Buthemakesallhiscalculationswiththenicestprecision，andgoesdartinginandoutamongaBroadwayconfusionofbusycraftwiththeeasyconfidenceoftheeducatedhackman。Henevermakesamistake。
Sometimeswegoflyingdownthegreatcanalsatsuchagaitthatwecangetonlythemerestglimpsesintofrontdoors，andagain，inobscurealleysinthesuburbs，weputonasolemnitysuitedtothesilence，themildew，thestagnantwaters，theclingingweeds，thedesertedhousesandthegenerallifelessnessoftheplace，andmovetothespiritofgravemeditation。
Thegondolierisapicturesquerascalforallhewearsnosatinharness，noplumedbonnet，nosilkentights。Hisattitudeisstately;heislitheandsupple;allhismovementsarefullofgrace。Whenhislongcanoe，andhisfinefigure，toweringfromitshighperchonthestern，arecutagainsttheeveningsky，theymakeapicturethatisverynovelandstrikingtoaforeigneye。
Wesitinthecushionedcarriage—bodyofacabin，withthecurtainsdrawn，andsmoke，orread，orlookoutuponthepassingboats，thehouses，thebridges，thepeople，andenjoyourselvesmuchmorethanwecouldinabuggyjoltingoverourcobble—stonepavementsathome。Thisisthegentlest，pleasantestlocomotionwehaveeverknown。
Butitseemsqueer——eversoqueer——toseeaboatdoingdutyasaprivatecarriage。Weseebusinessmencometothefrontdoor，stepintoagondola，insteadofastreetcar，andgooffdowntowntothecounting—room。
Weseevisitingyoungladiesstandonthestoop，andlaugh，andkissgood—bye，andflirttheirfansandsay\"Comesoon——nowdo——you\'vebeenjustasmeanaseveryoucanbe——mother\'sdyingtoseeyou——andwe\'vemovedintothenewhouse，Osuchaloveofaplace！——soconvenienttothepostofficeandthechurch，andtheYoungMen\'sChristianAssociation;
andwedohavesuchfishing，andsuchcarryingon，andsuchswimming—matchesinthebackyard——Oh，youmustcome——nodistanceatall，andifyougodownthroughbySt。Mark\'sandtheBridgeofSighs，andcutthroughthealleyandcomeupbythechurchofSantaMariadeiFrari，andintotheGrandCanal，thereisn\'tabitofcurrent——nowdocome，SallyMaria——by—bye！\"andthenthelittlehumbugtripsdownthesteps，jumpsintothegondola，says，underherbreath，\"Disagreeableoldthing，Ihopeshewon\'t！\"goesskimmingaway，roundthecorner;andtheothergirlslamsthestreetdoorandsays，\"Well，thatinfliction\'sover，anyway，——butIsupposeI\'vegottogoandseeher——tiresomestuck—upthing！\"Humannatureappearstobejustthesame，allovertheworld。Weseethediffidentyoungman，mildofmoustache，affluentofhair，indigentofbrain，elegantofcostume，driveuptoherfather\'smansion，tellhishackmantobailoutandwait，startfearfullyupthestepsandmeet\"theoldgentleman\"rightonthethreshold！——hearhimaskwhatstreetthenewBritishBankisin——asifthatwerewhathecamefor——andthenbounceintohisboatandskurryawaywithhiscowardheartinhisboots！——seehimcomesneakingaroundthecorneragain，directly，withacrackofthecurtainopentowardtheoldgentleman\'sdisappearinggondola，andoutscampershisSusanwithaflockoflittleItalianendearmentsflutteringfromherlips，andgoestodrivewithhiminthewateryavenuesdowntowardtheRialto。
Weseetheladiesgooutshopping，inthemostnaturalway，andflitfromstreettostreetandfromstoretostore，justinthegoodoldfashion，exceptthattheyleavethegondola，insteadofaprivatecarriage，waitingatthecurbstoneacoupleofhoursforthem，——waitingwhiletheymaketheniceyoungclerkspulldowntonsandtonsofsilksandvelvetsandmoireantiquesandthosethings;andthentheybuyapaperofpinsandgopaddlingawaytoconfertherestoftheirdisastrouspatronageonsomeotherfirm。
