sherode，however，astride，andwithoutshoesorstockings。Iwassurprisedatthetotalwantofprideshownbyherandherbrother。Theybroughtfoodwiththem，butatallourmealssatwatchingMr。Kingandmyselfwhilsteating，tillwewerefairlyshamedintofeedingthewholeparty。Thenightwascloudless；andwhilelyinginourbeds，weenjoyedthesightanditisahighenjoymentofthemultitudeofstarswhichilluminedthedarknessoftheforest。
January23rd——Weroseearlyinthemorning，andreachedtheprettyquiettownofCastrobytwoo’clock。Theoldgovernorhaddiedsinceourlastvisit，andaChilenowasactinginhisplace。WehadaletterofintroductiontoDonPedro，whomwefoundexceedinglyhospitableandkind，andmoredisinterestedthanisusualonthissideofthecontinent。ThenextdayDonPedroprocuredusfreshhorses，andofferedtoaccompanyushimself。Weproceededtothesouth——generallyfollowingthecoast，andpassingthroughseveralhamlets，eachwithitslargebarn-likechapelbuiltofwood。AtVilipilli，DonPedroaskedthecommandanttogiveusaguidetoCucao。Theoldgentlemanofferedtocomehimself；butforalongtimenothingwouldpersuadehimthattwoEnglishmenreallywishedtogotosuchanout-of-the-wayplaceasCucao。
Wewerethusaccompaniedbythetwogreatestaristocratsinthecountry，aswasplainlytobeseeninthemannerofallthepoorerIndianstowardsthem。AtChonchiwestruckacrosstheisland，followingintricatewindingpaths，sometimespassingthroughmagnificentforests，andsometimesthroughprettyclearedspots，aboundingwithcornandpotatocrops。Thisundulatingwoodycountry，partiallycultivated，remindedmeofthewilderpartsofEngland，andthereforehadtomyeyeamostfascinatingaspect。AtVilinco，whichissituatedonthebordersofthelakeofCucao，onlyafewfieldswerecleared；andalltheinhabitantsappearedtobeIndians。Thislakeistwelvemileslong，andrunsinaneastandwestdirection。Fromlocalcircumstances，thesea-breezeblowsveryregularlyduringtheday，andduringthenightitfallscalm：thishasgivenrisetostrangeexaggerations，forthephenomenon，asdescribedtousatS。Carlos，wasquiteaprodigy。
TheroadtoCucaowassoverybadthatwedeterminedtoembarkina_periagua_。Thecommandant，inthemostauthoritativemanner，orderedsixIndianstogetreadytopullusover，withoutdeigningtotellthemwhethertheywouldbepaid。Theperiaguaisastrangeroughboat，butthecrewwerestillstranger：Idoubtifsixuglierlittlemenevergotintoaboattogether。Theypulled，however，verywellandcheerfully。Thestroke-oarsmangabbledIndian，andutteredstrangecries，muchafterthefashionofapig-driverdrivinghispigs。Westartedwithalightbreezeagainstus，butyetreachedtheCapelladeCucaobeforeitwaslate。Thecountryoneachsideofthelakewasoneunbrokenforest。Inthesameperiaguawithus，acowwasembarked。Togetsolargeananimalintoasmallboatappearsatfirstadifficulty，buttheIndiansmanageditinaminute。Theybroughtthecowalongsidetheboat，whichwasheeledtowardsher；thenplacingtwooarsunderherbelly，withtheirendsrestingonthegunwale，bytheaidoftheseleverstheyfairlytumbledthepoorbeastheelsoverheadintothebottomoftheboat，andthenlashedherdownwithropes。AtCucaowefoundanuninhabitedhovelwhichistheresidenceofthepadrewhenhepaysthisCapellaavisit，where，lightingafire，wecookedoursupper，andwereverycomfortable。
ThedistrictofCucaoistheonlyinhabitedpartonthewholewestcoastofChiloe。ItcontainsaboutthirtyorfortyIndianfamilies，whoarescatteredalongfourorfivemilesoftheshore。TheyareverymuchsecludedfromtherestofChiloe，andhavescarcelyanysortofcommerce，exceptsometimesinalittleoil，whichtheygetfromseal-blubber。Theyaretolerablydressedinclothesoftheirownmanufacture，andtheyhaveplentytoeat。Theyseemed，however，discontented，yethumbletoadegreewhichitwasquitepainfultowitness。Thesefeelingsare，Ithink，chieflytobeattributedtotheharshandauthoritativemannerinwhichtheyaretreatedbytheirrulers。Ourcompanions，althoughsoveryciviltous，behavedtothepoorIndiansasiftheyhadbeenslaves，ratherthanfreemen。Theyorderedprovisionsandtheuseoftheirhorses，withoutevercondescendingtosayhowmuch，orindeedwhethertheownersshouldbepaidatall。Inthemorning，beingleftalonewiththesepoorpeople，wesooningratiatedourselvesbypresentsofcigarsandmate。Alumpofwhitesugarwasdividedbetweenallpresent，andtastedwiththegreatestcuriosity。TheIndiansendedalltheircomplaintsbysaying，“AnditisonlybecausewearepoorIndians，andknownothing；butitwasnotsowhenwehadaKing。”
