedbythetouristare，theVolgaandtheDon，whichformpartofwhatmaybecalledthe，Russiangrandtour。Englishmenwhowishtoseesomethingmorethan，St。PetersburgandMoscowgenerallygobyrailtoNizhni-Novgorod，wheretheyvisitthegreatfair，andthengetonboardoneofthe，Volgasteamers。Forthosewhohavemasteredtheimportantfact，thatRussiaisnotacountryoffinescenery，thevoyagedownthe，riverispleasantenough。Theleftbankisasflatasthebanksof，theRhinebelowCologne，buttherightbankishigh，occasionally，wellwooded，andnotdevoidofacertaintamepicturesqueness。
EarlyontheseconddaythesteamerreachesKazan，oncethecapital，ofanindependentTartarkhanate，andstillcontaininga，considerableTartarpopulation。SeveralmetchetsastheMahometan，housesofprayerareheretermed，withtheirdiminutiveminarets，inthelowerpartofthetown，showthatIslamismstillsurvives，thoughthekhanatewasannexedtoMuscovymorethanthreecenturies，ago;butthetown，asawhole，hasaEuropeanratherthanan，Asiaticcharacter。Ifanyonevisitsitinthehopeofgetting“a，glimpseoftheEast，“hewillbegrievouslydisappointed，unless，indeed，hehappenstobeoneofthoseimaginativetouristswho，alwaysdiscoverwhattheywishtosee。Andyetitmustbeadmitted，that，ofallthetownsontheroute，Kazanisthemostinteresting。
ThoughnotOriental，ithasapeculiarcharacterofitsown，whilst，alltheothers——Simbirsk，Samara，Saratof——areasuninterestingas，Russianprovincialtownscommonlyare。Thefullforceand，solemnityofthatexpressionwillbeexplainedinthesequel。
Probablyaboutsunriseonthethirddaysomethinglikearangeof，mountainswillappearonthehorizon。Itmaybewelltosayat，once，topreventdisappointment，thatinrealitynothingworthyof，thenameofmountainistobefoundinthatpartofthecountry。
Thenearestmountain-rangeinthatdirectionistheCaucasus，which，ishundredsofmilesdistant，andconsequentlycannotbyany，possibilitybeseenfromthedeckofasteamer。Theelevationsin，questionaresimplyalowrangeofhills，calledtheZhigulinskiya，Gori。InWesternEuropetheywouldnotattractmuchattention，but，“inthekingdomoftheblind，“astheFrenchproverbhasit，“the，one-eyedmanisking“;andinaflatregionlikeEasternRussia，thesehillsformaprominentfeature。Thoughtheyhavenothingof，Alpinegrandeur，yettheirwell-woodedslopes，comingdowntothe，water’sedge——especiallywhencoveredwiththedelicatetintsof，earlyspring，ortherichyellowandredofautumnalfoliage——leave，animpressiononthememorynoteasilyeffaced。
Onthewhole——withallduedeferencetotheopinionsofmy，patrioticRussianfriends——ImustsaythatVolgasceneryhardly，repaysthetime，troubleandexpensewhichavoyagefromNizhnito，Tsaritsindemands。Therearesomeprettybitshereandthere，but，theyare“fewandfarbetween。”，Aglassofthemostexquisitewine，dilutedwithagallonofwatermakesaveryinsipidbeverage。The，deckofthesteamerisgenerallymuchmoreinterestingthanthe，banksoftheriver。Thereonemeetswithcurioustravelling，companions。ThemajorityofthepassengersareprobablyRussian，peasants，whoarealwaysreadytochatfreelywithoutdemandinga，formalintroduction，andtorelate——withcertainrestrictions——toa，newacquaintancethesimplestoryoftheirlives。OftenIhave，thuswhiledawaythewearyhoursbothpleasantlyandprofitably，andhavealwaysbeenimpressedwiththepeasant’shomelycommon，sense，good-naturedkindliness，half-fatalisticresignation，and，strongdesiretolearnsomethingaboutforeigncountries。This，lastpeculiaritymakeshimquestionaswellascommunicate，andhis，questions，thoughsometimesapparentlychildish，aregenerallyto，thepoint。
Amongthepassengersareprobablyalsosomerepresentativesofthe，variousFinnishtribesinhabitingthispartofthecountry;they，maybeinterestingtotheethnologistwholovestostudy，physiognomy，buttheyarefarlesssociablethantheRussians。
Natureseemstohavemadethemsilentandmorose，whilsttheir，conditionsoflifehavemadethemshyanddistrustful。TheTartar，ontheotherhand，isalmostsuretobealivelyandamusing，companion。Mostprobablyheisapeddlerorsmalltraderofsome，kind。Thebundleonwhichhereclinescontainshisstock-in-trade，composed，perhaps，ofcottonprintedgoodsandespeciallybright-
colouredcottonhandkerchiefs。Hehimselfisenvelopedina，capaciousgreasykhalat，ordressing-gown，andwearsafurcap，thoughthethermometermaybeat90degreesintheshade。The，roguishtwinkleinhissmallpiercingeyescontrastsstronglywith，thesombre，stolidexpressionoftheFinnishpeasantssittingnear，him。HehasmuchtorelateaboutSt。Petersburg，Moscow，and，perhapsAstrakhan;but，likeagenuinetrader，heisveryreticent，regardingthemysteriesofhisowncraft。Towardssunsethe，retireswithhiscompanionstosomequietspotonthedeckto，reciteeveningprayers。HereallthegoodMahometansonboard，assembleandstroketheirbeards，kneelontheirlittlestripsof，carpetandprostratethemselves，allkeepingtimeasiftheywere，performingsomenewkindofdrillundertheeveofaseveredrill-
sergeant。
IfthevoyageismadeabouttheendofSeptember，whenthetraders，arereturninghomefromthefairatNizhni-Novgorod，the，ethnologistwillhaveastillbetteropportunityofstudy。Hewill，thenfindnotonlyrepresentativesoftheFinnishandTartarraces，butalsoArmenians，Circassians，Persians，Bokhariots，andother，Orientals——amotleyandpicturesquebutdecidedlyunsavourycargo。
