第50章
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  Theinstinctiverevoltofhisspiritagainstpatronage,isaqualitymuchtoberespectedintheEnglishworkingman。Itisthebaseofthebaseofhisbestqualities。Norisitsurprisingthatheshouldbeundulysuspiciousofpatronage,andsometimesresentfulofitevenwhereitisnot,seeingwhatafloodofwashytalkhasbeenletlooseonhisdevotedhead,orwithwhatcomplacentcondescensionthesamedevotedheadhasbeensmoothedandpatted。Itisaprooftomeofhisself-controlthatheneverstrikesoutpugilistically,rightandleft,whenaddressedasoneof’Myfriends,’or’Myassembledfriends;’thathedoesnotbecomeinappeasable,andrunamucklikeaMalay,wheneverheseesabipedinbroadclothgettingonaplatformtotalktohim;thatanypretenceofimprovinghismind,doesnotinstantlydrivehimoutofhismind,andcausehimtotosshisobligingpatronlikeamadbull。

  For,howoftenhaveIheardtheunfortunateworkingmanlectured,asifhewerealittlecharity-child,humidastohisnasaldevelopment,strictlyliteralastohisCatechism,andcalledbyProvidencetowalkallhisdaysinastationinliferepresentedonfestiveoccasionsbyamugofwarmmilk-and-waterandabun!Whatpopgunsofjokeshavetheseearstingledtohearletoffathim,whatasininesentiments,whatimpotentconclusions,whatspelling-

  bookmoralities,whatadaptationsoftheorator’sinsufferabletediousnesstotheassumedlevelofhisunderstanding!Ifhissledge-hammers,hisspadesandpick-axes,hissawsandchisels,hispaint-potsandbrushes,hisforges,furnaces,andengines,thehorsesthathedroveathiswork,andthemachinesthatdrovehimathiswork,werealltoysinonelittlepaperbox,andhethebabywhoplayedwiththem,hecouldnothavebeendiscoursedto,moreimpertinentlyandabsurdlythanIhaveheardhimdiscoursedtotimesinnumerable。Consequently,notbeingafoolorafawner,hehascometoacknowledgehispatronagebyvirtuallysaying:’Letmealone。IfyouunderstandmenobetterthanTHAT,sirandmadam,letmealone。Youmeanverywell,Idaresay,butIdon’tlikeit,andIwon’tcomehereagaintohaveanymoreofit。’

  Whateverisdoneforthecomfortandadvancementoftheworkingmanmustbesofardonebyhimselfasthatitismaintainedbyhimself。

  Andtheremustbeinitnotouchofcondescension,noshadowofpatronage。Inthegreatworkingdistricts,thistruthisstudiedandunderstood。WhentheAmericancivilwarrendereditnecessary,firstinGlasgow,andafterwardsinManchester,thattheworkingpeopleshouldbeshownhowtoavailthemselvesoftheadvantagesderivablefromsystem,andfromthecombinationofnumbers,inthepurchaseandthecookingoftheirfood,thistruthwasaboveallthingsborneinmind。Thequickconsequencewas,thatsuspicionandreluctancewerevanquished,andthattheeffortresultedinanastonishingandacompletesuccess。

  SuchthoughtspassedthroughmymindonaJulymorningofthissummer,asIwalkedtowardsCommercialStreetnotUncommercialStreet,Whitechapel。TheGlasgowandManchestersystemhadbeenlatelyseta-goingthere,bycertaingentlemenwhofeltaninterestinitsdiffusion,andIhadbeenattractedbythefollowinghand-

  billprintedonrose-colouredpaper:

  Commercial-street,Whitechapel,WhereAccommodationisprovidedforDiningcomfortably300Personsatatime。

  Openfrom7A。M。till7P。M。

  AllArticlesoftheBESTQUALITY。

  CupofTeaorCoffeeOnePennyBreadandButterOnePennyBreadandCheeseOnePennySliceofbreadOnehalf-pennyorOnePennyBoiledEggOnePennyGingerBeerOnePennyTheaboveArticlesalwaysready。

