第20章
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  ”January10——Atday-breakwedistinguishedeightsailonthenorthernhorizon。”January11——Brisknorthwind。RaoufBeyarrivedintheevening。”January12——Startedandpassedthechokedriverwithmuchdifficulty,andenteredthechanneloflastyear’sclearing。”January13——Weonlymadeabouttwomilesyesterdayandto-day,beingstoppedbyvegetation。”January14——Cuttingpartially,butthechannelismuchimprovedsincelastyear。Madetwoandahalfmiles。”January15——Madethree-quartersofamile,andhavingreachedthelakeTimsahcrocodilelakewefoundtheriverblockedup;wethereforecutourwayintoanopenbutshallowchannelwhichlastyearwasimpassablefromwantofdepth。”January16-Thediahbeeahwentahead,butthesteamerandheavyvesselsweremuchdelayedbyshallows。Iwentonanddetermineduponthepassage,theopenlakebeingvisibleabout600yardsdistant。”January17-Madeabout300yardsofheavycuttingthroughraftsofvegetation。Thelakeoflastyearnearlychokedup;about100acresofraftshavingcompletelydestroyedit。”January18-Cutabout350yards,andat3。30p。m。weenteredthelake。Fromthemast-headitappearsthatanunbrokensheetofwaternowexistsforsomemiles。Itrustthismaybetrue,andthatnomiragedeceivesus。”January19-Sailedfourmiles,atwhichplacewefoundanewchannelcomingfromthesouth,whileourchanneloflastyearfromsouth-eastappearedtobeclosedathalfamiledistance。Exploredthenewchannelforabouttwomiles;inappearanceitwasariverof200or300yardswide。Atlengthwearrivedatasuddofsmalldimensionswithopenwaterbeyond。Wereturnedtothejunction,andpassedthenightatasuddhalfamileupouroldchannel。”January20-At7a。m。Itookthedingy,andwithmuchdifficultypushedaboutamilethroughthegrassuntilIfoundthewholecountryclosedbyvegetation。Ithinktheriverhasopenedanewchannel,andthatthepassageofyesterdaywilltakeustonearlythesamespotabovethesuddthatwereachedbyanotherroutelastyear。”Manyvesselshavingarrived,IvisitedtheEnglishmenandphysickedRamsallandMr。Higginbotham。At4。15p。m。westarted,polingroundtheangletoenterthenewchanneldiscoveredyesterday。Intheeveningweallsailedwithalightbreeze,andfoundtheriveropenforthreeandahalfmilesahead。Haltedforthenight。”January21-Theriverbeingclosedahead,Itookthedingy,andaftermuchtroublesucceededinreachingouroldchannelintheclearriver。

  Havingstartedat7a。m。,Ireturnedat1p。m。Ihadsoundedthechannelthewholedistance,andIhavedeterminedtocutapassagethroughto-morrow。”January22-Cut350yardsthroughheavysudd。Lastyearthispiecewas600yards。Weatlengthreachedthesmalllakewherewelastyearburiedthetwoartillerymeninanant-hill。”January23-Itookthediahbeeahamileandaquarteruptheriver,whilethefleetwasbeingsqueezedthroughourspongychannel。”January24-YesterdaythefivevesselsthatwereleftbehindbyRaoufBeyarrived,andthefleetassembled。”IamingreatanxietyaboutTayibAghawhohastwelvevesselswithhim,noneofwhichareyetinsight。”Thisblackcolonelisnotclever,andshouldanaccidentoccur,hewillbeatalosshowtoact。Julianisunwellwithfever,butHigginbothamisbetter。”Iwentalongwayinthedingy,andsucceededinfindingthetruechannelofthestreambyprobingwiththetwelve-footpolethroughthegrass。To-morrowweshallbegincutting,asthewholecountryisclosed。”Thetreethatmarkstheopenwateroflastyearisaboutamileandahalfdistant。Thereisasolitarydryspotnearthis,theheartofdesolation——atumulusofabouthalfanacre,likethebackofahugetortoise,israisedaboutfivefeetabovethehighestwaterlevel。Uponthiscrocodileslovetobaskinundisturbedsleep。”January25-Themencutabout300yards。”January26-Weagainaccomplishedabout300yards,andpushedthevesselswithinthechannel。”January27-Wearethankfulforacomparativelyopenditch,deep,butcoveredwithgrass,throughwhichthediahbeeahcutherpathbysailingbeforeastrongbreeze,andweenteredthelakeat11。20a。m。Thereisnochangeheresincelastyear。Thesteamerandfleetarecloseup,butthereisalittledeepeningnecessaryatthemouthofthechannel。Thediahbeeahwentaheadforsixmilesalongthelakeandbroadriver,andanchoredforthenight。”January28-Withalightbreeze,thediahbeeahsailedfourmiles,andstoppedatthethreedubbas,whenceweturnedbacklastyear。Evennowthereisonlythreefeetandahalfofwater,andweshallhavegreattrouble。Ourfisherman,Howarti,caughtagreathauloffineboultiwiththecasting-net。”January29-Ishotsomeducksandgeese。Aslightshowerfellinearlymorning。Iexploredaboutsevenmilesoftheriverinadvance。Thedepthisveryunsatisfactory,varyingfromshallowstodeepchannels。”January30-Thefleetjoinedinsectionsduringlastnightandto-day。

