PREFACEThisbookisarecordofapleasuretrip。Ifitwerearecordofasolemnscientificexpedition，itwouldhaveaboutitthatgravity，thatprofundity，andthatimpressiveincomprehensibilitywhicharesopropertoworksofthatkind，andwithalsoattractive。Yetnotwithstandingitisonlyarecordofapicnic，ithasapurpose，whichistosuggesttothereaderhowhewouldbelikelytoseeEuropeandtheEastifhelookedatthemwithhisowneyesinsteadoftheeyesofthosewhotraveledinthosecountriesbeforehim。Imakesmallpretenseofshowinganyonehowheoughttolookatobjectsofinterestbeyondthesea——otherbooksdothat，andtherefore，evenifIwerecompetenttodoit，thereisnoneed。
Ioffernoapologiesforanydeparturesfromtheusualstyleoftravelwritingthatmaybechargedagainstme——forIthinkIhaveseenwithimpartialeyes，andIamsureIhavewrittenatleasthonestly，whetherwiselyornot。
InthisvolumeIhaveusedportionsofletterswhichIwrotefortheDailyAltaCalifornia，ofSanFrancisco，theproprietorsofthatjournalhavingwaivedtheirrightsandgivenmethenecessarypermission。
IhavealsoinsertedportionsofseveralletterswrittenfortheNewYorkTribuneandtheNewYorkHerald。
THEAUTHOR
SANFRANCISCO，1869
Chapter1
FormonthsthegreatpleasureexcursiontoEuropeandtheHolyLandwaschattedaboutinthenewspaperseverywhereinAmericaanddiscussedatcountlessfiresides。Itwasanoveltyinthewayofexcursions——itslikehadnotbeenthoughtofbefore——anditcompelledthatinterestwhichattractivenoveltiesalwayscommand。Itwastobeapicniconagiganticscale。Theparticipantsinit，insteadoffreightinganungainlysteamferryboatwithyouthandbeautyandpiesanddoughnuts，andpaddlingupsomeobscurecreektodisembarkuponagrassylawnandwearthemselvesoutwithalongsummerday\'slaboriousfrolickingundertheimpressionthatitwasfun，weretosailawayinagreatsteamshipwithflagsflyingandcannonpealing，andtakearoyalholidaybeyondthebroadoceaninmanyastrangeclimeandinmanyalandrenownedinhistory！TheyweretosailformonthsoverthebreezyAtlanticandthesunnyMediterranean;
theyweretoscamperaboutthedecksbyday，fillingtheshipwithshoutsandlaughter，orreadnovelsandpoetryintheshadeofthesmokestacks，orwatchforthejellyfishandthenautilusovertheside，andtheshark，thewhale，andotherstrangemonstersofthedeep;andatnighttheyweretodanceintheopenair，ontheupperdeck，inthemidstofaballroomthatstretchedfromhorizontohorizon，andwasdomedbythebendingheavensandlightedbynomeanerlampsthanthestarsandthemagnificentmoon—dance，andpromenade，andsmoke，andsing，andmakelove，andsearchtheskiesforconstellationsthatneverassociatewiththe\"BigDipper\"theyweresotiredof;andtheyweretoseetheshipsoftwentynavies——thecustomsandcostumesoftwentycuriouspeoples——thegreatcitiesofhalfaworld——theyweretohobnobwithnobilityandholdfriendlyconversewithkingsandprinces，grandmoguls，andtheanointedlordsofmightyempires！Itwasabraveconception;itwastheoffspringofamostingeniousbrain。Itwaswelladvertised，butithardlyneededit:theboldoriginality，theextraordinarycharacter，theseductivenature，andthevastnessoftheenterpriseprovokedcommenteverywhereandadvertiseditineveryhouseholdintheland。Whocouldreadtheprogramoftheexcursionwithoutlongingtomakeoneoftheparty？Iwillinsertithere。Itisalmostasgoodasamap。