Their Silver Wedding Journey

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第59章

Their Silver Wedding Journey William Dean Howells

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Their Silver Wedding Journey
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  ItwasfallingnightwhentheyreachedWeimar,wheretheyfoundatthestationaprovisionofomnibusesfarbeyondthehotelaccommodations。

  TheydrovefirsttotheCrown-Prince,whichwasinapromisingstateofreparation,butwhichforthepresentcouldonlywelcomethemtoanapartmentwhereacanvascurtaincutthemofffromafreshlyplasteredwall。Thelandlorddeploredthefact,andsenthospitablyouttotryandplacethemattheElephant。ButtheElephantwasfull,andtheRussianCourtwasfulltoo。ThenthelandlordoftheCrown-Princebethoughthimselfofanewhotel,ofthesecondclass,indeed,butverynice,wheretheymightgetrooms,andafterthedelayofanhour,theygotacarriageanddroveawayfromtheCrown-Prince,wherethelandlordcontinuedtothelastasbenevolentasiftheyhadbeenaprofitinsteadofalosstohim。

  Thestreetsofthetownatnineo’clockwereemptyandquiet,andtheyinstantlyfelttheacademicqualityoftheplace。Throughthepalenighttheycouldseethatthearchitecturewasoftheclassicsentimentwhichtheyweredestinedtofeelmoreandmore;atonepointtheycaughtafleetingglimpseoftwofigureswithclaspedhandsandhalfembraced,whichtheyknewforthestatuesofGoetheandSchiller;andwhentheymountedtotheirroomsattheGrand-DukeofSaxe-Weimar,theypassedunderafrescorepresentingGoetheandfourotherworld-famouspoets,Shakspere,Milton,Tasso,andSchiller。ThepoetsalllookedlikeGermans,aswasjust,andGoethewasnaturallychiefamongthem;hemarshalledtheimmortalsontheirway,andSchillerbroughtuptherearandkeptthemfromgoingastrayinanElysiumwheretheydidnotspeakthelanguage。Fortherest,thehotelwasbrand-new,ofaquiteAmericanfreshness,andwaspervadedbyasweetsmellasofstrawmatting,andprovidedwithsteam-radiators。InthesenseofitshomelikenesstheMarchesboastedthattheywerenevergoingawayfromit。

  Inthemorningtheydiscoveredthattheirwindowslookedoutonthegrand-ducalmuseum,withagardenedspacebeforeandbelowitsclassicisticbulk,where,inawhimoftheweather,thegayflowerswerefullofsun。Inapleasantillusionoftakingitunawares,Marchstrolledupthroughthetown;butWeimarwasasmuchawakeatthathourasatanyofthetwenty-four,andthetranquillityofitsstreets,whereheencounteredafewpassersseveralblocksapart,wastheirhabitualmood。Hecamepromptlyupontwoobjectswhichhewouldwillinglyhaveshunned:a’denkmal’oftheFranco-Germanwar,notsofuriouslybadasmostGermanmonuments,butantipatheticanduninteresting,asallpatrioticmonumentsare;andawoman-and-dogteam。Intheshockfromthishewassensiblethathehadnotseenanywoman-and-dogteamsforsometime,andhewonderedbywhatcivicorethnicinfluencestheirdistributionwassocontrolledthattheyshouldhaveaboundedinHamburg,Leipsic,andCarlsbad,andwhollyceasedinNuremberg,Ansbach,andWurzburg,toreappearagaininWeimar,thoughtheyseemedascharacteristicofallGermanyastheuglydenkmalstohervictoriesoverFrance。

  TheGoetheandSchillermonumentwhichhehadglimpsedthenightbeforewascharacteristictoo,butlessoffensivelyso。Germanstatuesatthebestareconscious;andthepoet-pair,astheinscriptioncallsthem,havetheairofshowilyconfrontingposteritywiththeirclaspedhands,andofbeingonlypartiallyraptfromthespectators。ButtheyweremoreunconsciousthananyotherGermanstatuesthatMarchhadseen,andhequelledadesiretoaskGoethe,ashestoodwithhishandonSchiller’sshoulder,andlookedserenelyintospacefaraboveoneofthetypicalequipagesofhiscountry,whathethoughtofthatsortofthing。ButuponreflectionhedidnotknowwhyGoetheshouldbeheldpersonallyresponsiblefortheexistenceofthewoman-and-dogteam。HefeltthathemightmorereasonablyattributetohistastetheprevalenceofclassicprofileswhichhebegantonoteintheWeimarpopulace。ThiscouldbeasympatheticeffectofthatpassionfortheantiquewhichthepoetbroughtbackwithhimfromhissojourninItaly;thoughmanyofthepeople,especiallythechildren,werebow-legged。Perhapstheantiquehad:begunintheirfaces,andhadnotyetgotdowntotheirlegs;inanycasetheywerecharmingchildren,andasatestoftheirculture,hehadamindtoaskalittlegirlifshecouldtellhimwherethestatueofHerderwas,whichhethoughthemightaswelltakeinonhisramble,andsobedonewithasmanystatuesashecould。Sheansweredwithaprettyregretinhertendervoice,“ThatItrulycannot。”andhewasmoresatisfiedthanifshecould,forhethoughtitbettertobeachildandhonest,thantoknowwhereanyGermanstatuewas。

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