第15章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"The Innocents Abroad",免费读到尾

  ButcheredtomakeaRomanholidaysoundswellforthefirstseventeenoreighteenhundredthousandtimesoneseesitinprint,butafterthatitbeginstogrowtiresome。IfinditinallthebooksconcerningRome——andherelatterlyitremindsmeofJudgeOliver。Oliverwasayounglawyer,freshfromtheschools,whohadgoneouttothedesertsofNevadatobeginlife。Hefoundthatcountry,andourwaysoflife,there,inthoseearlydays,differentfromlifeinNewEnglandorParis。Butheputonawoollenshirtandstrappedanavyrevolvertohisperson,tooktothebaconandbeansofthecountry,anddeterminedtodoinNevadaasNevadadid。Oliveracceptedthesituationsocompletelythatalthoughhemusthavesorrowedovermanyofhistrials,henevercomplained——thatis,henevercomplainedbutonce。He,twoothers,andmyself,startedtothenewsilverminesintheHumboldtmountains——hetobeProbateJudgeofHumboldtcounty,andwetomine。Thedistancewastwohundredmiles。Itwasdeadofwinter。

  Weboughtatwo—horsewagonandputeighteenhundredpoundsofbacon,flour,beans,blasting—powder,picksandshovelsinit;weboughttwosorry—lookingMexican\"plugs,\"withthehairturnedthewrongwayandmorecornersontheirbodiesthanthereareonthemosqueofOmar;wehitchedupandstarted。

  Itwasadreadfultrip。ButOliverdidnotcomplain。Thehorsesdraggedthewagontwomilesfromtownandthengaveout。Thenwethreepushedthewagonsevenmiles,andOlivermovedaheadandpulledthehorsesafterhimbythebits。Wecomplained,butOliverdidnot。Thegroundwasfrozen,anditfrozeourbackswhileweslept;thewindsweptacrossourfacesandfrozeournoses。Oliverdidnotcomplain。Fivedaysofpushingthewagonbydayandfreezingbynightbroughtustothebadpartofthejourney——theFortyMileDesert,ortheGreatAmericanDesert,ifyouplease。Still,thismildest—manneredmanthateverwas,hadnotcomplained。Westartedacrossateightinthemorning,pushingthroughsandthathadnobottom;

  toilingalldaylongbythewrecksofathousandwagons,theskeletonsoftenthousandoxen;bywagon—tiresenoughtohooptheWashingtonMonumenttothetop,andox—chainsenoughtogirdleLongIsland;byhumangraves;

  withourthroatsparchedalways,withthirst;lipsbleedingfromthealkalidust;hungry,perspiring,andvery,veryweary——sowearythatwhenwedroppedinthesandeveryfiftyyardstorestthehorses,wecouldhardlykeepfromgoingtosleep——nocomplaintsfromOliver:nonethenextmorningatthreeo\'clock,whenwegotacross,tiredtodeath。

  Awakenedtwoorthreenightsafterwardatmidnight,inanarrowcanon,bythesnowfallingonourfaces,andappalledattheimminentdangerofbeing\"snowedin,\"weharnessedupandpushedontilleightinthemorning,passedthe\"Divide\"andknewweweresaved。Nocomplaints。Fifteendaysofhardshipandfatiguebroughtustotheendofthetwohundredmiles,andtheJudgehadnotcomplained。Wewonderedifanythingcouldexasperatehim。WebuiltaHumboldthouse。Itisdoneinthisway。Youdigasquareinthesteepbaseofthemountain,andsetuptwouprightsandtopthemwithtwojoists。Thenyoustretchagreatsheetof\"cottondomestic\"fromthepointwherethejoistsjointhehill—sidedownoverthejoiststotheground;thismakestheroofandthefrontofthemansion;thesidesandbackarethedirtwallsyourdigginghasleft。Achimneyiseasilymadebyturninguponecorneroftheroof。Oliverwassittingaloneinthisdismalden,onenight,byasage—brushfire,writingpoetry;hewasveryfondofdiggingpoetryoutofhimself——orblastingitoutwhenitcamehard。Heheardananimal\'sfootstepsclosetotheroof;astoneortwoandsomedirtcamethroughandfellbyhim。Hegrewuneasyandsaid\"Hi!