Asatextforthisbook，nothingcouldbebetter:BROOKLYN，February1st，1867Theundersignedwillmakeanexcursionasaboveduringthecomingseason，andbegstosubmittoyouthefollowingprogram:Afirst—classsteamer，tobeunderhisowncommand，andcapableofaccommodatingatleastonehundredandfiftycabinpassengers，willbeselected，inwhichwillbetakenaselectcompany，numberingnotmorethanthree—fourthsoftheship\'scapacity。Thereisgoodreasontobelievethatthiscompanycanbeeasilymadeupinthisimmediatevicinity，ofmutualfriendsandacquaintances。Thesteamerwillbeprovidedwitheverynecessarycomfort，includinglibraryandmusicalinstruments。Anexperiencedphysicianwillbeonboard。LeavingNewYorkaboutJune1st，amiddleandpleasantroutewillbetakenacrosstheAtlantic，andpassingthroughthegroupofAzores，St。Michaelwillbereachedinabouttendays。Adayortwowillbespenthere，enjoyingthefruitandwildsceneryoftheseislands，andthevoyagecontinued，andGibraltarreachedinthreeorfourdays。Adayortwowillbespenthereinlookingoverthewonderfulsubterraneousfortifications，permissiontovisitthesegalleriesbeingreadilyobtained。FromGibraltar，runningalongthecoastsofSpainandFrance，Marseilleswillbereachedinthreedays。Hereampletimewillbegivennotonlytolookoverthecity，whichwasfoundedsixhundredyearsbeforetheChristianera，anditsartificialport，thefinestofthekindintheMediterranean，buttovisitParisduringtheGreatExhibition;andthebeautifulcityofLyons，lyingintermediate，fromtheheightsofwhich，onaclearday，MontBlancandtheAlpscanbedistinctlyseen。PassengerswhomaywishtoextendthetimeatPariscandoso，and，passingdownthroughSwitzerland，rejointhesteameratGenoa。FromMarseillestoGenoaisarunofonenight。Theexcursionistswillhaveanopportunitytolookoverthis，themagnificentcityofpalaces，\"
andvisitthebirthplaceofColumbus，twelvemilesoff，overabeautifulroadbuiltbyNapoleonI。Fromthispoint，excursionsmaybemadetoMilan，LakesComoandMaggiore，ortoMilan，Verona（famousforitsextraordinaryfortifications），Padua，andVenice。Or，ifpassengersdesiretovisitParma（famousforCorreggio\'sfrescoes）andBologna，theycanbyrailgoontoFlorence，andrejointhesteameratLeghorn，thusspendingaboutthreeweeksamidthecitiesmostfamousforartinItaly。FromGenoatheruntoLeghornwillbemadealongthecoastinonenight，andtimeappropriatedtothispointinwhichtovisitFlorence，itspalacesandgalleries;Pisa，itscathedraland\"LeaningTower，\"andLuccaanditsbaths，andRomanamphitheater;Florence，themostremote，beingdistantbyrailaboutsixtymiles。FromLeghorntoNaples（callingatCivitaVecchiatolandanywhomayprefertogotoRomefromthatpoint），thedistancewillbemadeinaboutthirty—sixhours;theroutewilllayalongthecoastofItaly，closebyCaprera，Elba，andCorsica。ArrangementshavebeenmadetotakeonboardatLeghornapilotforCaprera，and，ifpracticable，acallwillbemadetheretovisitthehomeofGaribaldi。Rome[byrail]，Herculaneum，Pompeii，Vesuvius，Vergil\'stomb，andpossiblytheruinsofPaestumcanbevisited，aswellasthebeautifulsurroundingsofNaplesanditscharmingbay。ThenextpointofinterestwillbePalermo，themostbeautifulcityofSicily，whichwillbereachedinonenightfromNaples。Adaywillbespenthere，andleavingintheevening，thecoursewillbetakentowardsAthens。SkirtingalongthenorthcoastofSicily，passingthroughthegroupofAeolianIsles，insightofStromboliandVulcania，bothactivevolcanoes，throughtheStraitsofMessina，with\"Scylla\"ontheonehandand\"Charybdis\"ontheother，alongtheeastcoastofSicily，andinsightofMountEtna，alongthesouthcoastofItaly，thewestandsouthcoastofGreece，insightofancientCrete，upAthensGulf，andintothePiraeus，Athenswillbereachedintwoandahalforthreedays。