Howevergreattheethnographicalvarietyonboardmaybe，the，travellerwillprobablyfindthatfourdaysontheVolgaarequite，enoughforallpracticalandaestheticpurposes，andinsteadof，goingontoAstrakhanhewillquitthesteameratTsaritsin。Here，hewillfindarailwayofaboutfiftymilesinlength，connecting，theVolgaandtheDon。Isayadvisedlyarailway，andnotatrain，becausetrainsonthislinearenotveryfrequent。WhenIfirst，visitedthelocality，thirtyyearsago，therewereonlytwoaweek，sothatifyouinadvertentlymissedonetrainyouhadtowaitabout，threedaysforthenext。Prudent，nervouspeoplepreferred，travellingbytheroad，forontherailwaythestrangejoltsand，mysteriouscreakingswereveryalarming。Ontheotherhandthe，pacewassoslowthatrunningofftherailswouldhavebeenmerely，anamusingepisode，andevenacollisioncouldscarcelyhavebeen，attendedwithseriousconsequences。Happilythingsareimproving，eveninthisoutlyingpartofthecountry。Nowthereisonetrain，daily，anditgoesatalessfunerealpace。
FromKalatch，attheDonendoftheline，asteamerstartsfor，Rostoff，whichissituatednearthemouthoftheriver。The，navigationoftheDonismuchmoredifficultthanthatofthe，Volga。Theriverisextremelyshallow，andthesand-banksare，continuallyshifting，sothatmanytimesinthecourseoftheday，thesteamerrunsaground。Sometimessheisgotoffbysimply，reversingtheengines，butnotunfrequentlyshestickssofastthat，theengineshavetobeassisted。Thisiseffectedinacurious，way。ThecaptainalwaysgivesanumberofstalwartCossacksafree，passageonconditionthattheywillgivehimtheassistancehe，requires;andassoonastheshipsticksfastheordersthemto，jumpoverboardwithastouthawserandhaulheroff！，Thetaskis，notapleasantone，especiallyasthepoorfellowscannot，afterwardschangetheirclothes;buttheorderisalwaysobeyed，withalacrityandwithoutgrumbling。Cossacks，itwouldseem，have，nopersonalacquaintancewithcoldsandrheumatism。
InthemostapprovedmanualsofgeographytheDonfiguresasoneof，theprincipalEuropeanrivers，anditslengthandbreadthgiveita，righttobeconsideredassuch;butitsdepthinmanypartsis，ludicrouslyoutofproportiontoitslengthandbreadth。I
rememberonedayseeingthecaptainofalarge，flat-bottomed，steamerslackenspeed，toavoidrunningdownamanonhorsebackwho，wasattemptingtocrosshisbowsinthemiddleofthestream。
Anotherdayanotlesscharacteristicincidenthappened。ACossack，passengerwishedtobesetdownataplacewheretherewasnopier，andonbeinginformedthattherewasnomeansoflandinghim，coollyjumpedoverboardandwalkedashore。Thissimplemethodof，disembarkingcannot，ofcourse，berecommendedtothosewhohaveno，localknowledgeregardingtheexactpositionofsand-banksanddeep，pools。
GoodserviceablefellowsarethoseCossackswhodragthesteamer，offthesand-banks，andareoftenentertainingcompanions。Manyof，themcanrelatefromtheirownexperience，inplain，unvarnished，style，stirringepisodesofirregularwarfare，andiftheyhappen，tobeinacommunicativemoodtheymaydivulgeafewsecrets，regardingtheirsimple，primitivecommissariatsystem。Whether，theyareconfidentialornot，thetravellerwhoknowsthelanguage，willspendhistimemoreprofitablyandpleasantlyinchattingwith，themthaningazinglistlesslyattheuninterestingcountrythrough，whichheispassing。
Unfortunately，theseDonsteamerscarryalargenumberoffree，passengersofanotherandmoreobjectionablekind，whodonot，confinethemselvestothedeck，butunceremoniouslyfindtheirway，intothecabin，andpreventthin-skinnedtravellersfromsleeping。
Iknowtoolittleofnaturalhistorytodecidewhethertheseagile，bloodthirstyparasitesareofthesamespeciesasthosewhichin，EnglandassistunofficiallytheSanitaryCommissionersbypunishing，uncleanliness;butImaysaythattheirfunctioninthesystemof，createdthingsisessentiallythesame，andtheyfulfilitwitha，zealandenergybeyondallpraise。Possessingformyownparta，happyimmunityfromtheirindelicateattentions，andbeing，perfectlyinnocentofentomologicalcuriosity，Imight，hadIbeen，alone，haveoverlookedtheirexistence，butIwasconstantly，remindedoftheirpresencebylesshappilyconstitutedmortals，and，thecomplaintsofthesufferersreceivedacuriousofficial，confirmation。OnarrivingattheendofthejourneyIasked，permissiontospendthenightonboard，andInoticedthatthe，captainaccededtomyrequestwithmorereadinessandwarmththanI
expected。Nextmorningthefactwasfullyexplained。WhenIbegan，toexpressmythanksforhavingbeenallowedtopassthenightina，comfortablecabin，myhostinterruptedmewithagood-natured，laugh，andassuredmethat，onthecontrary，hewasunder，obligationstome。”Yousee，“hesaid，assuminganairofmock，gravity，“Ihavealwaysonboardalargebodyoflightcavalry，and，whenIhaveallthispartoftheshiptomyselftheymakea，combinedattackonme;whereas，whensomeoneissleepingcloseby，theydividetheirforces！
OncertainsteamersontheSeaofAzoftheprivacyofthesleeping-
cabinisdisturbedbystillmoreobjectionableintruders;Imean，rats。DuringoneshortvoyagewhichImadeonboardtheKertch，thesedisagreeablevisitorsbecamesoimportunateinthelower，regionsofthevesselthattheladiesobtainedpermissiontosleep，inthedeck-saloon。Afterthisarrangementhadbeenmade，we，unfortunatemalepassengersreceivedredoubledattentionfromour，tormentors。Awakenedearlyonemorningbythesensationof，somethingrunningovermeasIlayinmyberth，Iconceiveda，methodofretaliation。Itseemedtomepossiblethat，intheevent，ofanothervisit，Imight，byseizingthepropermoment，kickthe，ratuptotheceilingwithsuchforceastoproduceconcussionof，thebrainandinstantdeath。VerysoonIhadanopportunityof，puttingmyplanintoexecution。Asignificantshakingofthe，littlecurtainatthefootoftheberthshowedthatitwasbeing，usedasascaling-ladder。Ilayperfectlystill，quiteasmuch，interestedinthesportasifIhadbeenwaiting，rifleinhand，forbiggame。Soontheintruderpeepedintomyberth，looked，cautiouslyaroundhim，andthenproceededtowalkstealthilyacross，myfeet。Inaninstanthewasshotupwards。Firstwashearda，sharpknockontheceiling，andthenadull“thud“onthefloor。
