WearrivedintwentyminutesfromtheEmperor\'s。Itisalovelyplace。
Thebeautifulpalacenestlesamongthegrandoldgrovesofthepark，theparksitsinthelapofthepicturesquecragsandhills，andbothlookoutuponthebreezyocean。Intheparkarerusticseats，hereandthere，insecludednooksthataredarkwithshade;therearerivuletsofcrystalwater;therearelakelets，withinviting，grassybanks;thereareglimpsesofsparklingcascadesthroughopeningsinthewildernessoffoliage;therearestreamsofclearwatergushingfrommimicknotsonthetrunksofforesttrees;thereareminiaturemarbletemplesperchedupongrayoldcrags;
thereareairylookoutswhenceonemaygazeuponabroadexpanseoflandscapeandocean。ThepalaceismodeledafterthechoicestformsofGrecianarchitecture，anditswidecolonnadessurroundacentralcourtthatisbankedwithrareflowersthatfilltheplacewiththeirfragrance，andintheirmidstspringsafountainthatcoolsthesummerair，andmaypossiblybreedmosquitoes，butIdonotthinkitdoes。
TheGrandDukeandhisDuchesscameout，andthepresentationceremonieswereassimpleastheyhadbeenattheEmperor\'s。Inafewminutes，conversationwasunderway，asbefore。TheEmpressappearedintheverandah，andthelittleGrandDuchesscameoutintothecrowd。Theyhadbeatenusthere。
Inafewminutes，theEmperorcamehimselfonhorseback。Itwasverypleasant。
Youcanappreciateitifyouhaveevervisitedroyaltyandfeltoccasionallythatpossiblyyoumightbewearingoutyourwelcome——thoughasageneralthing，Ibelieve，royaltyisnotscrupulousaboutdischargingyouwhenitisdonewithyou。
TheGrandDukeisthethirdbrotheroftheEmperor，isaboutthirtysevenyearsold，perhaps，andistheprinceliestfigureinRussia。HeiseventallerthantheCzar，asstraightasanIndian，andbearshimselflikeoneofthosegorgeousknightswereadaboutinromancesoftheCrusades。
Helookslikeagreatheartedfellowwhowouldpitchanenemyintotheriverinamoment，andthenjumpinandriskhislifefishinghimoutagain。Thestoriestheytellofhimshowhimtobeofabraveandgenerousnature。HemusthavebeendesirousofprovingthatAmericanswerewelcomeguestsintheimperialpalacesofRussia，becauseherodeallthewaytoYaltaandescortedourprocessiontotheEmperor¹shimself，andkepthisaidsscurryingabout，clearingtheroadandofferingassistancewhereveritcouldbeneeded。Wewereratherfamiliarwithhimthen，becausewedidnotknowwhohewas。Werecognizedhimnow，andappreciatedthefriendlyspiritthatpromptedhimtodousafavorthatanyotherGrandDukeintheworldwouldhavedoubtlessdeclinedtodo。Hehadplentyofservitorswhomhecouldhavesent，buthechosetoattendtothematterhimself。
TheGrandDukewasdressedinthehandsomeandshowyuniformofaCossackofficer。TheGrandDuchesshadonawhitealpacarobe，withtheseamsandgorestrimmedwithblackbarblace，andalittlegrayhatwithafeatherofthesamecolor。Sheisyoung，ratherprettymodestandunpretending，andfullofwinningpoliteness。
Ourpartywalkedallthroughthehouse，andthenthenobilityescortedthemalloverthegrounds，andfinallybroughtthembacktothepalaceabouthalfpasttwoo\'clocktobreakfast。Theycalleditbreakfast，butwewouldhavecalleditluncheon。Itconsistedoftwokindsofwine;
tea，bread，cheese，andcoldmeats，andwasservedonthecentretablesinthereceptionroomandtheverandahs——anywherethatwasconvenient;
