Ahollow-cheekedandscowlingpeopletheyare！Allbeggars；butthat\'snothing。Lookatthemastheygatherround。Some，aretooindolenttocomedown-stairs，oraretoowiselymistrustfulofthestairs，perhaps，toventure:sostretchouttheirleanhandsfromupperwindows，andhowl；others，comeflockingaboutus，fightingandjostlingoneanother，anddemanding，incessantly，charityfortheloveofGod，charityfortheloveoftheBlessedVirgin，charityfortheloveofalltheSaints。Agroupofmiserablechildren，almostnaked，screamingforththesamepetition，discoverthattheycanseethemselvesreflectedinthevarnishofthecarriage，andbegintodanceandmakegrimaces，thattheymayhavethepleasureofseeingtheiranticsrepeatedinthismirror。A
crippledidiot，intheactofstrikingoneofthemwhodrownshisclamorousdemandforcharity，observeshisangrycounterpartinthepanel，stopsshort，andthrustingouthistongue，beginstowaghisheadandchatter。Theshrillcryraisedatthis，awakenshalf-a-
dozenwildcreatureswrappedinfrowsybrowncloaks，whoarelyingonthechurch-stepswithpotsandpansforsale。These，scramblingup，approach，andbegdefiantly。\'Iamhungry。Givemesomething。
Listentome，Signor。Iamhungry！\'Then，aghastlyoldwoman，fearfulofbeingtoolate，comeshobblingdownthestreet，stretchingoutonehand，andscratchingherselfallthewaywiththeother，andscreaming，longbeforeshecanbeheard，\'Charity，charity！I\'llgoandprayforyoudirectly，beautifullady，ifyou\'llgivemecharity！\'Lastly，themembersofabrotherhoodforburyingthedead:hideouslymasked，andattiredinshabbyblackrobes，whiteattheskirts，withthesplashesofmanymuddywinters:escortedbyadirtypriest，andacongenialcross-bearer:
comehurryingpast。Surroundedbythismotleyconcourse，wemoveoutofFondi:badbrighteyesglaringatus，outofthedarknessofeverycrazytenement，likeglisteningfragmentsofitsfilthandputrefaction。
Anoblemountain-pass，withtheruinsofafortonastrongeminence，traditionallycalledtheFortofFraDiavolo；theoldtownofItri，likeadeviceinpastry，builtup，almostperpendicularly，onahill，andapproachedbylongsteepflightsofsteps；beautifulMoladiGaeta，whosewines，likethoseofAlbano，havedegeneratedsincethedaysofHorace，orhistasteforwinewasbad:whichisnotlikelyofonewhoenjoyeditsomuch，andextolleditsowell；anothernightupontheroadatSt。Agatha；arestnextdayatCapua，whichispicturesque，buthardlysoseductivetoatravellernow，asthesoldiersofPraetorianRomewerewonttofindtheancientcityofthatname；aflatroadamongvinesfestoonedandloopedfromtreetotree；andMountVesuviuscloseathandatlast！-itsconeandsummitwhitenedwithsnow；
anditssmokehangingoverit，intheheavyatmosphereoftheday，likeadensecloud。Sowego，rattlingdownhill，intoNaples。
Afuneraliscomingupthestreet，towardsus。Thebody，onanopenbier，borneonakindofpalanquin，coveredwithagayclothofcrimsonandgold。Themourners，inwhitegownsandmasks。Iftherebedeathabroad，lifeiswellrepresentedtoo，forallNapleswouldseemtobeoutofdoors，andtearingtoandfroincarriages。
Someofthese，thecommonVetturinovehicles，aredrawnbythreehorsesabreast，deckedwithsmarttrappingsandgreatabundanceofbrazenornament，andalwaysgoingveryfast。Notthattheirloadsarelight；forthesmallestofthemhasatleastsixpeopleinside，fourinfront，fourorfivemorehangingonbehind，andtwoorthreemore，inanetorbagbelowtheaxle-tree，wheretheyliehalf-suffocatedwithmudanddust。ExhibitorsofPunch，buffosingerswithguitars，recitersofpoetry，recitersofstories，arowofcheapexhibitionswithclownsandshowmen，drums，andtrumpets，paintedclothsrepresentingthewonderswithin，andadmiringcrowdsassembledwithout，assistthewhirlandbustle。
Raggedlazzaronilieasleepindoorways，archways，andkennels；thegentry，gailydressed，aredashingupanddownincarriagesontheChiaji，orwalkinginthePublicGardens；andquietletter-writers，perchedbehindtheirlittledesksandinkstandsunderthePorticooftheGreatTheatreofSanCarlo，inthepublicstreet，arewaitingforclients。
Hereisagalley-slaveinchains，whowantsaletterwrittentoafriend。Heapproachesaclerkly-lookingman，sittingunderthecornerarch，andmakeshisbargain。Hehasobtainedpermissionofthesentinelwhoguardshim:whostandsnear，leaningagainstthewallandcrackingnuts。Thegalley-slavedictatesintheearoftheletter-writer，whathedesirestosay；andashecan\'treadwriting，looksintentlyinhisface，toreadtherewhetherhesetsdownfaithfullywhatheistold。Afteratime，thegalley-slavebecomesdiscursive-incoherent。Thesecretarypausesandrubshischin。Thegalley-slaveisvolubleandenergetic。Thesecretary，atlength，catchestheidea，andwiththeairofamanwhoknowshowtowordit，setsitdown；stopping，nowandthen，toglancebackathistextadmiringly。Thegalley-slaveissilent。Thesoldierstoicallycrackshisnuts。Isthereanythingmoretosay?