Andtheyalwayshavetheirpurchasessenthomejustinthegoodoldway。
Humannatureisverymuchthesameallovertheworld;anditissolikemydearnativehometoseeaVenetianladygointoastoreandbuytencents\'worthofblueribbonandhaveitsenthomeinascow。
Ah，itistheselittletouchesofnaturethatmoveonetotearsinthesefar—offforeignlands。
Weseelittlegirlsandboysgooutingondolaswiththeirnurses，foranairing。Weseestaidfamilies，withprayer—bookandbeads，enterthegondoladressedintheirSundaybest，andfloatawaytochurch。Andatmidnightweseethetheatrebreakupanddischargeitsswarmofhilariousyouthandbeauty;wehearthecriesofthehackman—gondoliers，andbeholdthestrugglingcrowdjumpaboard，andtheblackmultitudeofboatsgoskimmingdownthemoonlitavenues;weseethemseparatehereandthere，anddisappearupdivergentstreets;wehearthefaintsoundsoflaughterandofshoutedfarewellsfloatingupoutofthedistance;andthen，thestrangepageantbeinggone，wehavelonelystretchesofglitteringwater——ofstatelybuildings——ofblottingshadows——ofweirdstonefacescreepingintothemoonlight——ofdesertedbridges——ofmotionlessboatsatanchor。Andoverallbroodsthatmysteriousstillness，thatstealthyquiet，thatbefitssowellthisolddreamingVenice。
Wehavebeenprettymucheverywhereinourgondola。Wehaveboughtbeadsandphotographsinthestores，andwaxmatchesintheGreatSquareofSt。Mark。Thelastremarksuggestsadigression。Everybodygoestothisvastsquareintheevening。Themilitarybandsplayinthecentreofitandcountlesscouplesofladiesandgentlemenpromenadeupanddownoneitherside，andplatoonsofthemareconstantlydriftingawaytowardtheoldCathedral，andbythevenerablecolumnwiththeWingedLionofSt。Markonitstop，andouttowheretheboatsliemoored;andotherplatoonsareasconstantlyarrivingfromthegondolasandjoiningthegreatthrong。
Betweenthepromenadersandtheside—walksareseatedhundredsandhundredsofpeopleatsmalltables，smokingandtakinggranita，（afirstcousintoice—cream;）ontheside—walksaremoreemployingthemselvesinthesameway。Theshopsinthefirstfloorofthetallrowsofbuildingsthatwallinthreesidesofthesquarearebrilliantlylighted，theairisfilledwithmusicandmerryvoices，andaltogetherthesceneisasbrightandspiritedandfullofcheerfulnessasanymancoulddesire。Weenjoyitthoroughly。Verymanyoftheyoungwomenareexceedinglyprettyanddresswithraregoodtaste。Wearegraduallyandlaboriouslylearningtheill—mannersofstaringthemunflinchinglyintheface——notbecausesuchconductisagreeabletous，butbecauseitisthecustomofthecountryandtheysaythegirlslikeit。Wewishtolearnallthecurious，outlandishwaysofallthedifferentcountries，sothatwecan\"showoff\"andastonishpeoplewhenwegethome。Wewishtoexcitetheenvyofouruntraveledfriendswithourstrangeforeignfashionswhichwecan\'tshakeoff。Allourpassengersarepayingstrictattentiontothisthing，withtheendinviewwhichI
havementioned。Thegentlereaderwillnever，neverknowwhataconsummateasshecanbecome，untilhegoesabroad。Ispeaknow，ofcourse，inthesuppositionthatthegentlereaderhasnotbeenabroad，andthereforeisnotalreadyaconsummateass。Ifthecasebeotherwise，Ibeghispardonandextendtohimthecordialhandoffellowshipandcallhimbrother。
IshallalwaysdelighttomeetanassaftermyownheartwhenIshallhavefinishedmytravels。
OnthissubjectletmeremarkthatthereareAmericansabroadinItalywhohaveactuallyforgottentheirmothertongueinthreemonths——forgotitinFrance。TheycannotevenwritetheiraddressinEnglishinahotelregister。Iappendtheseevidences，whichIcopiedverbatimfromtheregisterofahotelinacertainItaliancity:\"JohnP。Whitcomb，EtatsUnis。
