第6章
加入书架 A- A+
点击下载App,搜索"The Innocents Abroad",免费读到尾

  ByLyonsandtheSaône(wherewesawtheladyofLyonsandthoughtlittleofhercomeliness),byVillaFranca,Tonnere,venerableSens,Melun,Fontainebleau,andscoresofotherbeautifulcities,weswept,alwaysnotingtheabsenceofhogwallows,brokenfences,cowlots,unpaintedhouses,andmud,andalwaysnoting,aswell,thepresenceofcleanliness,grace,tasteinadorningandbeautifying,eventothedispositionofatreeortheturningofahedge,themarvelofroadsinperfectrepair,voidofrutsandguiltlessofevenaninequalityofsurface——webowledalong,hourafterhour,thatbrilliantsummerday,andasnightfallapproachedweenteredawildernessofodorousflowersandshrubbery,spedthroughit,andthen,excited,delighted,andhalfpersuadedthatwewereonlythesportofabeautifuldream,lo,westoodinmagnificentParis!

  Whatexcellentordertheykeptaboutthatvastdepot!Therewasnofranticcrowdingandjostling,noshoutingandswearing,andnoswaggeringintrusionofservicesbyrowdyhackmen。Theselattergentrystoodoutside——stoodquietlybytheirlonglineofvehiclesandsaidneveraword。Akindofhackmangeneralseemedtohavethewholematteroftransportationinhishands。Hepolitelyreceivedthepassengersandusheredthemtothekindofconveyancetheywanted,andtoldthedriverwheretodeliverthem。Therewasno\"talkingback,\"nodissatisfactionaboutovercharging,nogrumblingaboutanything。InalittlewhilewewerespeedingthroughthestreetsofParisanddelightfullyrecognizingcertainnamesandplaceswithwhichbookshadlongagomadeusfamiliar。Itwaslikemeetinganoldfriendwhenweread\"RuedeRivoli\"onthestreetcorner;weknewthegenuinevastpalaceoftheLouvreaswellasweknewitspicture;whenwepassedbytheColumnofJulyweneedednoonetotelluswhatitwasortoremindusthatonitssiteoncestoodthegrimBastille,thatgraveofhumanhopesandhappiness,thatdismalprisonhousewithinwhosedungeonssomanyyoungfacesputonthewrinklesofage,somanyproudspiritsgrewhumble,somanybraveheartsbroke。

  Wesecuredroomsatthehotel,orrather,wehadthreebedsputintooneroom,sothatwemightbetogether,andthenwewentouttoarestaurant,justafterlamplighting,andateacomfortable,satisfactory,lingeringdinner。Itwasapleasuretoeatwhereeverythingwassotidy,thefoodsowellcooked,thewaiterssopolite,andthecominganddepartingcompanysomoustached,sofrisky,soaffable,sofearfullyandwonderfullyFrenchy!

  Allthesurroundingsweregayandenlivening。Twohundredpeoplesatatlittletablesonthesidewalk,sippingwineandcoffee;thestreetswerethrongedwithlightvehiclesandwithjoyouspleasure—seekers;therewasmusicintheair,lifeandactionallaboutus,andaconflagrationofgaslighteverywhere!

  AfterdinnerwefeltlikeseeingsuchParisianspecialtiesaswemightseewithoutdistressingexertion,andsowesaunteredthroughthebrilliantstreetsandlookedatthedaintytriflesinvarietystoresandjewelryshops。Occasionally,merelyforthepleasureofbeingcruel,weputunoffendingFrenchmenontherackwithquestionsframedintheincomprehensiblejargonoftheirnativelanguage,andwhiletheywrithedweimpaledthem,wepepperedthem,wescarifiedthem,withtheirownvileverbsandparticiples。

  Wenoticedthatinthejewelrystorestheyhadsomeofthearticlesmarked\"gold\"andsomelabeled\"imitation。\"Wewonderedatthisextravaganceofhonestyandinquiredintothematter。Wewereinformedthatinasmuchasmostpeoplearenotabletotellfalsegoldfromthegenuinearticle,thegovernmentcompelsjewelerstohavetheirgoldworkassayedandstampedofficiallyaccordingtoitsfinenessandtheirimitationworkdulylabeledwiththesignofitsfalsity。Theytoldusthejewelerswouldnotdaretoviolatethislaw,andthatwhateverastrangerboughtinoneoftheirstoresmightbedependeduponasbeingstrictlywhatitwasrepresentedtobe。Verily,awonderfullandisFrance!

