ButIshouldnotoffertheevidencefortheprosecutionandleavethedefenseunheard。Wm。C。Grimesdeposesasfollows:——\"Wehadtakenshiptogoovertotheotherside。Theseawasnotmorethansixmileswide。Ofthebeautyofthescene，however，Icannotsayenough，norcanIimaginewherethosetravelerscarriedtheireyeswhohavedescribedthesceneryofthelakeastameoruninteresting。Thefirstgreatcharacteristicofitisthedeepbasininwhichitlies。Thisisfromthreetofourhundredfeetdeeponallsidesexceptatthelowerend，andthesharpslopeofthebanks，whicharealloftherichestgreen，isbrokenanddiversifiedbythewâdysandwater—courseswhichworktheirwaydownthroughthesidesofthebasin，formingdarkchasmsorlightsunnyvalleys。NearTiberiasthesebanksarerocky，andancientsepulchresopeninthem，withtheirdoorstowardthewater。Theyselectedgrandspots，asdidtheEgyptiansofold，forburialplaces，asiftheydesignedthatwhenthevoiceofGodshouldreachthesleepers，theyshouldwalkforthandopentheireyesonscenesofgloriousbeauty。Ontheeast，thewildanddesolatemountainscontrastfinelywiththedeepbluelake;andtowardthenorth，sublimeandmajestic，Hermonlooksdownonthesea，liftinghiswhitecrowntoheavenwiththeprideofahillthathasseenthedepartingfootstepsofahundredgenerations。Onthenorth—eastshoreoftheseawasasingletree，andthisistheonlytreeofanysizevisiblefromthewaterofthelake，exceptafewlonelypalmsinthecityofTiberias，andbyitssolitarypositionattractsmoreattentionthanwouldaforest。ThewholeappearanceofthesceneispreciselywhatwewouldexpectanddesirethesceneryofGenessarettobe，grandbeauty，butquietcalm。Theverymountainsarecalm。\"Itisaningeniouslywrittendescription，andwellcalculatedtodeceive。
Butifthepaintandtheribbonsandtheflowersbestrippedfromit，askeletonwillbefoundbeneath。
Sostripped，thereremainsalakesixmileswideandneutralincolor;
withsteepgreenbanks，unrelievedbyshrubbery;atoneendbare，unsightlyrocks，with（almostinvisible）holesinthemofnoconsequencetothepicture;
eastward，\"wildanddesolatemountains;\"（low，desolatehills，heshouldhavesaid;）inthenorth，amountaincalledHermon，withsnowonit;peculiarityofthepicture，\"calmness;\"itsprominentfeature，onetree。
Noingenuitycouldmakesuchapicturebeautiful——toone\'sactualvision。
Iclaimtherighttocorrectmisstatements，andhavesocorrectedthecolorofthewaterintheaboverecapitulation。ThewatersofGenessaretareofanexceedinglymildblue，evenfromahighelevationandadistanceoffivemiles。Closeathand（thewitnesswassailingonthelake，）itishardlypropertocallthemblueatall，muchless\"deep\"blue。Iwishtostate，also，notasacorrection，butasmatterofopinion，thatMountHermonisnotastrikingorpicturesquemountainbyanymeans，beingtooneartheheightofitsimmediateneigh—borstobeso。Thatisall。Idonotobjecttothewitnessdraggingamountainforty—fivemilestohelpthesceneryunderconsideration，becauseitisentirelypropertodoit，andbesides，thepictureneedsit。
\"C。W。E。，\"（of\"LifeintheHolyLand，\"）deposesasfollows:——\"AbeautifulsealiesunbosomedamongtheGalileanhills，inthemidstofthatlandoncepossessedbyZebulonandNaphtali，AsherandDan。Theazureoftheskypenetratesthedepthsofthelake，andthewatersaresweetandcool。Onthewest，stretchbroadfertileplains;onthenorththerockyshoresrisestepbystepuntilinthefardistancetowerthesnowyheightsofHermon;ontheeastthroughamistyveilareseenthehighplainsofPerea，whichstretchawayinruggedmountainsleadingthemindbyvariedpathstowardJerusalemtheHoly。Flowersbloominthisterrestrialparadise，oncebeautifulandverdantwithwavingtrees;singingbirdsenchanttheear;theturtle—dovesootheswithitssoftnote;thecrestedlarksendsupitssongtowardheaven，andthegraveandstatelystorkinspiresthemindwiththought，andleadsitontomeditationandrepose。Lifeherewasonceidyllic，charming;herewereoncenorich，nopoor，nohigh，nolow。Itwasaworldofease，simplicity，andbeauty;nowitisasceneofdesolationandmisery。\"Thisisnotaningeniouspicture。ItistheworstIeversaw。Itdescribesinelaboratedetailwhatittermsa\"terrestrialparadise，\"andcloseswiththestartlinginformationthatthisparadiseis\"asceneofdesolationandmisery。\"