inquirestheletter-writer。Nomore。Thenlisten，friendofmine。
Hereadsitthrough。Thegalley-slaveisquiteenchanted。Itisfolded，andaddressed，andgiventohim，andhepaysthefee。Thesecretaryfallsbackindolentlyinhischair，andtakesabook。
Thegalley-slavegathersupanemptysack。Thesentinelthrowsawayahandfulofnut-shells，shouldershismusket，andawaytheygotogether。
Whydothebeggarsraptheirchinsconstantly，withtheirrighthands，whenyoulookatthem?EverythingisdoneinpantomimeinNaples，andthatistheconventionalsignforhunger。Amanwhoisquarrellingwithanother，yonder，laysthepalmofhisrighthandonthebackofhisleft，andshakesthetwothumbs-expressiveofadonkey\'sears-whereathisadversaryisgoadedtodesperation。
Twopeoplebargainingforfish，thebuyeremptiesanimaginarywaistcoatpocketwhenheistoldtheprice，andwalksawaywithoutaword:havingthoroughlyconveyedtothesellerthatheconsidersittoodear。Twopeopleincarriages，meeting，onetoucheshislips，twiceorthrice，holdingupthefivefingersofhisrighthand，andgivesahorizontalcutintheairwiththepalm。Theothernodsbriskly，andgoeshisway。Hehasbeeninvitedtoafriendlydinnerathalf-pastfiveo\'clock，andwillcertainlycome。
AlloverItaly，apeculiarshakeoftherighthandfromthewrist，withtheforefingerstretchedout，expressesanegative-theonlynegativebeggarswilleverunderstand。But，inNaples，thosefivefingersareacopiouslanguage。
Allthis，andeveryotherkindofout-doorlifeandstir，andmacaroni-eatingatsunset，andflower-sellingalldaylong，andbeggingandstealingeverywhereandatallhours，youseeuponthebrightsea-shore，wherethewavesofthebaysparklemerrily。But，loversandhuntersofthepicturesque，letusnotkeeptoostudiouslyoutofviewthemiserabledepravity，degradation，andwretchedness，withwhichthisgayNeapolitanlifeisinseparablyassociated！ItisnotwelltofindSaintGiles\'ssorepulsive，andthePortaCapuanasoattractive。Apairofnakedlegsandaraggedredscarf，donotmakeALLthedifferencebetweenwhatisinterestingandwhatiscoarseandodious?Paintingandpoetisingforever，ifyouwill，thebeautiesofthismostbeautifulandlovelyspotofearth，letus，asourduty，trytoassociateanewpicturesquewithsomefaintrecognitionofman\'sdestinyandcapabilities；morehopeful，Ibelieve，amongtheiceandsnowoftheNorthPole，thaninthesunandbloomofNaples。
Capri-oncemadeodiousbythedeifiedbeastTiberius-Ischia，Procida，andthethousanddistantbeautiesoftheBay，lieintheblueseayonder，changinginthemistandsunshinetwentytimesa-
day:nowcloseathand，nowfaroff，nowunseen。Thefairestcountryintheworld，isspreadaboutus。WhetherweturntowardstheMisenoshoreofthesplendidwateryamphitheatre，andgobytheGrottoofPosilipototheGrottodelCaneandawaytoBaiae:ortaketheotherway，towardsVesuviusandSorrento，itisonesuccessionofdelights。Inthelast-nameddirection，where，overdoorsandarchways，therearecountlesslittleimagesofSanGennaro，withhisCanute\'shandstretchedout，tocheckthefuryoftheBurningMountain，wearecarriedpleasantly，byarailroadonthebeautifulSeaBeach，pastthetownofTorredelGreco，builtupontheashesoftheformertowndestroyedbyaneruptionofVesuvius，withinahundredyears；andpasttheflat-roofedhouses，granaries，andmacaronimanufactories；toCastel-a-Mare，withitsruinedcastle，nowinhabitedbyfishermen，standingintheseauponaheapofrocks。Here，therailroadterminates；but，hencewemayrideon，byanunbrokensuccessionofenchantingbays，andbeautifulscenery，slopingfromthehighestsummitofSaintAngelo，thehighestneighbouringmountain，downtothewater\'sedge-amongvineyards，olive-trees，gardensoforangesandlemons，orchards，heaped-uprocks，greengorgesinthehills-andbythebasesofsnow-coveredheights，andthroughsmalltownswithhandsome，dark-
hairedwomenatthedoors-andpassdelicioussummervillas-toSorrento，wherethePoetTassodrewhisinspirationfromthebeautysurroundinghim。Returning，wemayclimbtheheightsaboveCastel-
a-Mare，andlookingdownamongtheboughsandleaves，seethecrispwaterglisteninginthesun；andclustersofwhitehousesindistantNaples，dwindling，inthegreatextentofprospect，downtodice。Thecomingbacktothecity，bythebeachagain，atsunset:
withtheglowingseaononeside，andthedarkeningmountain，withitssmokeandflame，upontheother:isasublimeconclusiontothegloryoftheday。
ThatchurchbythePortaCapuana-neartheoldfisher-marketinthedirtiestquarterofdirtyNaples，wheretherevoltofMasaniellobegan-ismemorableforhavingbeenthesceneofoneofhisearliestproclamationstothepeople，andisparticularlyremarkablefornothingelse，unlessitbeitswaxenandbejewelledSaintinaglasscase，withtwooddhands；ortheenormousnumberofbeggarswhoareconstantlyrappingtheirchinsthere，likeabatteryofcastanets。Thecathedralwiththebeautifuldoor，andthecolumnsofAfricanandEgyptiangranitethatonceornamentedthetempleofApollo，containsthefamoussacredbloodofSanGennaroorJanuarius:whichispreservedintwophialsinasilvertabernacle，andmiraculouslyliquefiesthreetimesa-year，tothegreatadmirationofthepeople。Atthesamemoment，thestonedistantsomemileswheretheSaintsufferedmartyrdom，becomesfaintlyred。Itissaidthattheofficiatingprieststurnfaintlyredalso，sometimes，whenthesemiraclesoccur。
Theold，oldmenwholiveinhovelsattheentranceoftheseancientcatacombs，andwho，intheirageandinfirmity，seemwaitinghere，tobeburiedthemselves，aremembersofacuriousbody，calledtheRoyalHospital，whoaretheofficialattendantsatfunerals。Twooftheseoldspectrestotteraway，withlightedtapers，toshowthecavernsofdeath-asunconcernedasiftheywereimmortal。Theywereusedasburying-placesforthreehundredyears；and，inonepart，isalargepitfullofskullsandbones，saidtobethesadremainsofagreatmortalityoccasionedbyaplague。Intherestthereisnothingbutdust。Theyconsist，chiefly，ofgreatwidecorridorsandlabyrinths，hewnoutoftherock。Attheendofsomeoftheselongpassages，areunexpectedglimpsesofthedaylight，shiningdownfromabove。Itlooksasghastlyandasstrange；amongthetorches，andthedust，andthedarkvaults:asifit，too，weredeadandburied。
Thepresentburial-placeliesoutyonder，onahillbetweenthecityandVesuvius。TheoldCampoSantowithitsthreehundredandsixty-fivepits，isonlyusedforthosewhodieinhospitals，andprisons，andareunclaimedbytheirfriends。Thegracefulnewcemetery，atnogreatdistancefromit，thoughyetunfinished，hasalreadymanygravesamongitsshrubsandflowers，andairycolonnades。Itmightbereasonablyobjectedelsewhere，thatsomeofthetombsaremeretriciousandtoofanciful；butthegeneralbrightnessseemstojustifyithere；andMountVesuvius，separatedfromthembyalovelyslopeofground，exaltsandsaddensthescene。