  Thenwehuntedforabarbershop。FromearliestinfancyithadbeenacherishedambitionofminetobeshavedsomedayinapalatialbarbershopinParis。Iwishedtoreclineatfulllengthinacushionedinvalidchair,withpicturesaboutmeandsumptuousfurniture;withfrescoedwallsandgildedarchesabovemeandvistasofCorinthiancolumnsstretchingfarbeforeme;withperfumesofArabytointoxicatemysensesandtheslumbrousdroneofdistantnoisestosoothemetosleep。AttheendofanhourI

  wouldwakeupregretfullyandfindmyfaceassmoothandassoftasaninfant\'s。Departing,Iwouldliftmyhandsabovethatbarber\'sheadandsay,\"Heavenblessyou,myson!\"

  Sowesearchedhighandlow,foramatteroftwohours,butneverabarbershopcouldwesee。Wesawonlywigmakingestablishments,withshocksofdeadandrepulsivehairboundupontheheadsofpaintedwaxenbrigandswhostaredoutfromglassboxesuponthepasserbywiththeirstonyeyesandscaredhimwiththeghostlywhiteoftheircountenances。Weshunnedthesesignsforatime,butfinallyweconcludedthatthewigmakersmustofnecessitybethebarbersaswell,sincewecouldfindnosinglelegitimaterepresentativeofthefraternity。Weenteredandasked,andfoundthatitwasevenso。

  IsaidIwantedtobeshaved。Thebarberinquiredwheremyroomwas。

  Isaidnevermindwheremyroomwas,Iwantedtobeshaved——there,onthespot。Thedoctorsaidhewouldbeshavedalso。Thentherewasanexcitementamongthosetwobarbers!Therewasawildconsultation,andafterwardsahurryingtoandfroandafeverishgatheringupofrazorsfromobscureplacesandaransackingforsoap。Nexttheytookusintoalittlemean,shabbybackroom;theygottwoordinarysitting—roomchairsandplacedusinthemwithourcoatson。Myold,olddreamofblissvanishedintothinair!

  Isatboltupright,silent,sad,andsolemn。Oneofthewigmakingvillainslatheredmyfacefortenterribleminutesandfinishedbyplasteringamassofsudsintomymouth。IexpelledthenastystuffwithastrongEnglishexpletiveandsaid,\"Foreigner,beware!\"Thenthisoutlawstrappedhisrazoronhisboot,hoveredovermeominouslyforsixfearfulseconds,andthenswoopeddownuponmelikethegeniusofdestruction。Thefirstrakeofhisrazorloosenedtheveryhidefrommyfaceandliftedmeoutofthechair。Istormedandraved,andtheotherboysenjoyedit。Theirbeardsarenotstrongandthick。Letusdrawthecurtainoverthisharrowingscene。

  SufficeitthatIsubmittedandwentthroughwiththecruelinflictionofashavebyaFrenchbarber;tearsofexquisiteagonycourseddownmycheeksnowandthen,butIsurvived。Thentheincipientassassinheldabasinofwaterundermychinandsloppeditscontentsovermyface,andintomybosom,anddownthebackofmyneck,withameanpretenseofwashingawaythesoapandblood。Hedriedmyfeatureswithatowelandwasgoingtocombmyhair,butIaskedtobeexcused。Isaid,withwitheringirony,thatitwassufficienttobeskinned——Ideclinedtobescalped。

  Iwentawayfromtherewithmyhandkerchiefaboutmyface,andnever,never,neverdesiredtodreamofpalatialParisianbarbershopsanymore。

  Thetruthis,asIbelieveIhavesincefoundout,thattheyhavenobarbershopsworthyofthenameinParis——andnobarbers,either,forthatmatter。Theimpostorwhodoesdutyasabarberbringshispansandnapkinsandimplementsoftorturetoyourresidenceanddeliberatelyskinsyouinyourprivateapartments。Ah,Ihavesuffered,suffered,suffered,hereinParis,butnevermind——thetimeiscomingwhenIshallhaveadarkandbloodyrevenge。