Ihavegiventwofair，averagespecimensofthecharacterofthetestimonyofferedbythemajorityofthewriterswhovisitthisregion。Onesays，\"OfthebeautyofthesceneIcannotsayenough，\"andthenproceedstocoverupwithawoofofglitteringsentencesathingwhich，whenstrippedforinspection，provestobeonlyanunobtrusivebasinofwater，somemountainousdesolation，andonetree。Theother，afteraconscientiousefforttobuildaterrestrialparadiseoutofthesamematerials，withtheadditionofa\"graveandstatelystork，\"spoilsitallbyblunderingupontheghastlytruthatthelast。
NearlyeverybookconcerningGalileeanditslakedescribesthesceneryasbeautiful。No——notalwayssostraightforwardasthat。Sometimestheimpressionintentionallyconveyedisthatitisbeautiful，atthesametimethattheauthoriscarefulnottosaythatitis，inplainSaxon。Butacarefulanalysisofthesedescriptionswillshowthatthematerialsofwhichtheyareformedarenotindividuallybeautifulandcannotbewroughtintocombinationsthatarebeautiful。Thevenerationandtheaffectionwhichsomeofthesemenfeltforthescenestheywerespeakingof，heatedtheirfanciesandbiasedtheirjudgment;butthepleasantfalsitiestheywrotewerefullofhonestsincerity，atanyrate。Otherswroteastheydid，becausetheyfeareditwouldbeunpopulartowriteotherwise。
Otherswerehypocritesanddeliberatelymeanttodeceive。Anyofthemwouldsayinamoment，ifasked，thatitwasalwaysrightandalwaysbesttotellthetruth。Theywouldsaythat，atanyrate，iftheydidnotperceivethedriftofthequestion。
Butwhyshouldnotthetruthbespokenofthisregion？Isthetruthharmful？Hasiteverneededtohideitsface？GodmadetheSeaofGalileeanditssurroundingsastheyare。IsittheprovinceofMr。Grimestoimproveuponthework？
Iamsure，fromthetenorofbooksIhaveread，thatmanywhohavevisitedthislandinyearsgoneby，werePresbyterians，andcameseekingevidencesinsupportoftheirparticularcreed;theyfoundaPresbyterianPalestine，andtheyhadalreadymadeuptheirmindstofindnoother，thoughpossiblytheydidnotknowit，beingblindedbytheirzeal。OtherswereBaptists，seekingBaptistevidencesandaBaptistPalestine。OtherswereCatholics，Methodists，Episcopalians，seekingevidencesindorsingtheirseveralcreeds，andaCatholic，aMethodist，anEpiscopalianPalestine。Honestasthesemen\'sintentionsmayhavebeen，theywerefullofpartialitiesandprejudices，theyenteredthecountrywiththeirverdictsalreadyprepared，andtheycouldnomorewritedispassionatelyandimpartiallyaboutitthantheycouldabouttheirownwivesandchildren。Ourpilgrimshavebroughttheirverdictswiththem。TheyhaveshownitintheirconversationeversinceweleftBeirout。Icanalmosttell，insetphrase，whattheywillsaywhentheyseeTabor，Nazareth，JerichoandJerusalem——becauseIhavethebookstheywill\"smouch\"theirideasfrom。Theseauthorswritepicturesandframerhapsodies，andlessermenfollowandseewiththeauthor\'seyesinsteadoftheirown，andspeakwithhistongue。WhatthepilgrimssaidatCesareaPhilippisurprisedmewithitswisdom。IfounditafterwardsinRobinson。WhattheysaidwhenGenessaretburstupontheirvision，charmedmewithitsgrace。IfinditinMr。Thompson\'s\"LandandtheBook。\"Theyhavespokenoften，inhappilywordedlanguagewhichnevervaried，ofhowtheymeantolaytheirwearyheadsuponastoneatBethel，asJacobdid，andclosetheirdimeyes，anddream，perchance，ofangelsdescendingoutofheavenonaladder。Itwasverypretty。ButIhaverecognizedthewearyheadandthedimeyes，finally。Theyborrowedtheidea——andthewords——andtheconstruction——andthepunctuation——fromGrimes。ThepilgrimswilltellofPalestine，whentheygethome，notasitappearedtothem，butasitappearedtoThompsonandRobinsonandGrimes——withthetintsvariedtosuiteachpilgrim\'screed。
