Fromhishighperch，oneseesbeforehimandbelowhim，awallofdrearymountains，shornofvegetation，glaringfiercelyinthesun;itfencesinaleveldesertofyellowsand，smoothasvelvetandthreadedfarawaywithfinelinesthatstandforroads，anddottedwithcreepingmitesweknowarecamel—trainsandjourneyingmen;rightinthemidstofthedesertisspreadabillowyexpanseofgreenfoliage;andnestlinginitsheartsitsthegreatwhitecity，likeanislandofpearlsandopalsgleamingoutofaseaofemeralds。Thisisthepictureyouseespreadfarbelowyou，withdistancetosoftenit，thesuntoglorifyit，strongcontraststoheightentheeffects，andoveritandaboutitadrowsingairofreposetospiritualizeitandmakeitseemratherabeautifulestrayfromthemysteriousworldswevisitindreamsthanasubstantialtenantofourcoarse，dullglobe。Andwhenyouthinkoftheleaguesofblighted，blasted，sandy，rocky，sun—burnt，ugly，dreary，infamouscountryyouhaveriddenovertogethere，youthinkitisthemostbeautiful，beautifulpicturethateverhumaneyesresteduponinallthebroaduniverse！IfIweretogotoDamascusagain，IwouldcamponMahomet\'shillaboutaweek，andthengoaway。Thereisnoneedtogoinsidethewalls。TheProphetwaswisewithoutknowingitwhenhedecidednottogodownintotheparadiseofDamascus。
ThereisanhonoredoldtraditionthattheimmensegardenwhichDamascusstandsinwastheGardenofEden，andmodernwritershavegatheredupmanychaptersofevidencetendingtoshowthatitreallywastheGardenofEden，andthattheriversPharparandAbanaarethe\"tworivers\"thatwateredAdam\'sParadise。Itmaybeso，butitisnotparadisenow，andonewouldbeashappyoutsideofitashewouldbelikelytobewithin。Itissocrookedandcrampedanddirtythatonecannotrealizethatheisinthesplendidcityhesawfromthehill—top。Thegardensarehiddenbyhighmud—walls，andtheparadiseisbecomeaverysinkofpollutionanduncomeliness。
Damascushasplentyofclear，purewaterinit，though，andthisisenough，ofitself，tomakeanArabthinkitbeautifulandblessed。WaterisscarceinblisteredSyria。WerunrailwaysbyourlargecitiesinAmerica;inSyriatheycurvetheroadssoastomakethemrunbythemeagrelittlepuddlestheycall\"fountains，\"andwhicharenotfoundofteneronajourneythaneveryfourhours。Butthe\"rivers\"ofPharparandAbanaofScripture（merecreeks，）runthroughDamascus，andsoeveryhouseandeverygardenhavetheirsparklingfountainsandrivuletsofwater。Withherforestoffoliageandherabundanceofwater，DamascusmustbeawonderofwonderstotheBedouinfromthedeserts。Damascusissimplyanoasis——thatiswhatitis。Forfourthousandyearsitswatershavenotgonedryoritsfertilityfailed。Nowwecanunderstandwhythecityhasexistedsolong。Itcouldnotdie。Solongasitswatersremaintoitawayoutthereinthemidstofthathowlingdesert，solongwillDamascuslivetoblessthesightofthetiredandthirstywayfarer。\"Thougholdashistoryitself，thouartfreshasthebreathofspring，bloomingasthineownrose—bud，andfragrantasthineownorangeflower，ODamascus，pearloftheEast！\"DamascusdatesbackanteriortothedaysofAbraham，andistheoldestcityintheworld。ItwasfoundedbyUz，thegrandsonofNoah。\"TheearlyhistoryofDamascusisshroudedinthemistsofahoaryantiquity。\"LeavethematterswrittenofinthefirstelevenchaptersoftheOldTestamentout，andnorecordedeventhasoccurredintheworldbutDamascuswasinexistencetoreceivethenewsofit。Gobackasfarasyouwillintothevaguepast，therewasalwaysaDamascus。Inthewritingsofeverycenturyformorethanfourthousandyears，itsnamehasbeenmentionedanditspraisessung。ToDamascus，yearsareonlymoments，decadesareonlyflittingtriflesoftime。Shemeasurestime，notbydaysandmonthsandyears，butbytheempiresshehasseenrise，andprosperandcrumbletoruin。Sheisatypeofimmortality。