Sothatintheaffectionbestowedonpetanimalsthecanonofexpensivenessispresentmoreorlessremotelyasanormwhichguidesandshapesthesentimentandtheselectionofitsobject。
Thelikeistrue，aswillbenoticedpresently，withrespecttoaffectionforpersonsalso；althoughthemannerinwhichthenormactsinthatcaseissomewhatdifferent。
Thecaseofthefasthorseismuchlikethatofthedog。Heisonthewholeexpensive，orwastefulanduseless——fortheindustrialpurpose。Whatproductiveusehemaypossess，inthewayofenhancingthewell-beingofthecommunityormakingthewayoflifeeasierformen，takestheformofexhibitionsofforceandfacilityofmotionthatgratifythepopularaestheticsense。Thisisofcourseasubstantialserviceability。Thehorseisnotendowedwiththespiritualaptitudeforserviledependenceinthesamemeasureasthedog；butheministerseffectuallytohismaster’simpulsetoconvertthe“animate“forcesoftheenvironmenttohisownuseanddiscretionandsoexpresshisowndominatingindividualitythroughthem。Thefasthorseisatleastpotentiallyarace-horse，ofhighorlowdegree；anditisassuchthatheispeculiarlyserviceabletohisowner。Theutilityofthefasthorselieslargelyinhisefficiencyasameansofemulation；itgratifiestheowner’ssenseofaggressionanddominancetohavehisownhorseoutstriphisneighbor’s。Thisusebeingnotlucrative，butonthewholeprettyconsistentlywasteful，andquiteconspicuouslyso，itishonorific，andthereforegivesthefasthorseastrongpresumptivepositionofreputability。Beyondthis，therace-horseproperhasalsoasimilarlynon-industrialbuthonorificuseasagamblinginstrument。
Thefasthorse，then，isaestheticallyfortunate，inthatthecanonofpecuniarygoodreputelegitimatesafreeappreciationofwhateverbeautyorserviceabilityhemaypossess。
Hispretensionshavethecountenanceoftheprincipleofconspicuouswasteandthebackingofthepredatoryaptitudefordominanceandemulation。Thehorseis，moreover，abeautifulanimal，althoughtherace-horseissoinnopeculiardegreetotheuninstructedtasteofthosepersonswhobelongneitherintheclassofrace-horsefanciersnorintheclasswhosesenseofbeautyisheldinabeyancebythemoralconstraintofthehorsefancier’saward。Tothisuntutoredtastethemostbeautifulhorseseemstobeaformwhichhassufferedlessradicalalterationthantherace-horseunderthebreeder’sselectivedevelopmentoftheanimal。Still，whenawriterorspeaker——especiallyofthosewhoseeloquenceismostconsistentlycommonplacewantsanillustrationofanimalgraceandserviceability，forrhetoricaluse，hehabituallyturnstothehorse；andhecommonlymakesitplainbeforeheisdonethatwhathehasinmindistherace-horse。
Itshouldbenotedthatinthegraduatedappreciationofvarietiesofhorsesandofdogs，suchasonemeetswithamongpeopleofevenmoderatelycultivatedtastesinthesematters，thereisalsodiscernibleanotherandmoredirectlineofinfluenceoftheleisure-classcanonsofreputability。Inthiscountry，forinstance，leisure-classtastesaretosomeextentshapedonusagesandhabitswhichprevail，orwhichareapprehendedtoprevail，amongtheleisureclassofGreatBritain。
Indogsthisistruetoalessextentthaninhorses。Inhorses，moreparticularlyinsaddlehorses——whichattheirbestservethepurposeofwastefuldisplaysimply——itwillholdtrueinageneralwaythatahorseismorebeautifulinproportionasheismoreEnglish；theEnglishleisureclassbeing，forpurposesofreputableusage，theupperleisureclassofthiscountry，andsotheexemplarforthelowergrades。Thismimicryinthemethodsoftheapperceptionofbeautyandintheformingofjudgmentsoftasteneednotresultinaspurious，oratanyratenotahypocriticaloraffected，predilection。Thepredilectionisasseriousandassubstantialanawardoftastewhenitrestsonthisbasisaswhenitrestsonanyother，thedifferenceisthatthistasteisandassubstantialanawardoftastewhenitrestsonthisbasisaswhenitrestsonanyother；thedifferenceisthatthistasteisatasteforthereputablycorrect，notfortheaestheticallytrue。
