The”Dutchman”wasthebestrifleIevershotwith,andwasquiteinvaluablethroughouttheexpedition。
Ihadservedoutamonth’srationstothemen,andmylastinstructionstoRaoufBeyweretolookwellafterLivingstone,andprovideforhiscomfortshouldheappearduringmyabsence。
On22ndJanuary,1872,westartedat8a。m。,whenItookleaveofmygoodfriendandexcellentengineer-in-chief,Mr。EdwinHigginbotham。I
littlethoughtthatweshouldnevermeetagain。
Thewindwaslightandvariable,andmydiahbeeahsoonovertooktheheaviervessels。Intheeveningwealljoinedandconcentratedourforcesattherockyravine,withthedetachmentthatprotectedthecattle。
Onthefollowingday,the23rdJanuary,weallstartedinexcellentspirits。Thesoldiersknewthecountry,andeveryoneappearedtosharetheenjoymentofadventure。Thepeoplehadlearnttodependuponmyguidance,andalthoughtheinteriorofthecountrywasunknowntothem,theywerequitecontentedthatIhadhadapersonalexperienceofthefarsouth,andtheyweresafeinmyhands。
Thestreamwasverypowerful,andthewindwassovariablethatitwasnecessarytotowthevessels。Thiswouldhavebeeneasyworkiftheriverhadbeendeepinallparts,butunfortunatelythewaterwasratherlow,andmanyextensivesandbanksnecessitatedlongdetours。
Themenwerethenobligedtowadehip-deep,andtotowthevesselsroundthebanks。
Ineversawthepeopleinsuchhighspirits。Theywerenotcontentedwithawalkingpace,buttheyracedwitheachother,splashingthroughthewater,andhurryingroundthepointsofthesand-banks,untiltheyoncemorereacheddryground。Theneventhewomenandboysjumpedashore,andlayingholdofthetow-rope,joinedthemeninsinging;andrunningforwardalongthehardbanktheymadethediahbeeahsurgethroughthewater。
Thisfunhadcontinuedforsomehours,andIrejoicedthatallheartsseemedtohaveatlengthunitedinthework。Ihadnofanaticswithme。
Theblackofficerswereexcellentfellowsnowthattheywererelievedfromacertaininfluenceathead-quarters。Abd-el-Kaderwasastrueasgold。MonsoorwasaChristian,——andmy”FortyThieves”werestanch,bravefellowswhowouldgothroughfire。
AliNedjarwas,asusual,revellinginstrengthandactivity,andwasnowforemostintheworkoftowingthediahbeeah。
Asuddenbendintheriverhadcausedasmallsand-bank。Itwasnecessarytodescendfromthehighshoretotowthevesselroundthepromontory。
Men,women,andchildren,jumpeddownandwadedalongtheedgeofthebank。
Asthediahbeeahturnedthesharppoint,Inoticedthatthewaterwasexceedinglydeepclosetothesand-bank,andthestreamwasrunninglikeamillrace。
Fearingsomeaccidenttothechildren,Iorderedallwhocouldnotswimtocomeonboardthediahbeeah。Atthattimethebowofthevesselwasactuallytouchingthesand,butthestern,havingswungoutinthestream,mighthavebeenaboutfifteenfeetfromtheedgeofthebankinverydeepwater。
Whentheorderwasgiventocomeonboard,manyofthepeople,intheebullitionofspirits,leaptheedlesslyintothewateramidships,insteadofboardingthevesselbytheforepart,whichtouchedthesand。
Theseweredraggedonboardwithconsiderabledifficulty。
TheboySaatwouldhavebeendrownedhadnotMonsoorsavedhim。Intheconfusion,whenseveralwerestrugglinginthewater,InoticedAliNedjar,whocouldnotswim,battlingfranticallywithhishandsinsuchamannerthatIsawthepoorfellowhadlosthishead。Hewasnotthreefeetfromthevessel’sside。
Myfourlife-buoyswerehungonopenhooksatthefourcornersofthepoop-deck;thus,withoutonemoment’sdelay,Idroppedabuoyalmostintohishands。Thisheimmediatelyseizedwithbotharms,andI,ofcourse,thoughthewassafe:thebuoynaturallycantedupashefirstclutchedit,and,insteadofholdingon,tomyastonishmentherelinquishedhisgrasp!
