Isaidnothing。Thedisplaywasexactlyaccordingtotheguide—book，andwerewenottravelingbytheguide—book？IselectedacertainhorsebecauseIthoughtIsawhimshy，andIthoughtthatahorsethathadspiritenoughtoshywasnottobedespised。
At6o\'clockP。M。，wecametoahalthereonthebreezysummitofashapelymountainoverlookingthesea，andthehandsomevalleywheredweltsomeofthoseenterprisingPhoeniciansofancienttimeswereadsomuchabout;allaroundusarewhatwereoncethedominionsofHiram，KingofTyre，whofurnishedtimberfromthecedarsoftheseLebanonhillstobuildportionsofEingSolomon\'sTemplewith。
Shortlyaftersix，ourpacktrainarrived。Ihadnotseenitbefore，andagoodrightIhadtobeastonished。Wehadnineteenservingmenandtwenty—sixpackmules！Itwasaperfectcaravan。Itlookedlikeone，too，asitwoundamongtherocks。Iwonderedwhatintheverymischiefwewantedwithsuchavastturn—outasthat，foreightmen。Iwonderedawhile，butsoonIbegantolongforatinplate，andsomebaconandbeans。Ihadcampedoutmanyandmanyatimebefore，andknewjustwhatwascoming。Iwentoff，withoutwaitingforservingmen，andunsaddledmyhorse，andwashedsuchportionsofhisribsandhisspineasprojectedthroughhishide，andwhenIcameback，beholdfivestatelycircustentswereup——tentsthatwerebrilliant，within，withblue，andgold，andcrimson，andallmannerofsplendidadornment！Iwasspeechless。Thentheybroughteightlittleironbedsteads，andsetthemupinthetents;theyputasoftmattressandpillowsandgoodblanketsandtwosnow—whitesheetsoneachbed。Next，theyriggedatableaboutthecentre—pole，andonitplacedpewterpitchers，basins，soap，andthewhitestoftowels——onesetforeachman;theypointedtopocketsinthetent，andsaidwecouldputoursmalltriflesinthemforconvenience，andifweneededpinsorsuchthings，theywerestickingeverywhere。Thencamethefinishingtouch——theyspreadcarpetsonthefloor！Isimplysaid，\"Ifyoucallthiscampingout，allright——butitisn\'tthestyleIamusedto;mylittlebaggagethatIbroughtalongisatadiscount。\"
Itgrewdark，andtheyputcandlesonthetables——candlessetinbright，new，brazencandlesticks。Andsoonthebell——agenuine，simon—purebell——
rang，andwewereinvitedto\"thesaloon。\"Ihadthoughtbeforethatwehadatentorsotoomany，butnowherewasone，atleast，providedfor;
itwastobeusedfornothingbutaneating—saloon。Liketheothers，itwashighenoughforafamilyofgiraffestolivein，andwasveryhandsomeandcleanandbright—coloredwithin。Itwasagemofaplace。Atableforeight，andeightcanvaschairs;atable—clothandnapkinswhosewhitenessandwhosefinenesslaughedtoscornthethingswewereusedtointhegreatexcursionsteamer;knivesandforks，soup—plates，dinner—plates——everything，inthehandsomestkindofstyle。Itwaswonderful！Andtheycallthiscampingout。Thosestatelyfellowsinbaggytrowsersandturbanedfezzesbroughtinadinnerwhichconsistedofroastmutton，roastchicken，roastgoose，potatoes，bread，tea，pudding，apples，anddeliciousgrapes;
theviandswerebettercookedthananywehadeatenforweeks，andthetablemadeafinerappearance，withitslargeGermansilvercandlesticksandotherfinery，thananytablewehadsatdowntoforagoodwhile，andyetthatpolitedragoman，Abraham，camebowinginandapologizingforthewholeaffair，onaccountoftheunavoidableconfusionofgettingunderwayforaverylongtrip，andpromisingtodoagreatdealbetterinfuture！
Itismidnight，now，andwebreakcampatsixinthemorning。
Theycallthiscampingout。AtthisrateitisagloriousprivilegetobeapilgrimtotheHolyLand。
Chapter42