ShesawthefoundationsofBaalbec，andThebes，andEphesuslaid;shesawthesevillagesgrowintomightycities，andamazetheworldwiththeirgrandeur——andshehaslivedtoseethemdesolate，deserted，andgivenovertotheowlsandthebats。ShesawtheIsraelitishempireexalted，andshesawitannihilated。ShesawGreecerise，andflourishtwothousandyears，anddie。InheroldageshesawRomebuilt;shesawitovershadowtheworldwithitspower;shesawitperish。ThefewhundredsofyearsofGenoeseandVenetianmightandsplendorwere，tograveoldDamascus，onlyatriflingscintillationhardlyworthremembering。Damascushasseenallthathaseveroccurredonearth，andstillshelives。Shehaslookeduponthedrybonesofathousandempires，andwillseethetombsofathousandmorebeforeshedies。Thoughanotherclaimsthename，oldDamascusisbyrighttheEternalCity。
Wereachedthecitygatesjustatsundown。TheydosaythatonecangetintoanywalledcityofSyria，afternight，forbucksheesh，exceptDamascus。ButDamascus，withitsfourthousandyearsofrespectabilityintheworld，hasmanyoldfogynotions。Therearenostreetlampsthere，andthelawcompelsallwhogoabroadatnighttocarrylanterns，justaswasthecaseinolddays，whenheroesandheroinesoftheArabianNightswalkedthestreetsofDamascus，orflewawaytowardBagdadonenchantedcarpets。
Itwasfairlydarkafewminutesafterwegotwithinthewall，andwerodelongdistancesthroughwonderfullycrookedstreets，eighttotenfeetwide，andshutinoneitheraidebythehighmud—wallsofthegardens。
Atlastwegottowherelanternscouldbeseenflittingabouthereandthere，andknewwewereinthemidstofthecuriousoldcity。Inalittlenarrowstreet，crowdedwithourpack—mulesandwithaswarmofuncouthArabs，wealighted，andthroughakindofaholeinthewallenteredthehotel。Westoodinagreatflaggedcourt，withflowersandcitrontreesaboutus，andahugetankinthecentrethatwasreceivingthewatersofmanypipes。Wecrossedthecourtandenteredtheroomspreparedtoreceivefourofus。Inalargemarble—pavedrecessbetweenthetworoomswasatankofclear，coolwater，whichwaskeptrunningoverallthetimebythestreamsthatwerepouringintoitfromhalfadozenpipes。Nothing，inthisscorching，desolatelandcouldlooksorefreshingasthispurewaterflashinginthelamp—light;nothingcouldlooksobeautiful，nothingcouldsoundsodeli—ciousasthismimicraintoearslongunaccustomedtosoundsofsuchanature。Ourroomswerelarge，comfortablyfurnished，andevenhadtheirfloorsclothedwithsoft，cheerful—tintedcarpets。Itwasapleasantthingtoseeacarpetagain，forifthereisanythingdrearierthanthetomb—like，stone—pavedparlorsandbed—roomsofEuropeandAsia，Idonotknowwhatitis。Theymakeonethinkofthegraveallthetime。
Averybroad，gailycaparisoneddivan，sometwelveorfourteenfeetlong，extendedacrossonesideofeachroom，andoppositeweresinglebedswithspringmattresses。Thereweregreatlooking—glassesandmarble—toptables。
Allthisluxurywasasgratefultosystemsandsenseswornoutwithanexhaustingday\'stravel，asitwasunexpected——foronecannottellwhattoexpectinaTurkishcityofevenaquarterofamillioninhabitants。
Idonotknow，butIthinktheyusedthattankbetweentheroomstodrawdrinkingwaterfrom;thatdidnotoccurtome，however，untilIhaddippedmybakingheadfardownintoitscooldepths。Ithoughtofitthen，andsuperbasthebathwas，IwassorryIhadtakenit，andwasabouttogoandexplaintothelandlord。Butafinelycurledandscentedpoodledogfriskedupandnippedthecalfofmylegjustthen，andbeforeIhadtimetothink，Ihadsousedhimtothebottomofthetank，andwhenIsawaservantcomingwithapitcherIwentoffandleftthepuptryingtoclimboutandnotsucceedingverywell。SatisfiedrevengewasallIneededtomakemeperfectlyhappy，andwhenIwalkedintosupperthatfirstnightinDamascusIwasinthatcondition。Welayonthosedivansalongtime，aftersupper，smokingnarghiliesandlong—stemmedchibouks，andtalkingaboutthedreadfulrideoftheday，andIknewthenwhatIhadsometimesknownbefore——thatitisworthwhiletogettiredout，becauseonesoenjoysrestingafterward。
