Thismorning，duringbreakfast，theusualassemblageofsqualidhumanitysatpatientlywithoutthecharmedcircleofthecampandwaitedforsuchcrumbsaspitymightbestowupontheirmisery。Therewereoldandyoung，brown—skinnedandyellow。Someofthemenweretallandstalwart，（foronehardlyseesanywheresuchsplendid—lookingmenashereintheEast，）
butallthewomenandchildrenlookedwornandsad，anddistressedwithhunger。TheyremindedmemuchofIndians，didthesepeople。Theyhadbutlittleclothing，butsuchastheyhadwasfancifulincharacterandfantasticinitsarrangement。Anylittleabsurdgewgaworgimcracktheyhadtheydisposedinsuchawayastomakeitattractattentionmostreadily。Theysatinsilence，andwithtirelesspatiencewatchedoureverymotionwiththatvile，uncomplainingimpolitenesswhichissotrulyIndian，andwhichmakesawhitemansonervousanduncomfortableandsavagethathewantstoexterminatethewholetribe。
Thesepeopleaboutushadotherpeculiarities，whichIhavenoticedinthenobleredman，too:theywereinfestedwithvermin，andthedirthadcakedonthemtillitamountedtobark。
Thelittlechildrenwereinapitiablecondition——theyallhadsoreeyes，andwereotherwiseafflictedinvariousways。TheysaythathardlyanativechildinalltheEastisfreefromsoreeyes，andthatthousandsofthemgoblindofoneeyeorbotheveryyear。Ithinkthismustbeso，forIseeplentyofblindpeopleeveryday，andIdonotrememberseeinganychildrenthathadn\'tsoreeyes。And，wouldyousupposethatanAmericanmothercouldsitforanhour，withherchildinherarms，andletahundredfliesroostuponitseyesallthattimeundisturbed？Iseethateveryday。
Itmakesmyfleshcreep。Yesterdaywemetawomanridingonalittlejackass，andshehadalittlechildinherarms——honestly，Ithoughtthechildhadgogglesonasweapproached，andIwonderedhowitsmothercouldaffordsomuchstyle。Butwhenwedrewnear，wesawthatthegoggleswerenothingbutacampmeetingoffliesassembledaroundeachofthechild\'seyes，andatthesametimetherewasadetachmentprospectingitsnose。Theflieswerehappy，thechildwascontented，andsothemotherdidnotinterfere。
Assoonasthetribefoundoutthatwehadadoctorinourparty，theybegantoflockinfromallquarters。Dr。B。，inthecharityofhisnature，hadtakenachildfromawomanwhosatnearby，andputsomesortofawashuponitsdiseasedeyes。Thatwomanwentoffandstartedthewholenation，anditwasasighttoseethemswarm！Thelame，thehalt，theblind，theleprous——allthedistempersthatarebredofindolence，dirt，andiniquity——wererepresentedintheCongressintenminutes，andstilltheycame！Everywomanthathadasickbabybroughtitalong，andeverywomanthathadn\'t，borrowedone。Whatreverentandwhatworshipinglookstheybentuponthatdread，mysteriouspower，theDoctor！Theywatchedhimtakehisphialsout;
theywatchedhimmeasuretheparticlesofwhitepowder;theywatchedhimadddropsofonepreciousliquid，anddropsofanother;theylostnottheslightestmovement;theireyeswereriveteduponhimwithafascinationthatnothingcoulddistract。Ibelievetheythoughthewasgiftedlikeagod。Wheneachindividualgothisportionofmedicine，hiseyeswereradiantwithjoy——notwithstandingbynaturetheyareathanklessandimpassiverace——anduponhisfacewaswrittentheunquestioningfaiththatnothingonearthcouldpreventthepatientfromgettingwellnow。