ThepreciseextentoftheinjuriesinflictedIneverdiscovered，forthevictimhadsufficientstrengthandpresenceofmindto，effecthisescape;andthegentlemanattheothersideofthe，cabin，whohadbeenrousedbythenoise，protestedagainstmy，repeatingtheexperiment，onthegroundthat，thoughhewaswilling，totakehisownshareoftheintruders，hestronglyobjectedto，havingotherpeople’sratskickedintohisberth。
Onsuchoccasionsitisofnousetocomplaintotheauthorities。
WhenImetthecaptainondeckIrelatedtohimwhathadhappened，andprotestedvigorouslyagainstpassengersbeingexposedtosuch，annoyances。Afterlisteningtomepatiently，hecoollyreplied，entirelyoverlookingmyprotestations，“Ah！Ididbetterthanthat，thismorning;Iallowedmyrattogetundertheblanket，andthen，smotheredhim！”
Railwaysandsteamboats，evenwhentheirarrangementsleavemuchto，bedesired，invariablyeffectasalutaryrevolutioninhotel，accommodation;butthisrevolutionisofnecessitygradual。
Foreignhotelkeepersmustimmigrateandgivetheexample;suitable，housesmustbebuilt;servantsmustbeproperlytrained;and，above，all，thenativetravellersmustlearntheusagesofcivilised，society。InRussiathisrevolutionisinprogress，butstillfar，frombeingcomplete。Thecitieswhereforeignersmostdo，congregate——St。Petersburg，Moscow，Odessa——alreadypossesshotels，thatwillbearcomparisonwiththoseofWesternEurope，andsomeof，themoreimportantprovincialtownscanofferveryrespectable，accommodation;butthereisstillmuchtobedonebeforetheWest-
Europeancantravelwithcomfortevenontheprincipalroutes。
Cleanliness，thefirstandmostessentialelementofcomfort，aswe，understandtheterm，isstillararecommodity，andoftencannotbe，procuredatanyprice。
Eveningoodhotels，whentheyareofthegenuineRussiantype，therearecertainpeculiaritieswhich，thoughnotinthemselves，objectionable，strikeaforeigneraspeculiar。Thus，whenyou，alightatsuchanhotel，youareexpectedtoexamineaconsiderable，numberofrooms，andtoinquireabouttherespectiveprices。When，youhavefixeduponasuitableapartment，youwilldowell，ifyou，wishtopractiseeconomy，toproposetothelandlordconsiderably，lessthanhedemands;andyouwillgenerallyfind，ifyouhavea，talentforbargaining，thattheroomsmaybehiredforsomewhat，lessthanthesumfirststated。Youmustbecareful，however，to，leavenopossibilityofdoubtastothetermsofthecontract。
Perhapsyouassumethat，asintakingacab，ahorseisalways，suppliedwithoutspecialstipulation，soinhiringabedroomthe，bargainincludesabedandthenecessaryappurtenances。Suchan，assumptionwillnotalwaysbejustified。Thelandlordmayperhaps，giveyouabedsteadwithoutextracharge，butifhebeuncorrupted，byforeignnotions，hewillcertainlynotspontaneouslysupplyyou，withbed-linen，pillows，blankets，andtowels。Onthecontrary，he，willassumethatyoucarryallthesearticleswithyou，andifyou，donot，youmustpayforthem。
ThisancientcustomhasproducedamongRussiansoftheoldschoola，kindoffastidiousnesstowhichwearestrangers。Theystrongly，dislikeusingsheets，blankets，andtowelswhichareinacertain，sensepublicproperty，justasweshouldstronglyobjecttoputting，onclotheswhichhadbeenalreadywornbyotherpeople。Andthe，feelingmaybedevelopedinpeoplenotRussianbybirth。Formy，ownpart，Iconfesstohavingbeenconsciousofacertain，disagreeablefeelingonreturninginthisrespecttotheusagesof，so-calledcivilisedEurope。
Theinconvenienceofcarryingabouttheessentialarticlesof，bedroomfurnitureisbynomeanssogreatasmighthesupposed。
BedroomsinRussiaarealwaysheatedduringcoldweather，sothat，onelightblanket，whichmaybealsousedasarailwayrug，is，quitesufficient，whilstsheets，pillow-cases，andtowelstakeup，littlespaceinaportmanteau。Themostcumbrousobjectisthe，pillow，forair-cushions，havingadisagreeableodour，arenotwell，suitedforthepurpose。ButRussiansareaccustomedtothis，encumbrance。Informerdays——asatthepresenttimeinthoseparts，ofthecountrywherethereareneitherrailwaysnormacadamised，roads——peopletravelledincartsorcarriageswithoutspringsand，intheseinstrumentsoftortureahugepileofcushionsorpillows，isnecessarytoavoidcontusionsanddislocations。Ontherailways，thejoltsandshakingarenotdeadlyenoughtorequiresuchan，antidote;but，eveninunconservativeRussia，customsoutlivethe，conditionsthatcreatedthem;andateveryrailway-stationyoumay，seemenandwomencarryingabouttheirpillowswiththemaswe，carrywraps。AgenuineRussianmerchantwholovescomfortand，respectstraditionmaytravelwithoutaportmanteau，buthe，considershispillowasanindispensablearticledevoyage。
Toreturntotheold-fashionedhotel。Whenyouhavecompletedthe，negotiationswiththelandlord，youwillnoticethat，unlessyou，haveaservantwithyou，thewaiterpreparestoperformtheduties，ofvaletdechambre。Donotbesurprisedathisofficiousness，whichseemsfoundedontheassumptionthatyouarethree-fourths，paralysed。Formerly，everywell-bornRussianhadavaletalwaysin，attendance，andneverdreamedofdoingforhimselfanythingwhich，couldbyanypossibilitybedoneforhim。Younoticethatthereis，nobellintheroom，andnomechanicalmeansofcommunicatingwith，theworldbelowstairs。Thatisbecausetheattendantissupposed，tohealwayswithincall，anditissomucheasiertoshoutthanto，getupandringthebell。
Inthegoodoldtimesallthiswasquitenatural。Thewell-born，Russianhadcommonlyasuperabundanceofdomesticserfs，andthere，wasnoreasonwhyoneortwoofthemshouldnotaccompanytheir，masterwhenhisHonourundertookajourney。Anadditionalperson，inthetarantassdidnotincreasetheexpense，andconsiderably，diminishedthelittleunavoidableinconveniencesoftravel。But，timeshavechanged。In1861thedomesticserfswereemancipatedby，Imperialukaz。Freeservantsdemandwages;andonrailwaysor，steamersasingleticketdoesnotincludeanattendant。The，presentgenerationmustthereforegetthroughlifewithamore，modestsupplyofvalets，andmustlearntodowithitsownhands，muchthatwasformerlyperformedbyserflabour。Still，a，gentlemanbroughtupintheoldconditionscannotbeexpectedto，dresshimselfwithoutassistance，andaccordinglythewaiter，remainsinyourroomtoactasvalet。Perhaps，too，intheearly，morningyoumaylearninanunpleasantwaythatotherpartsofthe，oldsystemarenotyetextinct。Youmayhear，forinstance，resoundingalongthecorridorssuchanorderas——“Petrusha！