Inthemorningwesentfordonkeys。Itisworthyofnotethatwehadtosendforthesethings。IsaidDamascuswasanoldfossil，andsheis。Anywhereelsewewouldhavebeenassailedbyaclamorousarmyofdonkey—drivers，guides，peddlersandbeggars——butinDamascustheysohatetheverysightofaforeignChristianthattheywantnointercoursewhateverwithhim;onlyayearortwoago，hispersonwasnotalwayssafeinDamascusstreets。ItisthemostfanaticalMohammedanpurgatoryoutofArabia。WhereyouseeonegreenturbanofaHadjielsewhere（thehonoredsignthatmylordhasmadethepilgrimagetoMecca，）IthinkyouwillseeadozeninDamascus。TheDamascenesaretheugliest，wickedestlookingvillainswehaveseen。Alltheveiledwomenwehadseenyet，nearly，lefttheireyesexposed，butnumbersoftheseinDamascuscompletelyhidthefaceunderaclose—drawnblackveilthatmadethewomanlooklikeamummy。
IfeverwecaughtaneyeexposeditwasquicklyhiddenfromourcontaminatingChristianvision;thebeggarsactuallypassedusbywithoutdemandingbucksheesh;
themerchantsinthebazaarsdidnotholduptheirgoodsandcryouteagerly，\"Hey，John！\"or\"Lookthis，Howajji！\"Onthecontrary，theyonlyscowledatusandsaidneveraword。
ThenarrowstreetsswarmedlikeahivewithmenandwomeninstrangeOrientalcostumes，andoursmalldonkeysknockedthemrightandleftasweplowedthroughthem，urgedonbythemercilessdonkey—boys。Thesepersecutorsrunaftertheanimals，shoutingandgoadingthemforhourstogether;theykeepthedonkeyinagallopalways，yetnevergettiredthemselvesorfallbehind。Thedonkeysfelldownandspiltusovertheirheadsoccasionally，buttherewasnothingforitbuttomountandhurryonagain。Wewerebangedagainstsharpcorners，loadedporters，camels，andcitizensgenerally;
andweweresotakenupwithlookingoutforcollisionsandcasualtiesthatwehadnochancetolookaboutusatall。Werodehalfthroughthecityandthroughthefamous\"streetwhichiscalledStraight\"withoutseeinganything，hardly。Ourboneswerenearlyknockedoutofjoint，wewerewildwithexcitement，andoursidesachedwiththejoltingwehadsuffered。
IdonotlikeridingintheDamascusstreet—cars。
WewereonourwaytothereputedhousesofJudasandAnanias。Abouteighteenornineteenhundredyearsago，Saul，anativeofTarsus，wasparticularlybitteragainstthenewsectcalledChristians，andheleftJerusalemandstartedacrossthecountryonafuriouscrusadeagainstthem。Hewentforth\"breathingthreateningsandslaughteragainstthedisciplesoftheLord。\"\"Andashejourneyed，hecamenearDamascus，andsuddenlythereshinedroundabouthimalightfromheaven:\"Andhefelltotheearthandheardavoicesayinguntohim，\'Saul，Saul，whypersecutestthoume？\'\"AndwhenheknewthatitwasJesusthatspoketohimhetrembled，andwasastonished，andsaid，\'Lord，whatwiltthouhavemetodo？\"\'Hewastoldtoariseandgointotheancientcityandonewouldtellhimwhattodo。Inthemeantimehissoldiersstoodspeechlessandawe—stricken，fortheyheardthemysteriousvoicebutsawnoman。Saulroseupandfoundthatthatfiercesupernaturallighthaddestroyedhissight，andhewasblind，so\"theyledhimbythehandandbroughthimtoDamascus。\"Hewasconverted。
Paullaythreedays，blind，inthehouseofJudas，andduringthattimeheneitheratenordrank。
TherecameavoicetoacitizenofDamascus，namedAnanias，saying，\"Arise，andgointothestreetwhichiscalledStraight，andinquireatthehouseofJudas，foronecalledSaul，ofTarsus;forbehold，heprayeth。\"