IfitbesolemntobeholdfromthisnewCityoftheDead，withitsdarksmokehangingintheclearsky，howmuchmoreawfulandimpressiveisit，viewedfromtheghostlyruinsofHerculaneumandPompeii！
Standatthebottomofthegreatmarket-placeofPompeii，andlookupthesilentstreets，throughtheruinedtemplesofJupiterandIsis，overthebrokenhouseswiththeirinmostsanctuariesopentotheday，awaytoMountVesuvius，brightandsnowyinthepeacefuldistance；andloseallcountoftime，andheedofotherthings，inthestrangeandmelancholysensationofseeingtheDestroyedandtheDestroyermakingthisquietpictureinthesun。Then，rambleon，andsee，ateveryturn，thelittlefamiliartokensofhumanhabitationandevery-daypursuits；thechafingofthebucket-ropeinthestonerimoftheexhaustedwell；thetrackofcarriage-
wheelsinthepavementofthestreet；themarksofdrinking-vesselsonthestonecounterofthewine-shop；theamphoraeinprivatecellars，storedawaysomanyhundredyearsago，andundisturbedtothishour-allrenderingthesolitudeanddeadlylonesomenessoftheplace，tenthousandtimesmoresolemn，thanifthevolcano，initsfury，hadsweptthecityfromtheearth，andsunkitinthebottomofthesea。
Afteritwasshakenbytheearthquakewhichprecededtheeruption，workmenwereemployedinshapingout，instone，newornamentsfortemplesandotherbuildingsthathadsuffered。Hereliestheirwork，outsidethecitygate，asiftheywouldreturnto-morrow。
InthecellarofDiomede\'shouse，wherecertainskeletonswerefoundhuddledtogether，closetothedoor，theimpressionoftheirbodiesontheashes，hardenedwiththeashes，andbecamestampedandfixedthere，aftertheyhadshrunk，inside，toscantybones。
So，inthetheatreofHerculaneum，acomicmask，floatingonthestreamwhenitwashotandliquid，stampeditsmimicfeaturesinitasithardenedintostone；andnow，itturnsuponthestrangerthefantasticlookitturnedupontheaudiencesinthatsametheatretwothousandyearsago。
Nexttothewonderofgoingupanddownthestreets，andinandoutofthehouses，andtraversingthesecretchambersofthetemplesofareligionthathasvanishedfromtheearth，andfindingsomanyfreshtracesofremoteantiquity:asifthecourseofTimehadbeenstoppedafterthisdesolation，andtherehadbeennonightsanddays，months，years，andcenturies，since:nothingismoreimpressiveandterriblethanthemanyevidencesofthesearchingnatureoftheashes，asbespeakingtheirirresistiblepower，andtheimpossibilityofescapingthem。Inthewine-cellars，theyforcedtheirwayintotheearthenvessels:displacingthewineandchokingthem，tothebrim，withdust。Inthetombs，theyforcedtheashesofthedeadfromthefuneralurns，andrainednewruinevenintothem。Themouths，andeyes，andskullsofalltheskeletons，werestuffedwiththisterriblehail。InHerculaneum，wherethefloodwasofadifferentandaheavierkind，itrolledin，likeasea。Imagineadelugeofwaterturnedtomarble，atitsheight-andthatiswhatiscalled\'thelava\'here。
Someworkmenwerediggingthegloomywellonthebrinkofwhichwenowstand，lookingdown，whentheycameonsomeofthestonebenchesofthetheatre-thosestepsforsuchtheyseematthebottomoftheexcavation-andfoundtheburiedcityofHerculaneum。Presentlygoingdown，withlightedtorches，weareperplexedbygreatwallsofmonstrousthickness，risingupbetweenthebenches，shuttingoutthestage，obtrudingtheirshapelessformsinabsurdplaces，confusingthewholeplan，andmakingitadisordereddream。Wecannot，atfirst，believe，orpicturetoourselves，thatTHIScamerollingin，anddrownedthecity；andthatallthatisnothere，hasbeencutaway，bytheaxe，likesolidstone。Butthisperceivedandunderstood，thehorrorandoppressionofitspresenceareindescribable。
Manyofthepaintingsonthewallsintherooflesschambersofbothcities，orcarefullyremovedtothemuseumatNaples，areasfreshandplain，asiftheyhadbeenexecutedyesterday。Herearesubjectsofstilllife，asprovisions，deadgame，bottles，glasses，andthelike；familiarclassicalstories，ormythologicalfables，alwaysforciblyandplainlytold；conceitsofcupids，quarrelling，sporting，workingattrades；theatricalrehearsals；poetsreadingtheirproductionstotheirfriends；inscriptionschalkeduponthewalls；politicalsquibs，advertisements，roughdrawingsbyschoolboys；everythingtopeopleandrestoretheancientcities，inthefancyoftheirwonderingvisitor。Furniture，too，yousee，ofeverykind-lamps，tables，couches；vesselsforeating，drinking，andcooking；workmen\'stools，surgicalinstruments，ticketsforthetheatre，piecesofmoney，personalornaments，bunchesofkeysfoundclenchedinthegraspofskeletons，helmetsofguardsandwarriors；
littlehouseholdbells，yetmusicalwiththeirolddomestictones。
Theleastamongtheseobjects，lendsitsaidtoswelltheinterestofVesuvius，andinvestitwithaperfectfascination。Thelooking，fromeitherruinedcity，intotheneighbouringgroundsovergrownwithbeautifulvinesandluxurianttrees；andrememberingthathouseuponhouse，templeontemple，buildingafterbuilding，andstreetafterstreet，arestilllyingunderneaththerootsofallthequietcultivation，waitingtobeturneduptothelightofday；issomethingsowonderful，sofullofmystery，socaptivatingtotheimagination，thatonewouldthinkitwouldbeparamount，andyieldtonothingelse。TonothingbutVesuvius；butthemountainisthegeniusofthescene。Fromeveryindicationoftheruinithasworked，welook，again，withanabsorbinginteresttowhereitssmokeisrisingupintothesky。Itisbeyondus，aswethreadtheruinedstreets:aboveus，aswestandupontheruinedwalls，wefollowitthrougheveryvistaofbrokencolumns，aswewanderthroughtheemptycourt-yardsofthehouses；andthroughthegarlandingsandinterlacingsofeverywantonvine。TurningawaytoPaestumyonder，toseetheawfulstructuresbuilt，theleastagedofthem，hundredsofyearsbeforethebirthofChrist，andstandingyet，erectinlonelymajesty，uponthewild，malaria-blightedplain-wewatchVesuviusasitdisappearsfromtheprospect，andwatchforitagain，onourreturn，withthesamethrillofinterest:asthedoomanddestinyofallthisbeautifulcountry，bidingitsterribletime。
Itisverywarminthesun，onthisearlyspring-day，whenwereturnfromPaestum，butverycoldintheshade:insomuch，thatalthoughwemaylunch，pleasantly，atnoon，intheopenair，bythegateofPompeii，theneighbouringrivuletsuppliesthickiceforourwine。But，thesunisshiningbrightly；thereisnotacloudorspeckofvapourinthewholebluesky，lookingdownuponthebayofNaples；andthemoonwillbeatthefullto-night。NomatterthatthesnowandiceliethickuponthesummitofVesuvius，orthatwehavebeenonfootalldayatPompeii，orthatcroakersmaintainthatstrangersshouldnotbeonthemountainbynight，insuchanunusualseason。Letustakeadvantageofthefineweather；
