第18章
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  Theirabsencewasplausiblyexplained,thenextmorning,bytheyoungGermanfriendwhocameintoseetheMarchesatbreakfast。HesaidHamburghadbeensolongafreerepublicthatthepresenceofalargeimperialgarrisonwasdistastefultothepeople,andasamatteroffacttherewereveryfewsoldiersquarteredthere,whethertheauthoritieschosetoindulgethepopulargrudgeornot。Hewashimselfinajoyfulflutterofspirits,forhehadjustthedaybeforegothisreleasefrommilitaryservice。Hegavethemanotionofwhattheraptureofamanreprievedfromdeathmightbe,andhewasasradiantlyhappyintheillhealthwhichhadgothimhisreleaseasifithadbeenthegreatestblessingofheaven。Hebubbledoverwithsmilingregretsthatheshouldbeleavinghishomeforthefirststageofthejourneywhichhewastotakeinsearchofstrength,justastheyhadcome,andhepressedthemtosayiftherewerenotsomethingthathecoulddoforthem。

  Yes。”saidMrs。March,withapromptnesssurprisingtoherhusband,whocouldthinkofnothing;“telluswhereHeinrichHeinelivedwhenhewasinHamburg。Myhusbandhasalwayshadagreatpassionforhimandwantstolookhimupeverywhere。”

  MarchhadforgottenthatHeineeverlivedinHamburg,andtheyoungmanhadapparentlyneverknownit。Hisfacefell;hewishedtomakeMrs。

  MarchbelievethatitwasonlyHeine’sunclewhohadlivedthere;butshewasfirm;andwhenhehadaskedamongthehotelpeoplehecamebackgladlyowningthathewaswrong,andthatthepoetusedtoliveinKonigstrasse,whichwasverynearby,andwheretheycouldeasilyknowthehousebyhisbustsetinitsfront。TheportierandtheheadwaitersharedhisecstasyinsoeasilyobligingthefriendlyAmericanpair,andjoinedhiminminutelyinstructingthedriverwhentheyshutthemintotheircarriage。

  TheydidnotknowthathiswasalmosttheonlylaughingfacetheyshouldseeintheseriousGermanEmpire;justastheydidnotknowthatitrainedthereeveryday。Astheydroveoffinthegraydrizzlewiththeunfoundedhopethatsoonerorlatertheweatherwouldbefine,theybadetheirdriverbeveryslowintakingthemthroughKonigstrasse,sothatheshouldbynomeansmissHeine’sdwelling,andhedulystoppedinfrontofahousebearingthepromisedbust。Theydismountedinordertorevereitmoreattheirease,butthebustproved,byanironybittererthanthesick,heart-breaking,brilliantJewcouldhaveimaginedinhiscruelestmoment,tobethatoftheGermanMilton,therespectablepoetKlopstock,whomHeineabhorredandmockedsopitilessly。

  Infactitwasherethatthegood,much-forgottenKlopstockdwelt,whenhecamehometolivewithacomfortablepensionfromtheDanishgovernment;andthepilgrimstothemistakenshrinewentaskingaboutamongtheneighborsinKonigstrasse,forsomemannerofhousewhereHeinemighthavelived;theywouldhavebeenwillingtoacceptaflat,oranysortoftwo-pairback。Theneighborsweresomewhatmovedbytheanxietyofthestrangers;buttheywerenotsomuchmovedasneighborsinItalywouldhavebeen。Therevasnoeagerandsmilingsympathyinthelittlecrowdthatgatheredtoseewhatwasgoingon;theywerepatientofquestionandkindintheirhelplessresponse,buttheywerenotgay。

  ToamantheyhadnotheardofHeine;eventheownerofasausageandblood-puddingshopacrossthewayhadnotheardofhim;theclerkofastationer-and-bookseller’snexttothebutcher’shadheardofhim,buthehadneverheardthathelivedinKonigstrasse;heneverhadheardwherehelivedinHamburg。

  Thepilgrimstothefraudulentshrinegotbackintotheircarriage,anddrovesadlyaway,instructingtheirdriverwiththerigiditywhichtheirlimitedGermanfavored,nottoletanyhousewithabustinitsfrontescapehim。Hepromised,andtookhiscourseoutthroughKonigstrasse,andsuddenlytheyfoundthemselvesinaworldofsucheldandquaintnessthattheyforgotHeineascompletelyasanyofhiscountrymenhaddone。