Ananiasdidnotwishtogoatfirst，forhehadheardofSaulbefore，andhehadhisdoubtsaboutthatstyleofa\"chosenvessel\"topreachthegospelofpeace。However，inobediencetoorders，hewentintothe\"streetcalledStraight\"（howhefoundhiswayintoit，andafterhedid，howheeverfoundhiswayoutofitagain，aremysteriesonlytobeaccountedforbythefactthathewasactingunderDivineinspiration。）HefoundPaulandrestoredhim，andordainedhimapreacher;andfromthisoldhousewehadhuntedupinthestreetwhichismiscalledStraight，hehadstartedoutonthatboldmissionarycareerwhichheprosecutedtillhisdeath。
ItwasnotthehouseofthedisciplewhosoldtheMasterforthirtypiecesofsilver。ImakethisexplanationinjusticetoJudas，whowasafardifferentsortofmanfromthepersonjustreferredto。Averydifferentstyleofman，andlivedinaverygoodhouse。Itisapitywedonotknowmoreabouthim。
Ihavegiven，intheaboveparagraphs，somemoreinformationforpeoplewhowillnotreadBiblehistoryuntiltheyaredefraudedintoitbysomesuchmethodasthis。Ihopethatnofriendofprogressandeducationwillobstructorinterferewithmypeculiarmission。
ThestreetcalledStraightisstraighterthanacorkscrew，butnotasstraightasarainbow。St。Lukeiscarefulnottocommithimself;hedoesnotsayitisthestreetwhichisstraight，butthe\"streetwhichiscalledStraight。\"Itisafinepieceofirony;itistheonlyfacetiousremarkintheBible，Ibelieve。WetraversedthestreetcalledStraightagoodway，andthenturnedoffandcalledatthereputedhouseofAnanias。Thereissmallquestionthatapartoftheoriginalhouseistherestill;itisanoldroomtwelveorfifteenfeetunderground，anditsmasonryisevidentlyancient。IfAnaniasdidnotlivethereinSt。
Paul\'stime，somebodyelsedid，whichisjustaswell。ItookadrinkoutofAnanias\'well，andsingularlyenough，thewaterwasjustasfreshasifthewellhadbeendugyesterday。
WewentouttowardthenorthendofthecitytoseetheplacewherethedisciplesletPauldownovertheDamascuswallatdeadofnight——forhepreachedChristsofearlesslyinDamascusthatthepeoplesoughttokillhim，justastheywouldto—dayforthesameoffense，andhehadtoescapeandfleetoJerusalem。
ThenwecalledatthetombofMahomet\'schildrenandatatombwhichpurportedtobethatofSt。Georgewhokilledthedragon，andsoonouttothehollowplaceunderarockwherePaulhidduringhisflighttillhispursuersgavehimup;andtothemausoleumofthefivethousandChristianswhoweremassacredinDamascusin1861bytheTurks。Theysaythosenarrowstreetsranbloodforseveraldays，andthatmen，womenandchildrenwerebutcheredindiscriminatelyandlefttorotbyhundredsallthroughtheChristianquarter;theysay，further，thatthestenchwasdreadful。AlltheChristianswhocouldgetawayfledfromthecity，andtheMohammedanswouldnotdefiletheirhandsbyburyingthe\"infideldogs。\"ThethirstforbloodextendedtothehighlandsofHermonandAnti—Lebanon，andinashorttimetwenty—fivethousandmoreChristiansweremassacredandtheirpossessionslaidwaste。HowtheyhateaChristianinDamascus！——andprettymuchalloverTurkeydomaswell。AndhowtheywillpayforitwhenRussiaturnshergunsuponthemagain！
ItissoothingtothehearttoabuseEnglandandFranceforinterposingtosavetheOttomanEmpirefromthedestructionithassorichlydeservedforathousandyears。Ithurtsmyvanitytoseethesepagansrefusetoeatoffoodthathasbeencookedforus;ortoeatfromadishwehaveeatenfrom;ortodrinkfromagoatskinwhichwehavepollutedwithourChristianlips，exceptbyfilteringthewaterthrougharagwhichtheyputoverthemouthofitorthroughasponge！IneverdislikedaChinamanasIdothesedegradedTurksandArabs，andwhenRussiaisreadytowarwiththemagain，IhopeEnglandandFrancewillnotfinditgoodbreedingorgoodjudgmenttointerfere。
