Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第2章

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第2章

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan Isabella Lucy Bird

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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan
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  Thekuruma,orjin-ri-ki-sha,{2}consistsofalightperambulatorbody,anadjustablehoodofoiledpaper,avelvetorclothliningandcushion,awellforparcelsundertheseat,twohighslimwheels,andapairofshaftsconnectedbyabarattheends。Thebodyisusuallylacqueredanddecoratedaccordingtoitsowner’staste。Someshowlittleexceptpolishedbrass,othersarealtogetherinlaidwithshellsknownasVenus’sear,andothersaregaudilypaintedwithcontorteddragons,orgroupsofpeonies,hydrangeas,chrysanthemums,andmythicalpersonages。Theycostfrom2poundsupwards。Theshaftsrestonthegroundatasteepinclineasyougetin——itmustrequiremuchpracticetoenableonetomountwitheaseordignity——therunnerliftsthemup,getsintothem,givesthebodyagoodtiltbackwards,andgoesoffatasmarttrot。Theyaredrawnbyone,two,orthreemen,accordingtothespeeddesiredbytheoccupants。Whenraincomeson,themanputsupthehood,andtiesyouanditcloselyupinacoveringofoiledpaper,inwhichyouareinvisible。Atnight,whetherrunningorstandingstill,theycarryprettily-paintedcircularpaperlanterns18incheslong。Itismostcomicaltoseestout,florid,solid-

  lookingmerchants,missionaries,maleandfemale,fashionably-

  dressedladies,armedwithcardcases,Chinesecompradores,andJapanesepeasantmenandwomenflyingalongMainStreet,whichislikethedecentrespectableHighStreetofadozenforgottencountrytownsinEngland,inhappyunconsciousnessoftheludicrousnessoftheirappearance;racing,chasing,crossingeachother,theirlean,polite,pleasantrunnersintheirgreathatsshapedlikeinvertedbowls,theirincomprehensiblebluetights,andtheirshortblueover-shirtswithbadgesorcharactersinwhiteuponthem,tearingalong,theiryellowfacesstreamingwithperspiration,laughing,shouting,andavoidingcollisionsbyamereshave。

  AfteravisittotheConsulateIenteredakurumaand,withtwoladiesintwomore,wasbowledalongatafuriouspacebyalaughinglittlemannikindownMainStreet——anarrow,solid,well-

  pavedstreetwithwell-madesidewalks,kerb-stones,andgutters,withironlamp-posts,gas-lamps,andforeignshopsallalongitslength——tothisquiethotelrecommendedbySirWyvilleThomson,whichoffersarefugefromthenasaltwangofmyfellow-voyagers,whohaveallgonetothecaravanseraisontheBund。ThehostisaFrenchman,buthereliesonaChinaman;theservantsareJapanese“boys“inJapaneseclothes;andthereisaJapanese“groomofthechambers“infaultlessEnglishcostume,whoperfectlyappalsmebytheelaboratepolitenessofhismanner。

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