WearecampednearTemnin—el—Foka——anamewhichtheboyshavesimplifiedagooddeal，forthesakeofconvenienceinspelling。TheycallitJacksonville。Itsoundsalittlestrangely，hereintheValleyofLebanon，butithasthemeritofbeingeasiertorememberthantheArabicname。\"COMELIKESPIRITS，SODEPART。\"\"Thenightshallbefilledwithmusic，AndthecaresthatinfestthedayShallfoldtheirtentsliketheArabs，Andassilentlystealaway。\"
Isleptverysoundlylastnight，yetwhenthedragoman\'sbellrangathalf—pastfivethismorningandthecrywentabroadof\"Tenminutestodressforbreakfast！\"Iheardboth。Itsurprisedme，becauseIhavenotheardthebreakfastgongintheshipforamonth，andwheneverwehavehadoccasiontofireasaluteatdaylight，Ihaveonlyfounditoutinthecourseofconversationafterward。However，campingout，eventhoughitbeinagorgeoustent，makesonefreshandlivelyinthemorning——especiallyiftheairyouarebreathingisthecool，freshairofthemountains。
Iwasdressedwithinthetenminutes，andcameout。Thesaloontenthadbeenstrippedofitssides，andhadnothingleftbutitsroof;sowhenwesatdowntotablewecouldlookoutoveranoblepanoramaofmountain，seaandhazyvalley。Andsittingthus，thesunroseslowlyupandsuffusedthepicturewithaworldofrichcoloring。
Hotmuttonchops，friedchicken，omelettes，friedpotatoesandcoffee——allexcellent。Thiswasthebilloffare。Itwassaucedwithasavageappetitepurchasedbyhardridingthedaybefore，andrefreshingsleepinapureatmosphere。AsIcalledforasecondcupofcoffee，Iglancedovermyshoulder，andbeholdourwhitevillagewasgone——thesplendidtentshadvanishedlikemagic！ItwaswonderfulhowquicklythoseArabshad\"foldedtheirtents;\"anditwaswonderful，also，howquicklytheyhadgatheredthethousandoddsandendsofthecamptogetheranddisappearedwiththem。
Byhalf—pastsixwewereunderway，andalltheSyrianworldseemedtobeunderwayalso。Theroadwasfilledwithmuletrainsandlongprocessionsofcamels。Thisremindsmethatwehavebeentryingforsometimetothinkwhatacamellookslike，andnowwehavemadeitout。Whenheisdownonallhisknees，flatonhisbreasttoreceivehisload，helookssomethinglikeagooseswimming;andwhenheisuprighthelookslikeanostrichwithanextrasetoflegs。Camelsarenotbeautiful，andtheirlongunderlipgivesthemanexceedingly\"gallus\"*expression。Theyhaveimmense，flat，forkedcushionsoffeet，thatmakeatrackinthedustlikeapiewithaslicecutoutofit。Theyarenotparticularabouttheirdiet。Theywouldeatatombstoneiftheycouldbiteit。Athistlegrowsaboutherewhichhasneedlesonitthatwouldpiercethroughleather，Ithink;ifonetouchesyou，youcanfindreliefinnothingbutprofanity。Thecamelseatthese。Theyshowbytheiractionsthattheyenjoythem。Isupposeitwouldbearealtreattoacameltohaveakegofnailsforsupper。*Excusetheslang——nootherwordwilldescribeit。WhileIamspeakingofanimals，IwillmentionthatIhaveahorsenowbythenameof\"Jericho。\"Heisamare。Ihaveseenremarkablehorsesbefore，butnonesoremarkableasthis。Iwantedahorsethatcouldshy，andthisonefillsthebill。Ihadanideathatshyingindicatedspirit。IfIwascorrect，Ihavegotthemostspiritedhorseonearth。Heshiesateverythinghecomesacross，withtheutmostimpartiality。Heappearstohaveamortaldreadoftelegraphpoles，especially;anditisfortunatethattheseareonbothsidesoftheroad，becauseasitisnow，Ineverfallofftwiceinsuccessiononthesameside。IfIfellonthesamesidealways，itwouldgettobemonotonousafterawhile。Thiscreaturehasscaredateverythinghehasseento—day，exceptahaystack。Hewalkeduptothatwithanintrepidityandarecklessnessthatwereastonishing。Anditwouldfillanyonewithadmirationtoseehowhepreserveshisself—possessioninthepresenceofabarleysack。Thisdare—devilbraverywillbethedeathofthishorsesomeday。
