CHAPTERXVIII。
Ateightinthemorningwereachedtheremnantandruinofwhathadbeentheimportantmilitarystationof“CampFloyd，“someforty-fiveorfiftymilesfromSaltLakeCity。AtfourP。M。wehaddoubledourdistanceandwereninetyorahundredmilesfromSaltLake。AndnowweenteredupononeofthatspeciesofdesertswhoseconcentratedhideousnessshamesthediffusedanddilutedhorrorsofSahara——an“alkali“desert。Forsixty-
eightmilestherewasbutonebreakinit。Idonotrememberthatthiswasreallyabreak；indeeditseemstomethatitwasnothingbutawateringdepotinthemidstofthestretchofsixty-eightmiles。Ifmymemoryservesme，therewasnowellorspringatthisplace，butthewaterwashauledtherebymuleandoxteamsfromthefurthersideofthedesert。Therewasastagestationthere。Itwasforty-fivemilesfromthebeginningofthedesert，andtwenty-threefromtheendofit。
Weplowedanddraggedandgropedalong，thewholelive-longnight，andattheendofthisuncomfortabletwelvehourswefinishedtheforty-five-
milepartofthedesertandgottothestagestationwheretheimportedwaterwas。Thesunwasjustrising。Itwaseasyenoughtocrossadesertinthenightwhilewewereasleep；anditwaspleasanttoreflect，inthemorning，thatweinactualpersonhadencounteredanabsolutedesertandcouldalwaysspeakknowinglyofdesertsinpresenceoftheignorantthenceforward。Anditwaspleasantalsotoreflectthatthiswasnotanobscure，backcountrydesert，butaverycelebratedone，themetropolisitself，asyoumaysay。Allthiswasverywellandverycomfortableandsatisfactory——butnowweweretocrossadesertindaylight。Thiswasfine——novel——romantic——dramaticallyadventurous——
this，indeed，wasworthlivingfor，worthtravelingfor！Wewouldwritehomeallaboutit。
Thisenthusiasm，thissternthirstforadventure，wiltedunderthesultryAugustsunanddidnotlastaboveonehour。Onepoorlittlehour——andthenwewereashamedthatwehad“gushed“so。Thepoetrywasallintheanticipation——thereisnoneinthereality。Imagineavast，wavelessoceanstrickendeadandturnedtoashes；imaginethissolemnwastetuftedwithash-dustedsage-bushes；imaginethelifelesssilenceandsolitudethatbelongtosuchaplace；imagineacoach，creepinglikeabugthroughthemidstofthisshorelesslevel，andsendinguptumbledvolumesofdustasifitwereabugthatwentbysteam；imaginethisachingmonotonyoftoilingandplowingkeptuphourafterhour，andtheshorestillasfarawayasever，apparently；imagineteam，driver，coachandpassengerssodeeplycoatedwithashesthattheyareallonecolorlesscolor；imagineash-driftsroostingabovemoustachesandeyebrowslikesnowaccumulationsonboughsandbushes。Thisistherealityofit。
Thesunbeatsdownwithdead，blistering，relentlessmalignity；theperspirationiswellingfromeveryporeinmanandbeast，butscarcelyasignofitfindsitswaytothesurface——itisabsorbedbeforeitgetsthere；thereisnotthefaintestbreathofairstirring；thereisnotamercifulshredofcloudinallthebrilliantfirmament；thereisnotalivingcreaturevisibleinanydirectionwhitheronesearchestheblanklevelthatstretchesitsmonotonousmilesoneveryhand；thereisnotasound——notasigh——notawhisper——notabuzz，orawhirofwings，ordistantpipeofbird——notevenasobfromthelostsoulsthatdoubtlesspeoplethatdeadair。Andsotheoccasionalsneezingoftherestingmules，andthechampingofthebits，grateharshlyonthegrimstillness，notdissipatingthespellbutaccentingitandmakingonefeelmorelonesomeandforsakenthanbefore。
Themules，underviolentswearing，coaxingandwhip-cracking，wouldmakeatstatedintervalsa“spurt，“anddragthecoachahundredormaybetwohundredyards，stirringupabillowycloudofdustthatrolledback，envelopingthevehicletothewheel-topsorhigher，andmakingitseemafloatinafog。Thenarestfollowed，withtheusualsneezingandbit-
champing。Thenanother“spurt“ofahundredyardsandanotherrestattheendofit。Alldaylongwekeptthisup，withoutwaterforthemulesandwithouteverchangingtheteam。Atleastwekeptituptenhours，which，Itakeit，isaday，andaprettyhonestone，inanalkalidesert。
Itwasfromfourinthemorningtilltwointheafternoon。Anditwassohot！andsoclose！andourwatercanteenswentdryinthemiddleofthedayandwegotsothirsty！Itwassostupidandtiresomeanddull！andthetedioushoursdidlaganddragandlimpalongwithsuchacrueldeliberation！Itwassotryingtogiveone\'swatchagoodlongundisturbedspellandthentakeitoutandfindthatithadbeenfoolingawaythetimeandnottryingtogetaheadany！Thealkalidustcutthroughourlips，itpersecutedoureyes，itatethroughthedelicatemembranesandmadeournosesbleedandkeptthembleeding——andtrulyandseriouslytheromanceallfadedfarawayanddisappeared，andleftthedeserttripnothingbutaharshreality——athirsty，sweltering，longing，hatefulreality！
Twomilesandaquarteranhourfortenhours——thatwaswhatweaccomplished。Itwashardtobringthecomprehensionawaydowntosuchasnail-paceasthat，whenwehadbeenusedtomakingeightandtenmilesanhour。Whenwereachedthestationonthefarthervergeofthedesert，wewereglad，forthefirsttime，thatthedictionarywasalong，becausewenevercouldhavefoundlanguagetotellhowgladwewere，inanysortofdictionarybutanunabridgedonewithpicturesinit。Buttherecouldnothavebeenfoundinawholelibraryofdictionarieslanguagesufficienttotellhowtiredthosemuleswereaftertheirtwenty-threemilepull。Totrytogivethereaderanideaofhowthirstytheywere，wouldbeto“gildrefinedgoldorpaintthelily。”
Somehow，nowthatitisthere，thequotationdoesnotseemtofit——butnomatter，letitstay，anyhow。Ithinkitisagracefulandattractivething，andthereforehavetriedtimeandtimeagaintoworkitinwhereitwouldfit，butcouldnotsucceed。Theseeffortshavekeptmyminddistractedandillatease，andmademynarrativeseembrokenanddisjointed，inplaces。Underthesecircumstancesitseemstomebesttoleaveitin，asabove，sincethiswillaffordatleastatemporaryrespitefromthewearandtearoftryingto“leadup“tothisreallyaptandbeautifulquotation。
CHAPTERXIX。
OnthemorningofthesixteenthdayoutfromSt。JosephwearrivedattheentranceofRockyCanyon，twohundredandfiftymilesfromSaltLake。
Itwasalonginthiswildcountrysomewhere，andfarfromanyhabitationofwhitemen，exceptthestagestations，thatwecameacrossthewretchedesttypeofmankindIhaveeverseen，uptothiswriting。I
refertotheGoshootIndians。Fromwhatwecouldseeandallwecouldlearn，theyareveryconsiderablyinferiortoeventhedespisedDiggerIndiansofCalifornia；inferiortoallracesofsavagesonourcontinent；
inferiortoeventheTerradelFuegans；inferiortotheHottentots，andactuallyinferiorinsomerespectstotheKytchesofAfrica。Indeed，I
havebeenobligedtolookthebulkyvolumesofWood\'s“UncivilizedRacesofMen“clearthroughinordertofindasavagetribedegradedenoughtotakerankwiththeGoshoots。Ifindbutonepeoplefairlyopentothatshamefulverdict。ItistheBosjesmansBushmenofSouthAfrica。SuchoftheGoshootsaswesaw，alongtheroadandhangingaboutthestations，weresmall，lean，“scrawny“creatures；incomplexionadullblackliketheordinaryAmericannegro；theirfacesandhandsbearingdirtwhichtheyhadbeenhoardingandaccumulatingformonths，years，andevengenerations，accordingtotheageoftheproprietor；asilent，sneaking，treacherouslookingrace；takingnoteofeverything，covertly，likealltheother“NobleRedMen“thatwedonotreadabout，andbetrayingnosignintheircountenances；indolent，everlastinglypatientandtireless，likeallotherIndians；pridelessbeggars——forifthebeggarinstinctwereleftoutofanIndianhewouldnot“go，“anymorethanaclockwithoutapendulum；hungry，alwayshungry，andyetneverrefusinganythingthatahogwouldeat，thoughofteneatingwhatahogwoulddecline；hunters，buthavingnohigherambitionthantokillandeatjack-assrabbits，cricketsandgrasshoppers，andembezzlecarrionfromthebuzzardsandcayotes；savageswho，whenaskediftheyhavethecommonIndianbeliefinaGreatSpiritshowasomethingwhichalmostamountstoemotion，thinkingwhiskeyisreferredto；athin，scatteringraceofalmostnakedblackchildren，theseGoshootsare，whoproducenothingatall，andhavenovillages，andnogatheringstogetherintostrictlydefinedtribalcommunities——apeoplewhoseonlyshelterisaragcastonabushtokeepoffaportionofthesnow，andyetwhoinhabitoneofthemostrocky，wintry，repulsivewastesthatourcountryoranyothercanexhibit。