therewasnoceremony。Itwasasortofpicnic。Ihadheardbeforethatweweretobreakfastthere，butBluchersaidhebelievedBaker\'sboyhadsuggestedittohisImperialHighness。Ithinknot——thoughitwouldbelikehim。Baker\'sboyisthefaminebreederoftheship。Heisalwayshungry。Theysayhegoesaboutthestateroomswhenthepassengersareout，andeatsupallthesoap。Andtheysayheeatsoakum。Theysayhewilleatanythinghecangetbetweenmeals，butheprefersoakum。Hedoesnotlikeoakumfordinner，buthelikesitforalunch，atoddhours，oranythingthatway。Itmakeshimverydisagreeable，becauseitmakeshisbreathbad，andkeepshisteethallstuckupwithtar。Baker\'sboymayhavesuggestedthebreakfast，butIhopehedidnot。Itwentoffwell，anyhow。Theillustrioushostmovedaboutfromplacetoplace，andhelpedtodestroytheprovisionsandkeeptheconversationlively，andtheGrandDuchesstalkedwiththeverandahpartiesandsuchashadsatisfiedtheirappetitesandstraggledoutfromthereceptionroom。
TheGrandDuke\'steawasdelicious。Theygiveonealemontosqueezeintoit，oricedmilk，ifheprefersit。Theformerisbest。ThisteaisbroughtoverlandfromChina。Itinjuresthearticletotransportitbysea。
Whenitwastimetogo，webadeourdistinguishedhostsgoodbye，andtheyretiredhappyandcontentedtotheirapartmentstocounttheirspoons。
Wehadspentthebestpartofhalfadayinthehomeofroyalty，andhadbeenascheerfulandcomfortableallthetimeaswecouldhavebeenintheship。IwouldassoonhavethoughtofbeingcheerfulinAbraham\'sbosomasinthepalaceofanEmperor。IsupposedthatEmperorswereterriblepeople。Ithoughttheyneverdidanythingbutwearmagnificentcrownsandredvelvetdressinggownswithdabsofwoolsewedontheminspots，andsitonthronesandscowlattheflunkiesandthepeopleintheparquette，andorderDukesandDuchessesofftoexecution。Ifind，however，thatwhenoneissofortunateastogetbehindthescenesandseethemathomeandintheprivacyoftheirfiresides，theyarestrangelylikecommonmortals。
Theyarepleasantertolookuponthenthantheyareintheirtheatricalaspect。Itseemstocomeasnaturaltothemtodressandactlikeotherpeopleasitistoputafriend\'scedarpencilinyourpocketwhenyouaredoneusingit。ButIcanneverhaveanyconfidenceinthetinselkingsofthetheatreafterthis。Itwillbeagreatloss。Iusedtotakesuchathrillingpleasureinthem。But，hereafter，Iwillturnmesadlyawayandsay;
\"Thisdoesnotanswer——thisisn¹tthestyleofkingthatIamacquaintedwith。\"
Whentheyswaggeraroundthestageinjeweledcrownsandsplendidrobes，IshallfeelboundtoobservethatalltheEmperorsthateverIwaspersonallyacquaintedwithworethecommonestsortofclothes，anddidnotswagger。
Andwhentheycomeonthestageattendedbyavastbodyguardofsupesinhelmetsandtinbreastplates，itwillbemydutyaswellasmypleasuretoinformtheignorantthatnocrownedheadofmyacquaintancehasasoldieranywhereabouthishouseorhisperson。
Possiblyitmaybethoughtthatourpartytarriedtoolong，ordidotherimproperthings，butsuchwasnotthecase。Thecompanyfeltthattheywereoccupyinganunusuallyresponsibleposition——theywererepresentingthepeopleofAmerica，nottheGovernment——andthereforetheywerecarefultodotheirbesttoperformtheirhighmissionwithcredit。
Ontheotherhand，theImperialfamilies，nodoubt，consideredthatinentertainingustheyweremoreespeciallyentertainingthepeopleofAmericathantheycouldbyshoweringattentionsonawholeplatoonofministersplenipotentiaryandthereforetheygavetotheeventitsfullestsignificance，asanexpressionofgoodwillandfriendlyfeelingtowardtheentirecountry。
Wetookthekindnesseswereceivedasattentionsthusdirected，ofcourse，andnottoourselvesasaparty。Thatwefeltapersonalprideinbeingreceivedastherepresentativesofanation，wedonotdeny;thatwefeltanationalprideinthewarmcordialityofthatreception，cannotbedoubted。
Ourpoethasbeenrigidlysuppressed，fromthetimeweletgotheanchor。