InDamascustheythinktherearenosuchriversinalltheworldastheirlittleAbanaandPharpar。TheDamasceneshavealwaysthoughtthatway。In2Kings，chapterv。，Naamanboastsextravagantlyaboutthem。Thatwasthreethou—sandyearsago。Hesays:\"ArenotAbanaandPharparriversofDamascus，betterthanallthewatersofIsrael？MayInotwashinthemandbeclean？\"ButsomeofmyreadershaveforgottenwhoNaamanwas，longago。NaamanwasthecommanderoftheSyrianarmies。Hewasthefavoriteofthekingandlivedingreatstate。\"Hewasamightymanofvalor，buthewasaleper。\"Strangelyenough，thehousetheypointouttoyounowashis，hasbeenturnedintoaleperhospital，andtheinmatesexposetheirhorriddeformitiesandholduptheirhandsandbegforbucksheeshwhenastrangerenters。
Onecannotappreciatethehorrorofthisdiseaseuntilhelooksuponitinallitsghastliness，inNaaman\'sancientdwellinginDamascus。Bonesalltwistedoutofshape，greatknotsprotrudingfromfaceandbody，jointsdecayinganddroppingaway——horrible！
Chapter45
Thelasttwenty—fourhourswestaidinDamascusIlayprostratewithaviolentattackofcholera，orcholeramorbus，andthereforehadagoodchanceandagoodexcusetoliethereonthatwidedivanandtakeanhonestrest。Ihadnothingtodobutlistentothepatteringofthefountainsandtakemedicineandthrowitupagain。Itwasdangerousrecreation，butitwaspleasanterthantravelinginSyria。IhadplentyofsnowfromMountHermon，andasitwouldnotstayonmystomach，therewasnothingtointerferewithmyeatingit——therewasalwaysroomformore。Ienjoyedmyselfverywell。Syriantravelhasitsinterestingfeatures，liketravelinanyotherpartoftheworld，andyettobreakyourlegorhavethecholeraaddsawelcomevarietytoit。
WeleftDamascusatnoonandrodeacrosstheplainacoupleofhours，andthenthepartystoppedawhileintheshadeofsomefig—treestogivemeachancetorest。Itwasthehottestdaywehadseenyet——thesun—flamesshotdownliketheshaftsoffirethatstreamoutbeforeablow—pipe——theraysseemedtofallinasteadydelugeontheheadandpassdownwardlikerainfromaroof。IimaginedIcoulddistinguishbetweenthefloodsofrays——IthoughtIcouldtellwheneachfloodstruckmyhead，whenitreachedmyshoulders，andwhenthenextonecame。Itwasterrible。Allthedesertglaredsofiercelythatmyeyeswereswimmingintearsallthetime。Theboyshadwhiteumbrellasheavilylinedwithdarkgreen。Theywereapricelessblessing。IthankedfortunethatIhadone，too，notwithstandingitwaspackedupwiththebaggageandwastenmilesahead。ItismadnesstotravelinSyriawithoutanumbrella。TheytoldmeinBeirout（thesepeoplewhoalwaysgorgeyouwithadvice）thatitwasmadnesstotravelinSyriawithoutanumbrella。ItwasonthisaccountthatIgotone。
But，honestly，Ithinkanumbrellaisanuisanceanywherewhenitsbusinessistokeepthesunoff。NoArabwearsabrimtohisfez，orusesanumbrella，oranythingtoshadehiseyesorhisface，andhealwayslookscomfortableandproperinthesun。ButofalltheridiculoussightsIeverhaveseen，ourpartyofeightisthemostso——theydocutsuchanoutlandishfigure。Theytravelsinglefile;theyallweartheendlesswhiteragofConstantinoplewrappedroundandroundtheirhatsanddanglingdowntheirbacks;theyallwearthickgreenspectacles，withside—glassestothem;theyallholdwhiteumbrellas，linedwithgreen，overtheirheads;
withoutexceptiontheirstirrupsaretooshort——theyaretheveryworstgangofhorsemenonearth，theiranimalstoahorsetrotfearfullyhard——andwhentheygetstrungoutoneaftertheother;glaringstraightaheadandbreathless;bouncinghighandoutofturn，allalongtheline;kneeswellupandstiff，elbowsflappinglikearooster\'sthatisgoingtocrow，andthelongfileofumbrellaspoppingconvulsivelyupanddown——whenoneseesthisoutrageouspictureexposedtothelightofday，heisamazedthatthegodsdon\'tgetouttheirthunderboltsanddestroythemoffthefaceoftheearth！Ido——Iwonderatit。Iwouldn\'tletanysuchcaravangothroughacountryofmine。