makethebestofourwaytoResina，thelittlevillageatthefootofthemountain；prepareourselves，aswellaswecan，onsoshortanotice，attheguide\'shouse；ascendatonce，andhavesunsethalf-wayup，moon-lightatthetop，andmidnighttocomedownin！
Atfouro\'clockintheafternoon，thereisaterribleuproarinthelittlestable-yardofSigniorSalvatore，therecognisedhead-guide，withthegoldbandroundhiscap；andthirtyunder-guideswhoareallscufflingandscreamingatonce，arepreparinghalf-a-dozensaddledponies，threelitters，andsomestoutstaves，forthejourney。Everyoneofthethirty，quarrelswiththeothertwenty-
nine，andfrightensthesixponies；andasmuchofthevillageascanpossiblysqueezeitselfintothelittlestable-yard，participatesinthetumult，andgetstroddenonbythecattle。
Aftermuchviolentskirmishing，andmorenoisethanwouldsufficeforthestormingofNaples，theprocessionstarts。Thehead-guide，whoisliberallypaidforalltheattendants，ridesalittleinadvanceoftheparty；theotherthirtyguidesproceedonfoot。
Eightgoforwardwiththelittersthataretobeusedby-and-by；
andtheremainingtwo-and-twentybeg。
Weascend，gradually，bystonylaneslikeroughbroadflightsofstairs，forsometime。Atlength，weleavethese，andthevineyardsoneithersideofthem，andemergeuponableakbareregionwherethelavaliesconfusedly，inenormousrustymasses；asiftheearthhadbeenploughedupbyburningthunderbolts。Andnow，wehalttoseethesunset。Thechangethatfallsuponthedrearyregion，andonthewholemountain，asitsredlightfades，andthenightcomeson-andtheunutterablesolemnityanddrearinessthatreignaround，whothathaswitnessedit，caneverforget！
Itisdark，whenafterwinding，forsometime，overthebrokenground，wearriveatthefootofthecone:whichisextremelysteep，andseemstorise，almostperpendicularly，fromthespotwherewedismount。Theonlylightisreflectedfromthesnow，deep，hard，andwhite，withwhichtheconeiscovered。Itisnowintenselycold，andtheairispiercing。Thethirty-onehavebroughtnotorches，knowingthatthemoonwillrisebeforewereachthetop。Twoofthelittersaredevotedtothetwoladies；thethird，toaratherheavygentlemanfromNaples，whosehospitalityandgood-naturehaveattachedhimtotheexpedition，anddeterminedhimtoassistindoingthehonoursofthemountain。Theratherheavygentlemaniscarriedbyfifteenmen；eachoftheladiesbyhalf-a-dozen。Wewhowalk，makethebestuseofourstaves；andsothewholepartybegintolabourupwardoverthesnow，-asiftheyweretoilingtothesummitofanantediluvianTwelfth-cake。
Wearealongtimetoilingup；andthehead-guidelooksoddlyabouthimwhenoneofthecompany-notanItalian，thoughanhabitueofthemountainformanyyears:whomwewillcall，forourpresentpurpose，Mr。PickleofPortici-suggeststhat，asitisfreezinghard，andtheusualfootingofashesiscoveredbythesnowandice，itwillsurelybedifficulttodescend。Butthesightofthelittersabove，tiltingupanddown，andjerkingfromthissidetothat，asthebearerscontinuallyslipandtumble，divertsourattention；moreespeciallyasthewholelengthoftheratherheavygentlemanis，atthatmoment，presentedtousalarminglyforeshortened，withhisheaddownwards。
Therisingofthemoonsoonafterwards，revivestheflaggingspiritsofthebearers。Stimulatingeachotherwiththeirusualwatchword，\'Courage，friend！Itistoeatmacaroni！\'theypresson，gallantly，forthesummit。
Fromtingeingthetopofthesnowaboveus，withabandoflight，andpouringitinastreamthroughthevalleybelow，whilewehavebeenascendinginthedark，themoonsoonlightsthewholewhitemountain-side，andthebroadseadownbelow，andtinyNaplesinthedistance，andeveryvillageinthecountryround。Thewholeprospectisinthislovelystate，whenwecomeupontheplatformonthemountain-top-theregionofFire-anexhaustedcraterformedofgreatmassesofgiganticcinders，likeblocksofstonefromsometremendouswaterfall，burntup；fromeverychinkandcreviceofwhich，hot，sulphuroussmokeispouringout:while，fromanotherconical-shapedhill，thepresentcrater，risingabruptlyfromthisplatformattheend，greatsheetsoffirearestreamingforth:
reddeningthenightwithflame，blackeningitwithsmoke，andspottingitwithred-hotstonesandcinders，thatflyupintotheairlikefeathers，andfalldownlikelead。Whatwordscanpaintthegloomandgrandeurofthisscene！
Thebrokenground；thesmoke；thesenseofsuffocationfromthesulphur:thefearoffallingdownthroughthecrevicesintheyawningground；thestopping，everynowandthen，forsomebodywhoismissinginthedarkforthedensesmokenowobscuresthemoon；
theintolerablenoiseofthethirty；andthehoarseroaringofthemountain；makeitasceneofsuchconfusion，atthesametime，thatwereelagain。But，draggingtheladiesthroughit，andacrossanotherexhaustedcratertothefootofthepresentVolcano，weapproachclosetoitonthewindyside，andthensitdownamongthehotashesatitsfoot，andlookupinsilence；faintlyestimatingtheactionthatisgoingonwithin，fromitsbeingfullahundredfeethigher，atthisminute，thanitwassixweeksago。
Thereissomethinginthefireandroar，thatgeneratesanirresistibledesiretogetnearertoit。Wecannotrestlong，withoutstartingoff，twoofus，onourhandsandknees，accompaniedbythehead-guide，toclimbtothebrimoftheflamingcrater，andtrytolookin。Meanwhile，thethirtyyell，aswithonevoice，thatitisadangerousproceeding，andcalltoustocomeback；frighteningtherestofthepartyoutoftheirwits。
Whatwiththeirnoise，andwhatwiththetremblingofthethincrustofground，thatseemsabouttoopenunderneathourfeetandplungeusintheburninggulfbelowwhichistherealdanger，iftherebeany；andwhatwiththeflashingofthefireinourfaces，andtheshowerofred-hotashesthatisrainingdown，andthechokingsmokeandsulphur；wemaywellfeelgiddyandirrational，likedrunkenmen。But，wecontrivetoclimbuptothebrim，andlookdown，foramoment，intotheHellofboilingfirebelow。
Then，weallthreecomerollingdown；blackened，andsinged，andscorched，andhot，andgiddy:andeachwithhisdressalightinhalf-a-dozenplaces。
Youhaveread，athousandtimes，thattheusualwayofdescending，is，byslidingdowntheashes:which，formingagradually-
increasingledgebelowthefeet，preventtoorapidadescent。But，whenwehavecrossedthetwoexhaustedcratersonourwaybackandarecometothisprecipitousplace，thereisasMr。Picklehasforetoldnovestigeofashestobeseen；thewholebeingasmoothsheetofice。