WhenitwasannouncedthatweweregoingtovisittheEmperorofRussia，thefountainsofhisgreatdeepwerebrokenup，andherainedineffableboshforfourand—twentyhours。Ouroriginalanxietyastowhatweweregoingtodowithourselves，wassuddenlytransformedintoanxietyaboutwhatweweregoingtodowithourpoet。Theproblemwassolvedatlast。Twoalternativeswereofferedhim——hemusteitherswearadreadfuloaththathewouldnotissuealineofhispoetrywhilehewasintheCzar\'sdominions，orelseremainunderguardonboardtheshipuntilweweresafeatConstantinopleagain。Hefoughtthedilemmalong，butyieldedatlast。
Itwasagreatdeliverance。Perhapsthesavagereaderwouldlikeaspecimenofhisstyle。Idonotmeanthistermtobeoffensive。Ionlyuseitbecause\"thegentlereader\"hasbeenusedsooftenthatanychangefromitcannotbutberefreshing:\"Saveusandsanctifyus，andfinally，then，SeegoodprovisionsweenjoywhilewejourneytoJerusalem。
Forsomanproposes，whichitismosttrueAndtimewillwaitfornone，norforustoo。\"Theseahasbeenunusuallyroughallday。However，wehavehadalivelytimeofit，anyhow。Wehavehadquitearunofvisitors。TheGovernorGeneralcame，andwereceivedhimwithasaluteofnineguns。Hebroughthisfamilywithhim。Iobservedthatcarpetswerespreadfromthepierheadtohiscarriageforhimtowalkon，thoughIhaveseenhimwalktherewithoutanycarpetwhenhewasnotonbusiness。Ithoughtmaybehehadwhattheaccidentalinsurancepeoplemightcallanextrahazardouspolish（\"policy\"
joke，butnotabovemediocrity，）onhisboots，andwishedtoprotectthem，butIexaminedandcouldnotseethattheywereblackedanybetterthanusual。Itmayhavebeenthathehadforgottenhiscarpet，before，buthedidnothaveitwithhim，anyhow。Hewasanexceedinglypleasantoldgentleman;
wealllikedhim，especiallyBlucher。Whenhewentaway，Blucherinvitedhimtocomeagainandfetchhiscarpetalong。
PrinceDolgoroukiandaGrandAdmiralortwo，whomwehadseenyesterdayatthereception，cameonboardalso。Iwasalittledistantwiththeseparties，atfirst，becausewhenIhavebeenvisitingEmperorsIdonotliketobetoofamiliarwithpeopleIonlyknowbyreputation，andwhosemoralcharactersandstandinginsocietyIcannotbethoroughlyacquaintedwith。Ijudgeditbesttobealittleoffish，atfirst。Isaidtomyself，PrincesandCountsandGrandAdmiralsareverywell，buttheyarenotEmperors，andonecannotbetooparticularaboutwhoheassociateswith。
BaronWrangelcame，also。HeusedtobeRussianAmbassadoratWashington。
ItoldhimIhadanunclewhofelldownashaftandbrokehimselfintwo，asmuchasayearbeforethat。Thatwasafalsehood，butthenIwasnotgoingtoletanymaneclipsemeonsurprisingadventures，merelyforthewantofalittleinvention。TheBaronisafineman，andissaidtostandhighintheEmperor\'sconfidenceandesteem。
BaronUngernSternberg，aboisterous，wholesouledoldnobleman，camewiththerest。Heisamanofprogressandenterprise——arepresentativemanoftheage。HeistheChiefDirectoroftherailwaysystemofRussia——asortofrailroadking。InhislineheismakingthingsmovealonginthiscountryHehastraveledextensivelyinAmerica。Hesayshehastriedconvictlaboronhisrailroads，andwithperfectsuccess。Hesaystheconvict\"
workwell，andarequietandpeaceable。Heobservedthatheemploysnearlytenthousandofthemnow。Thisappearedtobeanothercallonmyresources。
Iwasequaltotheemergency。IsaidwehadeightythousandconvictsemployedontherailwaysinAmerica——allofthemundersentenceofdeathformurderinthefirstdegree。Thatclosedhimout。