Pilgrims，sinnersandArabsareallabed，now，andthecampisstill。
Laborinlonelinessisirksome。SinceImademylastfewnotes，Ihavebeensittingoutsidethetentforhalfanhour。NightisthetimetoseeGalilee。Genessaretundertheselustrousstarshasnothingrepulsiveaboutit。Genessaretwiththeglitteringreflectionsoftheconstellationsfleckingitssurface，almostmakesmeregretthatIeversawtherudeglareofthedayuponit。Itshistoryanditsassociationsareitschiefestcharm，inanyeyes，andthespellstheyweavearefeebleinthesearchinglightofthesun。Then，wescarcelyfeelthefetters。Ourthoughtswanderconstantlytothepracticalconcernsoflife，andrefusetodwelluponthingsthatseemvagueandunreal。Butwhenthedayisdone，eventhemostunimpressiblemustyieldtothedreamyinfluencesofthistranquilstarlight。
Theoldtraditionsoftheplacestealuponhismemoryandhaunthisreveries，andthenhisfancyclothesallsightsandsoundswiththesupernatural。
Inthelappingofthewavesuponthebeach，hehearsthedipofghostlyoars;inthesecretnoisesofthenighthehearsspiritvoices;inthesoftsweepofthebreeze，therushofinvisiblewings。Phan—tomshipsareonthesea，thedeadoftwentycenturiescomeforthfromthetombs，andinthedirgesofthenightwindthesongsofoldforgottenagesfindutteranceagain。
Inthestarlight，Galileehasnoboundariesbutthebroadcompassoftheheavens，andisatheatremeetforgreatevents;meetforthebirthofareligionabletosaveaworld;andmeetforthestatelyFigureappointedtostanduponitsstageandproclaimitshighdecrees。Butinthesunlight，onesays:Isitforthedeedswhichweredoneandthewordswhichwerespokeninthislittleacreofrocksandsandeighteencenturiesgone，thatthebellsareringingto—dayintheremoteislandsoftheseaandfarandwideovercontinentsthatclaspthecircumferenceofthehugeglobe？
Onecancomprehenditonlywhennighthashiddenallincongruitiesandcreatedatheatreproperforsograndadrama。
Chapter49
WetookanotherswimintheSeaofGalileeattwilightyesterday，andanotheratsunrisethismorning。Wehavenotsailed，butthreeswimsareequaltoasail，aretheynot？Therewereplentyoffishvisibleinthewater，butwehavenooutsideaidsinthispilgrimagebut\"TentLifeintheHolyLand，\"\"TheLandandtheBook，\"andotherliteratureoflikedescription——nofishing—tackle。TherewerenofishtobehadinthevillageofTiberias。
True，wesawtwoorthreevagabondsmendingtheirnets，butnevertryingtocatchanythingwiththem。
WedidnotgototheancientwarmbathstwomilesbelowTiberias。I
hadnodesireintheworldtogothere。Thisseemedalittlestrange，andpromptedmetotrytodiscoverwhatthecauseofthisunreasonableindifferencewas。ItturnedouttobesimplybecausePlinymentionsthem。IhaveconceivedasortofunwarrantableunfriendlinesstowardPlinyandSt。Paul，becauseitseemsasifIcanneverferretoutaplacethatIcanhavetomyself。
ItalwaysandeternallytranspiresthatSt。Paulhasbeentothatplace，andPlinyhas\"mentioned\"it。
Intheearlymorningwemountedandstarted。Andthenaweirdapparitionmarchedforthattheheadoftheprocession—apirate，Ithought，ifeverapiratedweltuponland。ItwasatallArab，asswarthyasanIndian;