Andwhenthesundropsbelowthehorizonandtheboysclosetheirumbrellasandputthemundertheirarms，itisonlyavariationofthepicture，notamodificationofitsabsurdity。
Butmaybeyoucannotseethewildextravaganceofmypanorama。Youcouldifyouwerehere。Here，youfeelallthetimejustasifyouwerelivingabouttheyear1200beforeChrist——orbacktothepatriarchs——orforwardtotheNewEra。ThesceneryoftheBibleisaboutyou——thecustomsofthepatriarchsarearoundyou——thesamepeople，inthesameflowingrobes，andinsandals，crossyourpath——thesamelongtrainsofstatelycamelsgoandcome——thesameimpressivereligioussolemnityandsilencerestuponthedesertandthemountainsthatwereuponthemintheremoteagesofantiquity，andbehold，intrudinguponascenelikethis，comesthisfantasticmobofgreen—spectacledYanks，withtheirflappingelbowsandbobbingumbrellas！ItisDanielinthelion\'sdenwithagreencottonumbrellaunderhisarm，alloveragain。
Myumbrellaiswiththebaggage，andsoaremygreenspectacles——andtheretheyshallstay。Iwillnotusethem。Iwillshowsomerespectfortheeternalfitnessofthings。Itwillbebadenoughtogetsun—struck，withoutlookingridiculousintothebargain。IfIfall，letmefallbearingaboutmethesemblanceofaChristina，atleast。
ThreeorfourhoursoutfromDamascuswepassedthespotwhereSaulwassoabruptlyconverted，andfromthisplacewelookedbackoverthescorchingdesert，andhadourlastglimpseofbeautifulDamascus，deckedinitsrobesofshininggreen。Afternightfallwereachedourtents，justoutsideofthenastyArabvillageofJonesborough。OfcoursetherealnameoftheplaceisElsomethingorother，buttheboysstillrefusetorecognizetheArabnamesortrytopronouncethem。WhenIsaythatthatvillageisoftheusualstyle，ImeantoinsinuatethatallSyrianvillageswithinfiftymilesofDamascusarealike——somuchalikethatitwouldrequiremorethanhumanintelligencetotellwhereinonedifferedfromanother。
ASyrianvillageisahiveofhutsonestoryhigh（theheightofaman，）
andassquareasadry—goodsbox;itismud—plasteredallover，flatroofandall，andgenerallywhitewashedafterafashion。Thesameroofoftenextendsoverhalfthetown，coveringmanyofthestreets，whicharegenerallyaboutayardwide。Whenyouridethroughoneofthesevillagesatnoon—day，youfirstmeetamelancholydog，thatlooksupatyouandsilentlybegsthatyouwon\'trunoverhim，buthedoesnotoffertogetoutoftheway;nextyoumeetayoungboywithoutanyclotheson，andheholdsouthishandandsays\"Bucksheesh！\"——hedon\'treallyexpectacent，butthenhelearnedtosaythatbeforehelearnedtosaymother，andnowhecannotbreakhimselfofit;nextyoumeetawomanwithablackveildrawncloselyoverherface，andherbustexposed;finally，youcometoseveralsore—eyedchildrenandchildreninallstagesofmutilationanddecay;andsittinghumblyinthedust，andallfringedwithfilthyrags，isapoordevilwhosearmsandlegsaregnarledandtwistedlikegrape—vines。
Theseareallthepeopleyouarelikelytosee。Thebalanceofthepopulationareasleepwithindoors，orabroadtendinggoatsintheplainsandonthehill—sides。Thevillageisbuiltonsomeconsumptivelittlewater—course，andaboutitisalittlefresh—lookingvegetation。Beyondthischarmedcircle，formilesoneveryside，stretchesawearydesertofsandandgravel，whichproducesagraybunchyshrublikesage—brush。ASyrianvillageisthesorriestsightintheworld，anditssurroundingsareeminentlyinkeepingwithit。
IwouldnothavegoneintothisdissertationuponSyrianvillagesbutforthefactthatNimrod，theMightyHunterofScripturalnotoriety，isburiedinJonesborough，andIwishedthepublictoknowabouthowheislocated。LikeHomer，heissaidtobeburiedinmanyotherplaces，butthisistheonlytrueandgenuineplacehisashesinhabit。