WehadGeneralTodtleben（thefamousdefenderofSebastopol，duringthesiege，）andmanyinferiorarmyandalsonavyofficers，andanumberofunofficialRussianladiesandgentlemen。Naturally，achampagneluncheonwasinorder，andwasaccomplishedwithoutlossoflife。Toastsandjokesweredischargedfreely，butnospeechesweremadesaveonethankingtheEmperorandtheGrandDuke，throughtheGovernor—General，forourhospitablereception，andonebytheGovernorGeneralinreply，inwhichhereturnedtheEmperor\'sthanksforthespeech，etc。，etc。
Chapter38
WereturnedtoConstantinople，andafteradayortwospentinexhaustingmarchesaboutthecityandvoyagesuptheGoldenHornincaiques，westeamedawayagain。WepassedthroughtheSeaofMarmoraandtheDardanelles，andsteeredforanewland——anewonetous，atleast——Asia。Wehadasyetonlyacquiredabowingacquaintancewithit，throughpleasureexcursionstoScutariandtheregionsroundabout。
WepassedbetweenLemnosandMytilene，andsawthemaswehadseenElbaandtheBalearicIsles——merebulkyshapes，withthesofteningmistsofdistanceuponthem——whalesinafog，asitwere。Thenweheldourcoursesouthward，andbeganto\"readup\"celebratedSmyrna。
Atallhoursofthedayandnightthesailorsintheforecastleamusedthemselvesandaggravatedusbyburlesquingourvisittoroyalty。TheopeningparagraphofourAddresstotheEmperorwasframedasfollows:
\"WeareahandfulofprivatecitizensofAmerica，travelingsimplyforrecreation——andunostentatiously，asbecomesourunofficialstate——and，therefore，wehavenoexcusetotenderforpresentingourselvesbeforeyourMajesty，savethedesireofofferingourgratefulacknowledgmentstothelordofarealm，which，throughgoodandthroughevilreport，hasbeenthesteadfastfriendofthelandwelovesowell。\"
Thethirdcook，crownedwitharesplendenttinbasinandwrappedroyallyinatable—clothmottledwithgrease—spotsandcoffeestains，andbearingasceptrethatlookedstrangelylikeabelaying—pin，walkeduponadilapidatedcarpetandperchedhimselfonthecapstan，carelessoftheflyingspray;
histarredandweather—beatenChamberlains，DukesandLordHighAdmiralssurroundedhim，arrayedinallthepompthatsparetarpaulinsandremnantsofoldsailscouldfurnish。Thenthevisiting\"watchbelow，\"transformedintogracelessladiesanduncouthpilgrims，byrudetravestiesuponwaterfalls，hoopskirts，whitekidglovesandswallow—tailcoats，movedsolemnlyupthecompanionway，andbowinglow，beganasystemofcomplicatedandextraordinarysmilingwhichfewmonarchscouldlookuponandlive。Thenthemockconsul，aslush—plastereddeck—sweep，drewoutasoiledfragmentofpaperandproceededtoread，laboriously\"ToHisImperialMajesty，AlexanderII。，EmperorofRussia:
\"WeareahandfulofprivatecitizensofAmerica，travelingsimplyforrecreation，——andunostentatiously，asbecomesourunofficialstate——andtherefore，wehavenoexcusetotenderforpresentingourselvesbeforeyourMajesty——\"
TheEmperor——\"Thenwhatthedevildidyoucomefor？\"
——\"Savethedesireofofferingourgratefulacknowledgmentstothelordofarealmwhich——\"
TheEmperor——\"Oh，d——ntheAddress！——readittothepolice。
Chamberlain，takethesepeopleovertomybrother，theGrandDuke\'s，andgivethemasquaremeal。Adieu！Iamhappy——Iamgratified——Iamdelighted——I
ambored。Adieu，adieu——vamostheranch！TheFirstGroomofthePalacewillproceedtocounttheportablearticlesofvaluebelongingtothepremises。\"
Thefarcethenclosed，toberepeatedagainwitheverychangeofthewatches，andembellishedwithnewandstillmoreextravagantinventionsofpompandconversation。