Heisnotparticularlyfast，butIthinkhewillgetmethroughtheHolyLand。Hehasonlyonefault。Histailhasbeenchoppedofforelsehehassatdownonittoohard，sometimeorother，andhehastofighttheflieswithhisheels。Thisisallverywell，butwhenhetriestokickaflyoffthetopofhisheadwithhishindfoot，itistoomuchvariety。
Heisgoingtogethimselfintotroublethatwaysomeday。Hereachesaroundandbitesmylegstoo。Idonotcareparticularlyaboutthat，onlyIdonotliketoseeahorsetoosociable。
Ithinktheownerofthisprizehadawrongopinionabouthim。Hehadanideathathewasoneofthosefiery，untamedsteeds，butheisnotofthatcharacter。IknowtheArabhadthisidea，becausewhenhebroughtthehorseoutforinspectioninBeirout，hekeptjerkingatthebridleandshoutinginArabic，\"Ho！willyou？Doyouwanttorunaway，youferociousbeast，andbreakyourneck？\"whenallthetimethehorsewasnotdoinganythingintheworld，andonlylookedlikehewantedtoleanupagainstsomethingandthink。Wheneverheisnotshyingatthings，orreachingafterafly，hewantstodothatyet。Howitwouldsurprisehisownertoknowthis。
Wehavebeeninahistoricalsectionofcountryallday。AtnoonwecampedthreehoursandtookluncheonatMekseh，nearthejunctionoftheLebanonMountainsandtheJebelelKuneiyiseh，andlookeddownintotheimmense，level，garden—likeValleyofLebanon。To—nightwearecampingnearthesamevalley，andhaveaverywidesweepofitinview。Wecanseethelong，whale—backedridgeofMountHermonprojectingabovetheeasternhills。The\"dewsofHermon\"arefallinguponusnow，andthetentsarealmostsoakedwiththem。
Overthewayfromus，andhigherupthevalley，wecandiscern，throughtheglasses，thefaintoutlinesofthewonderfulruinsofBaalbec，thesupposedBaal—GadofScripture。Joshua，andanotherperson，werethetwospieswhoweresentintothislandofCanaanbythechildrenofIsraeltoreportuponitscharacter——Imeantheywerethespieswhoreportedfavorably。
Theytookbackwiththemsomespecimensofthegrapesofthiscountry，andinthechildren\'spicture—bookstheyarealwaysrepresentedasbearingonemonstrousbunchswungtoapolebetweenthem，arespectableloadforapack—train。TheSunday—schoolbooksexaggerateditalittle。Thegrapesaremostexcellenttothisday，butthebunchesarenotaslargeasthoseinthepictures。IwassurprisedandhurtwhenIsawthem，becausethosecolossalbunchesofgrapeswereoneofmymostcherishedjuveniletraditions。
Joshuareportedfavorably，andthechildrenofIsraeljourneyedon，withMosesattheheadofthegeneralgovernment，andJoshuaincommandofthearmyofsixhundredthousandfightingmen。Ofwomenandchildrenandcivilianstherewasacountlessswarm。Ofallthatmightyhost，nonebutthetwofaithfulspieseverlivedtosettheirfeetinthePromisedLand。Theyandtheirdescendantswanderedfortyyearsinthedesert，andthenMoses，thegiftedwarrior，poet，statesmanandphilosopher，wentupintoPisgahandmethismysteriousfate。Wherehewasburiednomanknows——for\"……nomandugthatsepulchre，Andnomansawite\'er——
FortheSonsofGodupturnedthesodAndlaidthedeadmanthere！\"ThenJoshuabeganhisterribleraid，andfromJerichocleartothisBaal—Gad，hesweptthelandliketheGeniusofDestruction。Heslaughteredthepeople，laidwastetheirsoil，andrazedtheircitiestotheground。Hewastedthirty—onekingsalso。Onemaycallitthat，thoughreallyitcanhardlybecalledwastingthem，becausetherewerealwaysplentyofkingsinthosedays，andtospare。Atanyrate，hedestroyedthirty—onekings，anddivideduptheirrealmsamonghisIsraelites。Hedividedupthisvalleystretchedoutherebeforeus，andsoitwasonceJewishterritory。TheJewshavelongsincedisappearedfromit，however。