Petrusha！，Stakanvody！，“LittlePeter，littlePeter，aglassof，water！”shoutedinastentorianvoicethatwouldstartletheSeven，Sleepers。
Whenthetoiletoperationsarecompleted，andyouordertea——one，alwaysordersteainRussia——youwillbeaskedwhetheryouhave，yourownteaandsugarwithyou。Ifyouareanexperienced，travelleryouwillbeabletoreplyintheaffirmative，forgood，teacanbeboughtonlyincertainwell-knownshops，andcanrarely，befoundinhotels。Ahuge，steamingtea-urn，calledasamovar——
etymologically，a“self-boiler“——willbebroughtin，andyouwill，makeyourteaaccordingtoyourtaste。Thetumbler，youknowof，course，istobeusedasacup，andwhenusingityoumustbe，carefulnottocauterisethepointsofyourfingers。Ifyoushould，happentohaveanythingeatableordrinkableinyourtravelling，basket，youneednothesitatetotakeitoutatonce，forthe，waiterwillnotfeelatallaggrievedorastonishedatyourdoing，nothing“forthegoodofthehouse。”，Thetwentyortwenty-five，kopeksthatyoupayforthesamovar——teapot，tumbler，saucer，spoon，andslop-basinbeingincludedunderthegenerictermpribor——
freesyoufromallcorkageandsimilardues。
Theseandotherremnantsofoldcustomsarenowrapidly，disappearing，andwill，doubtless，inaveryfewyearsbethingsof，thepast——thingstobepickedupinout-of-the-waycorners，and，chronicledbysocialarchaeology;buttheyarestilltobefoundin，townsnotunknowntoWesternEurope。
Manyoftheseoldcustoms，andespeciallytheoldmethodof，travelling，maybestudiedintheirpristinepuritythroughouta，greatpartofthecountry。Thoughrailwayconstructionhasbeen，pushedforwardwithgreatenergyduringthelastfortyyears，there，arestillvastregionswheretheancientsolitudeshaveneverbeen，disturbedbytheshrillwhistleofthelocomotive，androadshave，remainedintheirprimitivecondition。Eveninthecentral，provincesonemaystilltravelhundredsofmileswithoutever，encounteringanythingthatrecallsthenameofMacadam。
Ifpopularrumouristobetrusted，thereissomewhereinthe，HighlandsofScotland，bythesideofaturnpike，alargestone，bearingthefollowingdoggerelinscription：
“Ifyouhadseenthisroadbeforeitwasmade，You’dliftupyourhandsandblessGeneralWade。”
AnyeducatedEnglishmanreadingthisstrangeannouncementwould，naturallyremarkthatthefirstlineofthecoupletcontainsa，logicalcontradiction，probablyofHibernianorigin;butIhave，oftenthought，duringmywanderingsinRussia，thattheexpression，ifnotlogicallyjustifiable，mightforthesakeofvulgar，conveniencebelegalisedbyaPermissiveBill。Thetruthisthat，asaFrenchmanmightsay，“thereareroadsandroads“——roadsmade，androadsunmade，roadsartificialandroadsnatural。Now，in，Russia，roadsarenearlyalloftheunmade，naturalkind，andare，soconservativeintheirnaturethattheyhaveatthepresentday，preciselythesameappearanceastheyhadmanycenturiesago。They，havethusforimaginativemindssomethingofwhatiscalled“the，charmofhistoricalassociation。”，Theonlyperceptiblechangethat，takesplaceinthemduringaseriesofgenerationsisthattheruts，shifttheirposition。Whenthesebecomesodeepthatfore-wheels，cannolongerfathomthem，itbecomesnecessarytobeginmakinga，newpairofrutstotherightorleftoftheoldones;andasthe，roadsarecommonlyofgiganticbreadth，thereisnodifficultyin，findingaplacefortheoperation。Howtheoldonesgetfilledup，Icannotexplain;butasIhaverarelyseeninanypartofthe，country，exceptperhapsintheimmediatevicinityoftowns，ahuman，beingengagedinroadrepairing，IassumethatbeneficentNature，somehowaccomplishesthetaskwithouthumanassistance，eitherby，meansofalluvialdeposits，orbysomeothercosmicalactiononly，knowntophysicalgeographers。
Ontheroadsoneoccasionallyencountersbridges;andhere，again，IhavediscoveredinRussiaakeytothemysteriesofHibernian，phraseology。AnIrishmemberoncedeclaredtotheHouseofCommons，thattheChurchwas“thebridgethatseparatedthetwogreat，sectionsoftheIrishpeople。”，Asbridgescommonlyconnectrather，thanseparate，themetaphorwasreceivedwithroarsoflaughter。
Ifthehonourablememberswhojoinedinthehilariousapplausehad，travelledmuchinRussia，theywouldhavebeenmoremoderatein，theirmerriment;forinthatcountry，despitethelaudableactivity，ofthemodernsystemoflocaladministrationcreatedinthe，sixties，bridgesoftenactstillasabarrierratherthana，connectinglink，andtocrossariverbyabridgemaystillbewhat，istermedinpopularphrase“atemptingofProvidence。”，The，cautiousdriverwillgenerallyprefertotaketothewater，if，thereisafordwithinareasonabledistance，thoughbothheand，hishumanloadmaybeobliged，inordertoavoidgettingwetfeet，toassumeundignifiedposturesthatwouldaffordadmirablematerial，forthecaricaturist。Butthislittlebitofdiscomfort，even，thoughtheluggageshouldbesoakedintheprocessoffording，is，asnothingcomparedtothedangerofcrossingbythebridge。AsI
havenodesiretoharrowunnecessarilythefeelingsofthereader，Irefrainfromalldescriptionofuglyaccidents，endinginbruises，andfractures，andshallsimplyexplaininafewwordshowa，successfulpassageiseffected。
Whenitispossibletoapproachthebridgewithoutsinkingupto，thekneesinmud，itisbettertoavoidallrisksbywalkingover，andwaitingforthevehicleontheotherside;andwhenthisis，impossible，apreliminarysurveyisadvisable。Toyourinquiries，whetheritissafe，youryamstchikpost-boyissuretoreply，“Nitchevo！”——awordwhich，accordingtothedictionaries，means，“nothing“butwhichhas，inthemouthsofthepeasantry，agreat，varietyofmeanings，asImayexplainatsomefuturetime。Inthe，presentcaseitmayberoughlytranslated。”Thereisnodanger。”
