第67章
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  WehadnotyetgotaclearideaofthenatureofTalaMungongo。

  AgentlemanofCassangedescribeditasarangeofveryhighmountains,whichitwouldtakefourhourstoclimb;so,thoughtherainandgrasshadwettedusmiserably,andIwassufferingfromanattackoffevergotwhileobservingbynightforthepositionofCassange,IeagerlycommencedtheascentThepathwassteepandslippery;

  deepgorgesappearoneachsideofit,leavingbutanarrowpathalongcertainspursofthesierraforthetraveler;butweaccomplishedtheascentinanhour,andwhenthere,foundwehadjustgotontoatable-landsimilartothatwehadleftbeforeweenteredthegreatQuangovalley。

  WehadcomeamongloftytreesagainOneofthese,bearingafruitaboutthesizeofathirty-twopounder,isnamedMononga-zambi。

  Wetookaglancebacktothisvalley,whichequalsthatoftheMississippiinfertility,andthoughtofthevastmassofmaterialwhichhadbeenscoopedoutandcarriedawayinitsformationThisnaturallyledtoreflectiononthecountlessagesrequiredforthepreviousformationanddepositionofthatsamematerialclayshale,thenoftherocks,whoseabrasionformedTHAT,untilthemindgrewgiddyinattemptingtoascendthestepswhichleadupthroughaportionoftheeternitybeforemanThedifferentepochsofgeologyarelikelandmarksinthatotherwiseshorelessseaOurownepoch,orcreation,isbutanotheraddedtothenumberofthatwonderfulserieswhichpresentsagranddisplayofthemightypowerofGod:

  everystageofprogressintheearthanditshabitantsissuchadisplay。

  SofarfromthissciencehavinganytendencytomakemenundervaluethepowerorloveofGod,itleadstotheprobabilitythattheexhibitionofmercywehaveinthegiftofhisSonmaypossiblynotbetheonlymanifestationofgracewhichhastakenplaceinthecountlessagesduringwhichworksofcreationhavebeengoingon。

  Situatedafewmilesfromtheedgeofthedescent,wefoundthevillageofTalaMungongo,andwerekindlyaccommodatedwithahousetosleepin,whichwasverywelcome,aswewereallbothwetandcold。

  WefoundthatthegreateraltitudeandtheapproachofwinterloweredthetemperaturesomuchthatmanyofmymensufferedseverelyfromcoldsAtthis,asatseveralotherPortuguesestations,theyhavebeenprovidentenoughtoerecttravelers’housesonthesameprincipleaskhansorcaravanseraisoftheEast。

  Theyarebuiltoftheusualwattleanddaub,andhavebenchesofrodsforthewayfarertomakehisbedon;alsochairs,andatable,andalargejarofwaterThesebenches,thoughfarfromluxuriouscouches,werebetterthanthegroundundertherottenfragmentsofmygipsy-tent,forwehadstillshowersoccasionally,andthedewswereveryheavy。

  Icontinuedtousethemforthesakeofthesheltertheyafforded,untilIfoundthattheywerelodgingsalsoforcertaininconvenientbedfellows。

  27THFivehours’ridethroughapleasantcountryofforestandmeadow,likethoseofLonda,broughtustoavillageofBasongo,atribelivinginsubjectiontothePortugueseWecrossedseverallittlestreams,whichwereflowinginthewesterlydirectioninwhichweweremarching,andunitetoformtheQuize,afeederoftheCoanzaTheBasongowereverycivil,asindeedallthetribeswerewhohadbeenconqueredbythePortugueseTheBasongoandBangalaareyetonlypartiallysubdued。

  Thefartherwestwegofromthis,thelessindependentwefindtheblackpopulation,untilwereachthevicinityofLoanda,wherethefreenativesarenearlyidenticalintheirfeelingstowardthegovernmentwiththeslavesButthegovernorsofAngolawiselyacceptthelimitedallegianceandtributerenderedbythemoredistanttribesasbetterthannone。

  Alltheinhabitantsofthisregion,aswellasthoseofLonda,maybecalledtruenegroes,ifthelimitationsformerlymadebeborneinmind。