Aftertarryinghereawhile，theBayofSalamiswillbecrossed，andadaygiventoCorinth，whencethevoyagewillbecontinuedtoConstantinople，passingonthewaythroughtheGrecianArchipelago，theDardanelles，theSeaofMarmora，andthemouthoftheGoldenHorn，andarrivinginaboutforty—eighthoursfromAthens。AfterleavingConstantinople，thewaywillbetakenoutthroughthebeautifulBosphorus，acrosstheBlackSeatoSebastopolandBalaklava，arunofabouttwenty—fourhours。Hereitisproposedtoremaintwodays，visitingtheharbors，fortifications，andbattlefieldsoftheCrimea;thencebackthroughtheBosphorus，touchingatConstantinopletotakeinanywhomayhavepreferredtoremainthere;downthroughtheSeaofMarmoraandtheDardanelles，alongthecoastsofancientTroyandLydiainAsia，toSmyrna，whichwillbereachedintwoortwoandahalfdaysfromConstantinople。
AsufficientstaywillbemadeheretogiveopportunityofvisitingEphesus，fiftymilesdistantbyrail。FromSmyrnatowardstheHolyLandthecoursewilllaythroughtheGrecianArchipelago，closebytheIsleofPatmos，alongthecoastofAsia，ancientPamphylia，andtheIsleofCyprus。Beirutwillbereachedinthreedays。AtBeiruttimewillbegiventovisitDamascus;afterwhichthesteamerwillproceedtoJoppa。FromJoppa，Jerusalem，theRiverJordan，theSeaofTiberias，Nazareth，Bethany，Bethlehem，andotherpointsofinterestintheHolyLandcanbevisited，andherethosewhomayhavepreferredtomakethejourneyfromBeirutthroughthecountry，passingthroughDamascus，Galilee，Capernaum，Samaria，andbytheRiverJordanandSeaofTiberias，canrejointhesteamer。LeavingJoppa，thenextpointofinteresttovisitwillbeAlexandria，whichwillbereachedintwenty—fourhours。TheruinsofCaesar\'sPalace，Pompey\'sPillar，Cleopatra\'sNeedle，theCatacombs，andruinsofancientAlexandriawillbefoundworththevisit。ThejourneytoCairo，onehundredandthirtymilesbyrail，canbemadeinafewhours，andfromwhichcanbevisitedthesiteofancientMemphis，Joseph\'sGranaries，andthePyramids。FromAlexandriatheroutewillbetakenhomeward，callingatMalta，Cagliari（inSardinia），andPalma（inMajorca），allmagnificentharbors，withcharmingscenery，andaboundinginfruits。Adayortwowillbespentateachplace，andleavingParmaintheevening，ValenciainSpainwillbereachedthenextmorning。Afewdayswillbespentinthis，thefinestcityofSpain。FromValencia，thehomewardcoursewillbecontinued，skirtingalongthecoastofSpain。Alicant，Carthagena，Palos，andMalagawillbepassedbutamileortwodistant，andGibraltarreachedinabouttwenty—fourhours。Astayofonedaywillbemadehere，andthevoyagecontinuedtoMadeira，whichwillbereachedinaboutthreedays。CaptainMarryattwrites:\"IdonotknowaspotontheglobewhichsomuchastonishesanddelightsuponfirstarrivalasMadeira。\"Astayofoneortwodayswillbemadehere，which，iftimepermits，maybeextended，andpassingonthroughtheislands，andprobablyinsightofthePeakofTeneriffe，asoutherntrackwillbetaken，andtheAtlanticcrossedwithinthelatitudesofthenortheasttradewinds，wheremildandpleasantweather，andasmoothsea，canalwaysbeexpected。AcallwillbemadeatBermuda，whichliesdirectlyinthisroutehomeward，andwillbereachedinabouttendaysfromMadeira，andafterspendingashorttimewithourfriendstheBermudians，thefinaldeparturewillbemadeforhome，whichwillbereachedinaboutthreedays。Already，applicationshavebeenreceivedfrompartiesinEuropewishingtojointheExcursionthere。Theshipwillatalltimesbeahome，wheretheexcursionists，ifsick，willbesurroundedbykindfriends，andhaveallpossiblecomfortandsympathy。