young—saythirtyyearsofage。Onhisheadhehadcloselyboundagorgeousyellowandredstripedsilkscarf，whoseends，lavishlyfringedwithtassels，hungdownbetweenhisshouldersanddalliedwiththewind。Fromhisnecktohisknees，inamplefolds，arobesweptdownthatwasaverystar—spangledbannerofcurvedandsinuousbarsofblackandwhite。Outofhisback，somewhere，apparently，thelongstemofachiboukprojected，andreachedfarabovehisrightshoulder。Athwarthisback，diagonally，andextendinghighabovehisleftshoulder，wasanArabgumofSaladin\'stime，thatwassplendidwithsilverplatingfromstockclearuptotheendofitsmeasurelessstretchofbarrel。AbouthiswaistwasboundmanyandmanyayardofelaboratelyfiguredbutsadlytarnishedstuffthatcamefromsumptuousPersia，andamongthebaggyfoldsinfrontthesunbeamsglintedfromaformidablebatteryofoldbrass—mountedhorse—pistolsandthegildedhiltsofblood—thirstyknives。Therewereholstersformorepistolsappendedtothewonderfulstackoflong—hairedgoat—skinsandPersiancarpets，whichthemanhadbeentaughttoregardinthelightofasaddle;anddownamongthependulousrankofvasttasselsthatswungfromthatsaddle，andclangingagainsttheironshovelofastirrupthatproppedthewarrior\'skneesuptowardhischin，wasacrooked，silver—cladscimitarofsuchawfuldimensionsandsuchimplacableexpressionthatnomanmighthopetolookuponitandnotshudder。Thefringedandbedizenedprincewhoseprivilegeitistoridetheponyandleadtheelephantintoacountryvillageispoorandnakedcomparedtothischaosofparaphernalia，andthehappyvanityoftheoneistheverypovertyofsatisfactioncomparedtothemagesticserenity，theoverwhelmingcomplacencyoftheother。
\"Whoisthis？Whatisthis？\"Thatwasthetremblinginquiryalldowntheline。
\"Ourguard！FromGalileetothebirthplaceoftheSavior，thecountryisinfestedwithfierceBedouins，whosesolehappinessitis，inthislife，tocutandstabandmangleandmurderunoffendingChristians。Allahbewithus！\"
\"Thenhirearegiment！Wouldyousendusoutamongthesedesperatehordes，withnosalvationinourutmostneedbutthisoldturret？\"
Thedragomanlaughed—notatthefacetiousnessofthesimile，forverily，thatguideorthatcourierorthatdragomanneveryetliveduponearthwhohadinhimthefaintestappreciationofajoke，eventhoughthatjokeweresobroadandsoponderousthatifitfellonhimitwouldflattenhimoutlikeapostagestamp—thedragomanlaughed，andthen，emboldenedbysomethoughtthatwasinhisbrain，nodoubt，proceededtoextremitiesandwinked。
Instraitslikethese，whenamanlaughs，itisencouragingwhenhewinks，itispositivelyreassuring。Hefinallyinti—matedthatoneguardwouldbesufflcienttoprotectus，butthatthatonewasanabsolutenecessity。
ItwasbecauseofthemoralweighthisawfulpanoplywouldhavewiththeBedouins。ThenIsaidwedidn\'twantanyguardatall。IfonefantasticvagabondcouldprotecteightarmedChristiansandapackofArabservantsfromallharm，surelythatdetachmentcouldprotectthemselves。Heshookhisheaddoubtfully。ThenIsaid，justthinkofhowitlooks—thinkcfnowitwouldread，toself—reliantAmericans，thatwewentsneakingthroughthisdesertedwildernessundertheprotectionofthismasqueradingArab，whowouldbreakhisneckgettingoutofthecountryifamanthatwasamaneverstartedafterhim。Itwasamean，low，degradingposition。Whywereweevertoldtobringnavyrevolverswithusifwehadtobeprotectedatlastbythisinfamousstar—spangledscumofthedesert？Theseappealswerevain—thedragomanonlysmiledandshookhishead。
IrodetothefrontandstruckupanacquaintancewithKingSolomon—in—all—his—glory，andgothimtoshowmehislingeringeternityofagun。Ithadarustydintlock;itwasringedandbarredandplatedwithsilverfromendtoend，butitwasasdesperatelyoutoftheperpendicularasarethebilliardcuesof\'49thatonefindsyetinserviceintheancientminingcampsofCalifornia。Themuzzlewaseatenbytherustofcenturiesintoaraggedfiligree—work，liketheendofaburntoutstove—pipe。Ishutoneeyeandpeeredwithin——itwasflakedwithironrustlikeanoldsteamboatboiler。
