\"Ishouldthinkso。Isaid，Well，ifyouwon\'tsing，youshan\'tsleep，anyway;andifyoufellowshadletmealoneIwouldhavemadehimshinoutofGalileequickerthananyturtleeverdidyet。Butitisn\'tanymatternow——letitgo。Theskinisalloffthebackofmyneck。\"
AboutteninthemorningwehaltedatJoseph\'sPit。ThisisaruinedKhanoftheMiddleAges，inoneofwhosesidecourtsisagreatwalledandarchedpitwithwaterinit，andthispit，onetraditionsays，istheoneJoseph\'sbrethrencasthiminto。Amoreauthentictradition，aidedbythegeographyofthecountry，placesthepitinDothan，sometwodays\'
journeyfromhere。However，sincetherearemanywhobelieveinthispresentpitasthetrueone，ithasitsinterest。
ItishardtomakeachoiceofthemostbeautifulpassageinabookwhichissogemmedwithbeautifulpassagesastheBible;butitiscertainthatnotmanythingswithinitslidsmaytakerankabovetheexquisitestoryofJoseph。Whotaughtthoseancientwriterstheirsimplicityoflanguage，theirfelicityofexpression，theirpathos，andaboveall，theirfacultyofsinkingthemselvesentirelyoutofsightofthereaderandmakingthenarrativestandoutaloneandseemtotellitself？Shakspeareisalwayspresentwhenonereadshisbook;Macaulayispresentwhenwefollowthemarchofhisstatelysentences;buttheOldTestamentwritersarehiddenfromview。
IfthepitIhavebeenspeakingofistherightone，ascenetranspiredthere，longagesago，whichisfamiliartousallinpictures。ThesonsofJacobhadbeenpasturingtheirflocksnearthere。Theirfathergrewuneasyattheirlongabsence，andsentJoseph，hisfavorite，toseeifanythinghadgonewrongwiththem。Hetraveledsixorsevendays\'journey;
hewasonlyseventeenyearsold，and，boylike，hetoiledthroughthatlongstretchofthevilest，rockiest，dustiestcountryinAsia，arrayedintheprideofhisheart，hisbeautifulclawhammercoatofmanycolors。
Josephwasthefavorite，andthatwasonecrimeintheeyesofhisbrethren;
hehaddreameddreams，andinterpretedthemtoforeshadowhiselevationfaraboveallhisfamilyinthefarfuture，andthatwasanother;hewasdressedwellandhaddoubtlessdisplayedtheharmlessvanityofyouthinkeepingthefactprominentlybeforehisbrothers。Thesewerecrimeshiseldersfrettedoveramongthemselvesandproposedtopunishwhentheopportunityshouldoffer。WhentheysawhimcomingupfromtheSeaofGalilee，theyrecognizedhimandwereglad。Theysaid，\"Lo，hereisthisdreamer——letuskillhim。\"ButReubenpleadedforhislife，andtheysparedit。Buttheyseizedtheboy，andstrippedthehatedcoatfromhisbackandpushedhimintothepit。Theyintendedtolethimdiethere，butReubenintendedtoliberatehimsecretly。However，whileReubenwasawayforalittlewhile，thebrethrensoldJosephtosomeIshmaelitishmerchantswhowerejourneyingtowardsEgypt。Suchisthehistoryofthepit。Andtheself—samepitisthereinthatplace，eventothisday;andthereitwillremainuntilthenextdetachmentofimage—breakersandtombdesecratersarrivesfromtheQuakerCityexcursion，andtheywillinfalliblydigitupandcarryitawaywiththem。Forbeholdinthemisnoreverenceforthesolemnmonumentsofthepast，andwhithersoevertheygotheydestroyandsparenot。