Christknewhowtopreachtothesesimple，superstitious，disease—torturedcreatures:Hehealedthesick。Theyflockedtoourpoorhumandoctorthismorningwhenthefameofwhathehaddonetothesickchildwentabroadintheland，andtheyworshipedhimwiththeireyeswhiletheydidnotknowasyetwhethertherewasvirtueinhissimplesornot。Theancestorsofthese——peoplepreciselylikethemincolor，dress，manners，customs，simplicity——flockedinvastmultitudesafterChrist，andwhentheysawHimmaketheafflictedwholewithaword，itisnowondertheyworshipedHim。NowonderHisdeedswerethetalkofthenation。NowonderthemultitudethatfollowedHimwassogreatthatatonetime——thirtymilesfromhere——theyhadtoletasickmandownthroughtheroofbecausenoapproachcouldbemadetothedoor;nowonderHisaudiencesweresogreatatGalileethatHehadtopreachfromashipremovedalittledistancefromtheshore;
nowonderthateveninthedesertplacesaboutBethsaida，fivethousandinvadedHissolitude，andHehadtofeedthembyamiracleorelseseethemsufferfortheirconfidingfaithanddevotion;nowonderwhentherewasagreatcommotioninacityinthosedays，oneneighborexplainedittoanotherinwordstothiseffect:\"TheysaythatJesusofNazarethiscome！\"
Well，asIwassaying，thedoctordistributedmedicineaslongashehadanytodistribute，andhisreputationismightyinGalileethisday。
AmonghispatientswasthechildoftheShiek\'sdaughter——foreventhispoor，raggedhandfulofsoresandsinhasitsroyalShiek——apooroldmummythatlookedasifhewouldbemoreathomeinapoor—housethanintheChiefMagistracyofthistribeofhopeless，shirtlesssavages。Theprincess——I
meantheShiek\'sdaughter——wasonlythirteenorfourteenyearsold，andhadaverysweetfaceandaprettyone。ShewastheonlySyrianfemalewehaveseenyetwhowasnotsosinfullyuglythatshecouldn\'tsmileafterteno\'clockSaturdaynightwithoutbreakingtheSabbath。Herchildwasahardspecimen，though——therewasn\'tenoughofittomakeapie，andthepoorlittlethinglookedsopleadinglyupatallwhocamenearit（asifithadanideathatnowwasitschanceornever，）thatwewerefilledwithcompassionwhichwasgenuineandnotputon。
ButthislastnewhorseIhavegotistryingtobreakhisneckoverthetent—ropes，andIshallhavetogooutandanchorhim。JerichoandIhavepartedcompany。Thenewhorseisnotmuchtoboastof，Ithink。
Oneofhishindlegsbendsthewrongway，andtheotheroneisasstraightandstiffasatent—pole。Mostofhisteetharegone，andheisasblindasbat。Hisnosehasbeenbrokenatsometimeorother，andisarchedlikeaculvertnow。Hisunderliphangsdownlikeacamel\'s，andhisearsarechoppedoffclosetohishead。Ihadsometroubleatfirsttofindanameforhim，butIfinallyconcludedtocallhimBaalbec，becauseheissuchamagnificentruin。Icannotkeepfromtalkingaboutmyhorses，becauseIhaveaverylongandtediousjourneybeforeme，andtheynaturallyoccupymythoughtsaboutasmuchasmattersofapparentlymuchgreaterimportance。
WesatisfiedourpilgrimsbymakingthosehardridesfromBaalbectoDamascus，butDan\'shorseandJack\'sweresocrippledwehadtoleavethembehindandgetfreshanimalsforthem。ThedragomansaysJack\'shorsedied。
IswappedhorseswithMohammed，thekingly—lookingEgyptianwhoisourFerguson\'slieutenant。ByFergusonImeanourdragomanAbraham，ofcourse。
Ididnottakethishorseonaccountofhispersonalappearance，butbecauseIhavenotseenhisback。Idonotwishtoseeit。Ihaveseenthebacksofalltheotherhorses，andfoundmostofthemcoveredwithdreadfulsaddle—boilswhichIknowhavenotbeenwashedordoctoredforyears。Theideaofridingalldaylongoversuchghastlyin—quisitionsoftortureissickening。
Myhorsemustbeliketheothers，butIhaveatleasttheconsolationofnotknowingittobeso。