Shouldcontagioussicknessexistinanyoftheportsnamedintheprogram，suchportswillbepassed，andothersofinterestsubstituted。Thepriceofpassageisfixedat$1，250，currency，foreachadultpassenger。Choiceofroomsandofseatsatthetablesapportionedintheorderinwhichpassagesareengaged;andnopassageconsideredengageduntiltenpercentofthepassagemoneyisdepositedwiththetreasurer。Passengerscanremainonboardofthesteamer，atallports，iftheydesire，withoutadditionalexpense，andallboatingattheexpenseoftheship。Allpassagesmustbepaidforwhentaken，inorderthatthemostperfectarrangementsbemadeforstartingattheappointedtime。Applicationsforpassagemustbeapprovedbythecommitteebeforeticketsareissued，andcanbemadetotheundersigned。Articlesofinterestorcuriosity，procuredbythepassengersduringthevoyage，maybebroughthomeinthesteamerfreeofcharge。Fivedollarsperday，ingold，itisbelieved，willbeafaircalculationtomakeforalltravelingexpensesonshoreandatthevariouspointswherepassengersmaywishtoleavethesteamerfordaysatatime。Thetripcanbeextended，andtheroutechanged，byunanimousvoteofthepassengers。CHAS。C。DUNCAN，117WALLSTREET，NEWYORK
R。R。G******，TreasurerCommitteeonApplicationsJ。T。H*****，ESQ。R。R。G*****，ESQ。C。C。DuncanCommitteeonSelectingSteamerCAPT。W。W。S****，SurveyorforBoardofUnderwritersC。W。C******，ConsultingEngineerforU。S。andCanadaJ。T。H*****，Esq。
C。C。DUNCANP。S。——Theverybeautifulandsubstantialside—wheelsteamshipQuakerCityhasbeencharteredfortheoccasion，andwillleaveNewYorkJune8th。Lettershavebeenissuedbythegovernmentcommendingthepartytocourtesiesabroad。Whatwastherelackingaboutthatprogramtomakeitperfectlyirresistible？
Nothingthatanyfinitemindcoulddiscover。Paris，England，Scotland，Switzerland，Italy——Garibaldi！TheGrecianArchipelago！Vesuvius！Constantinople！
Smyrna！TheHolyLand！Egyptand\"ourfriendstheBermudians\"！PeopleinEuropedesiringtojointheexcursion——contagioussicknesstobeavoided——boatingattheexpenseoftheship——physicianonboard——thecircuitoftheglobetobemadeifthepassengersunanimouslydesiredit——thecompanytoberigidlyselectedbyapitiless\"CommitteeonApplications\"——thevesseltobeasrigidlyselectedbyaspitilessa\"CommitteeonSelectingSteamer。\"
Humannaturecouldnotwithstandthesebewilderingtemptations。Ihurriedtothetreasurer\'sofficeanddepositedmytenpercent。Irejoicedtoknowthatafewvacantstateroomswerestillleft。Ididavoidacriticalpersonalexaminationintomycharacterbythatbowellesscommittee，butIreferredtoallthepeopleofhighstandingIcouldthinkofinthecommunitywhowouldbeleastlikelytoknowanythingaboutme。
ShortlyasupplementaryprogramwasissuedwhichsetforththatthePlymouthCollectionofHymnswouldbeusedonboardtheship。I
thenpaidthebalanceofmypassagemoney。
Iwasprovidedwithareceiptanddulyandofficiallyacceptedasanexcursionist。Therewashappinessinthatbutitwastamecomparedtothenoveltyofbeing\"select。\"
Thissupplementaryprogramalsoinstructedtheexcursioniststoprovidethemselveswithlightmusicalinstrumentsforamusementintheship，withsaddlesforSyriantravel，greenspectaclesandumbrellas，veilsforEgypt，andsubstantialclothingtouseinroughpilgrimizingintheHolyLand。
Furthermore，itwassuggestedthatalthoughtheship\'slibrarywouldaffordafairamountofreadingmatter，itwouldstillbewellifeachpassengerwouldprovidehimselfwithafewguidebooks，aBible，andsomestandardworksoftravel。Alistwasappended，whichconsistedchieflyofbooksrelatingtotheHolyLand，sincetheHolyLandwaspartoftheexcursionandseemedtobeitsmainfeature。