TheBushmenandourGoshootsaremanifestlydescendedfromtheself-samegorilla，orkangaroo，orNorwayrat，which-everanimal——AdamtheDarwinianstracethemto。
OnewouldassoonexpecttherabbitstofightastheGoshoots，andyettheyusedtoliveofftheoffalandrefuseofthestationsafewmonthsandthencomesomedarknightwhennomischiefwasexpected，andburndownthebuildingsandkillthemenfromambushastheyrushedout。
Andonce，inthenight，theyattackedthestage-coachwhenaDistrictJudge，ofNevadaTerritory，wastheonlypassenger，andwiththeirfirstvolleyofarrowsandabulletortwotheyriddledthestagecurtains，woundedahorseortwoandmortallywoundedthedriver。Thelatterwasfullofpluck，andsowashispassenger。Atthedriver\'scallJudgeMottswunghimselfout，clamberedtotheboxandseizedthereinsoftheteam，andawaytheyplunged，throughtheracingmobofskeletonsandunderahurtlingstormofmissiles。Thestrickendriverhadsunkdownonthebootassoonashewaswounded，buthadheldontothereinsandsaidhewouldmanagetokeepholdofthemuntilrelieved。
Andaftertheyweretakenfromhisrelaxinggrasp，helaywithhisheadbetweenJudgeMott\'sfeet，andtranquillygavedirectionsabouttheroad；
hesaidhebelievedhecouldlivetillthemiscreantswereoutrunandleftbehind，andthatifhemanagedthat，themaindifficultywouldbeatanend，andtheniftheJudgedrovesoandsogivingdirectionsaboutbadplacesintheroad，andgeneralcoursehewouldreachthenextstationwithouttrouble。TheJudgedistancedtheenemyandatlastrattleduptothestationandknewthatthenight\'sperilsweredone；buttherewasnocomrade-in-armsforhimtorejoicewith，forthesoldierlydriverwasdead。
LetusforgetthatwehavebeensayingharshthingsabouttheOverlanddrivers，now。ThedisgustwhichtheGoshootsgaveme，adiscipleofCooperandaworshipperoftheRedMan——evenofthescholarlysavagesinthe“LastoftheMohicans“whoarefittinglyassociatedwithbackwoodsmenwhodivideeachsentenceintotwoequalparts:onepartcriticallygrammatical，refinedandchoiceoflanguage，andtheotherpartjustsuchanattempttotalklikeahunteroramountaineer，asaBroadwayclerkmightmakeaftereatinganeditionofEmersonBennett\'sworksandstudyingfrontierlifeattheBoweryTheatreacoupleofweeks——IsaythatthenauseawhichtheGoshootsgaveme，anIndianworshipper，setmetoexaminingauthorities，toseeifperchanceIhadbeenover-estimatingtheRedManwhileviewinghimthroughthemellowmoonshineofromance。
Therevelationsthatcameweredisenchanting。Itwascurioustoseehowquicklythepaintandtinselfellawayfromhimandlefthimtreacherous，filthyandrepulsive——andhowquicklytheevidencesaccumulatedthatwhereveronefindsanIndiantribehehasonlyfoundGoshootsmoreorlessmodifiedbycircumstancesandsurroundings——butGoshoots，afterall。
Theydeservepity，poorcreatures；andtheycanhavemine——atthisdistance。Nearerby，theynevergetanybody\'s。
ThereisanimpressionabroadthattheBaltimoreandWashingtonRailroadCompanyandmanyofitsemployeesareGoshoots；butitisanerror。
Thereisonlyaplausibleresemblance，which，whileitisaptenoughtomisleadtheignorant，cannotdeceivepartieswhohavecontemplatedbothtribes。Butseriously，itwasnotonlypoorwit，butverywrongtostartthereportreferredtoabove；forhoweverinnocentthemotivemayhavebeen，thenecessaryeffectwastoinjurethereputationofaclasswhohaveahardenoughtimeofitinthepitilessdesertsoftheRockyMountains，Heavenknows！IfwecannotfinditinourheartstogivethosepoornakedcreaturesourChristiansympathyandcompassion，inGod\'snameletusatleastnotthrowmudatthem。
CHAPTERXX。
Ontheseventeenthdaywepassedthehighestmountainpeakswehadyetseen，andalthoughthedaywasverywarmthenightthatfolloweduponitsheelswaswintrycoldandblanketswerenexttouseless。
Ontheeighteenthdayweencounteredtheeastward-boundtelegraph-
constructorsatReeseRiverstationandsentamessagetohisExcellencyGov。NyeatCarsonCitydistantonehundredandfifty-sixmiles。
OnthenineteenthdaywecrossedtheGreatAmericanDesert——fortymemorablemilesofbottomlesssand，intowhichthecoachwheelssunkfromsixinchestoafoot。Weworkedourpassagemostofthewayacross。
Thatistosay，wegotoutandwalked。Itwasadrearypullandalongandthirstyone，forwehadnowater。Fromoneextremityofthisdeserttotheother，theroadwaswhitewiththebonesofoxenandhorses。
Itwouldhardlybeanexaggerationtosaythatwecouldhavewalkedthefortymilesandsetourfeetonaboneateverystep！Thedesertwasoneprodigiousgraveyard。Andthelog-chains，wagontyres，androttingwrecksofvehicleswerealmostasthickasthebones。Ithinkwesawlog-chainsenoughrustingthereinthedesert，toreachacrossanyStateintheUnion。DonottheserelicssuggestsomethingofanideaofthefearfulsufferingandprivationtheearlyemigrantstoCaliforniaendured?
AttheborderoftheDesertliesCarsonLake，orThe“Sink“oftheCarson，ashallow，melancholysheetofwatersomeeightyorahundredmilesincircumference。CarsonRiveremptiesintoitandislost——sinksmysteriouslyintotheearthandneverappearsinthelightofthesunagain——forthelakehasnooutletwhatever。
ThereareseveralriversinNevada，andtheyallhavethismysteriousfate。Theyendinvariouslakesor“sinks，“andthatisthelastofthem。CarsonLake，HumboldtLake，WalkerLake，MonoLake，areallgreatsheetsofwaterwithoutanyvisibleoutlet。Waterisalwaysflowingintothem；noneiseverseentoflowoutofthem，andyettheyremainalwayslevelfull，neitherrecedingnoroverflowing。WhattheydowiththeirsurplusisonlyknowntotheCreator。
OnthewesternvergeoftheDesertwehaltedamomentatRagtown。Itconsistedofoneloghouseandisnotsetdownonthemap。
Thisremindsmeofacircumstance。JustafterweleftJulesburg，onthePlatte，Iwassittingwiththedriver，andhesaid:
“Icantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureatPlacervilleandwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。
ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace\'scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn\'tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。
ButHankMonksaid，\'Keepyourseat，Horace，andI\'llgetyouthereontime\'——andyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“
AdayortwoafterthatwepickedupaDenvermanatthecrossroads，andhetoldusagooddealaboutthecountryandtheGregoryDiggings。
HeseemedaveryentertainingpersonandamanwellpostedintheaffairsofColorado。Byandbyheremarked:
“Icantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureatPlacervilleandwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace\'scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn\'tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。
ButHankMonksaid，\'Keepyourseat，Horace，andI\'llgetyouthereontime！\'——andyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“
AtFortBridger，somedaysafterthis，wetookonboardacavalrysergeant，averyproperandsoldierlypersonindeed。Fromnoothermanduringthewholejourney，didwegathersuchastoreofconciseandwell-
arrangedmilitaryinformation。Itwassurprisingtofindinthedesolatewildsofourcountryamansothoroughlyacquaintedwitheverythingusefultoknowinhislineoflife，andyetofsuchinferiorrankandunpretentiousbearing。Forasmuchasthreehourswelistenedtohimwithunabatedinterest。Finallyhegotuponthesubjectoftrans-
continentaltravel，andpresentlysaid:
“Icantellyouaverylaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureatPlacervilleandwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace\'scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn\'tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。