“Nitchevo，Barin，proyedem““Thereisnodanger，sir;weshallget，over“，herepeats。Youmayrefertothegenerallyrotten，appearanceofthestructure，andpointinparticulartothegreat，holessufficienttoengulfhalfapost-horse。”Nebos’，Bog，pomozhet““Donotfear。Godwillhelp“，repliescoollyyour，phlegmaticJehu。Youmayhaveyourdoubtsastowhetherinthis，irreligiousageProvidencewillintervenespeciallyforyour，benefit;butyouryamstchik，whohasmorefaithorfatalism，leaves，youlittletimetosolvetheproblem。Makinghurriedlythesignof，thecross，hegathersuphisreins，waveshislittlewhipinthe，air，and，shoutinglustily，urgesonhisteam。Theoperationis，notwantinginexcitement。Firstthereisashortdescent;then，thehorsesplungewildlythroughazoneofdeepmud;nextcomesa，fearfuljolt，asthevehicleisjerkedupontothefirstplanks;
thenthetransverseplanks，whicharebutlooselyheldintheir，places，rattleandrumbleominously，astheexperienced，sagacious，animalspicktheirwaycautiouslyandgingerlyamongthedangerous，holesandcrevices;lastly，youplungewithahorriblejoltintoa，secondmudzone，andfinallyregainterrafirma，consciousofthat，pleasantsensationwhichayoungofficermaybesupposedtofeel，afterhisfirstcavalrychargeinrealwarfare。
Ofcoursehere，aselsewhere，familiaritybreedsindifference。
Whenyouhavesuccessfullycrossedwithoutseriousaccidentafew，hundredbridgesofthiskindyoulearntobeascoolandfatalistic，asyouryamstchik。
Thereaderwhohasheardofthegiganticreformsthathavebeen，repeatedlyimposedonRussiabyapaternalGovernmentmaynaturally，beastonishedtolearnthattheroadsarestillinsucha，disgracefulcondition。Butforthis，asforeverythingelseinthe，world，thereisagoodandsufficientreason。Thecountryis，still，comparativelyspeaking，thinlypopulated，andinmany，regionsitisdifficult，orpracticallyimpossible，toprocurein，sufficientquantitystoneofanykind，andespeciallyhardstone，fitforroad-making。Besidesthis，whenroadsaremade，the，severityoftheclimaterendersitdifficulttokeepthemingood，repair。
Whenalongjourneyhastobeundertakenthrougharegioninwhich，therearenorailways，thereareseveralwaysinwhichitmaybe，effected。Informerdays，whentimewasofstilllessvaluethan，atpresent，manylandedproprietorstravelledwiththeirown，horses，andcarriedwiththem，inoneormorecapacious，lumbering，vehicles，allthatwasrequiredforthedegreeofcivilisation，whichtheyhadattained;andtheirrequirementswereoften，considerable。Thegrandseigneur，forinstance，whospentthe，greaterpartofhislifeamidsttheluxuryofthecourtsociety，naturallytookwithhimalltheportableelementsofcivilisation。
Hisbaggageincluded，therefore，camp-beds，table-linen，silver，plate，abatteriedecuisine，andaFrenchcook。Thepioneersand，partofthecommissariatforceweresentoninadvance，sothathis，Excellencyfoundateachhalting-placeeverythingpreparedforhis，arrival。Thepoorownerofafewdozenserfsdispensed，ofcourse，withtheelaboratecommissariatdepartment，andcontentedhimself，withsuchmodestfareascouldbepackedintheholesandcorners，ofasingletarantass。
Itwillbewelltoexplainhere，parenthetically，whatatarantass，is，forIshalloftenhaveoccasiontousetheword。Itmaybe，brieflydefinedasaphaetonwithoutsprings。Thefunctionof，springsisimperfectlyfulfilledbytwoparallelwoodenbars，placedlongitudinally，onwhichisfixedthebodyofthevehicle。
Itiscommonlydrawnbythreehorses——astrong，fasttrotterinthe，shafts，flankedoneachsidebyalight，loosely-attachedhorse，thatgoesalongatagallop。Thepointsoftheshaftsare，connectedbytheduga，whichlookslikeagigantic，badlyformed，horseshoerisinghighabovethecollarofthetrotter。Tothetop，ofthedugaisattachedthebearing-rein，andunderneaththe，highestpartofitisfastenedabigbell——inthesouthern，provincesIfoundtwo，andsometimeseventhreebells——which，when，thecountryisopenandtheatmospherestill，maybeheardamile，off。Theuseofthebellisvariouslyexplained。Somesayitis，inordertofrightenthewolves，andothersthatitistoavoid，collisionsonthenarrowforest-paths。Butneitherofthese，explanationsisentirelysatisfactory。Itisusedchieflyin，summer，whenthereisnodangerofanattackfromwolves;andthe，numberofbellsisgreaterinthesouth，wherethereareno，forests。Perhapstheoriginalintentionwas——Ithrowoutthehint，forthebenefitofacertainschoolofarchaeologists——tofrighten，awayevilspirits;andthepracticehasbeenretainedpartlyfrom，unreasoningconservatism，andpartlywithaviewtolessenthe，chancesofcollisions。Astheroadsarenoiselesslysoft，andthe，driversnotalwaysvigilant，thedangersofcollisionare，considerablydiminishedbytheceaselesspeal。
Altogether，thetarantassiswelladaptedtotheconditionsin，whichitisused。Bythecuriouswayinwhichthehorsesare，harnesseditrecallsthewar-chariotofancienttimes。Thehorse，intheshaftsiscompelledbythebearing-reintokeephishead，highandstraightbeforehim——thoughthemovementofhisearsshows，plainlythathewouldverymuchliketoputitsomewherefarther，awayfromthetongueofthebell——butthesidehorsesgallop，freely，turningtheirheadsoutwardsinclassicalfashion。I
believethatthispositionisassumednotfromanysympathyonthe，partoftheseanimalsfortheremainsofclassicalart，butrather，fromthenaturaldesiretokeepasharpeyeonthedriver。Every，movementofhisrighthandtheywatchwithcloseattention，andas，soonastheydiscoveranysymptomsindicatinganintentionofusing，thewhiptheyimmediatelyshowadesiretoquickenthepace。
Nowthatthereaderhasgainedsomeideaofwhatatarantassis，we，mayreturntothemodesoftravellingthroughtheregionswhichare，notyetsuppliedwithrailways。