  ——clearoutfromthere,can\'tyou!\"——fromtimetotime。Butbyandbyhefellasleepwherehesat,andprettysoonamulefelldownthechimney!

  Thefireflewineverydirection,andOliverwentoverbackwards。Abouttennightsafterthat,herecoveredconfidenceenoughtogotowritingpoetryagain。Againhedozedofftosleep,andagainamulefelldownthechimney。Thistime,abouthalfofthatsideofthehousecameinwiththemule。Strugglingtogetup,themulekickedthecandleoutandsmashedmostofthekitchenfurniture,andraisedconsiderabledust。TheseviolentawakeningsmusthavebeenannoyingtoOliver,buthenevercomplained。

  Hemovedtoamansionontheoppositesideofthecanon,becausehehadnoticedthemulesdidnotgothere。Onenightabouteighto\'clockhewasendeavoringtofinishhispoem,whenastonerolledin——thenahoofappearedbelowthecanvas——thenpartofacow——theafterpart。Heleanedbackindread,andshouted\"Hooy!hooy!getoutofthis!\"andthecowstruggledmanfully——lostgroundsteadily——dirtandduststreameddown,andbeforeOlivercouldgetwellaway,theentirecowcrashedthroughontothetableandmadeashapelesswreckofeverything!

  Then,forthefirsttimeinhislife,Ithink,Olivercomplained。Hesaid,\"Thisthingisgrowingmonotonous!\"

  ThenheresignedhisjudgeshipandleftHumboldtcounty。\"ButcheredtomakeaRomanholiday\"hasgrownmonotonoustome。

  InthisconnectionIwishtosayonewordaboutMichaelAngeloBuonarotti。

  IusedtoworshipthemightygeniusofMichaelAngelo——thatmanwhowasgreatinpoetry,painting,sculpture,architecture——greatineverythingheundertook。ButIdonotwantMichaelAngeloforbreakfast——forluncheon——fordinner——fortea——forsupper——forbetweenmeals。Ilikeachange,occasionally。InGenoa,hedesignedeverything;inMilanheorhispupilsdesignedeverything;hedesignedtheLakeofComo;inPadua,Verona,Venice,Bologna,whodidweeverhearof,fromguides,butMichaelAngelo?InFlorence,hepaintedeverything,designedeverything,nearly,andwhathedidnotdesignheusedtositonafavoritestoneandlookat,andtheyshowedusthestone。InPisahedesignedeverythingbuttheoldshot—tower,andtheywouldhaveat—tributedthattohimifithadnotbeensoawfullyoutoftheperpendicular。HedesignedthepiersofLeghornandthecustomhouseregulationsofCivitaVecchia。But,here——hereitisfrightful。

  HedesignedSt。Peter\'s;hedesignedthePope;hedesignedthePantheon,theuniformofthePope\'ssoldiers,theTiber,theVatican,theColiseum,theCapitol,theTarpeianRock,theBarberiniPalace,St。JohnLateran,theCampagna,theAppianWay,theSevenHills,theBathsofCaracalla,theClaudianAqueduct,theCloacaMaxima——theeternalboredesignedtheEternalCity,andunlessallmenandbooksdolie,hepaintedeverythinginit!Dansaidtheotherdaytotheguide,\"Enough,enough,enough!Saynomore!Lumpthewholething!saythattheCreatormadeItalyfromdesignsbyMichaelAngelo!\"

  Ineverfeltsoferventlythankful,sosoothed,sotranquil,sofilledwithablessedpeace,asIdidyesterdaywhenIlearnedthatMichaelAngelowasdead。