ButHankMonksaid，\'Keepyourseat，Horace，andI\'llgetyouthereontime！\'——andyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“
WhenwewereeighthoursoutfromSaltLakeCityaMormonpreachergotinwithusatawaystation——agentle，soft-spoken，kindlyman，andonewhomanystrangerwouldwarmtoatfirstsight。Icanneverforgetthepathosthatwasinhisvoiceashetold，insimplelanguage，thestoryofhispeople\'swanderingsandunpitiedsufferings。Nopulpiteloquencewaseversomovingandsobeautifulasthisoutcast\'spictureofthefirstMormonpilgrimageacrosstheplains，strugglingsorrowfullyonwardtothelandofitsbanishmentandmarkingitsdesolatewaywithgravesandwateringitwithtears。Hiswordssowroughtuponusthatitwasarelieftousallwhentheconversationdriftedintoamorecheerfulchannelandthenaturalfeaturesofthecuriouscountrywewereincameundertreatment。Onematterafteranotherwaspleasantlydiscussed，andatlengththestrangersaid:
“Icantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureinPlacerville，andwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace\'scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn\'tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。
ButHankMonksaid，\'Keepyourseat，Horace，andI\'llgetyouthereontime！\'——andyoubetyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“
TenmilesoutofRagtownwefoundapoorwandererwhohadlaindowntodie。Hehadwalkedaslongashecould，buthislimbshadfailedhimatlast。Hungerandfatiguehadconqueredhim。Itwouldhavebeeninhumantoleavehimthere。WepaidhisfaretoCarsonandliftedhimintothecoach。Itwassomelittletimebeforeheshowedanyverydecidedsignsoflife；butbydintofchafinghimandpouringbrandybetweenhislipswefinallybroughthimtoalanguidconsciousness。Thenwefedhimalittle，andbyandbyheseemedtocomprehendthesituationandagratefullightsoftenedhiseye。Wemadehismail-sackbedascomfortableaspossible，andconstructedapillowforhimwithourcoats。
Heseemedverythankful。Thenhelookedupinourfaces，andsaidinafeeblevoicethathadatrembleofhonestemotioninit:
“Gentlemen，Iknownotwhoyouare，butyouhavesavedmylife；andalthoughIcanneverbeabletorepayyouforit，IfeelthatIcanatleastmakeonehourofyourlongjourneylighter。Itakeityouarestrangerstothisgreatthoroughfare，butIamentirelyfamiliarwithit。InthisconnectionIcantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeley——“
Isaid，impressively:
“Sufferingstranger，proceedatyourperil。Youseeinmethemelancholywreckofaoncestalwartandmagnificentmanhood。Whathasbroughtmetothis?Thatthingwhichyouareabouttotell。Graduallybutsurely，thattiresomeoldanecdotehassappedmystrength，underminedmyconstitution，witheredmylife。Pitymyhelplessness。Sparemeonlyjustthisonce，andtellmeaboutyoungGeorgeWashingtonandhislittlehatchetforachange。”
Weweresaved。Butnotsotheinvalid。Intryingtoretaintheanecdoteinhissystemhestrainedhimselfanddiedinourarms。
Iamaware，now，thatIoughtnottohaveaskedofthesturdiestcitizenofallthatregion，whatIaskedofthatmereshadowofaman；for，aftersevenyears\'residenceonthePacificcoast，IknowthatnopassengerordriverontheOverlandevercorkedthatanecdotein，whenastrangerwasby，andsurvived。WithinaperiodofsixyearsIcrossedandrecrossedtheSierrasbetweenNevadaandCaliforniathirteentimesbystageandlistenedtothatdeathlessincidentfourhundredandeighty-oneoreighty-twotimes。Ihavethelistsomewhere。Driversalwaystoldit，conductorstoldit，landlordstoldit，chancepassengerstoldit，theveryChinamenandvagrantIndiansrecountedit。Ihavehadthesamedrivertellittometwoorthreetimesinthesameafternoon。IthascometomeinallthemultitudeoftonguesthatBabelbequeathedtoearth，andflavoredwithwhiskey，brandy，beer，cologne，sozodont，tobacco，garlic，onions，grasshoppers——everythingthathasafragrancetoitthroughallthelonglistofthingsthataregorgedorguzzledbythesonsofmen。IneverhavesmeltanyanecdoteasoftenasIhavesmeltthatone；neverhavesmeltanyanecdotethatsmeltsovariegatedasthatone。Andyounevercouldlearntoknowitbyitssmell，becauseeverytimeyouthoughtyouhadlearnedthesmellofit，itwouldturnupwithadifferentsmell。BayardTaylorhaswrittenaboutthishoaryanecdote，Richardsonhaspublishedit；sohaveJones，Smith，Johnson，RossBrowne，andeveryothercorrespondence-inditingbeingthateversethisfootuponthegreatoverlandroadanywherebetweenJulesburgandSanFrancisco；andIhaveheardthatitisintheTalmud。Ihaveseenitinprintinninedifferentforeignlanguages；IhavebeentoldthatitisemployedintheinquisitioninRome；andInowlearnwithregretthatitisgoingtobesettomusic。Idonotthinkthatsuchthingsareright。
Stage-coachingontheOverlandisnomore，andstagedriversarearacedefunct。Iwonderiftheybequeathedthatbald-headedanecdotetotheirsuccessors，therailroadbrakemenandconductors，andiftheselatterstillpersecutethehelplesspassengerwithituntilheconcludes，asdidmanyatouristofotherdays，thattherealgrandeursofthePacificcoastarenotYoSemiteandtheBigTrees，butHankMonkandhisadventurewithHoraceGreeley。[Andwhatmakesthatwornanecdotethemoreaggravating，is，thattheadventureitcelebratesneveroccurred。
Ifitwereagoodanecdote，thatseemingdemeritwouldbeitschiefestvirtue，forcreativepowerbelongstogreatness；butwhatoughttobedonetoamanwhowouldwantonlycontrivesoflataoneasthis?IfI
weretosuggestwhatoughttobedonetohim，Ishouldbecalledextravagant——butwhatdoesthesixteenthchapterofDanielsay?Aha！]
CHAPTERXXI。
Wewereapproachingtheendofourlongjourney。Itwasthemorningofthetwentiethday。AtnoonwewouldreachCarsonCity，thecapitalofNevadaTerritory。Wewerenotglad，butsorry。Ithadbeenafinepleasuretrip；wehadfedfatonwonderseveryday；wewerenowwellaccustomedtostagelife，andveryfondofit；sotheideaofcomingtoastand-stillandsettlingdowntoahumdrumexistenceinavillagewasnotagreeable，butonthecontrarydepressing。
Visiblyournewhomewasadesert，walledinbybarren，snow-cladmountains。Therewasnotatreeinsight。Therewasnovegetationbuttheendlesssage-brushandgreasewood。Allnaturewasgraywithit。Wewereplowingthroughgreatdeepsofpowderyalkalidustthatroseinthickcloudsandfloatedacrosstheplainlikesmokefromaburninghouse。
Wewerecoatedwithitlikemillers；sowerethecoach，themules，themail-bags，thedriver——weandthesage-brushandtheotherscenerywereallonemonotonouscolor。Longtrainsoffreightwagonsinthedistanceenvelopeinascendingmassesofdustsuggestedpicturesofprairiesonfire。Theseteamsandtheirmastersweretheonlylifewesaw。
Otherwisewemovedinthemidstofsolitude，silenceanddesolation。
Everytwentystepswepassedtheskeletonofsomedeadbeastofburthen，withitsdust-coatedskinstretchedtightlyoveritsemptyribs。
Frequentlyasolemnravensatupontheskullorthehipsandcontemplatedthepassingcoachwithmeditativeserenity。
ByandbyCarsonCitywaspointedouttous。Itnestledintheedgeofagreatplainandwasasufficientnumberofmilesawaytolooklikeanassemblageofmerewhitespotsintheshadowofagrimrangeofmountainsoverlookingit，whosesummitsseemedliftedclearoutofcompanionshipandconsciousnessofearthlythings。
Wearrived，disembarked，andthestagewenton。Itwasa“wooden“town；
itspopulationtwothousandsouls。Themainstreetconsistedoffourorfiveblocksoflittlewhiteframestoreswhichweretoohightositdownon，butnottoohighforvariousotherpurposes；infact，hardlyhighenough。Theywerepackedclosetogether，sidebyside，asifroomwerescarceinthatmightyplain。
Thesidewalkwasofboardsthatweremoreorlesslooseandinclinedtorattlewhenwalkedupon。Inthemiddleofthetown，oppositethestores，wasthe“plaza“whichisnativetoalltownsbeyondtheRockyMountains——
