shesmiled,andinhernativelanguagesaidthatshehadnoSaxon。
OnmytellingherinWelshthatIwascometoseethePistyllshesmiledagain,andsaidthatIwaswelcome,thentakingmeroundthehouse,shepointedtoapathandbademefollowit。Ifollowedthepathwhichleddownwardtoatinybridgeofplanks,alittlewaybelowthefall。Iadvancedtothemiddleofthebridge,thenturningtothewest,lookedatthewonderfulobjectbeforeme。
TherearemanyremarkablecataractsinBritainandtheneighbouringisles,eventhelittleCelticIsleofManhasitsremarkablewaterfall;butthisRhyadr,thegrandcataractofNorthWales,farexceedsthemallinaltitudeandbeauty,thoughitisinferiortoseveraloftheminthevolumeofitsflood。Ineversawwaterfallingsogracefully,somuchlikethinbeautifulthreads,ashere。Yeteventhiscataracthasitsblemish。Whatbeautifulobjecthasnotsomethingwhichmoreorlessmarsitsloveliness?
Thereisanuglyblackbridgeorsemi—circleofrock,abouttwofeetindiameterandabouttwentyfeethigh,whichrisessomelittlewaybelowit,andunderwhichthewater,afterreachingthebottom,passes,whichinterceptsthesight,andpreventsitfromtakinginthewholefallatonce。Thisunsightlyobjecthasstoodwhereitnowstandssincethedayofcreation,andwillprobablyremaintheretothedayofjudgment。Itwouldbeadesecrationofnaturetoremoveitbyart,butnoonecouldregretifnatureinoneofherfloodsweretosweepitaway。
AsIwasstandingontheplanksawomanplainlybutneatlydressedcamefromthehouse。SheaddressedmeinveryimperfectEnglish,sayingthatshewasthemistressofthehouseandshouldbehappytoshowmeabout。Ithankedherforheroffer,andtoldherthatshemightspeakWelsh,whereuponshelookedglad,andsaidinthattonguethatshecouldspeakWelshmuchbetterthanSaesneg。Shetookmebyawindingpathupasteepbankonthesouthernsideofthefalltoasmallplateau,andtoldmethatwasthebestplacetoseethePistyllfrom。Ididnotthinkso,forwewerenowsonearthatwewerealmostblindedbythespray,though,itistrue,thesemicircleofrocknolongerimpededthesight;thisobjectwenowsawnearlylaterallyrisinguplikeaspectralarch,sprayandfoamaboveit,andwaterrushingbelow。\"Thatisabridgeratherforysprydoedd(9)topassoverthanmen,\"saidI。