  Butwehavetakenitoutofthisguide。HehasmarchedusthroughmilesofpicturesandsculptureinthevastcorridorsoftheVatican;andthroughmilesofpicturesandsculptureintwentyotherpalaces;hehasshownusthegreatpictureintheSistineChapel,andfrescoesenoughtofrescoetheheavens——prettymuchalldonebyMichaelAngelo。Sowithhimwehaveplayedthatgamewhichhasvanquishedsomanyguidesforus——imbecilityandidioticquestions。Thesecreaturesneversuspect——theyhavenoideaofasarcasm。

  Heshowsusafigureandsays:\"Statoobrunzo。\"(Bronzestatue。)

  Welookatitindifferentlyandthedoctorasks:\"ByMichaelAngelo?\"

  \"No——notknowwho。\"

  ThenheshowsustheancientRomanForum。Thedoctorasks:\"MichaelAngelo?\"

  Astarefromtheguide。\"No——thousan\'yearbeforeheisborn。\"

  ThenanEgyptianobelisk。Again:\"MichaelAngelo?\"

  \"Oh,mondieu,genteelmen!Zisistwothousan\'yearbeforeheisborn!\"

  Hegrowssotiredofthatunceasingquestionsometimes,thathedreadstoshowusanythingatall。ThewretchhastriedallthewayshecanthinkoftomakeuscomprehendthatMichaelAngeloisonlyresponsibleforthecreationofapartoftheworld,butsomehowhehasnotsucceededyet。

  Reliefforovertaskedeyesandbrainfromstudyandsightseeingisnecessary,orweshallbecomeidioticsureenough。Thereforethisguidemustcontinuetosuffer。Ifhedoesnotenjoyit,somuchtheworseforhim。Wedo。

  InthisplaceImayaswelljotdownachapterconcerningthosenecessarynuisances,Europeanguides。Manyamanhaswishedinhishearthecoulddowithouthisguide;butknowinghecouldnot,haswishedhecouldgetsomeamusementoutofhimasaremunerationfortheafflictionofhissociety。

  Weaccomplishedthislattermatter,andifourexperiencecanbemadeusefultootherstheyarewelcometoit。

  GuidesknowaboutenoughEnglishtotangleeverythingupsothatamancanmakeneitherheadortailofit。Theyknowtheirstorybyheart——thehistoryofeverystatue,painting,cathedralorotherwondertheyshowyou。Theyknowitandtellitasaparrotwould——andifyouinterrupt,andthrowthemoffthetrack,theyhavetogobackandbeginoveragain。

  Alltheirliveslong,theyareemployedinshowingstrangethingstoforeignersandlisteningtotheirburstsofadmiration。Itishumannaturetotakedelightinexcitingadmiration。Itiswhatpromptschildrentosay\"smart\"

  things,anddoabsurdones,andinotherways\"showoff\"whencompanyispresent。Itiswhatmakesgossipsturnoutinrainandstormtogoandbethefirsttotellastartlingbitofnews。Think,then,whatapassionitbecomeswithaguide,whoseprivilegeitis,everyday,toshowtostrangerswondersthatthrowthemintoperfectecstasiesofadmiration!Hegetssothathecouldnotbyanypossibilityliveinasobereratmosphere。Afterwediscoveredthis,weneverwentintoecstaciesanymore——weneveradmiredanything——wenevershowedanybutimpassiblefacesandstupidindifferenceinthepresenceofthesublimestwondersaguidehadtodisplay。Wehadfoundtheirweakpoint。Wehavemadegooduseofiteversince。Wehavemadesomeofthosepeoplesavage,attimes,butwehaveneverlostourownserenity。

  Thedoctorasksthequestions,generally,becausehecankeephiscountenance,andlookmorelikeaninspiredidiot,andthrowmoreimbecilityintothetoneofhisvoicethananymanthatlives。Itcomesnaturaltohim。

  TheguidesinGenoaaredelightedtosecureanAmericanparty,becauseAmericanssomuchwonder,anddealsomuchinsentimentandemotionbeforeanyrelicofColumbus。Ourguidetherefidgetedaboutasifhehadswallowedaspringmattress。Hewasfullofanimation——fullofimpatience。Hesaid:

  \"Comewisme,genteelmen!——come!IshowyouzeletterwritingbyChristopherColombo!——writeithimself!——writeitwishisownhand!——come!\"

  Hetookustothemunicipalpalace。Aftermuchimpressivefumblingofkeysandopeningoflocks,thestainedandageddocumentwasspreadbeforeus。Theguide\'seyessparkled。Hedancedaboutusandtappedtheparchmentwithhisfinger:

  \"WhatItellyou,genteelmen!Isitnotso?See!handwritingChristopherColombo!——writeithimself!\"

  Welookedindifferent——unconcerned。Thedoctorexaminedthedocumentverydeliberately,duringapainfulpause。——Thenhesaid,withoutanyshowofinterest:

  \"Ah——Ferguson——what——whatdidyousaywasthenameofthepartywhowrotethis?\"

  \"ChristopherColombo!zegreatChristopherColombo!\"

  Anotherdeliberateexamination。

  \"Ah——didhewriteithimself;or——orhow?\"

  \"Hewriteithimself!——ChristopherColombo!He\'sownhand—writing,writebyhimself!\"

  Thenthedoctorlaidthedocumentdownandsaid:

  \"Why,IhaveseenboysinAmericaonlyfourteenyearsoldthatcouldwritebetterthanthat。\"

  \"ButzisiszegreatChristo——\"

  \"Idon\'tcarewhoitis!It\'stheworstwritingIeversaw。Nowyoumusn\'tthinkyoucanimposeonusbecausewearestrangers。Wearenotfools,byagooddeal。Ifyouhavegotanyspecimensofpenmanshipofrealmerit,trotthemout!——andifyouhaven\'t,driveon!\"

  Wedroveon。Theguidewasconsiderablyshakenup,buthemadeonemoreventure。Hehadsomethingwhichhethoughtwouldovercomeus。Hesaid:

  \"Ah,genteelmen,youcomewisme!Ishowyoubeautiful,O,magnificentbustChristopherColombo!——splendid,grand,magnificent!\"

  Hebroughtusbeforethebeautifulbust——foritwasbeautiful——andsprangbackandstruckanattitude:

  \"Ah,look,genteelmen!——beautiful,grand,——bustChristopherColombo!

  ——beautifulbust,beautifulpedestal!\"

  Thedoctorputuphiseye—glass——procuredforsuchoccasions:

  \"Ah——whatdidyousaythisgentleman\'snamewas?\"

  \"ChristopherColombo!——zegreatChristopherColombo!\"

  \"ChristopherColombo——thegreatChristopherColombo。Well,whatdidhedo?\"

  \"DiscoverAmerica!——discoverAmerica,Oh,zedevil!\"

  \"DiscoverAmerica。No——thatstatementwillhardlywash。WearejustfromAmericaourselves。Weheardnothingaboutit。ChristopherColombo——pleasantname——is——ishedead?\"

  \"Oh,corpodiBaccho!——threehundredyear!\"

  \"Whatdidhedieof?\"

  \"Idonotknow!——Icannottell。\"

  \"Small—pox,think?\"

  \"Idonotknow,genteelmen!——Idonotknowwhathedieof!\"

  \"Measles,likely?\"

  \"Maybe——maybe——Idonotknow——Ithinkhedieofsomethings。\"

  \"Parentsliving?\"

  \"Im—poseeeble!\"

  \"Ah——whichisthebustandwhichisthepedestal?\"

  \"SantaMaria!——ziszebust!——ziszepedestal!\"

  \"Ah,Isee,Isee——happycombination——veryhappycombination,indeed。

  Is——isthisthefirsttimethisgentlemanwaseveronabust?\"

  Thatjokewaslostontheforeigner——guidescannotmasterthesubtletiesoftheAmericanjoke。

  WehavemadeitinterestingforthisRomanguide。YesterdaywespentthreeorfourhoursintheVatican,again,thatwonderfulworldofcuriosities。

