resident，andhoiststheFrenchcoloursoveraquiteextensivecompound。AChinaman，awaiffromtheplantation，keepsarestaurantintherearquartersofthevillage；andthemissioniswellrepresentedbythesister’sschoolandBrotherMichel’schurch。FatherOrens，awonderfuloctogenarian，hisframescarcebowed，thefireofhiseyeundimmed，haslived，andtrembled，andsufferedinthisplacesince1843。Againandagain，whenMoipuhadmadecoco-brandy，hehasbeendrivenfromhishouseintothewoods。
’Amousethatdweltinacat’sear’hadamoreeasyresting-place；
andyetIhaveneverseenamanthatborelessmarkofyears。Hemustshowusthechurch，stilldecoratedwiththebishop’sartlessornamentsofpaper-thelastworkofindustriousoldhands，andthelastearthlyamusementofamanthatwasmuchofahero。Inthesacristywemustseehissacredvessels，and，inparticular，avestmentwhichwasa’VRAIECURIOSITE，’becauseithadbeengivenbyagendarme。TotheProtestantthereisalwayssomethingembarrassingintheeagernesswithwhichgrownandholymenregardthesetrifles；butitwastouchingandprettytoseeOrens，hisagedeyesshininginhishead，displayhissacredtreasures。
AUGUST26-Thevalebehindthevillage，narrowingswiftlytoamereravine，waschokedwithprofitabletrees。Arivergushedinthemidst。Overhead，thetallcoco-palmsmadeaprimarycovering；
abovethat，fromonewallofthemountaintoanother，theravinewasroofedwithcloud；sothatwemovedbelow，amidteemingvegetation，inacoveredhouseofheat。Oneitherhand，ateveryhundredyards，insteadofthehouseless，disembowellingpaepaesofNuka-hiva，populoushousesturnedouttheirinhabitantstocry’Kaoha！’tothepassers-by。Theroad，too，wasbusy：stringsofgirls，fairandfoul，asinlessfavouredcountries；menbearingbreadfruit；thesisters，withalittleguardofpupils；afellowbestridingahorse-passedandgreeteduscontinually；andnowitwasaChinamanwhocametothegateofhisflower-yard，andgaveus’Good-day’inexcellentEnglish；andalittlefartheronitwouldbesomenativeswhosetusdownbythewayside，madeusafeastofmummy-apple，andentertainedusasweatewithdrummingonatincase。Withallthisfineplentyofmenandfruit，deathisatworkherealso。Thepopulation，accordingtothehighestestimate，doesnotexceedsixhundredinthewholevaleofAtuona；andyet，whenI