  SomedayaParisianbarberwillcometomyroomtoskinme,andfromthatdayforththatbarberwillneverbeheardofmore。

  Ateleveno\'clockwealighteduponasignwhichmanifestlyreferredtobilliards。Joy!WehadplayedbilliardsintheAzoreswithballsthatwerenotroundandonanancienttablethatwasverylittlesmootherthanabrickpavement——oneofthosewretchedoldthingswithdeadcushions,andwithpatchesinthefadedclothandinvisibleobstructionsthatmadetheballsdescribethemostastonishingandunsuspectedanglesandperformfeatsinthewayofunlooked—forandalmostimpossible\"scratches\"thatwereperfectlybewildering。WehadplayedatGibraltarwithballsthesizeofawalnutonatablelikeapublicsquareandinbothinstancesweachievedfarmoreaggravationthanamusement。Weexpectedtofarebetterhere,butweweremistaken。Thecushionswereagooddealhigherthantheballs,andastheballshadafashionofalwaysstoppingunderthecushions,weaccomplishedverylittleinthewayofcaroms。Thecushionswerehardandunelastic,andthecuesweresocrookedthatinmakingashotyouhadtoallowforthecurveoryouwouldinfalliblyputthe\"English\"onthewrongsideofthehall。DanwastomarkwhilethedoctorandIplayed。Attheendofanhourneitherofushadmadeacount,andsoDanwastiredofkeepingtallywithnothingtotally,andwewereheatedandangryanddisgusted。

  Wepaidtheheavybill——aboutsixcents——andsaidwewouldcallaroundsometimewhenwehadaweektospend,andfinishthegame。

  Weadjournedtooneofthoseprettycafésandtooksupperandtestedthewinesofthecountry,aswehadbeeninstructedtodo,andfoundthemharmlessandunexciting。Theymighthavebeenexciting,however,ifwehadchosentodrinkasufficiencyofthem。

  TocloseourfirstdayinParischeerfullyandpleasantly,wenowsoughtourgrandroomintheGrandHotelduLouvreandclimbedintooursumptuousbedtoreadandsmoke——butalas!Itwaspitiful,Inawholecity—full,Gaswehadnone。Nogastoreadby——nothingbutdismalcandles。Itwasashame。Wetriedtomapoutexcursionsforthemorrow;wepuzzledoverFrench\"guidestoParis\";wetalkeddisjointedlyinavainendeavortomakeheadortailofthewildchaosoftheday\'ssightsandexperiences;wesubsidedtoindolentsmoking;wegapedandyawnedandstretched——thenfeeblywonderedifwewerereallyandtrulyinrenownedParis,anddrifteddrowsilyawayintothatvastmysteriousvoidwhichmencallsleep。

  1。Theygoontheprinciplethatitisbetterthatoneinnocentmanshouldsufferthanfivehundred。

  Chapter13

  Thenextmorningwewereupanddressedatteno\'clock。Wewenttothecommissionaireofthehotel——Idon\'tknowwhatacommissionaireis,butthatisthemanwewentto——andtoldhimwewantedaguide。

  HesaidthenationalExpositionhaddrawnsuchmultitudesofEnglishmenandAmericanstoParisthatitwouldbenexttoimpossibletofindagoodguideunemployed。Hesaidheusuallykeptadozenortwoonhand,butheonlyhadthreenow。Hecalledthem。Onelookedsolikeaverypiratethatwelethimgoatonce。Thenextonespokewithasimperingprecisionofpronunciationthatwasirritatingandsaid:

  \"Ifzezhentlemanswilltomemakezegrandehonneurtomerattaininheesserveece,IshallshowtohimeverysingzatismagnifiquetolookuponinzebeautifulParree。IspeakyzeAngleeshpairfaitemaw。\"