  Wecameverynearexpressinginterest,sometimes——evenadmiration——

  itwasveryhardtokeepfromit。Wesucceededthough。Nobodyelseeverdid,intheVaticanmuseums。Theguidewasbewildered——non—plussed。Hewalkedhislegsoff,nearly,huntingupextraordinarythings,andexhaustedallhisingenuityonus,butitwasafailure;wenevershowedanyinterestinanything。Hehadreservedwhatheconsideredtobehisgreatestwondertillthelast——aroyalEgyptianmummy,thebestpreservedintheworld,perhaps。Hetookusthere。Hefeltsosure,thistime,thatsomeofhisoldenthusiasmcamebacktohim:

  \"See,genteelmen!——Mummy!Mummy!\"

  Theeye—glasscameupascalmly,asdeliberatelyasever。

  \"Ah,——Ferguson——whatdidIunderstandyoutosaythegentleman\'snamewas?\"

  \"Name?——hegotnoname!——Mummy!——\'Gyptianmummy!\"

  \"Yes,yes。Bornhere?\"

  \"No!\'Gyptianmummy!\"

  \"Ah,justso。Frenchman,Ipresume?\"

  \"No!——notFrenchman,notRoman!——borninEgypta!\"

  \"BorninEgypta。NeverheardofEgyptabefore。Foreignlocality,likely。

  Mummy——mummy。Howcalmheis——howself—possessed。Is,ah——ishedead?\"

  \"Oh,sacrebleu,beendeadthreethousan\'year!\"

  Thedoctorturnedonhimsavagely:

  \"Here,now,whatdoyoumeanbysuchconductasthis!PlayingusforChinamenbecausewearestrangersandtryingtolearn!Tryingtoimposeyourvilesecond—handcarcassesonus!——thunderandlightning,I\'veanotionto——to——ifyou\'vegotanicefreshcorpse,fetchhimout!——orbyGeorgewe\'llbrainyou!\"

  WemakeitexceedinglyinterestingforthisFrenchman。However,hehaspaidusback,partly,withoutknowingit。Hecametothehotelthismorningtoaskifwewereup,andheendeavoredaswellashecouldtodescribeus,sothatthelandlordwouldknowwhichpersonshemeant。Hefinishedwiththecasualremarkthatwewerelunatics。Theobservationwassoinnocentandsohonestthatitamountedtoaverygoodthingforaguidetosay。

  Thereisoneremark(alreadymentioned,)whichneveryethasfailedtodisgusttheseguides。Weuseitalways,whenwecanthinkofnothingelsetosay。Aftertheyhaveexhaustedtheirenthusiasmpointingouttousandpraisingthebeautiesofsomeancientbronzeimageorbroken—leggedstatue,welookatitstupidlyandinsilenceforfive,ten,fifteenminutes——aslongaswecanholdout,infact——andthenask:

  \"Is——ishedead?\"

  Thatconquerstheserenestofthem。Itisnotwhattheyarelookingfor——especiallyanewguide。OurRomanFergusonisthemostpatient,unsuspecting,long—sufferingsubjectwehavehadyet。Weshallbesorrytopartwithhim。Wehaveenjoyedhissocietyverymuch。Wetrusthehasenjoyedours,butweareharassedwithdoubts。

  Wehavebeeninthecatacombs。Itwaslikegoingdownintoaverydeepcellar,onlyitwasacellarwhichhadnoendtoit。Thenarrowpassagesareroughlyhewnintherock,andoneachhandasyoupassalong,thehollowedshelvesarecarvedout,fromthreetofourteendeep;eachheldacorpseonce。Therearenames,andChristiansymbols,andprayers,orsentencesexpressiveofChristianhopes,carveduponnearlyeverysarcophagus。ThedatesbelongawaybackinthedawnoftheChristianera,ofcourse。Here,intheseholesintheground,thefirstChristianssometimesburrowedtoescapepersecution。Theycrawledoutatnighttogetfood,butremainedundercoverinthedaytime。ThepriesttoldusthatSt。Sebastianlivedundergroundforsometimewhilehewasbeinghunted;hewentoutoneday,andthesoldierydiscoveredandshothimtodeathwitharrows。FiveorsixoftheearlyPopes——thosewhoreignedaboutsixteenhundredyearsago——heldtheirpapalcourtsandadvisedwiththeirclergyinthebowelsoftheearth。Duringseventeenyears——fromA。D。235toA。D。252——

  thePopesdidnotappearaboveground。Fourwereraisedtothegreatofficeduringthatperiod。Fouryearsapiece,orthereabouts。Itisverysuggestiveoftheunhealthinessofundergroundgraveyardsasplacesofresidence。