\"Wm。L。Ainsworth，travailleur（hemeanttraveler，Isuppose，）EtatsUnis。
\"GeorgeP。Mortonetfils，d\'Amerique。
\"LloydB。Williams，ettroisamis，villedeBoston，Amerique。
\"J。EllsworthBaker，toutdesuitedeFrance，placedenaissanceAmerique，destinationlaGrandBretagne。\"Ilovethissortofpeople。Aladypassengerofourstellsofafellow—citizenofherswhospenteightweeksinParisandthenreturnedhomeandaddressedhisdearestoldbosomfriendHerbertasMr。\"Er—bare！\"Heapologized，though，andsaid，\"\'Ponmysoulitisaggravating，butIcahn\'thelpit——IhavegotsousedtospeakingnothingbutFrench，mydearErbare——dammethereitgoesagain！——gotsousedtoFrenchpronunciationthatIcahn\'tgetridofit——itispositivelyannoying，Iassureyou。\"Thisentertainingidiot，whosenamewasGordon，allowedhimselftobehailedthreetimesinthestreetbeforehepaidanyattention，andthenbeggedathousandpardonsandsaidhehadgrownsoaccustomedtohearinghimselfaddressedasM\'sieuGor—r—dong，\"witharolltother，thathehadforgottenthelegitimatesoundofhisname！Heworearoseinhisbutton—hole;hegavetheFrenchsalutation——twoflipsofthehandinfrontoftheface;hecalledParisPairreeinordinaryEnglishconversation;hecarriedenvelopesbearingforeignpostmarksprotrudingfromhisbreast—pocket;hecultivatedamoustacheandimperial，anddidwhatelsehecouldtosuggesttothebeholderhispetfancythatheresembledLouisNapoleon——andinaspiritofthankfulnesswhichisentirelyunaccountable，consideringtheslimfoundationtherewasforit，hepraisedhisMakerthathewasashewas，andwentonenjoyinghislittlelifejustthesameasifhereallyhadbeendeliberatelydesignedanderectedbythegreatArchitectoftheUniverse。
ThinkofourWhitcombs，andourAinsworthsandourWilliamseswritingthemselvesdownindilapidatedFrenchinforeignhotelregisters！WelaughatEnglishmen，whenweareathome，forstickingsosturdilytotheirnationalwaysandcustoms，butwelookbackuponitfromabroadveryforgivingly。
ItisnotpleasanttoseeanAmericanthrustinghisnationalityforwardobtrusivelyinaforeignland，butOh，itispitiabletoseehimmakingofhimselfathingthatisneithermalenorfemale，neitherfish，flesh，norfowl——apoor，miserable，hermaphroditeFrenchman！
Amongalonglistofchurches，artgalleries，andsuchthings，visitedbyusinVenice，Ishallmentiononlyone——thechurchofSantaMariadeiFrari。Itisaboutfivehundredyearsold，Ibelieve，andstandsontwelvehundredthousandpiles。InitliethebodyofCanovaandtheheartofTitian，undermagnificentmonuments。Titiandiedattheageofalmostonehundredyears。Aplaguewhichsweptawayfiftythousandliveswasragingatthetime，andthereisnotableevidenceofthereverenceinwhichthegreatpainterwasheld，inthefactthattohimalonethestatepermittedapublicfuneralinallthatseasonofterroranddeath。
Inthischurch，also，isamonumenttothedogeFoscari，whosenameaonceresidentofVenice，LordByron，hasmadepermanentlyfamous。
ThemonumenttothedogeGiovanniPesaro，inthischurch，isacuriosityinthewayofmortuaryadornment。Itiseightyfeethighandisfrontedlikesomefantasticpagantemple。AgainstitstandfourcolossalNubians，asblackasnight，dressedinwhitemarblegarments。Theblacklegsarebare，andthroughrentsinsleevesandbreeches，theskin，ofshinyblackmarble，shows。Theartistwasasingeniousashisfuneraldesignswereabsurd。Therearetwobronzeskeletonsbearingscrolls，andtwogreatdragonsupholdthesarcophagus。Onhigh，amidallthisgrotesqueness，sitsthedeparteddoge。