Iborrowedtheponderouspistolsandsnappedthem。Theywererustyin—
side，too—hadnotbeenloadedforageneration。Iwentback，fullofencouragement，andreportedtotheguide，andaskedhimtodischargethisdismantledfortress。
Itcameout，then。ThisfellowwasaretaineroftheSheikofTiberias。
HewasasourceofGovernmentrevenue。HewastotheEmpireofTiberiaswhatthecustomsaretoAmerica。TheSheikimposedguardsupontravelersandchargedthemforit。Itisalucrativesourceofemolument，andsometimesbringsintothenationaltreasuryasmuchasthirty—fiveorfortydollarsayear。
Iknewthewarrior\'ssecretnow;Iknewthehollowvanityofhisrustytrumpery，anddespisedhisasininecomplacency。Itoldonhim，andwithrecklessdaringthecavalcadestraightaheadintotheperiloussolitudesofthedesert，andscornedhisfranticwarningsofthemutilationanddeaththathoveredaboutthemoneveryside。
Arrivedatanelevationoftwelvehundredfeetabovethelake，（IoughttomentionthatthelakeliessixhundredfeetbelowtheleveloftheMediterranean—notravelereverneglectstoflourishthatfragmentofnewsinhisletters，）
asbaldandunthrillingapanoramaasanylandcanafford，perhaps，wasspreadoutbeforeus。Yetitwassocrowdedwithhistoricalinterest，thatifallthepagesthathavebeenwrittenaboutitwerespreaduponitssurface，theywouldflagitfromhorizontohorizonlikeapavement。Amongthelocalitiescomprisedinthisview，wereMountHermon;thehillsthatborderCeasureaPhilippi，Dan，theSourcesoftheJordanandtheWatersofMerom;Tiberias;
theSeaofGalilee;Joseph\'sPit;Capernaum;Bethsaida;thesupposedscenesoftheSermonontheMount，thefeedingofthemultitudesandthemiraculousdraughtoffishes;thedeclivitydownwhichtheswinerantothesea;theentranceandtheexitoftheJordan;Safed，\"thecitysetuponahill，\"
oneofthefourholycitiesoftheJews，andtheplacewheretheybelievetherealMessiahwillappearwhenhecomestoredeemtheworld;partofthebattle—fieldofHattin，wheretheknightlyCrusadersfoughttheirlastfight，andinablazeofglorypassedfromthestageandendedtheirsplendidcareerforever;MountTabor，thetraditionalsceneoftheLord\'sTransfiguration。
Anddowntowardthesoutheastlayalandscapethatsuggestedtomymindaquotation（imperfectlyremembered，nodoubt\"TheEphraimitesnotbeingcalledupontoshareintherichspoilsoftheAmmonitishwar，assembledamightyhosttofightagainstJeptha，JudgeofIsrael;who，beingapprisedoftheirapproach，gatheredtogetherthemenofIsraelandgavethembattleandputthemtoflight。
Tomakehisvictorythemoresecure，hestationedguardsatthedifferentfordsandpassagesoftheJordan，withinstructionstoletnonepasswhocouldnotsayShibboleth。TheEphraimites，beingOfadifferenttribe，couldnotframetopronouncethewordright，butcalleditSibboleth，whichprovedthemenemiesandcoetthemtheirlives;wherefore，fortyandtwothousandfellatthedifferentfordsandpassagesoftheJordanthatday。\"
WejoggedalongpeacefullyoverthegreatcaravanroutefromDamascustoJerusalemandEgypt，pastLubiaandotherSyrianhamlets，perched，intheunvaryingstyle，uponthesummitofsteepmoundsandhills，andfencedroundaboutwithgiantcactuses，（thesignofworthlessland，）withpricklypearsuponthemlikehams，andcameatlasttothebattle—fieldofHattin。