IhopethatinfutureImaybesparedanymoresentimentalpraisesoftheArab\'sidolatryofhishorse。InboyhoodIlongedtobeanArabofthedesertandhaveabeautifulmare，andcallherSelimorBenjaminorMohammed，andfeedherwithmyownhands，andlethercomeintothetent，andteachhertocaressmeandlookfondlyuponmewithhergreattendereyes;andIwishedthatastrangermightcomeatsuchatimeandoffermeahundredthousanddollarsforher，sothatIcoulddoliketheotherArabs——hesitate，yearnforthemoney，butovercomebymyloveformymare，atlastsay，\"Partwiththee，mybeautifulone！Neverwithmylife！Away，tempter，Iscornthygold！\"andthenboundintothesaddleandspeedoverthedesertlikethewind！
ButIrecallthoseaspirations。IftheseArabsbeliketheotherArabs，theirlovefortheirbeautifulmaresisafraud。Theseofmyacquaintancehavenolovefortheirhorses，nosentimentofpityforthem，andnoknowledgeofhowtotreatthemorcareforthem。TheSyriansaddle—blanketisaquiltedmattresstwoorthreeinchesthick。Itisneverremovedfromthehorse，dayornight。Itgetsfullofdirtandhair，andbecomessoakedwithsweat。
Itisboundtobreedsores。Thesepiratesneverthinkofwashingahorse\'sback。Theydonotshelterthehorsesinthetents，either——theymuststayoutandtaketheweatherasitcomes。Lookatpoorcroppedanddilapidated\"Baalbec，\"andweepforthesentimentthathasbeenwastedupontheSelimsofromance！
Chapter46
Aboutanhour\'srideoverarough，rockyroad，halffloodedwithwater，andthroughaforestofoaksofBashan，broughtustoDan。
Fromalittlemoundhereintheplainissuesabroadstreamoflimpidwaterandformsalargeshallowpool，andthenrushesfuriouslyonward，augmentedinvolume。ThispuddleisanimportantsourceoftheJordan。
Itsbanks，andthoseofthebrookarerespectablyadornedwithbloomingoleanders，buttheunutterablebeautyofthespotwillnotthrowawell—balancedmanintoconvulsions，astheSyrianbooksoftravelwouldleadonetosuppose。
FromthespotIamspeakingof，acannon—ballwouldcarrybeyondtheconfinesofHolyLandandlightuponprofanegroundthreemilesaway。Wewereonlyonelittlehour\'stravelwithinthebordersofHolyLand——wehadhardlybeguntoappreciateyetthatwewerestandinguponanydifferentsortofearththanthatwehadalwaysbeenusedto，andseehowthehistoricnamesbeganalreadytocluster！Dan——Bashan——LakeHuleh——theSourcesofJordan——theSeaofGalilee。Theywereallinsightbutthelast，anditwasnotfaraway。ThelittletownshipofBashanwasoncethekingdomsofamousinScriptureforitsbullsanditsoaks。LakeHulehistheBiblical\"WatersofMerom。\"DanwasthenorthernandBeershebathesouthernlimitofPalestine——hencetheexpression\"fromDantoBeersheba。\"Itisequivalenttoourphrases\"fromMainetoTexas\"——\"fromBaltimoretoSanFrancisco。\"
OurexpressionandthatoftheIsraelitesbothmeanthesame——greatdistance。
Withtheirslowcamelsandasses，itwasaboutasevendays\'journeyfromDantoBeersheba———sayahundredandfiftyorsixtymiles——itwastheentirelengthoftheircountry，andwasnottobeundertakenwithoutgreatpreparationandmuchceremony。WhentheProdigaltraveledto\"afarcountry，\"
itisnotlikelythathewentmorethaneightyorninetymiles。Palestineisonlyfromfortytosixtymileswide。TheStateofMissouricouldbesplitintothreePalestines，andtherewouldthenbeenoughmaterialleftforpartofanother——possiblyawholeone。FromBaltimoretoSanFranciscoisseveralthousandmiles，butitwillbeonlyasevendays\'journeyinthecarswhenIamtwoorthreeyearsolder。*IfIliveIshallnecessarilyhavetogoacrossthecontinenteverynowandtheninthosecars，butonejourneyfromDantoBeershebawillbesufficient，nodoubt。Itmustbethemosttryingofthetwo。Therefore，ifwechancetodiscoverthatfromDantoBeershebaseemedamightystretchofcountrytotheIsraelites，letusnotbeairywiththem，butreflectthatitwasandisamightystretchwhenonecannottraverseitbyrail。*Therailroadhasbeencompleted，sincetheabovewaswritten。