Josephbecamerich，distinguished，powerful——astheBibleexpressesit，\"lordoverallthelandofEgypt。\"Josephwastherealking，thestrength，thebrainofthemonarchy，thoughPharaohheldthetitle。JosephisoneofthetrulygreatmenoftheOldTestament。Andhewasthenoblestandthemanliest，saveEsau。WhyshallwenotsayagoodwordfortheprincelyBedouin？Theonlycrimethatcanbebroughtagainsthimisthathewasunfortunate。WhymusteverybodypraiseJoseph\'sgreat—heartedgenerositytohiscruelbrethren，withoutstintofferventlanguage，andflingonlyareluctantboneofpraisetoEsauforhisstillsublimergenerositytothebrotherwhohadwrongedhim？JacobtookadvantageofEsau\'sconsuminghungertorobhimofhisbirthrightandthegreathonorandconsiderationthatbelongedtotheposition;bytreacheryandfalsehoodherobbedhimofhisfather\'sblessing;hemadeofhimastrangerinhishome，andawanderer。YetaftertwentyyearshadpassedawayandJacobmetEsauandfellathisfeetquakingwithfearandbeggingpiteouslytobesparedthepunishmentheknewhedeserved，whatdidthatmagnificentsavagedo？Hefelluponhisneckandembracedhim！WhenJacob——whowasincapableofcomprehendingnobilityofcharacter——stilldoubting，stillfearing，insistedupon\"findinggracewithmylord\"bythebribeofapresentofcattle，whatdidthegorgeoussonofthedesertsay？
\"Nay，Ihaveenough，mybrother;keepthatthouhastuntothyself！\"
EsaufoundJacobrich，belovedbywivesandchildren，andtravelinginstate，withservants，herdsofcattleandtrainsofcamels——buthehimselfwasstilltheuncourtedoutcastthisbrotherhadmadehim。Afterthirteenyearsofromanticmystery，thebrethrenwhohadwrongedJoseph，came，strangersinastrangeland，hungryandhumble，tobuy\"alittlefood\";andbeingsummonedtoapalace，chargedwithcrime，theybeheldinitsownertheirwrongedbrother;theyweretremblingbeggars——he，thelordofamightyempire！WhatJosephthateverlivedwouldhavethrownawaysuchachanceto\"showoff？\"Whostandsfirst——outcastEsauforgivingJacobinprosperity，orJosephonaking\'sthroneforgivingtheraggedtremblerswhosehappyrascalityplacedhimthere？
JustbeforewecametoJoseph\'sPit，wehad\"raised\"ahill，andthere，afewmilesbeforeus，withnotatreeorashrubtointerrupttheview，layavisionwhichmillionsofworshipersinthefarlandsoftheearthwouldgivehalftheirpossessionstosee——thesacredSeaofGalilee！
Thereforewetarriedonlyashorttimeatthepit。Werestedthehorsesandourselves，andfeltforafewminutestheblessedshadeoftheancientbuildings。Wewereoutofwater，butthetwoorthreescowlingArabs，withtheirlongguns，whowereidlingabouttheplace，saidtheyhadnoneandthattherewasnoneinthevicinity。Theyknewtherewasalittlebrackishwaterinthepit，buttheyveneratedaplacemadesacredbytheirancestor\'simprisonmenttoomuchtobewillingtoseeChristiandogsdrinkfromit。
ButFergusontiedragsandhandkerchiefstogethertillhemadearopelongenoughtoloweravesseltothebottom，andwedrankandthenrodeon;
andinashorttimewedismountedonthoseshoreswhichthefeetoftheSaviourhavemadeholyground。
AtnoonwetookaswimintheSeaofGalilee——ablessedprivilegeinthisroastingclimate——andthenlunchedunderaneglectedoldfig—treeatthefountaintheycallAin—et—Tin，ahundredyardsfromruinedCapernaum。
Everyrivuletthatgurglesoutoftherocksandsandsofthispartoftheworldisdubbedwiththetitleof\"fountain，\"andpeoplefamiliarwiththeHudson，thegreatlakesandtheMississippifallintotransportsofadmirationoverthem，andexhausttheirpowersofcompositioninwritingtheirpraises。Ifallthepoetryandnonsensethathavebeendischargeduponthefountainsandtheblandsceneryofthisregionwerecollectedinabook，itwouldmakeamostvaluablevolumetoburn。