  Thedarkcolor,thicklips,headselongatedbackwardandupwardandcoveredwithwool,flatnoses,withothernegropeculiarities,aregeneral;but,whilethesecharacteristicsplacetheminthetruenegrofamily,thereaderwouldimbibeawrongideaifhesupposedthatallthesefeaturescombinedareoftenmetwithinoneindividualAllhaveacertainthicknessandprominenceoflip,butmanyaremetwithineveryvillageinwhomthicknessandprojectionarenotmoremarkedthaninEuropeans。

  Allaredark,butthecolorisshadedoffindifferentindividualsfromdeepblacktolightyellowAswegowestward,weobservethelightcolorpredominatingoverthedark,andthenagain,whenwecomewithintheinfluenceofdampfromtheseaair,wefindtheshadedeepenintothegeneralblacknessofthecoastpopulation。

  Theshapeofthehead,withitswoollycrop,thoughgeneral,isnotuniversal。

  Thetribesontheeasternsideofthecontinent,astheCaffres,haveheadsfinelydevelopedandstronglyEuropeanInstancesofthiskindarefrequentlyseen,andafterIbecamesofamiliarwiththedarkcolorastoforgetitinviewingthecountenance,Iwasstruckbythestrongresemblancesomenativesboretocertainofourownnotabilities。

  TheBushmenandHottentotsareexceptionstotheseremarks,forboththeshapeoftheirheadsandgrowthofwoolarepeculiar;thelatter,forinstance,springsfromthescalpintuftswithbarespacesbetween,andwhenthecropisshort,resemblesanumberofblackpepper-cornsstuckontheskin,andveryunlikethethickfrizzlymasseswhichcovertheheadsoftheBalondaandMaraviWitheverydispositiontopayduedeferencetotheopinionsofthosewhohavemadeethnologytheirspecialstudy,IhavefeltmyselfunabletobelievethattheexaggeratedfeaturesusuallyputforthasthoseofthetypicalnegrocharacterizethemajorityofanynationofsouthCentralAfrica。

  ThemonumentsoftheancientEgyptiansseemtometoembodytheidealoftheinhabitantsofLondabetterthanthefiguresofanyworkofethnologyIhavemetwith。

  Passingthroughafine,fertile,andwell-peopledcountrytoSanza,wefoundtheQuizeRiveragaintouchingourpath,andherewehadthepleasureofseeingafieldofwheatgrowingluxuriantlywithoutirrigation。

  Theearswereupwardoffourincheslong,anobjectofgreatcuriositytomycompanions,becausetheyhadtastedmybreadatLinyanti,buthadneverbeforeseenwheatgrowingThissmallfieldwascultivatedbyMrMiland,anagreeablePortuguesemerchantHisgardenwasinteresting,asshowingwhatthelandatthiselevationiscapableofyielding;

  for,besideswheat,wesawEuropeanvegetablesinaflourishingcondition,andweafterwarddiscoveredthatthecoffee-planthaspropagateditselfoncertainspotsofthissamedistrictItmaybeseenontheheightsofTalaMungongo,ornearly300milesfromthewestcoast,whereitwasfirstintroducedbytheJesuitmissionaries。

  WespentSunday,the30thofApril,atNgio,closetothefordoftheQuizeasitcrossesourpathtofallintotheCoanzaThecountrybecomesmoreopen,butisstillabundantlyfertile,withathickcropofgrassbetweentwoandthreefeethighItisalsowellwoodedandwatered。

  VillagesofBasongoaredottedoverthelandscape,andfrequentlyasquarehouseofwattleanddaub,belongingtonativePortuguese,isplacedbesidethemforthepurposesoftradeThepeopleherepossessbothcattleandpigsThedifferentsleeping-placesonourpath,fromeighttotenmilesapart,aremarkedbyaclusterofshedsmadeofsticksandgrassThereisaconstantstreamofpeoplegoingandreturningtoandfromthecoastThegoodsarecarriedonthehead,orononeshoulder,inasortofbasketattachedtotheextremitiesoftwopolesbetweenfiveandsixfeetlong,andcalledMoteteWhenthebasketisplacedonthehead,thepolesprojectforwardhorizontally,andwhenthecarrierwishestoresthimself,heplantsthemonthegroundandtheburdenagainstatree,soheisnotobligedtoliftitupfromthegroundtothelevelofthehead。