alarge，unfenced，levelvacancy，withalibertypoleinit，andveryusefulasaplaceforpublicauctions，horsetrades，andmassmeetings，andlikewiseforteamsterstocampin。Twoothersidesoftheplazawerefacedbystores，officesandstables。
TherestofCarsonCitywasprettyscattering。
Wewereintroducedtoseveralcitizens，atthestage-officeandonthewayuptotheGovernor\'sfromthehotel——amongothers，toaMr。Harris，whowasonhorseback；hebegantosaysomething，butinterruptedhimselfwiththeremark:
“I\'llhavetogetyoutoexcusemeaminute；yonderisthewitnessthatsworeIhelpedtorobtheCaliforniacoach——apieceofimpertinentintermeddling，sir，forIamnotevenacquaintedwiththeman。”
Thenherodeoverandbegantorebukethestrangerwithasix-shooter，andthestrangerbegantoexplainwithanother。Whenthepistolswereemptied，thestrangerresumedhisworkmendingawhip-lash，andMr。
Harrisrodebywithapolitenod，homewardbound，withabulletthroughoneofhislungs，andseveralinhiships；andfromthemissuedlittlerivuletsofbloodthatcourseddownthehorse\'ssidesandmadetheanimallookquitepicturesque。IneversawHarrisshootamanafterthatbutitrecalledtomindthatfirstdayinCarson。
Thiswasallwesawthatday，foritwastwoo\'clock，now，andaccordingtocustomthedaily“WashoeZephyr“setin；asoaringdust-driftaboutthesizeoftheUnitedStatessetupedgewisecamewithit，andthecapitalofNevadaTerritorydisappearedfromview。
Still，thereweresightstobeseenwhichwerenotwhollyuninterestingtonewcomers；forthevastdustcloudwasthicklyfreckledwiththingsstrangetotheupperair——thingslivinganddead，thatflittedhitherandthither，goingandcoming，appearinganddisappearingamongtherollingbillowsofdust——hats，chickensandparasolssailingintheremoteheavens；blankets，tinsigns，sage-brushandshinglesashadelower；
door-matsandbuffalorobeslowerstill；shovelsandcoalscuttlesonthenextgrade；glassdoors，catsandlittlechildrenonthenext；disruptedlumberyards，lightbuggiesandwheelbarrowsonthenext；anddownonlythirtyorfortyfeetabovegroundwasascurryingstormofemigratingroofsandvacantlots。
Itwassomethingtoseethatmuch。Icouldhaveseenmore，ifIcouldhavekeptthedustoutofmyeyes。
ButseriouslyaWashoewindisbynomeansatriflingmatter。Itblowsflimsyhousesdown，liftsshingleroofsoccasionally，rollsuptinoneslikesheetmusic，nowandthenblowsastagecoachoverandspillsthepassengers；andtraditionsaysthereasontherearesomanybaldpeoplethere，is，thatthewindblowsthehairofftheirheadswhiletheyarelookingskywardaftertheirhats。CarsonstreetsseldomlookinactiveonSummerafternoons，becausetherearesomanycitizensskippingaroundtheirescapinghats，likechambermaidstryingtoheadoffaspider。
The“WashoeZephyr“WashoeisapetnicknameforNevadaisapeculiarScripturalwind，inthatnomanknoweth“whenceitcometh。”Thatistosay，whereitoriginates。ItcomesrightoverthemountainsfromtheWest，butwhenonecrossestheridgehedoesnotfindanyofitontheotherside！Itprobablyismanufacturedonthemountain-topfortheoccasion，andstartsfromthere。Itisaprettyregularwind，inthesummertime。Itsofficehoursarefromtwointheafternoontilltwothenextmorning；andanybodyventuringabroadduringthosetwelvehoursneedstoallowforthewindorhewillbringupamileortwotoleewardofthepointheisaimingat。AndyetthefirstcomplaintaWashoevisitortoSanFranciscomakes，isthattheseawindsblowso，there！
Thereisagooddealofhumannatureinthat。
WefoundthestatepalaceoftheGovernorofNevadaTerritorytoconsistofawhiteframeone-storyhousewithtwosmallroomsinitandastanchionsupportedshedinfront——forgrandeur——itcompelledtherespectofthecitizenandinspiredtheIndianswithawe。ThenewlyarrivedChiefandAssociateJusticesoftheTerritory，andothermachineryofthegovernment，weredomiciledwithlesssplendor。Theywereboardingaroundprivately，andhadtheirofficesintheirbedrooms。
TheSecretaryandItookquartersinthe“ranch“ofaworthyFrenchladybythenameofBridgetO\'Flannigan，acampfollowerofhisExcellencytheGovernor。Shehadknownhiminhisprosperityascommander-in-chiefoftheMetropolitanPoliceofNewYork，andshewouldnotdeserthiminhisadversityasGovernorofNevada。
Ourroomwasonthelowerfloor，facingtheplaza，andwhenwehadgotourbed，asmalltable，twochairs，thegovernmentfire-proofsafe，andtheUnabridgedDictionaryintoit，therewasstillroomenoughleftforavisitor——maybetwo，butnotwithoutstrainingthewalls。Butthewallscouldstandit——atleastthepartitionscould，fortheyconsistedsimplyofonethicknessofwhite“cottondomestic“stretchedfromcornertocorneroftheroom。ThiswastheruleinCarson——anyotherkindofpartitionwastherareexception。Andifyoustoodinadarkroomandyourneighborsinthenexthadlights，theshadowsonyourcanvastoldqueersecretssometimes！Veryoftenthesepartitionsweremadeofoldfloursacksbastedtogether；andthenthedifferencebetweenthecommonherdandthearistocracywas，thatthecommonherdhadunornamentedsacks，whilethewallsofthearistocratwereoverpoweringwithrudimentalfresco——i。e。，redandbluemillbrandsonthefloursacks。
Occasionally，also，thebetterclassesembellishedtheircanvasbypastingpicturesfromHarper\'sWeeklyonthem。Inmanycases，too，thewealthyandtheculturedrosetospittoonsandotherevidencesofasumptuousandluxurioustaste。[WashoepeopletakeajokesohardthatI
mustexplainthattheabovedescriptionwasonlytherule；thereweremanyhonorableexceptionsinCarson——plasteredceilingsandhousesthathadconsiderablefurnitureinthem——M。T。]
Wehadacarpetandagenuinequeen\'s-warewashbowl。ConsequentlywewerehatedwithoutreservebytheothertenantsoftheO\'Flannigan“ranch。”Whenweaddedapaintedoilclothwindowcurtain，wesimplytookourlivesintoourownhands。TopreventbloodshedIremovedupstairsandtookupquarterswiththeuntitledplebeiansinoneofthefourteenwhitepinecot-bedsteadsthatstoodintwolongranksintheonesoleroomofwhichthesecondstoryconsisted。
Itwasajollycompany，thefourteen。Theywereprincipallyvoluntarycamp-followersoftheGovernor，whohadjoinedhisretinuebytheirownelectionatNewYorkandSanFranciscoandcamealong，feelingthatinthescuffleforlittleterritorialcrumbsandofficestheycouldnotmaketheirconditionmoreprecariousthanitwas，andmightreasonablyexpecttomakeitbetter。Theywerepopularlyknownasthe“IrishBrigade，“
thoughtherewereonlyfourorfiveIrishmenamongalltheGovernor\'sretainers。
Hisgood-naturedExcellencywasmuchannoyedatthegossiphishenchmencreated——especiallywhentherearosearumorthattheywerepaidassassinsofhis，broughtalongtoquietlyreducethedemocraticvotewhendesirable！
Mrs。O\'Flanniganwasboardingandlodgingthemattendollarsaweekapiece，andtheywerecheerfullygivingtheirnotesforit。Theywereperfectlysatisfied，butBridgetpresentlyfoundthatnotesthatcouldnotbediscountedwerebutafeebleconstitutionforaCarsonboarding-
house。SoshebegantoharrytheGovernortofindemploymentforthe“Brigade。”Herimportunitiesandtheirstogetherdrovehimtoagentledesperationatlast，andhefinallysummonedtheBrigadetothepresence。
Then，saidhe:
“Gentlemen，Ihaveplannedalucrativeandusefulserviceforyou——aservicewhichwillprovideyouwithrecreationamidnoblelandscapes，andaffordyouneverceasingopportunitiesforenrichingyourmindsbyobservationandstudy。IwantyoutosurveyarailroadfromCarsonCitywestwardtoacertainpoint！WhenthelegislaturemeetsIwillhavethenecessarybillpassedandtheremunerationarranged。”
“What，arailroadovertheSierraNevadaMountains?“
“Well，then，surveyiteastwardtoacertainpoint！“
Heconvertedthemintosurveyors，chain-bearersandsoon，andturnedthemlooseinthedesert。Itwas“recreation“withavengeance！
Recreationonfoot，luggingchainsthroughsandandsage-brush，underasultrysunandamongcattlebones，cayotesandtarantulas。