Duringluncheon，thepilgrimenthusiastsofourparty，whohadbeensolight—heartedandsohappyeversincetheytouchedholygroundthattheydidlittlebutmutterincoherentrhapsodies，couldscarcelyeat，soanxiousweretheyto\"takeshipping\"andsailinverypersonuponthewatersthathadbornethevesselsoftheApostles。Theiranxietygrewandtheirexcitementaugmentedwitheveryfleetingmoment，untilmyfearswerearousedandIbegantohavemisgivingsthatintheirpresentconditiontheymightbreakrecklesslyloosefromallconsiderationsofprudenceandbuyawholefleetofshipstosailininsteadofhiringasingleoneforanhour，asquietfolkarewonttodo。Itrembledtothinkoftheruinedpursesthisday\'sperformancesmightresultin。Icouldnothelpreflectingbodinglyupontheintemperatezealwithwhichmiddle—agedmenareapttosurfeitthemselvesuponaseductivefollywhichtheyhavetastedforthefirsttime。AndyetIdidnotfeelthatIhadarighttobesurprisedatthestateofthingswhichwasgivingmesomuchconcern。Thesemenhadbeentaughtfrominfancytorevere，almosttoworship，theholyplaceswhereontheirhappyeyeswererestingnow。Formanyandmanyayearthisverypicturehadvisitedtheirthoughtsbydayandfloatedthroughtheirdreamsbynight。
Tostandbeforeitintheflesh——toseeitastheysawitnow——tosailuponthehallowedsea，andkisstheholysoilthatcompasseditabout:
thesewereaspirationstheyhadcherishedwhileagenerationdraggeditslaggingseasonsbyandleftitsfurrowsintheirfacesanditsfrostsupontheirhair。Tolookuponthispicture，andsailuponthissea，theyhadforsakenhomeanditsidolsandjourneyedthousandsandthousandsofmiles，inwearinessandtribulation。Whatwonderthatthesordidlightsofwork—dayprudenceshouldpalebeforethegloryofahopeliketheirsinthefullsplendorofitsfruition？Letthemsquandermillions！Isaid——whospeaksofmoneyatatimelikethis？
InthisframeofmindIfollowed，asfastasIcould，theeagerfootstepsofthepilgrims，andstoodupontheshoreofthelake，andswelled，withhatandvoice，thefrantichailtheysentafterthe\"ship\"thatwasspeedingby。Itwasasuccess。Thetoilersofthesearaninandbeachedtheirbarque。
Joysatuponeverycountenance。
\"Howmuch？——askhimhowmuch，Ferguson！——howmuchtotakeusall——eightofus，andyou——toBethsaida，yonder，andtothemouthofJordan，andtotheplacewheretheswinerandownintothesea——quick！——andwewanttocoastaroundeverywhere——everywhere！——alldaylong！——
Icouldsailayearinthesewaters！——andtellhimwe\'llstopatMagdalaandfinishatTiberias！——askhimhowmuch？——anything——anythingwhatever！——tellhimwedon\'tcarewhattheexpenseis！\"[Isaidtomyself，Iknewhowitwouldbe。]
Ferguson——（interpreting）——\"HesaystwoNapoleons——eightdollars。\"
Oneortwocountenancesfell。Thenapause。
\"Toomuch！——we\'llgivehimone！\"
Inevershallknowhowitwas——IshudderyetwhenIthinkhowtheplaceisgiventomiracles——butinasingleinstantoftime，asitseemedtome，thatshipwastwentypacesfromtheshore，andspeedingawaylikeafrightenedthing！Eightcrestfallencreaturesstoodupontheshore，andO，tothinkofit！this——this——afterallthatovermasteringecstacy！
Oh，shameful，shamefulending，aftersuchunseemlyboasting！Itwastoomuchlike\"Ho！letmeathim！\"followedbyaprudent\"Twoofyouholdhim——onecanholdme！\"
Instantlytherewaswailingandgnashingofteethinthecamp。ThetwoNapoleonswereoffered——moreifnecessary——andpilgrimsanddragomanshoutedthemselveshoarsewithpleadingstotheretreatingboatmentocomeback。ButtheysailedserenelyawayandpaidnofurtherheedtopilgrimswhohaddreamedalltheirlivesofsomedayskimmingoverthesacredwatersofGalileeandlisteningtoitshallowedstoryinthewhisperingsofitswaves，andhadjourneyedcountlessleaguestodoit，and——andthenconcludedthatthefarewastoohigh。ImpertinentMohammedanArabs，tothinksuchthingsofgentlemenofanotherfaith！