Itisagrand，irregularplateau，andlooksasifitmighthavebeencreatedforabattle—field。HerethepeerlessSaladinmettheChristianhostsomesevenhundredyearsago，andbroketheirpowerinPalestineforalltimetocome。Therehadlongbeenatrucebetweentheopposingforces，butaccordingtotheGuide—Book，RaynauldofChatillon，LordofKerak，brokeitbyplunderingaDamascuscaravan，andrefusingtogiveupeitherthemerchantsortheirgoodswhenSaladindemandedthem。ThisconductofaninsolentpettychieftainstungtheSultantothequick，andhesworethathewouldslaughterRaynauldwithhisownhand，nomatterhow，orwhen，orwherehefoundhim。Botharmiespreparedforwar。UndertheweakKingofJerusalemwastheveryfloweroftheChristianchivalry。Hefoolishlycompelledthemtoundergoalong，exhaustingmarch，inthescorchingsun，andthen，withoutwaterorotherrefreshment，orderedthemtoencampinthisopenplain。ThesplendidlymountedmassesofMoslemsoldierssweptroundthenorthendofGenessaret，burninganddestroyingastheycame，andpitchedtheircampinfrontoftheopposinglines。Atdawntheterrificfightbegan。SurroundedonallsidesbytheSultan\'sswarmingbattalions，theChristianKnightsfoughtonwithoutahopefortheirlives。Theyfoughtwithdesperatevalor，buttonopurpose;theoddsofheatandnumbers，andconsumingthirst，weretoogreatagainstthem。TowardsthemiddleofthedaythebravestoftheirbandcuttheirwaythroughtheMoslemranksandgainedthesummitofalittlehill，andthere，hourafterhour，theyclosedaroundthebanneroftheCross，andbeatbackthechargingsquadronsoftheenemy。
ButthedoomoftheChristianpowerwassealed。SunsetfoundSaladinLordofPalestine，theChristianchivalrystrewninheapsuponthefield，andtheKingofJerusalem，theGrand:fasteroftheTemplar，andRaynauldofChatillon，captivesintheSultan\'stent。Saladintreatedtwooftheprisonerswithprincelycourtesy，andorderedrefreshmentstobesetbeforethem。WhentheKinghandedanicedSherbettoChatillon，theSultansaid，\"
Itisthouthatgivestittohim，notI。\"Herememberedhisoath，andslaughteredthehaplessKnightofChatillonwithhisownhand。
Itwashardtorealizethatthissilentplainhadonceresoundedwithmartialmusicandtrembledtothetrampofarmedmen。Itwashardtopeoplethissolitudewithrushingcolumnsofcavalry，andstiritstorpidpulseswiththeshoutsofvictors，theshrieksofthewounded，andtheflashofbannerandsteelabovethesurgingbillowsofwar。Adesolationisherethatnotevenimaginationcangracewiththepompoflifeandaction。
WereachedTaborsafely，andconsiderablyinadvanceofthatoldiron—cladswindleofaguard。Weneversawahumanbeingonthewholeroute，muchlesslawlesshordesofBedouins。Taborstandssolitaryandalone，agiantsentinelabovethePlainofEsdraelon。Itrisessomefourteenhundredfeetabovethesurroundinglevel，agreen，woodencone，symmetricalandfullofgrace——aprominentlandmark，andonethatisexceedinglypleasanttoeyessurfeitedwiththerepulsivemonotonyofdesertSyria。Weclimbedthesteeppathtoitssummit，throughbreezygladesofthornandoak。Theviewpresentedfromitshighestpeakwasalmostbeautiful。Below，wasthebroad，levelplainofEsdraelon，checkeredwithfieldslikeachess—board，andfullassmoothandlevel，seemingly;dottedaboutitsborderswithwhite，compactvillages，andfaintlypenciled，farandnear，withthecurvinglinesofroadsandtrails。Whenitisrobedinthefreshverdureofspring，itmustformacharmingpicture，evenbyitself。Skirtingitssouthernborderrises\"LittleHermon，\"overwhosesummitaglimpseofGilboaiscaught。Nain，famousfortheraisingofthewidow\'sson，andEndor，asfamousfortheperformancesofherwitchareinview。TotheeastwardliestheValleyoftheJordanandbeyonditthemountainsofGilead。WestwardisMountCarmel。Hermoninthenorth——thetable—landsofBashan—Safed，theholycity，gleamingwhiteuponatallspurofthemountainsofLebanon——asteel—bluecorneroftheSeaofGalilee——saddle—peakedHattin，traditional\"MountofBeatitudes\"andmutewitnessbravefightsoftheCrusadinghostforHolyCross——thesefillupthepicture。
