Myfirstinstinctwastosetuptheusual——NOTICE:\"We，theundersigned，claimfiveclaimsoftwohundredfeeteach，（andonefordiscovery，）onthisledgeorlodeofoyster—shells，withallitsdips，spurs，angles，variationsandsinuosities，andfiftyfeetoneachsideofthesame，toworkit，etc。，etc。，accordingtothemininglawsofSmyrna。\"Theyweresuchperfectlynatural—lookingleadsthatIcouldhardlykeepfrom\"takingthemup。\"Amongtheoyster—shellsweremixedmanyfragmentsofancient，brokencrockeryware。Nowhowdidthosemassesofoyster—shellsgetthere？Icannotdetermine。Brokencrockeryandoyster—shellsaresuggestiveofrestaurants——butthentheycouldhavehadnosuchplacesawayupthereonthatmountainsideinourtime，becausenobodyhaslivedupthere。A
restaurantwouldnotpayinsuchastony，forbidding，desolateplace。Andbesides，therewerenochampagnecorksamongtheshells。Ifthereeverwasarestaurantthere，itmusthavebeeninSmyrna\'spalmydays，whenthehillswerecoveredwithpalaces。Icouldbelieveinonerestaurant，onthoseterms;butthenhowaboutthethree？Didtheyhaverestaurantsthereatthreedifferentperiodsoftheworld？——becausetherearetwoorthreefeetofsolidearthbetweentheoysterleads。Evidently，therestaurantsolutionwillnotanswer。
Thehillmighthavebeenthebottomofthesea，once，andbeenliftedup，withitsoyster—beds，byanearthquake——but，then，howaboutthecrockery？
Andmoreover，howaboutthreeoysterbeds，oneaboveanother，andthickstrataofgoodhonestearthbetween？
Thattheorywillnotdo。ItisjustpossiblethatthishillisMountArarat，andthatNoah\'sArkrestedhere，andheateoystersandthrewtheshellsoverboard。Butthatwillnotdo，either。Therearethethreelayersagainandthesolidearthbetween——and，besides，therewereonlyeightinNoah\'sfamily，andtheycouldnothaveeatenalltheseoystersinthetwoorthreemonthstheystaidontopofthatmountain。Thebeasts——however，itissimplyabsurdtosupposehedidnotknowanymorethantofeedthebeastsonoystersuppers。
Itispainful——itisevenhumiliating——butIamreducedatlasttooneslendertheory:thattheoystersclimbedupthereoftheirownaccord。
Butwhatobjectcouldtheyhavehadinview？——whatdidtheywantupthere？
Whatcouldanyoysterwanttoclimbahillfor？Toclimbahillmustnecessarilybefatiguingandannoyingexerciseforanoyster。Themostnaturalconclusionwouldbethattheoystersclimbeduptheretolookatthescenery。Yetwhenonecomestoreflectuponthenatureofanoyster，itseemsplainthathedoesnotcareforscenery。Anoysterhasnotasteforsuchthings;
hecaresnothingforthebeautiful。Anoysterisofaretiringdisposition，andnotlively——notevencheerfulabovetheaverage，andneverenterprising。
Butaboveall，anoysterdoesnottakeanyinterestinscenery——hescornsit。WhathaveIarrivedatnow？SimplyatthepointIstartedfrom，namely，thoseoystershellsarethere，inregularlayers，fivehundredfeetabovethesea，andnomanknowshowtheygotthere。Ihavehunteduptheguide—books，andthegistofwhattheysayisthis:\"Theyarethere，buthowtheygotthereisamystery。\"
Twenty—fiveyearsago，amultitudeofpeopleinAmericaputontheirascensionrobes，tookatearfulleaveoftheirfriends，andmadereadytoflyupintoheavenatthefirstblastofthetrumpet。Buttheangeldidnotblowit。Miller\'sresurrectiondaywasafailure。TheMilleritesweredisgusted。IdidnotsuspectthattherewereMillersinAsiaMinor，butagentlemantellsmethattheyhaditallsetfortheworldtocometoanendinSmyrnaonedayaboutthreeyearsago。Therewasmuchbuzzingandpreparationforalongtimepreviously，anditculminatedinawildexcitementattheappointedtime。Avastnumberofthepopulaceascendedthecitadelhillearlyinthemorning，togetoutofthewayofthegeneraldestruction，andmanyoftheinfatuatedcloseduptheirshopsandretiredfromallearthlybusiness。Butthestrangepartofitwasthataboutthreeintheafternoon，whilethisgentlemanandhisfriendswereatdinnerinthehotel，aterrificstormofrain，accompaniedbythunderandlightning，brokeforthandcontinuedwithdirefuryfortwoorthreehours。ItwasathingunprecedentedinSmyrnaatthattimeoftheyear，andscaredsomeofthemostskeptical。Thestreetsranriversandthehotelfloorwasfloodedwithwater。Thedinnerhadtobesuspended。Whenthestormfinishedandlefteverybodydrenchedthroughandthrough，andmelancholyandhalf—drowned，theascensionistscamedownfromthemountainasdryassomanycharity—