  Hewouldhavedonewelltohavestoppedthere,becausehehadthatmuchbyheartandsaiditrightoffwithoutmakingamistake。Buthisself—complacencyseducedhimintoattemptingaflightintoregionsofunexploredEnglish,andtherecklessexperimentwashisruin。Withintensecondshewassotangledupinamazeofmutilatedverbsandtornandbleedingformsofspeechthatnohumaningenuitycouldeverhavegottenhimoutofitwithcredit。Itwasplainenoughthathecouldnot\"speaky\"theEnglishquiteas\"pairfaitemaw\"ashehadpretendedhecould。

  Thethirdmancapturedus。Hewasplainlydressed,buthehadanoticeableairofneatnessabouthim。Heworeahighsilkhatwhichwasalittleold,buthadbeencarefullybrushed。Heworesecondhandkidgloves,ingoodrepair,andcarriedasmallrattancanewithacurvedhandle——afemaleleg——ofivory。Hesteppedasgentlyandasdaintilyasacatcrossingamuddystreet;andoh,hewasurbanity;hewasquiet,unobtrusiveself—possession;

  hewasdeferenceitself!Hespokesoftlyandguardedly;andwhenhewasabouttomakeastatementonhissoleresponsibilityorofferasuggestion,heweigheditbydrachmsandscruplesfirst,withthecrookofhislittlestickplacedmeditativelytohisteeth。Hisopeningspeechwasperfect。

  Itwasperfectinconstruction,inphraseology,ingrammar,inemphasis,inpronunciation——everything。Hespokelittleandguardedlyafterthat。

  Wewerecharmed。Weweremorethancharmed——wewereoverjoyed。Wehiredhimatonce。Weneverevenaskedhimhisprice。Thisman——ourlackey,ourservant,ourunquestioningslavethoughhewas——wasstillagentleman——wecouldseethat——whileoftheothertwoonewascoarseandawkwardandtheotherwasabornpirate。WeaskedourmanFriday\'sname。Hedrewfromhispocketbookasnowylittlecardandpassedittouswithaprofoundbow:

  A。BILLFINGERGuidetoParis,France,Germany,Spain,&c。,&c。

  GrandeHotelduLouvre\"Billfinger!Oh,carrymehometodie!\"

  Thatwasan\"aside\"fromDan。Theatrociousnamegratedharshlyonmyear,too。Themostofuscanlearntoforgive,andeventolike,acountenancethatstrikesusunpleasantlyatfirst,butfewofus,Ifancy,becomereconciledtoajarringnamesoeasily。Iwasalmostsorrywehadhiredthisman,hisnamewassounbearable。However,nomatter。Wewereimpatienttostart。

  Billfingersteppedtothedoortocallacarriage,andthenthedoctorsaid:

  \"Well,theguidegoeswiththebarbershop,withthebilliardtable,withthegaslessroom,andmaybewithmanyanotherprettyromanceofParis。

  IexpectedtohaveaguidenamedHenrideMontmorencyorArmanddelaChartreuseOrsomethingthatwouldsoundgrandinletterstothevillagersathome,buttothinkofaFrenchmanbythenameofBillfinger!Oh!Thisisabsurd,youknow。Thiswillneverdo。Wecan\'tsayBillfinger;itisnauseating。

  Namehimoveragain;whathadwebettercallhim?AlexisduCaulaincourt?\"

  \"AlphonseHenriGustavedeHauteville,\"Isuggested。

  \"CallhimFerguson,\"saidDan。

  Thatwaspractical,unromanticgoodsense。Withoutdebate,weexpungedBillfingerasBillfingerandcalledhimFerguson。

  Thecarriage——anopenbarouche——wasready。Fergusonmountedbesidethedriver,andwewhirledawaytobreakfast。Aswasproper,Mr。Fergusonstoodbytotransmitourordersandanswerquestions。Byandby,hementionedcasually——theartfuladventurer——thathewouldgoandgethisbreakfastassoonaswehadfinishedours。Heknewwecouldnotgetalongwithouthimandthatwewouldnotwanttoloiteraboutandwaitforhim。Weaskedhimtositdownandeatwithus。Hebegged,withmanyabow,tobeexcused。

  Itwasnotproper,hesaid;hewouldsitatanothertable。Weorderedhimperemptorilytositdownwithus。