Inthisdilemma，tenoradozenoftheguidescautiouslyjoinhands，andmakeachainofmen；ofwhomtheforemostbeat，aswellastheycan，aroughtrackwiththeirsticks，downwhichwepreparetofollow。Thewaybeingfearfullysteep，andnoneoftheparty:
evenofthethirty:beingabletokeeptheirfeetforsixpacestogether，theladiesaretakenoutoftheirlitters，andplaced，eachbetweentwocarefulpersons；whileothersofthethirtyholdbytheirskirts，topreventtheirfallingforward-anecessaryprecaution，tendingtotheimmediateandhopelessdilapidationoftheirapparel。Theratherheavygentlemanisabjuredtoleavehislittertoo，andbeescortedinasimilarmanner；butheresolvestobebroughtdownashewasbroughtup，ontheprinciplethathisfifteenbearersarenotlikelytotumbleallatonce，andthatheissaferso，thantrustingtohisownlegs。
Inthisorder，webeginthedescent:sometimesonfoot，sometimesshufflingontheice:alwaysproceedingmuchmorequietlyandslowly，thanonourupwardway:andconstantlyalarmedbythefallingamongusofsomebodyfrombehind，whoendangersthefootingofthewholeparty，andclingspertinaciouslytoanybody\'sankles。
Itisimpossibleforthelittertobeinadvance，too，asthetrackhastobemade；anditsappearancebehindus，overhead-withsomeoneorotherofthebearersalwaysdown，andtheratherheavygentlemanwithhislegsalwaysintheair-isverythreateningandfrightful。Wehavegoneonthus，averylittleway，painfullyandanxiously，butquitemerrily，andregardingitasagreatsuccess-
andhaveallfallenseveraltimes，andhaveallbeenstopped，somehoworother，aswewereslidingaway-whenMr。PickleofPortici，intheactofremarkingontheseuncommoncircumstancesasquitebeyondhisexperience，stumbles，falls，disengageshimself，withquickpresenceofmind，fromthoseabouthim，plungesawayheadforemost，androlls，overandover，downthewholesurfaceofthecone！
Sickeningasitistolook，andbesopowerlesstohelphim，Iseehimthere，inthemoonlight-Ihavehadsuchadreamoften-
skimmingoverthewhiteice，likeacannon-ball。Almostatthesamemoment，thereisacryfrombehind；andamanwhohascarriedalightbasketofsparecloaksonhishead，comesrollingpast，atthesamefrightfulspeed，closelyfollowedbyaboy。Atthisclimaxofthechapterofaccidents，theremainingeight-and-twentyvociferatetothatdegree，thatapackofwolveswouldbemusictothem！
Giddy，andbloody，andamerebundleofrags，isPickleofPorticiwhenwereachtheplacewherewedismounted，andwherethehorsesarewaiting；but，thankGod，soundinlimb！Andneverarewelikelytobemoregladtoseeamanaliveandonhisfeet，thantoseehimnow-makinglightofittoo，thoughsorelybruisedandingreatpain。TheboyisbroughtintotheHermitageontheMountain，whileweareatsupper，withhisheadtiedup；andthemanisheardof，somehoursafterwards。Hetooisbruisedandstunned，buthasbrokennobones；thesnowhaving，fortunately，coveredallthelargerblocksofrockandstone，andrenderedthemharmless。
Afteracheerfulmeal，andagoodrestbeforeablazingfire，weagaintakehorse，andcontinueourdescenttoSalvatore\'shouse-
veryslowly，byreasonofourbruisedfriendbeinghardlyabletokeepthesaddle，orendurethepainofmotion。Thoughitissolateatnight，orearlyinthemorning，allthepeopleofthevillagearewaitingaboutthelittlestable-yardwhenwearrive，andlookinguptheroadbywhichweareexpected。Ourappearanceishailedwithagreatclamouroftongues，andageneralsensationforwhichinourmodestywearesomewhatatalosstoaccount，until，turningintotheyard，wefindthatoneofapartyofFrenchgentlemenwhowereonthemountainatthesametimeislyingonsomestrawinthestable，withabrokenlimb:lookinglikeDeath，andsufferinggreattorture；andthatwewereconfidentlysupposedtohaveencounteredsomeworseaccident。
So\'wellreturned，andHeavenbepraised！\'asthecheerfulVetturino，whohasborneuscompanyallthewayfromPisa，says，withallhisheart！Andawaywithhisreadyhorses，intosleepingNaples！
ItwakesagaintoPolicinelliandpickpockets，buffosingersandbeggars，rags，puppets，flowers，brightness，dirt，anduniversaldegradation；airingitsHarlequinsuitinthesunshine，nextdayandeveryday；singing，starving，dancing，gaming，onthesea-
shore；andleavingalllabourtotheburningmountain，whichiseveratitswork。
OurEnglishdilettantiwouldbeverypatheticonthesubjectofthenationaltaste，iftheycouldhearanItalianoperahalfasbadlysunginEnglandaswemayheartheFoscariperformed，to-night，inthesplendidtheatreofSanCarlo。But，forastonishingtruthandspiritinseizingandembodyingthereallifeaboutit，theshabbylittleSanCarlinoTheatre-thericketyhouseonestoryhigh，withastaringpictureoutside:downamongthedrumsandtrumpets，andthetumblers，andtheladyconjurer-iswithoutarivalanywhere。
ThereisoneextraordinaryfeatureinthereallifeofNaples，atwhichwemaytakeaglancebeforewego-theLotteries。
TheyprevailinmostpartsofItaly，butareparticularlyobvious，intheireffectsandinfluences，here。TheyaredrawneverySaturday。TheybringanimmenserevenuetotheGovernment；anddiffuseatasteforgamblingamongthepoorestofthepoor，whichisverycomfortabletothecoffersoftheState，andveryruinoustothemselves。Theloweststakeisonegrain；lessthanafarthing。Onehundrednumbers-fromonetoahundred，inclusive-
areputintoabox。Fivearedrawn。Thosearetheprizes。Ibuythreenumbers。Ifoneofthemcomeup，Iwinasmallprize。Iftwo，somehundredsoftimesmystake。Ifthree，threethousandfivehundredtimesmystake。Istakeorplayastheycallit
whatIcanuponmynumbers，andbuywhatnumbersIplease。TheamountIplay，Ipayatthelotteryoffice，whereIpurchasetheticket；anditisstatedontheticketitself。
Everylotteryofficekeepsaprintedbook，anUniversalLotteryDiviner，whereeverypossibleaccidentandcircumstanceisprovidedfor，andhasanumberagainstit。Forinstance，letustaketwocarlini-aboutsevenpence。Onourwaytothelotteryoffice，werunagainstablackman。Whenwegetthere，wesaygravely，\'TheDiviner。\'Itishandedoverthecounter，asaseriousmatterofbusiness。Welookatblackman。Suchanumber。\'Giveusthat。\'
Welookatrunningagainstapersoninthestreet。\'Giveusthat。
\'Welookatthenameofthestreetitself。\'Giveusthat。\'Now，wehaveourthreenumbers。
IftheroofofthetheatreofSanCarloweretofallin，somanypeoplewouldplayuponthenumbersattachedtosuchanaccidentintheDiviner，thattheGovernmentwouldsoonclosethosenumbers，anddeclinetoruntheriskoflosinganymoreuponthem。Thisoftenhappens。Notlongago，whentherewasafireintheKing\'sPalace，therewassuchadesperaterunonfire，andking，andpalace，thatfurtherstakesonthenumbersattachedtothosewordsintheGoldenBookwereforbidden。Everyaccidentorevent，issupposed，bytheignorantpopulace，tobearevelationtothebeholder，orpartyconcerned，inconnectionwiththelottery。