Howeverenduringandlong-windedhorsesmaybe，theymustbe，allowedsometimes，duringalongjourney，torestandfeed。
Travellinglongdistanceswithone’sownhorsesistherefore，necessarilyaslowoperation，andisnowquiteantiquated。People，whovaluetheirtimeprefertomakeuseoftheImperialPost，organisation。Onalltheprincipallinesofcommunicationthere，areregularpost-stations，atfromtentotwentymilesapart，where，acertainnumberofhorsesandvehiclesarekeptforthe，convenienceoftravellers。Toenjoytheprivilegeofthis，arrangement，onehastoapplytotheproperauthoritiesfora，podorozhnaya——alargesheetofpaperstampedwiththeImperial，Eagle，andbearingthenameoftherecipient，thedestination，and，thenumberofhorsestobesupplied。Inreturn，asmallsumis，paidforimaginaryroad-repairs;therestofthesumispaidby，instalmentsattherespectivestations。
Armedwiththisdocumentyougotothepost-stationanddemandthe，requisitenumberofhorses。Threeisthenumbergenerallyused，butifyoutravellightlyandareindifferenttoappearances，you，maycontentyourselfwithapair。Thevehicleisakindof，tarantass，butnotsuchasIhavejustdescribed。Theessentials，inbotharethesame，butthosewhichtheImperialGovernment，providesresembleanenormouscradleonwheelsratherthana，phaeton。Anarmfulofhayspreadoverthebottomofthewoodenbox，issupposedtoplaythepartofseatsandcushions。Youare，expectedtositunderthearchedcovering，andextendyourlegsso，thatthefeetliebeneaththedriver’sseat;butitisadvisable，unlesstherainhappenstobecomingdownintorrents，togetthis，coveringunshipped，andtravelwithoutit。Whenused，itpainfully，curtailsthelittlefreedomofmovementthatyouenjoy，andwhen，youareshotupwardsbysomeobstructionontheroaditisaptto，arrestyourascentbygivingyouaviolentblowonthetopofthe，head。
Itistobehopedthatyouareinnohurrytostart，otherwiseyour，patiencemaybesorelytried。Thehorses，whenatlastproduced，mayseemtoyouthemostmiserablescrewsthatitwaseveryour，misfortunetobehold;butyouhadbetterrefrainfromexpressing，yourfeelings，forifyouuseviolent，uncomplimentarylanguage，it，mayturnoutthatyouhavebeenguiltyofgrosscalumny。Ihave，seenmanyateamcomposedofanimalswhichathird-classLondon，costermongerwouldhavespurned，andinwhichitwasbarely，possibletorecognisetheequineform，dotheirdutyinhighly，creditablestyle，andgoalongattherateoftenortwelvemiles，anhour，undernostrongerincentivethenthevoiceofthe，yamstchik。Indeed，thecapabilitiesoftheselean，slouching，ungainlyquadrupedsareoftenastoundingwhentheyareunderthe，guidanceofamanwhoknowshowtodrivethem。Thoughsuchaman，commonlycarriesalittleharmlesswhip，herarelyusesitexcept，bywavingithorizontallyintheair。Hisincitementsareall，oral。Hetalkstohiscattleashewouldtoanimalsofhisown，species——nowencouragingthembytender，caressingepithets，and，nowlaunchingatthemexpressionsofindignantscorn。Atone，momenttheyarehis“littledoves，“andatthenexttheyhavebeen，transformedinto“cursedhounds。”，Howfartheyunderstandand，appreciatethiscuriousmixtureofendearingcajoleryand，contemptuousabuseitisdifficulttosay，butthereisnodoubt，thatitsomehowhasuponthemastrangeandpowerfulinfluence。
Anyonewhoundertakesajourneyofthiskindshouldpossessa，well-knit，muscularframeandgoodtoughsinews，capableof，supportinganunlimitedamountofjoltingandshaking;atthesame，timeheshouldbewellinuredtoallthehardshipsanddiscomforts，incidentaltowhatisvaguelytermed“roughingit。”，Whenhewishes，tosleepinapost-station，hewillfindnothingsofterthana，woodenbench，unlesshecaninducethekeepertoputforhimonthe，floorabundleofhay，whichisperhapssofter，butonthewhole，moredisagreeablethanthedealboard。Sometimeshewillnotget，eventhewoodenbench，forinordinarypost-stationsthereisbut，oneroomfortravellers，andthetwobenches——therearerarely，more——maybealreadyoccupied。Whenhedoesobtainabench，and，succeedsinfallingasleep，hemustnotbeastonishedifheis，disturbedonceortwiceduringthenightbypeoplewhousethe，apartmentasawaiting-roomwhilstthepost-horsesarebeing，changed。Thesepassers-bymayevenorderasamovar，anddrinktea，chat，laugh，smoke，andmakethemselvesotherwisedisagreeable，utterlyregardlessofthesleepers。Thentherearetheother，intruders，smallerinsizebutequallyobjectionable，ofwhichI
havealreadyspokenwhendescribingthesteamersontheDon。
RegardingthemIdesiretogivemerelyonewordofadvice：Asyou，willhaveabundantoccupationintheworkofself-defence，learnto，distinguishbetweenbelligerentsandneutrals，andfollowthe，simpleprincipleofinternationallaw，thatneutralsshouldnotbe，molested。Theymaybeveryugly，butuglinessdoesnotjustify，assassination。If，forinstance，youshouldhappeninawakingto，noticeafewblackorbrownbeetlesrunningaboutyourpillow，restrainyourmurderoushand！，Ifyoukillthemyoucommitanact，ofunnecessarybloodshed;forthoughtheymayplayfullyscamper，aroundyou，theywilldoyounobodilyharm。
Anotherrequisiteforajourneyinunfrequenteddistrictsisa，knowledgeofthelanguage。Itispopularlysupposedthatifyou，arefamiliarwithFrenchandGermanyoumaytravelanywherein，Russia。Sofarasthegreatcitiesandchieflinesof，communicationareconcerned，thismaybetrue，butbeyondthatit，isadelusion。TheRussianhasnot，anymorethantheWest-
European，receivedfromNaturethegiftoftongues。Educated，Russiansoftenspeakoneortwoforeignlanguagesfluently，butthe，peasantsknownolanguagebuttheirown，anditiswiththe，peasantrythatonecomesincontact。Andtoconversefreelywith，thepeasantrequiresaconsiderablefamiliaritywiththelanguage——