ReverendHenryWardBeecherwastohaveaccompaniedtheexpedition，buturgentdutiesobligedhimtogiveuptheidea。Therewereotherpassengerswhocouldhavebeensparedbetterandwouldhavebeensparedmorewillingly。
LieutenantGeneralShermanwastohavebeenofthepartyalso，buttheIndianwarcompelledhispresenceontheplains。Apopularactresshadenteredhernameontheship\'sbooks，butsomethinginterferedandshecouldn\'tgo。The\"DrummerBoyofthePotomac\"deserted，andlo，wehadneveracelebrityleft！
However，weweretohavea\"batteryofguns\"fromtheNavyDepartment（asperadvertisement）tobeusedinansweringroyalsalutes;andthedocumentfamishedbytheSecretaryoftheNavy，whichwastomake\"GeneralShermanandparty\"welcomeguestsinthecourtsandcampsoftheoldworld，wasstilllefttous，thoughbothdocumentandbattery，Ithink，wereshornofsomewhatoftheiroriginalaugustproportions。However，hadnotwetheseductiveprogramstill，withitsParis，itsConstantinople，Smyrna，Jerusalem，Jericho，and\"ourfriendstheBermudians\"？Whatdidwecare？
Chapter2
Occasionally，duringthefollowingmonth，Idroppedinat117WallStreettoinquirehowtherepairingandrefumishingofthevesselwascomingon，howadditionstothepassengerlistwereaveraging，howmanypeoplethecommitteeweredecreeingnot\"select\"everydayandbanishinginsorrowandtribulation。Iwasgladtoknowthatweweretohavealittleprintingpressonboardandissueadailynewspaperofourown。Iwasgladtolearnthatourpiano，ourparlororgan，andourmelodeonweretobethebestinstrumentsofthekindthatcouldbehadinthemarket。Iwasproudtoobservethatamongourexcursionistswerethreeministersofthegospel，eightdoctors，sixteenoreighteenladies，severalmilitaryandnavalchieftainswithsoundingtitles，anamplecropof\"Professors\"ofvariouskinds，andagentlemanwhohad\"COMMISSIONEROFTHEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICATO
EUROPE，ASIA，ANDAFRICA\"thunderingafterhisnameinoneawfulblast！
Ihadcarefullypreparedmyselftotakeratherabackseatinthatshipbecauseoftheuncommonlyselectmaterialthatwouldalonebepermittedtopassthroughthecamel\'seyeofthatcommitteeoncredentials;Ihadschooledmyselftoexpectanimposingarrayofmilitaryandnavalheroesandtohavetosetthatbackseatstillfurtherbackinconsequenceofitmaybe;butIstatefranklythatIwasallunpreparedforthiscrusher。
Ifellunderthattitularavalancheatornandblightedthing。Isaidthatifthatpotentatemustgooverinourship，why，Isupposedhemust——butthattomythinking，whentheUnitedStatesconsidereditnecessarytosendadignitaryofthattonnageacrosstheocean，itwouldbeinbettertaste，andsafer，totakehimapartandcarthimoverinsectionsinseveralships。
Ah，ifIhadonlyknownthenthathewasonlyacommonmortal，andthathismissionhadnothingmoreoverpoweringaboutitthanthecollectingofseedsanduncommonyamsandextraordinarycabbagesandpeculiarbullfrogsforthatpoor，useless，innocent，mildewedoldfossiltheSmithsonianInstitute，Iwouldhavefeltsomuchrelieved。
DuringthatmemorablemonthIbaskedinthehappinessofbeingforonceinmylifedriftingwiththetideofagreatpopularmovement。EverybodywasgoingtoEurope——I，too，wasgoingtoEurope。EverybodywasgoingtothefamousParisExposition——I，too，wasgoingtotheParisExposition。
ThesteamshiplineswerecarryingAmericansoutofthevariousportsofthecountryattherateoffourorfivethousandaweekintheaggregate。