  OnePopeafterwardspenthisentirepontificateinthecatacombs——eightyears。Anotherwasdiscoveredinthemandmurderedintheepiscopalchair。

  TherewasnosatisfactioninbeingaPopeinthosedays。Thereweretoomanyannoyances。ThereareonehundredandsixtycatacombsunderRome,eachwithitsmazeofnarrowpassagescrossingandrecrossingeachotherandeachpassagewalledtothetopwithscoopedgravesitsentirelength。

  Acarefulestimatemakesthelengthofthepassagesofallthecatacombscombinedfootupninehundredmiles,andtheirgravesnumbersevenmillions。

  Wedidnotgothroughallthepassagesofallthecatacombs。Wewereveryanxioustodoit,andmadethenecessaryarrangements,butourtoolimitedtimeobligedustogiveuptheidea。SoweonlygropedthroughthedismallabyrinthofSt。Callixtus,undertheChurchofSt。Sebastian。Inthevariouscatacombsaresmallchapelsrudelyhewninthestones,andheretheearlyChristiansoftenheldtheirreligiousservicesbydim,ghostlylights。

  Thinkofmassandasermonawaydowninthosetangledcavernsunderground!

  InthecatacombswereburiedSt。Cecilia,St。Agnes,andseveralotherofthemostcelebratedofthesaints。InthecatacombofSt。Callixtus,St。Bridgetusedtoremainlonghoursinholycontemplation,andSt。CharlesBorromeowaswonttospendwholenightsinprayerthere。Itwasalsothesceneofaverymarvelousthing。\"HeretheheartofSt。PhilipNeriwassoinflamedwithdivineloveastobursthisribs。\"IfindthatgravestatementinabookpublishedinNewYorkin1808,andwrittenby\"Rev。WilliamH。Neligan,LL。D。,M。A。,TrinityCollege,Dublin;

  MemberoftheArchaeologicalSocietyofGreatBritain。\"Therefore,Ibelieveit。Otherwise,Icouldnot。UnderothercircumstancesIshouldhavefeltacuriositytoknowwhatPhiliphadfordinner。

  Thisauthorputsmycredulityonitsmettleeverynowandthen。HetellsofoneSt。JosephCalasanctiuswhosehouseinRomehevisited;hevisitedonlythehouse——thepriesthasbeendeadtwohundredyears。HesaystheVirginMaryappearedtothissaint。Thenhecontinues:\"Histongueandhisheart,whichwerefoundafternearlyacenturytobewhole,whenthebodywasdisinterredbeforehiscanonization,arestillpreservedinaglasscase,andaftertwocenturiestheheartisstillwhole。WhentheFrenchtroopscametoRome,andwhenPiusVII。

  wascarriedawayprisoner,blooddroppedfromit。\"ToreadthatinabookwrittenbyamonkfarbackintheMiddleAges,wouldsurprisenoone;itwouldsoundnaturalandproper;butwhenitisseriouslystatedinthemiddleofthenineteenthcentury,byamanoffinishededucation,anLL。D。,M。A。,andanArchaeologicalmagnate,itsoundsstrangelyenough。

  Still,IwouldgladlychangemyunbeliefforNeligan\'sfaith,andlethimmaketheconditionsashardashepleased。

