第25章
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  InourcoursedowntheParana,Iobservedonlythreeotherbirds,whosehabitsareworthmentioning。OneisasmallkingfisherCeryleAmericana;

  ithasalongertailthantheEuropeanspecies,andhencedoesnotsitinsostiffanduprightaposition。Itsflightalso,insteadofbeingdirectandrapid,likethecourseofanarrow,isweakandundulatory,asamongthesoft-billedbirds。Ituttersalownote,liketheclickingtogetheroftwosmallstones。AsmallgreenparrotConurusmurinus,withagreybreast,appearstopreferthetalltreesontheislandstoanyothersituationforitsbuilding-place。Anumberofnestsareplacedsoclosetogetherastoformonegreatmassofsticks。Theseparrotsalwaysliveinflocks,andcommitgreatravagesonthecorn-fields。Iwastold,thatnearColonia2500werekilledinthecourseofoneyear。Abirdwithaforkedtail,terminatedbytwolongfeathersTyrannussavana,andnamedbytheSpaniardsscissor-tail,isverycommonnearBuenosAyres:itcommonlysitsonabranchofthe_ombu_tree,nearahouse,andthencetakesashortflightinpursuitofinsects,andreturnstothesamespot。Whenonthewingitpresentsinitsmannerofflightandgeneralappearanceacaricature-likenessofthecommonswallow。Ithasthepowerofturningveryshortlyintheair,andinsodoingopensandshutsitstail,sometimesinahorizontalorlateralandsometimesinaverticaldirection,justlikeapairofscissors。

  October16th——SomeleaguesbelowRozario,thewesternshoreoftheParanaisboundedbyperpendicularcliffs,whichextendinalonglinetobelowSanNicolas;henceitmoreresemblesasea-coastthanthatofafresh-waterriver。ItisagreatdrawbacktothesceneryoftheParana,that,fromthesoftnatureofitsbanks,thewaterisverymuddy。TheUruguay,flowingthroughagraniticcountry,ismuchclearer;andwherethetwochannelsuniteattheheadofthePlata,thewatersmayforalongdistancebedistinguishedbytheirblackandredcolours。Intheevening,thewindbeingnotquitefair,asusualweimmediatelymoored,andthenextday,asitblewratherfreshly,thoughwithafavouringcurrent,themasterwasmuchtooindolenttothinkofstarting。AtBajada,hewasdescribedtomeas“hombremuyaflicto“——amanalwaysmiserabletogeton;butcertainlyheborealldelayswithadmirableresignation。HewasanoldSpaniard,andhadbeenmanyyearsinthiscountry。HeprofessedagreatlikingtotheEnglish,butstoutlymaintainedthatthebattleofTrafalgarwasmerelywonbytheSpanishcaptainshavingbeenallboughtover;andthattheonlyreallygallantactiononeithersidewasperformedbytheSpanishadmiral。Itstruckmeasrathercharacteristic,thatthismanshouldpreferhiscountrymenbeingthoughttheworstoftraitors,ratherthanunskilfulorcowardly。

  18thand19th——Wecontinuedslowlytosaildownthenoblestream:

  thecurrenthelpedusbutlittle。Wemet,duringourdescent,veryfewvessels。Oneofthebestgiftsofnature,insograndachannelofcommunication,seemsherewilfullythrownaway——ariverinwhichshipsmightnavigatefromatemperatecountry,assurprisinglyabundantincertainproductionsasdestituteofothers,toanotherpossessingatropicalclimate,andasoilwhich,accordingtothebestofjudges,M。Bonpland,isperhapsunequalledinfertilityinanypartoftheworld。HowdifferentwouldhavebeentheaspectofthisriverifEnglishcolonistshadbygoodfortunefirstsailedupthePlata!Whatnobletownswouldnowhaveoccupieditsshores!TillthedeathofFrancia,theDictatorofParaguay,thesetwocountriesmustremaindistinct,asifplacedonoppositesidesoftheglobe。Andwhentheoldbloody-mindedtyrantisgonetohislongaccount,Paraguaywillbetornbyrevolutions,violentinproportiontothepreviousunnaturalcalm。Thatcountrywillhavetolearn,likeeveryotherSouthAmericanstate,thatarepubliccannotsucceedtillitcontainsacertainbodyofmenimbuedwiththeprinciplesofjusticeandhonour。

  October20th——BeingarrivedatthemouthoftheParana,andasI

  wasveryanxioustoreachBuenosAyres,IwentonshoreatLasConchas,withtheintentionofridingthere。Uponlanding,IfoundtomygreatsurprisethatIwastoacertaindegreeaprisoner。Aviolentrevolutionhavingbrokenout,alltheportswerelaidunderanembargo。Icouldnotreturntomyvessel,andasforgoingbylandtothecity,itwasoutofthequestion。