IfImetadozenindividualsduringthatmonthwhowerenotgoingtoEuropeshortly，Ihavenodistinctremembranceofitnow。IwalkedaboutthecityagooddealwithayoungMr。Blucher，whowasbookedfortheexcursion。
Hewasconfiding，good—natured，unsophisticated，companionable;buthewasnotamantosettheriveronfire。HehadthemostextraordinarynotionsaboutthisEuropeanexodusandcameatlasttoconsiderthewholenationaspackingupforemigrationtoFrance。WesteppedintoastoreonBroadwayoneday，whereheboughtahandkerchief，andwhenthemancouldnotmakechange，Mr。B。said:
\"Nevermind，I\'llhandittoyouinParis。\"
\"ButIamnotgoingtoParis。\"
\"Howis——whatdidIunderstandyoutosay？\"
\"IsaidIamnotgoingtoParis。\"
\"NotgoingtoParis！Notg——well，then，whereinthenationareyougoingto？\"
\"Nowhereatall。\"
\"Notanywherewhatsoever？Notanyplaceonearthbutthis？\"
\"Notanyplaceatallbutjustthis——stayhereallsummer。\"
Mycomradetookhispurchaseandwalkedoutofthestorewithoutaword——walkedoutwithaninjuredlookuponhiscountenance。Upthestreetapiecehebrokesilenceandsaidimpressively:\"Itwasalie——thatismyopinionofit！\"
Inthefullnessoftimetheshipwasreadytoreceiveherpassengers。
Iwasintroducedtotheyounggentlemanwhowastobemyroommate，andfoundhimtobeintelligent，cheerfulofspirit，unselfish，fullofgenerousimpulses，patient，considerate，andwonderfullygood—natured。NotanypassengerthatsailedintheQuakerCitywillwithholdhisendorsementofwhatIhavejustsaid。Weselectedastateroomforwardofthewheel，onthestarboardside，\"belowdecks。\"Itbadtwoberthsinit，adismaldeadlight，asinkwithawashbowlinit，andalong，sumptuouslycushionedlocker，whichwastodoserviceasasofa——partly——andpartlyasahidingplaceforourthings。Notwithstandingallthisfurniture，therewasstillroomtoturnaroundin，butnottoswingacatin，atleastwithentiresecuritytothecat。However，theroomwaslarge，foraship\'sstateroom，andwasineverywaysatisfactory。
ThevesselwasappointedtosailonacertainSaturdayearlyinJune。
AlittleafternoononthatdistinguishedSaturdayIreachedtheshipandwentonboard。Allwasbustleandconfusion。[Ihaveseenthatremarkbeforesomewhere。]Thepierwascrowdedwithcarriagesandmen;passengerswerearrivingandhurryingonboard;thevessel\'sdeckswereencumberedwithtrunksandvalises;groupsofexcursionists，arrayedinunattractivetravelingcostumes，weremopingaboutinadrizzlingrainandlookingasdroopyandwoebegoneassomanymoltingchickens。Thegallantflagwasup，butitwasunderthespell，too，andhunglimpanddisheartenedbythemast。Altogether，itwasthebluest，bluestspectacle！Itwasapleasureexcursion——therewasnogainsayingthat，becausetheprogramsaidso——itwassonominatedinthebond——butitsurelyhadn\'tthegeneralaspectofone。
Finally，abovethebanging，andrumbling，andshouting，andhissingofsteamrangtheorderto\"castoff！\"——asuddenrushtothegangways——ascamperingashoreofvisitors—arevolutionofthewheels，andwewereoff—thepicnicwasbegun！Twoverymildcheerswentupfromthedrippingcrowdonthepier;weansweredthemgentlyfromtheslipperydecks;theflagmadeanefforttowave，andfailed;the\"batteryofguns\"spakenot——theammunitionwasout。