  Theoldgentleman\'sundoubting,unquestioningsimplicityhasararefreshnessaboutitinthesematter—of—factrailroadingandtelegraphingdays。Hearhim,concerningthechurchofAraCoeli:\"Intheroofofthechurch,directlyabovethehighaltar,isengraved,\'ReginaCoelilaetareAlleluia。\"InthesixthcenturyRomewasvisitedbyafearfulpestilence。GregorytheGreaturgedthepeopletodopenance,andageneralprocessionwasformed。ItwastoproceedfromAraCoelitoSt。Peter\'s。AsitpassedbeforethemoleofAdrian,nowtheCastleofSt。Angelo,thesoundofheavenlyvoiceswasheardsinging(itwasEastermorn,)ReginaCoeli,laetare!alleluia!quiaquemmeruistiportare,alleluia!resurrexitsicutdixit;alleluia!\"ThePontiff,carryinginhishandstheportraitoftheVirgin,(whichisoverthehighaltarandissaidtohavebeenpaintedbySt。Luke,)answered,withtheastonishedpeople,\'OrapronobisDeum,alleluia!\'Atthesametimeanangelwasseentoputupaswordinascabbard,andthepestilenceceasedonthesameday。Therearefourcircumstanceswhichconfirm*thismiracle:theannualprocessionwhichtakesplaceinthewesternchurchonthefeastofStMark;thestatueofSt。Michael,placedonthemoleofAdrian,whichhassincethattimebeencalledtheCastleofSt。Angelo;

  theantiphonReginaCoeliwhichtheCatholicchurchsingsduringpaschaltime;andtheinscriptioninthechurch。\"*Theitalicsaremine——M。T。

  Chapter28

  FromthesanguinarysportsoftheHolyInquisition;theslaughteroftheColiseum;andthedismaltombsoftheCatacombs,InaturallypasstothepicturesquehorrorsoftheCapuchinConvent。WestoppedamomentinasmallchapelinthechurchtoadmireapictureofSt。MichaelvanquishingSatan——apicturewhichissobeautifulthatIcannotbutthinkitbelongstothereviled\"Renaissance,\"notwithstandingIbelievetheytoldusoneoftheancientoldmasterspaintedit——andthenwedescendedintothevastvaultunderneath。

  Herewasaspectacleforsensitivenerves!Evidentlytheoldmastershadbeenatworkinthisplace。Thereweresixdivisionsintheapartment,andeachdivisionwasornamentedwithastyleofdecorationpeculiartoitself——andthesedecorationswereineveryinstanceformedofhumanbones!

  Therewereshapelyarches,builtwhollyofthighbones;therewerestartlingpyramids,builtwhollyofgrinningskulls;therewerequaintarchitecturalstructuresofvariouskinds,builtofshinbonesandthebonesofthearm;

  onthewallwereelaboratefrescoes,whosecurvingvinesweremadeofknottedhumanvertebræ;whosedelicatetendrilsweremadeofsinewsandtendons;

  whoseflowerswereformedofknee—capsandtoe—nails。Everylastingportionofthehumanframewasrepresentedintheseintricatedesigns(theywerebyMichaelAngelo,Ithink,)andtherewasacarefulfinishaboutthework,andanattentiontodetailsthatbetrayedtheartist\'sloveofhislaborsaswellashisschooledability。Iaskedthegood—naturedmonkwhoaccompaniedus,whodidthis?Andhesaid,\"Wedidit\"——meaninghimselfandhisbrethrenupstairs。Icouldseethattheoldfriartookahighprideinhiscuriousshow。Wemadehimtalkativebyexhibitinganinterestweneverbetrayedtoguides。

  \"Whowerethesepeople?\"

  \"We——upstairs——MonksoftheCapuchinorder——mybrethren。\"

  \"Howmanydepartedmonkswererequiredtoupholsterthesesixparlors?\"

  \"Thesearethebonesoffourthousand。\"

  \"Ittookalongtimetogetenough?\"

  \"Many,manycenturies。\"

  \"Theirdifferentpartsarewellseparated——skullsinoneroom,legsinanother,ribsinanother——therewouldbestirringtimeshereforawhileifthelasttrumpshouldblow。Someofthebrethrenmightgetholdofthewrongleg,intheconfusion,andthewrongskull,andfindthemselveslimping,andlookingthrougheyesthatwerewiderapartorclosertogetherthantheywereusedto。Youcannottellanyofthesepartiesapart,Isuppose?\"