Whentheoriginaltribesweredispersed，morethanfourthousandyearsago，Nimrodandalargepartytraveledthreeorfourhundredmiles，andsettledwherethegreatcityofBabylonafterwardsstood。Nimrodbuiltthatcity。HealsobegantobuildthefamousTowerofBabel，butcircumstancesoverwhichhehadnocontrolputitoutofhispowertofinishit。Heranitupeightstorieshigh，however，andtwoofthemstillstand，atthisday——acolossalmassofbrickwork，rentdownthecentrebyearthquakes，andsearedandvitrifiedbythelightningsofanangryGod。Butthevastruinwillstillstandforages，toshamethepunylaborsofthesemoderngenerationsofmen。Itshugecompartmentsaretenantedbyowlsandlions，andoldNimrodliesneglectedinthiswretchedvillage，farfromthesceneofhisgrandenterprise。
WeleftJonesboroughveryearlyinthemorning，androdeforeverandforeverandforever，itseemedtome，overparcheddesertsandrockyhills，hungry，andwithnowatertodrink。Wehaddrainedthegoat—skinsdryinalittlewhile。AtnoonwehaltedbeforethewretchedArabtownofElYubaDam，perchedonthesideofamountain，butthedragomansaidifweappliedthereforwaterwewouldbeattackedbythewholetribe，fortheydidnotloveChristians。Wehadtojourneyon。Twohourslaterwereachedthefootofatallisolatedmountain，whichiscrownedbythecrumblingcastleofBanias，thestateliestruinofthatkindonearth，nodoubt。Itisathousandfeetlongandtwohundredwide，allofthemostsymmetrical，andatthesametimethemostponderousmasonry。Themassivetowersandbastionsaremorethanthirtyfeethigh，andhavebeensixty。Fromthemountain\'speakitsbrokenturretsriseabovethegrovesofancientoaksandolives，andlookwonderfullypicturesque。Itisofsuchhighantiquitythatnomanknowswhobuiltitorwhenitwasbuilt。Itisutterlyinaccessible，exceptinoneplace，whereabridle—pathwindsupwardamongthesolidrockstotheoldportcullis。Thehorses\'hoofshaveboredholesintheserockstothedepthofsixinchesduringthehundredsandhundredsofyearsthatthecastlewasgarrisoned。Wewanderedforthreehoursamongthechambersandcryptsanddungeonsofthefortress，andtrodwherethemailedheelsofmanyaknightlyCrusaderhadrang，andwherePhenicianheroeshadwalkedagesbeforethem。
Wewonderedhowsuchasolidmassofmasonrycouldbeaffectedevenbyanearthquake，andcouldnotunderstandwhatagencyhadmadeBaniasaruin;butwefoundthedestroyer，afterawhile，andthenourwonderwasincreasedtenfold。Seedshadfallenincrevicesinthevastwalls;
theseedshadsprouted;thetender，insignificantsproutshadhardened;
theygrewlargerandlarger，andbyasteady，imperceptiblepressureforcedthegreatstonesapart，andnowarebringingsuredestructionuponagiantworkthathasevenmockedtheearthquakestoscorn！Gnarledandtwistedtreesspringfromtheoldwallseverywhere，andbeautifyandovershadowthegraybattlementswithawildluxurianceoffoliage。
Fromtheseoldtowerswelookeddownuponabroad，far—reachinggreenplain，glitteringwiththepoolsandrivuletswhicharethesourcesofthesacredriverJordan。Itwasagratefulvision，aftersomuchdesert。
Andastheeveningdrewnear，weclambereddownthemountain，throughgrovesoftheBiblicaloaksofBashan，（forwewerejuststeppingovertheborderandenteringthelong—soughtHolyLand，）andatitsextremefoot，towardthewidevalley，weenteredthislittleexecrablevillageofBaniasandcampedinagreatgroveofolivetreesnearatorrentofsparklingwaterwhosebanksarearrayedinfig—trees，pomegranatesandoleandersinfullleaf。Barringtheproximityofthevillage，itisasortofparadise。