  Theywereinsteepandnarrowstreets,thatcrookedandturnedwithnoapparentpurposeofleadinganywhere,amonghousesthatlookeddownuponthemwithanastonishedstarefromtheleaden-sashedwindowsoftheirtimber-lacedgables。Thefacadeswiththeirlatticesstretchinginbandsquiteacrossthem,andwiththeirsteeproofsclimbinghighinsuccessionsofblinkingdormers,weremorerichlymediaevalthananythingthetravellershadeverdreamtofbefore,andtheyfeastedthemselvesupontheunimaginedpicturesquenesswithaleisurelyminutenesswhichbroughtresponsivegazerseverywheretothewindows;windowsweresetajar;shopdoorsweredarkenedbycuriousfiguresfromwithin,andthetrafficofthetortuousalleyswasinterruptedbytheirprogress。Theycouldnothavesaidwhichdelightedthemmore——thehousesintheimmediateforeground,orthesharphighgablesintheperspectivesandthebackground;butallwerelikethepaintedscenesofthestage,andtheyhadapleasantdifficultyinrealizingthattheywerenotpersonsinsomeromanticdrama。

  TheillusionremainedwiththemandqualifiedtheimpressionwhichHamburgmadebyhermuch-trolleyedBostonianeffect;bythedecorousactivityandParisianarchitectureofherbusinessstreets;bytheturmoilofherquays,andtheinnumerablemastsandchimneysofhershipping。Attheheartofallwasthatquaintness,thatpicturesquenessofthepast,whichembodiedthespiritoftheoldHanseaticcity,andseemedtheexpressionofthehome-sideofherhistory。Thesenseofthisgainedstrengthfromsuchslightstudyofherannalsastheyafterwardsmade,andassistedthedigestionofsomemorselsoftoughstatistics。

  IntheshadowofthoseGothichousesthefactthatHamburgwasoneofthegreatestcoffeemartsandmoneymartsoftheworldhadaromanticglamour;andthefactthatinthefouryearsfrom1870till1874aquarterofamillionemigrantssailedonhershipsfortheUnitedStatesseemedtostretchanerveofkindredfeelingfromthosemediaevalstreetsthroughthewholeshabbylengthofThirdAvenue。

  Itwasperhapsinthisglamour,orthisfeelingofcommercialsolidarity,thatMarchwenttohavealookattheHamburgBourse,inthebeautifulnewRathhaus。Itwasnotundergoingrepairs,itwastoonewforthat;

  butitwasinconstruction,andsoitfulfilledthefunctionofapublicedifice,inwithholdingitsentireinterestfromthestranger。HecouldnotgetintotheSenateChamber;buttheBoursewasfreetohim,andwhenhesteppedwithin,itroseathimwitharoarofvoicesandoffeetliketheNewYorkStockExchange。Thespectaclewasnotsofrantic;peoplewerenotshakingtheirfistsorfingersineachother’snoses;buttheywereallwildinthetamerGermanway,andhewasgladtomountfromtheBoursetothepoorlittleartgalleryupstairs,andtoshutoutitsclamor。Hewasnotsogladwhenhelookedroundonthese,hisfirst,examplesofmodernGermanart。Thecustodianledhimgentlyaboutandsaidwhichthingswereforsale,anditmadehisheartachetoseehowbadtheywere,andtothinkthat,badastheywere,hecouldnotbuyanyofthem。