Thenextmomentthestrongcurrenthadhurriedthebuoyantsafeguardfaraway。Aredtarbooshfollowedthelife-buoy,floatingnearitonthesurface……AliNedjarwasgone!——drowned!Heneverroseagain……
Iwasdreadfullyshockedatthelossofmygoodsoldier——hehadbeenmuchbelovedbyusall。Wecouldhardlybelievethathewasreallygoneforever。Whowouldnowleadthesonginthemoonlightnights?orbethefirstineveryrace?
Ihadquicklythrowneverylife-buoyintotheriver,asHowarti,Mohammed,andothersofthebestswimmershadvainlyplungedafterAli,andwerenowsearchingfruitlesslyforhisbody,carriedawaybythepowerfulcurrent。Theboatwassentafterthemimmediately,andtheywerebroughtonboard。
Themirthofthediahbeeahhadvanished;thegeneralfavouritehadsosuddenlydisappearedfromamongus,thatnoonespoke,Thewomensatdownandcried。
Hisknapsackandriflewerebroughttome,andalisthavingbeentakenofhisclothesandammunition,Icuthisname,”Ali,”uponthestockofhissnider,whichIreservedforthebestmanIshouldbeabletoselect。Therewasnobetterepitaphforsogoodasoldierthanhisnameengravedonhistrustyrifle。
Thateveningeveryonewassad,andmypeopleallrefusedtheirfood……
Onthefollowingday,thewindandstreambeingadverse,wehadmuchtroubleinavoidingthesand-banks,andourprogresswassoslowthatweonlyreachedthebaseoftherockyhillRegiaf。HereIresolvedtowaitfortheheaviervessels,whichwerefarbehind。
Thenativeswerenowfriendly,andonthe25thJanuary,LieutenantBakeraccompaniedmetothesummitofRegiaftotakeobservationsofcompassbearingsofallthevariousmountainsandprominentpointsofthecountry。
AtthewesternbaseofRegiafthereisaverycuriousrocksupporteduponapedestal,thatformsagigantictable。
Thisgreatslabofsyeniteisoneofmanythathavedetachedandfallenastheoriginalmountaindecomposed。
Iobtainedmymeasuringtapefromthediahbeeah,whichgavethefollowingresults:——
Feet。Inches。
Lengthofslab。454
Breadthofslab。458
Thicknessofslab。49
Heightfromground。105
Circumferenceofclaypedestal690
Thisrockmusthavechancedtofalluponamassofextremelyhardclay。
Thedenudationoftheslopingsurface,causedbytheheavyrainsofmanycenturies,mustbeequaltothepresentheightoftheclaypedestal,asalltheexteriorhasbeenwashedawayandthelevelreduced。Theclaypedestalistheoriginalearth,which,havingbeenprotectedfromtheweatherbythestoneroof,remainsintact。
TheBarisseemedtohavesomereverenceforthisstone,andweweretoldthatitwasdangeroustosleepbeneathit,asmanypeoplewhohadtriedtheexperimenthaddied。
Ibelievethissuperstitionissimplytheresultofsomeoldlegendsconcerningthedeathofapersonwhomayhavebeenkilledinhissleep,byastonethatprobablydetachedandfellfromtheundersurfaceoftheslab。
Iexaminedtherockcarefully,andfoundmanypiecesthatgavewarningofscalingoff。Severallargeflakes,eachweighingsomehundredweight,laybeneaththetablerock,-upontheundersurfaceofwhichcouldbedistinctlytracedthemouldofthedetachedslab。
On27thJanuary,wearrivedwithallthevesselsatthefootofthecataracts,inN。lat。4degrees38’。Thisisaverylovelyspot,astherockyislandsarecoveredwithrich,greenforest;theverdurebeingperpetual,astherootsofthetreesarewellnourishedbywater。
OuroldfriendBeddenmetuswithanumberofhispeople,andcameonboardthediahbeeah。Heprofessedtobequitereadytoconveyourbaggagetothesouth,andIproposedthathispeopleshouldgoasfarasLobore,aboutsixtymilesfromthisspot,whereIknewwecouldprocurecarriers,asduringmyformerjourneythenativesofLoboreweretheonlypeoplewhocouldbedependedupon。