ThesmallmoundIhavementionedawhileagowasonceoccupiedbythePheniciancityofLaish。ApartyoffilibustersfromZorahandEscholcapturedtheplace，andlivedthereinafreeandeasyway，worshipinggodsoftheirownmanufactureandstealingidolsfromtheirneighborswhenevertheyworetheirownout。JeroboamsetupagoldencalfheretofascinatehispeopleandkeepthemfrommakingdangeroustripstoJerusalemtoworship，whichmightresultinareturntotheirrightfulallegiance。WithallrespectforthoseancientIsraelites，Icannotoverlookthefactthattheywerenotalwaysvirtuousenoughtowithstandtheseductionsofagoldencalf。
Humannaturehasnotchangedmuchsincethen。
SomefortycenturiesagothecityofSodomwaspillagedbytheArabprincesofMesopotamia，andamongotherprisonerstheyseizeduponthepatriarchLotandbroughthimhereontheirwaytotheirownpossessions。
TheybroughthimtoDan，andfatherAbraham，whowaspursuingthem，creptsoftlyinatdeadofnight，amongthewhisperingoleandersandundertheshadowsofthestatelyoaks，andfellupontheslumberingvictorsandstartledthemfromtheirdreamswiththeclashofsteel。HerecapturedLotandalltheotherplunder。
Wemovedon。Wewerenowinagreenvalley，fiveorsixmileswideandfifteenlong。ThestreamswhicharecalledthesourcesoftheJordanflowthroughittoLakeHuleh，ashallowpondthreemilesindiameter，andfromthesouthernextremityoftheLaketheconcentratedJordanflowsout。TheLakeissurroundedbyabroadmarsh，grownwithreeds。Betweenthemarshandthemountainswhichwallthevalleyisarespectablestripoffertileland;attheendofthevalley，towardDan，asmuchashalfthelandissolidandfertile，andwateredbyJordan\'ssources。Thereisenoughofittomakeafarm。ItalmostwarrantstheenthusiasmofthespiesofthatrabbleofadventurerswhocapturedDan。Theysaid:\"Wehaveseentheland，andbeholditisverygood。Aplacewherethereisnowantofanythingthatisintheearth。\"
Theirenthusiasmwasatleastwarrantedbythefactthattheyhadneverseenacountryasgoodasthis。Therewasenoughofitfortheamplesupportoftheirsixhundredmenandtheirfamilies，too。
WhenwegotfairlydownonthelevelpartoftheDanitefarm，wecametoplaceswherewecouldactuallyrunourhorses。Itwasanotablecircumstance。
Wehadbeenpainfullyclamberingoverinterminablehillsandrocksfordaystogether，andwhenwesuddenlycameuponthisastonishingpieceofrocklessplain，everymandrovethespursintohishorseandspedawaywithavelocityhecouldsurelyenjoytotheutmost，butcouldneverhopetocomprehendinSyria。
Herewereevidencesofcultivation——araresightinthiscountry——
anacreortwoofrichsoilstuddedwithlastseason\'sdeadcorn—stalksofthethicknessofyourthumbandverywideapart。Butinsuchalanditwasathrillingspectacle。Closetoitwasastream，andonitsbanksagreatherdofcurious—lookingSyriangoatsandsheepweregratefullyeatinggravel。Idonotstatethisasapetrifiedfact——Ionlysupposetheywereeatinggravel，becausetheredidnotappeartobeanythingelseforthemtoeat。TheshepherdsthattendedthemweretheverypicturesofJosephandhisbrethrenIhavenodoubtintheworld。Theyweretall，muscular，andverydark—skinnedBedouins，withinkyblackbeards。Theyhadfirmlips，unquailingeyes，andakinglystatelinessofbearing。Theyworetheparti—coloredhalfbonnet，halfhood，withfringedendsfallingupontheirshoulders，andthefull，flowingrobebarredwithbroadblackstripes——thedressoneseesinallpicturesoftheswarthysonsofthedesert。Thesechapswouldselltheiryoungerbrothersiftheyhadachance，Ithink。Theyhavethemanners，thecustoms，thedress，theoccupationandthelooseprinciplesoftheancientstock。[Theyattackedourcamplastnight，andIbearthemnogoodwill。]TheyhadwiththemthepigmyjackassesoneseesalloverSyriaandremembersinallpicturesofthe\"FlightintoEgypt，\"whereMaryandtheYoungChildareridingandJosephiswalkingalongside，toweringhighabovethelittledonkey\'sshoulders。