Well，therewasnothingtodobutjustsubmitandforegotheprivilegeofvoyagingonGenessaret，aftercominghalfaroundtheglobetotastethatpleasure。Therewasatime，whentheSaviourtaughthere，thatboatswereplentyamongthefishermenofthecoasts——butboatsandfishermenbotharegone，now;andoldJosephushadafleetofmen—of—warinthesewaterseighteencenturiesago——ahundredandthirtyboldcanoes——butthey，also，havepassedawayandleftnosign。Theybattleherenomorebysea，andthecommercialmarineofGalileenumbersonlytwosmallships，justofapatternwiththelittleskiffsthedisciplesknew。Onewaslosttousforgood——theotherwasmilesawayandfaroutofhail。SowemountedthehorsesandrodegrimlyontowardMagdala，canteringalongintheedgeofthewaterforwantofthemeansofpassingoveritHowthepilgrimsabusedeachother！Eachsaiditwastheother\'sfault，andeachinturndeniedit。Nowordwasspokenbythesinners——eventhemildestsarcasmmighthavebeendangerousatsuchatime。Sinnersthathavebeenkeptdownandhadexampleshelduptothem，andsufferedfrequentlectures，andbeensoputuponinamoralwayandinthematterofgoingslowandbeingseriousandbottlingupslang，andsocrowdedinregardtothematterofbeingproperandalwaysandforeverbehaving，thattheirliveshavebecomeaburdentothem，wouldnotlagbehindpilgrimsatsuchatimeasthis，andwinkfurtively，andbejoyful，andcommitothersuchcrimes——becauseitwouldnotoccurtothemtodoit。Otherwisetheywould。
Buttheydiddoit，though——anditdidthemaworldofgoodtohearthepilgrimsabuseeachother，too。Wetookanunworthysatisfactioninseeingthemfallout，nowandthen，becauseitshowedthattheywereonlypoorhumanpeoplelikeus，afterall。
SoweallrodedowntoMagdala，whilethegnashingofteethwaxedandwanedbyturns，andharshwordstroubledtheholycalmofGalilee。
LestanymanthinkImeantobeill—naturedwhenItalkaboutourpilgrimsasIhavebeentalking，IwishtosayinallsinceritythatIdonot。I
wouldnotlistentolecturesfrommenIdidnotlikeandcouldnotrespect;
andnoneofthesecansayIevertooktheirlecturesunkindly，orwasrestiveundertheinfliction，orfailedtotrytoprofitbywhattheysaidtome。
TheyarebettermenthanIam;Icansaythathonestly;theyaregoodfriendsofmine，too——andbesides，iftheydidnotwishtobestirredupoccasionallyinprint，whyinthemischiefdidtheytravelwithme？Theyknewme。Theyknewmyliberalway——thatIliketogiveandtake——whenitisformetogiveandotherpeopletotake。WhenoneofthemthreatenedtoleavemeinDamascuswhenIhadthecholera，hehadnorealideaofdoingit——Iknowhispassionatenatureandthegoodimpulsesthatunderlieit。
AnddidInotoverhearChurch，anotherpilgrim，sayhedidnotcarewhowentorwhostaid，hewouldstandbymetillIwalkedoutofDamascusonmyownfeetorwascarriedoutinacoffin，ifitwasayear？AnddoInotincludeChurcheverytimeIabusethepilgrims——andwouldIbelikelytospeakill—naturedlyofhim？Iwishtostirthemupandmakethemhealthy;thatisall。
WehadleftCapernaumbehindus。Itwasonlyashapelessruin。ltborenosemblancetoatown，andhadnothingaboutittosuggestthatithadeverbeenatown。Butalldesolateandunpeopledasitwas，itwasillustriousground。FromitsprangthattreeofChristianitywhosebroadarmsovershadowsomanydistantlandsto—day。AfterChristwastemptedofthedevilinthedesert，hecamehereandbeganhisteachings;andduringthethreeorfouryearshelivedafterward，thisplacewashishomealmostaltogether。
Hebegantohealthesick，andhisfamesoonspreadsowidelythatsuffererscamefromSyriaandbeyondJordan，andevenfromJerusalem，severaldays\'
