Goingupandthendownasteep，woodedhill，theroadappearedtoreturntoitsoriginalstateofbrushwood，andthemenstoppedatthebrokenedgeofadeclivitywhichleddowntoashinglebankandafoam-crestedriverofclear，blue-greenwater，stronglyimpregnatedwithsulphurfromsomemedicinalspringsabove，withasteepbankoftangleontheoppositeside。Thisbeautifulstreamwascrossedbytworoundpoles，afootapart，onwhichIattemptedtowalkwiththehelpofanAinohand；butthepoleswereveryunsteady，andIdoubtwhetheranyone，evenwithastronghead，couldwalkontheminboots。ThenthebeautifulAinosignedtometocomebackandmountonhisshoulders；butwhenhehadgotafewfeetoutthepolesswayedandtrembledsomuchthathewasobligedtoretracehiswaycautiously，duringwhichprocessIenduredmiseriesfromdizzinessandfear；afterwhichhecarriedmethroughtherushingwater，whichwasuptohisshoulders，andthroughabitofswampyjungle，andupasteepbank，tothegreatfatiguebothofbodyandmind，hardlymitigatedbytheenjoymentoftheludicrousinridingasavagethroughtheseYezowaters。Theydexterouslycarriedthekurumathrough，ontheshouldersoffour，andshowedextremeanxietythatneitheritnorIshouldgetwet。Afterthiswecrossedtwodeep，stillriversinscows，andfarabovethegreylevelandthegreyseathesunwassettingingoldandvermilion-
streakedgreenbehindaglorifiedmountainofgreatheight，atwhosefeettheforest-coveredhillslayinpurplegloom。AtdarkwereachedShiraoi，avillageofelevenJapanesehouses，withavillageoffifty-oneAinohouses，nearthesea。Thereisalargeyadoyaoftheoldstylethere；butIfoundthatItohadchosenaveryprettynewone，withfourstallsopentotheroad，inthecentreoneofwhichIfoundhim，withthewelcomenewsthatasteakoffreshsalmonwasbroilingonthecoals；and，astheroomwascleanandsweetandIwasveryhungry，Ienjoyedmymealbythelightofarushinasauceroffish-oilasmuchasanypartoftheday。
Thenightwastoocoldforsleep，andatdaybreak，hearingagreatdin，Ilookedout，andsawadroveoffullyahundredhorsesallgallopingdowntheroad，withtwoAinosonhorse-back，andanumberofbigdogsafterthem。Hundredsofhorsesrunnearlywildonthehills，andtheAinos，gettingalargedrovetogether，skilfullyheadthemfortheentranceintothecorral，inwhichaselectionofthemismadefortheday’sneeds，andtheremainder——thatis，thosewiththedeepestsoresontheirbacks——areturnedloose。ThisdullrattleofshoelessfeetisthefirstsoundinthemorningintheseYezovillages。IsentItoonearly，andfollowedatninewiththreeAinos。Theroadisperfectlylevelforthirteenmiles，throughgravelflatsandswamps，verymonotonous，butwithawildcharmofitsown。Therewereswampylakes，withwildducksandsmallwhitewater-lilies，andthesurroundinglevelswerecoveredwithreedygrass，flowers，andweeds。Theearlyautumnhaswitheredagreatmanyoftheflowers；butenoughremainstoshowhowbeautifulthenowrussetplainsmusthavebeenintheearlysummer。Adwarfrose，ofadeepcrimsoncolour，withorange，medlar-shapedhips，aslargeascrabs，andcorollasthreeinchesacross，isoneofthefeaturesofYezo；andbesides，thereisalargerose-redconvolvulus，abluecampanula，withtiersofbells，abluemonkshood，theAconitumJaponicum，theflauntingCalystegiasoldanella，purpleasters，grassofParnassus，yellowlilies，andaremarkabletrailer，whosedelicateleafagelookedquiteoutofplaceamongitscoarsesurroundings，withapurplish-browncampanulateblossom，onlyremarkableforapeculiararrangementofthepistil，greenstamens，andamostoffensivecarrion-likeodour，whichisprobablytoattracttoitaveryobjectionable-lookingfly，forpurposesoffertilisation。
WeovertookfourAinowomen，youngandcomely，withbarefeet，stridingfirmlyalong；andafteragooddealoflaughingwiththemen，theytookholdofthekuruma，andthewholesevenracedwithitatfullspeedforhalfamile，shriekingwithlaughter。Soonafterwecameuponalittletea-house，andtheAinosshowedmeastrawpackage，andpointedtotheiropenmouths，bywhichI
understoodthattheywishedtostopandeat。LaterweovertookfourJapaneseonhorseback，andtheAinosracedwiththemforaconsiderabledistance，theresultofthesespurtsbeingthatI