“Romanticadventure“couldgonofurther。Theysurveyedveryslowly，verydeliberately，verycarefully。Theyreturnedeverynightduringthefirstweek，dusty，footsore，tired，andhungry，butveryjolly。Theybroughtingreatstoreofprodigioushairyspiders——tarantulas——andimprisonedthemincoveredtumblersupstairsinthe“ranch。”Afterthefirstweek，theyhadtocamponthefield，fortheyweregettingwelleastward。Theymadeagoodmanyinquiriesastothelocationofthatindefinite“certainpoint，“butgotnoinformation。Atlast，toapeculiarlyurgentinquiryof“Howfareastward?“GovernorNyetelegraphedback:
“TotheAtlanticOcean，blastyou！——andthenbridgeitandgoon！“
Thisbroughtbackthedustytoilers，whosentinareportandceasedfromtheirlabors。TheGovernorwasalwayscomfortableaboutit；hesaidMrs。
O\'FlanniganwouldholdhimfortheBrigade\'sboardanyhow，andheintendedtogetwhatentertainmenthecouldoutoftheboys；hesaid，withhisold-timepleasanttwinkle，thathemeanttosurveythemintoUtahandthentelegraphBrighamtohangthemfortrespass！
Thesurveyorsbroughtbackmoretarantulaswiththem，andsowehadquiteamenageriearrangedalongtheshelvesoftheroom。Someofthesespiderscouldstraddleoveracommonsaucerwiththeirhairy，muscularlegs，andwhentheirfeelingswerehurt，ortheirdignityoffended，theywerethewickedest-lookingdesperadoestheanimalworldcanfurnish。
Iftheirglassprison-housesweretouchedeversolightlytheywereupandspoilingforafightinaminute。Starchy?——proud?Indeed，theywouldtakeupastrawandpicktheirteethlikeamemberofCongress。
Therewasasusualafurious“zephyr“blowingthefirstnightofthebrigade\'sreturn，andaboutmidnighttheroofofanadjoiningstableblewoff，andacornerofitcamecrashingthroughthesideofourranch。
Therewasasimultaneousawakening，andatumultuousmusterofthebrigadeinthedark，andageneraltumblingandsprawlingovereachotherinthenarrowaislebetweenthebedrows。Inthemidstoftheturmoil，BobH——sprungupoutofasoundsleep，andknockeddownashelfwithhishead。Instantlyheshouted:
“Turnout，boys——thetarantulasisloose！“
Nowarningeversoundedsodreadful。Nobodytried，anylonger，toleavetheroom，lesthemightsteponatarantula。Everymangropedforatrunkorabed，andjumpedonit。Thenfollowedthestrangestsilence——asilenceofgrislysuspenseitwas，too——waiting，expectancy，fear。Itwasasdarkaspitch，andonehadtoimaginethespectacleofthosefourteenscant-cladmenroostinggingerlyontrunksandbeds，fornotathingcouldbeseen。Thencameoccasionallittleinterruptionsofthesilence，andonecouldrecognizeamanandtellhislocalitybyhisvoice，orlocateanyothersoundasufferermadebyhisgropingsorchangesofposition。Theoccasionalvoiceswerenotgiventomuchspeaking——yousimplyheardagentleejaculationof“Ow！“followedbyasolidthump，andyouknewthegentlemanhadfeltahairyblanketorsomethingtouchhisbareskinandhadskippedfromabedtothefloor。
Anothersilence。Presentlyyouwouldhearagaspingvoicesay:
“Su——su——something\'scrawlingupthebackofmyneck！“
Everynowandthenyoucouldhearalittlesubduedscrambleandasorrowful“OLord！“andthenyouknewthatsomebodywasgettingawayfromsomethinghetookforatarantula，andnotlosinganytimeaboutit，either。Directlyavoiceinthecornerrangoutwildandclear:
“I\'vegothim！I\'vegothim！“[Pause，andprobablechangeofcircumstances。]“No，he\'sgotme！Oh，ain\'ttheynevergoingtofetchalantern！“
Thelanterncameatthatmoment，inthehandsofMrs。O\'Flannigan，whoseanxietytoknowtheamountofdamagedonebytheassaultingroofhadnotpreventedherwaitingajudiciousinterval，aftergettingoutofbedandlightingup，toseeifthewindwasdone，now，upstairs，orhadalargercontract。
Thelandscapepresentedwhenthelanternflashedintotheroomwaspicturesque，andmighthavebeenfunnytosomepeople，butwasnottous。
Althoughwewereperchedsostrangelyuponboxes，trunksandbeds，andsostrangelyattired，too，weweretooearnestlydistressedandtoogenuinelymiserabletoseeanyfunaboutit，andtherewasnotthesemblanceofasmileanywherevisible。IknowIamnotcapableofsufferingmorethanIdidduringthosefewminutesofsuspenseinthedark，surroundedbythosecreeping，bloody-mindedtarantulas。Ihadskippedfrombedtobedandfromboxtoboxinacoldagony，andeverytimeItouchedanythingthatwasfurzyIfanciedIfeltthefangs。Ihadrathergotowarthanlivethatepisodeoveragain。Nobodywashurt。
Themanwhothoughtatarantulahad“gothim“wasmistaken——onlyacrackinaboxhadcaughthisfinger。Notoneofthoseescapedtarantulaswaseverseenagain。Thereweretenortwelveofthem。Wetookcandlesandhuntedtheplacehighandlowforthem，butwithnosuccess。Didwegobacktobedthen?Wedidnothingofthekind。Moneycouldnothavepersuadedustodoit。Wesatuptherestofthenightplayingcribbageandkeepingasharplookoutfortheenemy。
CHAPTERXXII。
ItwastheendofAugust，andtheskieswerecloudlessandtheweathersuperb。IntwoorthreeweeksIhadgrownwonderfullyfascinatedwiththecuriousnewcountryandconcludedtoputoffmyreturnto“theStates“awhile。Ihadgrownwellaccustomedtowearingadamagedslouchhat，bluewoolenshirt，andpantscrammedintoboot-tops，andgloriedintheabsenceofcoat，vestandbraces。Ifeltrowdyishand“bully，“asthehistorianJosephusphrasesit，inhisfinechapteruponthedestructionoftheTemple。Itseemedtomethatnothingcouldbesofineandsoromantic。Ihadbecomeanofficerofthegovernment，butthatwasformeresublimity。Theofficewasanuniquesinecure。Ihadnothingtodoandnosalary。IwasprivateSecretarytohismajestytheSecretaryandtherewasnotyetwritingenoughfortwoofus。SoJohnnyK——andIdevotedourtimetoamusement。HewastheyoungsonofanOhionabobandwasoutthereforrecreation。Hegotit。WehadheardaworldoftalkaboutthemarvellousbeautyofLakeTahoe，andfinallycuriositydroveusthithertoseeit。ThreeorfourmembersoftheBrigadehadbeenthereandlocatedsometimberlandsonitsshoresandstoredupaquantityofprovisionsintheircamp。Westrappedacoupleofblanketsonourshouldersandtookanaxeapieceandstarted——forweintendedtotakeupawoodranchorsoourselvesandbecomewealthy。
Wewereonfoot。Thereaderwillfinditadvantageoustogohorseback。
Weweretoldthatthedistancewaselevenmiles。Wetrampedalongtimeonlevelground，andthentoiledlaboriouslyupamountainaboutathousandmileshighandlookedover。Nolakethere。Wedescendedontheotherside，crossedthevalleyandtoiledupanothermountainthreeorfourthousandmileshigh，apparently，andlookedoveragain。Nolakeyet。Wesatdowntiredandperspiring，andhiredacoupleofChinamentocursethosepeoplewhohadbeguiledus。Thusrefreshed，wepresentlyresumedthemarchwithrenewedvigoranddetermination。Weploddedon，twoorthreehourslonger，andatlasttheLakeburstuponus——anoblesheetofbluewaterliftedsixthousandthreehundredfeetabovethelevelofthesea，andwalledinbyarimofsnow-cladmountainpeaksthattoweredaloftfullthreethousandfeethigherstill！Itwasavastoval，andonewouldhavetouseupeightyorahundredgoodmilesintravelingaroundit。AsitlaytherewiththeshadowsofthemountainsbrilliantlyphotographeduponitsstillsurfaceIthoughtitmustsurelybethefairestpicturethewholeearthaffords。
WefoundthesmallskiffbelongingtotheBrigadeboys，andwithoutlossoftimesetoutacrossadeepbendofthelaketowardthelandmarksthatsignifiedthelocalityofthecamp。IgotJohnnytorow——notbecauseI
mindexertionmyself，butbecauseitmakesmesicktoridebackwardswhenIamatwork。ButIsteered。Athree-milepullbroughtustothecampjustasthenightfell，andwesteppedashoreverytiredandwolfishlyhungry。Ina“cache“amongtherockswefoundtheprovisionsandthecookingutensils，andthen，allfatiguedasIwas，IsatdownonaboulderandsuperintendedwhileJohnnygatheredwoodandcookedsupper。
ManyamanwhohadgonethroughwhatIhad，wouldhavewantedtorest。
Itwasadelicioussupper——hotbread，friedbacon，andblackcoffee。Itwasadelicioussolitudewewerein，too。Threemilesawaywasasaw-
millandsomeworkmen，buttherewerenotfifteenotherhumanbeingsthroughoutthewidecircumferenceofthelake。Asthedarknesscloseddownandthestarscameoutandspangledthegreatmirrorwithjewels，wesmokedmeditativelyinthesolemnhushandforgotourtroublesandourpains。Induetimewespreadourblanketsinthewarmsandbetweentwolargebouldersandsoonfeelasleep，carelessoftheprocessionofantsthatpassedinthroughrentsinourclothingandexploredourpersons。