  InthestartfromCuxhaventhepassengershadtheirresponsibleeaseofpeopleticketedthrough,andthesteamshipcompanyhadstillthechargeoftheirbaggage。ButwhentheMarchesleftHamburgforLeipsicwheretheyhaddecidedtobreakthelongpulltoCarlsbad,alltheanxietiesofEuropeantravel,dimlyrememberedfromformerEuropeandays,offeredthemselvesforrecognition。Aportervanishedwiththeirhand-baggagebeforetheycouldnoteanytraitinhimforidentification;otherportersmadeawaywiththeirtrunks;andtheinterpreterwhohelpedMarchbuyhistickets,withavocabularyofstrictlyrailroadEnglish,hadtohelphimfindthepiecesinthebaggage-room,curiouslyestrangedinamountainofalienboxes。Oneofficialweighedthem;anotherobligedhimtopayasmuchinfreightasforathirdpassenger,andgavehimanillegiblescrapofpaperwhichrecordedtheirnumberanddestination。Theinterpreterandtheporterstooktheirfeeswithaprofessionaleffectofdissatisfaction,andhewenttowaitwithhiswifeamidstthesmokingandeatinganddrinkingintherestaurant。Theyburstthroughwiththerestwhenthedoorswereopenedtothetrain,andfollowedaglimpseoftheporterwiththeirhand-bags,asherandowntheplatform,stillbentuponescapingthem,andbroughthimtobayatlastinacarwherehehadgotverygoodseatsforthem,andsankintotheirplaces,hotandhumiliatedbytheirneedlesstumult。

  Astheycooled,theyrecoveredtheirself-respect,andrenewedayouthfuljoyinsomeofthelong-estrangedfacts。Theroadwasrougherthantheroadsathome;butformuchlessmoneytheyhadthecomfort,withouttheunavailingsplendor,ofaPullmanintheirsecond-classcarriage。Mrs。

  MarchhadexpectedtobeusedwiththeseverityontheimperialrailroadswhichshehadfailedtoexperiencefromthemilitaryontheHamburgsidewalks,butnothingcouldbekindlierthanthewholemanagementtowardher。Herfellow-travellerswerenotlavishoftheirrights,asAmericansare;whattheygot,thattheykept;andintherunfromHamburgtoLeipsicshehadseveraloccasionstoobservethatnoGerman,howeveryoungorrobust,dreamsofofferingabetterplace,ifhehasone,toaladyingracetohersexorage;iftheygotintoacarriagetoolatetosecureaforward-lookingseat,sherodebackwardtotheendofthatstage。Butiftheyappealedtotheirfellow-travellersforinformationaboutchanges,orstops,oranyofthelittlefactsthattheywishedtomakesureof,theywereenlightenedpastpossibilityoferror。Atthepointwheretheymighthavegonewrongtheexplanationswererenewedwithathoughtfulnesswhichshowedthattheiranxietieshadnotbeenforgotten。Shesaidshecouldnotseehowanypeoplecouldbebothsoselfishandsosweet,andherhusbandseizedtheadvantageofsayingsomethingoffensive:

  “YouwomenaresopamperedinAmericathatyouareastonishedwhenyouaretreatedinEuropelikethemerehumanbeingsyouare。”

  Sheansweredwithunexpectedreasonableness:

  “Yes,there’ssomethinginthat;butwhentheGermanshavetaughtushowdespicableweareaswomen,whydotheytreatussowellashumanbeings?”

  Thiswasatteno’clock,aftershehadriddenbackwardalongway,andatlast,withinanhourofLeipsic,hadgotaseatconfrontinghim。Thedarknesshadnowhiddenthelandscape,buttheimpressionofitsfewsimpleelementslingeredpleasantlyintheirsense:longlevels,denselywoodedwiththeprecise,severelydisciplinedGermanforests,andcheckeredwithfieldsofgrainandgrass,soakingunderthethinrainthatfromtimetotimevariedthethinsunshine。

  Thevillagesandpeasants’cottageswerenotablyfew;buttherewashereandthereaclassicoragothicvilla,which,atonepoint,anEnglish-

  speakingyoungladyturnedfromherTauchnitznoveltoexplainastheseatofsomecountrygentleman;thelandwasinlargeholdings,andthisaccountedforthesparsityofvillagesandcottages。

  ShethensaidthatshewasaGermanteacherofEnglish,inHamburg,andwasgoinghometoPotsdamforavisit。SheseemedlikeaGermangirloutof’TheInitials’,andinreturnforthisfavorMrs。MarchtriedtoinvestherselfwithsomeromanticinterestasanAmerican。Shefailedtomovethegirl’sfancy,evenaftershehadbestowedonheranimmensebunchofroseswhichtheyoungGermanfriendinHamburghadsenttothemjustbeforetheylefttheirhotel。Shefailed,later,onthesamegroundwiththepleasant-lookingEnglishwomanwhogotintotheircarriageatMagdeburg,andtalkedoverthe’LondonIllustratedNews’withanEnglish-

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