  Settoworkwiththelong-handledhoes,andcutachannelthroughtheshallowsforfiftyyards,andtookthevesselsforward。”January31-Cutachannelthroughtheshallows,butwecouldnotgetthesteameralong。”February1-About1,200menatworkcuttingachannelandtowingthesteamerandnoggursthrough。Thediahbeeahandtwonoggurspassedaheadforaboutamile。Wethenstoppedtoawaitthesteamerandothervesselsthatweredelayedbythepowerfulcurrent。”February2-Stoppedalldaywaitingforthesteameraboutamileaheadofthenoggurs。Whenweleftthedubba,Ihadleftaletterinabottle,addressedtoTayibAgha,toorderhimtocomeonwithoutdelay,anddeepenthechannelswehavecut,shoulditbenecessary。”February3-Thesteamercameupat10a。m。At10。45thediahbeeahmadesail,andaftertwomileswasdelayedbyasmallsudd。Caremustbetakentosailbythewestbranchofthetwostreams,asthereisnowaterintheeastchannel。”Forsixmileswehavehadnothingbutshallows。Evenatthisseasonthereisonlyadepthoffourfeetinmanyplaces,andamonthhencetheriverwillbeimpassable。”TayibAgha’sboatsareinsight,aboutfourmilesdistance,bearingnorth。Wecutthroughthesmallsudd,andinaquarterofamile,wearrivedatanopenwater,veryshallow:inmanyplacesonlythreefeetdeep。Stoppedforthefleet,anduponarrivalofthesteamerandothers,Ihadmarkedoutthechanneltobecleared。Themensettoworkimmediately。Ithenpassedaheadwiththediahbeeahforaboutamileandahalf,thedepthofwater,asusual,varying,butoftenaslowasfourfeet。Wewereatlengthstoppedattheconfluenceoftwochannels,eachshallow。Thesunwassetting,thereforewehaltedforthenight。A