sermons！Theyhadbeenlookingdownuponthefearfulstormgoingonbelow，andreallybelievedthattheirproposeddestructionoftheworldwasprovingagrandsuccess。
ArailwayhereinAsia——inthedreamyrealmoftheOrient——inthefabledlandoftheArabianNights——isastrangethingtothinkof。Andyettheyhaveonealready，andarebuildinganother。Thepresentoneiswellbuiltandwellconducted，byanEnglishCompany，butisnotdoinganimmenseamountofbusiness。Thefirstyearitcarriedagoodmanypassengers，butitsfreightlistonlycomprisedeighthundredpoundsoffigs！
ItrunsalmosttotheverygatesofEphesus——atowngreatinallagesoftheworld——acityfamiliartoreadersoftheBible，andonewhichwasasoldastheveryhillswhenthedisciplesofChristpreachedinitsstreets。
Itdatesbacktotheshadowyagesoftradition，andwasthebirthplaceofgodsrenownedinGrecianmythology。Theideaofalocomotivetearingthroughsuchaplaceasthis，andwakingthephantomsofitsolddaysofromanceoutoftheirdreamsofdeadandgonecenturies，iscuriousenough。
Wejourneythithertomorrowtoseethecelebratedruins。
Chapter40
Thishasbeenastirringday。TheSuperintendentoftherailwayputatrainatourdisposal，anddidusthefurtherkindnessofaccompanyingustoEphesusandgivingtoushiswatchfulcare。Webroughtsixtyscarcelyperceptibledonkeysinthefreightcars，forwehadmuchgroundtogoover。
Wehaveseensomeofthemostgrotesquecostumes，alongthelineoftherailroad，thatcanbeimagined。Iamgladthatnopossiblecombinationofwordscoulddescribethem，forImightthenbefoolishenoughtoattemptit。
AtancientAyassalook，inthemidstofaforbiddingdesert，wecameuponlonglinesofruinedaqueducts，andotherremnantsofarchitecturalgrandeur，thattoldusplainlyenoughwewerenearingwhathadbeenametropolis，once。Weleftthetrainandmountedthedonkeys，alongwithourinvitedguests——pleasantyounggentlemenfromtheofficers\'listofanAmericanman—of—war。
Thelittledonkeyshadsaddlesuponthemwhichweremadeveryhighinorderthattherider\'sfeetmightnotdragtheground。Thepreventativedidnotworkwellinthecasesofourtallestpilgrims，however。Therewerenobridles——nothingbutasinglerope，tiedtothebit。Itwaspurelyornamental，forthedonkeycarednothingforit。Ifheweredriftingtostarboard，youmightputyourhelmdownhardtheotherway，ifitwereanysatisfactiontoyoutodoit，buthewouldcontinuetodrifttostarboardallthesame。Therewasonlyoneprocesswhichcouldbedependedon，anditwastogetdownandlifthisreararounduntilhisheadpointedintherightdirection，ortakehimunderyourarmandcarryhimtoapartoftheroadwhichhecouldnotgetoutofwithoutclimbing。Thesunflameddownashotasafurnace，andneckscarfs，veilsandumbrellasseemedhardlyanyprotection;theyservedonlytomakethelongprocessionlookmorethaneverfantastic——forbeitknowntheladieswereallridingastridebecausetheycouldnotstayontheshapelesssaddlessidewise，themenwereperspiringandoutoftemper，theirfeetwerebangingagainsttherocks，thedonkeyswerecaperingineverydirectionbuttherightoneandbeingbelaboredwithclubsforit，andeveryDowandthenabroadumbrellawouldsuddenlygodownoutofthecavalcade，announcingtoallthatonemorepilgrimhadbittenthedust。