journeyaway，tobecuredoftheirdiseases。Herehehealedthecenturion\'sservantandPeter\'smother—in—law，andmultitudesofthelameandtheblindandpersonspossessedofdevils;andhere，also，heraisedJairus\'sdaughterfromthedead。Hewentintoashipwithhisdisciples，andwhentheyrousedhimfromsleepinthemidstofastorm，hequietedthewindsandlulledthetroubledseatorestwithhisvoice。Hepassedovertotheotherside，afewmilesawayandrelievedtwomenofdevils，whichpassedintosomeswine。AfterhisreturnhecalledMatthewfromthereceiptofcustoms，performedsomecures，andcreatedscandalbyeatingwithpublicansandsinners。ThenhewenthealingandteachingthroughGalilee，andevenjourneyedtoTyreandSidon。Hechosethetwelvedisciples，andsentthemabroadtopreachthenewgospel。HeworkedmiraclesinBethsaidaandChorazin——villagestwoorthreemilesfromCapernaum。Itwasnearoneofthemthatthemiraculousdraftoffishesissupposedtohavebeentaken，anditwasinthedesertplacesneartheotherthathefedthethousandsbythemiraclesoftheloavesandfishes。Hecursedthemboth，andCapernaumalso，fornotrepenting，afterallthegreatworkshehaddoneintheirmidst，andprophesiedagainstthem。Theyareallinruins，now——whichisgratifyingtothepilgrims，for，asusual，theyfittheeternalwordsofgodstotheevanescentthingsofthisearth;Christ，itismoreprobable，referredtothepeople，nottheirshabbyvillagesofwigwams:hesaiditwouldbesadforthemat\"thedayofjudgment\"——andwhatbusinesshavemud—hovelsattheDayofJudgment？Itwouldnotaffecttheprophecyintheleast——itwouldneitherproveitordisproveit——ifthesetownsweresplendidcitiesnowinsteadofthealmostvanishedruinstheyare。
ChristvisitedMagdala，whichisnearbyCapernaum，andhealsovisitedCesareaPhilippi。HewentuptohisoldhomeatNazareth，andsawhisbrothersJoses，andJudas，andJames，andSimon——thosepersonswho，beingownbrotherstoJesusChrist，onewouldexpecttohearmentionedsometimes，yetwhoeversawtheirnamesinanewspaperorheardthemfromapulpit？
Whoeverinquireswhatmannerofyouthstheywere;andwhethertheysleptwithJesus，playedwithhimandrompedabouthim;quarreledwithhimconcerningtoysandtrifles;struckhiminanger，notsuspectingwhathewas？WhoeverwonderswhattheythoughtwhentheysawhimcomebacktoNazarethacelebrity，andlookedlongathisunfamiliarfacetomakesure，andthensaid，\"ItisJesus？\"Whowonderswhatpassedintheirmindswhentheysawthisbrother，（whowasonlyabrothertothem，howevermuchhemightbetoothersamysteriousstrangerwhowasagodandhadstoodfacetofacewithGodabovetheclouds，）doingstrangemiracleswithcrowdsofastonishedpeopleforwitnesses？WhowondersifthebrothersofJesusaskedhimtocomehomewiththem，andsaidhismotherandhissistersweregrievedathislongabsence，andwouldbewildwithdelighttoseehisfaceagain？WhoevergivesathoughttothesistersofJesusatall？——yethehadsisters;andmemoriesofthemmusthavestolenintohismindoftenwhenhewasill—treatedamongstrangers;whenhewashomelessandsaidhehadnotwheretolayhishead;whenalldesertedhim，evenPeter，andhestoodaloneamonghisenemies。
ChristdidfewmiraclesinNazareth，andstaidbutalittlewhile。Thepeoplesaid，\"ThistheSonofGod！Why，hisfatherisnothingbutacarpenter。Weknowthefamily。Weseethemeveryday。Arenothisbrothersnamedsoandso，andhissisterssoandso，andisnothismotherthepersontheycallMary？Thisisabsurd。\"Hedidnotcursehishome，butheshookitsdustfromhisfeetandwentaway。