  Besidestheabovemaybehad,from12to3o’clock,BowlofScotchBrothOnePennyBowlofSoupOnePennyPlateofPotatoesOnePennyPlateofMincedBeefTwopencePlateofColdBeefTwopencePlateofColdHamTwopencePlateofPlumPuddingorRiceOnePennyAstheEconomyofCookingdependsgreatlyuponthesimplicityofthearrangementswithwhichagreatnumberofpersonscanbeservedatonetime,theUpperRoomofthisEstablishmentwillbeespeciallysetapartforaPUBLICDINNEREVERYDAY

  From12till3o’clock,CONSISTINGOFTHEFOLLOWINGDISHES,BowlofBroth,orSoup,PlateofColdBeeforHam,PlateofPotatoes,PlumPudding,orRice。

  FIXEDCHARGE4。5D。

  THEDAILYPAPERSPROVIDED。

  N。B-ThisEstablishmentisconductedonthestrictestbusinessprinciples,withthefullintentionofmakingitself-supporting,sothateveryonemayfrequentitwithafeelingofperfectindependence。

  TheassistanceofallfrequentingtheDepotisconfidentlyexpectedincheckinganythinginterferingwiththecomfort,quiet,andregularityoftheestablishment。

  PleasedonotdestroythisHandBill,buthandittosomeotherpersonwhomitmayinterest。

  TheSelf-SupportingCookingDepotnotaverygoodname,andonewouldrathergiveitanEnglishonehadhiredanewly-builtwarehousethatitfoundtolet;thereforeitwasnotestablishedinpremisesspeciallydesignedforthepurpose。But,atasmallcosttheywereexceedinglywelladaptedtothepurpose:beinglight,wellventilated,clean,andcheerful。Theyconsistedofthreelargerooms。Thatonthebasementstorywasthekitchen;thatonthegroundfloorwasthegeneraldining-room;thatonthefloorabovewastheUpperRoomreferredtointhehand-bill,wherethePublicDinneratfourpence-halfpennyaheadwasprovidedeveryday。

  Thecookingwasdone,withmucheconomyofspaceandfuel,byAmericancooking-stoves,andbyyoungwomennotpreviously,broughtupascooks;thewallsandpillarsofthetwodining-roomswereagreeablybrightenedwithornamentalcolours;thetableswerecapableofaccommodatingsixoreightpersonseach;theattendantswereallyoungwomen,becominglyandneatlydressed,anddressedalike。Ithinkthewholestaffwasfemale,withtheexceptionofthestewardormanager。

  Myfirstinquiriesweredirectedtothewagesofthisstaff;

  because,ifanyestablishmentclaimingtobeself-supporting,liveuponthespoliationofanybodyoranything,orekeoutafeebleexistencebypoormouthsandbeggarlyresourcesastoomanyso-

  calledMechanics’Institutionsdo,ImakeboldtoexpressmyUncommercialopinionthatithasnobusinesstolive,andhadbetterdie。Itwasmadecleartomebytheaccountbooks,thateverypersonemployedwasproperlypaid。Mynextinquiriesweredirectedtothequalityoftheprovisionspurchased,andtothetermsonwhichtheywerebought。Itwasmadeequallycleartomethatthequalitywastheverybest,andthatallbillswerepaidweekly。Mynextinquiriesweredirectedtothebalance-sheetforthelasttwoweeks-onlythethirdandfourthoftheestablishment’scareer。Itwasmadeequallycleartome,thataftereverythingboughtwaspaidfor,andaftereachweekwaschargedwithitsfullshareofwages,rentandtaxes,depreciationofplantinuse,andinterestoncapitalattherateoffourpercent。perannum,thelastweekhadyieldedaprofitofinroundnumbersonepoundten;andthepreviousweekaprofitofsixpoundsten。BythistimeIfeltthatIhadahealthyappetiteforthedinners。