Themimicry，itshouldbesaid，extendsfurtherthantothesenseofbeautyinhorsefleshsimply。Itincludestrappingsandhorsemanshipaswell，sothatthecorrectorreputablybeautifulseatorpostureisalsodecidedbyEnglishusage，aswellastheequestriangait。Toshowhowfortuitousmaysometimesbethecircumstanceswhichdecidewhatshallbebecomingandwhatnotunderthepecuniarycanonofbeauty，itmaybenotedthatthisEnglishseat，andthepeculiarlydistressinggaitwhichhasmadeanawkwardseatnecessary，areasurvivalfromthetimewhentheEnglishroadsweresobadwithmireandmudastobevirtuallyimpassableforahorsetravellingatamorecomfortablegait；sothatapersonofdecoroustastesinhorsemanshiptodayridesapunchwithdockedtail，inanuncomfortablepostureandatadistressinggait，becausetheEnglishroadsduringagreatpartofthelastcenturywereimpassableforahorsetravellingatamorehorse-likegait，orforananimalbuiltformovingwitheaseoverthefirmandopencountrytowhichthehorseisindigenous。
Itisnotonlywithrespecttoconsumablegoods——includingdomesticanimals——thatthecanonsoftastehavebeencoloredbythecanonsofpecuniaryreputability。Somethingtothelikeeffectistobesaidforbeautyinpersons。Inordertoavoidwhatevermaybematterofcontroversy，noweightwillbegiveninthisconnectiontosuchpopularpredilectionastheremaybeforthedignifiedleisurelybearingandpolypresencethatarebyvulgartraditionassociatedwithopulenceinmaturemen。Thesetraitsareinsomemeasureacceptedaselementsofpersonalbeauty。Buttherearecertainelementsoffemininebeauty，ontheotherhand，whichcomeinunderthishead，andwhichareofsoconcreteandspecificacharacterastoadmitofitemizedappreciation。Itismoreorlessarulethatincommunitieswhichareatthestageofeconomicdevelopmentatwhichwomenarevaluedbytheupperclassfortheirservice，theidealoffemalebeautyisarobust，large-limbedwoman。Thegroundofappreciationisthephysique，whiletheconformationofthefaceisofsecondaryweightonly。Awell-knowninstanceofthisidealoftheearlypredatorycultureisthatofthemaidensoftheHomericpoems。
Thisidealsuffersachangeinthesucceedingdevelopment，when，intheconventionalscheme，theofficeofthehigh-classwifecomestobeavicariousleisuresimply。Theidealthenincludesthecharacteristicswhicharesupposedtoresultfromortogowithalifeofleisureconsistentlyenforced。Theidealacceptedunderthesecircumstancesmaybegatheredfromdescriptionsofbeautifulwomenbypoetsandwritersofthechivalrictimes。Intheconventionalschemeofthosedaysladiesofhighdegreewereconceivedtobeinperpetualtutelage，andtobescrupulouslyexemptfromallusefulwork。Theresultingchivalricorromanticidealofbeautytakescognizancechieflyoftheface，anddwellsonitsdelicacy，andonthedelicacyofthehandsandfeet，theslenderfigure，andespeciallytheslenderwaist。Inthepicturedrepresentationsofthewomenofthattime，andinmodernromanticimitatorsofthechivalricthoughtandfeeling，thewaistisattenuatedtoadegreethatimpliesextremedebility。Thesameidealisstillextantamongaconsiderableportionofthepopulationofmodernindustrialcommunities；butitistobesaidthatithasretaineditsholdmosttenaciouslyinthosemoderncommunitieswhichareleastadvancedinpointofeconomicandcivildevelopment，andwhichshowthemostconsiderablesurvivalsofstatusandofpredatoryinstitutions。
Thatistosay，thechivalricidealisbestpreservedinthoseexistingcommunitieswhicharesubstantiallyleastmodern。
Survivalsofthislackadaisicalorromanticidealoccurfreelyinthetastesofthewell-to-doclassesofContinentalcountries。
Inmoderncommunitieswhichhavereachedthehigherlevelsofindustrialdevelopment，theupperleisureclasshasaccumulatedsogreatamassofwealthastoplaceitswomenaboveallimputationofvulgarlyproductivelabor。Herethestatusofwomenasvicariousconsumersisbeginningtoloseitsplaceinthesectionsofthebodyofthepeople；andasaconsequencetheidealoffemininebeautyisbeginningtochangebackagainfromtheinfirmlydelicate，translucent，andhazardouslyslender，toawomanofthearchaictypethatdoesnotdisownherhandsandfeet，nor，indeed，theothergrossmaterialfactsofherperson。