Toglanceatthesalientfeaturesofthislandscapethroughthepicturesqueframeworkofaraggedandruinedstonewindow——archofthetimeofChrist，thushidingfromsightallthatisunattractive，istosecuretoyourselfapleasureworthclimbingthemountaintoenjoy。Onemuststandonhisheadtogetthebesteffectinafinesunset，andsetalandscapeinabold，strongframeworkthatisverycloseathand，tobringoutallitsbeauty。Onelearnsthislattertruthnevermoretoforgetit，inthatmimiclandofenchantment，thewonderfulgardenofmylordtheCountPallavicini，nearGenoa。Yougowanderingforhoursamonghillsandwoodedglens，artfullycontrivedtoleavetheimpressionthatNatureshapedthemandnotman;
followingwindingpathsandcomingsuddenlyuponleapingcascadesandrusticbridges;findingsylvanlakeswhereyouexpectedthemnot;loiteringthroughbatteredmediævalcastlesinminiaturethatseemhoarywithageandyetwerebuiltadozenyearsago;meditatingoverancientcrumblingtombs，whosemarblecolumnsweremarredandbrokenpurposelybythemodernartistthatmadethem;stumblingunawaresupontoypalaces，wroughtofrareandcostlymaterials，andagainuponapeasant\'shut，whosedilapidatedfurniturewouldneversuggestthatitwasmadesotoorder;sweepingroundandroundinthemidstofaforestonanenchantedwoodenhorsethatismovedbysomeinvisibleagency;traversingRomanroadsandpassingundermajestictriumphalarches;restinginquaintbowerswhereunseenspiritsdischargejetsofwateronyoufromeverypossibledirection，andwhereeventheflowersyoutouchassailyouwithashower;boatingonasubterraneanlakeamongcavernsandarchesroyallydrapedwithclusteringstalactites，andpassingoutintoopendayuponanotherlake，whichisborderedwithslopingbanksofgrassandgaywithpatricianbargesthatswimatanchorintheshadowofaminiaturemarbletemplethatrisesoutoftheclearwaterandglassesitswhitestatues，itsrichcapitalsandflutedcolumnsinthetranquildepths。So，frommarveltomarvelyouhavedriftedon，thinkingallthetimethattheonelastseenmustbethechiefest。And，verily，thechiefestwonderisreserveduntilthelast，butyoudonotseeituntilyoustepashore，andpassingthroughawildernessofrareflowers，collectedfromeverycorneroftheearth，youstandatthedoorofonemoremimictemple。Rightinthisplacetheartisttaxedhisgeniustotheutmost，andfairlyopenedthegatesoffairyland。Youlookthroughanunpretendingpaneofglass，stainedyellowthefirstthingyouseeisamassofquiveringfoliage，tenshortstepsbeforeyou，inthemidstofwhichisaraggedopeninglikeagateway—athingthatiscommonenoughinnature，andnotapttoexcitesuspicionsofadeephumandesign—andabovethebottomofthegateway，project，inthemostcarelessway！afewbroadtropicleavesandbrilliantflowers。Allofasudden，throughthisbright，boldgateway，youcatchaglimpseofthefaintest，softest，richestpicturethatevergracedthedreamofadyingSaint，sinceJohnsawtheNewJerusalemglimmeringabovethecloudsofHeaven。Abroadsweepofsea，fleckedwithcareeningsails;asharp，juttingcape，andaloftylighthouseonit;aslopinglawnbehindit;beyond，aportionoftheold\"cityofpalaces，\"withitsparksandhillsandstatelymansions;beyondthese，aprodigiousmountain，withitsstrongoutlinessharplycutagainstoceanandsky;andoverall，vagrantshredsandflakesofcloud，floatinginaseaofgold。Theoceanisgold，thecityisgold，themeadow，themountain，thesky——everythingisgolden—rich，andmellow，anddreamyasavisionofParadise。Noartistcouldputuponcanvas，itsentrancingbeauty，andyet，withouttheyellowglass，andthecarefullycontrivedaccidentofaframeworkthatcastitintoenchanteddistanceandshutoutfromitallunattractivefeatures，itwasnotapicturetofallintoecstaciesover。Suchislife，andthetrailoftheserpentisoverusall。