Thenextdayafterbreakfast，werodeafewmilesnorthwardtoPuntaHuantamo。Theroadlayalongaverybroadbeach，onwhich，evenaftersomanyfinedays，aterriblesurfwasbreaking。Iwasassuredthatafteraheavygale，theroarcanbeheardatnightevenatCastro，adistanceofnolessthantwenty-onesea-milesacrossahillyandwoodedcountry。
Wehadsomedifficultyinreachingthepoint，owingtotheintolerablybadpaths；foreverywhereintheshadethegroundsoonbecomesaperfectquagmire。Thepointitselfisaboldrockyhill。Itiscoveredbyaplantallied，Ibelieve，toBromelia，andcalledbytheinhabitantsChepones。
Inscramblingthroughthebeds，ourhandswereverymuchscratched。IwasamusedbyobservingtheprecautionourIndianguidetook，inturninguphistrousers，thinkingthattheyweremoredelicatethanhisownhardskin。
Thisplantbearsafruit，inshapelikeanartichoke，inwhichanumberofseed-vesselsarepacked：thesecontainapleasantsweetpulp，heremuchesteemed。IsawatLow’sHarbourtheChilotansmakingchichi，orcider，withthisfruit：sotrueisit，asHumboldtremarks，thatalmosteverywheremanfindsmeansofpreparingsomekindofbeveragefromthevegetablekingdom。
Thesavages，however，ofTierradelFuego，andIbelieveofAustralia，havenotadvancedthusfarinthearts。
ThecoasttothenorthofPuntaHuantamoisexceedinglyruggedandbroken，andisfrontedbymanybreakers，onwhichtheseaiseternallyroaring。
Mr。Kingandmyselfwereanxioustoreturn，ifithadbeenpossible，onfootalongthiscoast；buteventheIndianssaiditwasquiteimpracticable。
WeweretoldthatmenhavecrossedbystrikingdirectlythroughthewoodsfromCucaotoS。Carlos，butneverbythecoast。Ontheseexpeditions，theIndianscarrywiththemonlyroastedcorn，andofthistheyeatsparinglytwiceaday。
26th——Re-embarkingintheperiagua，wereturnedacrossthelake，andthenmountedourhorses。ThewholeofChiloetookadvantageofthisweekofunusuallyfineweather，toclearthegroundbyburning。Ineverydirectionvolumesofsmokewerecurlingupwards。Althoughtheinhabitantsweresoassiduousinsettingfiretoeverypartofthewood，yetIdidnotseeasinglefirewhichtheyhadsucceededinmakingextensive。Wedinedwithourfriendthecommandant，anddidnotreachCastrotillafterdark。Thenextmorningwestartedveryearly。Afterhavingriddenforsometime，weobtainedfromthebrowofasteephillanextensiveviewanditisararethingonthisroadofthegreatforest。Overthehorizonoftrees，thevolcanoofCorcovado，andthegreatflat-toppedonetothenorth，stoodoutinproudpre-eminence：scarcelyanotherpeakinthelongrangeshoweditssnowysummit。IhopeitwillbelongbeforeIforgetthisfarewellviewofthemagnificentCordillerafrontingChiloe。Atnightwebivouackedunderacloudlesssky，andthenextmorningreachedS。Carlos。
Wearrivedontherightday，forbeforeeveningheavyraincommenced。
February4th——SailedfromChiloe。DuringthelastweekImadeseveralshortexcursions。Onewastoexamineagreatbedofnow-existingshells，elevated350feetabovethelevelofthesea：fromamongtheseshells，largeforest-treesweregrowing。AnotherridewastoP。Huechucucuy。I
hadwithmeaguidewhoknewthecountryfartoowell；forhewouldpertinaciouslytellmeendlessIndiannamesforeverylittlepoint，rivulet，andcreek。
InthesamemannerasinTierradelFuego，theIndianlanguageappearssingularlywelladaptedforattachingnamestothemosttrivialfeaturesoftheland。IbelieveeveryonewasgladtosayfarewelltoChiloe；yetifwecouldforgetthegloomandceaselessrainofwinter，Chiloemightpassforacharmingisland。Thereisalsosomethingveryattractiveinthesimplicityandhumblepolitenessofthepoorinhabitants。
Westeerednorthwardalongshore，butowingtothickweatherdidnotreachValdiviatillthenightofthe8th。Thenextmorningtheboatproceededtothetown，whichisdistantabouttenmiles。Wefollowedthecourseoftheriver，occasionallypassingafewhovels，andpatchesofgroundclearedoutoftheotherwiseunbrokenforest；andsometimesmeetingacanoewithanIndianfamily。Thetownissituatedonthelowbanksofthestream，andissocompletelyburiedinawoodofapple-treesthatthestreetsaremerelypathsinanorchardIhaveneverseenanycountry，whereapple-treesappearedtothrivesowellasinthisdamppartofSouthAmerica：onthebordersoftheroadsthereweremanyyoungtreesevidentlyself-grown。
