Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第9章

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第9章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  Thereisadeepsolemnityaboutthisgloriousavenuewithitsbroadshadeanddancinglights,andtherareglimpsesofhighmountains。

  Instinctalonewouldtellonethatitleadstosomethingwhichmustbegrandandbeautifullikeitself。Itisbrokenoccasionallybysmallvillageswithbigbellssuspendedbetweendoublepoles;bywaysideshrineswithofferingsofragsandflowers;bystoneeffigiesofBuddhaandhisdisciples,mostlydefacedoroverthrown,allwearingthesameexpressionofbeatifiedrestandindifferencetomundaneaffairs;andbytemplesoflacqueredwoodfallingtodecay,whosebellssenttheirsurpassinglysweettonesfarontheeveningair。

  Imaichi,wherethetwostatelyaislesunite,isalonguphillstreet,withaclearmountainstreamenclosedinastonechannel,andcrossedbyhewnstoneslabsrunningdownthemiddle。Inaroombuiltoverthestream,andcommandingaviewupanddownthestreet,twopolicemensatwriting。Itlooksadullplacewithoutmuchtraffic,asifoppressedbythestatelinessoftheavenuesbelowitandtheshrinesaboveit,butithasaquietyadoya,whereIhadagoodnight’srest,althoughmycanvasbedwasnearlyontheground。Weleftearlythismorningindrizzlingrain,andwentstraightuphillunderthecryptomeriaforeightmiles。Thevegetationisasprofuseasonewouldexpectinsodampandhotasummerclimate,andfromtheprodigiousrainfallofthemountains;

  everystoneiscoveredwithmoss,andtheroad-sidesaregreenwiththeProtococcusviridisandseveralspeciesofMarchantia。WewereamongthefoothillsoftheNantaizanmountainsataheightof1000

  feet,abruptintheirforms,woodedtotheirsummits,andnoisywiththedashandtumbleofathousandstreams。ThelongstreetofHachiishi,withitssteep-roofed,deep-eavedhouses,itswarmcolouring,anditssteeproadwaywithstepsatintervals,hasasortofSwisspicturesquenessasyouenterit,asyoumust,onfoot,whileyourkurumasarehauledandliftedupthesteps;noristheresemblancegivenbysteeproofs,pines,andmountainspatchedwithconiferae,altogetherlostasyouascendthesteepstreet,andseewoodcarvingsandquaintbasketsofwoodandgrassofferedeverywhereforsale。Itisatrulydull,quaintstreet,andthepeoplecomeouttostareataforeignerasifforeignershadnotbecomecommoneventssince1870,whenSirH。andLadyParkes,thefirstEuropeanswhowerepermittedtovisitNikko,tookuptheirabodeintheImperialHombo。Itisadoll’sstreetwithsmalllowhouses,sofinelymatted,soexquisitelyclean,sofinicallyneat,solightanddelicate,thatevenwhenIenteredthemwithoutmybootsIfeltlikea“bullinachinashop,“asifmymereweightmustsmashthroughanddestroy。ThestreetissopainfullycleanthatIshouldnomorethinkofwalkingoveritinmuddybootsthanoveradrawing-roomcarpet。Ithasasilentmountainlook,andmostofitsshopssellspecialties,lacquerwork,boxesofsweetmeatsmadeofblackbeansandsugar,allsortsofboxes,trays,cups,andstands,madeofplain,polishedwood,andmoregrotesquearticlesmadefromtherootsoftrees。

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