InthecourseofeconomicdevelopmenttheidealofbeautyamongthepeoplesoftheWesternculturehasshiftedfromthewomanofphysicalpresencetothelady，anditisbeginningtoshiftbackagaintothewoman；andallinobediencetothechangingconditionsofpecuniaryemulation。Theexigenciesofemulationatonetimerequiredlustyslaves；atanothertimetheyrequiredaconspicuousperformanceofvicariousleisureandconsequentlyanobviousdisability；butthesituationisnowbeginningtooutgrowthislastrequirement，since，underthehigherefficiencyofmodernindustry，leisureinwomenispossiblesofardownthescaleofreputabilitythatitwillnolongerserveasadefinitivemarkofthehighestpecuniarygrade。
Apartfromthisgeneralcontrolexercisedbythenormofconspicuouswasteovertheidealoffemininebeauty，thereareoneortwodetailswhichmeritspecificmentionasshowinghowitmayexerciseanextremeconstraintindetailovermen’ssenseofbeautyinwomen。Ithasalreadybeennoticedthatatthestagesofeconomicevolutionatwhichconspicuousleisureismuchregardedasameansofgoodrepute，theidealrequiresdelicateanddiminutivebandsandfeetandaslenderwaist。Thesefeatures，togetherwiththeother，relatedfaultsofstructurethatcommonlygowiththem，gotoshowthatthepersonsoaffectedisincapableofusefuleffortandmustthereforebesupportedinidlenessbyherowner。Sheisuselessandexpensive，andsheisconsequentlyvaluableasevidenceofpecuniarystrength。Itresultsthatatthisculturalstagewomentakethoughttoaltertheirpersons，soastoconformmorenearlytotherequirementsoftheinstructedtasteofthetime；andundertheguidanceofthecanonofpecuniarydecency，themenfindtheresultingartificiallyinducedpathologicalfeaturesattractive。
So，forinstance，theconstrictedwaistwhichhashadsowideandpersistentavogueinthecommunitiesoftheWesternculture，andsoalsothedeformedfootoftheChinese。Bothofthesearemutilationsofunquestionedrepulsivenesstotheuntrainedsense。
Itrequireshabituationtobecomereconciledtothem。Yetthereisnoroomtoquestiontheirattractivenesstomenintowhoseschemeoflifetheyfitashonorificitemssanctionedbytherequirementsofpecuniaryreputability。Theyareitemsofpecuniaryandculturalbeautywhichhavecometododutyaselementsoftheidealofwomanliness。
Theconnectionhereindicatedbetweentheaestheticvalueandtheinvidiouspecuniaryvalueofthingsisofcoursenotpresentintheconsciousnessofthevaluer。Sofarasaperson，informingajudgmentoftaste，takesthoughtandreflectsthattheobjectofbeautyunderconsiderationiswastefulandreputable，andthereforemaylegitimatelybeaccountedbeautiful；
sofarthejudgmentisnotabonafidejudgmentoftasteanddoesnotcomeupforconsiderationinthisconnection。Theconnectionwhichishereinsistedonbetweenthereputabilityandtheapprehendedbeautyofobjectsliesthroughtheeffectwhichthefactofreputabilityhasuponthevaluer’shabitsofthought。Heisinthehabitofformingjudgmentsofvalueofvariouskinds-economic，moral，aesthetic，orreputableconcerningtheobjectswithwhichhehastodo，andhisattitudeofcommendationtowardsagivenobjectonanyothergroundwillaffectthedegreeofhisappreciationoftheobjectwhenhecomestovalueitfortheaestheticpurpose。Thisismoreparticularlytrueasregardsvaluationongroundssocloselyrelatedtotheaestheticgroundasthatofreputability。Thevaluationfortheaestheticpurposeandforthepurposeofreputearenotheldapartasdistinctlyasmightbe。Confusionisespeciallyapttoarisebetweenthesetwokindsofvaluation，becausethevalueofobjectsforreputeisnothabituallydistinguishedinspeechbytheuseofaspecialdescriptiveterm。Theresultisthatthetermsinfamiliarusetodesignatecategoriesorelementsofbeautyareappliedtocoverthisunnamedelementofpecuniarymerit，andthecorrespondingconfusionofideasfollowsbyeasyconsequence。Thedemandsofreputabilityinthiswaycoalesceinthepopularapprehensionwiththedemandsofthesenseofbeauty，andbeautywhichisnotaccompaniedbytheaccreditedmarksofgoodreputeisnotaccepted。Buttherequirementsofpecuniaryreputabilityandthoseofbeautyinthenaivesensedonotinanyappreciabledegreecoincide。Theeliminationfromoursurroundingsofthepecuniarilyunfit，therefore，resultsinamoreorlessthorougheliminationofthatconsiderablerangeofelementsofbeautywhichdonothappentoconformtothepecuniaryrequirement。