Butreally，herethemanridesandcarriesthechild，asageneralthing，andthewomanwalks。ThecustomshavenotchangedsinceJoseph\'stime。
WewouldnothaveinourhousesapicturerepresentingJosephridingandMarywalking;wewouldseeprofanationinit，butaSyrianChristianwouldnot。IknowthathereafterthepictureIfirstspokeofwilllookoddtome。
Wecouldnotstoptoresttwoorthreehoursoutfromourcamp，ofcourse，albeitthebrookwasbesideus。Sowewentonanhourlonger。Wesawwater，then，butnowhereinallthewastearoundwasthereafootofshade，andwewerescorchingtodeath。\"Likeuntotheshadowofagreatrockinawearyland。\"NothingintheBibleismorebeautifulthanthat，andsurelythereisnoplacewehavewanderedtothatisabletogiveitsuchtouchingexpressionasthisblistering，naked，treelessland。
Hereyoudonotstopjustwhenyouplease，butwhenyoucan。Wefoundwater，butnoshade。Wetraveledonandfoundatreeatlast，butnowater。
Werestedandlunched，andcameontothisplace，AinMellahah（theboyscallitBaldwinsville。）Itwasaveryshortday\'srun，butthedragomandoesnotwanttogofurther，andhasinventedaplausiblelieaboutthecountrybeyondthisbeinginfestedbyferociousArabs，whowouldmakesleepingintheirmidstadangerouspastime。Well，theyoughttobedangerous。Theycarryarustyoldweather—beatenflint—lockgun，withabarrelthatislongerthanthemselves;ithasnosightsonit，itwillnotcarryfartherthanabrickbat，andisnothalfsocertain。Andthegreatsashtheywearinmanyafoldaroundtheirwaistshastwoorthreeabsurdoldhorse—pistolsinitthatarerustyfrometernaldisuse——weaponsthatwouldhangfirejustaboutlongenoughforyoutowalkoutofrange，andthenburstandblowtheArab\'sheadoff。Exceedinglydangerousthesesonsofthedesertare。
ItusedtomakemybloodruncoldtoreadWm。C。Grimes\'hairbreadthescapesfromBedouins，butIthinkIcouldreadthemnowwithoutatremor。
HeneversaidhewasattackedbyBedouins，Ibelieve，orwasevertreateduncivilly，buttheninabouteveryotherchapterhediscoveredthemapproaching，anyhow，andhehadablood—curdlingfashionofworkinguptheperil;andofwonderinghowhisrelationsfarawaywouldfeelcouldtheyseetheirpoorwanderingboy，withhiswearyfeetandhisdimeyes，insuchfearfuldanger;andofthinkingforthelasttimeoftheoldhomestead，andthedearoldchurch，andthecow，andthosethings;andoffinallystraighteninghisformtoitsutmostheightinthesaddle，drawinghistrustyrevolver，andthendashingthespursinto\"Mohammed\"andsweepingdownupontheferociousenemydeterminedtosellhislifeasdearlyaspossible。TruetheBedouinsneverdidanythingtohimwhenhearrived，andneverhadanyintentionofdoinganythingtohiminthefirstplace，andwonderedwhatinthemischiefhewasmakingallthatto—doabout;butstillIcouldnotdivestmyselfoftheidea，somehow，thatafrightfulperilhadbeenescapedthroughthatman\'sdare—devilbravery，andsoInevercouldreadaboutWm。C。Grimes\'
Bedouinsandsleepcomfortablyafterward。ButIbelievetheBedouinstobeafraud，now。Ihaveseenthemonster，andIcanoutrunhim。Ishallneverbeafraidofhisdaringtostandbehindhisowngunanddischargeit。