Certainpeoplewhohaveatalentfordreamingfortunately，aremuchsoughtafter；andtherearesomepriestswhoareconstantlyfavouredwithvisionsoftheluckynumbers。
Iheardofahorserunningawaywithaman，anddashinghimdown，dead，atthecornerofastreet。Pursuingthehorsewithincrediblespeed，wasanotherman，whoransofast，thathecameup，immediatelyaftertheaccident。Hethrewhimselfuponhiskneesbesidetheunfortunaterider，andclaspedhishandwithanexpressionofthewildestgrief。\'Ifyouhavelife，\'hesaid，\'speakonewordtome！Ifyouhaveonegaspofbreathleft，mentionyourageforHeaven\'ssake，thatImayplaythatnumberinthelottery。\'
Itisfouro\'clockintheafternoon，andwemaygotoseeourlotterydrawn。TheceremonytakesplaceeverySaturday，intheTribunale，orCourtofJustice-thissingular，earthy-smellingroom，orgallery，asmouldyasanoldcellar，andasdampasadungeon。Attheupperendisaplatform，withalargehorse-shoetableuponit；andaPresidentandCouncilsittinground-alljudgesoftheLaw。ThemanonthelittlestoolbehindthePresident，istheCapoLazzarone，akindoftribuneofthepeople，appointedontheirbehalftoseethatallisfairlyconducted:
attendedbyafewpersonalfriends。Aragged，swarthyfellowheis:withlongmattedhairhangingdownalloverhisface:andcovered，fromheadtofoot，withmostunquestionablygenuinedirt。
AllthebodyoftheroomisfilledwiththecommonestoftheNeapolitanpeople:andbetweenthemandtheplatform，guardingthestepsleadingtothelatter，isasmallbodyofsoldiers。
Thereissomedelayinthearrivalofthenecessarynumberofjudges；duringwhich，thebox，inwhichthenumbersarebeingplaced，isasourceofthedeepestinterest。Whentheboxisfull，theboywhoistodrawthenumbersoutofitbecomestheprominentfeatureoftheproceedings。Heisalreadydressedforhispart，inatightbrownHollandcoat，withonlyonetheleftsleevetoit，whichleaveshisrightarmbaredtotheshoulder，readyforplungingdownintothemysteriouschest。
Duringthehushandwhisperthatpervadetheroom，alleyesareturnedonthisyoungministeroffortune。Peoplebegintoinquirehisage，withaviewtothenextlottery；andthenumberofhisbrothersandsisters；andtheageofhisfatherandmother；andwhetherhehasanymolesorpimplesuponhim；andwhere，andhowmany；whenthearrivalofthelastjudgebutonealittleoldman，universallydreadedaspossessingtheEvilEyemakesaslightdiversion，andwouldoccasionagreaterone，butthatheisimmediatelydeposed，asasourceofinterest，bytheofficiatingpriest，whoadvancesgravelytohisplace，followedbyaverydirtylittleboy，carryinghissacredvestments，andapotofHolyWater。
Hereisthelastjudgecomeatlast，andnowhetakeshisplaceatthehorse-shoetable。
Thereisamurmurofirrepressibleagitation。Inthemidstofit，thepriestputshisheadintothesacredvestments，andpullsthesameoverhisshoulders。Thenhesaysasilentprayer；anddippingabrushintothepotofHolyWater，sprinklesitoverthebox-andovertheboy，andgivesthemadouble-barrelledblessing，whichtheboxandtheboyarebothhoistedonthetabletoreceive。Theboyremainingonthetable，theboxisnowcarriedroundthefrontoftheplatform，byanattendant，whoholdsitupandshakesitlustilyallthetime；seemingtosay，liketheconjurer，\'Thereisnodeception，ladiesandgentlemen；keepyoureyesuponme，ifyouplease！\'
Atlast，theboxissetbeforetheboy；andtheboy，firstholdinguphisnakedarmandopenhand，divesdownintotheholeitismadelikeaballot-boxandpullsoutanumber，whichisrolledup，roundsomethinghard，likeabonbon。Thishehandstothejudgenexthim，whounrollsalittlebit，andhandsittothePresident，nexttowhomhesits。ThePresidentunrollsit，veryslowly。TheCapoLazzaroneleansoverhisshoulder。ThePresidentholdsitup，unrolled，totheCapoLazzarone。TheCapoLazzarone，lookingatiteagerly，criesout，inashrill，loudvoice，\'Sessantadue！\'sixty-
two，expressingthetwouponhisfingers，ashecallsitout。
Alas！theCapoLazzaronehimselfhasnotstakedonsixty-two。Hisfaceisverylong，andhiseyesrollwildly。
Asithappenstobeafavouritenumber，however，itisprettywellreceived，whichisnotalwaysthecase。Theyarealldrawnwiththesameceremony，omittingtheblessing。Oneblessingisenoughforthewholemultiplication-table。Theonlynewincidentintheproceedings，isthegraduallydeepeningintensityofthechangeintheCapeLazzarone，whohas，evidently，speculatedtotheveryutmostextentofhismeans；andwho，whenheseesthelastnumber，andfindsthatitisnotoneofhis，claspshishands，andraiseshiseyestotheceilingbeforeproclaimingit，asthoughremonstrating，inasecretagony，withhispatronsaint，forhavingcommittedsogrossabreachofconfidence。IhopetheCapoLazzaronemaynotdeserthimforsomeothermemberoftheCalendar，butheseemstothreatenit。
Wherethewinnersmaybe，nobodyknows。Theycertainlyarenotpresent；thegeneraldisappointmentfillingonewithpityforthepoorpeople。Theylook:whenwestandaside，observingthem，intheirpassagethroughthecourt-yarddownbelow:asmiserableastheprisonersinthegaolitformsapartofthebuilding，whoarepeepingdownuponthem，frombetweentheirbars；or，asthefragmentsofhumanheadswhicharestilldanglinginchainsoutside，inmemoryofthegoodoldtimes，whentheirownerswerestrungupthere，forthepopularedification。
AwayfromNaplesinaglorioussunrise，bytheroadtoCapua，andthenonathreedays\'journeyalongby-roads，thatwemaysee，ontheway，themonasteryofMonteCassino，whichisperchedonthesteepandloftyhillabovethelittletownofSanGermano，andislostonamistymorningintheclouds。
Somuchthebetter，forthedeepsoundingofitsbell，which，aswegowindingup，onmules，towardstheconvent，isheardmysteriouslyinthestillair，whilenothingisseenbutthegreymist，movingsolemnlyandslowly，likeafuneralprocession。Behold，atlengththeshadowypileofbuildingclosebeforeus:itsgreywallsandtowersdimlyseen，thoughsonearandsovast:andtherawvapourrollingthroughitscloistersheavily。
Therearetwoblackshadowswalkingtoandfrointhequadrangle，nearthestatuesofthePatronSaintandhissister；andhoppingonbehindthem，inandoutoftheoldarches，isaraven，croakinginanswertothebell，anduttering，atintervals，thepurestTuscan。
HowlikeaJesuithelooks！Thereneverwasaslyandstealthyfellowsoathomeasisthisraven，standingnowattherefectorydoor，withhisheadononeside，andpretendingtoglanceanotherway，whileheisscrutinizingthevisitorskeenly，andlisteningwithfixedattention。Whatadull-headedmonktheporterbecomesincomparison！