Nothingcoulddisturbthesleepthatfetteredus，forithadbeenfairlyearned，andifourconscienceshadanysinsonthemtheyhadtoadjourncourtforthatnight，anyway。Thewindrosejustaswewerelosingconsciousness，andwewerelulledtosleepbythebeatingofthesurfupontheshore。
Itisalwaysverycoldonthatlakeshoreinthenight，butwehadplentyofblanketsandwerewarmenough。Wenevermovedamuscleallnight，butwakedatearlydawnintheoriginalpositions，andgotupatonce，thoroughlyrefreshed，freefromsoreness，andbrimfulloffriskiness。
Thereisnoendofwholesomemedicineinsuchanexperience。Thatmorningwecouldhavewhippedtensuchpeopleaswewerethedaybefore——
sickonesatanyrate。Buttheworldisslow，andpeoplewillgoto“watercures“and“movementcures“andtoforeignlandsforhealth。
ThreemonthsofcamplifeonLakeTahoewouldrestoreanEgyptianmummytohispristinevigor，andgivehimanappetitelikeanalligator。Idonotmeantheoldestanddriestmummies，ofcourse，butthefresherones。
Theairupthereinthecloudsisverypureandfine，bracinganddelicious。Andwhyshouldn\'titbe?——itisthesametheangelsbreathe。
Ithinkthathardlyanyamountoffatiguecanbegatheredtogetherthatamancannotsleepoffinonenightonthesandbyitsside。Notunderaroof，butunderthesky；itseldomorneverrainsthereinthesummertime。Iknowamanwhowenttheretodie。Buthemadeafailureofit。
Hewasaskeletonwhenhecame，andcouldbarelystand。Hehadnoappetite，anddidnothingbutreadtractsandreflectonthefuture。
Threemonthslaterhewassleepingoutofdoorsregularly，eatingallhecouldhold，threetimesaday，andchasinggameovermountainsthreethousandfeethighforrecreation。Andhewasaskeletonnolonger，butweighedpartofaton。Thisisnofancysketch，butthetruth。Hisdiseasewasconsumption。Iconfidentlycommendhisexperiencetootherskeletons。
Isuperintendedagain，andassoonaswehadeatenbreakfastwegotintheboatandskirtedalongthelakeshoreaboutthreemilesanddisembarked。Welikedtheappearanceoftheplace，andsoweclaimedsomethreehundredacresofitandstuckour“notices“onatree。Itwasyellowpinetimberland——adenseforestoftreesahundredfeethighandfromonetofivefeetthroughatthebutt。Itwasnecessarytofenceourpropertyorwecouldnotholdit。Thatistosay，itwasnecessarytocutdowntreeshereandthereandmakethemfallinsuchawayastoformasortofenclosurewithprettywidegapsinit。Wecutdownthreetreesapiece，andfounditsuchheart-breakingworkthatwedecidedto“restourcase“onthose；iftheyheldtheproperty，wellandgood；iftheydidn\'t，letthepropertyspilloutthroughthegapsandgo；itwasnousetoworkourselvestodeathmerelytosaveafewacresofland。
Nextdaywecamebacktobuildahouse——forahousewasalsonecessary，inordertoholdtheproperty。Wedecidedtobuildasubstantiallog-
houseandexcitetheenvyoftheBrigadeboys；butbythetimewehadcutandtrimmedthefirstlogitseemedunnecessarytobesoelaborate，andsoweconcludedtobuilditofsaplings。However，twosaplings，dulycutandtrimmed，compelledrecognitionofthefactthatastillmodesterarchitecturewouldsatisfythelaw，andsoweconcludedtobuilda“brush“house。Wedevotedthenextdaytothiswork，butwedidsomuch“sittingaround“anddiscussing，thatbythemiddleoftheafternoonwehadachievedonlyahalf-waysortofaffairwhichoneofushadtowatchwhiletheothercutbrush，lestifbothturnedourbackswemightnotbeabletofinditagain，ithadsuchastrongfamilyresemblancetothesurroundingvegetation。Butweweresatisfiedwithit。
Wewerelandownersnow，dulyseizedandpossessed，andwithintheprotectionofthelaw。Thereforewedecidedtotakeupourresidenceonourowndomainandenjoythatlargesenseofindependencewhichonlysuchanexperiencecanbring。Latethenextafternoon，afteragoodlongrest，wesailedawayfromtheBrigadecampwithalltheprovisionsandcookingutensilswecouldcarryoff——borrowisthemoreaccurateword——
andjustasthenightwasfallingwebeachedtheboatatourownlanding。
CHAPTERXXIII。
Ifthereisanylifethatishappierthanthelifeweledonourtimberranchforthenexttwoorthreeweeks，itmustbeasortoflifewhichI
havenotreadofinbooksorexperiencedinperson。Wedidnotseeahumanbeingbutourselvesduringthetime，orhearanysoundsbutthosethatweremadebythewindandthewaves，thesighingofthepines，andnowandthenthefar-offthunderofanavalanche。Theforestaboutuswasdenseandcool，theskyaboveuswascloudlessandbrilliantwithsunshine，thebroadlakebeforeuswasglassyandclear，orrippledandbreezy，orblackandstorm-tossed，accordingtoNature\'smood；anditscirclingborderofmountaindomes，clothedwithforests，scarredwithland-slides，clovenbycanonsandvalleys，andhelmetedwithglitteringsnow，fitlyframedandfinishedthenoblepicture。Theviewwasalwaysfascinating，bewitching，entrancing。Theeyewasnevertiredofgazing，nightorday，incalmorstorm；itsufferedbutonegrief，andthatwasthatitcouldnotlookalways，butmustclosesometimesinsleep。
Wesleptinthesandclosetothewater\'sedge，betweentwoprotectingboulders，whichtookcareofthestormynight-windsforus。Wenevertookanyparegorictomakeussleep。Atthefirstbreakofdawnwewerealwaysupandrunningfoot-racestotonedownexcessofphysicalvigorandexuberanceofspirits。Thatis，Johnnywas——butIheldhishat。
Whilesmokingthepipeofpeaceafterbreakfastwewatchedthesentinelpeaksputonthegloryofthesun，andfollowedtheconqueringlightasitsweptdownamongtheshadows，andsetthecaptivecragsandforestsfree。Wewatchedthetintedpicturesgrowandbrightenuponthewatertilleverylittledetailofforest，precipiceandpinnaclewaswroughtinandfinished，andthemiracleoftheenchantercomplete。Thento“business。”
Thatis，driftingaroundintheboat。Wewereonthenorthshore。
There，therocksonthebottomaresometimesgray，sometimeswhite。
Thisgivesthemarveloustransparencyofthewaterafulleradvantagethanithaselsewhereonthelake。Weusuallypushedoutahundredyardsorsofromshore，andthenlaydownonthethwarts，inthesun，andlettheboatdriftbythehourwhitheritwould。Weseldomtalked。
ItinterruptedtheSabbathstillness，andmarredthedreamstheluxuriousrestandindolencebrought。Theshoreallalongwasindentedwithdeep，curvedbaysandcoves，borderedbynarrowsand-beaches；andwherethesandended，thesteepmountain-sidesroserightupaloftintospace——roseuplikeavastwallalittleoutoftheperpendicular，andthicklywoodedwithtallpines。
Sosingularlyclearwasthewater，thatwhereitwasonlytwentyorthirtyfeetdeepthebottomwassoperfectlydistinctthattheboatseemedfloatingintheair！Yes，whereitwaseveneightyfeetdeep。
Everylittlepebblewasdistinct，everyspeckledtrout，everyhand\'s-
breadthofsand。Often，aswelayonourfaces，agraniteboulder，aslargeasavillagechurch，wouldstartoutofthebottomapparently，andseemclimbinguprapidlytothesurface，tillpresentlyitthreatenedtotouchourfaces，andwecouldnotresisttheimpulsetoseizeanoarandavertthedanger。Buttheboatwouldfloaton，andtheboulderdescendagain，andthenwecouldseethatwhenwehadbeenexactlyaboveit，itmuststillhavebeentwentyorthirtyfeetbelowthesurface。Downthroughthetransparencyofthesegreatdepths，thewaterwasnotmerelytransparent，butdazzlingly，brilliantlyso。Allobjectsseenthroughithadabright，strongvividness，notonlyofoutline，butofeveryminutedetail，whichtheywouldnothavehadwhenseensimplythroughthesamedepthofatmosphere。Soemptyandairydidallspacesseembelowus，andsostrongwasthesenseoffloatinghighaloftinmid-nothingness，thatwecalledtheseboat-excursions“balloon-voyages。”
Wefishedagooddeal，butwedidnotaverageonefishaweek。Wecouldseetroutbythethousandwingingaboutintheemptinessunderus，orsleepinginshoalsonthebottom，buttheywouldnotbite——theycouldseethelinetooplainly，perhaps。Wefrequentlyselectedthetroutwewanted，andrestedthebaitpatientlyandpersistentlyontheendofhisnoseatadepthofeightyfeet，buthewouldonlyshakeitoffwithanannoyedmanner，andshifthisposition。