farmorethanisrequiredforsimplyreadingabook。Thoughthere，arefewprovincialisms，andallclassesofthepeopleusethesame，words——exceptthewordsofforeignorigin，whichareusedonlyby，theupperclasses——thepeasantalwaysspeaksinamorelaconicand，moreidiomaticwaythantheeducatedman。
Inthewintermonthstravellingisinsomerespectspleasanterthan，insummer，forsnowandfrostaregreatmacadamisers。Ifthesnow，fallsevenly，thereisforsometimethemostdelightfulroadthat，canbeimagined。Nojolts，noshaking，butasmooth，gliding，motion，likethatofaboatincalmwater，andthehorsesgallop，alongasiftotallyunconsciousofthesledgebehindthem。
Unfortunately，thishappystateofthingsdoesnotlastallthrough，thewinter。Theroadsoongetscutup，anddeeptransversefurrows，ukhabyareformed。HowthesefurrowscomeintoexistenceIhave，neverbeenableclearlytocomprehend，thoughIhaveoftenheard，thephenomenonexplainedbymenwhoimaginedtheyunderstoodit。
Whateverthecauseandmodeofformationmaybe，certainitisthat，littlehillsandvalleysdogetformed，andthesledge，asit，crossesoverthem，bobsupanddownlikeaboatinachoppingsea，withthisimportantdifference，thattheboatfallsintoayielding，liquid，whereasthesledgefallsuponasolidsubstance，unyielding，andunelastic。Theshakingandjoltingwhichresultmayreadilybe，imagined。
Thereareotherdiscomforts，too，inwintertravelling。Solongas，theairisperfectlystill，thecoldmaybeveryintensewithout，beingdisagreeable;butifastrongheadwindisblowing，andthe，thermometereversomanydegreesbelowzero，drivinginanopen，sledgeisaverydisagreeableoperation，andnosesmayget，frostbittenwithouttheirownersperceivingthefactintimeto，takepreventivemeasures。Thenwhynottakecoveredsledgeson，suchoccasions？，Forthesimplereasonthattheyarenottobehad;
andiftheycouldbeprocured，itwouldbewelltoavoidusing，them，fortheyareapttoproducesomethingverylikeseasickness。
Besidesthis，whenthesledgegetsoverturned，itispleasanterto，beshotoutontotheclean，refreshingsnowthantobeburied，ignominiouslyunderapileofmiscellaneousbaggage。
Thechiefrequisiteforwintertravellingintheseicyregionsisa，plentifulsupplyofwarmfurs。AnEnglishmanisveryapttobe，imprudentinthisrespect，andtotrusttoomuchtohisnatural，powerofresistingcold。Toacertainextentthisconfidenceis，justifiable，foranEnglishmanoftenfeelsquitecomfortableinan，ordinarygreatcoatwhenhisRussianfriendsconsideritnecessary，toenvelopthemselvesinfursofthewarmestkind;butitmaybe，carriedtoofar，inwhichcaseseverepunishmentissuretofollow，asIoncelearnedbyexperience。Imayrelatetheincidentasa，warningtoothers：
Onedayinmid-winterIstartedfromNovgorod，withtheintention，ofvisitingsomefriendsatacavalrybarrackssituatedaboutten，milesfromthetown。Asthesunwasshiningbrightly，andthe，distancetobetraversedwasshort，Iconsideredthatalightfur，andabashlyk——aclothhoodwhichprotectstheears——wouldbequite，sufficienttokeepoutthecold，andfoolishlydisregardedthe，warningsofaRussianfriendwhohappenedtocallasIwasaboutto，start。Ourroutelayalongtheriverduenorthward，rightinthe，teethofastrongnorthwind。Awintrynorthwindisalwaysand，everywhereadisagreeableenemytoface;letthereadertryto，imaginewhatitiswhentheFahrenheitthermometerisat30degrees，belowzero——orratherlethimrefrainfromsuchanattempt，forthe，sensationproducedcannotbeimaginedbythosewhohavenot，experiencedit。OfcourseIoughttohaveturnedback——atleast，assoonasasensationoffaintnesswarnedmethatthecirculation，wasbeingseriouslyimpeded——butIdidnotwishtoconfessmy，imprudencetothefriendwhoaccompaniedme。Whenwehaddriven，aboutthree-fourthsofthewaywemetapeasant-woman，who，gesticulatedviolently，andshoutedsomethingtousaswepassed。
Ididnothearwhatshesaid，butmyfriendturnedtomeandsaid，inanalarmingtone——wehadbeenspeakingGerman——“MeinGott！，Ihre，Naseistabgefroren！”Nowtheword“abgefroren，“asthereader，willunderstand，seemedtoindicatethatmynosewasfrozenoff，so，IputupmyhandinsomealarmtodiscoverwhetherIhad，inadvertentlylostthewholeorpartofthememberreferredto。It，wasstillinsituandentire，butashardandinsensibleasabit，ofwood。
“Youmaystillsaveit，“saidmycompanion，“ifyougetoutatonce，andrubitvigorouslywithsnow。”
Igotoutasdirected，butwastoofainttodoanythingvigorously。
Myfurcloakflewopen，thecoldseemedtograspmeintheregion，oftheheart，andIfellinsensible。
HowlongIremainedunconsciousIknownot。WhenIawokeIfound，myselfinastrangeroom，surroundedbydragoonofficersin，uniform，andthefirstwordsIheardwere，“Heisoutofdanger，now，buthewillhaveafever。”
Thesewordswerespoken，asIafterwardsdiscovered，byavery，competentsurgeon;buttheprophecywasnotfulfilled。The，promisedfevernevercame。Theonlybadconsequenceswerethatfor，somedaysmyrighthandremainedstiff，andforaweekortwoIhad，toconcealmynosefrompublicview。
Ifthislittleincidentjustifiesmeindrawingageneral，conclusion，Ishouldsaythatexposuretoextremecoldisanalmost，painlessformofdeath;butthattheprocessofbeingresuscitated，isverypainfulindeed——sopainful，thatthepatientmaybeexcused，formomentarilyregrettingthatofficiouspeoplepreventedthe，temporaryinsensibilityfrombecoming“thesleepthatknowsno，waking。”
Betweenthealternatereignsofwinterandsummerthereisalwaysa，shortinterregnum，duringwhichtravellinginRussiabyroadis，almostimpossible。Woetotheill-fatedmortalwhohastomakea，longroad-journeyimmediatelyafterthewintersnowhasmelted;or，worsestill，atthebeginningofwinter，whentheautumnmudhas，beenpetrifiedbythefrost，andnotyetlevelledbythesnow！
Atallseasonsthemonotonyofajourneyisprettysuretobe，brokenbylittleunforeseenepisodesofamoreorlessdisagreeable，kind。Anaxlebreaks，orawheelcomesoff，orthereisa，difficultyinprocuringhorses。Asanillustrationofthegraver，episodeswhichmayoccur，Ishallmakehereaquotationfrommy，note-book：