Backyonder，anhour\'sjourneyfromhere，wepassedthroughanArabvillageofstonedry—goodsboxes（theylooklikethat，）whereNoah\'stombliesunderlockandkey。[Noahbuilttheark。]Overtheseoldhillsandvalleysthearkthatcontainedallthatwasleftofavanishedworldoncefloated。
Imakenoapologyfordetailingtheaboveinformation。Itwillbenewstosomeofmyreaders，atanyrate。
Noah\'stombisbuiltofstone，andiscoveredwithalongstonebuilding。
Bucksheeshletusin。Thebuildinghadtobelong，becausethegraveofthehonoredoldnavigatoristwohundredandtenfeetlongitself！Itisonlyaboutfourfeethigh，though。Hemusthavecastashadowlikealightning—rod。
TheproofthatthisisthegenuinespotwhereNoahwasburiedcanonlybedoubtedbyuncommonlyincredulouspeople。Theevidenceisprettystraight。
Shem，thesonofNoah，waspresentattheburial，andshowedtheplacetohisdescendants，whotransmittedtheknowledgetotheirdescendants，andthelinealdescendantsoftheseintroducedthemselvestousto—day。
Itwaspleasanttomaketheacquaintanceofmembersofsorespectableafamily。Itwasathingtobeproudof。ItwasthenextthingtobeingacquaintedwithNoahhimself。
Noah\'smemorablevoyagewillalwayspossessalivinginterestforme，henceforward。
Ifeveranoppressedraceexisted，itisthisoneweseefetteredaroundusundertheinhumantyrannyoftheOttomanEmpire。IwishEuropewouldletRussiaannihilateTurkeyalittle——notmuch，butenoughtomakeitdifficulttofindtheplaceagainwithoutadivining—rodoradiving—bell。
TheSyriansareverypoor，andyettheyaregrounddownbyasystemoftaxationthatwoulddriveanyothernationfrantic。Lastyeartheirtaxeswereheavyenough，inallconscience——butthisyeartheyhavebeenincreasedbytheadditionoftaxesthatwereforgiventhemintimesoffamineinformeryears。OntopofthistheGovernmenthasleviedataxofone—tenthofthewholeproceedsoftheland。Thisisonlyhalfthestory。ThePachaofaPachalicdoesnottroublehimselfwithappointingtax—collectors。
Hefiguresupwhatallthesetaxesoughttoamounttoinacertaindistrict。
Thenhefarmsthecollectionout。Hecallstherichmentogether，thehighestbiddergetsthespeculation，paysthePachaonthespot，andthensellsouttosmallerfry，whosellinturntoapiraticalhordeofstillsmallerfry。Theselattercompelthepeasanttobringhislittletrifleofgraintothevillage，athisowncost。Itmustbeweighed，thevarioustaxessetapart，andtheremainderreturnedtotheproducer。Butthecollectordelaysthisdutydayafterday，whiletheproducer\'sfamilyareperishingforbread;atlastthepoorwretch，whocannotbutunderstandthegame，says，\"Takeaquarter——takehalf——taketwo—thirdsifyouwill，andletmego！\"Itisamostoutrageousstateofthings。
Thesepeoplearenaturallygood—heartedandintelligent，andwitheducationandliberty，wouldbeahappyandcontentedrace。Theyoftenappealtothestrangertoknowifthegreatworldwillnotsomedaycometotheirreliefandsavethem。TheSultanhasbeenlavishingmoneylikewaterinEnglandandParis，buthissubjectsaresufferingforitnow。
Thisfashionofcampingoutbewildersme。Wehavebootjacksandabath—tub，now，andyetallthemysteriesthepack—mulescarryarenotrevealed。Whatnext？
Chapter43
Wehadatediousrideofaboutfivehours，inthesun，acrosstheValleyofLebanon。Itprovedtobenotquitesomuchofagardenasithadseemedfromthehill—sides。Itwasadesert，weed—grownwaste，litteredthicklywithstonesthesizeofaman\'sfist。Hereandtherethenativeshadscratchedthegroundandrearedasicklycropofgrain，butforthemostpartthevalleywasgivenuptoahandfulofshepherds，whoseflocksweredoingwhattheyhonestlycouldtogetaliving，butthechanceswereagainstthem。Wesawrudepilesofstonesstandingneartheroadside，atintervals，andrecognizedthecustomofmarkingboundarieswhichobtainedinJacob\'stime。Therewerenowalls，nofences，nohedges——nothingtosecureaman\'spossessionsbuttheserandomheapsofstones。TheIsraelitesheldthemsacredintheoldpatriarchaltimes，andtheseotherArabs，theirlinealdescendants，dosolikewise。AnAmerican，ofordinaryintelligence，wouldsoonwidelyextendhisproperty，atanoutlayofmeremanuallabor，performedatnight，undersolooseasystemoffencingasthis。