  Hereendeththefirstlesson。Itwasamistake。

  Aslongaswehadthatfellowafterthat,hewasalwayshungry;hewasalwaysthirsty。Hecameearly;hestayedlate;hecouldnotpassarestaurant;

  helookedwithalecherouseyeuponeverywineshop。Suggestionstostop,excusestoeatandtodrink,wereforeveronhislips。Wetriedallwecouldtofillhimsofullthathewouldhavenoroomtospareforafortnight,butitwasafailure。Hedidnot,holdenoughtosmotherthecravingsofhissuperhumanappetite。

  Hehadanother\"discrepancy\"abouthim。Hewasalwayswantingustobuythings。Ontheshallowestpretenseshewouldinveigleusintoshirtstores,bootstores,tailorshops,gloveshops——anywhereunderthebroadsweepoftheheavensthatthereseemedachanceofourbuyinganything。

  Anyonecouldhaveguessedthattheshopkeeperspaidhimapercentageonthesales,butinourblessedinnocencewedidn\'tuntilthisfeatureofhisconductgrewunbearablyprominent。OnedayDanhappenedtomentionthathethoughtofbuyingthreeorfoursilkdresspatternsforpresents。

  Ferguson\'shungryeyewasuponhiminaninstant。Inthecourseoftwentyminutesthecarriagestopped。

  \"What\'sthis?\"

  \"ZisiszefinestsilkmagasininParis——zemostcelebrate。\"

  \"Whatdidyoucomeherefor?WetoldyoutotakeustothepalaceoftheLouvre。\"

  \"Isupposezegentlemansayhewishtobuysomesilk。\"

  \"Youarenotrequiredto\'suppose\'thingsfortheparty,Ferguson。Wedonotwishtotaxyourenergiestoomuch。Wewillbearsomeoftheburdenandheatofthedayourselves。Wewillendeavortodosuch\'supposing\'

  asisreallynecessarytobedone。Driveon。\"Sospakethedoctor。

  Withinfifteenminutesthecarriagehaltedagain,andbeforeanothersilkstore。Thedoctorsaid:

  \"Ah,thepalaceoftheLouvre——beautiful,beautifuledifice!DoestheEmperorNapoleonliveherenow,Ferguson?\"

  \"Ah,Doctor!Youdojest;zisisnotzepalace;wecometheredirectly。

  Butsincewepassrightbyzisstore,whereissuchbeautifulsilk——\'

  \"Ah!Isee,Isee。Imeanttohavetoldyouthatwedidnotwishtopurchaseanysilkstoday,butinmyabsentmindednessIforgotit。IalsomeanttotellyouwewishedtogodirectlytotheLouvre,butIforgotthatalso。However,wewillgotherenow。Pardonmyseemingcarelessness,Ferguson。Driveon。\"

  Withinthehalfhourwestoppedagain——infrontofanothersilkstore。

  Wewereangry;butthedoctorwasalwaysserene,alwayssmooth—voiced。

  Hesaid:

  \"Atlast!HowimposingtheLouvreis,andyethowsmall!Howexquisitelyfashioned!Howcharminglysituated!Venerable,venerablepile——\"

  \"Pairdon,Doctor,zisisnotzeLouvre——itis——\"

  \"Whatisit?\'

  \"Ihavezeidea——itcometomeinamoment——zatzesilkinzismagasin——\"

  \"Ferguson,howheedlessIam。Ifullyintendedtotellyouthatwedidnotwishtobuyanysilkstoday,andIalsointendedtotellyouthatweyearnedtogoimmediatelytothepalaceoftheLouvre,butenjoyingthehappinessofseeingyoudevourfourbreakfaststhismorninghassofilledmewithpleasurableemotionsthatIneglectthecommonestinterestsofthetime。However,wewillproceednowtotheLouvre,Ferguson。\"

  \"But,Doctor\"(excitedly),\"itwilltakenotaminute——notbutonesmallminute!Zegentlemanneednottobuyifhenotwishto——butonlylookatzesilk——lookatzebeautifulfabric。[Thenpleadingly。]Sair——justonlyoneleetlemoment!\"

  Dansaid,\"Confoundtheidiot!Idon\'twanttoseeanysilkstoday,andIwon\'tlookatthem。Driveon。\"

