Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第33章

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第33章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  Inonetowntwoveryshabbypolicemenrusheduponus,seizedthebridleofmyhorse,andkeptmewaitingforalongtimeinthemiddleofacrowd,whiletheytoilsomelyboredthroughthepassport,turningitupanddown,andholdingituptothelight,asthoughthereweresomenefariousmysteryaboutit。MyhorsestumbledsobadlythatIwasobligedtowalktosavemyselffromanotherfall,and,justasmypowerswerefailing,wemetakuruma,whichbygoodmanagement,suchasbeingcarriedoccasionally,broughtmeintoKuroishi,aneattownof5500people,famousforthemakingofclogsandcombs,whereIhaveobtainedaveryneat,airy,upstairsroom,withagoodviewoverthesurroundingcountryandofthedoingsofmyneighboursintheirbackroomsandgardens。

  InsteadofgettingontoAomoriIamspendingthreedaysandtwonightshere,and,astheweatherhasimprovedandmyroomisremarkablycheerful,theresthasbeenverypleasant。AsIhavesaidbefore,itisdifficulttogetanyinformationaboutanythingevenafewmilesoff,andevenatthePostOfficetheycannotgiveanyintelligenceastothedateofthesailingsofthemailsteamerbetweenAomori,twentymilesoff,andHakodate。

  Thepolicewerenotsatisfiedwithseeingmypassport,butmustalsoseeme,andfourofthempaidmeapolitebutdomiciliaryvisittheeveningofmyarrival。Thateveningthesoundofdrummingwasceaseless,andsoonafterIwasinbedItoannouncedthattherewassomethingreallyworthseeing,soIwentoutinmykimonoandwithoutmyhat,andinthisdisguisealtogetherescapedrecognitionasaforeigner。Kuroishiisunlighted,andIwastumblingandstumblingalonginoverhastewhenastrongarmclearedtheway,andthehouse-masterappearedwithaveryprettylantern,hangingclosetothegroundfromacaneheldinthehand。Thuscamethephrase,“Thywordisalightuntomyfeet。“

  Wesoonreachedapointforseeingthefestivalprocessionadvancetowardsus,anditwassobeautifulandpicturesquethatitkeptmeoutforanhour。Itpassesthroughallthestreetsbetween7and10p。m。eachnightduringthefirstweekinAugust,withanark,orcoffer,containingslipsofpaper,onwhichasIunderstand

  wishesarewritten,andeachmorningatseventhisiscarriedtotheriverandtheslipsarecastuponthestream。Theprocessionconsistedofthreemonsterdrumsnearlytheheightofaman’sbody,coveredwithhorsehide,andstrappedtothedrummers,endupwards,andthirtysmalldrums,allbeatenrub-a-dub-dubwithoutceasing。

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