Atalltimesofthedayandnightthephraseologyofthattiresomeaddressfelluponourears。Grimysailorscamedownoutoftheforetopplacidlyannouncingthemselvesas\"ahandfulofprivatecitizensofAmerica，travelingsimplyforrecreationandunostentatiously，\"etc。;thecoalpassersmovedtotheirdutiesintheprofounddepthsoftheship，explainingtheblacknessoftheirfacesandtheiruncouthnessofdress，withthereminderthattheywere\"ahandfulofprivatecitizens，travelingsimplyforrecreation，\"etc。，andwhenthecryrangthroughthevesselatmidnight:
\"EIGHTBELLS！——LARBOARDWATCH，TURNOUT！\"thelarboardwatchcamegapingandstretchingoutoftheirden，withtheeverlastingformula:\"Aye—aye，sir！WeareahandfulofprivatecitizensofAmerica，travelingsimplyforrecreation，andunostentatiously，asbecomesourunofficialstate！\"
AsIwasamemberofthecommittee，andhelpedtoframetheAddress，thesesarcasmscamehometome。IneverheardasailorproclaiminghimselfasahandfulofAmericancitizenstravelingforrecreation，butIwishedhemighttripandfalloverboard，andsoreducehishandfulbyoneindividual，atleast。IneverwassotiredofanyonephraseasthesailorsmademeoftheopeningsentenceoftheAddresstotheEmperorofRussia。
ThisseaportofSmyrna，ourfirstnotableacquaintanceinAsia，isacloselypackedcityofonehundredandthirtythousandinhabitants，and，likeConstantinople，ithasnooutskirts。Itisascloselypackedatitsouteredgesasitisinthecentre，andthenthehabitationsleavesuddenlyoffandtheplainbeyondseemshouseless。ItisjustlikeanyotherOrientalcity。Thatistosay，itsMoslemhousesareheavyanddark，andascomfortlessassomanytombs;itsstreetsarecrooked，rude]yandroughlypaved，andasnarrowasanordinarystaircase;thestreetsuniformlycarryamantoanyotherplacethantheonehewantstogoto，andsurprisehimbylandinghiminthemostunexpectedlocalities;businessischieflycarriedoningreatcoveredbazaars，celledlikeahoneycombwithinnumerableshopsnolargerthanacommoncloset，andthewholehivecutupintoamazeofalleysaboutwideenoughtoaccommodatealadencamel，andwellcalculatedtoconfuseastrangerandeventuallylosehim;everywherethereisdirt，everywheretherearefleas，everywheretherearelean，broken—hearteddogs;everyalleyisthrongedwithpeople;whereveryoulook，youreyerestsuponawildmasqueradeofextravagantcostumes;theworkshopsareallopentothestreets，andtheworkmenvisible;allmannerofsoundsassailtheear，andoverthemallringsoutthemuezzin\'scryfromsometallminaret，callingthefaithfulvagabondstoprayer;andsuperiortothecalltoprayer，thenoisesinthestreets，theinterestofthecostumes——superiortoeverything，andclaimingthebulkofat—tentionfirst，last，andallthetime——isacombinationofMohammedanstenches，towhichthesmellofevenaChinesequarterwouldbeaspleasantastheroastingodorsofthefattedcalftothenostrilsofthereturningProdigal。SuchisOrientalluxury——suchisOrientalsplendor！Wereadaboutitallourdays，butwecomprehenditnotuntilweseeit。Smyrnaisaveryoldcity。ItsnameoccursseveraltimesintheBible，oneortwoofthedisciplesofChristvisitedit，andherewaslocatedoneoftheoriginalsevenapocalypticchurchesspokenofinRevelations。ThesechurchesweresymbolizedintheScripturesascandlesticks，andoncertainconditionstherewasasortofimpliedpromisethatSmyrnashouldbeendowedwitha\"crownoflife。\"
Shewasto\"befaithfuluntodeath\"——thoseweretheterms。Shehasnotkeptupherfaithstraightalong，butthepilgrimsthatwanderhitherconsiderthatshehascomenearenoughtoittosaveher，andsotheypointtothefactthatSmyrnato—daywearshercrownoflife，andisagreatcity，withagreatcommerceandfullofenergy，whilethecitieswhereinwerelocatedtheothersixchurches，andtowhichnocrownoflifewaspromised，havevanishedfromtheearth。SoSmyrnareallystillpossesseshercrownoflife，inabusinesspointofview。Hercareer，foreighteencenturies，hasbeenachequeredone，andshehasbeenundertheruleofprincesofmanycreeds，yettherehasbeennoseasonduringallthattime，asfarasweknow，（andduringsuchseasonsasshewasinhabitedatall，）thatshehasbeenwithoutherlittlecommunityofChristians\"faithfuluntodeath。\"HerswastheonlychurchagainstwhichnothreatswereimpliedintheRevelations，andtheonlyonewhichsurvived。