IntheconventualbuildingsattachedtothischurcharethestatearchivesofVenice。Wedidnotseethem，buttheyaresaidtonumbermillionsofdocuments。\"Theyaretherecordsofcenturiesofthemostwatchful，observantandsuspiciousgovernmentthateverexisted——inwhicheverythingwaswrittendownandnothingspokenout。\"Theyfillnearlythreehundredrooms。Amongthemaremanuscriptsfromthearchivesofnearlytwothousandfamilies，monasteriesandconvents。ThesecrethistoryofVeniceforathousandyearsishere——itsplots，itshiddentrials，itsassassinations，itscommissionsofhirelingspiesandmaskedbravoes——food，readytohand，foraworldofdarkandmysteriousromances。
Yes，IthinkwehaveseenallofVenice。Wehaveseen，intheseoldchurches，aprofusionofcostlyandelaboratesepulchreornamentationsuchasweneverdreamptofbefore。Wehavestoodinthedimreligiouslightofthesehoarysanctuaries，inthemidstoflongranksofdustymonumentsandeffigiesofthegreatdeadofVenice，untilweseemeddriftingback，back，back，intothesolemnpast，andlookinguponthescenesandminglingwiththepeoplesofaremoteantiquity。Wehavebeeninahalf—wakingsortofdreamallthetime。Idonotknowhowelsetodescribethefeeling。
Apartofourbeinghasremainedstillinthenineteenthcentury，whileanotherpartofithasseemedinsomeunaccountablewaywalkingamongthephantomsofthetenth。
Wehaveseenfamouspicturesuntiloureyesarewearywithlookingatthemandrefusetofindinterestinthemanylonger。Andwhatwonder，whentherearetwelvehundredpicturesbyPalmatheYoungerinVeniceandfifteenhundredbyTintoretto？AndbeholdthereareTitiansandtheworksofotherartistsinproportion。WehaveseenTitian\'scelebratedCainandAbel，hisDavidandGoliath，hisAbraham\'sSacrifice。WehaveseenTintoretto\'smonsterpicture，whichisseventy—fourfeetlongandIdonotknowhowmanyfeethigh，andthoughtitaverycommodiouspicture。Wehaveseenpicturesofmartyrsenough，andsaintsenough，toregeneratetheworld。
Ioughtnottoconfessit，butstill，sinceonehasnoopportunityinAmericatoacquireacriticaljudgmentinart，andsinceIcouldnothopetobecomeeducatedinitinEuropeinafewshortweeks，Imaythereforeaswellacknowledgewithsuchapologiesasmaybedue，thattomeitseemedthatwhenIhadseenoneofthesemartyrsIhadseenthemall。Theyallhaveamarkedfamilyresemblancetoeachother，theydressalike，incoarsemonkishrobesandsandals，theyareallbaldheaded，theyallstandinaboutthesameattitude，andwithoutexceptiontheyaregazingheavenwardwithcountenanceswhichtheAinsworths，theMortonsandtheWilliamses，etfils，informmearefullof\"expression。\"Tomethereisnothingtangibleabouttheseimaginaryportraits，nothingthatIcangraspandtakealivinginterestin。IfgreatTitianhadonlybeengiftedwithprophecy，andhadskippedamartyr，andgoneovertoEnglandandpaintedaportraitofShakspeare，evenasayouth，whichwecouldallhaveconfidenceinnow，theworlddowntothelatestgenerationswouldhaveforgivenhimthelostmartyrintherescuedseer。IthinkposteritycouldhavesparedonemoremartyrforthesakeofagreathistoricalpictureofTitian\'stimeandpaintedbyhisbrush——suchasColumbusreturninginchainsfromthediscoveryofaworld，forinstance。TheoldmastersdidpaintsomeVenetianhistoricalpictures，andthesewedidnottireoflookingat，notwithstandingrepresentationsoftheformalintroductionofdefunctdogestotheVirginMaryinregionsbeyondthecloudsclashedratherharshlywiththeproprieties，itseemedtous。