Webathedoccasionally，butthewaterwasratherchilly，forallitlookedsosunny。Sometimeswerowedouttothe“bluewater，“amileortwofromshore。Itwasasdeadblueasindigothere，becauseoftheimmensedepth。Byofficialmeasurementthelakeinitscentreisonethousandfivehundredandtwenty-fivefeetdeep！
Sometimes，onlazyafternoons，welolledonthesandincamp，andsmokedpipesandreadsomeoldwell-wornnovels。Atnight，bythecamp-fire，weplayedeuchreandseven-uptostrengthenthemind——andplayedthemwithcardssogreasyanddefacedthatonlyawholesummer\'sacquaintancewiththemcouldenablethestudenttotelltheaceofclubsfromthejackofdiamonds。
Weneversleptinour“house。”Itneverrecurredtous，foronething；
andbesides，itwasbuilttoholdtheground，andthatwasenough。Wedidnotwishtostrainit。
Byandbyourprovisionsbegantorunshort，andwewentbacktotheoldcampandlaidinanewsupply。Weweregoneallday，andreachedhomeagainaboutnight-fall，prettytiredandhungry。WhileJohnnywascarryingthemainbulkoftheprovisionsuptoour“house“forfutureuse，Itooktheloafofbread，someslicesofbacon，andthecoffee-pot，ashore，setthemdownbyatree，litafire，andwentbacktotheboattogetthefrying-pan。WhileIwasatthis，IheardashoutfromJohnny，andlookingupIsawthatmyfirewasgallopingalloverthepremises！
Johnnywasontheothersideofit。Hehadtorunthroughtheflamestogettothelakeshore，andthenwestoodhelplessandwatchedthedevastation。
Thegroundwasdeeplycarpetedwithdrypine-needles，andthefiretouchedthemoffasiftheyweregunpowder。Itwaswonderfultoseewithwhatfiercespeedthetallsheetofflametraveled！Mycoffee-potwasgone，andeverythingwithit。Inaminuteandahalfthefireseizeduponadensegrowthofdrymanzanitachapparalsixoreightfeethigh，andthentheroaringandpoppingandcracklingwassomethingterrific。
Weweredriventotheboatbytheintenseheat，andthereweremained，spell-bound。
Withinhalfanhourallbeforeuswasatossing，blindingtempestofflame！Itwentsurgingupadjacentridges——surmountedthemanddisappearedinthecanonsbeyond——burstintoviewuponhigherandfartherridges，presently——shedagranderilluminationabroad，anddoveagain——
flamedoutagain，directly，higherandstillhigherupthemountain-side——
threwoutskirmishingpartiesoffirehereandthere，andsentthemtrailingtheircrimsonspiralsawayamongremoterampartsandribsandgorges，tillasfarastheeyecouldreachtheloftymountain-frontswerewebbedasitwerewithatanglednetworkofredlavastreams。Awayacrossthewaterthecragsanddomeswerelitwitharuddyglare，andthefirmamentabovewasareflectedhell！
Everyfeatureofthespectaclewasrepeatedintheglowingmirrorofthelake！Bothpicturesweresublime，bothwerebeautiful；butthatinthelakehadabewilderingrichnessaboutitthatenchantedtheeyeandhelditwiththestrongerfascination。
Wesatabsorbedandmotionlessthroughfourlonghours。Weneverthoughtofsupper，andneverfeltfatigue。Butateleveno\'clocktheconflagrationhadtraveledbeyondourrangeofvision，andthendarknessstoledownuponthelandscapeagain。
Hungerasserteditselfnow，buttherewasnothingtoeat。Theprovisionswereallcooked，nodoubt，butwedidnotgotosee。Wewerehomelesswanderersagain，withoutanyproperty。Ourfencewasgone，ourhouseburneddown；noinsurance。Ourpineforestwaswellscorched，thedeadtreesallburnedup，andourbroadacresofmanzanitasweptaway。Ourblanketswereonourusualsand-bed，however，andsowelaydownandwenttosleep。Thenextmorningwestartedbacktotheoldcamp，butwhileoutalongwayfromshore，sogreatastormcameupthatwedarednottrytoland。SoIbaledouttheseasweshipped，andJohnnypulledheavilythroughthebillowstillwehadreachedapointthreeorfourmilesbeyondthecamp。Thestormwasincreasing，anditbecameevidentthatitwasbettertotakethehazardofbeachingtheboatthangodowninahundredfathomsofwater；soweranin，withtallwhite-capsfollowing，andIsatdowninthestern-sheetsandpointedherhead-ontotheshore。
Theinstantthebowstruck，awavecameoverthesternthatwashedcrewandcargoashore，andsavedadealoftrouble。Weshiveredintheleeofaboulderalltherestoftheday，andfrozeallthenightthrough。Inthemorningthetempesthadgonedown，andwepaddleddowntothecampwithoutanyunnecessarydelay。WeweresostarvedthatweateuptherestoftheBrigade\'sprovisions，andthensetouttoCarsontotellthemaboutitandasktheirforgiveness。Itwasaccorded，uponpaymentofdamages。
Wemademanytripstothelakeafterthat，andhadmanyahair-breadthescapeandblood-curdlingadventurewhichwillneverberecordedinanyhistory。
CHAPTERXXIV。
Iresolvedtohaveahorsetoride。Ihadneverseensuchwild，free，magnificenthorsemanshipoutsideofacircusasthesepicturesquely-cladMexicans，CaliforniansandMexicanizedAmericansdisplayedinCarsonstreetseveryday。Howtheyrode！Leaningjustgentlyforwardoutoftheperpendicular，easyandnonchalant，withbroadslouch-hatbrimblownsquareupinfront，andlongriataswingingabovethehead，theysweptthroughthetownlikethewind！Thenextminutetheywereonlyasailingpuffofdustonthefardesert。Iftheytrotted，theysatupgallantlyandgracefully，andseemedpartofthehorse；didnotgojiggeringupanddownafterthesillyMiss-Nancyfashionoftheriding-schools。Ihadquicklylearnedtotellahorsefromacow，andwasfullofanxietytolearnmore。Iwasresolvedtobuyahorse。
Whilethethoughtwasranklinginmymind，theauctioneercameskurryingthroughtheplazaonablackbeastthathadasmanyhumpsandcornersonhimasadromedary，andwasnecessarilyuncomely；buthewas“going，going，attwenty-two！——horse，saddleandbridleattwenty-twodollars，gentlemen！“andIcouldhardlyresist。
AmanwhomIdidnotknowheturnedouttobetheauctioneer\'sbrother
noticedthewistfullookinmyeye，andobservedthatthatwasaveryremarkablehorsetobegoingatsuchaprice；andaddedthatthesaddlealonewasworththemoney。ItwasaSpanishsaddle，withponderous\'tapidaros\'，andfurnishedwiththeungainlysole-leathercoveringwiththeunspellablename。IsaidIhadhalfanotiontobid。Thenthiskeen-eyedpersonappearedtometobe“takingmymeasure“；butI
dismissedthesuspicionwhenhespoke，forhismannerwasfullofguilelesscandorandtruthfulness。Saidhe:
“Iknowthathorse——knowhimwell。Youareastranger，Itakeit，andsoyoumightthinkhewasanAmericanhorse，maybe，butIassureyouheisnot。Heisnothingofthekind；but——excusemyspeakinginalowvoice，otherpeoplebeingnear——heis，withouttheshadowofadoubt，aGenuineMexicanPlug！“
IdidnotknowwhataGenuineMexicanPlugwas，buttherewassomethingaboutthisman\'swayofsayingit，thatmademeswearinwardlythatI
wouldownaGenuineMexicanPlug，ordie。
“Hasheanyother——er——advantages?“Iinquired，suppressingwhateagernessIcould。
Hehookedhisforefingerinthepocketofmyarmy-shirt，ledmetooneside，andbreathedinmyearimpressivelythesewords:
“Hecanout-buckanythinginAmerica！“
“Going，going，going——attwent——ty——fourdollarsandahalf，gen——“
“Twenty-seven！“Ishouted，inafrenzy。
“Andsold！“saidtheauctioneer，andpassedovertheGenuineMexicanPlugtome。
Icouldscarcelycontainmyexultation。Ipaidthemoney，andputtheanimalinaneighboringlivery-stabletodineandresthimself。
IntheafternoonIbroughtthecreatureintotheplaza，andcertaincitizensheldhimbythehead，andothersbythetail，whileImountedhim。Assoonastheyletgo，heplacedallhisfeetinabunchtogether，loweredhisback，andthensuddenlyarcheditupward，andshotmestraightintotheairamatterofthreeorfourfeet！Icameasstraightdownagain，litinthesaddle，wentinstantlyupagain，camedownalmostonthehighpommel，shotupagain，andcamedownonthehorse\'sneck——allinthespaceofthreeorfourseconds。Thenheroseandstoodalmoststraightuponhishindfeet，andI，claspinghisleanneckdesperately，slidbackintothesaddleandheldon。Hecamedown，andimmediatelyhoistedhisheelsintotheair，deliveringaviciouskickatthesky，andstoodonhisforefeet。Andthendownhecameoncemore，andbegantheoriginalexerciseofshootingmestraightupagain。ThethirdtimeI