Theplowsthesepeopleusearesimplyasharpenedstick，suchasAbrahamplowedwith，andtheystillwinnowtheirwheatashedid——theypileitonthehouse—top，andthentossitbyshovel—fullsintotheairuntilthewindhasblownallthechaffaway。Theyneverinventanything，neverlearnanything。
Wehadafinerace，ofamile，withanArabperchedonacamel。Someofthehorseswerefast，andmadeverygoodtime，butthecamelscamperedbythemwithoutanyverygreateffort。Theyellingandshouting，andwhippingandgalloping，ofallpartiesinterested，madeitanexhilarating，exciting，andparticularlyboisterousrace。
Ateleveno\'clock，oureyesfelluponthewallsandcolumnsofBaalbec，anobleruinwhosehistoryisasealedbook。Ithasstoodthereforthousandsofyears，thewonderandadmirationoftravelers;butwhobuiltit，orwhenitwasbuilt，arequestionsthatmayneverbeanswered。Onethingisverysure，though。Suchgrandeurofdesign，andsuchgraceofexecution，asoneseesinthetemplesofBaalbec，havenotbeenequaledorevenapproachedinanyworkofmen\'shandsthathasbeenbuiltwithintwentycenturiespast。
ThegreatTempleoftheSun，theTempleofJupiter，andseveralsmallertemples，areclusteredtogetherinthemidstofoneofthesemiserableSyrianvillages，andlookstrangelyenoughinsuchplebeiancompany。Thesetemplesarebuiltuponmassivesubstructionsthatmightsupportaworld，almost;thematerialsusedareblocksofstoneaslargeasanomnibus——veryfew，ifanyofthem，aresmallerthanacarpenter\'stoolchest——andthesesubstructionsaretraversedbytunnelsofmasonrythroughwhichatrainofcarsmightpass。Withsuchfoundationsasthese，itislittlewonderthatBaalbechaslastedsolong。TheTempleoftheSunisnearlythreehundredfeetlongandonehundredandsixtyfeetwide。Ithadfifty—fourcolumnsaroundit，butonlysixarestandingnow——theothersliebrokenatitsbase，aconfusedandpicturesqueheap。Thesixcolumnsaretheirbases，Corinthiancapitalsandentablature——andsixmoreshapelycolumnsdonotexist。Thecolumnsandtheentablaturetogetherareninetyfeethigh——aprodigiousaltitudeforshaftsofstonetoreach，truly——andyetoneonlythinksoftheirbeautyandsymmetrywhenlookingatthem;thepillarslookslenderanddelicate，theentablature，withitselaboratesculpture，lookslikerichstucco—work。Butwhenyouhavegazedalofttillyoureyesareweary，youglanceatthegreatfragmentsofpillarsamongwhichyouarestanding，andfindthattheyareeightfeetthrough;andwiththemliebeautifulcapitalsapparentlyaslargeasasmallcottage;
andalsosingleslabsofstone，superblysculptured，thatarefourorfivefeetthick，andwouldcompletelycoverthefloorofanyordinaryparlor。
Youwonderwherethesemonstrousthingscamefrom，andittakessomelittletimetosatisfyyourselfthattheairyandgracefulfabricthattowersaboveyourheadismadeupoftheirmates。Itseemstoopreposterous。
TheTempleofJupiterisasmallerruinthantheoneIhavebeenspeakingof，andyetisimmense。Itisinatolerablestateofpreservation。Onerowofninecolumnsstandsalmostuninjured。Theyaresixty—fivefeethighandsupportasortofporchorroof，whichconnectsthemwiththeroofofthebuilding。Thisporch—roofiscomposedoftremendousslabsofstone，whicharesofinelysculpturedontheundersidethattheworklookslikeafrescofrombelow。Oneortwooftheseslabshadfallen，andagainI