Buthumbleasweare，andunpretending，inthematterofart，ourresearchesamongthepaintedmonksandmartyrshavenotbeenwhollyinvain。Wehavestrivenhardtolearn。Wehavehadsomesuccess。Wehavemasteredsomethings，possiblyoftriflingimportintheeyesofthelearned，buttoustheygivepleasure，andwetakeasmuchprideinourlittleacquirementsasdootherswhohavelearnedfarmore，andwelovetodisplaythemfullaswell。Whenweseeamonkgoingaboutwithalionandlookingtranquillyuptoheaven，weknowthatthatisSt。Mark。Whenweseeamonkwithabookandapen，lookingtranquillyuptoheaven，tryingtothinkofaword，weknowthatthatisSt。Matthew。Whenweseeamonksittingonarock，lookingtranquillyuptoheaven，withahumanskullbesidehim，andwithoutotherbaggage，weknowthatthatisSt。Jerome。Becauseweknowthathealwayswentflyinglightinthematterofbaggage。Whenweseeapartylookingtranquillyuptoheaven，unconsciousthathisbodyisshotthroughandthroughwitharrows，weknowthatthatisSt。Sebastian。Whenweseeothermonkslookingtranquillyuptoheaven，buthavingnotrade—mark，wealwaysaskwhothosepartiesare。Wedothisbecausewehumblywishtolearn。WehaveseenthirteenthousandSt。Jeromes，andtwenty—twothousandSt。Marks，andsixteenthousandSt。Matthews，andsixtythousandSt。Sebastians，andfourmillionsofassortedmonks，undesignated，andwefeelencouragedtobelievethatwhenwehaveseensomemoreofthesevariouspictures，andhadalargerexperience，weshallbegintotakeanabsorbinginterestinthemlikeourcultivatedcountrymenfromAmerique。
Nowitdoesgivemerealpaintospeakinthisalmostunappreciativewayoftheoldmastersandtheirmartyrs，becausegoodfriendsofmineintheship——friendswhodothoroughlyandconscientiouslyappreciatethemandareineverywaycompetenttodiscriminatebetweengoodpicturesandinferiorones——haveurgedmeformyownsakenottomakepublicthefactthatIlackthisappreciationandthiscriticaldiscriminationmyself。
IbelievethatwhatIhavewrittenandmaystillwriteaboutpictureswillgivethempain，andIamhonestlysorryforit。IevenpromisedthatI
wouldhidemyuncouthsentimentsinmyownbreast。Butalas！Inevercouldkeepapromise。Idonotblamemyselfforthisweakness，becausethefaultmustlieinmyphysicalorganization。Itislikelythatsuchaveryliberalamountofspacewasgiventotheorganwhichenablesmetomakepromises，thattheorganwhichshouldenablemetokeepthemwascrowdedout。ButIgrievenot。Ilikenohalf—waythings。Ihadratherhaveonefacultynoblydevelopedthantwofacultiesofmereordinarycapacity。I
certainlymeanttokeepthatpromise，butIfindIcannotdoit。ItisimpossibletotravelthroughItalywithoutspeakingofpictures，andcanIseethemthroughothers\'eyes？
IfIdidnotsodelightinthegrandpicturesthatarespreadbeforemeeverydayofmylifebythatmonarchofalltheoldmasters，Nature，Ishouldcometobelieve，sometimes，thatIhadinmenoappreciationofthebeautiful，whatsoever。
ItseemstomethatwheneverIglorytothinkthatforonceIhavediscoveredanancientpaintingthatisbeautifulandworthyofallpraise，thepleasureitgivesmeisaninfallibleproofthatitisnotabeautifulpictureandnotinanywiseworthyofcommendation。ThisverythinghasoccurredmoretimesthanIcanmention，inVenice。Ineverysingleinstancetheguidehascrushedoutmyswellingenthusiasmwiththeremark:
\"Itisnothing——itisoftheRenaissance。\"
IdidnotknowwhatinthemischieftheRenaissancewas，andsoalwaysIhadtosimplysay，\"Ah！soitis——Ihadnotobserveditbefore。\"
Icouldnotbeartobeignorantbeforeacultivatednegro，theoffspringofaSouthCarolinaslave。Butitoccurredtoooftenforevenmyself—complacency，didthatexasperating\"Itisnothing——itisoftheRenaissance。\"Isaidatlast:
\"WhoisthisRenaissance？Wheredidhecomefrom？WhogavehimpermissiontocramtheRepublicwithhisexecrabledaubs？\"
Welearned，then，thatRenaissancewasnotaman;thatrenaissancewasatermusedtosignifywhatwasatbestbutanimperfectrejuvenationofart。TheguidesaidthatafterTitian\'stimeandthetimeoftheothergreatnameswehadgrownsofamiliarwith，highartdeclined;thenitpartiallyroseagain——aninferiorsortofpainterssprangup，andtheseshabbypicturesweretheworkoftheirhands。ThenIsaid，inmyheat，thatI\"wishedtogoodnesshigharthaddeclinedfivehundredyearssooner。\"TheRenaissancepicturessuitmeverywell，thoughsoothtosayitsschoolweretoomuchgiventopaintingrealmenanddidnotindulgeenoughinmartyrs。
TheguideIhavespokenofistheonlyonewehavehadyetwhoknewanything。HewasborninSouthCarolina，ofslaveparents。TheycametoVenicewhilehewasaninfant。Hehasgrownuphere。Heiswelleducated。
Hereads，writes，andspeaksEnglish，Italian，Spanish，andFrench，withperfectfacility;isaworshipperofartandthoroughlyconversantwithit;knowsthehistoryofVenicebyheartandnevertiresoftalkingofherillustriouscareer。Hedressesbetterthananyofus，Ithink，andisdaintilypolite。Negroesaredeemedasgoodaswhitepeople，inVenice，andsothismanfeelsnodesiretogobacktohisnativeland。Hisjudgmentiscorrect。
Ihavehadanothershave。Iwaswritinginourfrontroomthisafternoonandtryinghardtokeepmyattentiononmyworkandrefrainfromlookingoutuponthecanal。IwasresistingthesoftinfluencesoftheclimateaswellasIcould，andendeavoringtoovercomethedesiretobeindolentandhappy。Theboyssentforabarber。TheyaskedmeifIwouldbeshaved。
IremindedthemofmytorturesinGenoa，Milan，Como;ofmydeclarationthatIwouldsuffernomoreonItaliansoil。Isaid\"Notanyforme，ifyouplease。\"
Iwroteon。Thebarberbeganonthedoctor。Iheardhimsay:
\"Dan，thisistheeasiestshaveIhavehadsincewelefttheship。\"
Hesaidagain，presently:
\"WhyDan，amancouldgotosleepwiththismanshavinghim。\"
Dantookthechair。Thenhesaid:
\"WhythisisTitian。Thisisoneoftheoldmasters。\"
Iwroteon。DirectlyDansaid:
\"Doctor，itisperfectluxury。Theship\'sbarberisn\'tanythingtohim。\"
Myroughbeardweedistressingmebeyondmeasure。Thebarberwasrollinguphisapparatus。Thetemptationwastoostrong。Isaid:
\"Holdon，please。Shavemealso。\"
Isatdowninthechairandclosedmyeyes。Thebarbersoapedmyface，andthentookhisrazorandgavemearakethatwellnighthrewmeintoconvulsions。Ijumpedoutofthechair:Danandthedoctorwerebothwipingbloodofftheirfacesandlaughing。
Isaiditwasamean，disgracefulfraud。
Theysaidthatthemiseryofthisshavehadgonesofarbeyondanythingtheyhadeverexperiencedbefore，thattheycouldnotbeartheideaoflosingsuchachanceofhearingacordialopinionfrommeonthesubject。
Itwasshameful。Buttherewasnohelpforit。Theskinningwasbegunandhadtobefinished。Thetearsflowedwitheveryrake，andsodidtheferventexecrations。Thebarbergrewconfused，andbroughtbloodeverytime。Ithinktheboysenjoyeditbetterthananythingtheyhaveseenorheardsincetheylefthome。
WehaveseentheCampanile，andByron\'shouseandBalbi\'sthegeographer，andthepalacesofalltheancientdukesanddogesofVenice，andwehaveseentheireffeminatedescendantsairingtheirnobilityinfashionableFrenchattireintheGrandSquareofSt。Mark，andeatingicesanddrinkingcheapwines，insteadofwearinggallantcoatsofmailanddestroyingfleetsandarmiesastheirgreatancestorsdidinthedaysofVenetianglory。
Wehaveseennobravoeswithpoisonedstilettos，nomasks，nowildcarnival;