Theveryfirstthingonefeelslikedoingwhenhegetsintocamp，allburningupanddusty，istohuntupabath。Wefollowedthestreamuptowhereitgushesoutofthemountainside，threehundredyardsfromthetents，andtookabaththatwassoicythatifIdidnotknowthiswasthemainsourceofthesacredriver，Iwouldexpectharmtocomeofit。
ItwasbathingatnoondayinthechillysourceoftheAbana，\"RiverofDamascus，\"thatgavemethecholera，soDr。B。said。However，itgenerallydoesgivemethecholeratotakeabath。
Theincorrigiblepilgrimshavecomeinwiththeirpocketsfullofspecimensbrokenfromtheruins。Iwishthisvandalismcouldbestopped。TheybrokeofffragmentsfromNoah\'stomb;fromtheexquisitesculpturesofthetemplesofBaalbec;fromthehousesofJudasandAnanias，inDamascus;fromthetombofNimrodtheMightyHunterinJonesborough;fromthewornGreekandRomaninscriptionssetinthehoarywallsoftheCastleofBanias;andnowtheyhavebeenhackingandchippingtheseoldarchesherethatJesuslookeduponintheflesh。HeavenprotecttheSepulchrewhenthistribeinvadesJerusalem！
Theruinsherearenotveryinteresting。Therearethemassivewallsofagreatsquarebuildingthatwasoncethecitadel;therearemanyponderousoldarchesthataresosmotheredwithdebristhattheybarelyprojectabovetheground;thereareheavy—walledsewersthroughwhichthecrystalbrookofwhichJordanisbornstillruns;inthehill—sidearethesubstructionsofacostlymarbletemplethatHerodtheGreatbuilthere——patchesofitshandsomemosaicfloorsstillremain;thereisaquaintoldstonebridgethatwasherebeforeHerod\'stime，maybe;scatteredeverywhere，inthepathsandinthewoods，areCorinthiancapitals，brokenporphyrypillars，andlittlefragmentsofsculpture;andupyonderintheprecipicewherethefountaingushesout，arewell—wornGreekinscriptionsovernichesintherockwhereinancienttimestheGreeks，andafterthemtheRomans，worshippedthesylvangodPan。Buttreesandbushesgrowabovemanyoftheseruinsnow;themiserablehutsofalittlecrewoffilthyArabsarepercheduponthebrokenmasonryofantiquity，thewholeplacehasasleepy，stupid，rurallookaboutit，andonecanhardlybringhimselftobelievethatabusy，substantiallybuiltcityonceexistedhere，eventwothousandyearsago。Theplacewasneverthelessthesceneofaneventwhoseeffectshaveaddedpageafterpageandvolumeaftervolumetotheworld\'shistory。
ForinthisplaceChriststoodwhenhesaidtoPeter:\"ThouartPeter;anduponthisrockwillIbuildmychurch，andthegatesofhellshallnotprevailagainstit。AndIwillgiveuntotheethekeysoftheKingdomofHeaven;andwhatsoeverthoushaltbindonearthshallbeboundinheaven，andwhatsoeverthoushaltlooseonearthshallbeloosedinheaven。\"OnthoselittlesentenceshavebeenbuiltupthemightyedificeoftheChurchofRome;inthemlietheauthorityfortheimperialpowerofthePopesovertemporalaffairs，andtheirgodlikepowertocurseasoulorwashitwhitefromsin。Tosustainthepositionof\"theonlytrueChurch，\"
whichRomeclaimswasthusconferreduponher，shehasfoughtandlaboredandstruggledformanyacentury，andwillcontinuetokeepherselfbusyinthesameworktotheendoftime。ThememorablewordsIhavequotedgivetothisruinedcityaboutalltheinterestitpossessestopeopleofthepresentday。
ItseemscuriousenoughtoustobestandingongroundthatwasonceactuallypressedbythefeetoftheSaviour。Thesituationissuggestiveofarealityandatangibilitythatseematvariancewiththevaguenessandmysteryandghostlinessthatonenaturallyattachestothecharacterofagod。IcannotcomprehendyetthatIamsittingwhereagodhasstood，andlookinguponthebrookandthemountainswhichthatgodlookedupon，andamsurroundedbyduskymenandwomenwhoseancestorssawhim，andeventalkedwithhim，facetoface，andcarelessly，justastheywouldhavedonewithanyotherstranger。Icannotcomprehendthis;thegodsofmyunderstandinghavebeenalwayshiddenincloudsandveryfaraway。