  \"Oh,yes,Iknowmanyofthem。\"

  Heputhisfingeronaskull。\"ThiswasBrotherAnselmo——deadthreehundredyears——agoodman。\"

  Hetouchedanother。\"ThiswasBrotherAlexander——deadtwohundredandeightyyears。ThiswasBrotherCarlo——deadaboutaslong。\"

  Thenhetookaskullandhelditinhishand,andlookedreflectivelyuponit,afterthemannerofthegrave—diggerwhenhediscoursesofYorick。

  \"This,\"hesaid,\"wasBrotherThomas。Hewasayoungprince,thescionofaproudhousethattraceditslineagebacktothegrandolddaysofRomewellnightwothousandyearsago。Helovedbeneathhisestate。Hisfamilypersecutedhim;persecutedthegirl,aswell。TheydroveherfromRome;hefollowed;hesoughtherfarandwide;hefoundnotraceofher。

  HecamebackandofferedhisbrokenheartatouraltarandhiswearylifetotheserviceofGod。Butlookyou。Shortlyhisfatherdied,andlikewisehismother。Thegirlreturned,rejoicing。Shesoughteverywhereforhimwhoseeyeshadusedtolooktenderlyintohersoutofthispoorskull,butshecouldnotfindhim。Atlast,inthiscoarsegarbwewear,sherecognizedhiminthestreet。Heknewher。Itwastoolate。Hefellwherehestood。

  Theytookhimupandbroughthimhere。Heneverspokeafterward。Withintheweekhedied。Youcanseethecolorofhishair——faded,somewhat——

  bythisthinshredthatclingsstilltothetemple。\"This,\"[takingupathighbone,]\"washis。Theveinsofthisleafinthedecorationsoveryourhead,werehisfinger—joints,ahundredandfiftyyearsago。\"

  Thisbusiness—likewayofillustratingatouchingstoryoftheheartbylayingtheseveralfragmentsoftheloverbeforeusandnamingthem,wasasgrotesqueaperformance,andasghastly,asanyIeverwitnessed。

  Ihardlyknewwhethertosmileorshudder。Therearenervesandmusclesinourframeswhosefunctionsandwhosemethodsofworkingitseemsasortofsacrilegetodescribebycoldphysiologicalnamesandsurgicaltechnicalities,andthemonk\'stalksuggestedtomesomethingofthiskind。Fancyasurgeon,withhisnippersliftingtendons,musclesandsuchthingsintoview,outofthecomplexmachineryofacorpse,andobserving,\"Nowthislittlenervequivers——thevibrationisimpartedtothismuscle——fromhereitispassedtothisfibroussubstance;hereitsingredientsareseparatedbythechemicalactionoftheblood——onepartgoestotheheartandthrillsitwithwhatispopularlytermedemotion,anotherpartfollowsthisnervetothebrainandcommunicatesintelligenceofastartlingcharacter——thethirdpartglidesalongthispassageandtouchesthespringconnectedwiththefluidreceptaclesthatlieintherearoftheeye。Thus,bythissimpleandbeautifulprocess,thepartyisinformedthathismotherisdead,andheweeps。\"

  Horrible!

  Iaskedthemonkifallthebrethrenupstairsexpectedtobeputinthisplacewhentheydied。Heansweredquietly:

  \"Wemustallliehereatlast。\"

  Seewhatonecanaccustomhimselfto。——Thereflectionthathemustsomedaybetakenapartlikeanengineoraclock,orlikeahousewhoseownerisgone,andworkedupintoarchesandpyramidsandhideousfrescoes,didnotdistressthismonkintheleast。Ithoughtheevenlookedasifhewerethinking,withcomplacentvanity,thathisownskullwouldlookwellontopoftheheapandhisownribsaddacharmtothefrescoeswhichpossiblytheylackedatpresent。

点击下载App,搜索"The Innocents Abroad",免费读到尾