Thereisadeepsolemnityaboutthisgloriousavenuewithitsbroadshadeanddancinglights,andtherareglimpsesofhighmountains。
Instinctalonewouldtellonethatitleadstosomethingwhichmustbegrandandbeautifullikeitself。Itisbrokenoccasionallybysmallvillageswithbigbellssuspendedbetweendoublepoles;bywaysideshrineswithofferingsofragsandflowers;bystoneeffigiesofBuddhaandhisdisciples,mostlydefacedoroverthrown,allwearingthesameexpressionofbeatifiedrestandindifferencetomundaneaffairs;andbytemplesoflacqueredwoodfallingtodecay,whosebellssenttheirsurpassinglysweettonesfarontheeveningair。
Imaichi,wherethetwostatelyaislesunite,isalonguphillstreet,withaclearmountainstreamenclosedinastonechannel,andcrossedbyhewnstoneslabsrunningdownthemiddle。Inaroombuiltoverthestream,andcommandingaviewupanddownthestreet,twopolicemensatwriting。Itlooksadullplacewithoutmuchtraffic,asifoppressedbythestatelinessoftheavenuesbelowitandtheshrinesaboveit,butithasaquietyadoya,whereIhadagoodnight’srest,althoughmycanvasbedwasnearlyontheground。Weleftearlythismorningindrizzlingrain,andwentstraightuphillunderthecryptomeriaforeightmiles。Thevegetationisasprofuseasonewouldexpectinsodampandhotasummerclimate,andfromtheprodigiousrainfallofthemountains;
everystoneiscoveredwithmoss,andtheroad-sidesaregreenwiththeProtococcusviridisandseveralspeciesofMarchantia。WewereamongthefoothillsoftheNantaizanmountainsataheightof1000
feet,abruptintheirforms,woodedtotheirsummits,andnoisywiththedashandtumbleofathousandstreams。ThelongstreetofHachiishi,withitssteep-roofed,deep-eavedhouses,itswarmcolouring,anditssteeproadwaywithstepsatintervals,hasasortofSwisspicturesquenessasyouenterit,asyoumust,onfoot,whileyourkurumasarehauledandliftedupthesteps;noristheresemblancegivenbysteeproofs,pines,andmountainspatchedwithconiferae,altogetherlostasyouascendthesteepstreet,andseewoodcarvingsandquaintbasketsofwoodandgrassofferedeverywhereforsale。Itisatrulydull,quaintstreet,andthepeoplecomeouttostareataforeignerasifforeignershadnotbecomecommoneventssince1870,whenSirH。andLadyParkes,thefirstEuropeanswhowerepermittedtovisitNikko,tookuptheirabodeintheImperialHombo。Itisadoll’sstreetwithsmalllowhouses,sofinelymatted,soexquisitelyclean,sofinicallyneat,solightanddelicate,thatevenwhenIenteredthemwithoutmybootsIfeltlikea“bullinachinashop,“asifmymereweightmustsmashthroughanddestroy。ThestreetissopainfullycleanthatIshouldnomorethinkofwalkingoveritinmuddybootsthanoveradrawing-roomcarpet。Ithasasilentmountainlook,andmostofitsshopssellspecialties,lacquerwork,boxesofsweetmeatsmadeofblackbeansandsugar,allsortsofboxes,trays,cups,andstands,madeofplain,polishedwood,andmoregrotesquearticlesmadefromtherootsoftrees。