wonderedifthegiganticmassesofcarvedstonethatlayaboutmewerenolargerthanthoseabovemyhead。Withinthetemple，theornamentationwaselaborateandcolossal。Whatawonderofarchitecturalbeautyandgrandeurthisedificemusthavebeenwhenitwasnew！Andwhatanoblepictureitanditsstateliercompanion，withthechaosofmightyfragmentsscatteredaboutthem，yetmakesinthemoonlight！
Icannotconceivehowthoseimmenseblocksofstonewereeverhauledfromthequarries，orhowtheywereeverraisedtothedizzyheightstheyoccupyinthetemples。Andyetthesesculpturedblocksaretriflesinsizecomparedwiththerough—hewnblocksthatformthewideverandahorplatformwhichsurroundstheGreatTemple。Onestretchofthatplatform，twohundredfeetlong，iscomposedofblocksofstoneaslarge，andsomeofthemlarger，thanastreet—car。Theysurmountawallabouttenortwelvefeethigh。
Ithoughtthosewerelargerocks，buttheysankintoinsignificancecomparedwiththosewhichformedanothersectionoftheplatform。Thesewerethreeinnumber，andIthoughtthateachofthemwasaboutaslongasthreestreetcarsplacedendtoend，thoughofcoursetheyareathirdwiderandathirdhigherthanastreetcar。Perhapstworailwayfreightcarsofthelargestpattern，placedendtoend，mightbetterrepresenttheirsize。Incombinedlengththesethreestonesstretchnearlytwohundredfeet;theyarethirteenfeetsquare;twoofthemaresixty—fourfeetlongeach，andthethirdissixty—nine。Theyarebuiltintothemassivewallsometwentyfeetabovetheground。Theyarethere，buthowtheygotthereisthequestion。Ihaveseenthehullofasteamboatthatwassmallerthanoneofthosestones。
Allthesegreatwallsareasexactandshapelyastheflimsythingswebuildofbricksinthesedays。AraceofgodsorofgiantsmusthaveinhabitedBaalbecmanyacenturyago。Menlikethemenofourdaycouldhardlyrearsuchtemplesasthese。
WewenttothequarryfromwhencethestonesofBaalbecweretaken。
Itwasaboutaquarterofamileoff，anddownhill。Inagreatpitlaythemateofthelargeststoneintheruins。Itlaytherejustasthegiantsofthatoldforgottentimehadleftitwhentheywerecalledhence——justastheyhadleftit，toremainforthousandsofyears，aneloquentrebukeuntosuchasarepronetothinkslightinglyofthemenwholivedbeforethem。Thisenormousblockliesthere，squaredandreadyforthebuilders\'
hands——asolidmassfourteenfeetbyseventeen，andbutafewincheslessthanseventyfeetlong！Twobuggiescouldbedrivenabreastofeachother，onitssur—face，fromoneendofittotheother，andleaveroomenoughforamanortwotowalkoneitherside。
OnemightswearthatalltheJohnSmithsandGeorgeWilkinsons，andalltheotherpitifulnobodiesbetweenKingdomComeandBaalbecwouldinscribetheirpoorlittlenamesuponthewallsofBaalbec\'smagnificentruins，andwouldaddthetown，thecountyandtheStatetheycamefrom——andswearingthus，beinfalliblycorrect。Itisapitysomegreatruindoesnotfallinandflattenoutsomeofthesereptiles，andscaretheirkindoutofevergivingtheirnamestofameuponanywallsormonumentsagain，forever。
Properly，withthesorryrelicswebestrode，itwasathreedays\'journeytoDamascus。Itwasnecessarythatweshoulddoitinlessthantwo。ItwasnecessarybecauseourthreepilgrimswouldnottravelontheSabbathday。WewereallperfectlywillingtokeeptheSabbathday，buttherearetimeswhentokeeptheletterofasacredlawwhosespiritisrighteous，becomesasin，andthiswasacaseinpoint。Wepleadedforthetired，ill—treatedhorses，andtriedtoshowthattheirfaithfulservicedeservedkindnessinreturn，andtheirhardlotcompassion。Butwhendideverself—righteousnessknowthesentimentofpity？Whatwereafewlonghoursaddedtothehardshipsofsomeover—taxedbruteswhenweighedagainsttheperilofthosehumansouls？Itwasnotthemostpromisingpartytotravelwithandhopetogainahighervenerationforreligionthroughtheexampleofitsdevotees。WesaidtheSaviourwhopitieddumbbeastsandtaughtthattheoxmustberescuedfromthemireevenontheSabbathday，wouldnothavecounseledaforcedmarchlikethis。Wesaidthe\"longtrip\"wasexhaustingandthereforedangerousintheblisteringheatsofsummer，evenwhentheordinarydays\'