Itwasawilderpicturethanthosesolitudeshadseenformanyaday。Nodonkeyseverexistedthatwereashardtonavigateasthese，Ithink，orthathadsomanyvile，exasperatinginstincts。Occasionallysignallywegrewsotiredandbreathlesswithfightingthemthatwehadtodesist，——andimmediatelythedonkeywouldcomedowntoadeliberatewalk。This，withthefatigue，andthesun，wouldputamanasleep;andsoonasthemanwasasleep，thedonkeywouldliedown。Mydonkeyshallneverseehisboyhood\'shomeagain。Hehaslaindownoncetoooften。WeallstoodinthevasttheatreofancientEpllesus，——thestone—benchedamphitheatreImean——andhadourpicturetaken。Welookedasproperthereaswewouldlookanywhere，Isuppose。Wedonotembellishthegeneraldesolationofadesertmuch。Weaddwhatdignitywecantoastatelyruinwithourgreenumbrellasandjackasses，butitislittle。However，wemeanwell。
IwishtosayabriefwordoftheaspectofEphesus。
Onahigh，steephill，towardthesea，isagrayruinofponderousblocksofmarble，wherein，traditionsays，St。Paulwasimprisonedeighteencenturiesago。FromtheseoldwallsyouhavethefinestviewofthedesolatescenewhereoncestoodEphesus，theproudestcityofancienttimes，andwhoseTempleofDianawassonobleindesign，andsoexquisiteofworkmanship，thatitrankedhighinthelistoftheSevenWondersoftheWorld。
Behindyouisthesea;infrontisalevelgreenvalley，（amarsh，infact，）extendingfarawayamongthemountains;totherightofthefrontviewistheoldcitadelofAyassalook，onahighhill;theruinedMosqueoftheSultanSelimstandsnearitintheplain，（thisisbuiltoverthegraveofSt。John，andwasformerlyChristianChurch;）furthertowardyouisthehillofPion，aroundwhosefrontisclusteredallthatremainsoftheruinsofEphesusthatstillstand;dividedfromitbyanarrowvalleyisthelong，rocky，ruggedmountainofCoressus。Thesceneisaprettyone，andyetdesolate——forinthatwideplainnomancanlive，andinitisnohumanhabitation。ButforthecrumblingarchesandmonstrouspiersandbrokenwallsthatrisefromthefootofthehillofPion，onecouldnotbelievethatinthisplaceoncestoodacitywhoserenownisolderthantraditionitself。Itisincredibletoreflectthatthingsasfamiliarallovertheworldto—dayashouseholdwords，belonginthehistoryandintheshadowylegendsofthissilent，mournfulsolitude。WespeakofApolloandofDiana——theywerebornhere;ofthemetamorphosisofSyrinxintoareed——itwasdonehere;ofthegreatgodPan——hedweltinthecavesofthishillofCoressus;oftheAmazons——thiswastheirbestprizedhome;
ofBacchusandHerculesbothfoughtthewarlikewomenhere;oftheCyclops——theylaidtheponderousmarbleblocksofsomeoftheruinsyonder;ofHomer——thiswasoneofhismanybirthplaces;ofCirmonofAthens;ofAlcibiades，Lysander，Agesilaus——theyvisitedhere;sodidAlexandertheGreat;sodidHannibalandAntiochus，Scipio，LucullusandSylla;Brutus，Cassius，Pompey，Cicero，andAugustus;Antonywasajudgeinthisplace，andlefthisseatintheopencourt，whiletheadvocateswerespeaking，torunafterCleopatra，whopassedthedoor;fromthiscitythesetwosailedonpleasureexcursions，ingalleyswithsilveroarsandperfumedsails，andwithcompaniesofbeautifulgirlstoservethem，andactorsandmusicianstoamusethem;indaysthatseemalmostmodern，soremotearetheyfromtheearlyhistoryofthiscity，PaultheApostlepreachedthenewreligionhere，andsodidJohn，andhereitissupposedtheformerwaspittedagainstwildbeasts，forin1Corinthians，xv。32hesays:\"IfafterthemannerofmenIhavefoughtwithbeastsatEphesus，\"