  Andthedoctor:\"Weneednosilksnow,Ferguson。OurheartsyearnfortheLouvre。Letusjourneyon——letusjourneyon。\"

  \"But,Doctor!Itisonlyonemoment——oneleetlemoment。Andzetimewillbesave——entirelysave!Becausezereisnothingtoseenow——itistoolate。ItwanttenminutetofourandzeLouvrecloseatfour——onlyoneleetlemoment,Doctor!\"

  Thetreacherousmiscreant!Afterfourbreakfastsandagallonofchampagne,toserveussuchascurvytrick。WegotnosightofthecountlesstreasuresofartintheLouvregalleriesthatday,andouronlypoorlittlesatisfactionwasinthereflectionthatFergusonsoldnotasolitarysilkdresspattern。

  IamwritingthischapterpartlyforthesatisfactionofabusingthataccomplishedknaveBillfinger,andpartlytoshowwhosoevershallreadthishowAmericansfareatthehandsoftheParisguidesandwhatsortofpeopleParisguidesare。Itneednotbesupposedthatwewereastupideroraneasierpreythanourcountrymengenerallyare,forwewerenot。TheguidesdeceiveanddefraudeveryAmericanwhogoestoParisforthefirsttimeandseesitssightsaloneorincompanywithothersaslittleexperiencedashimself。IshallvisitParisagainsomeday,andthenlettheguidesbeware!Ishallgoinmywarpaint——Ishallcarrymytomahawkalong。

  IthinkwehavelostbutlittletimeinParis。Wehavegonetobedeverynighttiredout。OfcoursewevisitedtherenownedInternationalExposition。

  Alltheworlddidthat。WewentthereonourthirddayinParis——andwestayedtherenearlytwohours。Thatwasourfirstandlastvisit。

  Totellthetruth,wesawataglancethatonewouldhavetospendweeks——yea,evenmonths——inthatmonstrousestablishmenttogetanintelligibleideaofit。Itwasawonderfulshow,butthemovingmassesofpeopleofallnationswesawtherewereastillmorewonderfulshow。IdiscoveredthatifIweretostaythereamonth,Ishouldstillfindmyselflookingatthepeopleinsteadoftheinanimateobjectsonexhibition。Igotalittleinterestedinsomecuriousoldtapestriesofthethirteenthcentury,butapartyofArabscameby,andtheirduskyfacesandquaintcostumescalledmyattentionawayatonce。Iwatchedasilverswan,whichhadalivinggraceabouthismovementsandalivingintelligenceinhiseyes——watchedhimswimmingaboutascomfortablyandasunconcernedlyasifhehadbeenborninamorassinsteadofajeweler\'sshop——watchedhimseizeasilverfishfromunderthewaterandholduphisheadandgothroughallthecustomaryandelaboratemotionsofswallowingit——butthemomentitdisappeareddownhisthroatsometattooedSouthSeaIslandersapproachedandIyieldedtotheirattractions。PresentlyIfoundarevolvingpistolseveralhundredyearsoldwhichlookedstrangelylikeamodernColt,butjustthenIheardthattheEmpressoftheFrenchwasinanotherpartofthebuilding,andhastenedawaytoseewhatshemightlooklike。Weheardmartialmusic——wesawanunusualnumberofsoldierswalkinghurriedlyabout——therewasageneralmovementamongthepeople。WeinquiredwhatitwasallaboutandlearnedthattheEmperoroftheFrenchandtheSultanofTurkeywereabouttoreviewtwenty—fivethousandtroopsattheArcdel\'Etoile。Weimmediatelydeparted。IhadagreateranxietytoseethesementhanIcouldhavehadtoseetwentyexpositions。

  WedroveawayandtookupapositioninanopenspaceoppositetheAmericanminister\'shouse。Aspeculatorbridgedacoupleofbarrelswithaboardandwehiredstandingplacesonit。Presentlytherewasasoundofdistantmusic;inanotherminuteapillarofdustcamemovingslowlytowardus;

  amomentmoreandthen,withcolorsflyingandagrandcrashofmilitarymusic,agallantarrayofcavalrymenemergedfromthedustandcamedownthestreetonagentletrot。Afterthemcamealonglineofartillery;

  thenmorecavalry,insplendiduniforms;andthentheirimperialmajestiesNapoleonIIIandAbdul—Aziz。Thevastconcourseofpeopleswungtheirhatsandshouted——thewindowsandhousetopsinthewidevicinityburstintoasnowstormofwavinghandkerchiefs,andthewaversofthesamemingledtheircheerswiththoseofthemassesbelow。Itwasastirringspectacle。

