Somepartswereclothedbylowthickets，andotherswiththosesucculentplants，whichluxuriateonlywheresaltabounds。Badasthecountrywas，ostriches，deer，agoutis，andarmadilloes，wereabundant。Myguidetoldme，thattwomonthsbeforehehadamostnarrowescapeofhislife：hewasouthuntingwithtwoothermen，atnogreatdistancefromthispartofthecountry，whentheyweresuddenlymetbyapartyofIndians，whogivingchase，soonovertookandkilledhistwofriends。Hisownhorse’slegswerealsocaughtbythebolas，buthejumpedoff，andwithhisknifecutthemfree：whiledoingthishewasobligedtododgeroundhishorse，andreceivedtwoseverewoundsfromtheirchuzos。Springingonthesaddle，hemanaged，byamostwonderfulexertion，justtokeepaheadofthelongspearsofhispursuers，whofollowedhimtowithinsightofthefort。Fromthattimetherewasanorderthatnooneshouldstrayfarfromthesettlement。
IdidnotknowofthiswhenIstarted，andwassurprisedtoobservehowearnestlymyguidewatchedadeer，whichappearedtohavebeenfrightenedfromadistantquarter。
WefoundtheBeaglehadnotarrived，andconsequentlysetoutonourreturn，butthehorsessoontiring，wewereobligedtobivouacontheplain。
Inthemorningwehadcaughtanarmadillo，whichalthoughamostexcellentdishwhenroastedinitsshell，didnotmakeaverysubstantialbreakfastanddinnerfortwohungrymen。Thegroundattheplacewherewestoppedforthenight，wasincrustedwithalayerofsulphateofsoda，andhence，ofcourse，waswithoutwater。Yetmanyofthesmallerrodentsmanagedtoexistevenhere，andthetucutucowasmakingitsoddlittlegruntbeneathmyhead，duringhalfthenight。Ourhorseswereverypoorones，andinthemorningtheyweresoonexhaustedfromnothavinghadanythingtodrink，sothatwewereobligedtowalk。Aboutnoonthedogskilledakid，whichweroasted。Iatesomeofit，butitmademeintolerablythirsty。Thiswasthemoredistressingastheroad，fromsomerecentrain，wasfulloflittlepuddlesofclearwater，yetnotadropwasdrinkable。Ihadscarcelybeentwentyhourswithoutwater，andonlypartofthetimeunderahotsun，yetthethirstrenderedmeveryweak。Howpeoplesurvivetwoorthreedaysundersuchcircumstances，Icannotimagine：atthesametime，Imustconfessthatmyguidedidnotsufferatall，andwasastonishedthatoneday’sdeprivationshouldbesotroublesometome。
Ihaveseveraltimesalludedtothesurfaceofthegroundbeingincrustedwithsalt。Thisphenomenonisquitedifferentfromthatofthesalinas，andmoreextraordinary。InmanypartsofSouthAmerica，wherevertheclimateismoderatelydry，theseincrustationsoccur；butIhavenowhereseenthemsoabundantasnearBahiaBlanca。Thesalthere，andinotherpartsofPatagonia，consistschieflyofsulphateofsodawithsomecommonsalt。
AslongasthegroundremainsmoistinthesalitralesastheSpaniardsimproperlycallthem，mistakingthissubstanceforsaltpeter，nothingistobeseenbutanextensiveplaincomposedofablack，muddysoil，supportingscatteredtuftsofsucculentplants。Onreturningthroughoneofthesetracts，afteraweek’shotweather，oneissurprisedtoseesquaremilesoftheplainwhite，asiffromaslightfallofsnow，hereandthereheapedupbythewindintolittledrifts。Thislatterappearanceischieflycausedbythesaltsbeingdrawnup，duringtheslowevaporationofthemoisture，roundbladesofdeadgrass，stumpsofwood，andpiecesofbrokenearth，insteadofbeingcrystallizedatthebottomsofthepuddlesofwater。Thesalitralesoccureitheronleveltractselevatedonlyafewfeetabovethelevelofthesea，oronalluviallandborderingrivers。M。Parchappe[7]foundthatthesalineincrustationontheplain，atthedistanceofsomemilesfromthesea，consistedchieflyofsulphateofsoda，withonlysevenpercent。ofcommonsalt；whilstnearertothecoast，thecommonsaltincreasedto37partsinahundred。Thiscircumstancewouldtemptonetobelievethatthesulphateofsodaisgeneratedinthesoil，fromthemuriate，leftonthesurfaceduringtheslowandrecentelevationofthisdrycountry。Thewholephenomenoniswellworthytheattentionofnaturalists。Havethesucculent，salt-lovingplants，whicharewellknowntocontainmuchsoda，thepowerofdecomposingthemuriate？
Doestheblackfetidmud，aboundingwithorganicmatter，yieldthesulphurandultimatelythesulphuricacid？
