Theleisurerenderedbythewifeinsuchcasesis,ofcourse,notasimplemanifestationofidlenessorindolence。Italmostinvariablyoccursdisguisedundersomeformofworkorhouseholddutiesorsocialamenities,whichproveonanalysistoservelittleornoulteriorendbeyondshowingthatshedoesnotoccupyherselfwithanythingthatisgainfulorthatisofsubstantialuse。Ashasalreadybeennoticedundertheheadofmanners,thegreaterpartofthecustomaryroundofdomesticcarestowhichthemiddle-classhousewifegiveshertimeandeffortisofthischaracter。Notthattheresultsofherattentiontohouseholdmatters,ofadecorativeandmundificatorycharacter,arenotpleasingtothesenseofmentrainedinmiddle-classproprieties;butthetastetowhichtheseeffectsofhouseholdadornmentandtidinessappealisatastewhichhasbeenformedundertheselectiveguidanceofacanonofproprietythatdemandsjusttheseevidencesofwastedeffort。Theeffectsarepleasingtouschieflybecausewehavebeentaughttofindthempleasing。Theregoesintothesedomesticdutiesmuchsolicitudeforapropercombinationofformandcolor,andforotherendsthataretobeclassedasaestheticinthepropersenseoftheterm;anditisnotdeniedthateffectshavingsomesubstantialaestheticvaluearesometimesattained。Prettymuchallthatishereinsistedonisthat,asregardstheseamenitiesoflife,thehousewife’seffortsareundertheguidanceoftraditionsthathavebeenshapedbythelawofconspicuouslywastefulexpenditureoftimeandsubstance。Ifbeautyorcomfortisachieved-anditisamoreorlessfortuitouscircumstanceiftheyare-theymustbeachievedbymeansandmethodsthatcommendthemselvestothegreateconomiclawofwastedeffort。Themorereputable,“presentable“portionofmiddle-classhouseholdparaphernaliaare,ontheonehand,itemsofconspicuousconsumption,andontheotherhand,apparatusforputtinginevidencethevicariousleisurerenderedbythehousewife。
Therequirementofvicariousconsumptionatthehandsofthewifecontinuesinforceevenatalowerpointinthepecuniaryscalethantherequirementofvicariousleisure。Atapointbelowwhichlittleifanypretenseofwastedeffort,inceremonialcleannessandthelike,isobservable,andwherethereisassuredlynoconsciousattemptatostensibleleisure,decencystillrequiresthewifetoconsumesomegoodsconspicuouslyforthereputabilityofthehouseholdanditshead。Sothat,asthelatter-dayoutcomeofthisevolutionofanarchaicinstitution,thewife,whowasattheoutsetthedrudgeandchatteloftheman,bothinfactandintheory——theproducerofgoodsforhimtoconsume——hasbecometheceremonialconsumerofgoodswhichheproduces。Butshestillquiteunmistakablyremainshischattelintheory;forthehabitualrenderingofvicariousleisureandconsumptionistheabidingmarkoftheunfreeservant。
Thisvicariousconsumptionpracticedbythehouseholdofthemiddleandlowerclassescannotbecountedasadirectexpressionoftheleisure-classschemeoflife,sincethehouseholdofthispecuniarygradedoesnotbelongwithintheleisureclass。Itisratherthattheleisure-classschemeoflifeherecomestoanexpressionatthesecondremove。Theleisureclassstandsattheheadofthesocialstructureinpointofreputability;anditsmanneroflifeanditsstandardsofworththereforeaffordthenormofreputabilityforthecommunity。Theobservanceofthesestandards,insomedegreeofapproximation,becomesincumbentuponallclasseslowerinthescale。Inmoderncivilizedcommunitiesthelinesofdemarcationbetweensocialclasseshavegrownvagueandtransient,andwhereverthishappensthenormofreputabilityimposedbytheupperclassextendsitscoerciveinfluencewithbutslighthindrancedownthroughthesocialstructuretotheloweststrata。Theresultisthatthemembersofeachstratumacceptastheiridealofdecencytheschemeoflifeinvogueinthenexthigherstratum,andbendtheirenergiestoliveuptothatideal。Onpainofforfeitingtheirgoodnameandtheirself-respectincaseoffailure,theymustconformtotheacceptedcode,atleastinappearance。
Thebasisonwhichgoodreputeinanyhighlyorganizedindustrialcommunityultimatelyrestsispecuniarystrength;andthemeansofshowingpecuniarystrength,andsoofgainingorretainingagoodname,areleisureandaconspicuousconsumptionofgoods。Accordingly,bothofthesemethodsareinvogueasfardownthescaleasitremainspossible;andinthelowerstratainwhichthetwomethodsareemployed,bothofficesareingreatpartdelegatedtothewifeandchildrenofthehousehold。Lowerstill,whereanydegreeofleisure,evenostensible,hasbecomeimpracticableforthewife,theconspicuousconsumptionofgoodsremainsandiscarriedonbythewifeandchildren。Themanofthehouseholdalsocandosomethinginthisdirection,andindeed,hecommonlydoes;butwithastilllowerdescentintothelevelsofindigence——alongthemarginoftheslums——theman,andpresentlyalsothechildren,virtuallyceasetoconsumevaluablegoodsforappearances,andthewomanremainsvirtuallythesoleexponentofthehousehold’specuniarydecency。Noclassofsociety,noteventhemostabjectlypoor,forgoesallcustomaryconspicuousconsumption。ThelastitemsofthiscategoryofconsumptionarenotgivenupexceptunderstresSofthedirestnecessity。Verymuchofsqualoranddiscomfortwillbeenduredbeforethelasttrinketorthelastpretenseofpecuniarydecencyisputaway。Thereisnoclassandnocountrythathasyieldedsoabjectlybeforethepressureofphysicalwantastodenythemselvesallgratificationofthishigherorspiritualneed。
Fromtheforegoingsurveyofthegrowthofconspicuousleisureandconsumption,itappearsthattheutilityofbothalikeforthepurposesofreputabilityliesintheelementofwastethatiscommontoboth。Intheonecaseitisawasteoftimeandeffort,intheotheritisawasteofgoods。Botharemethodsofdemonstratingthepossessionofwealth,andthetwoareconventionallyacceptedasequivalents。Thechoicebetweenthemisaquestionofadvertisingexpediencysimply,exceptsofarasitmaybeaffectedbyotherstandardsofpropriety,springingfromadifferentsource。Ongroundsofexpediencythepreferencemaybegiventotheoneortheotheratdifferentstagesoftheeconomicdevelopment。Thequestionis,whichofthetwomethodswillmosteffectivelyreachthepersonswhoseconvictionsitisdesiredtoaffect。Usagehasansweredthisquestionindifferentwaysunderdifferentcircumstances。