  Butthetwocentralfiguresclaimedallmyattention。Waseversuchacontrastsetupbeforeamultitudetillthen?Napoleoninmilitaryuniform——along—bodied,short—leggedman,fiercelymoustached,old,wrinkled,witheyeshalfclosed,andsuchadeep,crafty,schemingexpressionaboutthem!Napoleonbowingeversogentlytotheloudplaudits,andwatchingeverythingandeverybodywithhiscateyesfromunderhisdepressedhatbrim,asiftodiscoveranysignthatthosecheerswerenotheartfeltandcordial。

  Abdul—Aziz,absolutelordoftheOttomanempire——cladindarkgreenEuropeanclothes,almostwithoutornamentorinsigniaofrank;aredTurkishfezonhishead;ashort,stout,darkman,black—bearded,black—eyed,stupid,unprepossessing——amanwhosewholeappearancesomehowsuggestedthatifheonlyhadacleaverinhishandandawhiteapronon,onewouldnotbeatallsurprisedtohearhimsay:\"Amuttonroasttoday,orwillyouhaveaniceporterhousesteak?\"

  NapoleonIII,therepresentativeofthehighestmodemcivilization,progress,andrefinement;Abdul—Aziz,therepresentativeofapeoplebynatureandtrainingfilthy,brutish,ignorant,unprogressive,superstitious——andagovernmentwhoseThreeGracesareTyranny,Rapacity,Blood。HereinbrilliantParis,underthismajesticArchofTriumph,thefirstcenturygreetsthenineteenthNapoleonIII,EmperorofFrance!Surroundedbyshoutingthousands,bymilitarypomp,bythesplendorsofhiscapitalcity,andcompanionedbykingsandprinces——thisisthemanwhowassneeredatandreviledandcalledBastard——yetwhowasdreamingofacrownandanempireallthewhile;whowasdrivenintoexile——butcarriedhisdreamswithhim;whoassociatedwiththecommonherdinAmericaandranfootracesforawager——butstillsatuponathroneinfancy;whobravedeverydangertogotohisdyingmother——andgrievedthatshecouldnotbesparedtoseehimcastasidehisplebeianvestmentsforthepurpleofroyalty;whokepthisfaithfulwatchandwalkedhiswearybeatacommonpolicemanofLondon——butdreamedthewhileofacomingnightwhenheshouldtreadthelong—drawncorridorsoftheTuileries;whomadethemiserablefiascoofStrasbourg;sawhispoor,shabbyeagle,forgetfulofitslesson,refusetoperchuponhisshoulder;

  deliveredhiscarefullyprepared,sententiousburstofeloquenceuntounsympatheticears;foundhimselfaprisoner,thebuttofsmallwits,amarkforthepitilessridiculeofalltheworld——yetwentondreamingofcoronationsandsplendidpageantsasbefore;wholayaforgottencaptiveinthedungeonsofHam——andstillschemedandplannedandponderedoverfuturegloryandfuturepower;PresidentofFranceatlast!acoupd\'etat,andsurroundedbyapplaudingarmies,welcomedbythethundersofcannon,hemountsathroneandwavesbeforeanastoundedworldthescepterofamightyempire!Whotalksofthemarvelsoffiction?Whospeaksofthewondersofromance?

  WhopratesofthetameachievementsofAladdinandtheMagiiofArabia?