etc。，whenmanymenstilllivedwhohadseentheChrist;hereMaryMagdalendied，andheretheVirginMaryendedherdayswithJohn，albeitRomehassincejudgeditbesttolocatehergraveelsewhere;sixorsevenhundredyearsago——almostyesterday，asitwere——troopsofmail—cladCrusadersthrongedthestreets;andtocomedowntotrifles，wespeakofmeanderingstreams，andfindanewinterestinacommonwordwhenwediscoverthatthecrookedriverMeander，inyondervalley，gaveittoourdictionary。Itmakesmefeelasoldasthesedrearyhillstolookdownuponthesemoss—hungruins，thishistoricdesolation。OnemayreadtheScripturesandbelieve，buthecannotgoandstandyonderintheruinedtheatreandinimaginationpeopleitagainwiththevanishedmultitudeswhomobbedPaul\'scomradesthereandshouted，withonevoice，\"GreatisDianaoftheEphesians！\"
Theideaofashoutinsuchasolitudeasthisalmostmakesoneshudder。
Itwasawonderfulcity，thisEphesus。Gowhereyouwillaboutthesebroadplains，youfindthemostexquisitelyeculpturedmarblefragmentsscatteredthickamongthedustandweeds;andprotrudingfromtheground，orlyingproneuponit，arebeautifulflutedcolumnsofporphyryandallpreciousmarbles;andateverystepyoufindelegantlycarvedcapitalsandmassivebases，andpolishedtabletsengravedwithGreekinscriptions。
Itisaworldofpreciousrelics，awildernessofmarredandmutilatedgems。Andyetwhatarethesethingstothewondersthatlieburiedhereundertheground？AtConstantinople，atPisa，inthecitiesofSpain，aregreatmosquesandcathedrals，whosegrandestcolumnscamefromthetemplesandpalacesofEphesus，andyetonehasonlytoscratchthegroundheretomatchthem。Weshallneverknowwhatmagnificenceis，untilthisimperialcityislaidbaretothesun。
Thefinestpieceofsculpturewehaveyetseenandtheonethatimpressedusmost，（forwedonotknowmuchaboutartandcannoteasilyworkupourselvesintoecstaciesoverit，）isonethatliesinthisoldtheatreofEphesuswhichSt。Paul\'sriothasmadesocelebrated。Itisonlytheheadlessbodyofaman，cladinacoatofmail，withaMedusaheaduponthebreast—plate，butwefeelpersuadedthatsuchdignityandsuchmajestywereneverthrownintoaformofstonebefore。
Whatbuilderstheywere，thesemenofantiquity！Themassivearchesofsomeoftheseruinsrestuponpiersthatarefifteenfeetsquareandbuiltentirelyofsolidblocksofmarble，someofwhichareaslargeasaSaratogatrunk，andsomethesizeofaboarding—housesofa。Theyarenotshellsorshaftsofstonefilledinsidewithrubbish，butthewholepierisamassofsolidmasonry。Vastarches，thatmayhavebeenthegatesofthecity，arebuiltinthesameway。Theyhavebravedthestormsandsiegesofthreethousandyears，andhavebeenshakenbymanyanearthquake，butstilltheystand。Whentheydigalongsideofthem，theyfindrangesofponderousmasonrythatareasperfectineverydetailastheywerethedaythoseoldCyclopiangiantsfinishedthem。AnEnglishCompanyisgoingtoexcavateEphesus——andthen！
AndnowamIremindedof——IntheMountofPion，yonder，istheCaveoftheSevenSleepers。Onceuponatime，aboutfifteenhundredyearsago，sevenyoungmenlivedneareachotherinEphesus，whobelongedtothedespisedsectoftheChristians。ItcametopassthatthegoodKingMaximilianus，（Iamtellingthisstoryfornicelittleboysandgirls，）itcametopass，Isay，thatthegoodKingMaximilianusfelltopersecutingtheChristians，andastimerolledonhemadeitverywarmforthem。Sothesevenyoungmensaidonetotheother，letusgetupandtravel。Andtheygotupandtraveled。Theytarriednottobidtheirfathersandmothersgood—bye，oranyfriendtheyknew。Theyonlytookcertainmoneyswhichtheirparentshad，andgarmentsthatbelongeduntotheirfriends，wherebytheymightrememberthemwhenfaraway;andtheytookalsothedogKetmehr，whichwasthepropertyoftheirneighborMalchus，becausethebeastdidrunhisheadintoanoosewhichoneoftheyoungmenwascarryingcarelessly，andtheyhadnottimetoreleasehim;andtheytookalsocertainchickensthatseemedlonelyintheneighboringcoops，andlikewisesomebottlesofcuriousliquorsthatstoodnearthegrocer\'swindow;andthentheydepartedfromthecity。By—and—bytheycametoamarvelouscaveintheHillofPionandenteredintoitandfeasted，andpresentlytheyhurriedonagain。Buttheyforgotthebottlesofcuriousliquors，andleftthembehind。Theytraveledinmanylands，andhadmanystrangeadventures。Theywerevirtuousyoungmen，andlostnoopportunitythatfellintheirwaytomaketheirlivelihood。