Capernaumliesclosetotheedgeofthelittlesea，inasmallplainsomefivemileslongandamileortwowide，whichismildlyadornedwitholeanderswhichlookallthebettercon—trastedwiththebaldhillsandthehowlingdesertswhichsurroundthem，buttheyarenotasdeliriouslybeautifulasthebookspaintthem。Ifonebecalmandresolutehecanlookupontheircomelinessandlive。
OneofthemostastonishingthingsthathaveyetfallenunderourobservationistheexceedinglysmallportionoftheearthfromwhichsprangthenowflourishingplantofChristianity。ThelongestjourneyourSavioureverperformedwasfromheretoJerusalem——aboutonehundredtoonehundredandtwentymiles。ThenextlongestwasfromheretoSidon——sayaboutsixtyorseventymiles。Insteadofbeingwideapart——asAmericanappreciationofdistanceswouldnaturallysuggest——theplacesmademostparticularlycelebratedbythepresenceofChristarenearlyallrighthereinfullview，andwithincannon—shotofCapernaum。LeavingouttwoorthreeshortjourneysoftheSaviour，hespenthislife，preachedhisgospel，andperformedhismiracleswithinacompassnolargerthananordinarycountyintheUnitedStates。ItisasmuchasIcandotocomprehendthisstupefyingfact。Howitwearsamanouttohavetoreadupahundredpagesofhistoryeverytwoorthreemiles——forverilythecelebratedlocalitiesofPalestineoccurthatclosetogether。Howwearily，howbewilderinglytheyswarmaboutyourpath！
InduetimewereachedtheancientvillageofMagdala。
Chapter48
Magdalaisnotabeautifulplace。ItisthoroughlySyrian，andthatistosaythatitisthoroughlyugly，andcramped，squalid，uncomfortable，andfilthy——justthestyleofcitiesthathaveadornedthecountrysinceAdam\'stime，asallwritershavelaboredhardtoprove，andhavesucceeded。
ThestreetsofMagdalaareanywherefromthreetosixfeetwide，andreekingwithuncleanliness。Thehousesarefromfivetosevenfeethigh，andallbuiltupononearbitraryplan——theungracefulformofadry—goodsbox。
Thesidesaredaubedwithasmoothwhiteplaster，andtastefullyfrescoedaloftandalowwithdisksofcamel—dungplacedtheretodry。Thisgivestheedificetheromanticappearanceofhavingbeenriddledwithcannon—balls，andimpartstoitaverywarlikeaspect。Whentheartisthasarrangedhismaterialswithaneyetojustproportion——thesmallandthelargeflakesinalternaterows，andseparatedbycarefully—consideredintervals——IknowofnothingmorecheerfultolookuponthanaspiritedSyrianfresco。Theflat，plasteredroofisgarnishedbypicturesquestacksoffrescomaterials，which，havingbecomethoroughlydriedandcured，areplacedtherewhereitwillbeconvenient。Itisusedforfuel。ThereisnotimberofanyconsequenceinPalestine——noneatalltowasteuponfires——andneitherarethereanyminesofcoal。Ifmydescriptionhasbeenintelligible，youwillperceive，now，thatasquare，flat—roofedhovel，neatlyfrescoed，withitswall—topsgallantlybastionedandturretedwithdriedcamel—refuse，givestoalandscapeafeaturethatisexceedinglyfestiveandpicturesque，especiallyifoneiscarefultoremembertostickinacatwherever，aboutthepremises，thereisroomforacattosit。TherearenowindowstoaSyrianhut，andnochimneys。WhenIusedtoreadthattheyletabed—riddenmandownthroughtheroofofahouseinCapernaumtogethimintothepresenceoftheSaviour，Igenerallyhadathree—storybrickinmymind，andmarveledthattheydidnotbreakhisneckwiththestrangeexperiment。Iperceivenow，however，thattheymighthavetakenhimbytheheelsandthrownhimclearoverthehousewithoutdiscommodinghimverymuch。Palestineisnotchangedanysincethosedays，inmanners，customs，architecture，orpeople。