AboutfifteenhundredyearsbeforeChrist，thiscamp—groundofoursbytheWatersofMeromwasthesceneofoneofJoshua\'sexterminatingbattles。
Jabin，KingofHazor，（upyonderaboveDan，）calledallthesheiksabouthimtogether，withtheirhosts，tomakereadyforIsrael\'sterribleGeneralwhowasapproaching。\"AndwhenalltheseKingsweremettogether，theycameandpitchedtogetherbytheWatersofMerom，tofightagainstIsrael。\"Andtheywentout，theyandalltheirhostswiththem，muchpeople，evenasthesandthatisuponthesea—shoreformultitude，\"etc。ButJoshuafelluponthemandutterlydestroyedthem，rootandbranch。
Thatwashisusualpolicyinwar。Heneverleftanychancefornewspapercontroversiesaboutwhowonthebattle。Hemadethisvalley，soquietnow，areekingslaughter—pen。
Somewhereinthispartofthecountry——Idonotknowexactlywhere——Israelfoughtanotherbloodybattleahundredyearslater。Deborah，theprophetess，toldBaraktotaketenthousandmenandsallyforthagainstanotherKingJabinwhohadbeendoingsomething。BarakcamedownfromMountTabor，twentyortwenty—fivemilesfromhere，andgavebattletoJabin\'sforces，whowereincommandofSisera。Barakwonthefight，andwhilehewasmakingthevictorycompletebytheusualmethodofexterminatingtheremnantofthedefeatedhost，Siserafledawayonfoot，andwhenhewasnearlyexhaustedbyfatigueandthirst，oneJael，awomanheseemstohavebeenacquaintedwith，invitedhimtocomeintohertentandresthimself。
Thewearysoldieraccededreadilyenough，andJaelputhimtobed。Hesaidhewasverythirsty，andaskedhisgenerouspreservertogethimacupofwater。Shebroughthimsomemilk，andhedrankofitgratefullyandlaydownagain，toforgetinpleasantdreamshislostbattleandhishumbledpride。Presentlywhenhewasasleepshecamesoftlyinwithahammeranddroveahideoustent—pendownthroughhisbrain！
\"Forhewasfastasleepandweary。Sohedied。\"SuchisthetouchinglanguageoftheBible。\"TheSongofDeborahandBarak\"praisesJaelforthememorableserviceshehadrendered，inanexultantstrain:\"BlessedabovewomenshallJaelthewifeofHebertheKenitebe，blessedshallshebeabovewomeninthetent。\"Heaskedforwater，andshegavehimmilk;shebroughtforthbutterinalordlydish。\"Sheputherhandtothenail，andherrighthandtotheworkman\'shammer;andwiththehammershesmoteSisera，shesmoteoffhisheadwhenshehadpiercedandstrickenthroughhistemples。\"Atherfeethebowed，hefell，helaydown:atherfeethebowed，hefell:wherehebowed，therehefelldowndead。\"Stirringscenesliketheseoccurinthisvalleynomore。Thereisnotasolitaryvillagethroughoutitswholeextent——notforthirtymilesineitherdirection。TherearetwoorthreesmallclustersofBedouintents，butnotasinglepermanenthabitation。Onemayridetenmiles，hereabouts，andnotseetenhumanbeings。
Tothisregiononeofthepropheciesisapplied:Iwillbringthelandintodesolation;andyourenemieswhichdwellthereinshallbeastonishedatit。AndIwillscatteryouamongtheheathen，andIwilldrawoutaswordafteryou;andyourlandshallbedesolateandyourcitieswaste。\"NomancanstandherebydesertedAinMellahahandsaytheprophecyhasnotbeenfulfilled。