wentupIheardastrangersay:
“Oh，don\'thebuck，though！“
WhileIwasup，somebodystruckthehorseasoundingthwackwithaleathernstrap，andwhenIarrivedagaintheGenuineMexicanPlugwasnotthere。ACaliforniayouthchasedhimupandcaughthim，andaskedifhemighthavearide。Igrantedhimthatluxury。HemountedtheGenuine，gotliftedintotheaironce，butsenthisspurshomeashedescended，andthehorsedartedawaylikeatelegram。Hesoaredoverthreefenceslikeabird，anddisappeareddowntheroadtowardtheWashoeValley。
Isatdownonastone，withasigh，andbyanaturalimpulseoneofmyhandssoughtmyforehead，andtheotherthebaseofmystomach。I
believeIneverappreciated，tillthen，thepovertyofthehumanmachinery——forIstillneededahandortwotoplaceelsewhere。PencannotdescribehowIwasjoltedup。ImaginationcannotconceivehowdisjointedIwas——howinternally，externallyanduniversallyIwasunsettled，mixedupandruptured。Therewasasympatheticcrowdaroundme，though。
Oneelderly-lookingcomfortersaid:
“Stranger，you\'vebeentakenin。Everybodyinthiscampknowsthathorse。Anychild，anyInjun，couldhavetoldyouthathe\'dbuck；heistheveryworstdeviltobuckonthecontinentofAmerica。Youhearme。
I\'mCurry。OldCurry。OldAbeCurry。Andmoreover，heisasimon-pure，out-and-out，genuined——dMexicanplug，andanuncommonmeanoneatthat，too。Why，youturnip，ifyouhadlaidlowandkeptdark，there\'schancestobuyanAmericanhorseformightylittlemorethanyoupaidforthatbloodyoldforeignrelic。”
Igavenosign；butImadeupmymindthatiftheauctioneer\'sbrother\'sfuneraltookplacewhileIwasintheTerritoryIwouldpostponeallotherrecreationsandattendit。
AfteragallopofsixteenmilestheCalifornianyouthandtheGenuineMexicanPlugcametearingintotownagain，sheddingfoam-flakeslikethespume-spraythatdrivesbeforeatyphoon，and，withonefinalskipoverawheelbarrowandaChinaman，castanchorinfrontofthe“ranch。”
Suchpantingandblowing！Suchspreadingandcontractingoftheredequinenostrils，andglaringofthewildequineeye！Butwastheimperialbeastsubjugated?Indeedhewasnot。
HislordshiptheSpeakeroftheHousethoughthewas，andmountedhimtogodowntotheCapitol；butthefirstdashthecreaturemadewasoverapileoftelegraphpoleshalfashighasachurch；andhistimetotheCapitol——onemileandthreequarters——remainsunbeatentothisday。Butthenhetookanadvantage——heleftoutthemile，andonlydidthethreequarters。Thatistosay，hemadeastraightcutacrosslots，preferringfencesandditchestoacrookedroad；andwhentheSpeakergottotheCapitolhesaidhehadbeenintheairsomuchhefeltasifhehadmadethetriponacomet。
IntheeveningtheSpeakercamehomeafootforexercise，andgottheGenuinetowedbackbehindaquartzwagon。ThenextdayIloanedtheanimaltotheClerkoftheHousetogodowntotheDanasilvermine，sixmiles，andhewalkedbackforexercise，andgotthehorsetowed。
EverybodyIloanedhimtoalwayswalkedback；theynevercouldgetenoughexerciseanyotherway。
Still，Icontinuedtoloanhimtoanybodywhowaswillingtoborrowhim，myideabeingtogethimcrippled，andthrowhimontheborrower\'shands，orkilled，andmaketheborrowerpayforhim。Butsomehownothingeverhappenedtohim。Hetookchancesthatnootherhorseevertookandsurvived，buthealwayscameoutsafe。Itwashisdailyhabittotryexperimentsthathadalwaysbeforebeenconsideredimpossible，buthealwaysgotthrough。Sometimeshemiscalculatedalittle，anddidnotgethisriderthroughintact，buthealwaysgotthroughhimself。OfcourseI
hadtriedtosellhim；butthatwasastretchofsimplicitywhichmetwithlittlesympathy。Theauctioneerstormedupanddownthestreetsonhimforfourdays，dispersingthepopulace，interruptingbusiness，anddestroyingchildren，andnevergotabid——atleastneveranybuttheeighteen-dollaronehehiredanotoriouslysubstancelessbummertomake。
Thepeopleonlysmiledpleasantly，andrestrainedtheirdesiretobuy，iftheyhadany。Thentheauctioneerbroughtinhisbill，andIwithdrewthehorsefromthemarket。Wetriedtotradehimoffatprivatevenduenext，offeringhimatasacrificeforsecond-handtombstones，oldiron，temperancetracts——anykindofproperty。Butholderswerestiff，andweretiredfromthemarketagain。Inevertriedtoridethehorseanymore。
Walkingwasgoodenoughexerciseforamanlikeme，thathadnothingthematterwithhimexceptruptures，internalinjuries，andsuchthings。
FinallyItriedtogivehimaway。Butitwasafailure。PartiessaidearthquakeswerehandyenoughonthePacificcoast——theydidnotwishtoownone。AsalastresortIofferedhimtotheGovernorfortheuseofthe“Brigade。”Hisfacelitupeagerlyatfirst，buttoneddownagain，andhesaidthethingwouldbetoopalpable。
Justthentheliverystablemanbroughtinhisbillforsixweeks\'
keeping——stall-roomforthehorse，fifteendollars；hayforthehorse，twohundredandfifty！TheGenuineMexicanPlughadeatenatonofthearticle，andthemansaidhewouldhaveeatenahundredifhehadlethim。
Iwillremarkhere，inallseriousness，thattheregularpriceofhayduringthatyearandapartofthenextwasreallytwohundredandfiftydollarsaton。Duringapartofthepreviousyearithadsoldatfivehundredaton，ingold，andduringthewinterbeforethattherewassuchscarcityofthearticlethatinseveralinstancessmallquantitieshadbroughteighthundreddollarsatonincoin！Theconsequencemightbeguessedwithoutmytellingit:peopledturnedtheirstockloosetostarve，andbeforethespringarrivedCarsonandEaglevalleyswerealmostliterallycarpetedwiththeircarcases！Anyoldsettlertherewillverifythesestatements。
Imanagedtopaytheliverybill，andthatsamedayIgavetheGenuineMexicanPlugtoapassingArkansasemigrantwhomfortunedeliveredintomyhand。Ifthisevermeetshiseye，hewilldoubtlessrememberthedonation。
NowwhoeverhashadthelucktoridearealMexicanplugwillrecognizetheanimaldepictedinthischapter，andhardlyconsiderhimexaggerated——buttheuninitiatedwillfeeljustifiedinregardinghisportraitasafancysketch，perhaps。
CHAPTERXXV。
Originally，NevadawasapartofUtahandwascalledCarsoncounty；andaprettylargecountyitwas，too。Certainofitsvalleysproducednoendofhay，andthisattractedsmallcoloniesofMormonstock-raisersandfarmerstothem。AfeworthodoxAmericansstraggledinfromCalifornia，butnolovewaslostbetweenthetwoclassesofcolonists。Therewaslittleornofriendlyintercourse；eachpartystaidtoitself。TheMormonswerelargelyinthemajority，andhadtheadditionaladvantageofbeingpeculiarlyundertheprotectionoftheMormongovernmentoftheTerritory。Thereforetheycouldaffordtobedistant，andevenperemptorytowardtheirneighbors。OneofthetraditionsofCarsonValleyillustratestheconditionofthingsthatprevailedatthetimeI
speakof。ThehiredgirlofoneoftheAmericanfamilieswasIrish，andaCatholic；yetitwasnotedwithsurprisethatshewastheonlypersonoutsideoftheMormonringwhocouldgetfavorsfromtheMormons。Sheaskedkindnessesofthemoften，andalwaysgotthem。Itwasamysterytoeverybody。Butonedayasshewaspassingoutatthedoor，alargebowieknifedroppedfromunderherapron，andwhenhermistressaskedforanexplanationsheobservedthatshewasgoingoutto“borryawash-tubfromtheMormons！“
In1858silverlodeswerediscoveredin“CarsonCounty，“andthentheaspectofthingschanged。Californiansbegantoflockin，andtheAmericanelementwassooninthemajority。AllegiancetoBrighamYoungandUtahwasrenounced，andatemporaryterritorialgovernmentfor“Washoe“wasinstitutedbythecitizens。GovernorRoopwasthefirstandonlychiefmagistrateofit。InduecourseoftimeCongresspassedabilltoorganize“NevadaTerritory，“andPresidentLincolnsentoutGovernorNyetosupplantRoop。
AtthistimethepopulationoftheTerritorywasabouttwelveorfifteenthousand，andrapidlyincreasing。Silvermineswerebeingvigorouslydevelopedandsilvermillserected。Businessofallkindswasactiveandprosperousandgrowingmoresodaybyday。