ThereisnothingforitnowbuttocomebacktooldTabor，thoughthesubjectistiresomeenough，andIcannotsticktoitforwanderingofftoscenesthatarepleasantertoremember。IthinkIwillskip，anyhow。
ThereisnothingaboutTabor（exceptweconcedethatitwasthesceneoftheTransfiguration，）butsomegrayoldruins，stackedupthereinallagesoftheworldfromthedaysofstoutGideonandpartiesthatflourishedthirtycenturiesagotothefreshyesterdayofCrusadingtimes。IthasitsGreekConvent，andthecoffeethereisgood，butneverasplinterofthetruecrossorboneofahallowedsainttoarresttheidlethoughtsofworldlingsandturnthemintograverchannels。Catholicchurchisnothingtomethathasnorelics。
TheplainofEsdraelon——\"thebattle—fieldofthenations\"——onlysetsonetodreamingofJoshua，andBenhadad，andSaul，andGideon;Tamerlane，Tancred，CœurdeLion，andSaladin:thewarriorKingsofPersia，Egypt\'sheroes，andNapoleon——fortheyallfoughthere。Ifthemagicofthemoonlightcouldsummonfromthegravesofforgottencenturiesandmanylandsthecountlessmyriadsthathavebattledonthiswide，farreachingfloor，andarraytheminthethousandstrangeCostumesoftheirhundrednationalities，andsendthevasthostsweepingdowntheplain，splendidwithplumesandbannersandglitteringlances，Icouldstayhereanagetoseethephantompageant。Butthemagicofthemoonlightisavanityandafraud;andwhosoputtethhistrustinitshallsuffersorrowanddisappointment。
DownatthefootofTabor，andjustattheedgeofthestoriedPlainofEsdraelon，istheinsignificantvillageofDeburieh，whereDeborah，prophetessofIsrael，lived。ItisjustlikeMagdala。
Chapter50
WedescendedfromMountTabor，crossedadeepravine，followedahilly，rockyroadtoNazareth——distanttwohours。AlldistancesintheEastaremeasuredbyhours，notmiles。Agoodhorsewillwalkthreemilesanhourovernearlyanykindofaroad;therefore，anhour，here，alwaysstandsforthreemiles。Thismethodofcomputationisbothersomeandannoying;anduntilonegetsthoroughlyaccustomedtoit，itcarriesnointelligencetohisminduntilhehasstoppedandtranslatedthepaganhoursintochristianmiles，justaspeopledowiththespokenwordsofaforeignlanguagetheyareacquaintedwith，butnotfamiliarlyenoughtocatchthemeaninginamoment。Distancestraveledbyhumanfeetarealsoestimatedbyhoursandminutes，thoughIdonotknowwhatthebaseofthecalculationis。
InConstantinopleyouask，\"HowfarisittotheConsulate？\"andtheyanswer，\"Abouttenminutes。\"\"HowfarisittotheLloyds\'Agency\'\"\"
Quarterofanhour。\"\"Howfarisittothelowerbridge？\"\"Fourminutes。\"
Icannotbepositiveaboutit，butIthinkthatthere，whenamanordersapairofpantaloons，hesayshewantsthemaquarterofaminuteinthelegsandninesecondsaroundthewaist。
TwohoursfromTabortoNazareth——andasitwasanuncommonlynarrow，crookedtrail，wenecessarilymetallthecameltrainsandjackasscaravansbetweenJerichoandJacksonvilleinthatparticularplaceandnowhereelse。
Thedonkeysdonotmattersomuch，becausetheyaresosmallthatyoucanjumpyourhorseoverthemifheisananimalofspirit，butacamelisnotjumpable。AcamelisastallasanyordinarydwellinghouseinSyria——whichistosayacamelisfromonetotwo，andsometimesnearlythreefeettallerthanagood—sizedman。Inthispartofthecountryhisloadisoftenestintheshapeofcolossalsacks——oneoneachside。Heandhiscargotakeupasmuchroomasacarriage。Thinkofmeetingthisstyleofobstructioninanarrowtrail。Thecamelwouldnotturnoutforaking。Hestalksserenelyalong，bringinghiscushionedstiltsforwardwiththelong，regularswingofapendulum，andwhateverisinthewaymustgetoutofthewaypeaceably，orbewipedoutforciblybythebulkysacks。Itwasatiresomeridetous，andperfectlyexhaustingtothehorses。