Theirmottowasinthesewords，namely，\"Procrastinationisthethiefoftime。\"Andso，whenevertheydidcomeuponamanwhowasalone，theysaid，Behold，thispersonhaththewherewithal——letusgothroughhim。
Andtheywentthroughhim。Attheendoffiveyearstheyhadwaxedtiredoftravelandadventure，andlongedtorevisittheiroldhomeagainandhearthevoicesandseethefacesthatweredearuntotheiryouth。Thereforetheywentthroughsuchpartiesasfellintheirwaywheretheysojournedatthattime，andjourneyed—backtowardEphesusagain。ForthegoodKingMaximilianuswasbecomeconverteduntothenewfaith，andtheChristiansrejoicedbecausetheywerenolongerpersecuted。Onedayasthesunwentdown，theycametothecaveintheMountofPion，andtheysaid，eachtohisfellow，Letussleephere，andgoandfeastandmakemerrywithourfriendswhenthemorningcometh。Andeachofthesevenlifteduphisvoiceandsaid，Itisawhiz。Sotheywentin，andlo，wheretheyhadputthem，therelaythebottlesofstrangeliquors，andtheyjudgedthatagehadnotimpairedtheirexcellence。Whereinthewandererswereright，andtheheadsofthesamewerelevel。Soeachoftheyoungmendranksixbottles，andbeholdtheyfeltverytired，then，andlaydownandsleptsoundly。
Whentheyawoke，oneofthem，Johannes——surnamedSmithianus——said，Wearenaked。Anditwasso。Theirraimentwasallgone，andthemoneywhichtheyhadgottenfromastrangerwhomtheyhadproceededthroughastheyapproachedthecity，waslyingupontheground，corrodedandrustedanddefaced。LikewisethedogKetmehrwasgone，andnothingsavethebrassthatwasuponhiscollarremained。Theywonderedmuchatthesethings。
Buttheytookthemoney，andtheywrappedabouttheirbodiessomeleaves，andcameuptothetopofthehill。Thenweretheyperplexed。ThewonderfultempleofDianawasgone;manygrandedificestheyhadneverseenbeforestoodinthecity;meninstrangegarbsmovedaboutthestreets，andeverythingwaschanged。
Johannessaid，IthardlyseemslikeEphesus。Yethereisthegreatgymnasium;
hereisthemightytheatre，whereinIhaveseenseventythousandmenassembled;
hereistheAgora;thereisthefontwherethesaintedJohntheBaptistimmersedtheconverts;yonderistheprisonofthegoodSt。Paul，wherewealldidusetogototouchtheancientchainsthatboundhimandbecuredofourdistempers;IseethetombofthediscipleLuke，andafaroffisthechurchwhereinreposetheashesoftheholyJohn，wheretheChristiansofEphesusgotwiceayeartogatherthedustfromthetomb，whichisabletomakebodieswholeagainthatarecorruptedbydisease，andcleansethesoulfromsin;butseehowthewharvesencroachuponthesea，andwhatmultitudesofshipsareanchoredinthebay;see，also，howthecityhathstretchedabroad，faroverthevalleybehindPion，andevenuntothewallsofAyassalook;andlo，allthehillsarewhitewithpalacesandribbedwithcolonnadesofmarble。HowmightyisEphesusbecome！
Andwonderingatwhattheireyeshadseen，theywentdownintothecityandpurchasedgarmentsandclothedthemselves。Andwhentheywouldhavepassedon，themerchantbitthecoinswhichtheyhadgivenhim，withhisteeth，andturnedthemaboutandlookedcuriouslyuponthem，andcastthemuponhiscounter，andlistenediftheyrang;andthenhesaid，Thesebebogus。Andtheysaid，DepartthoutoHades，andwenttheirway。Whentheywerecometotheirhouses，theyrecognizedthem，albeittheyseemedoldandmean;andtheyrejoiced，andwereglad。Theyrantothedoors，andknocked，andstrangersopened，andlookedinquringlyuponthem。Andtheysaid，withgreatexcitement，whiletheirheartsbeathigh，andthecolorintheirfacescameandwent，Whereismyfather？Whereismymother？WhereareDionysiusandSerapion，andPericles，andDecius？Andthestrangersthatopenedsaid，Weknownotthese。TheSevensaid，How，youknowthemnot？Howlonghaveyedwelthere，andwhitheraretheygonethatdweltherebeforeye？Andthestrangerssaid，Yeplayuponuswithajest，youngmen;weandourfathershavesojournedundertheseroofsthesesixgenerations;