AswerodeintoMagdalanotasoulwasvisible。Buttheringofthehorses\'hoofsrousedthestupidpopulation，andtheyallcametroopingout——oldmenandoldwomen，boysandgirls，theblind，thecrazy，andthecrippled，allinragged，soiledandscantyraiment，andallabjectbeggarsbynature，instinctandeducation。Howthevermin—torturedvagabondsdidswarm！Howtheyshowedtheirscarsandsores，andpiteouslypointedtotheirmaimedandcrookedlimbs，andbeggedwiththeirpleadingeyesforcharity！Wehadinvokedaspiritwecouldnotlay。Theyhungtothehorses\'stails，clungtotheirmanesandthestirrups，closedinoneveryaideinscornofdangeroushoofs——andoutoftheirinfidelthroats，withoneaccord，burstanagonizingandmostinfernalchorus:\"How—ajji，bucksheesh！howajji，bucksheesh！howajji，bucksheesh！bucksheesh！bucksheesh！\"Ineverwasinastormlikethatbefore。
Aswepaidthebucksheeshouttosore—eyedchildrenandbrown，buxomgirlswithrepulsivelytattooedlipsandchins，wefiledthroughthetownandbymanyanexquisitefresco，tillwecametoabramble—infestedinclosureandaRoman—lookingruinwhichhadbeentheveritabledwellingofSt。MaryMagdalene，thefriendandfollowerofJesus。Theguidebelievedit，andsodidI。Icouldnotwelldootherwise，withthehouserighttherebeforemyeyesasplainasday。Thepilgrimstookdownportionsofthefrontwallforspecimens，asistheirhonoredcustom，andthenwedeparted。
Wearecampedinthisplace，now，justwithinthecitywallsofTiberias。
Wewentintothetownbeforenightfallandlookedatitspeople——wecarednothingaboutitshouses。Itspeoplearebestexaminedatadistance。TheyareparticularlyuncomelyJews，Arabs，andnegroes。SqualorandpovertyaretheprideofTiberias。Theyoungwomenweartheirdowerstrunguponastrongwirethatcurvesdownwardfromthetopoftheheadtothejaw——Turkishsilvercoinswhichtheyhaverakedtogetherorinherited。Mostofthesemaidenswerenotwealthy，butsomefewhadbeenverykindlydealtwithbyfortune。Isawheiressesthereworth，intheirownright——worth，well，IsupposeImightventuretosay，asmuchasninedollarsandahalf。Butsuchcasesarerare。Whenyoucomeacrossoneofthese，shenaturallyputsonairs。Shewillnotaskforbucksheesh。Shewillnotevenpermitofunduefamiliarity。Sheassumesacrushingdignityandgoesonserenelypracticingwithherfine—toothcombandquotingpoetryjustthesameasifyouwerenotpresentatall。Somepeoplecannotstandprosperity。
Theysaythatthelong—nosed，lanky，dyspeptic—lookingbody—snatchers，withtheindescribablehatson，andalongcurldanglingdowninfrontofeachear，aretheold，familiar，self—righteousPhariseeswereadofintheScriptures。Verily，theylookit。Judgingmerelybytheirgeneralstyle，andwithoutotherevidence，onemighteasilysuspectthatself—righteousnesswastheirspecialty。
FromvariousauthoritiesIhaveculledinformationconcerningTiberias。
ItwasbuiltbyHerodAntipas，themurdererofJohntheBaptist，andnamedaftertheEmperorTiberius。Itisbelievedthatitstandsuponthesiteofwhatmusthavebeen，agesago，acityofconsiderablearchitecturalpretensions，judgingbythefineporphyrypillarsthatarescatteredthroughTiberiasanddownthelakeshoresouthward。Thesewerefluted，once，andyet，althoughthestoneisaboutashardasiron，theflutingsarealmostwornaway。Thesepillarsaresmall，anddoubtlesstheedificestheyadornedweredistinguishedmoreforelegancethangrandeur。Thismoderntown——TIberias——isonlymentionedintheNewTestament;neverintheOld。