butwehaveseentheancientprideofVenice，thegrimBronzeHorsesthatfigureinathousandlegends。Venicemaywellcherishthem，fortheyaretheonlyhorsessheeverhad。Itissaidtherearehundredsofpeopleinthiscuriouscitywhoneverhaveseenalivinghorseintheirlives。Itisentirelytrue，nodoubt。
Andso，havingsatisfiedourselves，wedepartto—morrow，andleavethevenerableQueenoftheRepublicstosummonhervanishedships，andmarshalhershadowyarmies，andknowagainindreamstheprideofheroldrenown。
Chapter24
SomeoftheQuakerCity\'spassengershadarrivedinVenicefromSwitzerlandandotherlandsbeforeweleftthere，andotherswereexpectedeveryday。
Weheardofnocasualtiesamongthem，andnosickness。
Wewerealittlefatiguedwithsightseeing，andsowerattledthroughagooddealofcountrybyrailwithoutcaringtostop。Itookfewnotes。
IfindnomentionofBolognainmymemorandumbook，exceptthatwearrivedthereingoodseason，butsawnoneofthesausagesforwhichtheplaceissojustlycelebrated。
Pistoiaawokebutapassinginterest。
Florencepleasedusforawhile。IthinkweappreciatedthegreatfigureofDavidinthegrandsquare，andthesculpturedgrouptheycalltheRapeoftheSabines。WewanderedthroughtheendlesscollectionsofpaintingsandstatuesofthePittiandUfizzigalleries，ofcourse。Imakethatstatementinself—defense;thereletitstop。IcouldnotrestundertheimputationthatIvisitedFlorenceanddidnottraverseitswearymilesofpicturegalleries。WetriedindolentlytorecollectsomethingabouttheGuelphsandGhibelinesandtheotherhistoricalcut—throatswhosequarrelsandassassinationsmakeupsolargeashareofFlorentinehistory，butthesubjectwasnotattractive。Wehadbeenrobbedofallthefinemountainsceneryonourlittlejourneybyasystemofrailroadingthathadthreemilesoftunneltoahundredyardsofdaylight，andwewerenotinclinedtobesociablewithFlorence。Wehadseenthespot，outsidethecitysomewhere，wherethesepeoplehadallowedthebonesofGalileotorestinunconsecratedgroundforanagebecausehisgreatdiscoverythattheworldturnedaroundwasregardedasadamningheresybythechurch;andweknowthatlongaftertheworldhadacceptedhistheoryandraisedhisnamehighinthelistofitsgreatmen，theyhadstilllethimrotthere。ThatwehadlivedtoseehisdustinhonoredsepultureinthechurchofSantaCroceweowedtoasocietyofliterati，andnottoFlorenceorherrulers。WesawDanté\'stombinthatchurch，also，butweweregladtoknowthathisbodywasnotinit;thattheungratefulcitythathadexiledhimandpersecutedhimwouldgivemuchtohaveitthere，butneednothopetoeversecurethathighhonortoherself。MedicisaregoodenoughforFlorence。LetherplantMedicisandbuildgrandmonumentsoverthemtotestifyhowgratefullyshewaswonttolickthehandthatscourgedher。
MagnanimousFlorence！Herjewelrymartsarefilledwithartistsinmosaic。
Florentinemosaicsarethechoicestinalltheworld。Florencelovestohavethatsaid。Florenceisproudofit。Florencewouldfosterthisspecialtyofhers。Sheisgratefultotheartiststhatbringtoherthishighcreditandfillhercofferswithforeignmoney，andsosheencouragesthemwithpensions。Withpensions！Thinkofthelavishnessofit。Sheknowsthatpeoplewhopiecetogetherthebeautifultriflesdieearly，becausethelaborissoconfining，andsoexhaustingtohandandbrain，andsoshehasdecreedthatallthesepeoplewhoreachtheageofsixtyshallhaveapensionafterthat！Ihavenotheardthatanyofthemhavecalledfortheirdividendsyet。Onemandidfightalongtillhewassixty，andstartedafterhispension，butitappearedthattherehadbeenamistakeofayearinhisfamilyrecord，andsohegaveitupanddied。