thenamesyeutterrotuponthetombs，andtheythatborethemhaveruntheirbriefrace，havelaughedandsung，havebornethesorrowsandthewearinessthatwereallottedthem，andareatrest;fornine—scoreyearsthesummershavecomeandgone，andtheautumnleaveshavefallen，sincetherosesfadedoutoftheircheeksandtheylaidthemtosleepwiththedead。
Thenthesevenyoungmenturnedthemawayfromtheirhomes，andthestrangersshutthedoorsuponthem。Thewanderersmarveledgreatly，andlookedintothefacesofalltheymet，ashopingtofindonethattheyknew;butallwerestrange，andpassedthembyandspakenofriendlyword。
Theyweresoredistressedandsad。Presentlytheyspakeuntoacitizenandsaid，WhoisKinginEphesus？Andthecitizenansweredandsaid，WhencecomeyethatyeknownotthatgreatLaertiusreignsinEphesus？Theylookedoneattheother，greatlyperplexed，andpresentlyaskedagain，Where，then，isthegoodKingMaximilianus？Thecitizenmovedhimapart，asonewhoisafraid，andsaid，Verilythesemenbemad，anddreamdreams，elsewouldtheyknowthattheKingwhereoftheyspeakisdeadabovetwohundredyearsagone。
ThenthescalesfellfromtheeyesoftheSeven，andonesaid，Alas，thatwedrankofthecuriousliquors。Theyhavemadeusweary，andindreamlesssleepthesetwolongcenturieshavewelain。Ourhomesaredesolate，ourfriendsaredead。Behold，thejigisup——letusdie。Andthatsamedaywenttheyforthandlaidthemdownanddied。Andinthatself—sameday，likewise，theSeven—updidceaseinEphesus，forthattheSeventhatwereupweredownagain，anddepartedanddeadwithal。Andthenamesthatbeupontheirtombs，evenuntothistime，areJohannesSmithianus，Trumps，Gift，High，andLow，Jack，andTheGame。Andwiththesleepersliealsothebottleswherinwereoncethecuriousliquors:anduponthemiswrit，inancientletters，suchwordsasthese——Damesofheathengodsofoldentime，perchance:Rumpunch，Jinsling，Egnog。
SuchisthestoryoftheSevenSleepers，（withslightvariations，）andIknowitistrue，becauseIhaveseenthecavemyself。
Really，sofirmafaithhadtheancientsthislegend，thataslateaseightorninehundredyearsago，learnedtravelershelditinsuperstitiousfear。Twoofthemrecordthattheyventuredintoit，butranquicklyoutagain，notdaringtotarrylesttheyshouldfallasleepandoutlivetheirgreatgrand—childrenacenturyorso。Evenatthisdaytheignorantdenizensoftheneighboringcountryprefernottosleepinit。
Chapter41
WhenIlastmadeamemorandum，wewereatEphesus。WeareinSyria，now，encampedinthemountainaofLebanon。Theinterregnumhasbeenlong，bothastotimeanddistance。WebroughtnotarelicfromEphesus！AftergatheringupfragmentsofsculpturedmarblesandbreakingornamentsfromtheinteriorworkoftheMosques;andafterbringingthematacostofinfinitetroubleandfatigue，fivemilesonmulebacktotherailwaydepot，agovernmentofficercompelledallwhohadsuchthingstodisgorge！HehadanorderfromConstantinopletolookoutforourparty，andseethatwecarriednothingoff。Itwasawise，ajust，andawell—deservedrebuke，butitcreatedasensation。Ineverresistatemptationtoplunderastranger\'spremiseswithoutfeelinginsufferablyvainaboutit。ThistimeIfeltproudbeyondexpression。IwassereneinthemidstofthescoldingsthatwereheapedupontheOttomangovernmentforitsaffrontofferedtoapleasuringpartyofentirelyrespectablegentlemenandladiesIsaid，\"Wethathavefreesouls，ittouchesusnot。