TheSanhedrimmetherelast，andforthreehundredyearsTiberiaswasthemetropolisoftheJewsinPalestine。ItisoneofthefourholycitiesoftheIsraelites，andistothemwhatMeccaistotheMohammedanandJerusalemtotheChristian。IthasbeentheabidingplaceofmanylearnedandfamousJewishrabbins。Theylieburiedhere，andnearthemliealsotwenty—fivethousandoftheirfaithwhotraveledfartobenearthemwhiletheylivedandliewiththemwhentheydied。ThegreatRabbiBenIsraelspentthreeyearshereintheearlypartofthethirdcentury。Heisdead，now。
ThecelebratedSeaofGalileeisnotsolargeaseaasLakeTahoe*byagooddeal——itisjustabouttwo—thirdsaslarge。Andwhenwecometospeakofbeauty，thisseaisnomoretobecomparedtoTahoethanameridianoflongitudeistoarainbow。ThedimwatersofthispoolcannotsuggestthelimpidbrilliancyofTahoe;theselow，shaven，yellowhillocksofrocksandsand，sodevoidofperspective，cannotsuggestthegrandpeaksthatcompassTahoelikeawall，andwhoseribbedandchasmedfrontsarecladwithstatelypinesthatseemtogrowsmallandsmallerastheyclimb，tillonemightfancythemreducedtoweedsandshrubsfarupward，wheretheyjointheeverlastingsnows。SilenceandsolitudebroodoverTahoe;andsilenceandsolitudebroodalsooverthislakeofGenessaret。Butthesolitudeoftheoneisascheerfulandfascinatingasthesolitudeoftheotherisdismalandrepellant。*ImeasurealllakesbyTahoe，partlybecauseIamfarmorefamiliarwithitthanwithanyother，andpartlybecauseIhavesuchahighadmirationforitandsuchaworldofpleasantrecollectionsofit，thatitisverynearlyimpossibleformetospeakoflakesandnotmentionit。IntheearlymorningonewatchesthesilentbattleofdawnanddarknessuponthewatersofTahoewithaplacidinterest;butwhentheshadowssulkawayandonebyonethehiddenbeautiesoftheshoreunfoldthemselvesinthefullsplendorofnoon;whenthestillsurfaceisbeltedlikearainbowwithbroadbarsofblueandgreenandwhite，halfthedistancefromcircumferencetocentre;when，inthelazysummerafternoon，heliesinaboat，farouttowherethedeadblueofthedeepwaterbegins，andsmokesthepipeofpeaceandidlywinksatthedistantcragsandpatchesofsnowfromunderhiscap—brim;whentheboatdriftsshorewardtothewhitewater，andhelollsoverthegunwaleandgazesbythehourdownthroughthecrystaldepthsandnotesthecolorsofthepebblesandreviewsthefinnyarmiesglidinginprocessionahundredfeetbelow;whenatnightheseesmoonandstars，mountainridgesfeatheredwithpines，juttingwhitecapes，boldpromontories，grandsweepsofruggedscenerytoppedwithbald，glimmeringpeaks，allmagnificentlypicturedinthepolishedmirrorofthelake，inrichest，softestdetail，thetranquilinterestthatwasbornwiththemorningdeepensanddeepens，bysuredegrees，tillitculminatesatlastinresistlessfascination！
Itissolitude，forbirdsandsquirrelsontheshoreandfishesinthewaterareallthecreaturesthatareneartomakeitotherwise，butitisnotthesortofsolitudetomakeonedreary。CometoGalileeforthat。
Iftheseunpeopleddeserts，theserustymoundsofbarrenness，thatnever，never，neverdoshaketheglarefromtheirharshoutlines，andfadeandfaintintovagueperspective;thatmelancholyruinofCapernaum;thisstupidvillageofTiberias，slumberingunderitssixfunerealplumesofpalms;
yonderdesolatedeclivitywheretheswineofthemiraclerandownintothesea，anddoubtlessthoughtitwasbettertoswallowadevilortwoandgetdrownedintothebargainthanhavetolivelongerinsuchaplace;
thiscloudless，blisteringsky;thissolemn，sailless，tintlesslake，reposingwithinitsrimofyellowhillsandlow，steepbanks，andlookingjustasexpressionlessandunpoetical（whenweleaveitssublimehistoryoutofthequestion，）asanymetropolitanreservoirinChristendom——ifthesethingsarenotfoodforrockmetosleep，mother，noneexist，Ithink。