InaversefromtheBiblewhichIhavequotedabove，occursthephraseþallthesekings。\"Itattractedmyattentioninamoment，becauseitcarriestomymindsuchavastlydifferentsignificancefromwhatitalwaysdidathome。IcanseeeasilyenoughthatifIwishtoprofitbythistourandcometoacorrectunderstandingofthemattersofinterestconnectedwithit，ImuststudiouslyandfaithfullyunlearnagreatmanythingsIhavesomehowabsorbedconcerningPalestine。Imustbeginasystemofreduction。LikemygrapeswhichthespiesboreoutofthePromisedLand，IhavegoteverythinginPalestineontoolargeascale。Someofmyideaswerewildenough。ThewordPalestinealwaysbroughttomymindavaguesuggestionofacountryaslargeastheUnitedStates。Idonotknowwhy，butsuchwasthecase。IsupposeitwasbecauseIcouldnotconceiveofasmallcountryhavingsolargeahistory。IthinkIwasalittlesurprisedtofindthatthegrandSultanofTurkeywasamanofonlyordinarysize。
ImusttrytoreducemyideasofPalestinetoamorereasonableshape。
Onegetslargeimpressionsinboyhood，sometimes，whichhehastofightagainstallhislife。\"Allthesekings。\"WhenIusedtoreadthatinSundaySchool，itsuggestedtometheseveralkingsofsuchcountriesasEngland，France，Spain，Germany，Russia，etc。，arrayedinsplendidrobesablazewithjewels，marchingingraveprocession，withsceptresofgoldintheirhandsandflashingcrownsupontheirheads。ButhereinAinMellahah，aftercomingthroughSyria，andaftergivingseriousstudytothecharacterandcustomsofthecountry，thephrase\"allthesekings\"losesitsgrandeur。
Itsuggestsonlyaparcelofpettychiefs——ill—cladandill—conditionedsavagesmuchlikeourIndians，wholivedinfullsightofeachotherandwhose\"kingdoms\"werelargewhentheywerefivemilessquareandcontainedtwothousandsouls。Thecombinedmonarchiesofthethirty\"kings\"destroyedbyJoshuaononeofhisfamouscampaigns，onlycoveredanareaaboutequaltofourofourcountiesofordinarysize。ThepooroldsheikwesawatCesareaPhilippiwithhisraggedbandofahundredfollowers，wouldhavebeencalleda\"king\"inthoseancienttimes。
Itisseveninthemorning，andasweareinthecountry，thegrassoughttobesparklingwithdew，theflowersenrich—ingtheairwiththeirfragrance，andthebirdssinginginthetrees。Butalas，thereisnodewhere，norflowers，norbirds，nortrees。Thereisaplainandanunshadedlake，andbeyondthemsomebarrenmountains。Thetentsaretumbling，theArabsarequarrelinglikedogsandcats，asusual，thecampgroundisstrewnwithpackagesandbundles，thelaborofpackingthemuponthebacksofthemulesisprogressingwithgreatactivity，thehorsesaresaddled，theumbrellasareout，andintenminutesweshallmountandthelongprocessionwillmoveagain。ThewhitecityoftheMellahah，resurrectedforamomentoutofthedeadcenturies，willhavedisappearedagainandleftnosign。
Chapter47
Wetraversedsomemilesofdesolatecountrywhosesoilisrichenough，butisgivenoverwhollytoweeds——asilent，mournfulexpanse，whereinwesawonlythreepersons——Arabs，withnothingonbutalongcoarseshirtlikethe\"tow—linen\"shirtswhichusedtoformtheonlysummergarmentoflittlenegroboysonSouthernplantations。Shepherdstheywere，andtheycharmedtheirflockswiththetraditionalshepherd\'spipe——areedinstrumentthatmademusicasexquisitelyinfernalasthesesameArabscreatewhentheysing。
IntheirpipeslingerednoechoofthewonderfulmusictheshepherdforefathersheardinthePlainsofBethlehemwhattimetheangelssang\"Peaceonearth，goodwilltomen。\"
Partofthegroundwecameoverwasnotgroundatall，butrocks——
cream—coloredrocks，wornsmooth，asifbywater;withseldomanedgeoracorneronthem，butscoopedout，honey—combed，boredoutwitheye—holes，andthuswroughtintoallmannerofquaintshapes，amongwhichtheuncouthimitationofskullswasfrequent。OverthispartoftheroutewereoccasionalremainsofanoldRomanroadliketheAppianWay，whosepaving—stonesstillclungtotheirplaceswithRomantenacity。