stagesweretraversed，andifwepersistedinthishardmarch，someofusmightbestrickendownwiththefeversofthecountryinconsequenceofit。Nothingcouldmovethepilgrims。Theymustpresson。Menmightdie，horsesmightdie，buttheymustenteruponholysoilnextweek，withnoSabbath—breakingstainuponthem。Thustheywerewillingtocommitasinagainstthespiritofreligiouslaw，inorderthattheymightpreservetheletterofit。Itwasnotworthwhiletotellthem\"theletterkills。\"
Iamtalkingnowaboutpersonalfriends;menwhomIlike;menwhoaregoodcitizens;whoarehonorable，upright，conscientious;butwhoseideaoftheSaviour\'sreligionseemstomedistorted。Theylectureourshortcomingsunsparingly，andeverynighttheycallustogetherandreadtouschaptersfromtheTestamentthatarefullofgentleness，ofcharity，andoftendermercy;andthenallthenextdaytheysticktotheirsaddlesclearuptothesummitsoftheseruggedmountains，andcleardownagain。ApplytheTestament\'sgentleness，andcharity，andtendermercytoatoiling，wornandwearyhorse？——Nonsense——theseareforGod\'shumancreatures，notHisdumbones。Whatthepilgrimschoosetodo，respectfortheiralmostsacredcharacterdemandsthatIshouldallowtopass——butIwouldsoliketocatchanyothermemberofthepartyridinghishorseuponeoftheseexhaustinghillsonce！
Wehavegiventhepilgrimsagoodmanyexamplesthatmightbenefitthem，butitisvirtuethrownaway。Theyhaveneverheardacrosswordoutofourlipstowardeachother——buttheyhavequarreledonceortwice。
Welovetohearthematit，aftertheyhavebeenlecturingus。Theveryfirstthingtheydid，comingashoreatBeirout，wastoquarrelintheboat。
IhavesaidIlikethem，andIdolikethem——buteverytimetheyreadmeascorcherofalectureImeantotalkbackinprint。
Notcontentwithdoublingthelegitimatestages，theyswitchedof渇
themainrodaandwentawayoutofthewaytovisitanabsurdfountaincalledFigia，becauseBaalam\'sasshaddrankthereonce。Sowejourneyedon，throughtheterriblehillsanddesertsandtheroastingsun，andthenfarintothenight，seekingthehonoredpoolofBaalam\'sass，thepatronsaintofallpilgrimslikeus。Ifindnoentrybutthisinmynote—book:\"Rodeto—day，altogether，thirteenhours，throughdeserts，partly，andpartlyoverbarren，unsightlyhills，andlatterlythroughwild，rockyscenery，andcampedatabouteleveno\'clockatnightonthebanksofalimpidstream，nearaSyrianvillage。Donotknowitsname——donotwishtoknowit——wanttogotobed。Twohorseslame（mineandJack\'s）andtheotherswornout。JackandIwalkedthreeorfourmiles，overthehills，andledthehorses。Fun——butofamildtype。\"Twelveorthirteenhoursinthesaddle，eveninaChristianlandandaChristianclimate，andonagoodhorse，isatiresomejourney;butinanovenlikeSyria，inaraggedspoonofasaddlethatslipsfore—and—aft，and\"thort—ships，\"andeveryway，andonahorsethatistiredandlame，andyetmustbewhippedandspurredwithhardlyamoment\'scessationalldaylong，tillthebloodcomesfromhisside，andyourconsciencehurtsyoueverytimeyoustrikeifyouarehalfaman，——itisajourneytoberememberedinbitternessofspiritandexecratedwithemphasisforaliberaldivisionofaman\'slifetime。