Beddenseemeddeterminedtohelpus,andIreallybelievedthatourluckhadarrivedatlast,andthatIshouldbeabletoconveythecarts,togetherwiththesteamer,tothenavigableportionoftheNileinN。
lat。3degrees32’。
Ideterminedtobeveryciviltothegreatsheik,Bedden;Ithereforearrangedwithhimthattheworkshouldbeentirelyinhishands,andthatheshouldrepresentthegovernmentasmyvakeel。Atthesametime,Igavehimagrandcloakofpurpleandsilvertissue,togetherwithatinhelmet,andturbanofcobalt-blueserge;alsoalooking-glass,andaquantityofbeadsofvariouscolours。
Thecountrywasdriedup,andtherewasonlyscantherbageformylargeherdofcattle,thehalfofwhichIpromisedtogiveBeddenifhewouldcarryourbaggagetoLobore。
Thesheikreturnedtohisvillagetomakearrangementswithhispeopleforthejourney。
Somehoworother,ashetookleaveandmarchedoffinhisgrandcloakofsilverandpurple,Ihadcertainmisgivingsofhissincerity。
Althoughgreatnumbersofnativesthrongedthecountry,andcamedowntothevessels,therewasnotonewomanorchild。Theabsenceofwomenandchildrenisasuresignofevilintentions。Mywife,whoseexperiencewasequaltomyown,atonceexpressedhersuspicions。Hadthenativesbeenhonestandsincere,theirwomenwouldassuredlyhavecometovisitherfromsimplecuriosity。
Notonlywasthereanabsenceofwomenandchildren,butthecattlehadbeendrivenfromthecountry。Therewereseveralsmallcattlezareebaswithinhalfamileofthevessels,situateduponthehighground。Iwenttovisitthem,asthoughsimplystrollingformyamusement;thedungofcattlewasfresh,showingthatthezareebashadbeenoccupiedduringthepastnight,buttheherdhadevidentlybeendrivenfaraway。
Bedden’speoplehadneverbeenattackedbytheslave-traders,ashistribewasconsideredtoopowerful;hehadthereforenocauseforsuspicion。
Unfortunately,mypastexperienceoftheBarinativeshadprovedthatkindnesswasthrownawayuponthem,andthatnothingcouldbedonewiththemuntiltheirinferiorityhadbeenprovedbyforceofarms。
Beddenhadneversuffered。Hehadpromisedtoassist;butnopromiseofanativeisworthmorethanthebreathofhismouth。Ifhefailedmenow,theobjectofmyenterprisewouldbelost。Ishouldnotbeabletomove。
Allmycareandtroublewouldhavebeenthrownaway。
Iwasveryanxious;but,withoutmentioningmysuspicions,Iorderedalltheheavyvesselstocrossovertotheeastsideoftheriver,topreparefordisembarkingthecartsandgeneraleffects。
Onthefollowingmorningthesheik,Bedden,arrivedtovisitme,withmanyofhispeople。IhaderectedatentonshoreinwhichIcouldreceivehim。
Iwasstruckwithapeculiarchangeinhismanner,andafterashortconversationheaskedme,”WhyIhadsentthevesselstotheeastside?”
Irepliedthattheywouldbegintounloadandprepareforthejourney。”Whoisgoingtocarryallyourbaggage?”continuedBedden,asthoughtheideahadoccurredtohimforthefirsttime。
Iwasperfectlyaghastatthiscoolandprostratingquestion。Mysuspicionshadbeenwellfounded。
IexplainedtoBeddenthatIhadarrivedaccordingtohisexpressinvitation,givensometimebefore,whenhehadpromisedthathismenshouldconveymythingsasfarasLobore。Ipretendedthathisquestionhadnowbeenaskedsimplytoamuseme,andIbeggedhiminearnesttolosenotimeincollectinghispeople,asIshouldrequireatleast2,000carriers。