InChiloetheinhabitantspossessamarvellouslyshortmethodofmakinganorchard。Atthelowerpartofalmosteverybranch，small，conical，brown，wrinkledpointsproject：thesearealwaysreadytochangeintoroots，asmaysometimesbeseen，whereanymudhasbeenaccidentallysplashedagainstthetree。Abranchasthickasaman’sthighischosenintheearlyspring，andiscutoffjustbeneathagroupofthesepoints，allthesmallerbranchesareloppedoff，anditisthenplacedabouttwofeetdeepintheground。
Duringtheensuingsummerthestumpthrowsoutlongshoots，andsometimesevenbearsfruit：Iwasshownonewhichhadproducedasmanyastwenty-threeapples，butthiswasthoughtveryunusual。InthethirdseasonthestumpischangedasIhavemyselfseenintoawell-woodedtree，loadedwithfruit。AnoldmannearValdiviaillustratedhismotto，“Necesidadeslamadredelinvencion。”bygivinganaccountoftheseveralusefulthingshemanufacturedfromhisapples。Aftermakingcider，andlikewisewine，heextractedfromtherefuseawhiteandfinelyflavouredspirit；byanotherprocessheprocuredasweettreacle，or，ashecalledit，honey。Hischildrenandpigsseemedalmosttolive，duringthisseasonoftheyear，inhisorchard。
February11th——Isetoutwithaguideonashortride，inwhich，however，Imanagedtoseesingularlylittle，eitherofthegeologyofthecountryorofitsinhabitants。ThereisnotmuchclearedlandnearValdivia：
aftercrossingariveratthedistanceofafewmiles，weenteredtheforest，andthenpassedonlyonemiserablehovel，beforereachingoursleeping-placeforthenight。Theshortdifferenceinlatitude，of150miles，hasgivenanewaspecttotheforestcomparedwiththatofChiloe。Thisisowingtoaslightlydifferentproportioninthekindsoftrees。Theevergreensdonotappeartobequitesonumerous，andtheforestinconsequencehasabrightertint。AsinChiloe，thelowerpartsaremattedtogetherbycanes：
herealsoanotherkindresemblingthebambooofBrazilandabouttwentyfeetinheightgrowsinclusters，andornamentsthebanksofsomeofthestreamsinaveryprettymanner。ItiswiththisplantthattheIndiansmaketheirchuzos，orlongtaperingspears。Ourresting-housewassodirtythatIpreferredsleepingoutside：onthesejourneysthefirstnightisgenerallyveryuncomfortable，becauseoneisnotaccustomedtotheticklingandbitingofthefleas。Iamsure，inthemorning，therewasnotaspaceonmylegsthesizeofashillingwhichhadnotitslittleredmarkwherethefleahadfeasted。
12th——Wecontinuedtoridethroughtheunclearedforest；onlyoccasionallymeetinganIndianonhorseback，oratroopoffinemulesbringingalerce-planksandcornfromthesouthernplains。Intheafternoononeofthehorsesknockedup：wewerethenonabrowofahill，whichcommandedafineviewoftheLlanos。Theviewoftheseopenplainswasveryrefreshing，afterbeinghemmedinandburiedinthewildernessoftrees。Theuniformityofaforestsoonbecomesverywearisome。Thiswestcoastmakesmerememberwithpleasurethefree，unboundedplainsofPatagonia；yet，withthetruespiritofcontradiction，Icannotforgethowsublimeisthesilenceoftheforest。TheLlanosarethemostfertileandthicklypeopledpartsofthecountry，astheypossesstheimmenseadvantageofbeingnearlyfreefromtrees。Beforeleavingtheforestwecrossedsomeflatlittlelawns，aroundwhichsingletreesstood，asinanEnglishpark：Ihaveoftennoticedwithsurprise，inwoodedundulatorydistricts，thatthequitelevelpartshavebeendestituteoftrees。Onaccountofthetiredhorse，IdeterminedtostopattheMissionofCudico，tothefriarofwhichIhadaletterofintroduction。CudicoisanintermediatedistrictbetweentheforestandtheLlanos。Thereareagoodmanycottages，withpatchesofcornandpotatoes，nearlyallbelongingtoIndians。ThetribesdependentonValdiviaare“reducidosycristianos。”TheIndiansfarthernorthward，aboutAraucoandImperial，arestillverywild，andnotconverted；buttheyhaveallmuchintercoursewiththeSpaniards。ThepadresaidthattheChristianIndiansdidnotmuchlikecomingtomass，butthatotherwisetheyshowedrespectforreligion。Thegreatestdifficultyisinmakingthemobservetheceremoniesofmarriage。ThewildIndianstakeasmanywivesastheycansupport，andacaciquewillsometimeshavemorethanten：onenteringhishouse，thenumbermaybetoldbythatoftheseparatefires。Eachwifelivesaweekinturnwiththecacique；butallareemployedinweavingponchos，etc。，forhisprofit。Tobethewifeofacacique，isanhonourmuchsoughtafterbytheIndianwomen。