Westeameddowntothefootoftheharborandcametoanchor。Itwasstillraining。Andnotonlyraining，butstorming。\"Outside\"wecouldsee，ourselves，thattherewasatremendousseaon。Wemustliestill，inthecalmharbor，tillthestormshouldabate。Ourpassengershailedfromfifteenstates;onlyafewofthemhadeverbeentoseabefore;manifestlyitwouldnotdotopitthemagainstafull—blowntempestuntiltheyhadgottheirsealegson。TowardeveningthetwosteamtugsthathadaccompanieduswitharollickingchampagnepartyofyoungNewYorkersonboardwhowishedtobidfarewelltooneofournumberindueandancientformdeparted，andwewerealoneonthedeep。Ondeepfivefathoms，andanchoredfasttothebottom。Andoutinthesolemnrainatthat。Thiswaspleasuringwithavengeance。
Itwasanappropriatereliefwhenthegongsoundedforprayermeeting。
ThefirstSaturdaynightofanyotherpleasureexcursionmighthavebeendevotedtowhistanddancing;butIsubmitittotheunprejudicedmindifitwouldhavebeeningoodtasteforustoengageinsuchfrivolities，consideringwhatwehadgonethroughandtheframeofmindwewerein。
Wewouldhaveshoneatawake，butnotatanythingmorefestive。
However，thereisalwaysacheeringinfluenceaboutthesea;andinmyberththatnight，rockedbythemeasuredswellofthewavesandlulledbythemurmurofthedistantsurf，Isoonpassedtranquillyoutofallconsciousnessofthedrearyexperiencesofthedayanddamagingpremonitionsofthefuture。
Chapter3
AlldaySundayatanchor。Thestormhadgonedownagreatdeal，buttheseahadnot。Itwasstillpilingitsfrothyhillshighinair\"outside，\"
aswecouldplainlyseewiththeglasses。WecouldnotproperlybeginapleasureexcursiononSunday;wecouldnotofferuntriedstomachstosopitilessaseaasthat。WemustliestilltillMonday。Andwedid。Butwehadrepetitionsofchurchandprayermeetings;andso，ofcourse，wewerejustaseligiblysituatedaswecouldhavebeenanywhere。
IwasupearlythatSabbathmorningandwasearlytobreakfast。Ifeltaperfectlynaturaldesiretohaveagood，long，unprejudicedlookatthepassengersatatimewhentheyshouldbefreefromself—consciousness——whichisatbreakfast，whensuchamomentoccursinthelivesofhumanbeingsatall。
Iwasgreatlysurprisedtoseesomanyelderlypeople——Imightalmostsay，somanyvenerablepeople。Aglanceatthelonglinesofheadswasapttomakeonethinkitwasallgray。Butitwasnot。Therewasatolerablyfairsprinklingofyoungfolks，andanotherfairsprinklingofgentlemenandladieswhowerenoncommittalastoage，beingneitheractuallyoldorabsolutelyyoung。
Thenextmorningweweighedanchorandwenttosea。Itwasagreathappinesstogetawayafterthisdragging，dispiritingdelay。Ithoughtthereneverwassuchgladnessintheairbefore，suchbrightnessinthesun，suchbeautyinthesea。Iwassatisfiedwiththepicnicthenandwithallitsbelongings。
AUmymaliciousinstinctsweredeadwithinme;andasAmericafadedoutofsight，Ithinkaspiritofcharityroseupintheirplacethatwasasboundless，forthetimebeing，asthebroadoceanthatwasheavingitsbillowsaboutus。Iwishedtoexpressmyfeelings——Iwishedtoliftupmyvoiceandsing;butIdidnotknowanythingtosing，andsoIwasobligedtogiveuptheidea。Itwasnolosstotheship，though，perhaps。
Itwasbreezyandpleasant，buttheseawasstillveryrough。Onecouldnotpromenadewithoutriskinghisneck;atonemomentthebowspritwastakingadeadlyaimatthesuninmidheaven，andatthenextitwastryingtoharpoonasharkinthebottomoftheocean。Whataweirdsensationitistofeelthestemofashipsinkingswiftlyfromunderyouandseethebowclimbinghighawayamongtheclouds！One\'ssafestcoursethatdaywastoclasparailingandhangon;walkingwastooprecariousapastime。