  Afteralongconversationwiththecommandant,IobtainedpermissiontogothenextdaytoGeneralRolor,whocommandedadivisionoftherebelsonthissidethecapital。InthemorningIrodetotheencampment。Thegeneral,officers,andsoldiers,allappeared,andIbelievereallywere,greatvillains。Thegeneral,theveryeveningbeforeheleftthecity,voluntarilywenttotheGovernor,andwithhishandtohisheart,pledgedhiswordofhonourthatheatleastwouldremainfaithfultothelast。

  Thegeneraltoldmethatthecitywasinastateofcloseblockade,andthatallhecoulddowastogivemeapassporttothecommander-in-chiefoftherebelsatQuilmes。Wehadthereforetotakeagreatsweeproundthecity,anditwaswithmuchdifficultythatweprocuredhorses。Myreceptionattheencampmentwasquitecivil,butIwastolditwasimpossiblethatIcouldbeallowedtoenterthecity。Iwasveryanxiousaboutthis,asIanticipatedtheBeagle’sdeparturefromtheRioPlataearlierthanittookplace。Havingmentioned,however,GeneralRosas’sobligingkindnesstomewhenattheColorado,magicitselfcouldnothavealteredcircumstancesquickerthandidthisconversation。Iwasinstantlytoldthatthoughtheycouldnotgivemeapassport,ifIchosetoleavemyguideandhorses,Imightpasstheirsentinels。Iwastoogladtoacceptofthis,andanofficerwassentwithmetogivedirectionsthatIshouldnotbestoppedatthebridge。Theroadforthespaceofaleaguewasquitedeserted。I

  metonepartyofsoldiers,whoweresatisfiedbygravelylookingatanoldpassport:andatlengthIwasnotalittlepleasedtofindmyselfwithinthecity。

  Thisrevolutionwassupportedbyscarcelyanypretextofgrievances:

  butinastatewhich,inthecourseofninemonthsfromFebruarytoOctober,1820,underwentfifteenchangesinitsgovernment——eachgovernor,accordingtotheconstitution,beingelectedforthreeyears——itwouldbeveryunreasonabletoaskforpretexts。Inthiscase,apartyofmen——who,beingattachedtoRosas,weredisgustedwiththegovernorBalcarce——tothenumberofseventyleftthecity,andwiththecryofRosasthewholecountrytookarms。Thecitywasthenblockaded,noprovisions,cattleorhorses,wereallowedtoenter;besidesthis,therewasonlyalittleskirmishing,andafewmendailykilled。Theoutsidepartywellknewthatbystoppingthesupplyofmeattheywouldcertainlybevictorious。GeneralRosascouldnothaveknownofthisrising;butitappearstobequiteconsonantwiththeplansofhisparty。Ayearagohewaselectedgovernor,butherefusedit,unlesstheSalawouldalsoconferonhimextraordinarypowers。Thiswasrefused,andsincethenhispartyhaveshownthatnoothergovernorcankeephisplace。ThewarfareonbothsideswasavowedlyprotractedtillitwaspossibletohearfromRosas。AnotearrivedafewdaysafterIleftBuenosAyres,whichstatedthattheGeneraldisapprovedofpeacehavingbeenbroken,butthathethoughttheoutsidepartyhadjusticeontheirside。Onthebarereceptionofthis,theGovernor,ministers,andpartofthemilitary,tothenumberofsomehundreds,fledfromthecity。Therebelsentered,electedanewgovernor,andwerepaidfortheirservicestothenumberof5500men。Fromtheseproceedings,itwasclearthatRosasultimatelywouldbecomethedictator:tothetermking,thepeopleinthis,asinotherrepublics,haveaparticulardislike。SinceleavingSouthAmerica,wehaveheardthatRosashasbeenelected,withpowersandforatimealtogetheropposedtotheconstitutionalprinciplesoftherepublic。[1]ThebizcachaLagostomustrichodactylussomewhatresemblesalargerabbit,butwithbiggergnawingteethandalongtail;

  ithas,however,onlythreetoesbehind,liketheagouti。DuringthelastthreeorfouryearstheskinsoftheseanimalshavebeensenttoEnglandforthesakeofthefur。

  JournalofAsiaticSoc。,vol。v。p。363。

  IneedhardlystateherethatthereisgoodevidenceagainstanyhorselivinginAmericaatthetimeofColumbus。Cuvier。OssemensFossils,tom。i。p。

  ThisisthegeographicaldivisionfollowedbyLichtenstein,Swainson,Erichson,andRichardson。ThesectionfromVeraCruztoAcapulco,givenbyHumboldtinthePolit。EssayonKingdomofN。