WithEphesus，fortymilesfromhere，wherewaslocatedanotherofthesevenchurches，thecasewasdifferent。The\"candlestick\"hasbeenremovedfromEphesus。Herlighthasbeenputout。Pilgrims，alwayspronetofindpropheciesintheBible，andoftenwherenoneexist，speakcheerfullyandcomplacentlyofpoor，ruinedEphesusasthevictimofprophecy。Andyetthereisnosentencethatpromises，withoutduequalification，thedestructionofthecity。Thewordsare:\"Remember，therefore，fromwhencethouartfallen，andrepent，anddothefirstworks;orelseIwillcomeuntotheequickly，andwillremovethycandlestickoutofhisplace，exceptthourepent。\"Thatisall;theotherversesaresingularlycomplimentarytoEphesus。
Thethreatisqualified。Thereisnohistorytoshowthatshedidnotrepent。
Butthecruelesthabitthemodernprophecy—savanshave，isthatoneofcoollyandarbitrarilyfittingthepropheticshirtontothewrongman。
Theydoitwithoutregardtorhymeorreason。BoththecasesIhavejustmentionedareinstancesinpoint。Those\"prophecies\"aredistinctlyleveledatthe\"churchesofEphesus，Smyrna，\"etc。，andyetthepilgrimsinvariablymakethemrefertothecitiesinstead。NocrownoflifeispromisedtothetownofSmyrnaanditscommerce，buttothehandfulofChristianswhoformedits\"church。\"Iftheywere\"faithfuluntodeath，\"theyhavetheircrownnow——butnoamountoffaithfulnessandlegalshrewdnesscombinedcouldlegitimatelydragthecityintoaparticipationinthepromisesoftheprophecy。ThestatelylanguageoftheBiblereferstoacrownoflifewhoselustrewillreflecttheday—beamsoftheendlessagesofeternity，notthebutterflyexistenceofacitybuiltbymen\'shands，whichmustpasstodustwiththebuildersandbeforgotteneveninthemerehandfulofcenturiesvouchsafedtothesolidworlditselfbetweenitscradleanditsgrave。
Thefashionofdelvingoutfulfillmentsofprophecywherethatprophecyconsistsofmere\"ifs，\"trenchesupontheabsurd。Suppose，athousandyearsfromnow，amalariousswampbuildsitselfupintheshallowharborofSmyrna，orsomethingelsekillsthetown;andsuppose，also，thatwithinthattimetheswampthathasfilledtherenownedharborofEphesusandrenderedherancientsitedeadlyanduninhabitableto—day，becomeshardandhealthyground;supposethenaturalconsequenceensues，towit:thatSmyrnabecomesamelancholyruin，andEphesusisrebuilt。Whatwouldtheprophecy—savanssay？Theywouldcoollyskipoverourageoftheworld，andsay:\"Smyrnawasnotfaithfuluntodeath，andsohercrownoflifewasdeniedher;Ephesusrepented，andlo！hercandle—stickwasnotremoved。Beholdtheseevidences！
Howwonderfulisprophecy！\"
Smyrnahasbeenutterlydestroyedsixtimes。Ifhercrownoflifehadbeenaninsurancepolicy，shewouldhavehadanopportunitytocollectonitthefirsttimeshefell。Butsheholdsitonsufferanceandbyacomplimentaryconstructionoflanguagewhichdoesnotrefertoher。Sixdifferenttimes，however，Isupposesomeinfatuatedprophecy—enthusiastblunderedalongandsaid，totheinfinitedisgustofSmyrnaandtheSmyrniotes:
\"Insooth，hereisastoundingfulfillmentofprophecy！Smyrnahathnotbeenfaithfuluntodeath，andbeholdhercrownoflifeisvanishedfromherhead。Verily，thesethingsbeastonishing！\"