BysomehappyfortuneIwasnotseasick。Thatwasathingtobeproudof。Ihadnotalwaysescapedbefore。Ifthereisonethingintheworldthatwillmakeamanpeculiarlyandinsufferablyself—conceited，itistohavehisstomachbehaveitself，thefirstdayitsea，whennearlyallhiscomradesareseasick。Soonavenerablefossil，shawledtothechinandbandagedlikeamummy，appearedatthedooroftheafterdeckhouse，andthenextlurchoftheshipshothimintomyarms。Isaid:
\"Good—morning，Sir。Itisafineday。\"
Heputhishandonhisstomachandsaid，\"Oh，my！\"andthenstaggeredawayandfelloverthecoopofaskylight。
Presentlyanotheroldgentlemanwasprojectedfromthesamedoorwithgreatviolence。Isaid:
\"Calmyourself，sir——thereisnohurry。Itisafineday，Sir。\"
He，also，puthishandonhisstomachandsaid\"Oh，my！\"andreeledaway。
Inalittlewhileanotherveteranwasdischargedabruptlyfromthesamedoor，clawingattheairforasavingsupportIsaid:
\"Goodmorning，Sir。Itisafinedayforpleasuring。Youwereabouttosay——\"
\"Oh，my！\"
Ithoughtso。Ianticipatedhim，anyhow。Istayedthereandwasbombardedwitholdgentlemenforanhour，perhaps;andallIgotoutofanyofthemwas\"Oh，my！\"
Iwentawaytheninathoughtfulmood。Isaid，thisisagoodpleasureexcursion。Ilikeit。Thepassengersarenotgarrulous，butstilltheyaresociable。Ilikethoseoldpeople，butsomehowtheyallseemtohavethe\"Oh，my\"ratherbad。
Iknewwhatwasthematterwiththem。Theywereseasick。AndIwasgladofit。Weallliketoseepeopleseasickwhenwearenot，ourselves。Playingwhistbythecabinlampswhenitisstormingoutsideispleasant;walkingthequarterdeckinthemoonlightispleasant;smokinginthebreezyforetopispleasantwhenoneisnotafraidtogoupthere;buttheseareallfeebleandcommonplacecomparedwiththejoyofseeingpeoplesufferingthemiseriesofseasickness。
Ipickedupagooddealofinformationduringtheafternoon。AtonetimeIwasclimbingupthequarterdeckwhenthevessel\'sstemwasinthesky;Iwassmokingacigarandfeelingpassablycomfortable。Somebodyejaculated:
\"Come，now，thatwon\'tanswer。Readthesignupthere——NO
SMOKINGABAFTTHEWHEEL！\"
ItwasCaptainDuncan，chiefoftheexpedition。Iwentforward，ofcourse。
Isawalongspyglasslyingonadeskinoneoftheupper—deckstateroomsbackofthepilothouseandreachedafterit——therewasashipinthedistance。
\"Ah，ah——handsoff！Comeoutofthat！\"
Icameoutofthat。Isaidtoadecksweep——butinalowvoice:
\"Whoisthatovergrownpiratewiththewhiskersandthediscordantvoice？\"
\"It\'sCaptainBursley——executiveofficer——sailingmaster。\"
Iloiteredaboutawhile，andthen，forwantofsomethingbettertodo，felltocarvingarailingwithmyknife。Somebodysaid，inaninsinuating，admonitoryvoice:
\"Now，say——myfriend——don\'tyouknowanybetterthantobewhittlingtheshipalltopiecesthatway？Yououghttoknowbetterthanthat。\"
Iwentbackandfoundthedecksweep。
\"Whoisthatsmooth—faced，animatedoutrageyonderinthefineclothes？\"
\"That\'sCaptainL****，theowneroftheship——he\'soneofthemainbosses。\"
InthecourseoftimeIbroughtuponthestarboardsideofthepilot—houseandfoundasextantlyingonabench。Now，Isaid，they\"takethesun\"
throughthisthing;IshouldthinkImightseethatvesselthroughit。
Ihadhardlygotittomyeyewhensomeonetouchedmeontheshoulderandsaiddeprecatingly:
\"I\'llhavetogetyoutogivethattome，Sir。Ifthere\'sanythingyou\'dliketoknowabouttakingthesun，I\'dassoontellyouasnot——butIdon\'tliketotrustanybodywiththatinstrument。Ifyouwantanyfiguringdone——Aye，aye，sir！\"
Hewasgonetoansweracallfromtheotherside。Isoughtthedecksweep。
\"Whoisthatspider—leggedgorillayonderwiththesanctimoniouscountenance？\"
\"It\'sCaptainJones，sir——thechiefmate。\"
\"Well。ThisgoesclearawayaheadofanythingIeverheardofbefore。