Graylizards，thoseheirsofruin，ofsepulchresanddesolation，glidedinandoutamongtherocksorlaystillandsunnedthemselves。Whereprosperityhasreigned，andfallen;wheregloryhasflamed，andgoneout;wherebeautyhasdwelt，andpassedaway;wheregladnesswas，andsorrowis;wherethepompoflifehasbeen，andsilenceanddeathbroodinitshighplaces，therethisreptilemakeshishome，andmocksathumanvanity。Hiscoatisthecolorofashes:andashesarethesymbolofhopesthathaveperished，ofaspirationsthatcametonought，oflovesthatareburied。Ifhecouldspeak，hewouldsay，Buildtemples:Iwilllorditintheirruins;buildpalaces:Iwillinhabitthem;erectempires:Iwillinheritthem;buryyourbeautiful:Iwillwatchthewormsattheirwork;andyou，whostandhereandmoralizeoverme:Iwillcrawloveryourcorpseatthelast。
Afewantswereinthisdesertplace，butmerelytospendthesummer。
TheybroughttheirprovisionsfromAinMellahah——elevenmiles。
Jackisnotverywellto—day，itiseasytosee;butboyasheis，heistoomuchofamantospeakofit。Heexposedhimselftothesuntoomuchyesterday，butsinceitcameofhisearnestdesiretolearn，andtomakethisjourneyasusefulastheopportunitieswillallow，nooneseekstodiscouragehimbyfault—finding。Wemissedhimanhourfromthecamp，andthenfoundhimsomedistanceaway，bytheedgeofabrook，andwithnoumbrellatoprotecthimfromthefiercesun。Ifhehadbeenusedtogoingwithouthisumbrella，itwouldhavebeenwellenough，ofcourse;
buthewasnot。Hewasjustintheactofthrowingaclodatamud—turtlewhichwassunningitselfonasmallloginthebrook。Wesaid:
\"Don\'tdothat，Jack。Whatdoyouwanttoharmhimfor？Whathashedone？\"
\"Well，then，Iwon\'tkillhim，butIoughtto，becauseheisafraud。\"
Weaskedhimwhy，buthesaiditwasnomatter。Weaskedhimwhy，onceortwice，aswewalkedbacktothecampbuthestillsaiditwasnomatter。
Butlateatnight，whenhewassittinginathoughtfulmoodonthebed，weaskedhimagainandhesaid:
\"Well，itdon\'tmatter;Idon\'tminditnow，butIdidnotlikeitto—day，youknow，becauseIdon\'ttellanythingthatisn\'tso，andIdon\'tthinktheColoneloughtto，either。Buthedid;hetoldusatprayersinthePilgrims\'tent，lastnight，andheseemedasifhewasreadingitoutoftheBible，too，aboutthiscountryflowingwithmilkandhoney，andaboutthevoiceoftheturtlebeingheardintheland。Ithoughtthatwasdrawingitalittlestrong，abouttheturtles，anyhow，butIaskedMr。
Churchifitwasso，andhesaiditwas，andwhatMr。Churchtellsme，Ibelieve。ButIsatthereandwatchedthatturtlenearlyanhourto—day，andIalmostburnedupinthesun;butIneverheardhimsing。IbelieveIsweatedadoublehandfulofsweat———IknowIdid——becauseitgotinmyeyes，anditwasrunningdownovermynoseallthetime;andyouknowmypantsaretighterthananybodyelse\'s——Parisfoolishness——andthebuckskinseatofthemgotwetwithsweat，andthengotdryagainandbegantodrawupandpinchandtearloose——itwasawful——butI
neverheardhimsing。FinallyIsaid，Thisisafraud——thatiswhatitis，itisafraud——andifIhadhadanysenseImighthaveknownacursedmud—turtlecouldn\'tsing。AndthenIsaid，Idon\'twishtobehardonthisfellow，andIwilljustgivehimtenminutestocommence;tenminutes——
andthenifhedon\'t，downgoeshisbuilding。Buthedidn\'tcommence，youknow。Ihadstaidthereallthattime，thinkingmaybehemight，prettysoon，becausehekeptonraisinghisheadupandlettingitdown，anddrawingtheskinoverhiseyesforaminuteandthenopeningthemoutagain，asifhewastryingtostudyupsomethingtosing，butjustasthetenminuteswereupandIwasallbeatoutandblistered，helaidhisblamedheaddownonaknotandwentfastasleep。\"
\"Itwasalittlehard，afteryouhadwaitedsolong。\"