Suchthingshaveabadinfluence。Theyprovokeworldlymenintousinglightconversationconcerningsacredsubjects。Thick—headedcommentatorsupontheBible，andstupidpreachersandteachers，workmoredamagetoreligionthansensible，cool—brainedclergymencanfightawayagain，toilastheymay。Itisnotgoodjudgmenttofitacrownoflifeuponacitywhichhasbeendestroyedsixtimes。Thatotherclassofwiseacreswhotwistprophecyinsuchamannerastomakeitpromisethedestructionanddesolationofthesamecity，usejudgmentjustasbad，sincethecityisinaveryflourishingconditionnow，unhappilyforthem。Thesethingsputargumentsintothemouthofinfidelity。
AportionofthecityisprettyexclusivelyTurkish;theJewshaveaquartertothemselves;theFranksanotherquarter;so，also，withtheArmenians。
TheArmenians，ofcourse，areChristians。Theirhousesarelarge，clean，airy，handsomelypavedwithblackandwhitesquaresofmarble，andinthecentreofmanyofthemisasquarecourt，whichhasinitaluxuriantflower—gardenandasparklingfountain;thedoorsofalltheroomsopenonthis。Averywidehallleadstothestreetdoor，andinthisthewomensit，themostoftheday。Inthecooloftheeveningtheydressupintheirbestraimentandshowthemselvesatthedoor。Theyareallcomelyofcountenance，andexceedinglyneatandcleanly;theylookasiftheywerejustoutofaband—box。
Someoftheyoungladies——manyofthem，Imaysay——areevenverybeautiful;
theyaverageashadebetterthanAmericangirls——whichtreasonablewordsIpraymaybeforgivenme。Theyareverysociable，andwillsmilebackwhenastrangersmilesatthem，bowbackwhenhebows，andtalkbackifhespeakstothem。Nointroductionisrequired。Anhour\'schatatthedoorwithaprettygirloneneversawbefore，iseasilyobtained，andisverypleasant。Ihavetriedit。IcouldnottalkanythingbutEnglish，andthegirlknewnothingbutGreek，orArmenian，orsomesuchbarbaroustongue，butwegotalongverywell。Ifindthatincaseslikethese，thefactthatyoucannotcomprehendeachotherisn\'tmuchofadrawback。InthatRussiantownofYaltaIdancedanastonishingsortofdanceanhourlong，andoneIhadnotheardofbefore，withaveryprettygirl，andwetalkedincessantly，andlaughedexhaustingly，andneitheroneeverknewwhattheotherwasdrivingat。Butitwassplendid。Thereweretwentypeopleintheset，andthedancewasverylivelyandcomplicated。Itwascomplicatedenoughwithoutme——withmeitwasmoreso。IthrewinafigurenowandthenthatsurprisedthoseRussians。ButIhaveneverceasedtothinkofthatgirl。Ihavewrittentoher，butIcannotdirecttheepistlebecausehernameisoneofthosenine—jointedRussianaffairs，andtherearenotlettersenoughinouralphabettoholdout。IamnotrecklessenoughtotrytopronounceitwhenIamawake，butImakeastaggeratitinmydreams，andgetupwiththelockjawinthemorning。Iamfading。Idonottakemymealsnow，withanysortofregularity。Herdearnamehauntsmestillinmydreams。Itisawfulonteeth。Itnevercomesoutofmymouthbutitfetchesanoldsnagalongwithit。Andthenthelockjawclosesdownandnipsoffacoupleofthelastsyllables——buttheytastegood。
ComingthroughtheDardanelles，wesawcameltrainsonshorewiththeglasses，butwewereneverclosetoonetillwegottoSmyrna。Thesecamelsareverymuchlargerthanthescrawnyspecimensoneseesinthemenagerie。