Theseartistswilltakeparticlesofstoneorglassnolargerthanamustardseed，andpiecethemtogetheronasleevebuttonorashirtstud，sosmoothlyandwithsuchniceadjustmentofthedelicateshadesofcolorthepiecesbear，astoformapigmyrosewithstem，thorn，leaves，petalscomplete，andallassoftlyandastruthfullytintedasthoughNaturehadbuildeditherself。Theywillcounterfeitafly，orahigh—tonedbug，ortheruinedColiseum，withinthecrampedcircleofabreastpin，anddoitsodeftlyandsoneatlythatanymanmightthinkamasterpaintedit。
IsawalittletableinthegreatmosaicschoolinFlorence——alittletrifleofacentretable——whosetopwasmadeofsomesortofpreciouspolishedstone，andinthestonewasinlaidthefigureofaflute，withbell—mouthandamazycomplicationofkeys。Nopaintingintheworldcouldhavebeensofterorricher;noshadingoutofonetintintoanothercouldhavebeenmoreperfect;noworkofartofanykindcouldhavebeenmorefaultlessthanthisflute，andyettocountthemultitudeoflittlefragmentsofstoneofwhichtheysworeitwasformedwouldbankruptanyman\'sarithmetic！
Idonotthinkonecouldhaveseenwheretwoparticlesjoinedeachotherwitheyesofordinaryshrewdness。Certainlywecoulddetectnosuchblemish。Thistable—topcostthelaborofonemanfortenlongyears，sotheysaid，anditwasforsaleforthirty—fivethousanddollars。
WewenttotheChurchofSantaCroce，fromtimetotime，inFlorence，toweepoverthetombsofMichaelAngelo，RaphaelandMachiavelli，（Isupposetheyareburiedthere，butitmaybethattheyresideelsewhereandrenttheirtombstootherparties——suchbeingthefashioninItaly，）andbetweentimesweusedtogoandstandonthebridgesandadmiretheArno。ItispopulartoadmiretheArno。Itisagreathistoricalcreekwithfourfeetinthechannelandsomescowsfloatingaround。Itwouldbeaveryplausibleriveriftheywouldpumpsomewaterintoit。Theyallcallitariver，andtheyhonestlythinkitisariver，dothesedarkandbloodyFlorentines。Theyevenhelpoutthedelusionbybuildingbridgesoverit。
Idonotseewhytheyaretoogoodtowade。
Howthefatiguesandannoyancesoftravelfillonewithbitterprejudicessometimes！ImightenterFlorenceunderhappierauspicesamonthhenceandfinditallbeautiful，allattractive。ButIdonotcaretothinkofitnow，atall，norofitsroomyshopsfilledtotheceilingwithsnowymarbleandalabastercopiesofallthecelebratedsculpturesinEurope——copiessoenchantingtotheeyethatIwonderhowtheycanreallybeshapedlikethedingypetrifiednightmarestheyaretheportraitsof。IgotlostinFlorenceatnineo\'clock，onenight，andstaidlostinthatlabyrinthofnarrowstreetsandlongrowsofvastbuildingsthatlookallalike，untiltowardthreeo\'clockinthemorning。Itwasapleasantnightandatfirsttherewereagoodmanypeopleabroad，andtherewerecheerfullightsabout。
Later，Igrewaccustomedtoprowlingaboutmysteriousdriftsandtunnelsandastonishingandinterestingmyselfwithcomingaroundcornersexpectingtofindthehotelstaringmeintheface，andnotfindingitdoinganythingofthekind。Laterstill，Ifelttired。Isoonfeltremarkablytired。
Buttherewasnooneabroad，now——notevenapoliceman。IwalkedtillI
wasoutofallpatience，andveryhotandthirsty。Atlast，somewhereafteroneo\'clock，Icameunexpectedlytooneofthecitygates。IknewthenthatIwasveryfarfromthehotel。ThesoldiersthoughtIwantedtoleavethecity，andtheysprangupandbarredthewaywiththeirmuskets。Isaid:
\"Hoteld\'Europe！\"
ItwasalltheItalianIknew，andIwasnotcertainwhetherthatwasItalianorFrench。Thesoldierslookedstupidlyateachotherandatme，andshooktheirheadsandtookmeintocustody。IsaidIwantedtogohome。