  Ithadjuststrucktwelve,andaquicksuccessionoffaceshadalreadybeguntoappearatalittlewindowinthewallofthepartitionedspacewhereIsatlookingoverthebooks。Withinthislittlewindow,likeapay-boxatatheatre,aneatandbriskyoungwomanpresidedtotakemoneyandissuetickets。Everyonecominginmusttakeaticket。Eitherthefourpence-halfpennyticketfortheupperroomthemostpopularticket,Ithink,orapennyticketforabowlofsoup,orasmanypennyticketsasheorshechoosetobuy。Forthreepennyticketsonehadquiteawiderangeofchoice。Aplateofcoldboiledbeefandpotatoes;oraplateofcoldhamandpotatoes;oraplateofhotmincedbeefandpotatoes;

  orabowlofsoup,breadandcheese,andaplateofplum-pudding。

  Touchingwhattheyshouldhave,somecustomersontakingtheirseatsfellintoareverie-becamemildlydistracted-postponeddecision,andsaidinbewilderment,theywouldthinkofit。OneoldmanInoticedwhenIsatamongthetablesinthelowerroom,whowasstartledbythebilloffare,andsatcontemplatingitasifitweresomethingofaghostlynature。Thedecisionoftheboyswasasrapidastheirexecution,andalwaysincludedpudding。

  Therewereseveralwomenamongthediners,andseveralclerksandshopmen。Therewerecarpentersandpaintersfromtheneighbouringbuildingsunderrepair,andtherewerenauticalmen,andtherewere,asonedinerobservedtome,’someofmostsorts。’Someweresolitary,somecametwotogether,somedinedinpartiesofthreeorfour,orsix。Thelattertalkedtogether,butassuredlynoonewaslouderthanatmyclubinPall-Mall。Oneyoungfellowwhistledinratherashrillmannerwhilehewaitedforhisdinner,butIwasgratifiedtoobservethathedidsoinevidentdefianceofmyUncommercialindividuality。Quiteagreeingwithhim,onconsideration,thatIhadnobusinesstobethere,unlessIdinedliketherest,’Iwentin,’asthephraseis,forfourpence-

  halfpenny。

  Theroomofthefourpence-halfpennybanquethad,likethelowerroom,acounterinit,onwhichwererangedagreatnumberofcoldportionsreadyfordistribution。Behindthiscounter,thefragrantsoupwassteamingindeepcans,andthebest-cookedofpotatoeswerefishedoutofsimilarreceptacles。Nothingtoeatwastouchedwithhishand。Everywaitresshadherowntablestoattendto。Assoonasshesawanewcustomerseathimselfatoneofhertables,shetookfromthecounterallhisdinner-hissoup,potatoes,meat,andpudding-pileditupdexterouslyinhertwohands,setitbeforehim,andtookhisticket。Thisservingofthewholedinneratonce,hadbeenfoundgreatlytosimplifythebusinessofattendance,andwasalsopopularwiththecustomers:whowerethusenabledtovarythemealbyvaryingtheroutineofdishes:

  beginningwithsoup-to-day,puttingsoupinthemiddleto-morrow,puttingsoupattheendthedayafterto-morrow,andringingsimilarchangesonmeatandpudding。Therapiditywithwhicheverynew-comergotserved,wasremarkable;andthedexteritywithwhichthewaitressesquitenewtotheartamonthbeforedischargedtheirduty,wasasagreeabletosee,astheneatsmartnesswithwhichtheyworetheirdressandhaddressedtheirhair。

  IfIseldomsawbetterwaiting,soIcertainlyneveratebettermeat,potatoes,orpudding。Andthesoupwasanhonestandstoutsoup,withriceandbarleyinit,and’littlemattersfortheteethtotouch,’ashadbeenobservedtomebymyfriendbelowstairsalreadyquoted。Thedinner-service,too,wasneitherconspicuouslyhideousforHighArtnorforLowArt,butwasofapleasantandpureappearance。Concerningtheviandsandtheircookery,onelastremark。IdinedatmyclubinPall-Mallaforesaid,afewdaysafterwards,forexactlytwelvetimesthemoney,andnothalfaswell。

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