\"Theshoenotonlypinchedourparty，butitpinchedhard;aprincipalsuffererdiscoveredthattheimperialorderwasinclosedinanenvelopbearingthesealoftheBritishEmbassyatConstantinople，andthereforemusthavebeeninspiredbytherepresentativeoftheQueen。Thiswasbad——verybad。ComingsolelyfromtheOttomans，itmighthavesignifiedonlyOttomanhatredofChristians，andavulgarignoranceastogenteelmethodsofexpressingit;butcomingfromtheChristianized，educated，politicBritishlegation，itsimplyintimatedthatwewereasortofgentlemenandladieswhowouldbearwatching！Sothepartyregardedit，andwereincensedaccordingly。Thetruthdoubtlesswas，thatthesameprecautionswouldhavebeentakenagainstanytravelers，becausetheEnglishCompanywhohaveacquiredtherighttoexcavateEphesus，andhavepaidagreatsumforthatright，needtobeprotected，anddeservetobe。Theycannotaffordtoruntheriskofhavingtheirhospitalityabusedbytravelers，especiallysincetravelersaresuchnotorionsscornersofhonestbehavior。
WesailedfromSmyrna，inthewildestspiritofexpectancy，forthechieffeature，thegrandgoaloftheexpedition，wasnearathand——wewereapproachingtheHolyLand！Suchaburrowingintotheholdfortrunksthathadlainburiedforweeks，yesformonths;suchahurryingtoandfroabovedecksandbelow;suchariotoussystemofpackingandunpacking;suchalitteringupofthecabinswithshirtsandskirts，andindescribableandunclassableoddsandends;suchamakingupofbundles，andsettingapartofumbrellas，greenspectaclesandthickveils;suchacriticalinspectionofsaddlesandbridlesthathadneveryettouchedhorses;suchacleaningandloadingofrevolversandexaminingofbowie—knives;suchahalf—solingoftheseatsofpantaloonswithserviceablebuckskin;thensuchaporingoverancientmaps;suchareadingupofBiblesandPalestinetravels;suchamarkingoutofroutes;suchexasperatingeffortstodivideupthecompanyintolittlebandsofcongenialspiritswhomightmakethelongandarduousJourneywithoutquarreling;andmorning，noonandnight，suchmass—meetingsinthecabins，suchspeech—making，suchsagesuggesting，suchworryingandquarreling，andsuchageneralraisingoftheverymischief，wasneverseenintheshipbefore！
Butitisallovernow。Wearecutupintopartiesofsixoreight，andbythistimearescatteredfarandwide。Oursistheonlyone，however，thatisventuringonwhatiscalled\"thelongtrip\"——thatis，outintoSyria，byBaalbectoDamascus，andthencedownthroughthefulllengthofPalestine。Itwouldbeatedious，andalsoatooriskyjourney，atthishotseasonoftheyear，foranybutstrong，healthymen，accustomedsomewhattofatigueandroughlifeintheopenair。Theotherpartieswilltakeshorterjourneys。
ForthelasttwomonthswehavebeeninaworryaboutoneportionofthisHolyLandpilgrimage。Irefertotransportationservice。WeknewverywellthatPalestinewasacountrywhichdidnotdoalargepassengerbusiness，andeverymanwecameacrosswhoknewanythingaboutitgaveustounderstandthatnothalfofourpartywouldbeabletogetdragomenandanimals。AtConstantinopleeverybodyfelltotelegraphingtheAmericanConsulsatAlexandriaandBeirouttogivenoticethatwewanteddragomenandtransportation。
Weweredesperate——wouldtakehorses，jackasses，cameleopards，kangaroos——anything。AtSmyrna，moretelegraphingwasdone，tothesameend。Alsafearingfortheworst，wetelegraphedforalargenumberofseatsinthediligenceforDamascus，andhorsesfortheruinsofBaalbec。
Asmighthavebeenexpected，anotiongotabroadinSyriaandEgyptthatthewholepopulationoftheProvinceofAmerica（theTurksconsiderusatriflinglittleprovinceinsomeunvisitedcorneroftheworld，）werecomingtotheHolyLand——andso，whenwegottoBeiroutyesterday，wefoundtheplacefullofdragomenandtheiroutfits。WehadallintendedtogobydiligencetoDamascus，andswitchofftoBaalbecaswewentalong——becauseweexpectedtorejointheship，gotoMonntCarmel，andtaketothewoodsfromthere。However，whenourownprivatepartyofeightfoundthatitwaspossible，andproperenough，tomakethe\"longtrip，\"weadoptedthatprogramme。WehaveneverbeenmuchtroubletoaConsulbefore，butwehavebeenafearfulnuisancetoourConsulatBeirout。ImentionthisbecauseIcannothelpadmiringhispatience，hisindustry，andhisaccommodatingspirit。Imentionitalso，becauseIthinksomeofourship\'scompanydidnotgivehimasfullcreditforhisexcellentservicesashedeserved。
