Fromthemountainswehadaverystrikingviewofthiswhiteandbrilliantaerial-field,whichsentarmsupthevalleys,leavingislandsandpromontoriesinthesamemanner,astheseadoesintheChonosarchipelagoandinTierradelFuego。
WestayedtwodaysatFreyrina。InthevalleyofGuascotherearefoursmalltowns。Atthemouththereistheport,aspotentirelydesert,andwithoutanywaterintheimmediateneighbourhood。FiveleagueshigherupstandsFreyrina,alongstragglingvillage,withdecentwhitewashedhouses。
Again,tenleaguesfurtherupBallenarissituated,andabovethisGuascoAlto,ahorticulturalvillage,famousforitsdriedfruit。Onacleardaytheviewupthevalleyisveryfine;thestraightopeningterminatesinthefar-distantsnowyCordillera;oneachsideaninfinityofcrossing-linesareblendedtogetherinabeautifulhaze。Theforegroundissingularfromthenumberofparallelandstep-formedterraces;andtheincludedstripofgreenvalley,withitswillow-bushes,iscontrastedonbothhandswiththenakedhills。Thatthesurroundingcountrywasmostbarrenwillbereadilybelieved,whenitisknownthatashowerofrainhadnotfallenduringthelastthirteenmonths。TheinhabitantsheardwiththegreatestenvyoftherainatCoquimbo;fromtheappearanceoftheskytheyhadhopesofequallygoodfortune,which,afortnightafterwards,wererealized。
IwasatCopiapoatthetime;andtherethepeople,withequalenvy,talkedoftheabundantrainatGuasco。Aftertwoorthreeverydryyears,perhapswithnotmorethanoneshowerduringthewholetime,arainyyeargenerallyfollows;andthisdoesmoreharmthaneventhedrought。Theriversswell,andcoverwithgravelandsandthenarrowstripsofground,whichalonearefitforcultivation。Thefloodsalsoinjuretheirrigatingditches。
Greatdevastationhadthusbeencausedthreeyearsago。