Inonetowntwoveryshabbypolicemenrusheduponus,seizedthebridleofmyhorse,andkeptmewaitingforalongtimeinthemiddleofacrowd,whiletheytoilsomelyboredthroughthepassport,turningitupanddown,andholdingituptothelight,asthoughthereweresomenefariousmysteryaboutit。MyhorsestumbledsobadlythatIwasobligedtowalktosavemyselffromanotherfall,and,justasmypowerswerefailing,wemetakuruma,whichbygoodmanagement,suchasbeingcarriedoccasionally,broughtmeintoKuroishi,aneattownof5500people,famousforthemakingofclogsandcombs,whereIhaveobtainedaveryneat,airy,upstairsroom,withagoodviewoverthesurroundingcountryandofthedoingsofmyneighboursintheirbackroomsandgardens。
InsteadofgettingontoAomoriIamspendingthreedaysandtwonightshere,and,astheweatherhasimprovedandmyroomisremarkablycheerful,theresthasbeenverypleasant。AsIhavesaidbefore,itisdifficulttogetanyinformationaboutanythingevenafewmilesoff,andevenatthePostOfficetheycannotgiveanyintelligenceastothedateofthesailingsofthemailsteamerbetweenAomori,twentymilesoff,andHakodate。
Thepolicewerenotsatisfiedwithseeingmypassport,butmustalsoseeme,andfourofthempaidmeapolitebutdomiciliaryvisittheeveningofmyarrival。Thateveningthesoundofdrummingwasceaseless,andsoonafterIwasinbedItoannouncedthattherewassomethingreallyworthseeing,soIwentoutinmykimonoandwithoutmyhat,andinthisdisguisealtogetherescapedrecognitionasaforeigner。Kuroishiisunlighted,andIwastumblingandstumblingalonginoverhastewhenastrongarmclearedtheway,andthehouse-masterappearedwithaveryprettylantern,hangingclosetothegroundfromacaneheldinthehand。Thuscamethephrase,“Thywordisalightuntomyfeet。“
Wesoonreachedapointforseeingthefestivalprocessionadvancetowardsus,anditwassobeautifulandpicturesquethatitkeptmeoutforanhour。Itpassesthroughallthestreetsbetween7and10p。m。eachnightduringthefirstweekinAugust,withanark,orcoffer,containingslipsofpaper,onwhichasIunderstand
wishesarewritten,andeachmorningatseventhisiscarriedtotheriverandtheslipsarecastuponthestream。Theprocessionconsistedofthreemonsterdrumsnearlytheheightofaman’sbody,coveredwithhorsehide,andstrappedtothedrummers,endupwards,andthirtysmalldrums,allbeatenrub-a-dub-dubwithoutceasing。