Chapter44
Thenextdaywasanoutrageuponmenandhorsesboth。Itwasanotherthirteen—hourstretch（includinganhour\'s\"nooning。\"）Itwasoverthebarrenestchalk—hillsandthroughthebaldestcanonsthatevenSyriacanshow。Theheatquiveredintheaireverywhere。Inthecanonswealmostsmotheredinthebakingatmosphere。Onhighground，thereflectionfromthechalk—hillswasblinding。Itwascrueltourgethecrippledhorses，butithadtobedoneinordertomakeDamascusSaturdaynight。Wesawancienttombsandtemplesoffancifularchitecturecarvedoutofthesolidrockhighupinthefaceofprecipicesaboveourheads，butwehadneithertimenorstrengthtoclimbupthereandexaminethem。Theterselanguageofmynote—bookwillanswerfortherestofthisday\'sexperiences:Brokecampat7A。M。，andmadeaghastlytripthroughtheZebDanavalleyandtheroughmountains——horseslimpingandthatArabscreech—owlthatdoesmostofthesingingandcarriesthewater—skins，alwaysathousandmilesahead，ofcourse，andnowatertodrink——willheneverdie？
Beautifulstreaminachasm，linedthickwithpomegranate，fig，oliveandquinceorchards，andnoonedanhouratthecelebratedBaalam\'sAssFountainofFigia，secondinsizeinSyria，andthecoldestwateroutofSiberia——guide—booksdonotsayBaalam\'sasseverdrankthere——somebodybeenimposingonthepilgrims，maybe。Bathedinit——JackandI。Onlyasecond——ice—water。ItistheprincipalsourceoftheAbanariver——onlyone—halfmiledowntowhereitjoins。Beautifulplace——gianttreesallaround——soshadyandcool，ifonecouldkeepawake——vaststreamgushesstraightoutfromunderthemountaininatorrent。Overitisaveryancientruin，withnoknownhistory——supposedtohavebeenfortheworshipofthedeityofthefountainorBaalam\'sassorsomebody。Wretchednestofhumanverminaboutthefountain——rags，dirt，sunkencheeks，pallorofsickness，sores，projectingbones，dull，achingmiseryintheireyesandravenoushungerspeakingfromeveryeloquentfibreandmusclefromheadtofoot。Howtheyspranguponabone，howtheycrunchedthebreadwegavethem！Suchasthesetoswarmaboutoneandwatcheverybitehetakes，withgreedylooks，andswallowunconsciouslyeverytimeheswallows，asiftheyhalffanciedthepreciousmorselwentdowntheirownthroats——hurryupthecaravan！——Inevershallenjoyamealinthisdistressfulcountry。Tothinkofeatingthreetimeseverydayundersuchcircumstancesforthreeweeksyet——itisworsepunishmentthanridingalldayinthesun。Therearesixteenstarvingbabiesfromonetosixyearsoldintheparty，andtheirlegsarenolargerthanbroomhandles。Leftthefountainat1P。M。（thefountaintookusatleasttwohoursoutofourway，）andreachedMahomet\'slookoutperch，overDamascus，intimetogetagoodlonglookbeforeitwasnecessarytomoveon。Tired？
Askofthewindsthatfarawaywithfragmentsstrewedthesea。\"Astheglareofdaymellowedintotwilight，welookeddownuponapicturewhichiscelebratedallovertheworld。IthinkIhavereadaboutfourhundredtimesthatwhenMahometwasasimplecamel—driverhereachedthispointandlookeddownuponDamascusforthefirsttime，andthenmadeacertainrenownedremark。Hesaidmancouldenteronlyoneparadise;hepreferredtogototheoneabove。SohesatdownthereandfeastedhiseyesupontheearthlyparadiseofDamascus，andthenwentawaywithoutenteringitsgates。Theyhaveerectedatoweronthehilltomarkthespotwherehestood。
Damascusisbeautifulfromthemountain。Itisbeautifuleventoforeignersaccustomedtoluxuriantvegetation，andIcaneasilyunderstandhowunspeakablybeautifulitmustbetoeyesthatareonlyusedtotheGod—forsakenbarrennessanddesolationofSyria。IshouldthinkaSyrianwouldgowildwithecstacywhensuchapictureburstsuponhimforthefirsttime。