Well，outofoureight，threewereselectedtoattendtoallbusinessconnectedwiththeexpedition。TherestofushadnothingtodobutlookatthebeautifulcityofBeirout，withitsbright，newhousesnestledamongawildernessofgreenshrubberyspreadabroadoveranuplandthatslopedgentlydowntothesea;andalsoatthemountainsofLebanonthatenvironit;andlikewisetobatheinthetransparentbluewaterthatrolleditsbillowsabouttheship（wedidnotknowthereweresharksthere。）Wehadalsotorangeupanddownthroughthetownandlookatthecostumes。Thesearepicturesqueandfanciful，butnotsovariedasatConstantinopleandSmyrna;thewomenofBeiroutaddanagony——inthetwoformercitiesthesexwearathinveilwhichonecanseethrough（andtheyoftenexposetheirancles，）butatBeirouttheycovertheirentirefaceswithdark—coloredorblackveils，sothattheylooklikemummies，andthenexposetheirbreaststothepublic。Ayounggentleman（IbelievehewasaGreek，）volunteeredtoshowusaroundthecity，andsaiditwouldaffordhimgreatpleasure，becausehewasstudyingEnglishandwantedpracticeinthatlanguage。Whenwehadfinishedtherounds，however，hecalledforremuneration——saidhehopedthegentlemenwouldgivehimatrifleinthewayofafewpiastres（equivalenttoafewfivecentpieces。）Wedidso。TheConsu1wassurprisedwhenheheardit，andsaidheknewtheyoungfellow\'sfamilyverywell，andthattheywereanoldandhighlyrespectablef\'amilyandworthahundredandfiftythousanddollars！Somepeople，sosituated，wouldhavebeenashamedoftheberthhehadwithusandhismannerofcrawlingintoit。
Attheappointedtimeourbusineescommitteereported，andsaidallthingswereinreaddress——thatweweretostartto—day，withhorses，packanimals，andtents，andgotoBaalbec，Damascus，theSeaofTiberias，andthencesouthwardbythewayofthesceneofJacob\'sDreamandothernotableBiblelocalitiestoJerusalem——fromthenceprobablytotheDeadSea，butpossiblynot——andthenstrikefortheoceanandrejointheshipthreeorfourweekshenceatJoppa;terms，fivedollarsadayapiece，ingold，andeverythingtobefurnishedbythedragoman。Theysaidwewouldlieaswellasatahotel。Ihadreadsomethinglikethatbefore，anddidnotshamemyjudgmentbybelievingawordofit。Isaidnothing，however，butpackedupablanketandashawltosleepin，pipesandtobacco，twoorthreewoollenshirts，aportfolio，aguide—book，andaBible。Ialsotookalongatowelandacakeofsoap，toinspirerespectintheArabs，whowouldtakemeforakingindisguise。
Weweretoselectourhorsesat3P。M。AtthathourAbraham，thedragoman，marshaledthembeforeus。WithallsolemnityIsetitdownhere，thatthosehorseswerethehardestlotIeverdidcomeacross，andtheiraccoutrementswereinexquisitekeepingwiththeirstyle。Onebrutehadaneyeout;anotherhadhistailsawedoffclose，likearabbit，andwasproudofit;anotherhadabonyridgerunningfromhisnecktohistail，likeoneofthoseruinedaqueductsoneseesaboutRome，andhadaneckonhimlikeabowsprit;theyalllimped，andhadsorebacks，andlikewiserawplacesandoldscalesscatteredabouttheirpersonslikebrassnailsinahairtrunk;theirgaitsweremarveloustocontemplate，andrepletewithvarietyunderwaytheprocessionlookedlikeafleetinastorm。Itwasfearful。Bluchershookhisheadandsaid:\"Thatdragonisgoingtogethimselfintotroublefetchingtheseoldcratesoutofthehospitalthewaytheyare，unlesshehasgotapermit。\"