Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第15章

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第15章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  Beetles,spiders,andwood-liceheldacarnivalinmyroomafterdark,andthepresenceofhorsesinthesamehousebroughtanumberofhorseflies。Isprinkledmystretcherwithinsectpowder,butmyblankethadbeenonthefloorforoneminute,andfleasrenderedsleepimpossible。Thenightwasverylong。Theandonwentout,leavingastrongsmellofrancidoil。TheprimitiveJapanesedog——

  acream-colouredwolfish-lookinganimal,thesizeofacollie,verynoisyandaggressive,butascowardlyasbulliesusuallyare——wasingreatforceinFujihara,andthebarking,growling,andquarrellingoftheseuselesscurscontinuedatintervalsuntildaylight;andwhentheywerenotquarrelling,theywerehowling。

  Torrentsofrainfell,obligingmetomovemybedfromplacetoplacetogetoutofthedrip。AtfiveItocameandentreatedmetoleave,whimpering,“I’vehadnosleep;therearethousandsandthousandsoffleas!“HehastravelledbyanotherroutetotheTsugaruStraitthroughtheinterior,andsaysthathewouldnothavebelievedthattherewassuchaplaceinJapan,andthatpeopleinYokohamawillnotbelieveitwhenhetellsthemofitandofthecostumeofthewomen。Heis“ashamedforaforeignertoseesuchaplace,“hesays。Hisclevernessintravellingandhissingularintelligencesurprisemedaily。HeisveryanxioustospeakGOOD

  English,asdistinguishedfrom“common“English,andtogetnewwords,withtheircorrectpronunciationandspelling。Eachdayheputsdowninhisnote-bookallthewordsthatIusethathedoesnotquiteunderstand,andintheeveningbringsthemtomeandputsdowntheirmeaningandspellingwiththeirJapaneseequivalents。

  HespeaksEnglishalreadyfarbetterthanmanyprofessionalinterpreters,butwouldbemorepleasingifhehadnotpickedupsomeAmericanvulgarismsandfree-and-easyways。Itissoimportanttometohaveagoodinterpreter,orIshouldnothaveengagedsoyoungandinexperiencedaservant;butheissocleverthatheisnowabletobecook,laundryman,andgeneralattendant,aswellascourierandinterpreter,andIthinkitisfareasierformethanifhewereanolderman。Iamtryingtomanagehim,becauseIsawthathemeanttomanageme,speciallyinthematterof“squeezes。“HeisintenselyJapanese,hispatriotismhasalltheweaknessandstrengthofpersonalvanity,andhethinkseverythinginferiorthatisforeign。Ourmanners,eyes,andmodesofeatingappearsimplyodioustohim。HedelightsinretailingstoriesofthebadmannersofEnglishmen,describesthemas“roaringoutohiotoeveryoneontheroad,“frighteningthetea-

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