  Abdul—Aziz,SultanofTurkey,LordoftheOttomanEmpire!Borntoathrone;weak,stupid,ignorant,almost,ashismeanestslave;chiefofavastroyalty,yetthepuppetofhispremierandtheobedientchildofatyrannicalmother;amanwhositsuponathrone——thebeckofwhosefingermovesnaviesandarmies——whoholdsinhishandsthepoweroflifeanddeathovermillions——yetwhosleeps,sleeps,eats,eats,idleswithhiseighthundredconcubines,andwhenheissurfeitedwitheatingandsleepingandidling,andwouldrouseupandtakethereinsofgovernmentandthreatentobeasultan,ischarmedfromhispurposebywaryFuadPashawithaprettyplanforanewpalaceoranewship——charmedawaywithanewtoy,likeanyotherrestlesschild;amanwhoseeshispeoplerobbedandoppressedbysoullesstaxgatherers,butspeaksnowordtosavethem;whobelievesingnomesandgeniiandthewildfablesofTheArabianNights,buthassmallregardforthemightymagiciansoftodayandisnervousinthepresenceoftheirmysteriousrailroadsandsteamboatsandtelegraphs;whowouldseeundoneinEgyptallthatgreatMehemetAliachievedandwouldpreferrathertoforgetthanemulatehim;amanwhofoundhisgreatempireablotupontheearth——adegraded,poverty—stricken,miserable,infamousagglomerationofignorance,crime,andbrutality——andwillidleawaytheallotteddaysofhistriviallifeandthenpasstothedustandthewormsandleaveitso!

  NapoleonhasaugmentedthecommercialprosperityofFranceintenyearstosuchadegreethatfigurescanhardlycomputeit。HehasrebuiltParisandhaspartlyrebuilteverycityinthestate。Hecondemnsawholestreetatatime,assessesthedamages,paysthem,andrebuildssuperbly。Thenspeculatorsbuyupthegroundandsell,buttheoriginalownerisgiventhefirstchoicebythegovernmentatastatedpricebeforethespeculatorispermittedtopurchase。Butaboveallthings,hehastakenthesolecontroloftheempireofFranceintohishandsandmadeitatolerablyfreeland——forpeoplewhowillnotattempttogotoofarinmeddlingwithgovernmentaffairs。

  NocountryoffersgreatersecuritytolifeandpropertythanFrance,andonehasallthefreedomhewants,butnolicense——nolicensetointerferewithanybodyormakeanyoneuncomfortable。

  AsfortheSultan,onecouldsetatrapanywhereandcatchadozenablermeninanight。

  Thebandsstruckup,andthebrilliantadventurer,NapoleonIII,thegeniusofEnergy,Persistence,Enterprise,andthefeebleAbdul—Aziz,thegeniusofIgnorance,Bigotry,andIndolence,preparedfortheForward——March!

  Wesawthesplendidreview,wesawthewhite—moustachedoldCrimeansoldierCanrobert,marshalofFrance,wesaw——well,wesaweverything,andthenwewenthomesatisfied。

  Chapter14

  WewenttoseetheCathedralofNotreDame。Wehadheardofitbefore。

  Itsurprisesmesometimestothinkhowmuchwedoknowandhowintelligentweare。WerecognizedthebrownoldGothicpileinamoment;itwaslikethepictures。Westoodatalittledistanceandchangedfromonepointofobservationtoanotherandgazedlongatitsloftysquaretowersanditsrichfront,clusteredthickwithstony,mutilatedsaintswhohadbeenlookingcalmlydownfromtheirperchesforages。ThePatriarchofJerusalemstoodunderthemintheolddaysofchivalryandromance,andpreachedthethirdCrusade,morethansixhundredyearsago;andsincethatdaytheyhavestoodthereandlookedquietlydownuponthemostthrillingscenes,thegrandestpageants,themostextraordinaryspectaclesthathavegrievedordelightedParis。Thesebatteredandbroken—nosedoldfellowssawmanyandmanyacavalcadeofmail—cladknightscomemarchinghomefromHolyLand;theyheardthebellsabovethemtollthesignalfortheSt。Bartholomew\'sMassacre,andtheysawtheslaughterthatfollowed;latertheysawtheReignofTerror,thecarnageoftheRevolution,theoverthrowofaking,thecoronationoftwoNapoleons,thechristeningoftheyoungprincethatlordsitoveraregimentofservantsintheTuileriestoday——andtheymaypossiblycontinuetostandthereuntiltheyseetheNapoleondynastysweptawayandthebannersofagreatrepublicfloatingaboveitsruins。Iwishtheseoldpartiescouldspeak。Theycouldtellataleworththelisteningto。

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