TwodaysafterwardsIagainrodetotheharbour：whennotfarfromourdestination，mycompanion，thesamemanasbefore，spiedthreepeoplehuntingonhorseback。Heimmediatelydismounted，andwatchingthemintently，said，“Theydon’tridelikeChristians，andnobodycanleavethefort。”Thethreehuntersjoinedcompany，andlikewisedismountedfromtheirhorses。Atlastonemountedagainandrodeoverthehilloutofsight。Mycompanionsaid，“Wemustnowgetonourhorses：loadyourpistol；“andhelookedtohisownsword。Iasked，“AretheyIndians？”——“Quiensabe？whoknows？iftherearenomorethanthree，itdoesnotsignify。”Itthenstruckme，thattheonemanhadgoneoverthehilltofetchtherestofhistribe。
Isuggestedthis；butalltheanswerIcouldextortwas，“Quiensabe？”
Hisheadandeyeneverforaminuteceasedscanningslowlythedistanthorizon。Ithoughthisuncommoncoolnesstoogoodajoke，andaskedhimwhyhedidnotreturnhome。Iwasstartledwhenheanswered，“Wearereturning，butinalinesoastopassnearaswamp，intowhichwecangallopthehorsesasfarastheycango，andthentrusttoourownlegs；sothatthereisnodanger。”Ididnotfeelquitesoconfidentofthis，andwantedtoincreaseourpace。Hesaid，“No，notuntiltheydo。”Whenanylittleinequalityconcealedus，wegalloped；butwheninsight，continuedwalking。Atlastwereachedavalley，andturningtotheleft，gallopedquicklytothefootofahill；hegavemehishorsetohold，madethedogsliedown，andthencrawledonhishandsandkneestoreconnoitre。Heremainedinthispositionforsometime，andatlast，burstingoutinlaughter，exclaimed，“Mugeres！”
women！。Heknewthemtobethewifeandsister-in-lawofthemajor’sson，huntingforostrich’seggs。Ihavedescribedthisman’sconduct，becauseheactedunderthefullimpressionthattheywereIndians。Assoon，however，astheabsurdmistakewasfoundout，hegavemeahundredreasonswhytheycouldnothavebeenIndians；butallthesewereforgottenatthetime。
WethenrodeoninpeaceandquietnesstoalowpointcalledPuntaAlta，whencewecouldseenearlythewholeofthegreatharbourofBahiaBlanca。
Thewideexpanseofwaterischokedupbynumerousgreatmud-banks，whichtheinhabitantscallCangrejales，or_crabberies_，fromthenumberofsmallcrabs。Themudissosoftthatitisimpossibletowalkoverthem，evenfortheshortestdistance。Manyofthebankshavetheirsurfacescoveredwithlongrushes，thetopsofwhichalonearevisibleathighwater。Ononeoccasion，wheninaboat，weweresoentangledbytheseshallowsthatwecouldhardlyfindourway。Nothingwasvisiblebuttheflatbedsofmud；thedaywasnotveryclear，andtherewasmuchrefraction，orasthesailorsexpressedit，“thingsloomedhigh。”Theonlyobjectwithinourviewwhichwasnotlevelwasthehorizon；rusheslookedlikebushesunsupportedintheair，andwaterlikemud-banks，andmud-bankslikewater。
WepassedthenightinPuntaAlta，andIemployedmyselfinsearchingforfossilbones；thispointbeingaperfectcatacombformonstersofextinctraces。Theeveningwasperfectlycalmandclear；theextrememonotonyoftheviewgaveitaninteresteveninthemidstofmud-banksandgullssand-hillocksandsolitaryvultures。InridingbackinthemorningwecameacrossaveryfreshtrackofaPuma，butdidnotsucceedinfindingit。WesawalsoacoupleofZorillos，orskunks，——odiousanimals，whicharefarfromuncommon。
Ingeneralappearance，theZorilloresemblesapolecat，butitisratherlarger，andmuchthickerinproportion。Consciousofitspower，itroamsbydayabouttheopenplain，andfearsneitherdognorman。Ifadogisurgedtotheattack，itscourageisinstantlycheckedbyafewdropsofthefetidoil，whichbringsonviolentsicknessandrunningatthenose。
Whateverisoncepollutedbyit，isforeveruseless。Azarasaysthesmellcanbeperceivedataleaguedistant；morethanonce，whenenteringtheharbourofMonteVideo，thewindbeingoffshore，wehaveperceivedtheodouronboardtheBeagle。Certainitis，thateveryanimalmostwillinglymakesroomfortheZorillo。[1]Thecorralisanenclosuremadeoftallandstrongstakes。Everyestancia，orfarmingestate，hasoneattachedtoit。
[2]ThehovelsoftheIndiansarethuscalled。
[3]ReportoftheAgricult。Chem。Assoc。intheAgricult。Gazette，1845，p。93。
[4]LinnaeanTrans，。vol。xi。p。205。Itisremarkablehowallthecircumstancesconnectedwiththesalt-lakesinSiberiaandPatagoniaaresimilar。Siberia，likePatagonia，appearstohavebeenrecentlyelevatedabovethewatersofthesea。Inbothcountriesthesalt-lakesoccupyshallowdepressionsintheplains；inboththemudonthebordersisblackandfetid；beneaththecrustofcommonsalt，sulphateofsodaorofmagnesiumoccurs，imperfectlycrystallized；andinboth，themuddysandismixedwithlentilsofgypsum。TheSiberiansalt-lakesareinhabitedbysmallcrustaceousanimals；andflamingoesEdin。NewPhilos。Jour。，Jan1830likewisefrequentthem。Asthesecircumstances，apparentlysotrifling，occurintwodistantcontinents，wemayfeelsurethattheyarethenecessaryresultsofacommoncause——SeePallas’sTravels，1793to1794，pp。129-134。
