Thekuruma,orjin-ri-ki-sha,{2}consistsofalightperambulatorbody,anadjustablehoodofoiledpaper,avelvetorclothliningandcushion,awellforparcelsundertheseat,twohighslimwheels,andapairofshaftsconnectedbyabarattheends。Thebodyisusuallylacqueredanddecoratedaccordingtoitsowner’staste。Someshowlittleexceptpolishedbrass,othersarealtogetherinlaidwithshellsknownasVenus’sear,andothersaregaudilypaintedwithcontorteddragons,orgroupsofpeonies,hydrangeas,chrysanthemums,andmythicalpersonages。Theycostfrom2poundsupwards。Theshaftsrestonthegroundatasteepinclineasyougetin——itmustrequiremuchpracticetoenableonetomountwitheaseordignity——therunnerliftsthemup,getsintothem,givesthebodyagoodtiltbackwards,andgoesoffatasmarttrot。Theyaredrawnbyone,two,orthreemen,accordingtothespeeddesiredbytheoccupants。Whenraincomeson,themanputsupthehood,andtiesyouanditcloselyupinacoveringofoiledpaper,inwhichyouareinvisible。Atnight,whetherrunningorstandingstill,theycarryprettily-paintedcircularpaperlanterns18incheslong。Itismostcomicaltoseestout,florid,solid-
lookingmerchants,missionaries,maleandfemale,fashionably-
dressedladies,armedwithcardcases,Chinesecompradores,andJapanesepeasantmenandwomenflyingalongMainStreet,whichislikethedecentrespectableHighStreetofadozenforgottencountrytownsinEngland,inhappyunconsciousnessoftheludicrousnessoftheirappearance;racing,chasing,crossingeachother,theirlean,polite,pleasantrunnersintheirgreathatsshapedlikeinvertedbowls,theirincomprehensiblebluetights,andtheirshortblueover-shirtswithbadgesorcharactersinwhiteuponthem,tearingalong,theiryellowfacesstreamingwithperspiration,laughing,shouting,andavoidingcollisionsbyamereshave。
AfteravisittotheConsulateIenteredakurumaand,withtwoladiesintwomore,wasbowledalongatafuriouspacebyalaughinglittlemannikindownMainStreet——anarrow,solid,well-
pavedstreetwithwell-madesidewalks,kerb-stones,andgutters,withironlamp-posts,gas-lamps,andforeignshopsallalongitslength——tothisquiethotelrecommendedbySirWyvilleThomson,whichoffersarefugefromthenasaltwangofmyfellow-voyagers,whohaveallgonetothecaravanseraisontheBund。ThehostisaFrenchman,buthereliesonaChinaman;theservantsareJapanese“boys“inJapaneseclothes;andthereisaJapanese“groomofthechambers“infaultlessEnglishcostume,whoperfectlyappalsmebytheelaboratepolitenessofhismanner。