Theystridealongthesestreets，insinglefile，adozeninatrain，withheavyloadsontheirbacks，andafancy—lookingnegroinTurkishcostume，oranArab，precedingthemonalittledonkeyandcompletelyovershadowedandrenderedinsignificantbythehugebeasts。ToseeacameltrainladenwiththespicesofArabiaandtherarefabricsofPersiacomemarchingthroughthenarrowalleysofthebazaar，amongporterswiththeirburdens，money—changers，lamp—merchants，Al—nascharsintheglasswarebusiness，portlycross—leggedTurkssmokingthefamousnarghili;andthecrowdsdriftingtoandfrointhefancifulcostumesoftheEast，isagenuinerevelationoftheOrient。Thepicturelacksnothing。Itcastsyoubackatonceintoyourforgottenboyhood，andagainyoudreamoverthewondersoftheArabianNights;againyourcompanionsareprinces，yourlordistheCaliphHarounAlRaschid，andyourservantsareterrificgiantsandgeniithatcomewithsmokeandlightningandthunder，andgoasastormgoeswhentheydepart！
Chapter39
Weinquired，andlearnedthatthelionsofSmyrnaconsistedoftheruinsoftheancientcitadel，whosebrokenandprodigiousbattlementsfrownuponthecityfromaloftyhilljustintheedgeofthetown——theMountPagusofScripture，theycallit;thesiteofthatoneoftheSevenApocalypticChurchesofAsiawhichwaslocatedhereinthefirstcenturyoftheChristianera;andthegraveandtheplaceofmartyrdomofthevenerablePolycarp，whosufferedinSmyrnaforhisreligionsomeeighteenhundredyearsago。
Wetooklittledonkeysandstarted。WesawPolycarp\'stomb，andthenhurriedon。
The\"SevenChurches\"——thustheyabbreviateit——camenextonthelist。
Werodethere——aboutamileandahalfintheswelteringsun——andvisitedalittleGreekchurchwhichtheysaidwasbuiltupontheancientsite;
andwepaidasmallfee，andtheholyattendantgaveeachofusalittlewaxcandleasaremembranceroftheplace，andIputmineinmyhatandthesunmelteditandthegreaseallrandownthebackofmyneck;andsonowIhavenotanythingleftbutthewick，anditisasorryandawilted—lookingwickatthat。
Severalofusarguedaswellaswecouldthatthe\"church\"mentionedintheBiblemeantapartyofChristians，andnotabuilding;thattheBiblespokeofthemasbeingverypoor——sopoor，Ithought，andsosubjecttopersecution（asperPolycarp\'smartyrdom）thatinthefirstplacetheyprobablycouldnothaveaffordedachurchedifice，andinthesecondwouldnothavedaredtobuilditintheopenlightofdayiftheycould;andfinally，thatiftheyhadhadtheprivilegeofbuildingit，commonjudgmentwouldhavesuggestedthattheybuilditsomewherenearthetown。Buttheeldersoftheship\'sfamilyruledusdownandscoutedourevidences。However，retributioncametothemafterward。Theyfoundthattheyhadbeenledastrayandhadgonetothewrongplace;theydiscoveredthattheacceptedsiteisinthecity。
Ridingthroughthetown，wecouldseemarksofthesixSmyrnasthathaveexistedhereandbeenburnedupbyfireorknockeddownbyearthquakes。
Thehillsandtherocksarerentasunderinplaces，excavationsexposegreatblocksofbuilding—stonethathavelainburiedforages，andallthemeanhousesandwallsofmodernSmyrnaalongthewayarespottedwhitewithbrokenpillars，capitalsandfragmentsofsculpturedmarblethatonceadornedthelordlypalacesthatwerethegloryofthecityintheoldentime。
Theascentofthehillofthecitadelisverysteep，andweproceededratherslowly。Butthereweremattersofinterestaboutus。Inoneplace，fivehundredfeetabovethesea，theperpendicularbankontheuppersideoftheroadwastenorfifteenfeethigh，andthecutexposedthreeveinsofoystershells，justaswehaveseenquartzveinsexposedinthecuttingofaroadinNevadaorMontana。Theveinswereabouteighteeninchesthickandtwoorthreefeetapart，andtheyslantedalongdownwardforadistanceofthirtyfeetormore，andthendisappearedwherethecutjoinedtheroad。
Heavenonlyknowshowfaramanmighttracethemby\"stripping。\"Theywereclean，niceoystershells，large，andjustlikeanyotheroystershells。
Theywerethicklymassedtogether，andnonewerescatteredaboveorbelowtheveins。Eachonewasawell—definedleadbyitself，andwithoutaspur。