  SpainwillshowhowimmenseabarriertheMexicantable-landforms。Dr。

  Richardson,inhisadmirableReportontheZoologyofN。AmericareadbeforetheBrit。Assoc。1836p。157,talkingoftheidentificationofaMexicananimalwiththeSynetheresprehensilis,says,“Wedonotknowwithwhatpropriety,butifcorrect,itis,ifnotasolitaryinstance,atleastverynearlyso,ofarodentanimalbeingcommontoNorthandSouthAmerica。”

  [6]SeeDr。Richardson’sReport,p。157;alsoL’Institut,1837,p。253。CuviersaysthekinkajouisfoundinthelargerAntilles,butthisisdoubtful。M。GervaisstatesthattheDidelphiscrancrivoraisfoundthere。ItiscertainthattheWestIndiespossesssomemammiferspeculiartothemselves。AtoothofamastadonhasbeenbroughtfromBahama;

  Edin。NewPhil。Journ。,1826,p。395。

  SeetheadmirableAppendixbyDr。BucklandtoBeechey’sVoyage;alsothewritingsofChamissoinKotzebue’sVoyage。

  InCaptainOwen’sSurveyingVoyagevol。ii。

  p。274thereisacuriousaccountoftheeffectsofadroughtontheelephants,atBenguelawestcoastofAfrica。“Anumberoftheseanimalshadsometimesinceenteredthetown,inabody,topossessthemselvesofthewells,notbeingabletoprocureanywaterinthecountry。Theinhabitantsmustered,whenadesperateconflictensued,whichterminatedintheultimatediscomfitureoftheinvaders,butnotuntiltheyhadkilledoneman,andwoundedseveralothers。”Thetownissaidtohaveapopulationofnearlythreethousand!

  Dr。Malcolmsoninformsmethat,duringagreatdroughtinIndia,thewildanimalsenteredthetentsofsometroopsatEllore,andthataharedrankoutofavesselheldbytheadjutantoftheregiment。

  Thesedroughtstoacertaindegreeseemtobealmostperiodical;Iwastoldthedatesofseveralothers,andtheintervalswereaboutfifteenyears。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter8TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter8-BandaOrientalandPatagoniaHAVINGbeendelayedfornearlyafortnightinthecity,IwasgladtoescapeonboardapacketboundforMonteVideo。Atowninastateofblockademustalwaysbeadisagreeableplaceofresidence;inthiscasemoreovertherewereconstantapprehensionsfromrobberswithin。Thesentinelsweretheworstofall;for,fromtheirofficeandfromhavingarmsintheirhands,theyrobbedwithadegreeofauthoritywhichothermencouldnotimitate。

  Ourpassagewasaverylongandtediousone。ThePlatalookslikeanobleestuaryonthemap;butisintruthapooraffair。Awideexpanseofmuddywaterhasneithergrandeurnorbeauty。Atonetimeoftheday,thetwoshores,bothofwhichareextremelylow,couldjustbedistinguishedfromthedeck。OnarrivingatMonteVideoIfoundthattheBeaglewouldnotsailforsometime,soIpreparedforashortexcursioninthispartofBandaOriental。EverythingwhichIhavesaidaboutthecountrynearMaldonadoisapplicabletoMonteVideo;buttheland,withtheoneexceptionoftheGreenMount450feethigh,fromwhichittakesitsname,isfarmorelevel。Verylittleoftheundulatinggrassyplainisenclosed;butnearthetownthereareafewhedge-banks,coveredwithagaves,cacti,andfennel。

  November14th——WeleftMonteVideointheafternoon。IintendedtoproceedtoColoniadelSacramiento,situatedonthenorthernbankofthePlataandoppositetoBuenosAyres,andthence,followinguptheUruguay,tothevillageofMercedesontheRioNegrooneofthemanyriversofthisnameinSouthAmerica,andfromthispointtoreturndirecttoMonteVideo。WesleptatthehouseofmyguideatCanelones。Inthemorningweroseearly,inthehopesofbeingabletorideagooddistance;butitwasavainattempt,foralltheriverswereflooded。WepassedinboatsthestreamsofCanelones,St。Lucia,andSanJose,andthuslostmuchtime。

  OnaformerexcursionIcrossedtheLucianearitsmouth,andIwassurprisedtoobservehoweasilyourhorses,althoughnotusedtoswim,passedoverawidthofatleastsixhundredyards。OnmentioningthisatMonteVideo,Iwastoldthatavesselcontainingsomemountebanksandtheirhorses,beingwreckedinthePlata,onehorseswamsevenmilestotheshore。InthecourseofthedayIwasamusedbythedexteritywithwhichaGauchoforcedarestivehorsetoswimariver。Hestrippedoffhisclothes,andjumpingonitsback,rodeintothewatertillitwasoutofitsdepth;

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