andhadbeensparedbytheQueenofNavarre，thebeautifulMargot，astheyusedtowriteandsay，too，inthosedays;because，insooth，hewastheonlyonewhocouldmakeforherthosewonderfulriding—habitswhichshesolovedtowear，seeingthattheyweremarvelouslywellsuitedtohidecertainanatomicaldefects，whichtheQueenofNavarreusedverystudiouslytoconceal。？Percerinbeingsaved，made，outofgratitude，somebeautifulblackbodices，veryinexpensivelyindeed，forQueenCatherine，whoendedbybeingpleasedatthepreservationofaHuguenotpeople，onwhomshehadlonglookedwithdetestation。？ButPercerinwasaveryprudentman;andhavinghearditsaidthattherewasnomoredangeroussignforaProtestantthantobesmileduponbyCatherine，andhavingobservedthathersmilesweremorefrequentthanusual，hespeedilyturnedCatholicwithallhisfamily;andhavingthusbecomeirreproachable，attainedtheloftypositionofmastertailortotheCrownofFrance。？UnderHenryIII。，gaykingashewas，thispositionwasagrandastheheightofoneoftheloftiestpeaksoftheCordilleras。？NowPercerinhadbeenaclevermanallhislife，andbywayofkeepinguphisreputationbeyondthegrave，tookverygoodcarenottomakeabaddeathofit，andsocontrivedtodieveryskillfully;andthatattheverymomenthefelthispowersofinventiondeclining。？Heleftasonandadaughter，bothworthyofthenametheywerecalledupontobear;theson，acutterasunerringandexactasthesquarerule;thedaughter，aptatembroidery，andatdesigningornaments。？ThemarriageofHenryIV。andMariedeMedici，andtheexquisitecourt—mourningfortheafore—mentionedqueen，togetherwithafewwordsletfallbyM。deBassompi鑢e，kingofthebeauxoftheperiod，madethefortuneofthesecondgenerationofPercerins。？M。ConcinoConcini，andhiswifeGalliga？
whosubsequentlyshoneattheFrenchcourt，soughttoItalianizethefashion，andintroducedsomeFlorentinetailors;butPercerin，touchedtothequickinhispatriotismandhisself—esteem，entirelydefeatedtheseforeigners，andthatsowellthatConcinowasthefirsttogiveuphiscompatriots，andheldtheFrenchtailorinsuchesteemthathewouldneveremployanyother，andthusworeadoubletofhisontheverydaythatVitryblewouthisbrainswithapistolatthePontduLouvre。
AndsoitwasadoubletissuingfromM。Percerin\'sworkshop，whichtheParisiansrejoicedinhackingintosomanypieceswiththelivinghumanbodyitcontained。？NotwithstandingthefavorConcinoConcinihadshownPercerin，theking，LouisXIII。，hadthegenerositytobearnomalicetohistailor，andtoretainhiminhisservice。？AtthetimethatLouistheJustaffordedthisgreatexampleofequity，Percerinhadbroughtuptwosons，oneofwhommadehisd閎utatthemarriageofAnneofAustria，inventedthatadmirableSpanishcostume，inwhichRichelieudancedasaraband，madethecostumesforthetragedyof\"Mirame，\"andstitchedontoBuckingham\'smantlethosefamouspearlswhichweredestinedtobescatteredaboutthepavementsoftheLouvre。？AmanbecomeseasilynotablewhohasmadethedressesofaDukeofBuckingham，aM。deCinq—Mars，aMademoiselleNinon，aM。deBeaufort，andaMariondeLorme。？AndthusPercerinthethirdhadattainedthesummitofhisglorywhenhisfatherdied。？ThissamePercerinIII。，old，famousandwealthy，yetfurtherdressedLouisXIV。;andhavingnoson，whichwasagreatcauseofsorrowtohim，seeingthatwithhimselfhisdynastywouldend，hehadbroughtupseveralhopefulpupils。？Hepossessedacarriage，acountryhouse，men—servantsthetallestinParis;andbyspecialauthorityfromLouisXIV。，apackofhounds。？HeworkedforMM。deLyonneandLetellier，underasortofpatronage;butpoliticmanashewas，andversedinstatesecrets，heneversucceededinfittingM。Colbert。？Thisisbeyondexplanation;itisamatterforguessingorforintuition。？Greatgeniusesofeverykindliveonunseen，intangibleideas;theyactwithoutthemselvesknowingwhy。？ThegreatPercerin（for，contrarytotheruleofdynasties，itwas，aboveall，thelastofthePercerinswhodeservedthenameofGreat），thegreatPercerinwasinspiredwhenhecutarobeforthequeen，oracoatfortheking;hecouldmountamantleforMonsieur，theclockofastockingforMadame;but，inspiteofhissupremetalent，hecouldneverhitoffanythingapproachingacreditablefitforM。Colbert。？\"Thatman，\"heusedoftentosay，\"isbeyondmyart;myneedlecanneverdothimdown。\"？WeneedscarcelysaythatPercerinwasM。
Fouquet\'stailor，andthatthesuperintendenthighlyesteemedhim。？M。Percerinwasnearlyeightyyearsold，neverthelessstillfresh，andatthesametimesodry，thecourtiersusedtosay，thathewaspositivelybrittle。？HisrenownandhisfortuneweregreatenoughforM。lePrince，thatkingoffops，totakehisarmwhentalkingoverthefashions;andforthoseleasteagertopaynevertodaretoleavetheiraccountsinarrearwithhim;forMasterPercerinwouldforthefirsttimemakeclothesuponcredit，butthesecondnever，unlesspaidfortheformerorder。
Itiseasytoseeatoncethatatailorofsuchrenown，insteadofrunningaftercustomers，madedifficultiesaboutobliginganyfreshones。？AndsoPercerindeclinedtofitbourgeois，orthosewhohadbutrecentlyobtainedpatentsofnobility。？AstoryusedtocirculatethatevenM。deMazarin，inexchangeforPercerinsupplyinghimwithafullsuitofceremonialvestmentsascardinal，onefinedayslippedlettersofnobilityintohispocket。