  Itstandsagainstthetreeproppedupbythepolesatthatlevel。

  Thecarrierfrequentlyplantsthepolesontheground,andstandsholdingtheburdenuntilhehastakenbreath,thusavoidingthetroubleofplacingtheburdenonthegroundandliftingitupagain。

  Whenacompanyofthesecarriers,orourownparty,arrivesatoneofthesesleeping-places,immediatepossessionistakenofthesheds。

  Thosewhocomelate,andfindalloccupied,mustthenerectothersforthemselves;butthisisnotdifficult,forthereisnolackoflonggrass。

  Nosoonerdoanystrangersappearatthespot,thanthewomenmaybeseenemergingfromtheirvillagesbearingbasketsofmanioc-meal,roots,ground-nuts,yams,bird’s-eyepepper,andgarlicforsale。

  Calico,ofwhichwehadbroughtsomefromCassange,isthechiefmediumofexchangeWefoundthemallcivil,anditwasevident,fromtheamountoftalkingandlaughinginbargaining,thattheladiesenjoyedtheiroccupationTheymustcultivatelargely,inordertobeabletosupplytheconstantsuccessionofstrangers。

  Those,however,neartothegreatlineofroad,purchasealsomuchofthefoodfromthemoredistantvillagesforthesakeofgain。

  Pitsaneandanotherofthemenhadviolentattacksoffever,anditwasnowonder,forthedampnessandevaporationfromthegroundwasexcessiveWhenatanytimeIattemptedtogetanobservationofastar,ifthetroughofmercurywereplacedontheground,somuchmoisturewascondensedontheinsideoftheglassroofoveritthatitwaswithdifficultythereflectionofthestarcouldbeseen。

  Whenthetroughwasplacedonaboxtopreventthemoistureenteringfrombelow,somuchdewwasdepositedontheoutsideoftheroofthatitwassoonnecessary,forthesakeofdistinctvision,towipetheglassThiswouldnothavebeenofgreatconsequence,butashortexposuretothisdewwassosuretobringonafreshfever,thatIwasobligedtogiveupobservationsbynightaltogether。

  TheinsideoftheonlycoveringInowhadwasnotmuchbetter,butundertheblanketoneisnotsoliabletothechillwhichthedewproduces。

  Itwouldhaveaffordedmepleasuretohavecultivatedamoreintimateacquaintancewiththeinhabitantsofthispartofthecountry,butthevertigoproducedbyfrequentfeversmadeitasmuchasIcoulddotostickontheoxandcrawlalonginmiseryIncrossingtheLombe,myoxSinbad,intheindulgenceofhispropensitytostrikeoutanewpathforhimself,plungedoverheadintoadeephole,andsosousedmethatIwasobligedtomoveontodrymyclothing,withoutcallingontheEuropeanswholiveonthebankThisIregretted,forallthePortuguesewereverykind,and,liketheBoersplacedinsimilarcircumstances,feelitaslighttobepassedwithoutawordofsalutationButwewentontoaspotwhereorange-treeshadbeenplantedbythenativesthemselves,andwhereabundanceofthatrefreshingfruitwasexposedforsale。

  OnenteringthedistrictofAmbaca,wefoundthelandscapeenlivenedbytheappearanceofloftymountainsinthedistance,thegrasscomparativelyshort,andthewholecountryatthistimelookinggayandverdantOnourleftwesawcertainrocksofthesamenaturewiththoseofPungoAndongo,andwhichcloselyresembletheStonehengegrouponSalisburyPlain,onlythestonepillarshereareofgiganticsize。

  Thisregionisallwonderfullyfertile,famedforraisingcattle,andallkindsofagriculturalproduce,atacheaprateThesoilcontainssufficientferruginousmatter,toimpartaredtingetonearlythewholeofitItissuppliedwithagreatnumberoflittleflowingstreamswhichuniteintheLucallaThisriverdrainsAmbaca,thenfallsintotheCoanzatothesouthwestatMassangano。

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