Their Silver Wedding Journey

第64章

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第64章

Their Silver Wedding Journey William Dean Howells

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Their Silver Wedding Journey
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  “Yes,isn’tshe!”Mrs。Marchassented,andwithapassionatedesireforexcessinabadthing,whichweallknowattimes,shelookedeagerlyaboutherforproofsofthatodiousmilitarismoftheempire,whichoughttohavebeenconspicuousintheimperialcapital;butpossiblybecausethetroopswerenearlyallawayatthemanoeuvres,therewerehardlymoreinthestreetsthanshehadsometimesseeninWashington。AgaintheGermanofficerssignallyfailedtoofferheranyrudenesswhenshemetthemontheside-walks。Therewerescarcelyanyofthem,andperhapsthatmighthavebeenthereasonwhytheywerenotmoreaggressive;butawholecompanyofsoldiersmarchingcarelesslyuptothepalacefromtheBrandenburggate,withoutmusic,orsomuchstyleasourownmilitiaoftenputson,regardedherwithinoffensiveeyessofarastheylookedather。ShedeclaredthatpersonallytherewasnothingagainstthePrussians;evenwheninuniformtheywerekindlyandmodest-lookingmen;

  itwaswhentheygotuponpedestals,inbronzeormarble,thatthey,begantobullyandtobrag。

  ThedinnerwhichtheMarchesgotatarestaurantonUnterdenLindenalmostredeemedtheavenuefromthedisgraceithadfallenintowiththem。Itwas,thebestmealtheyhadyeteateninEurope,andastofactandformwasasortofcompromisebetweenaFrenchdinnerandanEnglishdinnerwhichtheydidnothesitatetopronouncePrussian。Thewaiterwhoserveditwasafriendlyspirit,verysensibleoftheirintelligentappreciationofthedinner;andfromhimtheyformedamorerespectfulopinionofBerlincivilizationthantheyhadyetheld。Afterthemannerofstrangerseverywheretheyjudgedthecountrytheywerevisitingfromsuchofitsinhabitantsaschancebroughtthemincontactwith;anditwouldreallybeagoodthingfornationsthatwishtostandwellwiththeworldatlargetolookcarefullytothebehaviorofitscabmenandcarconductors,itshotelclerksandwaiters,itstheatre-ticketsellersandushers,itspolicemenandsacristans,itslandlordsandsalesmen;forbytheseratherthanbyitssocietywomenanditsstatesmenanddivines,isitreallyjudgedinthebooksoftravellers;someattentionalsoshouldbepaidtotheweather,iftheclimateistobepraised。Intherailroadcaf?atPotsdamtherewasawaitersorudetotheMarchesthatiftheyhadnotbeenpeopleofgreatstrengthofcharacterhewouldhaveundonethefavorableimpressionthesoldiersandciviliansofBerlingenerallyhadbeenatsuchpainstoproduceinthem;andthroughouttheweekofearlySeptemberwhichtheypassedthere,itrainedsomuchandsobitterly,itwassowetandsocold,thattheymighthavecomeawaythinkingit’stheworstclimateintheworld,ifithadnotbeenforamanwhomtheysawinoneofthepublicgardenspouringaheavystreamfromhisgardenhoseupontheshrubberyalreadysoakedandshudderinginthecold。Butthisconvincedthemthattheyweresufferingfromweatherandnotfromtheclimate,whichmustreallybehotanddry;andtheywenthometotheirhotelandsatcontentedlydowninatemperatureofsixtydegrees。Theweather,wasnotalwayssobad;onedayitwasdrycoldinsteadofwetcold,withrough,rustycloudsbreakingabluesky;

  anotherday,uptoelevenintheforenoon,itwaslikeIndiansummer;

  thenitchangedtoaharshNovemberair;andthenitrelentedandendedsomildly,thattheyhiredchairsintheplacebeforetheimperialpalaceforfivepfennigseach,andsatwatchingthelifebeforethem。Motherlywomen-folkwerethereknitting;twoAmericangirlsinchairsnearthemchattedtogether;somefineequipages,theonlyonestheysawinBerlin,wentby;adogandamanthewifewhooughttohavebeeninharnesswasprobablysick,andthepoorfellowwasforcedtotakeherplacepasseddraggingacart;someschoolboyswhohadhungtheirsatchelsuponthelowrailingwereplayingaboutthebaseofthestatueofKingWilliamIII。

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