  buffalocrossedtheriverabout200yardsahead。”February4-Itookthedingyearlyinthemorningandexploredbothchannels;thatontherighthasnowaterbeyondadepthofabouttwofeet。Theleftisthetruestream,butthedepthinsomeplacesisonlythreefeet;thusthereismoreworkforthemenupontheirarrival。Hadwearrivedhereamonthearlier,wecouldhavejustpassedtheshallows,asourvesselsdrawanaverageofalittleoverfourfeet。Novesselsshouldarriveherelaterthan1stofJanuary;theentireriverisaridiculousimposition;amonthlater,thebedwillbenearlydry。Amileahead,bothchannelsareclosedbyasuddofvegetation,wemustthusawaituntiltheboatsarrive。AltogethertheentirejourneybytheBahrGiraffeisapainfulabsurdity,andmyexpeditionwillbefruitlessinallbutgeographicalresultsunlesstheauthoritiesoftheSoudanwillclearthemainchanneloftheWhiteNile。”February5-Noneofthevesselsarrivedyesterday。Iwentbackandfoundtheminaterriblefix,asthewaterisleavingusrapidly,andwemustcutafreshchannelthroughthesand,aboutonehundredyardslong。”February6-Itookthediahbeeahamileandaquarteraheadtoasudd,passingoverseveralshallowsofonlytwofeeteightinches,andthreefeet,whichwillagaincausegreatdelayandlabour。Ireturnedtothefleetandassistedinthetediousworkofdraggingthevesselsovertheshallows。IntheeveningIreturnedtothediahbeeah,andhavingdraggedthedingyacrossthesudd,Iexploredthechannelaheadforanhour,foraboutthreemiles;passedoverdistressingshallowsforaspaceofaquarterofamileaheadofthediahbeeah,afterwhichIenteredadeep,narrowchannelwithveryrapidcurrent。”Itisquiteimpossibletosaywhereweareastheprofessedguidesseemtoknownothingofthishorriblechaos,whichchangesitsappearanceconstantly。Itismostharassing。”February7-LasteveningIbroughtthediahbeeahbacktothefleet,soastopushtheworkforwardpersonally。Thesoldiersandofficershopeweshallreturnasfailures,inthesamemanneraslastyear。Ihave,therefore,informedthemandRaoufBeyofficially,thatnoboatsshallretreat,butthatshouldtheriverrundry,theyshallremainhereuntiltheriseofthewaterduringthenextwetseason,whentheyshallgoontoWat-el-Shambi。Thisdecisionhasfrightenedthem,andtheyareworkingto-daywithbetterspirit。”Iunpackedandservedoutahundredspadesfordiggingchannels;andI

  haveorderedthemtocommenceto-morrowmorninganddigoutastraightpassageforthethirtyonevesselsthatstillremainintheshallows。”February8-ThisisthedateofdeparturelastyearfromKhartoum;aninconceivablemadnesshadanyoneknownthecharacteroftheriver。Allhandsasusualtugging,hauling,anddeepeningtheriverwithspadesandhoes;butthemorewedig,thefasterthewaterrunsoutofthebed,whichthreatenstoleaveushighanddry。”February9-Theworkasusual。Allhandsthoroughlydisgusted。Iamobligedtolightenthevesselsbydischargingcargointhemud。Ourwaggonsmakeexcellentplatformsfortheluggage。Evenwiththisassistanceweonlydrewsevenvesselsthroughtheshallowsintothetrueriverchannel。”To-morrowwemustdischargemorecargo。”Theanxietyofleading1,600men,andfifty-eightvesselswithheavycargoes,throughthishorriblecountryisverydistressing。”WhenIshallhavesucceededindraggingthevesselsintothetruechannel,Ishallconstructadamintherear,soastoretainthewateratahigherlevel。IhavenodoubtthataseriesofsuchdamswillberequiredtoenableustoreachtheNile。Shoulditbeimpossibletoproceedwiththeheavyvessels,Ishallleavethemthatchedoverasfloatingstores,withasmallguard,untilthenextwetseasonshallraisetheriverlevel。”February10-Igaveorderstodischargeallcargoes,sothatnovesselshoulddrawmorethanthreefeet。Allhandsarenowemployedatthiswork,asitisimpossibletocutachannelthroughthesand,whichfillsinasfastasitisdeepened。”February11-Twenty-sevenvesselspassedthediahbeeah,havinglightenedtheircargoes;thesevesselsmustdischargeeverythingatKhor,oneandahalfmileahead,andreturntofetchtheremainingbaggage。Theworkistremendous,andtheriskgreat。Thedamageofstoresiscertain,andshouldaheavyshowerfall,whichthecloudystateoftheweatherrendersprobable,thewholeofourstores,nowlyingonthesoftmud,willbedestroyed。”To-dayIcutadeeperchannelnearthediahbeeah,anddividedthemenintogangsonthevariousshallowspots,totoweachboatpastasshemayarrive。Thesteamerishardandfast,althoughshehasdischargedeverything,andshemustbeliterallydugoutofthepassage。”

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