\'Hespeakslikeus！\'saystheporter:\'quiteasplainly。\'Quiteasplainly，Porter。Nothingcouldbemoreexpressivethanhisreceptionofthepeasantswhoareenteringthegatewithbasketsandburdens。Thereisarollinhiseye，andachuckleinhisthroat，whichshouldqualifyhimtobechosenSuperiorofanOrderofRavens。Heknowsallaboutit。\'It\'sallright，\'hesays。\'Weknowwhatweknow。Comealong，goodpeople。Gladtoseeyou！\'
Howwasthisextraordinarystructureeverbuiltinsuchasituation，wherethelabourofconveyingthestone，andiron，andmarble，sogreataheight，musthavebeenprodigious?\'Caw！\'saystheraven，welcomingthepeasants。How，beingdespoiledbyplunder，fireandearthquake，hasitrisenfromitsruins，andbeenagainmadewhatwenowseeit，withitschurchsosumptuousandmagnificent?\'Caw！\'saystheraven，welcomingthepeasants。Thesepeoplehaveamiserableappearance，andasusualaredenselyignorant，andallbeg，whilethemonksarechauntinginthechapel。
\'Caw！\'saystheraven，\'Cuckoo！\'
Soweleavehim，chucklingandrollinghiseyeattheconventgate，andwindslowlydownagainthroughthecloud。Atlastemergingfromit，wecomeinsightofthevillagefarbelow，andtheflatgreencountryintersectedbyrivulets；whichispleasantandfreshtoseeaftertheobscurityandhazeoftheconvent-nodisrespecttotheraven，ortheholyfriars。
Awaywegoagain，bymuddyroads，andthroughthemostshatteredandtatteredofvillages，wherethereisnotawholewindowamongallthehouses，orawholegarmentamongallthepeasants，ortheleastappearanceofanythingtoeat，inanyofthewretchedhucksters\'shops。Thewomenwearabrightredbodicelacedbeforeandbehind，awhiteskirt，andtheNeapolitanhead-dressofsquarefoldsoflinen，primitivelymeanttocarryloadson。Themenandchildrenwearanythingtheycanget。Thesoldiersareasdirtyandrapaciousasthedogs。Theinnsaresuchhobgoblinplaces，thattheyareinfinitelymoreattractiveandamusingthanthebesthotelsinParis。HereisonenearValmontonethatisValmontonetheround，walledtownonthemountopposite，whichisapproachedbyaquagmirealmostknee-deep。Thereisawildcolonnadebelow，andadarkyardfullofemptystablesandlofts，andagreatlongkitchenwithagreatlongbenchandagreatlongform，whereapartyoftravellers，withtwopriestsamongthem，arecrowdingroundthefirewhiletheirsupperiscooking。Abovestairs，isaroughbrickgallerytositin，withverylittlewindowswithverysmallpatchesofknottyglassinthem，andallthedoorsthatopenfromitadozenortwoofftheirhinges，andabareboardontresselsforatable，atwhichthirtypeoplemightdineeasily，andafireplacelargeenoughinitselfforabreakfast-parlour，where，asthefaggotsblazeandcrackle，theyilluminatetheugliestandgrimmestoffaces，drawnincharcoalonthewhitewashedchimney-
sidesbyprevioustravellers。Thereisaflaringcountrylamponthetable；and，hoveringaboutit，scratchingherthickblackhaircontinually，ayellowdwarfofawoman，whostandsontiptoetoarrangethehatchetknives，andtakesaflyingleaptolookintothewater-jug。Thebedsintheadjoiningroomsareoftheliveliestkind。Thereisnotasolitaryscrapoflooking-glassinthehouse，andthewashingapparatusisidenticalwiththecookingutensils。Buttheyellowdwarfsetsonthetableagoodflaskofexcellentwine，holdingaquartatleast；andproduces，amonghalf-
a-dozenotherdishes，two-thirdsofaroastedkid，smokinghot。
Sheisasgood-humoured，too，asdirty，whichissayingagreatdeal。Sohere\'slonglifetoher，intheflaskofwine，andprosperitytotheestablishment。
Romegainedandleftbehind，andwithitthePilgrimswhoarenowrepairingtotheirownhomesagain-eachwithhisscallopshellandstaff，andsolicitingalmsfortheloveofGod-wecome，byafaircountry，totheFallsofTerni，wherethewholeVelinoriverdashes，headlong，fromarockyheight，amidstshiningsprayandrainbows。Perugia，stronglyfortifiedbyartandnature，onaloftyeminence，risingabruptlyfromtheplainwherepurplemountainsminglewiththedistantsky，isglowing，onitsmarket-
day，withradiantcolours。TheysetoffitssombrebutrichGothicbuildingsadmirably。Thepavementofitsmarket-placeisstrewnwithcountrygoods。Allalongthesteephillleadingfromthetown，underthetownwall，thereisanoisyfairofcalves，lambs，pigs，horses，mules，andoxen。Fowls，geese，andturkeys，fluttervigorouslyamongtheirveryhoofs；andbuyers，sellers，andspectators，clusteringeverywhere，blockuptheroadaswecomeshoutingdownuponthem。
Suddenly，thereisaringingsoundamongourhorses。Thedriverstopsthem。Sinkinginhissaddle，andcastinguphiseyestoHeaven，hedeliversthisapostrophe，\'OhJoveOmnipotent！hereisahorsehaslosthisshoe！\'
Notwithstandingthetremendousnatureofthisaccident，andtheutterlyforlornlookandgestureimpossibleinanyonebutanItalianVetturinowithwhichitisannounced，itisnotlonginbeingrepairedbyamortalFarrier，bywhoseassistancewereachCastiglionethesamenight，andArezzonextday。Massis，ofcourse，performinginitsfinecathedral，wherethesunshinesinamongtheclusteredpillars，throughrichstained-glasswindows:
halfrevealing，halfconcealingthekneelingfiguresonthepavement，andstrikingoutpathsofspottedlightinthelongaisles。
But，howmuchbeautyofanotherkindishere，when，onafairclearmorning，welook，fromthesummitofahill，onFlorence！Seewhereitliesbeforeusinasun-lightedvalley，brightwiththewindingArno，andshutinbyswellinghills；itsdomes，andtowers，andpalaces，risingfromtherichcountryinaglitteringheap，andshininginthesunlikegold！
MagnificentlysternandsombrearethestreetsofbeautifulFlorence；andthestrongoldpilesofbuildingmakesuchheapsofshadow，onthegroundandintheriver，thatthereisanotherandadifferentcityofrichformsandfancies，alwayslyingatourfeet。
Prodigiouspalaces，constructedfordefence，withsmalldistrustfulwindowsheavilybarred，andwallsofgreatthicknessformedofhugemassesofroughstone，frown，intheiroldsulkystate，oneverystreet。Inthemidstofthecity-inthePiazzaoftheGrandDuke，adornedwithbeautifulstatuesandtheFountainofNeptune-
risesthePalazzoVecchio，withitsenormousoverhangingbattlements，andtheGreatTowerthatwatchesoverthewholetown。
Initscourt-yard-worthyoftheCastleofOtrantoinitsponderousgloom-isamassivestaircasethattheheaviestwaggonandthestoutestteamofhorsesmightbedrivenup。Withinit，isaGreatSaloon，fadedandtarnishedinitsstatelydecorations，andmoulderingbygrains，butrecordingyet，inpicturesonitswalls，thetriumphsoftheMediciandthewarsoftheoldFlorentinepeople。Theprisonishardby，inanadjacentcourt-yardofthebuilding-afoulanddismalplace，wheresomemenareshutupclose，insmallcellslikeovens；andwhereotherslookthroughbarsandbeg；wheresomeareplayingdraughts，andsomearetalkingtotheirfriends，whosmoke，thewhile，topurifytheair；andsomearebuyingwineandfruitofwomen-vendors；andallaresqualid，dirty，andviletolookat。\'Theyaremerryenough，Signore，\'saysthejailer。\'Theyareallblood-stainedhere，\'headds，indicating，withhishand，three-fourthsofthewholebuilding。