[5]Iamboundtoexpressinthestrongestterms，myobligationtothegovernmentofBuenosAyresfortheobligingmannerinwhichpassportstoallpartsofthecountryweregivenme，asnaturalistoftheBeagle。
[6]Thisprophecyhasturnedoutentirelyandmiserablywrong。1845。
[7]Voyagedansl’AmeriqueMeridparM。A。d’Orbigny。
Part。Hist。tom。i。p。664PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter5TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter5-BahiaBlancaTheBeaglearrivedhereonthe24thofAugust，andaweekafterwardssailedforthePlata。WithCaptainFitzRoy’sconsentIwasleftbehind，totravelbylandtoBuenosAyres。Iwillhereaddsomeobservations，whichweremadeduringthisvisitandonapreviousoccasion，whentheBeaglewasemployedinsurveyingtheharbour。
Theplain，atthedistanceofafewmilesfromthecoast，belongstothegreatPampeanformation，whichconsistsinpartofareddishclay，andinpartofahighlycalcareousmarlyrock。Nearerthecoasttherearesomeplainsformedfromthewreckoftheupperplain，andfrommud，gravel，andsandthrownupbytheseaduringtheslowelevationoftheland，ofwhichelevationwehaveevidenceinupraisedbedsofrecentshells，andinroundedpebblesofpumicescatteredoverthecountry。AtPuntaAltawehaveasectionofoneoftheselater-formedlittleplains，whichishighlyinterestingfromthenumberandextraordinarycharacteroftheremainsofgiganticland-animalsembeddedinit。ThesehavebeenfullydescribedbyProfessorOwen，intheZoologyofthevoyageoftheBeagle，andaredepositedintheCollegeofSurgeons。Iwillheregiveonlyabriefoutlineoftheirnature。
First，partsofthreeheadsandotherbonesoftheMegatherium，thehugedimensionsofwhichareexpressedbyitsname。Secondly，theMegalonyx，agreatalliedanimal。Thirdly，theScelidotherium，alsoanalliedanimal，ofwhichIobtainedanearlyperfectskeleton。Itmusthavebeenaslargeasarhinoceros：inthestructureofitsheaditcomesaccordingtoMr。
Owen，nearesttotheCapeAnteater，butinsomeotherrespectsitapproachestothearmadilloes。Fourthly，theMylodonDarwinii，acloselyrelatedgenusoflittleinferiorsize。Fifthly，anothergiganticedentalquadruped。Sixthly，alargeanimal，withanosseouscoatincompartments，verylikethatofanarmadillo。Seventhly，anextinctkindofhorse，towhichIshallhaveagaintorefer。Eighthly，atoothofaPachydermatousanimal，probablythesamewiththeMacrauchenia，ahugebeastwithalongnecklikeacamel，whichIshallalsorefertoagain。Lastly，theToxodon，perhapsoneofthestrangestanimalseverdiscovered：insizeitequalledanelephantormegatherium，butthestructureofitsteeth，asMr。Owenstates，provesindisputablythatitwasintimatelyrelatedtotheGnawers，theorderwhich，atthepresentday，includesmostofthesmallestquadrupeds：inmanydetailsitisalliedtothePachydermata：judgingfromthepositionofitseyes，ears，andnostrils，itwasprobablyaquatic，liketheDugongandManatee，towhichitisalsoallied。HowwonderfullyarethedifferentOrders，atthepresenttimesowellseparated，blendedtogetherindifferentpointsofthestructureoftheToxodon！
Theremainsoftheseninegreatquadrupeds，andmanydetachedbones，werefoundembeddedonthebeach，withinthespaceofabout200yardssquare。
Itisaremarkablecircumstancethatsomanydifferentspeciesshouldbefoundtogether；anditproveshownumerousinkindtheancientinhabitantsofthiscountrymusthavebeen。AtthedistanceofaboutthirtymilesfromPuntaAlta，inacliffofredearth，Ifoundseveralfragmentsofbones，someoflargesize。Amongthemweretheteethofagnawer，equallinginsizeandcloselyresemblingthoseoftheCapybara，whosehabitshavebeendescribed；andtherefore，probably，anaquaticanimal。TherewasalsopartoftheheadofaCtenomys；thespeciesbeingdifferentfromtheTucutuco，butwithaclosegeneralresemblance。Theredearth，likethatofthePampas，inwhichtheseremainswereembedded，contains，accordingtoProfessorEhrenberg，eightfresh-waterandonesalt-waterinfusorialanimalcule；