EarlyinthemorningwearrivedatMaikop，asmalltowncommanding，theentrancetooneofthevalleyswhichrunuptowardsthemain，rangeoftheCaucasus。Onalightingatthepost-station，weat，onceorderedhorsesforthenextstage，andreceivedthelaconic，reply，“Therearenohorses。”
“Andwhenwilltherebesome？”
“To-morrow！”
Thislastreplywetookforapieceofplayfulexaggeration，and，demandedthebookinwhich，accordingtolaw，thedepartureof，horsesisdulyinscribed，andfromwhichitiseasytocalculate，whenthefirstteamshouldbereadytostart。Ashortcalculation，provedthatweoughttogethorsesbyfouro’clockinthe，afternoon，soweshowedthestation-keepervariousdocumentssigned，bytheMinisteroftheInteriorandotherinfluentialpersonages，andadvisedhimtoavoidallcontraventionofthepostal，regulations。
Thesedocuments，whichprovedthatweenjoyedthespecial，protectionoftheauthorities，hadgenerallybeenofgreatservice，tousinourdealingswithrascallystation-keepers;butthis，station-keeperwasnotoneoftheordinarytype。HewasaCossack，ofherculeanproportions，withabullet-shapedhead，short-cropped，bristlyhair，shaggyeyebrows，anenormouspendentmoustache，a，defiantair，andapeculiarexpressionofcountenancewhichplainly，indicated“anuglycustomer。”，Thoughitwasstillearlyinthe，day，hehadevidentlyalreadyimbibedaconsiderablequantityof，alcohol，andhiswholedemeanourshowedclearlyenoughthathewas，notofthosewhoare“pleasantintheirliquor。”，Afterglancing，superciliouslyatthedocuments，asiftointimatehecouldread，themwerehesodisposed，hethrewthemdownonthetable，and，thrustinghisgiganticpawsintohiscapacioustrouser-pockets，remarkedslowlyanddecisively，insomethingdeeperthanadouble-
bassvoice，“You’llhavehorsesto-morrowmorning。”
Wishingtoavoidaquarrelwetriedtohirehorsesinthevillage，andwhenoureffortsinthatdirectionprovedfruitless，weapplied，totheheadoftheruralpolice。Hecameandusedallhis，influencewiththerefractorystation-keeper，butinvain。
Herculeswasnotinamoodtolistentoofficialsanymorethanto，ordinarymortals。Atlast，afterconsiderabletroubletohimself，ourfriendofthepolicecontrivedtofindhorsesforus，andwe，contentedourselveswithenteringanaccountofthecircumstances，intheComplaintBook，butourdifficultieswerebynomeansatan，end。AssoonasHerculesperceivedthatwehadobtainedhorses，withouthisassistance，andthathehadtherebylosthis，opportunityofblackmailingus，heofferedusoneofhisownteams，andinsistedondetainingusuntilweshouldcancelthecomplaint，againsthim。Thiswerefusedtodo，andourrelationswithhim，becamewhatiscalledindiplomaticlanguage“extremementtendues。”
Againwehadtoapplytothepolice。
MyfriendmountedguardoverthebaggagewhilstIwenttothe，policeoffice。Iwasnotlongabsent，butIfound，onmyreturn，thatimportanteventshadtakenplaceintheinterval。Acrowdhad，collectedroundthepost-station，andonthestepsstoodthekeeper，andhispost-boys，declaringthatthetravellerinsidehad，attemptedtoshootthem！，Irushedinandsoonperceived，bythe，smellofgunpowder，thatfirearmshadbeenused，butfoundnotrace，ofcasualties。Myfriendwastrampingupanddownthelittleroom，andevidentlyforthemomenttherewasanarmistice。
Inaveryshorttimethelocalauthoritieshadassembled，acandle，hadbeenlit，twoarmedCossacksstoodassentriesatthedoor，and，thepreliminaryinvestigationhadbegun。TheChiefofPolicesat，atthetableandwroterapidlyonasheetoffoolscap。The，investigationshowedthattwoshotshadbeenfiredfromarevolver，andtwobulletswerefoundimbeddedinthewall。Allthosewhohad，beenpresent，andsomewhoknewnothingoftheincidentexceptby，hearsay，weredulyexamined。Ouropponentsalwaysassumedthatmy，friendhadbeentheassailant，inspiteofhisprotestationstothe，contrary，andmorethanoncethewordspokyshenienaubiistvo，attempttomurderwerepronounced。Thingslookedveryblack，indeed。Wehadtheprospectofbeingdetainedfordaysandweeks，inthemiserableplace，tilltheinsatiabledemonofofficial，formalityhadbeenpropitiated。Andthen？
Whenthingswerethusattheirblackesttheysuddenlytookan，unexpectedturn，andthedeusexmachinaappearedpreciselyatthe，rightmoment，justasifwehadallbeenpuppetsinasensation，novel。Therewastheusualmomentarysilence，andthen，mixedwith，thesoundofanapproachingtarantass，aconfusedmurmur：“Therehe，is！，Heiscoming！”The“he“thusvaguelyandmysteriously，indicatedturnedouttobeanofficialofthejudicial，administration，whohadreasontovisitthevillageforanentirely，differentaffair。Assoonashehadbeentoldbrieflywhathad，happenedhetookthematterinhandandshowedhimselfequaltothe，occasion。UnlikethemajorityofRussianofficialshedisliked，lengthyprocedure，andsucceededinmakingthecasequiteclearin，averyshorttime。Therehadbeen，heperceived，noattemptto，murderoranythingofthekind。Thestation-keeperandhistwo，post-boys，whohadnorighttobeinthetraveller’sroom，had，enteredwiththreateningmien，andwhentheyrefusedtoretire，peaceably，myfriendhadfiredtwoshotsinordertofrightenthem，andbringassistance。Thefalsityoftheirstatementthathehad，firedatthemastheyenteredtheroomwasprovedbythefactthat，thebulletswerelodgedneartheceilinginthewallfarthestaway，fromthedoor。
ImustconfessthatIwasagreeablysurprisedbythisunexpected，turnofaffairs。Theconclusionsarrivedatwerenothingmorethan，asimplestatementofwhathadtakenplace;butIwassurprisedat，thefactthatamanwhowasatoncealawyerandaRussianofficial，shouldhavebeenabletotakesuchaplain，commonsenseviewofthe，case。
Beforemidnightwewereoncemorefreemen，drivingrapidlyinthe，clearmoonlighttothenextstation，undertheescortofafully-
armedCircassianCossack;buttheideathatwemighthavebeen，detainedforweeksinthatmiserableplacehaunteduslikea，nightmare。