Beforethehourisout，anoldman，eightyyearsofage，quarrellingoverabargainwithayounggirlofseventeen，stabsherdead，inthemarket-placefullofbrightflowers；andisbroughtinprisoner，toswellthenumber。
Amongthefouroldbridgesthatspantheriver，thePonteVecchio-
thatbridgewhichiscoveredwiththeshopsofJewellersandGoldsmiths-isamostenchantingfeatureinthescene。Thespaceofonehouse，inthecentre，beingleftopen，theviewbeyondisshownasinaframe；andthatpreciousglimpseofsky，andwater，andrichbuildings，shiningsoquietlyamongthehuddledroofsandgablesonthebridge，isexquisite。Aboveit，theGalleryoftheGrandDukecrossestheriver。ItwasbuilttoconnectthetwoGreatPalacesbyasecretpassage；andittakesitsjealouscourseamongthestreetsandhouses，withtruedespotism:goingwhereitlists，andspurningeveryobstacleaway，beforeit。
TheGrandDukehasaworthiersecretpassagethroughthestreets，inhisblackrobeandhood，asamemberoftheCompagniadellaMisericordia，whichbrotherhoodincludesallranksofmen。Ifanaccidenttakeplace，theirofficeis，toraisethesufferer，andbearhimtenderlytotheHospital。Ifafirebreakout，itisoneoftheirfunctionstorepairtothespot，andrendertheirassistanceandprotection。Itis，also，amongtheircommonestoffices，toattendandconsolethesick；andtheyneitherreceivemoney，noreat，nordrink，inanyhousetheyvisitforthispurpose。Thosewhoareondutyforthetime，areallcalledtogether，onamoment\'snotice，bythetollingofthegreatbelloftheTower；anditissaidthattheGrandDukehasbeenseen，atthissound，torisefromhisseatattable，andquietlywithdrawtoattendthesummons。
InthisotherlargePiazza，whereanirregularkindofmarketisheld，andstoresofoldironandothersmallmerchandisearesetoutonstalls，orscatteredonthepavement，aregroupedtogether，theCathedralwithitsgreatDome，thebeautifulItalianGothicTowertheCampanile，andtheBaptisterywithitswroughtbronzedoors。Andhere，asmalluntroddensquareinthepavement，is\'theStoneofDANTE，\'wheresorunsthestoryhewasusedtobringhisstool，andsitincontemplation。Iwonderwasheever，inhisbitterexile，withheldfromcursingtheverystonesinthestreetsofFlorencetheungrateful，byanykindremembranceofthisoldmusing-place，anditsassociationwithgentlethoughtsoflittleBeatrice！
ThechapeloftheMedici，theGoodandBadAngels，ofFlorence；thechurchofSantaCrocewhereMichaelAngeloliesburied，andwhereeverystoneinthecloistersiseloquentongreatmen\'sdeaths；
innumerablechurches，oftenmassesofunfinishedheavybrickworkexternally，butsolemnandserenewithin；arrestourlingeringsteps，instrollingthroughthecity。
Inkeepingwiththetombsamongthecloisters，istheMuseumofNaturalHistory，famousthroughtheworldforitspreparationsinwax；beginningwithmodelsofleaves，seeds，plants，inferioranimals；andgraduallyascending，throughseparateorgansofthehumanframe，uptothewholestructureofthatwonderfulcreation，exquisitelypresented，asinrecentdeath。Fewadmonitionsofourfrailmortalitycanbemoresolemnandmoresad，orstrikesohomeupontheheart，asthecounterfeitsofYouthandBeautythatarelyingthere，upontheirbeds，intheirlastsleep。
Beyondthewalls，thewholesweetValleyoftheArno，theconventatFiesole，theTowerofGalileo，BOCCACCIO\'Shouse，oldvillasandretreats；innumerablespotsofinterest，allglowinginalandscapeofsurpassingbeautysteepedintherichestlight；arespreadbeforeus。Returningfromsomuchbrightness，howsolemnandhowgrandthestreetsagain，withtheirgreat，dark，mournfulpalaces，andmanylegends:notofsiege，andwar，andmight，andIronHandalone，butofthetriumphantgrowthofpeacefulArtsandSciences。
Whatlightisshedupontheworld，atthisday，fromamidsttheseruggedPalacesofFlorence！Here，opentoallcomers，intheirbeautifulandcalmretreats，theancientSculptorsareimmortal，sidebysidewithMichaelAngelo，Canova，Titian，Rembrandt，Raphael，Poets，Historians，Philosophers-thoseillustriousmenofhistory，besidewhomitscrownedheadsandharnessedwarriorsshowsopoorandsmall，andaresosoonforgotten。Here，theimperishablepartofnoblemindssurvives，placidandequal，whenstrongholdsofassaultanddefenceareoverthrown；whenthetyrannyofthemany，orthefew，orboth，isbutatale；whenPrideandPoweraresomuchcloistereddust。Thefirewithinthesternstreets，andamongthemassivePalacesandTowers，kindledbyraysfromHeaven，isstillburningbrightly，whentheflickeringofwarisextinguishedandthehouseholdfiresofgenerationshavedecayed；asthousandsuponthousandsoffaces，rigidwiththestrifeandpassionofthehour，havefadedoutoftheoldSquaresandpublichaunts，whilethenamelessFlorentineLady，preservedfromoblivionbyaPainter\'shand，yetliveson，inenduringgraceandyouth。
LetuslookbackonFlorencewhilewemay，andwhenitsshiningDomeisseennomore，gotravellingthroughcheerfulTuscany，withabrightremembranceofit；forItalywillbethefairerfortherecollection。Thesummer-timebeingcome:andGenoa，andMilan，andtheLakeofComolyingfarbehindus:andwerestingatFaido，aSwissvillage，neartheawfulrocksandmountains，theeverlastingsnowsandroaringcataracts，oftheGreatSaintGothard:hearingtheItaliantongueforthelasttimeonthisjourney:letuspartfromItaly，withallitsmiseriesandwrongs，affectionately，inouradmirationofthebeauties，naturalandartificial，ofwhichitisfulltooverflowing，andinourtendernesstowardsapeople，naturallywell-disposed，andpatient，andsweet-tempered。Yearsofneglect，oppression，andmisrule，havebeenatwork，tochangetheirnatureandreducetheirspirit；
miserablejealousies，fomentedbypettyPrincestowhomunionwasdestruction，anddivisionstrength，havebeenacankerattheirrootofnationality，andhavebarbarizedtheirlanguage；butthegoodthatwasinthemever，isinthemyet，andanoblepeoplemaybe，oneday，raisedupfromtheseashes。Letusentertainthathope！AndletusnotrememberItalythelessregardfully，because，ineveryfragmentofherfallenTemples，andeverystoneofherdesertedpalacesandprisons，shehelpstoinculcatethelessonthatthewheelofTimeisrollingforanend，andthattheworldis，inallgreatessentials，better，gentler，moreforbearing，andmorehopeful，asitrolls！
End